Worrying about money is no joke, and it’s something that so many of us are contending with right now. And although it’s not top of the financial concerns checklist, being able to continue to enjoy your hobbies is really important, especially in times of stress.

Crocheting can be an expensive craft, but it’s great for your mental health. Fortunately, you don’t need to break the bank to continue to hook up gorgeous creations.

Use what you’ve got

I find it so hard to say no to new yarn. Especially when I see it in person in the store. I also find it hard to not buy new yarn for new projects. But I also have a fairly overly excessive yarn stash.

What I try to do these days is to look carefully at everything on my shelves before I buy something new.

When you are planning a new project, try to use the yarn you already have before you go out and buy some more. That might mean adapting your plans, but you could come up with something even better than you’d originally planned.

Yarn swap with a friend

If you’ve got a knitting or crocheting buddy, then send them a photo of your stash and suggest a yarn swap. A great way for you both to get something new without paying a cent!

Buy second hand

If you haven’t got a yarny friend, then second hand purchases are a great way to get yarn that’s better suited to your budget. Thrift shops, antique shops, or market stalls are all great places to go yarn hunting.

Keep ‘stock’ yarn to a minimum

It’s difficult not to make impulse yarn purchases, and the way I dissuade myself is through shelf space.
Have a defined area in your home that is for yarn, and tell yourself that you aren’t allowed to overflow out of it. It helps to curb the impulse to bring home something new when you know you’ve already used your allotted area. Well… it helps a little!

Save every scrap

Never throw yarn away, no matter how small the scrap, tatty the skein or unpleasant the texture. There is always something you can do with leftovers, from details on amigurumi to padding out your stuffing.
And with that in mind…

Experiment with stuffing

There are so many ways you can fill your amigurumi that go beyond the traditional yarn stuffing. In the past I’ve made use of cushion filling, old duvet contents, and scrap yarn of course. I’ve also experimented with shredded clothing and even old wash cloths (after giving them a good clean!)

Scrap yarn as stitch markers

I own a lot of stitch markers, but honestly I don’t need to. For the most part, I just use a scrap of yarn to mark my place. This method works best if you use a different yarn texture, so the fibers bind a little and it is less likely to fall out.

Reuse yarn by frogging old projects

If you don’t have yarn in your stash, or one that matches your project, then why not look at your old projects. Now obviously don’t undo anything you love or use, but if you have a sweater you mostly made that you decided you now hate (true story for me) then why not just unravel it and use the yarn again?

Blocking board alternatives

Blocking boards are really helpful for crochet projects, but they aren’t actually an essential in the way your hook is. And frankly, traditional blocking boards sometimes aren’t big enough for certain projects anyway.

You can cut out the cost of buying a blocking board completely by weighing down your crochet with heavy books, or stretching it onto a pinboard. I’ve also found pinning it onto an ironing board very effective, as long as you don’t have any crinkly clothes that you’ll need to attend to over that time period!

Cut pattern costs

Patterns costs can really build up for some crocheters. And whilst there are obviously a lot of upsides to paying for patterns from hard working designers, it is possible to find them for free too. You can buy patterns second hand, or use completely free patterns online.

Makeshift shelving

There are costs to crochet that you don’t consider when starting, and one is storage. But you don’t need to break the bank buying shiny new shelving, you can find plenty of great storage solutions at a low price by looking for second hand options or alternatives.

For example, I used cheap shoe racks to store my yarn for ages, and they worked just fine and didn’t look too bad either!

Cheap yarn isn’t always a bargain

Just because yarn is discounted, doesn’t mean you should buy it. I hope you haven’t fallen foul of this before, but I know that I have several times.

I’ll grab a couple of skeins because they’re 50% off in the store, but they weren’t actually yarns I had a project in mind for. On a couple of occasions I must admit they weren’t yarns I’ll ever see myself using, they were just really pretty or soft!

A discounted or low priced yarn is only a bargain if you were going to buy it anyway.

Safety eye alternatives

You don’t need to spend money on safety eyes, they can also be sewn on. Or you can even use buttons from old clothes!

Yarn bowl alternatives

I don’t personally use a yarn bowl, but I often admire them online or in craft stores. And a lot of people find them very practical too. If you feel that a yarn bowl would benefit your crocheting but you don’t want to spend any money, then it’s totally possible to use a bowl from the kitchen, a colander or even just to do what I do and drop the skein on the floor!

Hook storage

There are some gorgeous storage options for hooks that are specially made, but they are by no means essential. Personally I store my hooks in an old pencil case, and a novelty mug, but an old jam jar or glass from your kitchen all work just as well.

The post 16 Budget Friendly Crochet Hacks appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Every crochet project starts with a single stitch. If you’re learning to crochet for the first time, you’re going to need to know the basic crochet techniques and stitches, including how to cast on, make chain stitches, and work one of the most simple crochet stitches: either single, half double, double, or treble crochet. But with one of those under your belt, you might be surprised just how far it can take you. I’m an anxious learner, and I think I made two blankets, a scarf and some wrist warmers using only double crochet, before I starting experimenting with the other basic stitches. And the silliest thing is, once you’ve learned one basic stitch, all the others follow easily from it – so I don’t even know what I was afraid of!

In order to get you off to a more confident start in crochet than mine, I’m going to take you step-by-step through all the foundation techniques, starting with casting on, holding your hook and yarn, and making the basic crochet stitches. Then we’ll finish with a look at tension made simple, and how the basic stitches can be combined to achieve more advanced results.

To skip ahead to any one of those techniques, you can click on these links:

• Casting on (attaching your yarn to the hook)
• Different ways to grip your hook
• Holding the yarn
• Chain stitch
• Single crochet
• Half double crochet
• Double crochet
• Treble crochet
• Slip stitch and casting off
• Tension and gauge made easy
• What to try next

The basic crochet stitches

If you’re not sure where you want to start, here’s how 10 rows of 10 stitches looks in the 4 main crochet stitches:

As you can see, the stitches get taller as you progress from single to treble crochet. Since all four types of stitch are only joined to their neighbors at the top and bottom, fabric crocheted with tall stitches is lighter and more open. Short stitches have smaller spaces between them, so they’re warm, but fabric made from them is also stiffer and less drapey.

Casting on (attaching your yarn to the hook)

Casting on in crochet is as simple as making a slip stitch and putting it on your hook. If you’ve already got a preferred method for making a slip knot, that’s great. If not, here are two easy ways to do it:

1. Using your hook (the method I was taught)

• Using your dominant (writing) hand, hold the yarn in front of the first two fingers of your other hand, so the yarn end dangles down towards your lap.
• Hold the yarn in place with the thumb of your non-dominant hand, and wrap the yarn around your fingers once, so it makes two parallel lines on the backs of your fingers, and criss-crosses in front of them.
• Flip your hand over, so the backs of your fingers face upwards, and use your crochet hook to pull the loop of yarn nearest your wrist underneath the loop of yarn nearest your fingertips.
• Keep pulling, and a slip knot will form on your hook.

2. On your finger (the way Lucy uses)

• Wrap the yarn twice around the index finger of your non-dominant hand.
• Lift the inside loop (nearest your wrist) over the outside loop (nearest your finger tip), and put it down on your finger.
• Lift the new inside loop (previously the outside loop) over the new outside loop (previously the inside loop) and over the end of your finger.
• Pull the slip knot tight, remove your finger, and place the loop on your hook.

Different ways to grip your hook

Crochet hooks come in all shapes, sizes, and materials, including metal, plastic, wood and bamboo. Some of them have an ergonomic handle, and some just have a flattened section near the hooked end to give your thumb some traction. You’ll hold your hook in your dominant hand – the one you use to write with. There are a few ways to hold your hook, and it’s just a matter of experimenting to find the one that’s comfortable for you. Don’t worry if it all feels a bit awkward at first. Persevere and it will all come together!

The two most common ways people hold their crochet hook are the pencil grip and the knife grip. Don’t get stressed about choosing between them: have a go holding the hook both ways, and press ahead with whatever feels the least weird. You’ll find that your fingers unconsciously find their own way into a position that works for you, and don’t worry if it’s not an exact replica of the pictures coming up. As long as it suits you, that’s all that matters!

The pencil grip

The pencil grip (and the knife grip come to that) looks exactly how it sounds. Assuming you hold your pen or pencil in a fairly orthodox fashion, grab your crochet hook and hold it in the same way. Your thumb should be on the inside of the hook (the same side as the inner edge of the hooked end). Your index finger should be on the outside (the same side as the outer edge of the hooked end), just about opposite from your thumb. The tip or side of your middle finger also rests on the hook to stabilize and maneuver it, and your ring finger might rest on the hook too, if it usually does when you hold a pencil.

The knife grip

You’re never going to believe this, but the knife grip means holding your crochet hook… like a knife! The thumb and middle finger are in a similar position to the pen grip, but the forefinger is extended towards the hook end of the hook. As you can see, the main difference from pencil grip is that the hook’s handle is under my fingers, rather than poking out between my thumb and forefinger. Incidentally, this is how you’ll see me holding my hook in the videos coming up.

Holding the yarn

You’re going to hold your yarn in your non-dominant hand. This next action is going to become muscle memory really quickly, but it will probably feel a bit clumsy at first:

• Hold the hook in front of you in your dominant hand, so the yarn leading to the ball hangs down in front of you.
• Hook the pinky finger of your non-dominant hand behind the yarn and loop the yarn under the pinky, up in front of your ring and middle fingers, then behind your index finger.

Your hands should only be an inch or two apart. But just like holding the hook, it doesn’t matter if you hold the yarn slightly unconventionally, or have your hands a little wide, as long as you can move them in a smooth and even motion.

How to crochet chain stitch

Abbreviation: Ch or ch

Lots of crochet projects start with a foundation chain, so that’s where we’re going to start too. A foundation chain is simply lots of chain stitches made in a row, into which the first row of crochet stitches will be made. Chain stitch is about as simple as crochet gets too, so it’s the perfect place to get to grips with controlling your yarn and hook.

Here’s a video showing how it’s done, with written instructions and step-by-step photos after:

• Cast on with a slip knot, and get your hook and yarn in position.
• Use the middle finger and thumb of your yarn-holding-hand to pinch the slip knot or the yarn tail, and hold it steady.
• Loop the yarn over your hook, from back to front. Once you’re making this movement confidently, you’ll probably find you’re moving the yarn up and over a bit, and the hook down and under a bit (1). But don’t overthink how you get there at the moment – fluidity will come with repetition!

• Line up the hooked end of your crochet hook ready to catch the yarn (2).
• Pull the yarn through your slip knot (3). And that’s it – chain stitch complete (4).
• Put the yarn over the hook from front to back again, and pull another loop through the loop already on your hook. That’s two chain stitches.
• Keep practising, until you can make lots of evenly sized chain stitches in a steady motion.

Anatomy of a chain stitch

Before we forge ahead with putting some crochet stitches in our foundation chain, let’s examine her a bit more closely. I bet you think she looks boring, huh? Well you won’t be saying that when you’re trying to work out where your first stitch goes.

Each chain has three parts: a top front loop, a top back loop, and a back loop underneath.

For the majority of projects, you’ll work the first row of crochet into the top back loops only. That leaves the top front loops free for joining the bottom edge to another piece of crochet later. But some people like to make their first row of stitches into the back loops. It’s a bit fiddly, but it leaves both of the top loops free an extra-strong join later. Have a go at both and see what you prefer – for the rest of the examples here, I’m going to use the top back loops only, because I prefer that.

Turning chains

The next thing to get to grips with are turning chains. Turning chains are little groups of chain stitches at the beginning of every row. They create height for the crochet stitches that follow them.

• Single crochet needs 1 turning chain at the start of the row.
• Half double crochet needs 2 turning chains at the start of a row.
• Double crochet needs 2 or 3 turning chains. Three is traditional, but it’s increasingly common to find patterns which only call for two. All I can say is, experiment, and find what works for you! If your tension is naturally on the loose side, two might be enough, and three might look baggy. If your tension is tight, you might need three to get enough height.
• Treble crochet needs 3 or 4 turning chains. As for double crochet, either follow the instructions in the pattern, or experiment to see which gives the tidiest edges for you – it might vary according to the yarn and hook you’re using.

You’ll also need to add turning chains to the end of your foundation chain, before you make your first row. So if you want to make a double crochet scarf 30 stitches wide, you’ll need to start with a foundation chain of 32 or 33 stitches. If you’re following a pattern, the pattern writer will usually include the turning chains for the first row in the number of foundation chains they tell you to make.

How to single crochet

Abbreviation: Sc or sc

At last, it’s time for some actual crochet! Single crochet is the simplest crochet stitch, and the smallest. It’s the building block for amigurumi toys, and heavily employed for projects that need strong, dense fabric, like dish cloths, coasters and reusable face scrubbies. To make a little sample of single crochet:

• Make a foundation chain 11 stitches long (10 spaces for single crochet stitches + 1 turning chain).
• Skip the first chain stitch and insert the hook through the 2nd chain stitch from the hook (1 & 2). If you skipped ahead to get here, and now you’re not quite sure which bit of the chain stitch to insert the hook through, go back to anatomy of a chain stitch!

• Loop your yarn over the hook from back to front (3).
• Use the hook to pull that loop of yarn through the chain stitch. Keep it on the hook! You have two loops on your hook now (4).
• Loop your yarn over the hook from back to front again (5).
• Use the hook to pull that loop through both of the other loops (6). Your first single crochet is complete!

Here’s that process in video form (by the way, none of these videos have sound – don’t adjust your volume control!)

Make another single crochet into each of the 9 stitches remaining on your foundation chain. This first row will probably curl up in a corkscrew as you go, but don’t worry, it will straighten out when you make the second row. In fact making a single twisty row is a popular technique in amigurumi for adding details like hair or sheep wool! When you get to the end of the foundation chain, count your stitches to make sure you have as many as you expected – the last space on your foundation chain can be easy to miss!

Turning your work

Congratulations, you’ve made your first row of crochet stitches – you’re officially a crocheter! Next you’re going to turn your work, and make another row going back in the other direction.

• First, make a turning chain of one chain stitch.
• Turn the first row 180° counterclockwise. The working yarn should come down in front of your work you’ve done so far.

Which way you turn your work isn’t actually as important as being consistent and turning it the same way every time, but I’m adamant that turning it counterclockwise produces neater sides. To begin a new row, insert the hook under both top loops of the last stitch from the previous row, and then follow the steps to make a single crochet.

Don’t forget to make another turning chain at the end of the row before starting row 3!

Moving on

Now you’ve mastered the single crochet stitch, all the other stitches you’ll ever need are really easy to pick up! The basic stitch mechanics – putting the yarn over the hook, and drawing through loops – are the same for all crochet stitches. All that changes is how many yarn overs and drawing through loops you do, and in what order.

Half double crochet

Abbreviation: Hdc or hdc

Half double crochet is a little taller, and a fraction wider than single crochet. On its own it makes a soft, dense fabric that’s popular for hats and sweaters. To make a sample:

• Chain 12 (10 spaces for stitches, and 2 turning chains).
• Put the yarn over the hook from back to front.
• Insert the hook into the 3rd chain from the hook.
• Put the yarn over the hook again.
• Grab the yarn with the hook and draw a loop through the chain stitch. You’ll have 3 loops on your hook.
• Put the yarn over the hook again, and draw it through all 3 loops. Stitch complete!
• Repeat in the remaining 9 chains.

• Make 2 turning chains, and turn your work counterclockwise.
• To begin the next row, skip the 2 turning chains, and insert the hook under both top loops of the last stitch from the previous row. Complete the row as before.

Here’s a video of half double crochet in action:

You might have noticed in these videos that I use the forefinger of my hook-holding hand to pinch the yarn against the side of the hook during motions. This isn’t necessary, and I’m pretty sure it’s even considered bad form by some crocheters. But it’s how I’ve always done it! You don’t have to do it if you can manipulate the yarn confidently without doing it. It’s all about finding what works for you, so that crochet is fun for you.

Double crochet (dc)

Abbreviation: Dc or dc

Double crochet is an absolute workhorse of a crochet stitch. It’s what traditional granny squares are made out of, not to mention countless decorative stitches like ripple stitch and waffle stitch. It’s a stalwart of blankets, scarves, and clothes. Double crochet is roughly twice the height of single crochet, and the same width. Which is what makes it so popular – you’ll cover the same area in half as many stitches as would need to make using single crochet!

To make a swatch:

• Chain 12 or 13 (10 spaces for stitches, and 2 or 3 turning chains). I’m using two turning chains.
• Bring the yarn over the hook from back to front.
• Insert the hook into the 3rd chain from the hook (4th if you’re using 3 turning chains).
• Yarn over, and draw a loop through the chain stitch. Now you’ll have 3 loops on your hook in total.
• Yarn over, and draw it through 2 of the loops on your hook. 2 loops remaining on your hook.
• Yarn over, and draw it through both remaining loops.

Here’s a video of that in action:

And here’s how the first finished row will look:

To start the next row, make 2 or 3 turning chains, and turn your work 180° counterclockwise. Skip the turning chains, put the yarn over the hook, and insert the hook under the top loops of the last stitch from the previous row to begin your first stitch.

Treble crochet

Also known as: Triple crochet
Abbreviation: Tr or tr

Since double crochet is twice the height of single crochet, it’s going to come as no surprise to you that treble crochet is three times the height of single crochet. It’s a talllllll stitch! And as it’s so tall – and bearing in mind it’s only attached to its neighbors at the top and bottom – it’s also noticeably gappy between the stitches. The gaps make it a little less versatile than the other stitches we’ve looked at so far, but it’s vital for creating space in lacy crochet patterns.

Here’s how to make a sample. I’m going to mix things up and show you the video first this time!

• Chain 13 or 14 (10 spaces for stitches, and 3 or 4 turning chains). I’m using three turning chains.
• Put the yarn over the hook twice.
• Insert the hook into the 4th chain from the hook (5th if you’re using 4 turning chains).
• Yarn over the hook, and draw a loop through the chain stitch. Now you have 4 loops on your hook in total.
• Yarn over the hook again, and draw it through 2 of the loops on your hook. 3 loops remaining on your hook.
• Put the yarn over again, and draw it through the next 2 loops. 2 loops remaining on the hook.
• Yarn over the hook one last time, and draw it through those last two loops.

To add another row, make 3 or 4 turning chains, and turn your work 180° counterclockwise. Skip the turning chains, put the yarn over the hook twice, and insert the hook under the top loops of the last stitch from the previous row to begin your first stitch.

Slip stitching

We’ve looked at all the main stitches for building crochet now, but there’s one more nifty little stitch you ought to know about, and that’s slip stitch. Slip stitches are important for making little joins and connections in crochet patterns. For example, granny squares are worked outwards from the center, and the start and end of each round are joined with a slip stitch. You can also use a slip stitch to cast off and finish a piece of crochet.

Since slip stitches have barely any height or elasticity, it’s almost unheard of to use them in rows for making fabric. One notable exception is back loop only slip stitch ribbing.

Tension and gauge made easy

The chances are you won’t get far in your crochet journey before you start seeing references to tension and gauge. Put simply, gauge is how big your stitches are, usually described as how many rows and how many stitches fit into a 4″ x 4″ square. Things which affect gauge are:

• the thickness of the yarn,
• the size of the crochet hook,
• and your tension.

Your tension is how tightly you work. If your tension is tight, your stitches will come up small, and if you’ll need more stitches and rows to make a 4″ square. If your tension is loose, your stitches will come up big, and you’ll need fewer stitches to make a 4″ square. Most importantly, tension is very personal, and variable. I tend to crochet loose, but my tension gets tighter if I’m stressed!

For lots of beginner patterns like blankets, bags, scarves and stretchy hats, tension and gauge aren’t a big deal, and your pattern might not even mention them. But for garments like sweaters, achieving the gauge specified by the pattern is vital for getting the size right! To achieve that, make a swatch using the same number of stitches and rows as the pattern say should fit in a 4″ square. If it comes up bigger than 4×4″, try again with a smaller hook. If it comes up smaller, try again with a larger hook. Simple!

What to try next

The simple stitches we’ve covered here today don’t just have to be used on their own. They can be combined in infinite ways to make produce decorative textures like:

Linen stitch

Feather stitch

Bean and mini bean stitch

Shell stitch

Ripple and wave stitches

Not to mention cute amigurumi critters!

In other words, the crochet world is your oyster now, so get stuck in and have fun!

The post Basic Crochet Techniques and Stitches appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Cotton yarn has a varied reputation.

If you’re new to crochet you’d be forgiven for being completely confused by the mixed messages you get when you research crocheting with cotton yarn. You’ll hear people simultaneously calling it soft and hard, tough and prone to splitting, easy to machine wash and likely to leach dye when wet.

It can be hard to push through the conflicting information, to find the truth. But the fact is that there is so much conflict in these pieces of information, because there is a bit of truth to them all. It just depends on a few factors.

There are a number of different cotton yarns on the market, and most are actually better described as cotton blends. They combine cotton fibers with acrylic, silk or even wool fibers. As a general rule of thumb, the higher the percentage of cotton the stronger, but also rougher, the yarn will be.

The DO’s

DO Check the texture

Cotton yarns vary quite a lot in terms of how they feel, but they are more likely to be rough and hard than some other fibers. If you are someone who finds the texture of some yarns offputting like me, then make sure to test the yarn before you buy it.

Run your hands over the skein, and if possible run a strand of yarn back and forth between your fingers. If you already own the yarn, make up a little swatch of a few stitches and rub it gently on your face too. If you don’t like the feel, then it isn’t the cotton yarn for you!

DO Inspect for splitting and fluffy patches

The two main complaints I hear about quality when it comes to cotton yarn regard splitting and fluffing.

Interestingly, for me personally the splitting problem is a much more common one. I get around this by really closely inspecting the yarn, visually and if appropriate with a couple of simple tests. I gently tug the yarn strand a few times, and then rub down the sides of the strand to see if the fibers easily separate.

DO Use an ergonomic hook

Cotton yarns are strong and fairly rigid, which means that they have less give and elasticity. This makes them great for projects that require strength, but it also means that they are harder to work. You’ll need to put more physical effort into your tension, hold and hooking with cotton yarn, so to mitigate this make sure you use an ergonomic hook that supports your hand a little more.

DO Double check your throat

The throat of your hook, I’m sure your own throat is fine!

This is important because a hook that has little burrs in the throat can catch on the yarn and make it more likely to break. It also totally impedes your enjoyment of crocheting with it, because it keeps catching so you need to stop hooking!

DO Use it for structural projects

Because it’s strong and doesn’t stretch, this material is ideal for structured and weight carrying projects. I often use it for bags, and it holds up really well to plenty of practical uses. No dropping your shopping all over the floor or changing the shape of the bag when you carry something a bit heavy!

DO Take account of the yarn’s weight

The flip side of being strong is the weight that comes with it. Cotton yarn is heavier per stitch than acrylic or wool equivalents. This means it is yarn hungry in terms of how many skeins you’ll need, and that your finished project will have some extra weight to it.

I’ve got a beautiful granny square blanket that I made with cotton blend yarn, and it weighs considerably more than any of my equally sized acrylic afghans.

DO Use it for coasters or mats

As yarn fibers go, this one is probably the most likely to stand up well again heat. This makes it ideal for producing coasters, mats or dishcloths.

DO Use if you want good stitch definition

The rigid nature of this yarn makes it ideal for projects where you want good stitch definition. It’s a popular choice for amigurumi for this reason.

DO Check the cotton proportion

I have cotton blends ranging everywhere from 50% to 100% cotton. Most of mine are combined with silk, but others mix with acrylic instead. The balance and type of fibers make a big difference to how the yarn performs when you crochet it.

DO Check and record your dye lot

This matters for every single yarn you’ll ever buy, but it’s always worth mentioning. When you start a project, note down the dye lot of your skein. You’ll be so relieved if you need a little more to know what the exact match needs to be.

DO Consider your budget

Cotton yarn is one of the most expensive fibers to crochet with. Prices vary of course, and some very cheap cotton yarns will be lower cost than some of the most expensive acrylics, but as a general rule you’ll still pay more for cotton.

If you are on a very tight budget, it might be worth considering whether it’s worth the extra cash for cotton or whether a cheaper fiber will do the job just as well for your planned project.

DO Consider bamboo as an alternative

If you are worried about the environmental impact of cotton production then bamboo is probably the closest like for like substitute. However, in my opinion all the bamboo yarns I’ve tried magnify the downsides of cotton in terms of texture.

The DON’T’s

DON’T Assume you can stretch it out

There is very little give to cotton yarn. THis means that if you miss or add a stitch by accident it’ll show more on your finished project than it might if you were working in another fiber. It also means that the shape you crochet is more static. Blocking or stretching won’t go as far as it does for other yarn types.
Be aware of this when making garments especially.

DON’T Forget to check the washing instructions

Cotton yarn usually holds up well to washing, but it can still vary from skein to skein, especially if it’s a cotton acrylic blend. Make sure you are washing it on a heat that is approved by the manufacturer.

DON’T Wash with different colors

And consider washing it only with similar colors, because it is one of the yarn types that is most widely reported as bleeding dye when it’s cleaned.

DON’T Be careless with your tension

Due to the nature of the fibers, you need to have a little more focus and control on your tension than you might with other yarns. Variations in tension show up more, in my experience.

The post Crocheting with Cotton Yarn appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Poor yarn storage leads to so many missed opportunities, and in the worse case scenario can even damage your yarn too!

The right yarn storage system can totally revolutionize how you experience crocheting as a hobby. Which sounds completely over the top, but stick with me for a moment.

Ever since I started thinking before I store my yarn rather than just chucking it wherever feels convenient in the moment, I’m not only having more of a fun and relaxed time crocheting, but I’m making much quicker and easier progress with my designs for new amigurumi projects too.

The DO’s

DO Have a system

Don’t just throw your yarn into whichever box, drawer or space on the floor is available. Have a firm, decisive system for how you are going to keep your stash under control.

DO Use your system

This subsection is basically the entire story of my life. I am great at making systems, but less adequate when it comes to actually using them. The floor is closer, am I right? But please do as I now try very hard to do as well as say, and use this system once it’s in place.

DO Make sure it’s big enough

Be realistic with yourself. We all love a big clear out and a downsize, but you want your yarn storage to actually fit all the yarn you are realistically going to be ramming into it

DO Use something easily accessible

If you make your storage solution too complicated, you won’t use it. Well, maye you will, but I know I won’t. I have to keep it simple in order for it to actually function. Over complicated storage that involves locks, little doors, perfect accessories for every part, might sound gorgeous. But will you use it? Unlikely.

DO Consider Shelving

After a decade of trying various ways to store my stash, I’m really sold on shelving. It’s so versatile, there are numerous options for different spaces and budgets. But it’s also just really easy to keep tidy and to actually use. You are unlikely to drop your ball of yarn onto the floor or shove it in a corner if all you have to do is pop it onto a shelf.

DO Label opened skeins

When you peel the paper off your new skein of yarn, make a quick note on a scrap of paper to say what the brand and color shades are, and ideally the dye lot too. Use a paper clip, safety pin or stitch marker to peg the note onto the skein so that you can keep track of what it is!

DO Sort by weight

I always sort my yarn by weight first, but it dictates the hook size and has the biggest bearing on what project I use it for. That’s why my yarn is primarily stored by the thickness of the strand before anything else.

THEN sort by fiber

The yarn fiber is my secondary consideration, because this again impacts on the projects I choose it for. I try to loosely keep my acrylics together and my cottons blends together, and this works well for me because I have a few go-to brands that I can keep in the same place.

THEN sort by color

Although I love the look of yarn stored entirely by color, it’s actually not practical to do so as a priority over the thickness and fiber. A gorgeous yarny rainbow is a fabulous thing, but it’s not going to help me put together my designs and that’s why this is a later consideration and not an earlier one despite the happy aesthetics.

DO Store scraps separately

Yarn scraps, in my view, shouldn’t be stored with the rest of your yarn.

By yarn scraps I mean small pieces of yarn that are big enough to make up extra filling in a toy or add a detail to an amigurumi face, but not large enough to make up a partial skein.

I keep my rather embarrassingly large collection of scraps in two big plastic boxes with closed lids. They come in handy a lot, but are never going to look pretty or store neatly on a shelf!

The DON’Ts

DON’T Keep yarn you won’t use

We’ve all bought, or been given, gorgeous skeins or yarn that we will absolutely never use. Either because they are not a yarn weight we have a project for, or they are a texture we don’t get along with. I also have some beautifully home dyed yarns that are gorgeous on the ball, but I have literally no idea what I’d make with. I am predominantly an amigurumi person, these stunning gradiented skeins just don’t fit with my plans.

I understand, and fall prey to, the inclination to keep these balls of yarn, but they take up space and create clutter unnecessarily. Try to donate or sell them, if you know in your heart you’re never going to use them.

DON’T Ignore your own storage system

Once you’ve got a system, then please do use it. Don’t be like me in the past, and slowly slide into ignoring it and dropping things wherever is convenient in the moment.

You’ve got this clever solution, it’s going to make your life easier if you just take an extra few moments to implement it.

DON’T Store yarn with other things

I try really hard to keep yarn storage areas for yarn only. It looks messy so quickly if you include other stuff, and honestly it becomes a bit of a risk for snagging and tangling too if you mix in your other kit or unfinished projects with it.

The post Yarn Storage Do’s and Don’ts appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

I still have a number of crochet toys around the house that I made over a decade ago. Some of them have spent most of that time on my daughter’s bed, or stuffed into an overflowing drawer.

The older the toy, the most likely they are to have at some point needed a quick limb reattachment. But it’s not just because of their relative age, it’s because over the years I’ve improved a lot at sewing my amigurumi together. I’ve refined what techniques work, and added in some additional steps to give more strength and a more reliable join.

Today I’m going to run through my current process for sewing crochet toys together, so that you can keep create amigurumi plushies that are as likely to stay in one piece as possible.

The DO’s

DO Follow the instructions

I can’t say this enough. If you are following a crochet toy pattern and it includes sewing instructions, then obey those instructions. The artist who made your toy might well have designed them to sit in a certain position, or to have a particular pose, which will be enhanced by following their stitching guide.

DO Stuff to match your sewing

Some areas of your crocheted toy will be best sewn flat, others will need to be sewn padded. It depends on the look you are going for. Think carefully about how raised you want that area to be, and fill according to how you want to sew.

DO Consider position and posture

Before you begin to sew, think carefully about how you want your finished toy to be positioned. My favorite pose for crochet toys is probably seated, but for my more natural designs I like to have them standing upright which requires a different positioning of the legs for example.

DO Pin before you tack

Once you are happy with the pose, pin it in place. You can use standard pins, but I also make use of extra long ones for secure positioning, as well as safety pins or locking stitch markers to hold the limbs in place when I need to.

DO Tack before you sew

Once it’s pinned, I loosely sew the pieces together. The initial run of stitches goes along the central point between the two parts, and is mostly to secure them exactly where I want them before the pins come out.

DO Keep stitches tight

The final stitches need to be tight and go around the circumference of the joined position twice ideally. Keep the stitches close together, weaving in and out of each stitch at the points you want them to touch.

DO Use a thin needle

I always use the thinnest possible need that I can for sewing. This means that the needle width is dictated by being able to bring the yarn through the eye of the needle, but beyond that I just want the slimmest possible one. This is because the wider the needle is, the most risk there is of distorting the crocheted stitches when I sew.

DO Consider a tapestry needle for tight spaces

Where the join point is limited or the pieces are small, a tapestry needle is the best tool for the job. These slanted needles come in and out of the stitches more easily, without the needle to pull at the crocheted fabric or push too hard with the point.

DO Use a metal needle

Personally, I always join my toys with a metal needle. Plastic needles are fine for lots of jobs in the crochet world, but sewing toys together is easiest with metal. Steel needles are less likely to have burrs on them, and therefore to catch on the yarn and create pulls.

The DON’Ts

DON’T Scrimp on the yarn

Make sure that you have plenty of yarn for sewing and to leave a hefty loose end afterwards. Not only will this mean you are sure to have enough to secure the parts as much as you’d like, but that you have plenty of excess to hide inside the toy when you’re done. Something you will hopefully not need in the future for repairs, but will be very grateful of having if you do!

DON’T Use the same yarn for plush toys

Most of my projects are made in acrylic or cotton blend yarn, but for plush patterns you might want to consider joining your parts with a yarn that doesn’t match your project. This is because although plush yarn looks thick, it’s actually only got a very fine central strand. It’s hard to work in and out of existing stitches, and rather prone to snapping.
You will find that as long as you use a slightly thinner yarn weight, the joining strand is well hidden within the fluffy tendrils of your chenille yarn regardless.

DON’T Be afraid to undo and start again

Finally, it’s really important to remember that very little in crochet is set in stone. If it goes wrong, if it doesn’t look right, or if you are just not happy with your sewing, you can always snip it off and start again.

The post 15 Amigurumi Sewing Do’s and Don’ts appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Stuffing your crochet toys can make or break the finished project. I know the first few times I filled a toy with stuffing I made some rather big mistakes. Initially I filled on far too far, with the stitches bulging and stuffing poking up the gaps. But then in response the next time I used far too little, and it appeared more deflated balloon than cute cuddly toy.

Over a decade of crocheting has taught me how important it is to stuff your amigurumi the right way, and today I’m going to share some simple tips that should help you to successfully fill your crochet plushies up perfectly every time.

The DON’Ts

DON’T Understuff

Under stuffing is so easy to do, and it can feel like a bit of a better safe than sorry solution. But not filling the shape you’ve crocheted enough means it won’t hold the shape you’ve created. It will flop over and distort.
If you can press your finger and thumb together and clearly feel your digits together without padding in the way through your toy, you haven’t got enough stuffing in.

DON’T Overstuff

Overstuffing is just as bad on the distortion front, and worse in terms of visual noise. You will be able to see the stuffing poking through the stretched stitches.
Your stitches should look the same size and spacing after you’ve stuffed it as they did before. Any stretching out or gaping, and it’s too full.

DON’T Just fill with yarn scraps

Yarn scraps can be a great addition to toy stuffing, but they rarely make a good stuffing by themselves.

DON’T Forget to stuff before you close

It sounds obvious, but we’ve all been there. More than once over the past decade I’ve closed the shape I was making without putting an ounce of stuffing inside.
Don’t worry if this has happened though, just carefully unpick the closed point and fill it up from there. At most usually you need to undo a round or two.

DON’T Panic

Stuffing is something that can totally change the outcome of a project, but it’s also something that is relatively easy to fix when it goes wrong. So don’t panic!

The DO’s

DO Check the filling instructions

If you are following a pattern, they will give you instructions on stuffing. Some will be vague, just writing fill now, others will give more exact details. They might tell you how to spread out the padding, or where to fill up to and how full to make it.
If the details are given, then follow them and trust the pattern.

DO Add toy filling in small pieces not one large wad

I initially used to fill toys by pushing in as much padding at a time as I could. This wasn’t the best way. The ideal is to tear off little pieces, the size of a cotton wool ball, and place them in one at a time.

DO Spread stuffing it out evenly

Unless the instructions say otherwise, space the wadding evenly within the structure. I start from the furthest point, then fill around the sides, and finally fill the center. This tends to give the best even distribution.

DO Try different stuffing materials

I tend to use toy safe stuffing for most of my amigurumi, and if they are being kept by me or my kids I’ll fill the central section with yarn scraps or other recycled padding like leftover cushion padding or duvet filler. Scraps from clothing can also make good additional toy stuffing, provided you cut it into fairly fine strips first.

DO Think about the end user

But, a caveat to using random stuffing material is you need to think about whose going to use or own your crochet toy when it’s finished. If you are selling it then I’d use a padding that is certified toy safe only, the same if you are gifting it to a young child where there is the small risk of a choke hazard.

DO Consider using tights/stockings to hold the stuffing

If your stitches are too loose and your project is completed aside from the stuffing, then you can fill the toy inside some old stockings or tights instead of abandoning the piece and starting again.
Next time, try to tighten up your tension and check that you aren’t accidentally making a taller stitch than you need too. This can sometimes happen with the confusion between the US and UK crochet terms.

DO Use a tool if you can’t reach easily

Some areas of toys are harder to fill than others. For long skinny limbs I use the handle end of a crochet hook, but it’s also been suggested to me that a chopstick can do the job well too, which I think sounds very helpful too!

DO Take the posture of the toy into account

Some areas of your toy will need to be more filled with padding than others. Any supporting structures like necks will need to be filled more generously than those which don’t play a structural role.

DO Look at it when you’re done

Before you close your piece, hold it out in front of you and take a look from a variety of angles. Make sure you are happy with the shape. At this point it’s easy to remove or add wadding if you have to.

DO Finish carefully

Sew and tie off securely, and weave in a long tail when you’re done. I recommend leaving a good couple of feet of loose tail, this will ensure you have plenty for sewing and makes it less of a frustrating situation if you do need to open it back up again at some point.

The post 15 Amigurumi Stuffing Do’s and Don’ts – Beginner Crochet Tips appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

What do you think of this squishy crochet mouse pattern? Just like a real mouse, it’s cute as heck, but unlike most real mice it’s cuddly too! But my own personal favorite thing is how quickly it comes together in just a few simple shapes. I’ve made it with super bulky chenille yarn, so it’s extra soft and squashy, and big enough for my daughter to enjoy as a plush toy. But you could make it from lighter weight chenille yarn, and I’ve got notes to help you achieve the best results.

Materials

To make a mouse just like mine, you’ll need:

• Super bulky chenille yarns in light brown and pale pink. I’ve used Cygnet’s Jellybaby yarn in teddy bear, and Hobbii’s Toucan yarn in light pink. You could swap out the light brown yarn for pale gray or even white if you prefer.
• A small quantity of black yarn. I’ve used super bulky chenille again, but you could use almost any black yarn from your stash and double it up if necessary.
• A J-10 (6mm) crochet hook.
• Stitch markers. Or scraps of yarn in a contrasting color.
• ⅝ inch (16mm) safety eyes.
• A darning needle.
• Hi-loft, toy safe stuffing.

To make a smaller mouse, match a lighter weight chenille yarn with a crochet hook one size smaller than the yarn wrapper recommends. Using a small hook produces tight fabric which you can stuff firmly later with out little gaps opening up between the stitches. For the finest yarns, you’ll also need to use smaller safety eyes. Here’s (roughly!) how tall your mouse will turn out using different yarn weights, and what size eyes to use:

Pattern notes

I’ve written this pattern in standard American crochet terms. It uses almost entirely single crochet, with just a small number of longer stitches in the tail. The stitches and their abbreviations I’ve used are:

Ch chain stitch
Sl st slip stitch
Sc single crochet
Sc blo single crochet in the back loop only
Hdc half double crochet
Dc double crochet
Inc increase (make 2 single crochets in the same space)
Dec decrease

• Insert your hook into the front loop only of the next two stitches (fig. 1).
• Yarn over and pull through a loop. There are now two loops on the hook.
• Yarn over again, and draw through both loops (fig. 2).

Squishy crochet mouse pattern

This mouse is mostly body. Or giant head, depending on how you look at it! So let’s start there.

Body

Start your mouse’s body with either a magic circle, or by making 4 chain stitches and joining them in a circle with a slip stitch. Either method will work, but I find with fluffy chenilles the 4-ch loop is easier to tighten without snapping the yarn.

• 1st round: Ch 1, sc 8 into the magic circle or 4-ch loop, catching the yarn tail under the stitches as you go (8 sts). Gently pull the yarn tail to tighten the hole.
• 2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)
• 3rd round: *1 sc, inc* 8 times (24 sts)
• 4th round: *2 sc, inc* 8 times (32 sts)
• 5th round: *3 sc, inc* 8 times (40 sts)
• Rounds 6 – 23: Sc all the way round
• 24th round: 3 dec, sc 8, 6 dec, 8 sc, 3 dec (28 sts)
• 25th round: 3 dec, sc 2, 6 dec, 2 sc, 3 dec (16 sts)
• Put a stitch marker into the loop on your hook, and cut your yarn leaving a 24 inch tail.

Adding the eyes

Spread the body out flat in front of you. Since the decreases at the bottom of the body are bunched up, it will only lie flat with the decreases at the sides, giving you a distinct front and back.

Insert the safety eyes through the front of the body, about 7 or 8 stitches apart between rows 11 and 12. Obviously the aim is to get them as evenly positioned either side of the center line as possible, but it doesn’t matter if one eye is a stitch out, if it makes the spacing between them more appealing.

When you’re confident with the position of the eyes, press the backs on firmly.

Closing the body

Before you close the body, stuff it firmly with toy safe stuffing. Then put the last stitch from round 25 onto your hook and make one more round:

• 26th round: 8 dec, sl st (8 sts)

Poke in a little more stuffing if it will fix, then thread the remaining yarn tail onto a darning needle and sew the remaining hole closed. It’s not too important how you sew it closed exactly, but for the neatest result, you can’t beat using mattress stitch through the front loops only. The first picture below shows where the stitches go. Then pinch the beginning of the seam firmly with one hand, and pull the yarn tail firmly in the other direction with the other. The join should zip right up!

Adding the face

Here’s where we’re at so far:

To make a cute little button nose, grab your black yarn and start with a either a magic circle or a 3-ch loop (that’s not a typo – 3 chains, not 4!). Into the loop, sc 3, and sl st. Cut the yarn leaving a 12” tail and pull the tail right through the slip stitch.

Position the top of the nose about level with the center of the eyes, and sew it in place. Use the remaining yarn tail to embroider a mouth, then poke what’s left of it inside the body.

Finally, use some of your pink yarn to give your mouse long, translucent-looking whiskers (or skip to the end of the pattern to see how they’d look in white!). I started mine by pushing the darning needle into the back of the body, and right through to the front, at a spot just next to the nose. Then I made three whiskers on either side of the nose, and after the last whisker I pushed the needle right through to the back of the body again – coming out at the same place I went in earlier. Then I knotted the yarn tails together, trimmed them short, and poked the knot inside the body. The stuffing will keep it anchored in place.

The ears

With your pink yarn, make a magic circle or 4-chain loop.

• 1st round: Ch 1, then catching the yarn tail under your stitches, sc 8 into the magic circle or 4-ch loop (8 sts). Gently pull the yarn tail to tighten the center of the ear.
• 2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)
• 3rd round: *1 sc, inc* 8 times (24 sts)

In the first stitch of round 4, change color back to brown:

Insert the hook into the next stitch and draw through a loop of pink yarn.
Pick up the brown yarn and put it over the hook from back to front, then pull a loop of the brown yarn through both pink loops. Cut the pink yarn leaving a 3” tail, and continue with the brown yarn.

• 4th round: *2 sc, inc* 8 times (32 sts)
• Pause and tie the pink and brown yarn ends together, then trim them to about an inch long.
• 5th round: Sc blo all the way round (32 sts)
• 6th round: *2 sc, dec* 8 times (24 sts)
• 7th round: *1 sc, dec* 8 times (16 sts)
• 8th round: 8 dec, sl st (8 sts)

Cut the yarn leaving a 8” yarn tail, and sew the remaining hole closed using the mattress stitch technique above. Repeat the whole process to make a second ear.

Then, using a doubled-up length of brown yarn, sew the ears onto the top of the head. If you have some knitting needles, skewers, or chopsticks to hand, they’re really useful for holding the ears in position while you sew. Just insert them through the top of the ear and right down into the body. I use two for each ear, so the ear can’t spin around.

Tail time

My mouse’s finishing touch is his tail.

1. Using the pink yarn, make a slip knot with a 12” tail for joining to the body later.
2. Ch 18
3. Sk 1, sl st, sc, hdc, dc 14.
4. Cut the yarn leaving an 8” tail. Put the yarn tail onto a darning needle, then thread it through the last loop on your hook, to stop the stitches unravelling.
5. Fold the tail in half lengthways, with the backs of the stitches facing outwards. Whip stitch each of the chain stitches from step 2 to the top of their corresponding stitch in step 3, to make a long tube which tapers to a point at the end.
6. Thread any remaining yarn tail down inside the tail to hide it, then use the yarn tail from step 1 to attach the tail to the body.

Squishy crochet mouse complete

And here it is!

A day or so after finishing my mouse, I decided to see how he’d look with white whiskers instead. I think either works, and my camera really isn’t capturing much difference at all! I do slightly prefer the contrast of the white in real life, but if you don’t already have white and you don’t want to buy a whole ball just for this project, the pink totally works, and the pared back color palette is pretty effective in it’s own way. Here’s pink on the left, and white on the right (you’ll kind of have to take my word for it!)

Whatever fur color and whisker color you chose, and whatever size you make it in, I hope you have lots of fun with this pattern. And don’t forget to make him a cute puppy or adorable frog pal now too!

Happy crocheting!

The post Squishy Crochet Mouse Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Hello and welcome to my squishy crochet frog pattern. Well I suppose since he’s dry and bumpy rather than smooth and shiny he’s really a squishy crochet toad pattern. But then again he has a goofy smile and no back legs, so maybe it’s not the time for getting hung up on accuracy! This simple amigurumi project is fast, and lots of fun to make. I’ll take you through the steps with the help of lots of photos, so even if you’re new to crochet you’ll be cuddling your own frog in no time!

Materials

To make your own cuddly frog, you’ll need:

• Super bulky chenille yarn for the body, eyes, arms, and tummy patch. I used King Cole Yummy yarn in green, and Cygnet Jellybaby yarn in teddy, which is a pale brown. The eyes and tummy patch would also look fantastic in yellow or lighter green. I only chose brown because I already had it in my stash and I was impatient to starting developing the pattern without having to go to the store first!
• A small quantity of black yarn for the mouth. I used bulky chenille again, but almost any black yarn would work.
• Size J (6mm) crochet hook
• Stitch markers or scraps of yarn
• ⅝” (16mm) safety eyes
• 2oz (55g) toy safe stuffing
• Darning needle

You could also make this pattern using lighter weight chenille yarn, with an appropriately sized hook and smaller safety eyes for pupils. My frog is about 7″ tall, but with bulky yarn he’d be 6″ tall, worsted yarn he’d be 5″ tall, and DK yarn he’d be 4″ tall. I haven’t had a chance to test whether the eyes and arms would be as effective in non-chenille yarns yet – let me know in the comments if you try it!

Squishy crochet frog pattern

I’ve written this pattern in standard U.S. crochet terms. The stitches and their abbreviations you’ll need to know are:

Ch chain
Sl st slip stitch
Sc single crochet
Inc increase (make 2 single crochets in the same space)
Hdc half double crochet
Hdc-inc half double crochet increase (make 2 half double crochets in the same space)
Dc double crochet
Dec decrease (see below)

Decreasing in amigurumi

For your decreases, I recommend using the invisible decrease method, because it does exactly what it says in the name! If you haven’t tried it before, it goes like this:

1. Insert the hook through the front loops only of the next two stitches (below left).
2. Draw through a loop of yarn (two loops remaining on the hook).
3. Yarn over the hook and draw through both loops (below right).

Decrease complete!

The body

Using your green yarn:

Ch 4 and sl st into the furthest stitch to join.
1st round: Ch 1, sc 8 into the magic circle or 4-ch loop (8 sts)
2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)
3rd round: *1 sc, inc* 8 times (24 sts)
4th round: *2 sc, inc* 8 times (32 sts)
5th round: *3 sc, inc* 8 times (40 sts)
Rounds 6 – 20: Sc all the way round
21st round: 3 dec, sc 8, 6 dec, 8 sc, 3 dec (28 sts)
22nd round: 3 dec, sc 2, 6 dec, 2 sc, 3 dec (16 sts)

Stuff the body firmly with toy safe stuffing.

23rd round: 8 dec, sl st (8 sts)

Cut the yarn leaving a 8” tail. Poke in a bit more stuffing if it will fit, then sew the remain stitches closed using mattress stitch.

If you haven’t used mattress stitch before, it’s really handy for closing the body and eyes of your frog neatly. Each stitch goes through the front loops only of round 23, following the order in the first picture below. Make the stiches loosely at first (second picture) then pull them tight one at a time, or hold the start firmly and pull the yarn tail in the opposite direction (third picture).

Belly patch

Using your brown, yellow or lighter green yarn:

Ch 4 and sl st into the furthest stitch to join.
1st round: Ch 1, sc 8 into the magic circle or 4-ch loop (8 sts)
2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)
3rd round: Sl st, sc, hdc-inc, hdc, inc, sc 2, inc 2, sc 2, inc, hdc, hdc-inc, sc, sl st (22 sts)
4th round: Sl st 3, inc, hdc-inc 2, *sc, inc* 5 times, sc, hdc-inc 2, inc, sl st 2 (33 sts)

Cut the yarn leaving a long tail (about 18”) for sewing. Pull the yarn tail right through the last slip stitch.

Now grab the body again. Since the decreases at the base are bunched up at the sides, the front and back of the body should be distinctly flattened (there’s no difference between them – you choose which is which!) Position the belly patch in the center of the front of the front of the body, lining the bottom edge up with about round 19 or 20 on the body. Sew it in place using the yarn tail – for the neatest result pick up two stitches at a time from the edge of the belly patch, through the back loops only (as in the photo below).

Making the eyes

Starting with your contrast color yarn (brown, yellow or green):

Ch 4 and sl st into the furthest stitch to join.
1st round: Ch, 8 sc into the 4-ch loop (8 sts)
2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)

In the next round, change color to green during the first single crochet:

• Insert yarn into the next stitch and draw through a loop of brown yarn.
• Loop the green yarn over you hook from back to front, and draw it through both brown loops on the hook.
• Cut the brown yarn leaving a short tail, and knot the green and brown yarn tails together tightly.

Joining the eyes to the body

Position the eyes on top of the head so the gap between them at the narrowest point is between half an inch and an inch. There’s going to be an obvious place on the front of the eyes where the yarn color changes to green. It doesn’t matter where this goes, as long as it’s at the same position on both eyes – you can see I’ve positioned it at roughly 2 o’clock.

An optional but handy way to hold them in place while you sew is by pushing two double-ended knitting needles, mattress needles, or metal chopsticks through the top of the eye and down into the body (using two stops the eye spinning). You could even use two handle-less crochet hooks, but be very careful how you remove them!

Sew around the perimeter where the eye meets the body using more green yarn, and hide the yarn ends inside the body.

Making the arms

Making fiddly tubular limbs is my least favorite part of amigurumi, which is why my squishy designs don’t usually have them! But these cute little forearms are made slightly differently – and they’re very fast to whip up!

Foundation chain: Using your green yarn, ch 8.
1st row: Sk 2, dc 6.
2nd row: Fold the row of stitches into a tube lengthways. Starting with the dc nearest the hook, insert the hook through the unused loop of the foundation chain at the bottom of the stitch and through the top loops of the dc. Yarn over and pull through all three loops to make a slip stitch. Sl st 5 more times along the rest of the row to close the sides of the tube. How tight you make these stitches will determine how much the arms curve – for straight arms, tug through a little yarn after each slip stitch.
To make the fingers: *Ch 3, skip the 1st chain from hook, single crochet once into each of the two remaining chains, sl st into the end of the arm (exactly where isn’t important)* three times. Cut the yarn leaving a 12” tail, and thread the yarn tail up through the arm and out of the shoulder for sewing to the body later. Weave in the tail from the beginning of the foundation chain.

The second arm

Only if the first arm you made is curved, make the second arm like this (otherwise repeat the steps above for a second straight arm):

Foundation chain: Using your green yarn, make a slip knot with a 24” yarn tail, then using the yarn on the skein-side of the knot, ch 8.
1st row: Sk 2, dc 6.
2nd row: Fold the row of stitches into a tube lengthways. Starting with the dc nearest the hook, insert the hook through the unused loop of the foundation chain at the bottom of the stitch and through the top loops of the dc. Yarn over and pull through all three loops to make a slip stitch. Sl st 5 more times along the rest of the row, aiming for the same tightness as before, so achieve a matching curve. Cut the yarn, leaving a short tail for weaving in later.
To make the fingers: Using the yarn 24” yarn tail from step 1, *ch 3, skip the 1st chain from hook, single crochet once into each of the two remaining chains, sl st into the end of the arm (exactly where isn’t important)* three times. Thread the yarn tail up through the arm and out of the shoulder for sewing to the body later. Weave in the tail from the end of step 3.

Join the arms to the body using the yarn tails, a couple of rounds up the body from the top of the belly, and about in line with the outside edge of the eyes.

Embroider the mouth

Finally, thread about 18″ of black yarn onto a darning needle – I’ve used 36″ and doubled it up for extra impact. Push the needle through between two stiches on the back of the body, through to the front. Pull the yarn through until there’s tail about 3″ sticking out from the back of the body. Embroider the mouth using back stitch and the grid in the body stiches as a guide. At the end of the the final stitch, push the needle out through the same place as the yarn tail on the back of the body. Tie the two tails together, trim the excess yarn, and poke the knot inside the body to hide it.

Done!

Your amphibian amigurumi is complete! I hope you enjoyed making it and you’re completely charmed by the results. For some more unusual animal projects, check out Lucy’s gecko, manatee and puffer fish patterns!

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How cute is this squishy crochet puppy? He’s a fun, beginner-friendly alternative to making a puppy pattern with separate head, body and leg parts. But he’s just as appealing and cuddly! I’ve made him with bulky chenille yarn to really make him as squashy and irresistible as possible. But the pattern is just as effective in lighter weight and/or smoother yarns, and I’ve got tips for making him in different sizes, as well as lots of photos of the techniques involved.

You’ll need

The materials I used to make this puppy are:

• Super bulky chenille yarn in white and brown. I used Cygnet Jellybaby yarn in the shades white and moose.
• A small quantity of black yarn for the nose and mouth.
• Size J (6mm) crochet hook.
• Stitch markers (or scraps of yarn will do)
• ⅝” (16mm) safety eyes.
• Toy safe stuffing (approx 2oz, or 55g).

My plushy is about 7” tall. If you want to use a lighter weight yarn, you’ll need to choose a smaller crochet hook to match, and your puppy will turn out smaller. I recommend using a hook one size smaller than the yarn wrapper recommends, to create a dense fabric that doesn’t allow the stuffing to peep through.

You’ll also need to use smaller safety eyes with some yarns, to keep the proportions right:

• With dk, aran and worsted yarns, use 12mm eyes. You plushy will turn out 4-5” tall.
• For bulky yarns, 16mm eyes will still work. Your plushy will turn out about 6″ tall.

Squishy crochet puppy pattern

This pattern is written in standard U.S. crochet terms. You’ll only need to know a small number of very basic stitches:

Ch chain
Sl st slip stitch
Sc single crochet
Inc increase (make 2 sc in the same space)
Dec decrease

Round 1

To start, grab your brown yarn and either make a magic circle, or chain 4 and slip stitch into the furthest stitch from the hook to make a loop. If you’re using a fluffy yarn like me, I find a 4-chain loop is easier to tighten later without snapping the yarn.

1st round: Ch 1, and sc 8 into your magic circle or 4-ch loop (8 sts).

Round 2

2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts).

Rounds 3 – 14

Rounds 3 – 15 are worked in a combination of brown and white yarn. You can approach this in a couple of different ways:

1. Cut the yarn every time you change color, then tie the yarn ends together later.
2. Carry the yarn you’re not using behind the yarn you are using. If you choose this option, you’ll need to catch the floating strand of the yarn you’re not using every 4 or 5 stitches. If that’s a technique you haven’t used before, there’s a description of it (with photos) in this article.

I find it’s pretty easy to get away with the first option when I’m using chenille yarns. Their texture holds the stitches in place, so you don’t have to worry about areas of loose tension where the yarn breaks are. But for smooth yarns I’d use the second option.

To change color, insert your hook into the next stitch and draw through a loop of the color you’ve been using (in this case brown – see the left hand photo below). Then loop your new yarn over the hook from back to front, and draw it through both loops on your hook (right hand photo below).

3rd round: With the brown yarn *sc, inc* twice, color change to white yarn, *sc, inc* three times, color change to brown yarn, *sc, inc* three times. (24 sts)

4th round: 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, color change to white yarn, inc, *2 sc, inc* three times, color change to brown yarn, *2 sc, inc* three times. (32 sts)

5th round: 3 sc, inc, sc, color change to white yarn, 2 sc, inc, *3 sc, inc* 3 times, sc, color change to brown yarn, 2 sc, inc, *3 sc, inc* twice. (40 sts)

That’s the last of the increasing rows, so I’m going to layout the pattern for rounds 6 – 15 a little differently, to make it easier for you to keep track of the color changes.

Rounds 6 – 15

Rather than set out this next section in rounds, I’m just going to tell you how many stitches to make before changing color again. Since we’re going round and round in spirals, the point where one round finishes and the next begins isn’t all that important anyway.

Make all the stitches using single crochet. The gaps in the list don’t mean anything – they’re just to break it up and help you keep track of progress!

• 6 brown
• 21 white
• 18 brown
• 22 white
• 19 brown

• 22 white
• 18 brown
• 22 white
• 18 brown
• 23 white

• 18 brown
• 23 white
• 16 brown
• 24 white
• 16 brown

• 25 white
• 14 brown
• 27 white
• 11 brown
• 37 white

You’ve just finished round 15, and your puppy’s brown patch is finished. We’re going back to counting rounds now, so pop a stitch marker or scrap of yarn through the stitch you’ve just made to mark where the rounds end.

Rounds 16 – 23

Rounds 16 – 23: Sc 40 (40 sts)

At the end of round 23 is a good time to add the eyes. Spread the body out on a flat work surface, and position the safety eyes. I placed mine between rows 10 and 11, and 8 stitches apart – but you can experiment with moving them around to change your puppy’s expression!

Press the backs onto the safety eyes, then spread the body out flat again, making sure the eyes are central. The next step is to make single crochets until you reach the spot marked by the blue arrow in the photo above. For me it’s 18 sc, but for you it might be slightly more or less. Ending up in that corner is more important than how many stitches it takes to get there!

Put a stitch marker into your last stitch – this is the new beginning and end point for the final few rounds. Now you’re ready to close the body.

Closing the body

The base of your plushy is going to be elliptical, and we’re going to achieve that by bunching the decreases up at the sides. I recommend using invisible decreases for amigurumi projects, because they’re just that – practically invisible on the right side of your work. If you haven’t tried the invisible decrease before, here’s how it’s done:

• Insert your hook through the front loop only of the next two stitches (fig. 1).
• Yarn over and draw through a loop (two loops remaining on the hook).
• Yarn over and draw through both loops (fig. 2).

Let’s put that to use, and make rounds 24 and 25:

24th round: 3 dec, sc 8, 6 dec, 8 sc, 3 dec (28 sts)
25th round: 3 dec, sc 2, 6 dec, 2 sc, 3 dec (16 sts)

Put a stitch marker through the loop on your hook to hold it, then measure a 24” tail and cut your yarn. Stuff your plushy firmly with toy-safe stuffing, keeping back a little (about half a cup) for the tail later. Then pick up the loop from the stitch marker and make one more round:

26th round: 8 dec, sl st (8 sts)

Poke in a little more stuffing if it will fit, then use the remaining yarn tail to sew the opening shut. The body is done!

Ears

Your puppy’s soft and floppy over-sized ears are going to be his cutest feature. I’ve made both in brown, but one brown and one white or black would be a sweet way of personalizing your project.

• Start with a magic circle or a 4-chain loop.
• 1st round: Ch, 8 sc (8 sts)
• 2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)
• 3rd round: *Sc, inc* 8 times (24 sts)
• Rounds 4 – 7: Sc all the way round (24 sts)
• 8th round: *4 sc, dec* 4 times (20 sts)
• Rounds 9 & 10: Sc all the way round (20 sts)
• 11th round: *3 sc, dec* 4 times (16 sts)
• 12th round: Sc 16, sl st.

Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing later.

Tail

Start the tail with white yarn, and a magic circle or 4-chain loop.

• 1st round: Ch, 8 sc (8 sts)
• 2nd round: *3 sc, inc* twice (10 sts)
• 3rd round: *4 sc, inc* twice (12 sts)

Change color to brown.

• Rounds 4 – 9: Sc all the way round (12 sts)
• 10th round: *4 sc, dec* twice, sl st (10 sts)

Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing later. Lightly stuff the tail up to about round 7.

Nose

The last crochet detail for your puppy is their sweet schnozz. Using your black yarn:

1. Ch 3, sl st into the furthest st from the hook to make a loop.
2. Ch 1, 3 sc into the 3-ch loop.
3. Ch 1, turn your work, 3 sc (into the tops of the single crochets from step 2).
4. Sl st into the ch 1 at the beginning of step 2.

Cut the yarn leaving, you’ve guessed it, a long tail for sewing.

Assembling your puppy

There’s just a few easy steps between you and a finished cuddly puppy now!

Sew the ears onto the sides of the head, level with round 4. They hang more naturally if you just pick up the front loops around the top of the ear rather than the front and back loops.

Next hold your puppy upright on a flat surface to get the position of the tail right. Before you join it to the body, you’ve got a choice to make:

• You can leave the tail to wag freely, in which case you want the color change in the tail facing outwards, so it’s on the underside of the tail when the tail drops down.
• Or you can tie the tail flush to the body like me, in which case you want the color change facing inwards towards the body.

Now sew the base of the tail to the body. If you’re tying the tail flush to the body, thread a 6” piece of yarn onto a darning needle and pass it behind a stitch facing the body on round 5 of the tail. Find the stitch it touches on the body and thread the yarn behind that one too. Tie the ends in a knot, and tuck them inside the body.

Last but not least, sew the nose in place. Then thread 12” of black yarn onto a needle, and run it behind a stitch at the base of the nose (it could be one of the stitches holding the nose in place, or one of the stitches on the body – see left hand photo below). Thread the other end of the black yarn through the eye of the needle too, so you’re working with two strands at once (center photo). Embroider a little mouth, using the stitch-grid in the body as a guide (right hand photo). I can never resist making my amigurumi toys look a little grumpy, but you could give your puppy a smile or a neutral expression.

Squishy Puppy Complete

My daughter has called this one Sandwich! I hope you enjoy making this project as much as I enjoyed developing it, and that whoever receives your plushy loves it as much as my daughter loves Sandwich. If it’s given you the confidence to try a more life-like amigurumi pattern next, you’ll love Lucy’s Poodle and Labrador patterns. Happy crocheting!

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How do you like my 3D snowflake granny square? Pretty festive, huh? I think it would look great mixed up with simpler grannies in candy cane colors, for a jolly sofa throw or blanket. Rather than making the snowflake and a solid granny square separately, then sewing them together (which is one option), the snowflake is fully integrated into the square. Which means no sewing, and no risk of the stitches coming loose in future.

The first round of the granny square is the center of the snowflake, and then from round 2 the pattern diverges into snowflake, and background. The rest of the snowflake isn’t anchored to the background on my squares – I think leaving the points floating feels more free-falling and snowflake-y. But I have included an instruction for anchoring the points in place as you go, if it suits you better.

3D snowflake granny square pattern

This pattern is written in standard U.S. crochet terms. Using DK yarn and a size G (4mm) hook it produces a square approximately 5″ (13cm) along each side. The stitches and their abbreviations you’ll need to know are:

Ch chain
Sc single crochet
Fpsc front post single crochet*
Dc Double crochet
Sl st slip stitch

* Exactly like the better known front post double crochet, but with a single crochet. There are more detailed instructions in the pattern, if you’re unfamiliar with it.

Round 1

Using white yarn:

1. Magic circle (mc).
2. Ch 3, dc 11 into the mc, sl st into the top of the ch 3 to join.

Background round 2

Continuing with the white yarn:

1. Fpsc around the ch 3 from the start of round 1: insert hook from back to front to the left of the chain, and from front to back on the right on the chain, yarn over and draw through so you have 2 loops on the hook, yarn over again and draw through both loops.
2. Ch 1.
3. *Fpsc around the next dc, ch 1* eleven times.
4. Sl st into the first fpsc.

Cut the yarn and weave in the ends. Here’s round 2 looks from the from the front (on the left), and back (on the right). Notice how the top loops of round 1 have been pushed forward on the front.

Background round 3

Join your red yarn into one of the ch 1 spaces from round 2.

1. (Ch 5, dc 1) into the same ch space.
2. Dc 2 into the next ch space.
3. Dc 2 into the next ch space.
4. (Dc, ch 2, dc) into the next ch space.
5. Repeat steps 2 – 4 twice more.
6. Dc 2 into the next ch space.
7. Dc 2 into the next ch space.
8. Into the next ch space (which is where you started), and sl st into the 3rd st of the ch 5 to join.

Here’s how that looks from the front (left) and back (right):

Background rounds 4 – 6

1. (Sl st, ch 5, dc 2) into the first corner space.
2. Dc into all of the side spaces.
3. (Dc 2, ch 2, dc 2) into the other corner spaces.
4. And when you get back to the first corner space, dc and sl st into the 3rd st of the ch 5 to join.

After the 6th round I tied off my yarn and wove in the ends. But if you’d like a bigger square, simply add more rounds!

Snowflake round 2

Now when you look at the front of your square, the top loops of round 1 are pushed forwards.

Join your white yarn through the top loops of any stitch from round 1.

1. Ch 5, *dc, ch2* 11 times.
2. Sl st into 3rd st of the ch 5 to join.

Snowflake round 3

It looks like there’s still a long way to go, but in fact this is your final round! It’s worked into the chain spaces from the previous round, using an alternating pattern of single- and triple-picot stitch techniques.

1. Into the next chain space (sc, dc, ch 6, sl st into the 1st ch, ch 5*, sl st into the same space as the previous sl st, ch 5, sl st into the same space as the previous sl sts, dc, sc).
2. Into the following chain space, (sc, ch 3, sl st into the 1st ch, sc).
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 six times.
4. Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.

* Optional modification: Make the 3rd chain a slip stitch into the background of your square, to anchor the point in place. I prefer to keep the outline of my snowflake free, and the yarn I’m using is sturdy enough that the points don’t flop about, but anchoring the points is a good idea if your square is likely to be going through the laundry frequently. Try to catch a just single strand from the post of one of the double crochets.

Granny square complete!

This design really benefits from being blocked, and having the picot points on the snowflake gently stretched out to give them definition. To go the whole nine yards, I pin mine out on the ironing board, using some dress maker’s pattern paper to get the outside edges square, and lots of pins to draw out the snowflake shape.

Then I lightly steam it with the iron. Since my yarn is a synthetic blend (90% acrylic, 10% merino wool), it holds its shape really well after that.

I hope you have as much fun making your grannies as I did designing them – happy crocheting!

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