Beyond Color Theory

And I think it’s important to note that not everyone sees or experiences colors the same way. This isn’t about color theory, it’s about working out what fits with your style and your crochet plans. You might love a good clash and combination of different shades. And what is great about my methodology, is that you can still use it if your color choices are more unique, to get just what you want too.

But first things first – if you have always struggled with colors, then you don’t have to go it alone.

Color Planning Made Easy

If you are not a natural with crochet colors, then there are some great shortcuts to brilliant combinations.

Manufacturers sell color packs

Great for beginners and those who want effort free palettes, color packs are often produced by manufacturers either as a set of well matched yarns or with a pattern attached that you can use them to create.

They tend to be a cheaper way to buy multiple colors of yarn too, because the cost is often a little less than buying those skeins individually.

Same brand, same line

Not all yarn manufacturers do set color packs, but they do mostly tend to have color themes in their particular lines. So for example, Hobbii has a Cosy line of yarn which I use a lot, and I find that whichever yarns I pick from it they look pretty good together.

Variegated yarns

Some yarn skeins have multiple colors in one. These can be in blocks of color or in more of a gradient style, but either way they are great, easy, cohesive ways of adding several colors to a single project.

Copy the designer

If the pattern you are following has the yarns specified, then using them is of course going to be the best way to get the exact same finish as the pattern designer.

Blank backgrounds

One of my favorite ways to make use of various colors without worrying about how well they match, is to work on a project with a large area of white space. Having several rounds of white between each different color gives enough space to make pretty much any shade look nice in the same project.

My Crochet Colors Method

I have quite a strong system for selecting crochet colors, and I’ve been using it for several years now. It’s only when I don’t bother to do what I usually do, that things start to look a bit funky.

Before I begin any new project, I ask myself a few questions to help my color choices.

What is the purpose?

If it is going in a certain room of your house, do you want it to match the colors there? If it’s going to be worn, what colors look good on you? Knowing the purpose of the project can give you some huge hints on which colors will be the best.

Is it a gift?

The inclination to create something in colors I want, even when I know it’s for someone else, is almost overpowering. But I do try really hard to put myself in their shoes, and I’m sure you do too.

If you are crocheting a gift, remember to ignore your personal taste and only think about theirs. No matter how much it hurts…

Choose one color first

Baby Blanket Do’s

These tips should help you to make the best baby blanket possible!

Choose a classic pattern

Something simple is much more likely to be to the new parents’ taste, and therefore appreciated!

Keep it light weight

Babies are really good at telling us when they are too cold, but don’t always let us know when they are too hot. So it’s best to use multiple lighter layers rather than one thick heavy one.

Be picky about texture

Baby blankets should be soft and gentle. Babies’ skin is new to the world, after all, so it’s super sensitive. When you pick up the ball of yarn you want to use, give it a rub on your face and between your fingers and make sure it feels nice.

Full cottons tend to be a little rough, as do some acrylics. Merino wool or blends of it are often brilliant texture wise, but it’s worth considering that some kids are allergic to wool.

Avoid chenille/plush yarn

Although the texture of plush yarns is lovely, it is not a good choice for baby blankets. It’s very prone to shedding, and you don’t want bits of fluff stuck in the baby’s mouth or fingers.

Pick a washable yarn

Babies come with a lot of mess, and much of it requires a fairly hot wash to remove… Make sure your yarn is washing machine friendly, not just hand washable.

Pre-wash the yarn or the finished blanket

This ensures any colorfastness issues are sorted out and that the blanket is ready for use right away. It also helps with the final feel and drape of the blanket too!

Give a small note with washing instructions

It’s a good idea to make it clear that the blanket can be washed, and how!

Make sure it’s big enough

Babies are small, but their blankets don’t need to be. Very small baby blankets will only get used for a few weeks at most, so it’s better to give a bit more size to your project.

Hide your yarn tails really well

When I’m crocheting baby blankets, I make sure to hide my yarn tail even more securely than normal. I leave twice the tail length, and weave it in with a yarn needle, changing direction periodically to make sure it’s nice and secure.

Block it

It goes for all blankets, but blocking makes such a difference to how your finished blanket looks. And those finishing touches make a big impact when you present your blanket to the new parents.

Think about what the parents will like, not what you like

We all have our preferences when it comes to styles of crochet. The things I love are hilariously different to my Mum’s preferences when we are browsing crochet patterns together.

It’s important to remember that your baby blanket is really a gift for the parents, at least for now. And if you want them to get a lot of use out of it, it’s probably a good idea to make it match their style.

Present it in a way that shows its value

You’ve spent hours making this blanket, don’t be like me and give it to someone in a grocery bag. The only time a baby blanket I’ve gifted was poorly received, it was when I shoved it in a bag at the last minute.

Present it in a way that shows its value, after all, it has a considerable value in terms of your time (and yarn!).

Choose a simple edging

Complex or lacy borders can get caught on fingers and toes. Personally, I always favour a single or double crochet edge, regardless of blanket style, when it’s being made for a baby.

Unsolicited Gifts

Remember that not everyone likes to receive unexpected gifts. Sometimes I make something for someone with no rhyme or reason, and on more than one occasion I’ve then kept the item because I’ve realised that what I’d actually be doing is giving them an obligation. Plenty of people feel like they have to give back when they receive, and it can become quite awkward if the relationship starts to feel unbalanced.

The gifts then sit on the shelf for a few months until there is a special occasion where it’s appropriate to hand it over. Without making them think they now need to bake me a cake or something. (Which is not something I want. Unless it’s fruit cake… or cheesecake…)

Size Assumptions

Crocheted clothing can make amazing gifts, but only for some people. Firstly there is the issue of getting your gauge right for the size, but mostly it’s the actual issue of size. It’s a bit of a know your audience one.

I would self combust from sheer humiliation if someone made me a sweater and I couldn’t get it over my head. The dread of knowing they’d spent hours crocheting only for my daft cranium not to fit, I think I’d have to attempt to cut my ears off just to make them feel less disappointed. If you aren’t close enough to ask someone their clothing size, you probably shouldn’t make them clothes.

Oh, and don’t make clothes for someone you know is on a health or dieting kick. They might not fit anymore by the time you’re done!

Yarn Choices

I’ve talked a lot before, probably too much, about how important texture is to me. I simply cannot stand the feel of certain yarns, and I have a friend who is just the same. I’m making her a gift for her upcoming wedding, and the time I’ve spent picking the right yarn so I know it doesn’t make her skin crawl is something else.

Cotton silk blends are a relatively safe bet for most people. Merino wool tends to be a good texture for most as well, but then you have to worry about…

Allergies

Wool allergies are surprisingly common. If you intend to make something, especially clothes, out of wool yarn then it’s a good idea to make sure you aren’t going to leave them with an itchy case of hives to go with the gift.

High-Maintenance Items

The other thing to consider is maintenance. Some crocheted items of clothing are stunning, but they need such careful washing, storing and even wearing that they are unlikely to actually be used.

If you are giving away an item that needs special care, then you can mitigate this to an extent by including clear care instructions with it. Ideally written down!

Presentation

It shouldn’t be the case, but i’ve found presentation really adds to the perceived value oft the gift. When I hand wrap it in nice paper with a ribbon I am almost guaranteed to get a bigger and more enthusiastic reaction compared with when I shove it in the bottom of a bag.

Time vs Appreciation

Few things are as disheartening as spending hours or even days of your life creating something, only to receive a lukewarm or confused response to it. I know I wrap up far too much of my self esteem in what people think of my crafting creations, but if you are anything like me then really weigh this up. Often smaller, quicker projects as best for gifting, because even when it goes wrong you aren’t so super invested in the outcome.

Be Prepared for Any Reaction

I was not prepared for the first unenthused reaction I received to my crocheted gift, but if you give enough it’s going to happen. Even if you create and try to follow your own gift giving rules like I do these days!

Just in case you are as sensitive as me, remember, someone not liking your gift doesn’t mean they don’t like you. It doesn’t actually even mean they don’t appreciate the time you spent, or think it’s pretty or useful in some way. We all have bad days, we all have overly negative reactions sometimes, and one occasion of bad gift giving and receiving doesn’t have to mean anything more than that.

I have a terrible habit of replaying conversations in my head, and trying to infer meaning where there often wasn’t any at all. What I find really helpful now if taking a deep breath, and just reminding myself that in the grand scheme of things, how someone felt on one moment about a single thing I’ve made just doesn’t actually matter.

Charity & Donation

Finally, if you are desperate to crochet but have run out of space, then there are lots of charities that would love you to create things for them. Both my kids came home from hospital in handmade little woolen hats, made anonymously for the hospital and treasured by me to this day.

Save every scrap

Never throw yarn away, no matter how small the scrap, tatty the skein or unpleasant the texture. There is always something you can do with leftovers, from details on amigurumi to padding out your stuffing.
And with that in mind…

Experiment with stuffing

There are so many ways you can fill your amigurumi that go beyond the traditional yarn stuffing. In the past I’ve made use of cushion filling, old duvet contents, and scrap yarn of course. I’ve also experimented with shredded clothing and even old wash cloths (after giving them a good clean!)

Scrap yarn as stitch markers

I own a lot of stitch markers, but honestly I don’t need to. For the most part, I just use a scrap of yarn to mark my place. This method works best if you use a different yarn texture, so the fibers bind a little and it is less likely to fall out.

Reuse yarn by frogging old projects

If you don’t have yarn in your stash, or one that matches your project, then why not look at your old projects. Now obviously don’t undo anything you love or use, but if you have a sweater you mostly made that you decided you now hate (true story for me) then why not just unravel it and use the yarn again?

Blocking board alternatives

Blocking boards are really helpful for crochet projects, but they aren’t actually an essential in the way your hook is. And frankly, traditional blocking boards sometimes aren’t big enough for certain projects anyway.

You can cut out the cost of buying a blocking board completely by weighing down your crochet with heavy books, or stretching it onto a pinboard. I’ve also found pinning it onto an ironing board very effective, as long as you don’t have any crinkly clothes that you’ll need to attend to over that time period!

Cut pattern costs

Patterns costs can really build up for some crocheters. And whilst there are obviously a lot of upsides to paying for patterns from hard working designers, it is possible to find them for free too. You can buy patterns second hand, or use completely free patterns online.

Makeshift shelving

There are costs to crochet that you don’t consider when starting, and one is storage. But you don’t need to break the bank buying shiny new shelving, you can find plenty of great storage solutions at a low price by looking for second hand options or alternatives.

For example, I used cheap shoe racks to store my yarn for ages, and they worked just fine and didn’t look too bad either!

Cheap yarn isn’t always a bargain

Just because yarn is discounted, doesn’t mean you should buy it. I hope you haven’t fallen foul of this before, but I know that I have several times.

I’ll grab a couple of skeins because they’re 50% off in the store, but they weren’t actually yarns I had a project in mind for. On a couple of occasions I must admit they weren’t yarns I’ll ever see myself using, they were just really pretty or soft!

A discounted or low priced yarn is only a bargain if you were going to buy it anyway.

Safety eye alternatives

You don’t need to spend money on safety eyes, they can also be sewn on. Or you can even use buttons from old clothes!

Yarn bowl alternatives

I don’t personally use a yarn bowl, but I often admire them online or in craft stores. And a lot of people find them very practical too. If you feel that a yarn bowl would benefit your crocheting but you don’t want to spend any money, then it’s totally possible to use a bowl from the kitchen, a colander or even just to do what I do and drop the skein on the floor!

DO Block when working in 2D

Almost all two dimensional crochet projects can benefit from being blocked.

DO Dampen your yarn

I tend to put my crochet onto the blocking board then spray it down, with a towel underneath to catch any droplets. But you can spray your yarn then peg it up, either way is fine.

DO Stretch your work

When putting your crocheted fabric onto your blocking board, make sure to stretch it out. Don’t just stick it on according to its current shape, or it won’t neaten up.

DO Choose a solid board and pins

When you block your crochet, it takes the new shape because the fibers are under tension. This means that the board and pins are supporting the weight of the natural opposing pull of the yarn. To stay the right shape and be reusable for years to come, you need to choose a solid board and strong pins.

DO Go with metal pins

Not only are metal pins less likely to bend under the pressure of the blocking process, but there is no risk of snagging on splinters like with wood. Although it still pays to check the rods for burrs before sliding your crochet on!

DO Get the biggest board you can

Taking into account the size of your craft space and your budget, I recommend going as big as you can. This is based on my semi-frequent disappointment when I can’t quite fit the thing I’ve just made onto the board!

DO Get a board with plenty of size options

If you are going for a blocking board with removable pegs, look for one with the most pegs possible to fit the space available. This will give you more options for pinning out your work to the perfect size.

DO Plan your granny squares based on the board size

The granny squares I’ve pictured here turned out to just fit on the board. It was a close thing! In future I’ll definitely be working up the first square with the board next to me, to make sure I don’t over size it.

DO Block in sections

Remember to block your project in it’s composite parts, to make the best use of your blocking board.

DO Attach as soon as possible

Once you’ve blocked your squares and you are happy with how they look, attach them together as soon as you can to have the best chance of retaining that shape. Fibers do naturally shift back towards their original position once you remove them, but crocheting or sewing them together quickly helps to reduce this.

DON’T Soak the yarn

It’s really easy to over wet your crochet before blocking, and it’s not beneficial to the process. When sprayed down it should feel damp to the touch, but not be dripping or able to be wrung out.

Knife vs Pencil Grip

When using the pencil grip your thumb and index finger hold onto the hook, one at either side. If the hook has an indent, then they will often focus around this point, but that’s not essential. The middle finger sits nearer to the head of the hook, on the same side as the index finger.

In the knife grip your index finger instead stretches down the hook towards the head, and your middle finger rests bent alongside it.

The Impact of Hook Grip Types

The standard grips vary not just between individuals, but depending on which type of hook you use. Standard narrow wooden, plastic or metal hooks lend themselves more to the knife style of grip, in my experience. However, these days many of us are more comfortable with chunky, ergonomic handles, which are often easier to hold with a pencil grip.

The level of friction on your hook also makes a difference, because it will alter how securely you want to hold your hook. A rougher or more textured grip is less likely to slip out of your fingers, so can be held more gently or potentially with fewer fingers required!

My Grip

I hold my hook with my thumb on one side, and all my other fingers (bar the little one) on the other side. Technically speaking, for me personally it’s a pencil grip, because that’s how I hold my pencils or pens too. Various teachers tried to train me out of it with no success, and honestly it has never caused me any issues there either.

But my method doesn’t tally with the textbook two grips, and in much the same way as I felt self conscious about writing at school because it drew attention, I also still to this day feel a bit exposed when I share videos which unavoidably show my unusual multi-fingered hook grip. But I shouldn’t!

Why The Fuss?

A good hook grip can make your actions more dextrous and your speed faster. It is also assumed that it’ll help with things like joint pain, for those of us that chuck prolonged periods of time at the activity.

Some crocheters assume that the only way to achieve these goals is by using one of those two textbook grips, but as someone with an unusual hand position, I just don’t agree.

What Grip Should You Use?

You should hold your crochet hook how you feel comfortable. That means your fingers, but also your wrist and elbow joint. And remember, the type of grip you’ve got will impact exactly how you hold your hook.

I recommend sticking with what you know if you are happy, regardless of others’ ‘helpful’ suggestions. However, if you are experiencing any issues in terms of pain or dexterity, then it’s always worth trying out alternative ways of holding your hook.