I am so pleased with how my crochet heart garland turned out. It wasn’t the easiest pattern to design, and I tried several different heart shapes before settling on this one.

And once I’d found a shape I was happy with, it was really easy to repeat several times to complete the garland.

You could create one as a fun Valentine’s display, but I’m going to keep mine up all year round!

The Stitches

These crochet hearts use a few different stitches, but they are all beginner stitches and organised in an easy to follow way, so hopefully this will be a fun project even for newer crocheters.

• Magic circle
• ch – chain
• dc – double crochet
• 2dc – make two double crochets into the same stitch
• hdc – half double crochet
• tr – treble crochet
• slst – slip stitch

The stitches given here are in US terms.

Depending on your crochet style, you might find it easiest to make the hearts one section at a time. So every round one, then every round two, then every round three. Because the stitches are worked in a fixed pattern, I find this can be a faster way to create them.

What You’ll Need

I used the Go Handmade Cosy yarn from Hobbii to create this crochet heart garland. If you use another yarn, try to find one that is 60% cotton to 40% acrylic to get a similar finish.

• 3.5mm crochet hook
• 5mm crochet hook
• 50g red DK cotton blend yarn
• 50g dark pink DK cotton blend yarn
• 50g light pink DK cotton blend yarn
• 50g cream DK cotton blend yarn
• Steel yarn needle

The Free Crochet Heart Garland Pattern

Using the following pattern you will need to make hearts in the following combinations:

• 8 x light pink hearts
• 8 x dark pink hearts
• 7 x cream hearts
• 7 x red hearts

Work with your 3.5mm crochet hook

Round 1

Begin with either a magic circle or chain 4 slip stitched as a loop.

ch3, then make 16dc into the circle.

If you used a magic circle, close it now.

Round 2

slst, dc, 3tr, 2dc, hdc x 4, (dc, tr, dc), hdc x 4, 2dc, 3tr, dc, slst

Round 3

slst, dc, 2dc, 3tr, 2dc x 2, hdc x 5, dc, (dc, tr, dc), dc, hdc x 5, 2dc x 2, 3tr, 2dc, dc, slst

Tie off and weave in the loose ends.

Blocking

This is one of those projects where you really shouldn’t skip the blocking stage. Your hearts are going to be dangling down, and it’s an unforgiving position for a cute little piece of crochet to be in. Every bend and twist is so much more obvious when you add a bit of movement or a wall as a backdrop.

I blocked this set of hearts by simply ironing them, and if you use the same type of yarn you’ll have no problem doing the same. If your yarn is a bit more heat sensitive then a blocking board is the way to go, or just sit them under a big heavy book for a couple of days!

The Chain

To make your chain you are going to hold the light and dark pink yarns together, and work with your 5mm crochet hook.

Chain 400

Mark every 13 stitches along with stitch markers. This will make it quicker to attach your hearts, and with such a long chain help to ensure you’ve counted right and that they will therefore be evenly spaced.

Attaching the Hearts

To attach each heart to the main thick chain, you are going to make a small chain of five stitches from a stitch down from the top center of each heart, to the chain. Make sure that you attach them in the same manner each time to prevent the chain from twisting.

The post Crochet Heart Garland appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

If you love both reading and crochet, you aren’t alone. These hobbies often go hand and hand, so why not make them bond even closer by crocheting your own bookmark!

I’m a serial page folder. I know I’m not meant to do it, but there is no way I can remember the page number by myself, and the last time I owned a bookmark was sometime in the 90’s…

So I’ve decided to try to save my books from permanently bent pages, by crocheting myself a bunch of bookmarks instead.

This design has a few different forms. You can adjust both the length of the stem, and the number of petals, to suit your own style and the size of books that you tend to read.

If you use DK yarn your 41 chain start will leave you with a bookmark about 8 inches long, and the 51 chain start will be closer to 10 inches.

The Stitches

Your Kit List

We are going to make the bookmark in three sections, and then join them together when they are all complete.

Stem

You will need to use your green yarn for the stem section of your bookmark.

Round 1

Chain 41 or 51 depending on the length of stem you want for your books.

Round 2

Sk1, 1sc x 39. Make 5sc into the end stitch, working around the edge of the stem. Now make 1sc x 39 down the other side. Finally make 1sc x 4 into the end stitch, and slip stitch to join into the next stitch.

Leaves

Work the leaves in your green yarn.

Round 1

Ch21

Round 2

Sk1, slst x 3, sc, hdc x 2, dc x 2, hdc, slst x 2, hdc, dc x 2, hdc x 2, sc, slst x 3. Turn and work the same pattern of stitches down the other side.

Flower Option 1 – Full Petals

Round 4

Now work around every petal, making a single crochet into each side, three single crochets into the top of each petal, then a single crochet down the other side. Between each petal make a slip stitch into the bottom stitch.

When you have made the final stitch of the last petal, take a yarn needle and thread a tail of yarn. Take that tail and sew the base of each petal closed as shown in the image. This will give your flower a much neater finish.

Flower Option 2 – Eight Petals

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches with your orange yarn.

Round 2

2sc x 8, then slst to close. Color change to your petal color.

Round 3

Working into one of the edge stitches of the middle of the flower

*chain 7, sk1, sc, 1hdc x 3, sc x 2, slst into base of next two stitches.

Repeat from * until the last stitch of round 2, then slst into the base of the first chain 7 of the round.

Round 4

Now work around every petal, making a single crochet into each side, three single crochets into the top of each petal, then a single crochet down the other side. Between each petal make a slip stitch into the bottom stitch.

When you have made the final stitch of the last petal, take a yarn needle and thread a tail of yarn. Take that tail and sew the base of each petal closed as shown in the image. This will give your flower a much neater finish.

Joining Your Bookmark

To complete your bookmark, grab your yarn needle and a piece of green yarn. I began by attaching the leaves to the base of the stem, sewing in and out around the central section of the leaves through to the bottom of the stem.

When that is attached, take your orange yarn and sew the other end of the stem to the orange center of the flower, making sure that you attach to the back side of your flower’s stitches.

The post Flower Crochet Bookmark appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

I have really fallen in love with sedge stitch recently. The depth of the texture these simple stitches make is so rewarding in terms of how it looks and feels.

I don’t know about you, but I love a keychain that I can fiddle with and enjoy the feeling of!

We’ve all got our keys in our hands a lot of the time, and you might as well make sure you love the look of them! And what better way to show off your crochet skills than a gorgeous handmade keychain too.

What to use

I used a 4mm crochet hook and DK weight cotton blend yarns to make the keychains that you can see pictured. These varied from a high cotton percentage to an around 50/50 cotton merino wool blend.

Depending upon the weight and fiber of yarn you use, your keychain fob will end up being around 3 inches long.

I recommend that you go with a yarn that doesn’t just have a color that you love, but that is a higher percent cotton because, let’s face it, keychains go through a lot. You shove them in your pocket, drop them in the footwell of the car, leave them in a coffee stain… Maybe that’s just me? But they really do need to stand up to a bit of punishment, and the higher cotton content is going to have a more rigid structure and be easier to wipe clean if it picks up a bit of yuck!

You are also going to need some sort of keychain attachment, I have shown a few options in the photo and as long as it will fit around your crocheted fabric then it’ll be fine to use.

The Stitches

ch – chain
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
sk – skip

You’ll have seen that I mentioned sedge stitch in the title, and yet I haven’t included it in the terms above. That’s because a sedge stitch is simply a series of clusters and skips, where each cluster is made up of a single crochet, half double crochet and double crochet. Impressive name, but actually totally simple to create using some very beginner friendly stitches.

Crochet Keychain Pattern

This is a lovely, quick pattern

Row 1

Make a chain of 34 stitches

Row 2

Skip the first stitch, then make 1hdc and 1dc into the next stitch. *sk2, then make 1sc, 1hdc and 1dc into the next stitch. Repeat from * 9 times. Skip 1 then make 1sc into the last stitch.

Row 3 – 4

Ch1, 1hdc and 1dc into the stitch at the base on the chain. *sk2, make 1sc, 1hdc and 1dc into the next single crochet stitch. Repeat from * 9 times. Sk2 then make 1sc into the final stitch.

Add the Keychain

Pull your chosen keychain onto the crocheted strip, inserting it through the loop.

Row 5

Now fold your fabric so that the narrow ends are next to each other, and single crochet those ends together to join it. Use a yarn needle or your hook to weave in your loose ends.

The post Crochet Sedge Stitch Keychain appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Puff stitches are one of the most fun ways to make a bulky, padded stitch when crocheting. They can be used for all kinds of fun projects from individual flowers to being incorporated into bigger designs.

Today I’ll give you some simple steps to make the puff stitch itself, then look at a way you can incorporate it into rows to allow you to make a bigger project like a scarf or blanket.

A Step By Step Puff Stitch

To make a puff stitch you will need to follow these steps:

Step 1

Yarn over, insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over again. You should have three loops on the hook.

Step 2

Repeat step one two more times, so that you end up with seven loops on your hook.

Step 3

Yarn over, and pull through all seven loops on the hook.

Step 4

Make a single chain to close the stitch

Puff Stitch Rows

Your foundation row can be any even number, plus two chains. In the example sample I’ve made up today, I used a chain of 22 (so 20 + 2).

Foundation row

Chain 22

Sc into second chain from the hook, *chain 1, sk, 1sc, repeat from *

Row 1

Ch2 (as first hdc)

*PS into next ch space, ch1, sk next sc

Repeat from * to final chain space

PS into next ch space

1hdc into last stitch, then turn

Row 2

Ch1, 1sc into the hdc,

*ch1, sk, 1sc into chain space,

Repeat from * until the end of the row. Turn.

Row 3 onwards

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you’ve reached the desired length, and make sure you finish on row 2 for the best look.

The post Crocheting Puff Stitches in Rows appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

What do you think of this squishy crochet mouse pattern? Just like a real mouse, it’s cute as heck, but unlike most real mice it’s cuddly too! But my own personal favorite thing is how quickly it comes together in just a few simple shapes.

I’ve made this crochet mouse plush with super bulky chenille yarn, so it’s extra soft and squashy, and big enough for my daughter to enjoy as a toy. But you could make it from lighter weight chenille yarn, and I’ve got notes to help you achieve the best results.

Materials

To make a mouse just like mine, you’ll need:

• Super bulky chenille yarns in light brown and pale pink. I’ve used Cygnet’s Jellybaby yarn in teddy bear, and Hobbii’s Toucan yarn in light pink. You could swap out the light brown yarn for pale gray or even white if you prefer.
• A small quantity of black yarn. I’ve used super bulky chenille again, but you could use almost any black yarn from your stash and double it up if necessary.
• A J-10 (6mm) crochet hook.
• Stitch markers. Or scraps of yarn in a contrasting color.
• ⅝ inch (16mm) safety eyes.
• A darning needle.
• Hi-loft, toy safe stuffing.

To make a smaller mouse, match a lighter weight chenille yarn with a crochet hook one size smaller than the yarn wrapper recommends. Using a small hook produces tight fabric which you can stuff firmly later with out little gaps opening up between the stitches. For the finest yarns, you’ll also need to use smaller safety eyes. Here’s (roughly!) how tall your mouse will turn out using different yarn weights, and what size eyes to use:

Yarn weight	Squishy height (not including the ears)	Safety eye size
DK	4 inches (10cm)	⅜ inch (9mm)
Aran/worsted	5 inches (13cm)	⅜ inch (9mm)
Bulky	6 inches (15cm)	⅝ inch (16mm)
Super Bulky	7 inches (18cm)	⅝ inch (16mm)

Pattern notes

I’ve written this pattern in standard American crochet terms. It uses almost entirely single crochet, with just a small number of longer stitches in the tail. The stitches and their abbreviations I’ve used are:

Ch chain stitch
Sl st slip stitch
Sc single crochet
Sc blo single crochet in the back loop only
Hdc half double crochet
Dc double crochet
Inc increase (make 2 single crochets in the same space)
Dec decrease

For your decreases, use the invisible decrease method:

• Insert your hook into the front loop only of the next two stitches (fig. 1).
• Yarn over and pull through a loop. There are now two loops on the hook.
• Yarn over again, and draw through both loops (fig. 2).

Squishy crochet mouse pattern

This mouse is mostly body. Or giant head, depending on how you look at it! So let’s start there.

Body

Start your mouse’s body with either a magic circle, or by making 4 chain stitches and joining them in a circle with a slip stitch. Either method will work, but I find with fluffy chenilles the 4-ch loop is easier to tighten without snapping the yarn.

• 1st round: Ch 1, sc 8 into the magic circle or 4-ch loop, catching the yarn tail under the stitches as you go (8 sts). Gently pull the yarn tail to tighten the hole.
• 2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)
• 3rd round: *1 sc, inc* 8 times (24 sts)
• 4th round: *2 sc, inc* 8 times (32 sts)
• 5th round: *3 sc, inc* 8 times (40 sts)
• Rounds 6 – 23: Sc all the way round
• 24th round: 3 dec, sc 8, 6 dec, 8 sc, 3 dec (28 sts)
• 25th round: 3 dec, sc 2, 6 dec, 2 sc, 3 dec (16 sts)
• Put a stitch marker into the loop on your hook, and cut your yarn leaving a 24 inch tail.

Adding the eyes

Spread the body out flat in front of you. Since the decreases at the bottom of the body are bunched up, it will only lie flat with the decreases at the sides, giving you a distinct front and back.

Insert the safety eyes through the front of the body, about 7 or 8 stitches apart between rows 11 and 12. Obviously the aim is to get them as evenly positioned either side of the center line as possible, but it doesn’t matter if one eye is a stitch out, if it makes the spacing between them more appealing.

When you’re confident with the position of the eyes, press the backs on firmly.

Closing the body

Before you close the body, stuff it firmly with toy safe stuffing. Then put the last stitch from round 25 onto your hook and make one more round:

• 26th round: 8 dec, sl st (8 sts)

Poke in a little more stuffing if it will fix, then thread the remaining yarn tail onto a darning needle and sew the remaining hole closed. It’s not too important how you sew it closed exactly, but for the neatest result, you can’t beat using mattress stitch through the front loops only. The first picture below shows where the stitches go. Then pinch the beginning of the seam firmly with one hand, and pull the yarn tail firmly in the other direction with the other. The join should zip right up!

Adding the face

Here’s where we’re at so far:

To make a cute little button nose, grab your black yarn and start with a either a magic circle or a 3-ch loop (that’s not a typo – 3 chains, not 4!). Into the loop, sc 3, and sl st. Cut the yarn leaving a 12” tail and pull the tail right through the slip stitch.

Position the top of the nose about level with the center of the eyes, and sew it in place. Use the remaining yarn tail to embroider a mouth, then poke what’s left of it inside the body.

Finally, use some of your pink yarn to give your mouse long, translucent-looking whiskers (or skip to the end of the pattern to see how they’d look in white!). I started mine by pushing the darning needle into the back of the body, and right through to the front, at a spot just next to the nose. Then I made three whiskers on either side of the nose, and after the last whisker I pushed the needle right through to the back of the body again – coming out at the same place I went in earlier. Then I knotted the yarn tails together, trimmed them short, and poked the knot inside the body. The stuffing will keep it anchored in place.

The ears

With your pink yarn, make a magic circle or 4-chain loop.

• 1st round: Ch 1, then catching the yarn tail under your stitches, sc 8 into the magic circle or 4-ch loop (8 sts). Gently pull the yarn tail to tighten the center of the ear.
• 2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)
• 3rd round: *1 sc, inc* 8 times (24 sts)

In the first stitch of round 4, change color back to brown:

Insert the hook into the next stitch and draw through a loop of pink yarn.
Pick up the brown yarn and put it over the hook from back to front, then pull a loop of the brown yarn through both pink loops. Cut the pink yarn leaving a 3” tail, and continue with the brown yarn.

• 4th round: *2 sc, inc* 8 times (32 sts)
• Pause and tie the pink and brown yarn ends together, then trim them to about an inch long.
• 5th round: Sc blo all the way round (32 sts)
• 6th round: *2 sc, dec* 8 times (24 sts)
• 7th round: *1 sc, dec* 8 times (16 sts)
• 8th round: 8 dec, sl st (8 sts)

Cut the yarn leaving a 8” yarn tail, and sew the remaining hole closed using the mattress stitch technique above. Repeat the whole process to make a second ear.

Then, using a doubled-up length of brown yarn, sew the ears onto the top of the head. If you have some knitting needles, skewers, or chopsticks to hand, they’re really useful for holding the ears in position while you sew. Just insert them through the top of the ear and right down into the body. I use two for each ear, so the ear can’t spin around.

Tail time

My mouse’s finishing touch is his tail.

1. Using the pink yarn, make a slip knot with a 12” tail for joining to the body later.
2. Ch 18
3. Sk 1, sl st, sc, hdc, dc 14.
4. Cut the yarn leaving an 8” tail. Put the yarn tail onto a darning needle, then thread it through the last loop on your hook, to stop the stitches unravelling.
5. Fold the tail in half lengthways, with the backs of the stitches facing outwards. Whip stitch each of the chain stitches from step 2 to the top of their corresponding stitch in step 3, to make a long tube which tapers to a point at the end.
6. Thread any remaining yarn tail down inside the tail to hide it, then use the yarn tail from step 1 to attach the tail to the body.

Squishy crochet mouse complete

And here it is!

A day or so after finishing my mouse, I decided to see how he’d look with white whiskers instead. I think either works, and my camera really isn’t capturing much difference at all! I do slightly prefer the contrast of the white in real life, but if you don’t already have white and you don’t want to buy a whole ball just for this project, the pink totally works, and the pared back color palette is pretty effective in it’s own way. Here’s pink on the left, and white on the right (you’ll kind of have to take my word for it!)

Whatever fur color and whisker color you chose, and whatever size you make it in, I hope you have lots of fun with this pattern. And don’t forget to make him a cute puppy or adorable frog pal now too!

Happy crocheting!

The post Squishy Crochet Mouse Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Hello and welcome to my squishy crochet frog pattern. Well I suppose since he’s dry and bumpy rather than smooth and shiny he’s really a squishy crochet toad pattern. But then again he has a goofy smile and no back legs, so maybe it’s not the time for getting hung up on accuracy!

This simple amigurumi project is fast, and lots of fun to make. I’ll take you through the steps with the help of lots of photos, so even if you’re new to crochet you’ll be cuddling your own frog in no time!

Materials

To make your own cuddly frog, you’ll need:

• Super bulky chenille yarn for the body, eyes, arms, and tummy patch. I used King Cole Yummy yarn in green, and Cygnet Jellybaby yarn in teddy, which is a pale brown. The eyes and tummy patch would also look fantastic in yellow or lighter green. I only chose brown because I already had it in my stash and I was impatient to starting developing the pattern without having to go to the store first!
• A small quantity of black yarn for the mouth. I used bulky chenille again, but almost any black yarn would work.
• Size J (6mm) crochet hook
• Stitch markers or scraps of yarn
• ⅝” (16mm) safety eyes
• 2oz (55g) toy safe stuffing
• Darning needle

You could also make this pattern using lighter weight chenille yarn, with an appropriately sized hook and smaller safety eyes for pupils. My frog is about 7″ tall, but with bulky yarn he’d be 6″ tall, worsted yarn he’d be 5″ tall, and DK yarn he’d be 4″ tall. I haven’t had a chance to test whether the eyes and arms would be as effective in non-chenille yarns yet – let me know in the comments if you try it!

Squishy crochet frog pattern

I’ve written this pattern in standard U.S. crochet terms. The stitches and their abbreviations you’ll need to know are:

Ch chain
Sl st slip stitch
Sc single crochet
Inc increase (make 2 single crochets in the same space)
Hdc half double crochet
Hdc-inc half double crochet increase (make 2 half double crochets in the same space)
Dc double crochet
Dec decrease (see below)

Decreasing in amigurumi

For your decreases, I recommend using the invisible decrease method, because it does exactly what it says in the name! If you haven’t tried it before, it goes like this:

1. Insert the hook through the front loops only of the next two stitches (below left).
2. Draw through a loop of yarn (two loops remaining on the hook).
3. Yarn over the hook and draw through both loops (below right).

Decrease complete!

The body

Using your green yarn:

Ch 4 and sl st into the furthest stitch to join.
1st round: Ch 1, sc 8 into the magic circle or 4-ch loop (8 sts)
2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)
3rd round: *1 sc, inc* 8 times (24 sts)
4th round: *2 sc, inc* 8 times (32 sts)
5th round: *3 sc, inc* 8 times (40 sts)
Rounds 6 – 20: Sc all the way round
21st round: 3 dec, sc 8, 6 dec, 8 sc, 3 dec (28 sts)
22nd round: 3 dec, sc 2, 6 dec, 2 sc, 3 dec (16 sts)

Stuff the body firmly with toy safe stuffing.

23rd round: 8 dec, sl st (8 sts)

Cut the yarn leaving a 8” tail. Poke in a bit more stuffing if it will fit, then sew the remain stitches closed using mattress stitch.

If you haven’t used mattress stitch before, it’s really handy for closing the body and eyes of your frog neatly. Each stitch goes through the front loops only of round 23, following the order in the first picture below. Make the stiches loosely at first (second picture) then pull them tight one at a time, or hold the start firmly and pull the yarn tail in the opposite direction (third picture).

Belly patch

Using your brown, yellow or lighter green yarn:

Ch 4 and sl st into the furthest stitch to join.
1st round: Ch 1, sc 8 into the magic circle or 4-ch loop (8 sts)
2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)
3rd round: Sl st, sc, hdc-inc, hdc, inc, sc 2, inc 2, sc 2, inc, hdc, hdc-inc, sc, sl st (22 sts)
4th round: Sl st 3, inc, hdc-inc 2, *sc, inc* 5 times, sc, hdc-inc 2, inc, sl st 2 (33 sts)

Cut the yarn leaving a long tail (about 18”) for sewing. Pull the yarn tail right through the last slip stitch.

Now grab the body again. Since the decreases at the base are bunched up at the sides, the front and back of the body should be distinctly flattened (there’s no difference between them – you choose which is which!) Position the belly patch in the center of the front of the front of the body, lining the bottom edge up with about round 19 or 20 on the body. Sew it in place using the yarn tail – for the neatest result pick up two stitches at a time from the edge of the belly patch, through the back loops only (as in the photo below).

Making the eyes

Starting with your contrast color yarn (brown, yellow or green):

Ch 4 and sl st into the furthest stitch to join.
1st round: Ch, 8 sc into the 4-ch loop (8 sts)
2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)

In the next round, change color to green during the first single crochet:

• Insert yarn into the next stitch and draw through a loop of brown yarn.
• Loop the green yarn over you hook from back to front, and draw it through both brown loops on the hook.
• Cut the brown yarn leaving a short tail, and knot the green and brown yarn tails together tightly.

Joining the eyes to the body

Position the eyes on top of the head so the gap between them at the narrowest point is between half an inch and an inch. There’s going to be an obvious place on the front of the eyes where the yarn color changes to green. It doesn’t matter where this goes, as long as it’s at the same position on both eyes – you can see I’ve positioned it at roughly 2 o’clock.

An optional but handy way to hold them in place while you sew is by pushing two double-ended knitting needles, mattress needles, or metal chopsticks through the top of the eye and down into the body (using two stops the eye spinning). You could even use two handle-less crochet hooks, but be very careful how you remove them!

Sew around the perimeter where the eye meets the body using more green yarn, and hide the yarn ends inside the body.

Making the arms

Making fiddly tubular limbs is my least favorite part of amigurumi, which is why my squishy designs don’t usually have them! But these cute little forearms are made slightly differently – and they’re very fast to whip up!

Foundation chain: Using your green yarn, ch 8.
1st row: Sk 2, dc 6.
2nd row: Fold the row of stitches into a tube lengthways. Starting with the dc nearest the hook, insert the hook through the unused loop of the foundation chain at the bottom of the stitch and through the top loops of the dc. Yarn over and pull through all three loops to make a slip stitch. Sl st 5 more times along the rest of the row to close the sides of the tube. How tight you make these stitches will determine how much the arms curve – for straight arms, tug through a little yarn after each slip stitch.
To make the fingers: *Ch 3, skip the 1st chain from hook, single crochet once into each of the two remaining chains, sl st into the end of the arm (exactly where isn’t important)* three times. Cut the yarn leaving a 12” tail, and thread the yarn tail up through the arm and out of the shoulder for sewing to the body later. Weave in the tail from the beginning of the foundation chain.

The second arm

Only if the first arm you made is curved, make the second arm like this (otherwise repeat the steps above for a second straight arm):

Foundation chain: Using your green yarn, make a slip knot with a 24” yarn tail, then using the yarn on the skein-side of the knot, ch 8.
1st row: Sk 2, dc 6.
2nd row: Fold the row of stitches into a tube lengthways. Starting with the dc nearest the hook, insert the hook through the unused loop of the foundation chain at the bottom of the stitch and through the top loops of the dc. Yarn over and pull through all three loops to make a slip stitch. Sl st 5 more times along the rest of the row, aiming for the same tightness as before, so achieve a matching curve. Cut the yarn, leaving a short tail for weaving in later.
To make the fingers: Using the yarn 24” yarn tail from step 1, *ch 3, skip the 1st chain from hook, single crochet once into each of the two remaining chains, sl st into the end of the arm (exactly where isn’t important)* three times. Thread the yarn tail up through the arm and out of the shoulder for sewing to the body later. Weave in the tail from the end of step 3.

Join the arms to the body using the yarn tails, a couple of rounds up the body from the top of the belly, and about in line with the outside edge of the eyes.

Embroider the mouth

Finally, thread about 18″ of black yarn onto a darning needle – I’ve used 36″ and doubled it up for extra impact. Push the needle through between two stiches on the back of the body, through to the front. Pull the yarn through until there’s tail about 3″ sticking out from the back of the body. Embroider the mouth using back stitch and the grid in the body stiches as a guide. At the end of the the final stitch, push the needle out through the same place as the yarn tail on the back of the body. Tie the two tails together, trim the excess yarn, and poke the knot inside the body to hide it.

Done!

Your amphibian amigurumi is complete! I hope you enjoyed making it and you’re completely charmed by the results. For some more unusual animal projects, check out Lucy’s gecko, manatee and puffer fish patterns!

The post Squishy Crochet Frog Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

How cute is this 3D flower granny square? The simple six-petal outline of the flower is easy to make, and really effective. I love how it channels nostalgic florals, 1960’s flower power and the Irish fashion designer Orla Kiely in one big cheerful color-pop.

It’s a perfect way of adding visual depth and tactile detail to granny squares, without gobbling up yarn (I’m looking at you bobble stitch).

How big is it?

My granny squares have 6 rounds, but round 3 (the petals) completely overlaps rounds 4 and 5. Made with dk yarn and a size F (4mm) hook, they measure 4” across (give or take a little, depending on the exact yarn you choose, and your tension). They’re just the right size and proportions for a granny square scarf or sweater. For a bigger project like a blanket, you could easily add a 7th (and 8th) round following the same pattern as round 6. It would add an extra inch to each side of your square, and also make the spaces between the flowers to scale with the size of your project.

3D flower granny square pattern

This pattern is written in standard US crochet terms. The stitches and their abbreviations you need to be familiar with are:

Ch chain
Dc double crochet
Bpdc back post double crochet
Dc-inc double crochet increase (make 2 dc in the same space)
Hdc half double crochet
Sk skip the next stitch from the previous round, and work into the one after
Sl st slip stitch

Rounds 1 & 2

Rounds 1 and 2 follow the basic formula for making a flat circle.

• To start: Using your flower color, either make a magic circle, or by make a chain of 4 stitches and join the first and last chains with a slip stitch.
• Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), dc 11, sl st to the top of the ch 3.
• Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), dc in to the same st, dc-inc 11, sl st into the top of the ch 3.

Round 3

It’s time to add some petals to your flower!

• *Sk 1, dc 6, sk 1, sl st 1* 6 times.

Round 4

Round 4 is made into the back of round 2:

• Sl st around the ch 3 at start of round 2: insert your hook from back to front on the right of the chain and front to back on the left of the chain, yarn over and complete your sl st.
• Ch 3.
• Moving clockwise, bpdc around next st from round 2, and ch 1.
• *Bpdc around the next st from round 2, bpdc around the next st from round 2 again, and ch1* 11 times
• Sl st into the top of the ch 3 from step 2.

Cut the yarn and weave in the ends. Here’s how we’re looking from the front (right) and back (left) now:

Round 5

The next round is worked into the ch 1 spaces from round 4.

• Join your background color yarn into one of the ch 1 spaces from round 4. (Ch 5, dc 3) into the same space.
• Hdc 3 into the next ch 1 space.
• Hdc 3 into the next ch 1 space.
• (Dc 3, ch 2, dc 3) into the next ch 1 space – this makes a corner.
• Repeat steps 2 – 4 twice more.
• Repeat steps 2 & 3.
• The next ch 1 space should be the same one you started in – dc 2 into it, and join the round with a sl st in the 3rd st of the ch 5.

Round 6 onwards

From now on, you granny square follows the same pattern as a regular solid granny square:

• Ch 5 and dc 2 into the corner space.
• Dc along the side of the square.
• (Dc 2, ch 2, dc 2) into the next corner space.
• Repeat steps 2 and 3 twice more.
• Dc along the final side.
• Dc into the corner space you started in, and sl st into the 3rd st of the ch 5 to join.

You can finish there, or add more rounds if you wish.

Done!

Cut the yarn, weave in the ends, and block your finished square. My top tip is to block them face down, to relax and flatten out the petals a bit (but don’t squash them!)

The post 3D Flower Granny Square appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

It’s been a tough week! My mother in law has been taken into hospital, and I wanted to make her something to cheer her up a bit. She recently admired the bag I made for my daughter, so I’ve made her a similar one, but with a twist!

This easy spotty crochet bag pattern uses 13 circle granny squares, with a simple joining method and a little bit of detailing on the handles. It took me a couple of afternoons to make up, and should be a great quick project for an experienced crocheter or a fun introduction to crochet if you’re a beginner.

• What you’ll need
• The Pattern

Your Equipment List

Here’s what I used to make this bag. You can substitute any of the yarns for different brands, but I recommend sticking with a high cotton content as they hold up well to use.

• Dark pink aran yarn – Rico Creative Cotton*
• Pale pink aran yarn – Rico Creative Cotton*
• Beige aran yarn – Rico Creative Cotton*
• Cream aran yarn – Lily Sugar n’ Cream*
• White macrame cord
• 10mm crochet hook
• 4mm crochet hook
• Yarn needle
• 14 stitch markers or safety pins

Terms and Stitches

• magic circle
• tr – treble/triple crochet
• dc – double crochet (US)
• hdc – half double crochet
• sc – single crochet
• slst – slip stitch
• ch – chain
• 2dc – increase by making two single double into one stitch
• cc – color change

Easy Spotty Crochet Bag Pattern

I made this bag in sections, so I have separated them out for you to keep things simple.

The Granny Squares

Begin in your darkest pink shade, and make 13 of the following circle granny squares.

Round 1

Make a magic circle.

Ch3 (counts as 1dc), dc x 11 into the magic circle. Slst into the top of ch3 to close. (12)

Round 2

Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into the same stitch, 2dc x 11. Slst into the top of the ch3. (24)

Cut yarn and weave in ends. cc pale pink

Round 3

Ch5 (counts as ch2 + *1dc), 1dc into the same stitch, 1hdc, 1sc, slst, 1sc, 1hdc, (1dc, ch2, dc into the same space)* repeat 3 times. 1hdc, 1sc, slst, 1sc, 1hdc, slst into third ch.

Round 4

Ch5 (counts as 2ch and 1dc), 2dc into corner space, *1dc x 7, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) into next corner* 3 times. 1dc x 7, 1dc into corner space, slst into third ch.

Cut yarn and weave in ends. cc beige

Round 5

Ch5 (counts as 2ch and 1dc), 2dc into corner space, *1dc x 11, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) into next corner* 3 times. 1dc x 11, 1dc into corner space, slst into third ch.

Round 6

Ch5 (counts as 2ch and 1dc), 2dc into corner space, *1dc x 11, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) into next corner* 3 times. 1dc x 11, 1dc into corner space, slst into third ch.

Cut yarn and weave in ends.

Blocking time

This is the point at which I recommend stacking up those squares on a blocking board, and leaving them overnight.

Creating the Shape

Once your ends are weaved in, you’re going to create the shape and pin it in place with stitch markers or safety pins.

Lay five squares right side down, then five more directly on top of them right side up. Take the remaining three squares and fold them in half along the diagonal. Place two at each side, and one at the bottom.

Now take a stack of stitch markers, and use one to join each of the corners that meets another. You should be able to pick the bag up at the end of this process and have it retain its shape.

Edging the Opening

I decided to make an exposed join for my bag, so if you want the same you’ll need your right sides to stay on the outside.

You’re going to take your 4mm crochet hook and cream yarn, and work around the opening of the bag. Starting at the top of one of the places that will hold a handle, join into the corner space with a slip stitch, and make a chain of one stitch. Now work your way around the opening making a single crochet into each stitch. When you read your starting point, slip stitch into the ch1.

Weave in the end.

Joining the Granny Squares Together

Continue with your cream yarn to join the squares together.

You’ll be working along each diagonal line between the squares, up and around the bag as you go. Start each section at a corner, and use single crochets to join the two squares edge stitches together.

If you’ve not joined granny squares together before, you’ll find a more detailed explanation here.

Crocheting the Handle

To create my handle I teamed up a strand of the cream yarn and a strand of white macrame cord. I then used the 10mm crochet hook to ch 100.

Slst the last to the first chain loop and tie off.

Attaching the Handle

Hold the loop of chains between your hands so that it’s got an even length at each side. Then place it so that the end of each side of the handles sits at each side of the bag’s opening.

Thread your needle with the dark pink yarn, and you are now going to attach the strap along the edges of the bag as shown in the image below. You will sew, weaving in and out through each of the main bag’s adjacent stitches once, with the handle strap stitches being looped through twice as they are twice as long.

Once you’ve attached the handles along each side, take the same colored yarn and weave in and out one side of the loops of the handle’s chain, to tie it in with the join to the bag.

Sew in all of your remaining loose ends, and you’re done!

The post Easy Spotty Crochet Bag Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Hello and welcome to my squishy crochet cow pattern! If you’re new to crochet, or if like me you find the legs are enough to put you off other amigurumi cow patterns, then this is the project for you.

The result is cute and cuddly, but unmistakeably bovine. The pattern uses only simple crochet terms, and the size and pattern can be easily adapted to make a cow plush that’s a complete one-off.

Materials

To make your own squishy cow you’ll need:

• White yarn. I’ve used King Cole yummy yarn, which is a super bulky chenille.
• Black or brown yarn for the markings. This needs to be the same weight as the yarn for the body – I’ve used King Cole Yummy yarn again.
• Pink and light brown yarns for the muzzle and horns. These also needs to be the same weight as your other yarns – I’ve used Hobbii toucan yarn in light pink, and Cygnet jellybaby yarn in teddy bear.
• A crochet hook. To achieve a tight fabric that doesn’t allow the stuffing to peek through, use a hook one size smaller than the yarn wrapper recommends.
• Safety eyes. See notes on size, below.
• Toy stuffing.
• Darning needle.

You can choose any weight or fiber of yarn you like. Plush chenille yarns like I’ve used are especially cuddly, but tweed and boucle yarns are really attractive alternatives. The pattern works with any weight of yarn, but obviously the size of your cow will change according to what you choose.

• DK yarns make a cow roughly 4 inches tall.
• Worsted yarns make a cow roughly 5 inches tall.
• Bulky yarns make a cow about 6 inches tall.
• Super bulky yarns make a cow about 7 inches tall (like Marigold).
• And jumbo yarns produce a cow 8 inches tall or higher (jumbo is a bit of a catch all category for all sorts of mammoth options!)

NB. These are all rough estimates, and don’t include the horns!

Pattern notes

This pattern is written in standard U.S. crochet terms. The only stitches you need to be familiar with are:

Ch chain
Sl st slip stitch
Sc single crochet
Hdc half double crochet
Dc double crochet
Inc increase (make two single crochet in the same space)
Dec decrease

For your decreases, use the invisible decrease method: insert the hook into the front loop only of the next two stitches (fig. 1 below). Yarn over and draw through both (two loops remaining on hook), yarn over again and draw through remaining two loops (fig. 2 below).

Squishy crochet cow pattern

Your bouncy bovine is going to come together in several parts:

• Body
• Ears
• Horns
• Muzzle
• Patches

It’s quite the list, but each part taken by itself is very simple, so they add up quickly! You can start each one with either a magic circle or by making 4 chains and joining them in a loop with a slip stitch. Each piece is then made in spiraling rounds, so count the stitches in each round carefully or use a stitch marker to keep track of where the round ends.

Body

For a cow with patches (like mine, pictured throughout) make the body entirely in white yarn. For a striped cow, click here for pattern notes about color changes.

• Make a magic circle, or ch 4 and sl st to join.
• 1st round: Ch 1, sc 8 into the magic circle or 4-ch loop (8 sts)
• 2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)
• 3rd round: *1 sc, inc* 8 times (24 sts)
• 4th round: *2 sc, inc* 8 times (32 sts)
• 5th round: *3 sc, inc* 8 times (40 sts)
• Rounds 6 – 23: Sc all the way round
• 24th round: 3 dec, sc 8, 6 dec, 8 sc, 3 dec (28 sts)
• 25th round: 3 dec, sc 2, 6 dec, 2 sc, 3 dec (16 sts)
• Put a stitch marker into the loop on your hook, and cut your yarn leaving a 24 inch tail.

Ears

Make two – I’ve gone for one black and one white, but you can make them to match if you prefer!

• Make a magic circle, or ch 4 and sl st into the furthest chain from the hook to form a loop.
• 1st round: Ch 1, sc 8 into the 4-ch loop (8 sts)
• 2nd round: Sc all the way round (8 sts)
• 3rd round: *1 sc, inc* 4 times (12 sts)
• 4th & 5th rounds: Sc all the way round (12 sts)
• 6th round: *2 sc, inc* 4 times (16 sts)
• 7th round: Sc all the way round (16 sts)
• Slip stitch, skip 6 stitches, and slip stitch again, so the base of the ear folds round. Cut the yarn leaving a tail for sewing later, and pull the end right through the last slip stitch.

Horns

Make two in your light brown yarn.

• Make a magic circle, or ch 4 and sl st into the furthest chain from the hook to form a loop.
• 1st round: Ch 1, sc 6 into the 4-ch loop (6 sts)
• 2nd round: Sc all the way round (6 sts)
• 3rd round: *Sc 2, inc* twice (8 sts)
• Sl st, cut the yarn leaving a tail for sewing later, and pull the end right through the last slip stitch. Stuff each horn with a little toy stuffing.

Muzzle

Make one, using your light pink yarn.

• Make a magic circle, or ch 4 and sl st to join.
• 1st round: Ch 1, sc 8 into the magic circle or 4-ch loop (8 sts)
• 2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)
• 3rd round: *Sc 2, inc* twice, sc 4, *inc, sc 2* twice (24 sts)
• 4th round: Sc 19, sl st.

Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing, and pull the tail right through the final slip stitch.

Patches

For me, the most fun part of developing this pattern was casting aside the rules of pattern and symmetry that are normally important in amigurumi, and experimenting with some freeform shapes for Marigold’s patches. Each patch starts with a regular circle, and finishes with an outer round that combines long and short stitches to give a wobbly edge. You don’t have to position those wobbles in exactly the same ways I did – the only thing you must remember is to increase the size of the last round by 8 stitches, so your patches remain flat!

To read these patterns, when a pair of stitches is in brackets, it means you make them in the same space – in other words, they replace a regular increase.

1st patch

• Make a magic circle, or ch 4 and sl st to join.
• 1st round: Ch 1, sc 8 into the magic circle or 4-ch loop (8 sts)
• 2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)
• 3rd round: Sc, (hdc, dc), dc, (hdc, sc), sc, inc, sc, (sc, hdc), *dc, (dc 2)* twice, hdc, inc, sc, inc (24 sts).
• Sl st, cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing, and pull the tail right through the final stitch.

2nd patch

Another way to make a patch which isn’t an unnaturally perfect circle is to leave your final round incomplete:

• Make a magic circle, or ch 4 and sl st to join.
• 1st round: Ch 1, sc 8 into the magic circle or 4-ch loop (8 sts)
• 2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)
• 3rd round: *1 sc, inc* 8 times (24 sts)
• 4th round (incomplete): Hdc, dc, (dc 2), dc, hdc, inc, sc 2, (sc, hdc), dc 2, (dc, hdc), sc 2, inc
• Sl st, cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing, and pull the tail right through the final stitch.

3rd patch

• Make a magic circle, or ch 4 and sl st to join.
• 1st round: Ch 1, sc 8 into the magic circle or 4-ch loop (8 sts)
• 2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)
• 3rd round: *1 sc, inc* 8 times (24 sts)
• 4th round: *2 sc, inc* 8 times (32 sts)
• 5th round (incomplete): Sc 3, (hdc, dc), dc2, hdc, inc, sc, hdc, dc, (dc 2), dc 2, hdc, inc, sc 2, hdc, (dc 2), dc 2, hdc, inc

Don’t fancy patches?

If patches don’t appeal to you, then you can leave them off – but my 10 year old daughter thinks this makes the pattern look more like a goat! Another alternative is to make your cow’s body with stripes. Three alternating stripes of black and white would resemble these beautiful Belted Galloway cattle I was lucky to encounter on a recent hike:

To achieve this look, start the body in black or brown yarn, switch to white at the start of round 10, and back to black or brown at the start of round 19.

Assembling your cow

Now you have a substantial pile of cow parts in front of you, it’s time to bring them to life! Start by laying the body out flat in front of you, with the opening at the bottom running from left to right. Position the eyes about 8 stitches apart, between rows 11 and 12.

Attaching the ears and horns

Next sew the ears onto the sides of the head, so that the bottom edge of the join is about level with the top of the eye. Join the horns to the top of the head slightly forwards of the ears, and directly above the eyes. For the ears and horns, I find the easiest thing to do is sew round the join, then feed the yarn tail out through the back of the body. When you’ve joined the second ear/horn, feed the yarn tail out through the same spot. Knot them together, trim the ends, and poke the knot back inside the body. The stuffing will anchor it in place.

Position the muzzle in front of you with the yarn tail towards your body. Use some black yarn to add nostrils – I’ve used the same black yarn I used for the ear and patches, but doubled up. Each nostril is a single stitch, and the yarn ends are tied together inside the muzzle. Then hold the muzzle in position against the body so that the yarn tail faces downwards, and the top of the muzzle sits about level with the tops of the eyes. Sew ¾ of the way round the edge, then poke some stuffing inside before you close the remaining gap.

Eyelashes

Cows are famous for their fluttering long lashes, and I think our squishy deserves some too! Adding them is easy – cut a length of yarn about three times the width of your cow’s body. Tie a loose overhand knot in the center, and tighten it around the stem of the eye.

Use a darning needle to thread each end of the yarn right through the body, so they come out through the same spot – as with the ears and horns. Tie them together, trim the ends, and tuck the knot inside the body.

Sewing on the patches

Finally, arrange the patches and sew them in place. There are no rules here – this is the moment to make your cow completely one-of-a-kind.

Squishy crochet cow summary

I’ve really enjoyed coming up with an amigurumi interpretation of a cow without the fiddly legs. I think the results are pretty cute! For a more lifelike take on a crochet cow, take a look at Lucy’s shaggy highland cow, and Texas longhorn cow patterns. I love the how much possibility there is in crochet for such different interpretations of the same idea! If you’re on social media, we’d love to see how your own cow turns out – you can tag Lucy in a photo on Facebook or Instagram. Happy crocheting!

There’s more!

Don’t miss these other gorgeous squishy animal patterns!

• Squishy crochet duck
• Squishy crochet chick

The post Squishy Crochet Cow Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Hello! This is Otto, my squishy crochet eggplant pattern (pictured with my previous strawberry and watermelon designs – I’ll have a whole produce aisle soon!).

He’s so simple to make, I feel almost sheepish writing it up. It’s as if I can’t expect you to take me seriously, if my patterns don’t possess some minimum degree of sophistication. But he’s so dang cute, I’m going to force myself to overcome such qualms. After all, this pattern is perfect for anyone looking for a really accessible introduction to amigurumi, using just the most basic crochet techniques. It could be a quirky and unusual cuddly toy for a child, or you could make a small one as a kitchen mascot for a foodie friend along with a quirky can of soup! There’s one thing that’s for sure – you won’t need to worry about someone else giving the same gift!

Materials

You can use any weight of yarn to make your own squishy eggplant, and the thickness you choose will determine how big it turns out.

• DK yarn – 4 inches tall
• Worsted yarn – 5 inches tall
• Bulky yarn – 6 inches tall
• Super bulky yarn – 7 inches tall
• Jumbo yarn – 8+ inches tall

These measurements are just a rough guide – the exact size will depend on the yarn you use, its fiber, etc. Otto is made from super bulky yarn (approx 130 yards per 100g) and he’s 6¾ inches tall, not including his stalk.

To make your own squishy eggplant you’ll need:

• Yarn for the body. Obviously the classic color to choose is purple! Although I did recently discover white eggplant seedlings for sale at a plant fair, and the seller told me they can also be green, red, or black! I’m using Cygnet jelly baby chunky yarn in deep violet – it’s a bit brighter than your regular eggplant, but I think that helps to prevent the eyes and mouth getting lost against their background.
• Green yarn. This needs to be the same weight as the yarn for the body, but you can get creative with a different fiber if you like. I’m using Cygnet jelly baby chunky yarn in forest green.
• A scrap of black yarn for the smile.
• A crochet hook. Unless you already crochet tightly, use one size smaller than the yarn wrapper recommends. This will make your stitches slightly on the tight side, and prevent the stuffing showing between them.
• Safety eyes. I’ve used 16mm eyes, which would also be about the right size if you’re using bulky yarn. With DK or worsted yarn use 12mm eyes, and with jumbo yarns try 20mm eyes.
• Toy stuffing.
• Stitch markers or yarn scraps for marking the start of each round.
• A darning needle.

Pattern notes

This pattern is written in standard U.S. crochet terms. The stitches you’ll need to know are:

Ch chain
Sl st slip stitch
Sc single crochet
Inc increase (make 2 sc in the same space)
Dec decrease (see below)
Hdc half double crochet
Dc double crochet
Tr treble crochet

Take a look at Lucy’s guide to basic crochet stitches if any are unfamiliar to you. For your decreases, I recommend using the invisible decrease method, which is perfect for amigurumi:

1. Insert the hook through the front loop only of the next two stitches (fig. 1). Yarn over and pull through both front loops.
2. Yarn over and pull through the two remaining loops (fig. 2).

Squishy crochet eggplant pattern

Let’s start with the biggest component of your squishy eggplant, which is of course, the body. It’s made in spiraling rounds, so count the stitches in each round carefully, or put a stitch marker in the last stitch of the previous round, so you can easily tell when you’ve come full circle again.

• To begin, either make a magic circle, or ch 4 and sl st to join.
• 1st round: Ch 1, sc 8 into the magic circle or 4-ch loop (8 sts)
• 2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)
• 3rd round: *1 sc, inc* 8 times (24 sts)
• 4th round: *2 sc, inc* 8 times (32 sts)
• 5th round: *3 sc, inc* 8 times (40 sts)
• Rounds 6 – 23: Sc all the way round
• 24th round: 3 dec, sc 8, 6 dec, 8 sc, 3 dec (28 sts)
• 25th round: 3 dec, sc 2, 6 dec, 2 sc, 3 dec (16 sts)
• Put a stitch marker into the loop on your hook, and cut your yarn leaving a 24 inch tail.

Adding the eyes and closing the body

Before finishing the body, it’s time to add the eyes. Spread the body out flat in front of you – since the decreases are grouped in clusters at the sides of the body, it will only lie relatively flat with the opening running from side to side. Position the eyes between rows 12 and 13, and about 6 stitches apart (the exact distance isn’t important – you can judge what looks right!) Press the backs on securely.

Close the remaining opening with mattress stitch through the front loops only. If that’s not something you’ve used before, picture 1 below shows where each stitch goes – the needle is already in position to make the first stitch. Make the stitches loosely first, so you can see clearly to position the next one (picture 2). With smooth yarns you can tighten them by pinching the seam at the beginning and pulling the yarn tail in the other direction (picture 3). But for fluffy yarns, tighten the stitches one at a time.

Here’s how your eggplant should look so far:

Adding the stalk and calyx

Here’s a bit of botany for you: each of the green leaves around the top of an eggplant is called a sepal, and altogether they are called the calyx. For this squishy, the calyx and the stalk are made separately, then joined to each other, and finally to the body.

Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing, and pull the tail right through the final slip stitch.

Poke a little stuffing into the stalk, and sew it to the center of the calyx.

Then position the stalk and calyx slightly forwards of center at the top of your eggplant, and use the yarn tail from the calyx to sew it down.

Embroidering the mouth

Your squishy just needs one more finishing touch to bring it to life – a smile! Thread your scrap of black yarn onto a darning needle, and follow the grid pattern in the stitches to give your eggplant a cheery grin.

Here’s my finished crochet eggplant (left), posing with my vegetable muse. Really if it wasn’t for the face, I don’t see how you could tell them apart at all!

Squishy eggplant complete!

I hope you’ve had fun making your own crochet eggplant. If you’re on social media, we’d love to see a photo – please tag Lucy on  Facebook or Instagram. And let me know what other squishy fruit and vegetables you’d like patterns for in the comments box down below. Happy crocheting!

The post Squishy Crochet Eggplant Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.