I absolutely love designing crochet sea creatures, and I realised recently that I’d never made a crochet jellyfish. What a travesty! I absolutely adore tactile projects, so I really leaned into the dangling tentacles, and I hope you have lots of fun hooking them all up. I think it’s a really satisfying, simple project.

What You’ll Need

I used the following to make my jellyfish:

• 50g cream worsted weight merino wool yarn
• 100g pink worsted weight merino wool yarn
• 4mm crochet hook
• Yarn needle
• Toy safe stuffing
• Stitch markers
• 12mm safety eyes

Stitches and Terms

• magic circle
• sc – single crochet
• 2sc – two single crochets in the same stitch
• sc2tog – use one single crochet to join two stitches
• ch – chain
• sk – skip
• FLO – work into the front loop only
• BLO – work into the back loop only

The Head

Begin working in your pink yarn

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches (8)

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 4

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 5

1sc x 32

Round 6

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 8 (40)

Round 7 – 8

1sc x 40

Round 9

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 8 (48)

Round 10 – 11

1sc x 48

Round 12

(1sc x 5, 2sc) x 8 (56)

Round 13 – 14

1sc x 56

Round 15

(1sc x 6, 2sc) x 8 (64)

Round 16 – 21

1sc x 64

Round 22

(1sc x 6, sc2tog) x 8 (56)

Round 23

(1sc x 5, sc2tog) x 8 (48)

Round 24

(1sc x 4, sc2tog) x 8 (40)

Round 25

1sc x 40

Round 26

FLO (1sc x 4, 2sc) x 8 (48)

Round 27

2sc x 48 (96)

Round 28

Into round 25’s BLO work 1sc x 40

Round 29

1sc x 40

Round 30

FLO (1sc x 4, 2sc) x 8 (48)

Round 31

2sc x 48 (96)

Round 32

1sc x 96

Round 33

Into round 29’s BLO work 1sc x 40

Round 34

1sc x 40

Round 35

FLO 2sc x 40 (80)

Round 36

1sc x 40 into BLO of round 34

Round 37

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 8 (32)

Round 38

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 8 (24)

Round 39

(1sc, sc2tog) x 8 (16)

Insert safety eyes into the front. Use the joint at the back to show you where the front is, and place the eyes approximately eight stitches apart, at round 18 level.

Fill with toy stuffing.

Round 40

sc2tog x 8 then sew closed

Four White Tentacles

Work using your white yarn

Round 1

ch91

Round 2

sk1, 1sc x 90

Using the tail end of the yarn, sew the tentacles around the underside middle of the jellyfish

Eight Pink Tentacles

Work using your pink yarn

Round 1

ch101

Round 2

sk1, 1sc x 100

Using the tail end of the yarn, sew the tentacles around the underside edge of the jellyfish

Final Details

The final eye details can be hand sewn on with the cream yarn, just making a long stitch underneath each eye to give it depth.

You might also like to give your jellyfish a little mouth for some extra character!

The post Easy Free Crochet Jellyfish Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Hello! Welcome to my pattern for Bubblegum, a squishy crochet unicorn without the fiddly legs. She’s sweet and whimsical, and she’d look right at home in any unicorn-mad child’s plush toy collection. It’s the first time I’ve tried making one of these simple amigurumi plushies with a muzzle, and it took several attempts to come up with something I’m happy with. I hope you’ll have a go and see what you think.

Choosing yarn

Usually I take pride in the fact that all my squishy patterns can be replicated with whatever yarn you have to hand. I mostly use chenille and velvet yarns because I love how tactile and squashy they are. They’re perfect for making soft toys for children, and I just happen to have a plush-toy-mad 10 year old. But for this pattern, I do think that only chenille yarn will work – for the muzzle at least. Otherwise the construction looks a bit holey.

I’ve used King Cole Yummy in the shade Tutti Frutti (above center) and Hobbii Toucan yarn in Lavender (above left), which are both super bulky yarns. I also had a light pink yarn laid out, but in the end I decided it didn’t provide enough contrast.

Bubblegum is 7” tall to the top of her head, not including her ears or horn. Here are some alternative chenille yarns, and roughly how tall your unicorn will turn out if you use them:

• DK weight – Rico Ricorumi. Finished height: 4 inches.
• Worsted weight – Bernat Baby Velvet. Finished height: 5 inches.
• Bulky weight – Bernat Velvet. Finished height: 6 inches.
• Super bulky weight – King Cole Yummy, Paintbox Chenille, Bernat Blanket, Premier Parfait (to name a few – this really is the category with all the choice!) Finished height: 7 inches.
• Jumbo weight – Bernat Blanket Extra, Premier Parfait. Finished height: 8-9 inches.

Other materials

I also used:

• A size J/10 crochet hook. I recommend using one size smaller than the yarn wrapper recommends – it results in tension which is slightly tight, and keeps the stuffing from poking out between the stitches.
• Polyester toy stuffing.
• 16mm safety eyes. These work with bulky and super bulky yarns. For DK and worsted yarns try 12mm eyes, and for jumbo yarns try 20mm eyes.
• Stitch markers or yarn scraps.
• Sewing thread in a closely matching color to the muzzle.
• A sewing needle
• A darning needle
• Scissors

Pattern notes

Bubblegum’s body is worked in a spiral from the top down. It starts as a circle, and finishes with a flat oval base, so that she can stand up unsupported. The ears, horn and muzzle are made separately and sewn on. And lastly the eyelashes, nostrils and mouth are embroidered on.

This pattern uses standard American crochet terms. The only ones you need to know are:

Ch chain
Sc single crochet
Sl st slip stitch
Inc increase (make 2 sc in the same place)
Dec decrease

If you’re brand new to crochet, look at Lucy’s guide to basic techniques before you start. When you get to the base, I recommend using the invisible decrease technique:

• Insert your hook through the front loop only of the next stitch, then through the front loop only of the following stitch (3 loops on hook) (fig. 1).
• Yarn over and draw through two loops (two loops remaining on hook).
• Yarn over and draw through both remaining loops (fig. 2).

Now let’s begin!

Making the body

Is it a body, or simply a disembodied head? Who can say? Let’s not overthink it.

• Ch 4 and sl st into the furthest chain from the hook to join.
• 1st round: Ch 1, sc 8 into the 4-ch loop (8 sts)
• 2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)
• 3rd round: *1 sc, inc* 8 times (24 sts)
• 4th round: *2 sc, inc* 8 times (32 sts)
• 5th round: *3 sc, inc* 8 times (40 sts)

It’s useful to pop a stitch marker in the last stitch of round 5 to help keep track of where the following rounds begin and end – especially if you’re using a speckled yarn like mine! I’ve tied a scrap of yarn around my stitch.

• Rounds 6 – 23: Sc all the way round
• 24th round: 3 dec, sc 8, 6 dec, 8 sc, 3 dec (28 sts)
• 25th round: 3 dec, sc 2, 6 dec, 2 sc, 3 dec (16 sts)
• Put a stitch marker into the loop on your hook, and cut your yarn leaving a 24 inch tail.

The horn

• Ch 4 and sl st into the furthest train from the hook to join.
• 1st round: Ch 1, sc 6 into the 4-ch loop (6 sts)
• 2nd round: Sc all the way round (6 sts)
• 3rd round: *2 sc, inc* twice (8 sts)
• 4th round: Sc all the way round (8 sts)
• 5th round: *3 sc, inc* twice (10 sts)
• 6th round: Sc all the way round (10 sts)
• 7th round: *4 sc, inc* twice (12 sts)
• 8th round: Sc all the way round (12 sts)

Make 1 slip stitch, cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing, and pull the yarn tail right through the slip stitch. Stuff the horn firmly, taking care to poke a small pinch of stuffing right into the the tip of the horn at the start.

The ears

Make two.

• Ch 4 and sl st into the furthest train from the hook to join.
• 1st round: Ch 1, sc 8 into the 4-ch loop (8 sts)
• 2nd round: Sc all the way round (8 sts)
• 3rd round: *1 sc, inc* 4 times (12 sts)
• 4th & 5th rounds: Sc all the way round (12 sts)
• 6th round: *2 sc, inc* 4 times (16 sts)

Make one slip stitch, skip 6 stitches, and make another slip stitch. The ears will fold round at the base like a horse’s, helping them to stand upright. Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing, and pull the tail right through the slip stitch.

The muzzle

• Ch 3
• 1st round: Skip the chain closest to the hook and work 8 sc into the other two stitches like this (I’ve wiggled my hook free, to give you a clearer view):

• 2nd round: Inc, 2 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc, inc (12 sts)
• 3rd round: Sc, *inc, 2 sc* 3 times, inc, sc (16 sts)

Sc once more to even out the shape, sl st, cut the yarn, and pull the yarn tail right through the slip stitch.

Now, the muzzle isn’t quite perfect at this stage. In all likelihood, you have two holes either side of the center, where you worked into both sides of the foundation chain. They look a bit like nostrils, except a unicorn with toy stuffing poking out of its nose won’t do at all! I tried finding another stitch pattern which avoids them, but I was never happy with the shape of the muzzle.

In the end I decided to flip the muzzle inside out, and use a needle to run a loop of sewing thread inside the stitches around each hole – as indicated by the arrows. Then tie the thread in a knot and pull it tight to close the hole (close each hole separately, with its own loop of thread).

This is as good a time as any to embroider the nostrils and mouth on too, if you prefer. But I did it later, so I’ll come to the details of that in a moment!

Assembling your unicorn

Spread your unicorn’s body out flat in front of you, and position the eyes 7 stitches apart, between rows 10 and 11.

Press the backs on securely, and stuff the body firmly with toy stuffing. Work one more round:

• 26th round: Dec 8 (8 sts)

Use what’s left of the yarn tail to close what’s left of the opening, using mattress stitch through the front loops only of the remaining stitches. Make the stitches loosely at first following the sequence in fig. 1 below. Then either pull them tight one at a time, or pinch the starting point firmly and pull the yarn tail in the opposite direction.

Next sew on the horn slightly forwards of the top of the head, and the ears either side. The backs of the ears sit level with the back of the horn. The fronts end up slightly set back from the front of the horn.

Sew on the muzzle so the top sits level with or just below the bottom edge of the eyes. Stitch roughly two thirds of the way around the circumference of the muzzle, then poke some stuffing inside it and close the remaining gap. If you haven’t already done it, now’s time to add the mouth and nostrils. They’re always one of the details I add last, but more out of habit than anything else!

Embroidering the nostrils and mouth

I’m using a black chenille in the same weight as my other yarns to embroider the details of Bubblegum’s face. But you could use any contrasting color, a different fiber, or even double up a lighter weight yarn.

For the embroidery on the muzzle, first I threaded the yarn into a gap between the body and the muzzle, leaving a 3” yarn tail poking out from the gap for tying off later. The nostrils are two small stitches covering just one strand of yarn (or half a stitch) on the muzzle to keep them small. The mouth is a single longer stitch, and where you position it will make all the difference to your unicorn’s attitude! It can be an extra long stitch for a wide grin, or a short, off-center stitch for a wry smile.

Once you’ve made all three stitches (two nostrils and the mouth) feed the yarn back out through the same gap between the body and the muzzle. Tie the two yarn tails together, trim the ends short, and poke the knot and the ends inside the muzzle.

Adding the eyelashes

One of Bubblegum’s most winsome features is her eyelashes. And they’re incredibly easy to add.

• Cut a length of yarn roughly three times the depth of your squishy.
• Tie a loose overhand knot in the yarn, and position it around one eye.
• Tuck the yarn under the eye, then tighten the knot.

• Use a darning needle to thread the yarn tails into the body just beyond the outside edge of the eye. Roughly in the spots indicated by the arrows, but you can make them more flamboyant if you wish!

Bring both yarn tails out through the back of the unicorn in the same spot.

Tie them together, trim the ends, and poke the knot inside the body. The stuffing will keep the knot anchored in place.

Project complete

All the finishing details are in place, it’s time to stand back and admire your creation!

We’d love to see how it turned out, so if you’re on social media please tag Lucy in a post on  Instagram or Facebook and let us know what your unicorn is called!

Squishy crochet unicorn pattern – summary

I hope you’ve enjoyed following along with this pattern. Let me know what you think of the construction of the muzzle – would you make it differently? Overall I think Bubblegum pretty adorable, and she’s definitely been a hit with my daughter. I’m sure whoever receives your finished squishy unicorn will love it too. In the meantime, happy crocheting!

The post Squishy Crochet Unicorn Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Hello there! This is Radley, my squishy crochet axolotl pattern. I’m so proud of him, I honestly think I grinned from start to finish as I was developing his pattern! But then who could look at any axolotl without smiling? They’re just the strangest, most endearing creatures. This crochet pattern is very accessible and beginner-friendly for anyone who’s new to amigurumi. The body shape has a flattened base, which means these cute companions can stand up unaided – perfect for cuddly toys, cute ornaments, and friendly mascots.

Materials

To make your own squishy axolotl, you’ll need:

• Yarn for the body and gills (see notes on yarn color below). I used Hobbii’s Toucan yarn in light pink and lavender.
• A corresponding crochet hook* (see notes on yarn weight below)
• Safety eyes* (see notes on eyes below)
• Yarn scraps for embroidering the mouth
• Polyester toy stuffing*
• Darning needle*
• Scissors

Choosing your yarn: colors

I’ve chosen a barely-there pink for my axolotl’s body, and a more saturated pinky-purple for its external gills. I was inspired by the colors of leucistic axolotls, which are probably the best known and the most widely kept as pets. But the most common color for axolotls in the wild is greeny-brown, with black gills. Or you might make a xanthic axolotl, which has a gray body and black gills. Perhaps you’ll even be inspired by the blue axolotls in Minecraft, or invent a new color type all of your own!

Choosing your yarn: weight

My axolotl is made with super bulky yarn, and stands about 7” tall. You can easily make a bigger or smaller axolotl simply by using a heavier or lighter yarn.

• DK yarn makes an axolotl roughly 4” tall, which looks cute sitting on a desk or shelf
• Worsted yarns make an axolotl around 5” tall
• Bulky yarns make a 6” axolotl
• Jumbo yarns make axolotls 8-10” tall – big enough to use as a throw pillow!

Since my axolotl is destined to be a cuddly toy for my daughter, I’ve chosen a soft, squashy chenille yarn. But cotton, acrylic, and wool yarns will be just as effective. This is definitely a pattern you can adapt to make the most of materials you already have!

Eyes

Safety eyes are sold in lots of different diameters, and you’ll need to pick a pair to match the scale of your axolotl. These sizes are a guide, and a couple of millimeters bigger or smaller will work just as well, if you already have them:

• For an axolotl made in DK or worsted yarn, use 12mm eyes, or thereabouts.
• For an axolotl in bulky or super bulky yarn, use 16mm eyes, or close.
• And if you’re using a jumbo yarn, try 20mm eyes or larger (‘jumbo’ is a bit of a catch all category for all yarns heavier than super bulky, so might be worth making up the body, then deciding what size eyes will fit).

Pattern notes

This pattern is written in standard American crochet terms. The stitches you need to know are:

Ch chain
Sl st slip stitch
Sc single crochet
Inc increase (make 2 single crochets in the same space)
Dec decrease

Since the pattern decreases rapidly at the base, I recommend using an invisible decrease to minimize the appearance of gaps:

• Insert your hook into the front loop only of the next two stitches (fig. 1).
• Yarn over, and draw through both front loops (two loops remaining on hook).
• Yarn over and draw through both loops on hook (fig. 2)

Squishy crochet axolotl pattern

Like most amigurumi projects, Radley’s parts are made in spiraling rounds. Let’s make the body first, and then the external gills.

The body

You can start all of your axolotl’s parts with either a magic circle, or by chaining four stitches and making a slip stitch into the furthest stitch from the hook, to make a four-chain loop. Usually I prefer a magic circle for its simplicity, but a 4-chain loop is easier to tighten if you’re using a fluffy or chenille yarn.

• Magic circle or ch 4 and sl st to join.
• 1st round: Ch 1, sc 8 into the magic circle or 4-ch loop (8 sts)
• 2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)
• 3rd round: *1 sc, inc* 8 times (24 sts)
• 4th round: *2 sc, inc* 8 times (32 sts)
• 5th round: *3 sc, inc* 8 times (40 sts)
• Rounds 6 – 23: Sc all the way round
• 24th round: 3 dec, sc 8, 6 dec, 8 sc, 3 dec (28 sts)
• 25th round: 3 dec, sc 2, 6 dec, 2 sc, 3 dec (16 sts)
• Put a stitch marker into the loop on your hook, and cut your yarn leaving a 24 inch tail.

Set the body to one side for a moment, and let’s get to work on the gills!

Gills

Axolotls are unique among amphibians in that they keep their external gills and stay living in water when they reach adulthood. All the rest develop internal lungs and move out onto land. Axolotl’s external lungs are feathery, to provide maximum surface area for absorbing oxygen from the water.

But I’ve come up with a solid, squashy alternative which is simpler to make, and looks in keeping with the rest of Radley’s cuddly profile. They would look fantastic in fluffy, fur-effect yarn like Sirdar’s Alpine yarn. But I’m using yarn I already have, and I think a smooth finish is still very effective.

Top gills

Make two.

• Magic circle or ch 4 and sl st to join.
• 1st round: Ch 1, sc 8 into the magic circle or 4-ch loop (8 sts)
• 2nd round: *Sc 3, inc* twice (10 sts)
• 3rd & 4th rounds: Sc all the way round
• 5th round: *Sc 3, dec* twice (8 sts)
• 6th round: Sc all the way round

Sl st once, cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing, and pull the yarn tail all the way through the stitch.

Middle gills

Make two.

• Make a magic circle or ch 4 and sl st to join.
• 1st round: Ch 1, sc 8 into the magic circle or 4-ch loop (8 sts)
• 2nd round: *Sc 3, inc* twice (10 sts)
• 3rd & 4th rounds: Sc all the way round
• 5th round: *Sc 3, dec* twice (8 sts)
• 6th & 7th rounds: Sc all the way round

Sl st once, cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing, and pull the yarn tail all the way through the stitch.

Bottom gills

Make two.

• Make a magic circle or ch 4 and sl st to join.
• 1st round: Ch 1, sc 8 into the magic circle or 4-ch loop (8 sts)
• 2nd round: *Sc 3, inc* twice (10 sts)
• 3rd & 4th rounds: Sc all the way round
• 5th round: *Sc 3, dec* twice (8 sts)

Sl st once, cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing, and pull the yarn tail all the way through the stitch.

Fill all of the gills with just enough stuffing to give them shape (they don’t need to be very firmly stuffed), and they’re ready to organize on the sides of your axolotl’s body like this:

Assembling your axolotl

Now let’s start bringing your axolotl to life!

First spread the body out flat in front of you, and position the safety eyes 9 stitches apart, between rows 11 and 12. Press the backs on firmly. Then stuff the body as firmly as you can without stretching the stitches.

Using the yarn tail, make one more round:

• 26th round: 8 dec, 1 sl st (8 sts).

Close the body with mattress stitch, through the front loops only of the remaining stitches. The first picture below shows where the stitches go (the needle is already in position to make the first stitch). With smoother yarns you can make all of the stitches loosely then pinch the start point and pull the yarn in the other direction to tighten them up. But for chenille yarns you’ll probably need to tighten them one at a time.

Joining the gills

With the body closed, it’s time to join the gills. Start with one of the top gills, and position it 5 rows down from the center of the top of the head.

Hold the opening of the gill closed, so that you have two rows of four stitches to sew through. Sew the gill onto the body with four stitches, each one going into the gap between two rows on the body, and through one stitch on either side of the gill. When you’re finished the gill should end up covering 3 rows of the body. Join the middle gill immediately below the top gill, and the bottom gill immediately below the middle gill. In total, they should span 9 rows, and the bottom of the middle gill and top of the bottom gill should line up with the eyes.

Attach the other three gills on the other side of the body.

TIP: As you look down on the body from above, join the gills ever so slightly forward of the widest point of the body.

Embroidering the mouth

Axolotls have wide heads and wide mouths, so we’re going to capture their likeness with a lovely wide smile. If you also enjoy embroidery, you’ll recognize the method I’ve used as whipped back stitch. But if that’s a completely new term to you, don’t worry – I’m going to walk you through it.

Start by joining your black yarn to the body. Thread it onto a darning needle and under the stitch shown in picture 1. Tie the yarn ends together, leaving just enough space below the knot for the yarn to turn around the stitch. Insert the needle as shown in picture 2. As you pull it through, the knot in the yarn will spin around and end up inside the body (picture 3).

Make the rest of the smile in back stitch, and after the final stitch return the needle through the starting point (picture 4).

Now we’ve got off to a great start, but the mouth could do with looking a little bolder. So, tuck the yarn under the first stitch from right to left (left, below), and then under all the remaining stitches from left to right (middle, below). When you get back to the other side, tie off the yarn and poke the tail inside the body (right, below).

You’ve done it!

It’s time to give your awesome finished axolotl and squash and a squeeze, and maybe even give it a name.

Squishy crochet axolotl pattern summary

I hope you’ve enjoyed following this pattern. If you’re on social media and you’re happy sharing your results, we’d be thrilled to see them, so please tag Lucy’s Facebook or Instagram. The basic body shape is the same as for my other squishy crochet patterns.

• Cat
• Owl
• Bear
• Ice pop
• Strawberry
• Bubble tea

*The products linked in this pattern were carefully selected by Lucy Kate Crochet. If you decide to purchase using the links provided, we may earn a small commission on that sale. This is at no extra cost to you.

The post Squishy Crochet Axolotl Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

I crocheted a piglet, and I literally can’t wait to share it with you. My new more realistic crochet piglet design is a big step away from my previous cartoony amigurumi pig pattern from several years back. Although I still love the original, this one takes it up a notch.

You’ll find this crochet piglet pattern completely beginner friendly, and quick to create. The perfect new amigurumi project for a novice, or speedy gift idea for a regular crocheter to put together in just a few hours.

• What you’ll need.
• Pattern tips and techniques.
• My free crochet piglet pattern.

Your Equipment Checklist

• 3.5mm crochet hook
• 50g Rico aran cotton yarn*, dark pink
• 25g Rico aran cotton yarn*, light pink
• Dark brown yarn scrap
• Tapestry needle*
• Toy stuffing*
• 10mm safety eyes*

Abbreviations and Techniques

• sc – single crochet
• 2sc – two single crochets into one stitch
• sc2tog – one single crochet joins two stitches
• BLO – stitch into the back loop only
• cc – color change
• ch – chain
• sk – skip the next stitch

My Free Crochet Piglet Pattern

You’ll work the head and body as one piece, then sew the ears, tail and legs on afterwards.

The Head and Body

Work with your 3.5mm crochet hook and dark pink yarn.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 4

BLO 1sc x 18

cc light pink

Round 5 – 6

1sc x 18

Round 7

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 9 (21)

Round 8

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 9 (24)

Round 9

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 9 (27)

Round 10

(1sc x 5, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 9 (30)

Round 11

(1sc x 6, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 9 (33)

Round 12

(1sc x 7, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 9 (36)

Round 13 – 16

1sc x 36

Round 17

(1sc x 4, sc2tog) x 6 (30)

Round 18

1sc x 30

Round 19

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 6 (24)

Round 20

1sc x 24

Round 21

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 6 (30)

Round 22

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 6 (36)

Insert the safety eyes, and tie the backs together to indent them into the head slightly. Stuff your piglet so far.

Round 23 – 40

1sc x 36

Round 41

(1sc x 4, sc2tog) x 6 (30)

Round 42

1sc x 30

Round 43

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 6 (24)

Round 44

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 6 (18)

Fill with toy stuffing

Round 45

(1sc, sc2tog) x 6 (12)

Round 46

sc2tog x 6, then hand sew to close.

Four Legs

Begin in your dark link yarn with your 3.5mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches (8)

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

BLO 1sc x 16 (16)

Round 4

1sc x 16

cc light pink

Round 5 – 8

1sc x 16

FIll each leg with toy stuffing, and then sew the open end onto the underside of your piglet. Position them at each end of the body, they should sit flush next to each other in pairs. .

Two Ears

Your piglet’s crochet ears will be made in the light pink yarn only.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of five stitches (5)

Round 2 – 3

1sc x 5

Round 4

2sc x 5 (10)

Round 5 – 7

1sc x 10

Round 8

(1sc, 2sc) x 5 (15)

Round 9

1sc x 15

Do not stuff your piglet’s ears, instead flatten them and sew onto the top of the head.

Crocheting Your Piglet’s Tail

Ch20, sk, then 1sc into every remaining stitch.

Tie off leaving a long tail, attach your yarn needle and sew the tail into the center of the closing point of your crochet piglet’s body.

Finishing Details

To finish off your cute crochet piglet pattern, attach a scrap of dark brown yarn to your needle.

Weave back and forth in the face to create two nostrils, spanning across two stitches vertically either side of your original nose magic circle.

Tie off and hide the loose end, then move onto the trotters.

Weave twice through the starting magic circle of each foot, around to the color change level of the darker pink. This will give the suggestion of separate trotters on your amigurumi piggy feet.

*The products linked in this pattern were carefully selected by Lucy Kate Crochet. If you decide to purchase using the links provided, we may earn a small commission on that sale. This is at no extra cost to you.

The post I Crocheted a Piglet – Free Amigurumi Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

My free crochet squid pattern isn’t just cute, it’s quick and easy to hook up! The amigurumi squid’s design is worked in the round from central magic circles, with a few chains and a little surface crocheting thrown in for good measure.

• What you’re going to need.
• Extra helpful information.
• Your free crochet squid pattern.

It’s a perfect match for my puffer fish and amigurumi seahorse patterns, too!

Your Kit List

You won’t need much in the way of kit to crochet your own cute crochet cephalopod:

• 1.8oz / 50g pink aran weight yarn
• Scraps of cream aran weight yarn
• 4mm crochet hook
• 3mm crochet hook (optional for surface crocheting)
• 16mm safety eyes*
• Toy safe stuffing*
• Yarn needle

The pink yarn I used was Stylecraft’s Highland Heather aran yarn* in Wild Salmon. For the eye definition I used a scrap of James C Brett’s Flutterby chenille yarn*, and for the surface crocheting around the fins I used aran weight Knitcraft Change It Up recycled yarn in white.

Pattern Tips and Techniques

Here are the translations for the abbreviations you’ll find in the pattern. Follow the links to check out tutorials for any techniques that aren’t familiar to you.

• sc – single crochet
• 2sc – make two single crochets into the same stitch
• sc2tog – use a single crochet to join two stitches together
• BLO – back loop only
• FLO – front loop only
• ch – chain
• sk – skip the next stitch
• slst – slip stitch

The Free Crochet Squid Pattern

You’re going to crochet your amigurumi squid toy in a few sections, using your pink aran weight yarn and 4mm crochet hook.

Start With The Fin

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches (8)

Round 2 – 3

1sc x 8 (8)

Round 4

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 5 – 9

1sc x 16 (16)

Round 10

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 11

1sc x 24 (24)

Round 12

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 13

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 8 (40)

Round 14

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 8 (32)

Round 15

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 8 (24)

Round 16

(1sc, sc2tog) x 8 (16)

Lightly stuff just the central ridge section of the fin.

Flatten the open end, thread your yarn needle and sew your 16 stitches closed, so that it’s 8 stitches wide.

Crocheting Your Squid

The bulk of my crochet squid pattern’s head and body is worked in the round, just keep an eye out for the few back and front loop only sections.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

1sc x 12 (12)

Round 4

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 5 – 8

1sc x 18 (18)

Round 9

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 6 (24)

Round 10 – 15

1sc x 24 (24)

Round 16

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 6 (30)

Round 17 – 23

1sc x 30 (30)

Round 24

BLO 1sc x 30 (30)

Round 25

BLO (1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 6 (24)

Round 26

FLO 1sc x 24 (24)

Round 27 – 33

1sc x 24 (24)

Now sew your fin section onto the top of the magic circle at the start of this piece. Weave in and out of the area you sewed flat, securing it tightly with your needle.

Stuff the squid up to about round 27.

Round 34 – 36

1sc x 24 (24)

Insert the safety eyes in at the round 31 level, and tie the backs together to inset them slightly.

Round 37

BLO (1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 6 (18)

Round 38

(1sc, sc2tog) x 6 (12)

Stuff the remainder of your toy squid.

Round 39

sc2tog x 6, then hand sew to close.

Crochet Squid Arms

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2 – 21

1sc x 6 (6)

Don’t stuff your arms, just slip stitch to close and leave a long train of yarn for sewing later.

Attaching the Arms

I recommend that you use stitch markers to evenly space your arms around your squid before you sew them into place. When you’ve made all six, using your yarn needle weave in and out of the top of the arm and the base of your squid, using your markers to guide you.

Amigurumi Squid Tentacles

Round 1

Make a magic circle of four stitches (4)

Round 2 – 3

1sc x 4 (4)

Round 4

2sc x 4 (8)

Round 5

(1sc, 2sc) x 2, 1sc x 4 (10)

Round 6

(1sc, sc2tog) x 2, 1sc x 4 (8)

Round 7

sc2tog x 2, 1sc x 4 (6)

Round 8 – 9

1sc x 6 (6)

We’re now going to move out of working in the round, to stretch out the tentacles.

Ch40, sk, 1sc x 39, slst to the next stitch to secure.

Thread your needle with the yarn tail and sew a few stitches at the top of the pointed end of the tentacle to give it some definition and hide the yarn thread.

You can now sew your two tentacles to the bottom of your crochet squid’s body, so that they hang down between the arms.

Finishing Touches

Surface crochet and a little bit of light sewing will finish off your crocheted squid nicely.

To give the eyes definition thread your needle with the cream yarn, then inserting it from the back of the squid, push the needle out at the edge of the eye, then stitch over the eye until almost the opposite side, and push it back through to the back. Repeat for the other side, and tie the ends together. You can then hide them inside the head.

To define the fine, surface crocheting around the three edges. You might find this easier with a slightly smaller crochet hook, I used a 3mm for mine.

Your Crochet Squid

I must admit, my squid isn’t just pink because some squids are a pinkish shade, it’s because I love this yarn and wanted to use it on something. If you have a yarn that you love, why not make your amigurumi in it? Realism is great, but sometimes, especially with sea creatures, a creative color twist can take a toy to a whole new level.

Just a thought! Let me know what you think?

Oooh, and you might like to crochet him some sea creature pals, so do check out my seahorse and puffer fish patterns too when you’re done!

Happy Crocheting,

Lucy Kate, x

*The products linked in this pattern were carefully selected by Lucy Kate Crochet. If you decide to purchase using the links provided, we may earn a small commission on that sale. This is at no extra cost to you.

The post Free Cute Crochet Squid Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

My free crochet walrus pattern is designed to look like the impressive lumbering walrus, but with a cute and cheeky twist. You’ll find all of the techniques and stitches are beginner friendly, and I’ll walk you through each step of the process to keep it simple and fun.

• Your crochet equipment list
• Pattern notes and tips
• The free crochet walrus pattern

I’ve always been a bit obsessed with sea creatures, but this hasn’t really come into my crochet creations before! Since I hooked up this cute amigurumi walrus I’ve also produced a seal, sea otter, seahorse, puffer fish and squid. Quite the crochet sea creature collection!

Your Crochet Kit List

Here’s what you’ll need to complete this pattern:

• 100g Merino DK red brown yarn
• 20g cream acrylic DK yarn
• 5mm crochet hook
• 4mm crochet hook
• Yarn needle
• Safety eyes
• Toy safe stuffing

Crochet Walrus Pattern Notes and Tips

In this pattern you will need to use magic circles, single crochets, chains and slip stitches. You’ll also need to be fairly handy with a yarn needle, as there is a fair bit of sewing together to be done. If you’re new to crochet you might want to check out the following guides before you begin:

• The various ways of learning to crochet
• Basic stitches and techniques
• What to have in your crochet kit
• Single vs double crochets

I’ll give you the abbreviations with the full explanation for the first few rounds to help get you started.

Free Crochet Walrus Pattern

This pattern is made in two main sections, with smaller add-ons for the cheeks and front flippers. You’ll usually be working in the red/brown yarn with your 5mm crochet hook, but the tusks will require the acrylic cream yarn and 4mm hook.

Walrus Crochet Pattern for the Head and Main Body

This section will be worked in rounds from a central magic circle. You’ll need a size 5mm hook and your red/brown yarn.

Round 1

Magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

Make two single crochets into each of the six stitches in the round, it will now total twelve.

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

Put one single crochet into the next stitch, then two into the following. Repeat until the end of the round.

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 4

sc x 18

Round 5

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 6 (24)

Round 6

sc x 24 (24)

Round 7

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 6 (30)

Round 8

sc x 30 (30)

Round 9

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 6 (36)

Round 10

sc x 36 (36)

Round 11

(1sc x 5, 2sc) x 6 (42)

Round 12 – 15

sc x 42 (42)

Round 16

(1sc x 5, sc2tog) x 6 (36)

Round 17 – 20

sc x 36 (36)

Round 21

(1sc x 4, sc2tog) x 6 (30)

Round 22 – 25

sc x 30 (30)

Round 26

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 6 (24)

Round 27 – 30

sc x 24 (24)

Round 31

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 6 (18)

Round 31

(1sc, sc2tog) x 6 (12)

Round 32

(sc2tog) x 6 (12)

Insert safety eyes and fill with toy safe stuffing.

Slip stitch to close

Walrus Crochet Cheeks

The cheeks are a short few rounds, still working with your 5mm hook and red/brown yarn

Round 1

Magic circle of 8 stitches

Round 2

2sc x 8

Round 3

sc x 16

Slip stitch to close ring, and sew with slight raise to cheek position.

Crochet Walrus Tail

Round 1

Magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 4

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 6 (24)

Round 5

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 6 (30)

Round 6

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 6 (36)

Round 7

1sc x 36 into the back of each stitch for one round.

Round 8 – 10

1sc x 36

Round 11

(1sc x 4, sc2tog) x 6 (30)

Round 12 – 16

sc x 30

Round 17

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 6 (24)

Round 17 – 20

sc x 24

Round 21

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 6 (18)

Round 22 – 24

sc x 18

Round 25

(1sc, sc2tog) x 6 (12)

Round 25

(sc2tog) x 6 (6)

Round 26

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 27

1sc x 12 (12)

Fin Side One

You are now going to break up your continuous round, and turn it into two separate circles, from which you’ll build the walrus’ back fins.

Step 1

1sc x 6, then stitch across the circle into your first single crochet to complete a circle.

Step 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Now you are going to add definition to the walrus’ fins.

Step 3

• Chain 4, then missing the final chain space, single crochet back into the chain three times until your hook is at the base of the chain.
• Slip stitch through the next stitch and the one on the other side of the circle, beginning to bring it to a close.
• Repeat from the beginning of this step 5 further times, then slip stitch to close.
• Repeat the process now for the fin on the other side.

Joining the Walrus’ Tail and Body

Using your yarn needle and a length of red/brown yarn, sew into the stitches you put into the back during round 7 to attach the tail to the body.

Walrus Tusks and Whiskers

The Tusks

To produce the tusks I used a slightly more coarse white yarn, and you’ll need your smaller 4mm hook.

Round 1

Magic circle of 4 stitches

Round 2 – 6

1sc x 4

Tie off and pull the loose end through tusk

Attaching the tusks and creating whiskers

Take a length of your red/brown yarn and attach a yarn needle.

Use this yarn to sew the tusks onto the base of the cheeks.

You will then take the length of yarn and sew it through the middle of the cheeks to create whiskers.

Your Walrus’ Front Flippers

The characteristic walrus front flippers are unstuffed, and made in the red/brown yarn using a 5mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3 – 10

sc x 12 (12)

When complete use your yarn needle to sew the flippers onto the front of your walrus’ body.

Your Crochet Walrus

I hope you’ve enjoyed this pattern, and if you have any questions just hit me up in the comments section below. And don’t forget to share pictures of your complete crochet walrus toy on my Facebook page or Instagram.

Happy Crocheting,

Lucy Kate, x

The post Free Crochet Walrus Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.