Lucy Kate Crochet

Pink Crochet Blanket

Lucy Kate — Wed, 23 Sep 2026 11:47:55 +0000

I love taking a standard crochet technique and making it into more than the sum of it’s parts. A great example of this is my pink crochet blanket pattern, which I created as a way to play around with the classic and solid granny square formats, giving them a bit of a twist by including some single chain gap rounds. I am so excited to share it with you because not only am I delighted with the finished project, but it was surprisingly quick and easy to hook up.

What You’ll Need

4 skeins of light pink worsted weight yarn
2 skeins of medium pink worsted weight yarn
3 skeins of dark pink worsted weight yarn
3 skeins dark grey worsted weight yarn
3 skeins light grey worsted weight yarn
2 skeins of brown yarn
2 skeins of white yarn
3.5mm crochet hook

I used Hobbi’s Cosy range of yarn, which is 60% cotton, 40% acrylic. Each skein is 50g. I really like this line of yarn, it has a great texture, it’s pretty strong, not prone to fraying and it has lasted really well in the projects I’ve used it for.

Techniques and Terms

This blanket might look complicated with it’s varying rounds, but it’s really surprising simple and a confident beginner with a few techniques under their hook should do just fine. I’ll give you simple steps and explanations for all the terms both at the beginning and in clarifications as we go along, so hopefully whatever your level you’ll be able to give it a go.

This pattern is written in American crochet terms, and is worked in the round.

Magic loop
Chain (ch)
Double Crochet (dc)
Color Change (cc)
Slip Stitch (slst)
Skip (sk)

My Pink Crochet Blanket Pattern

Begin by making a magic loop, but do not close it. Your first round of stitches will be worked into this loop, which you will close upon completion of the first round.

Make your squares in the following quantities:

10 dark pink
5 medium pink
16 light pink
11 dark grey
10 light grey

There are two styles of granny square, one for the pinks and the other for the greys. The border will be where you use your white and brown yarns.

The Light, Medium and Dark Pink Pattern

Round 1

Make a magic loop, but don’t close it just yet

Working into the circle, ch2, 2dc, ch3, (3dc, ch3) x 3. slst into the top of ch2.

Round 2

ch2, dc x 2, * into the corner (2dc, ch2, 2dc), dc x 3. Repeat from * around the square, then slst into top of ch2.

Round 3

ch3, sk, (dc, ch1, sk) x 2, * into the corner (dc, ch2, dc, ch1), then (1dc, ch1, sk) x 4. Repeat from * around the square, then slst into the second chain of the ch3.

Round 4

ch3, sk, (dc, ch1, sk) x 3, * into the corner (dc, ch2, dc, ch1), then (dc, ch1, sk) x 6. Repeat from * around the square, then slst into the second chain of the ch3.

Round 5

ch2, dc x 8, * into the corner (2dc, ch2, 2dc), then dc x 15. Repeat from * then slst into the top of ch2.

Round 6

ch3, sk, (dc, ch1, sk) x 5. * into the corner (dc, ch2, dc, ch1), then (dc, ch1, sk) x 10. Repeat from * then slst into the top of ch2.

Round 7

ch2, dc x 12, * into the corner (2dc, ch2, 2dc) then dc x 23. Repeat from * then slst into the top of the ch2.

The Light and Dark Grey Pattern

Round 1

Make a magic loop, but don’t close it just yet

Working into the circle, ch2, 2dc, ch3, (3dc, ch3) x 3. slst into the top of ch2.

Round 2

ch3, sk, dc, ch1, * into the corner (dc, ch2, dc, ch1), dc, ch1, sk, dc, ch1. Repeat from * around the square, then slst into the second chain of the ch3.

Round 3

ch3, sk, (dc, ch1, sk) x 2, * into the corner (dc, ch2, dc, ch1), then (1dc, ch1, sk) x 4. Repeat from * around the square, then slst into the second chain of the ch3.

Round 4

ch3, sk, (dc, ch1, sk) x 3, * into the corner (dc, ch2, dc, ch1), then (dc, ch1, sk) x 6. Repeat from * around the square, then slst into the second chain of the ch3.

Round 5

ch2, dc x 8, * into the corner (2dc, ch2, 2dc), then dc x 15. Repeat from * then slst into the top of ch2.

Round 6

ch3, sk, (dc, ch1, sk) x 5. * into the corner (dc, ch2, dc, ch1), then (dc, ch1, sk) x 10. Repeat from * then slst into the top of ch2.

Round 7

ch2, dc x 12, * into the corner (2dc, ch2, 2dc) then dc x 23. Repeat from * then slst into the top of the ch2.

Blocking

I am not a perpetual blocker of all things crochet, but I do highly recommend blocking when you are making a blanket. Particularly one made up of multiple granny squares.

Joining The Squares

Arrange the squares on a clean area of floor (or a rather large table!) in front of you. You can use the arrangement I have put together, or mix them up to make your own unique order!

I hand sewed the squares together, working in and out of the adjacent squares using just the front loops when the wrong side of the squares are facing outwards, as shown in this picture:

There are several ways to join granny squares together, and there is no right or wrong here. But if you use a different method to the one I’ve used, just keep in mind that the finished blanket will look a little different. Not worse, just different!

The Border

Begin in your white yarn

Row 1 – 2

Starting at a corner, chain two.

Make 1dc into each edge stitch, and 2dc, ch2, 2dc into each corner.

At the end of the round slst into the top of the ch2 to join.

cc to brown yarn

Row 3 to 4

Starting at a corner, chain two.

Make 1dc into each edge stitch, and 2dc, ch2, 2dc into each corner.

At the end of the round slst into the top of the ch2 to join.

Finishing Off

If you haven’t sewn or crocheted in your ends as you went along, now is the time to tidy them up. Make sure that you leave as much of each strand sewn into the blanket as possible, this will make it more secure and easier to repair if things come undone in the future.

To complete your blanket I recommend ironing it. Pop a clean sheet over the top to iron onto, just in case your yarn doesn’t take too kindly to the process. But I guarantee, it will finish it off really nicely.

Let me know how it goes, and please do share pictures to our social media if you’d like to show it off.

The post Pink Crochet Blanket appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Free Crochet Snail Pattern

Lucy Kate — Fri, 11 Sep 2026 13:01:15 +0000

I am so happy with my new crochet snail pattern, and it’s been important to me because I designed it at the request of one of my best friends. He’s running a martial arts event soon, and the logo incorporates a snail and he wanted a few little mascots to hand out. I don’t do paid commissions these days (it’s a long story) but I do love making designs for my friends on occasions like this one.

The plan for this pattern was to focus on small, cute and colorful. And I could not be happier with how it turned out. I normally lean into the more natural, realistic look for my patterns, but this time it was fun all the way.

This pattern is ideal for advanced beginners with a few amigurumi projects under their belt.

What I Used

I created three different snails here, but they all used the same pattern and hook size.

25g variegated worsted weight yarn
25g worsted weight pink yarn
3.5mm crochet hook
Toy safe stuffing
A pair of 2mm safety eyes
Steel yarn needle

The yarns I used were either acrylic or cotton/acrylic blends. For a neater more defined stitch, go with a cotton blend, but acrylics look absolutely fine for this style of pattern too. I’d steer away from the wools for this project as they tend to be less hardy and the texture isn’t as nice to work with. Unless it’s merino, which will work up nicely but is expensive for this type of project.

Techniques and Stitches

Magic circle
sc – single crochet
2sc – two single crochets in one stitch
sc2tog – join two stitches together with one single crochet
ch – chain
sk – skip
BLO – back loop only

My Mini Crochet Snail Pattern

I crocheted my snail in three parts, the shell, the body and the antenna.

The Shell

Working with your variegated yarn

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches (8)

Round 2

BLO 2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

BLO (1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 4 – 5

1sc x 24

Round 6

BLO (1sc, sc2tog) x 8 (16)

Round 7

BLO sc2tog x 8 (8)

Round 8

1sc x 4, then sew to close

The Body

Use your pink yarn

Round 1

Make a magic circle of 6

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

1sc x 12

Round 4

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 5 – 7

1sc x 18

Round 8

(1sc, sc2tog) x 6 (12)

Add your safety eyes in at around round 5, four stitches apart.

Round 9 – 16

1sc x 12

Fill with toy stuffing to about round 13 level.

Round 17

sc2tog x 4 (8)

Round 18 – 29

1sc x 8

Round 30

sc2tog then sew to close

Joining the body to the shell

Bend the body around the shell, and sew in and out of each section in a blanket stitch fashion to join them securely together. Try to make sure that there is limited movement between the pieces.

Two Antenna

Use your pink yarn for the antenna

Row 1

ch12

Row 2

sk, then 1sc x 11

Now sew each antenna onto the top of the snails head, one above each eye.

And you’re done!

I have made three of these snails so far, and they have been really fun little projects. I am going to ship these over to my friend for his event, and then make myself one more so that I can use as a seriously cute little keychain.

The post Free Crochet Snail Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Crochet Kangaroo

Lucy Kate — Fri, 12 Jun 2026 11:08:22 +0000

This crochet kangaroo pattern is perfect for a confident beginner, who is familiar with the basic stitches and looking for a bit of a challenge.

A few years ago I crocheted a wallaby with a baby joey in her pouch. It is without a doubt one of the most popular patterns I’ve ever made, but I there were a few issues with it. Firstly, and most importantly to me, people kept calling it a kangaroo. Secondly, I made it with chenille yarn, and if I’m honest, it’s just not my favorite fiber to work with. The difficulty of closing magic circles, and the tendency to fray leave me rather frustrated.

You can see where I’m going with this?

I took the wallaby pattern, made a few adjustments. And when I say a few adjustments, I actually changed the pattern quite a lot to get the look I wanted in a very different yarn fiber. But the basis is still the same! And am now delighted to announce the arrival of my brand new crochet Kangaroo Mom and Joey pattern.

What You’ll Need

100g brown DK yarn
50g cream/brown variegated yarn
3.5mm crochet hook
3mm crochet hook
2 x 8mm safety eyes
2 x 16mm safety eyes
Toy safe stuffing
Yarn needle

I used some acrylic yarn that I had in my stash for this pattern. You’ll find a lot of amigurumi patterns recommend a cotton blend for toys, but honestly a good quality acrylic works up just as nicely and has the benefit of often being an awful lot cheaper among other things.

Stitch Guide

This pattern uses predominantly standard amigurumi stitches, but I have thrown in some surface crocheting to add details to the pattern. This is a skill that can look intimidating to newer crocheters, but I promise it’s not as hard as it sounds. You make the stitches you already know, just into the edge or top of your work instead of into the next stitch.

Here are the terms I’ll use, and links to details on how to do the techniques:

Magic circle
sc – single crochet
2sc – make two single crochets into the same stitch
sc2tog – use a single crochet to join two stitches together
slst – slip stitch

Crocheting the Head

You’re going to work this section in your brown yarn, with the 3.5mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3 – 4

1sc x 12 (12)

Round 5

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 6 – 8

1sc x 18 (18)

Round 9

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 6 (24)

Round 10 -11

1sc x 24 (24)

Round 12

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 6 (30)

Round 13

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 6 (36)

Round 14 – 19

1sc x 36 (36)

Round 20

(1sc x 4, sc2tog) x 6 (30)

Round 21

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 6 (24)

Round 22

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 6 (18)

Insert the 16mm safety eyes at around round 12, with about 10 stitches between them. Use a string of yarn to tie the backs together, to set them further into the face.

Round 23

(1sc, sc2tog) x 6 (12)

Stuff the head, being careful to ensure filling also goes into the muzzle section.

Round 24

sc2tog x 6, then hand sew to close.

The Ears

For the ears you’ll need to make the bulk of them up in your brown yarn with the 3.5mm crochet hook, then you’ll surface crochet the edges in mixed yarn with your 3mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches.

Round 2 – 3

1sc x 8 (8)

Round 4

2sc x 4, 1sc x 4 (12)

Round 5 – 10

1sc x 12 (12)

Finishing the Ears

Cut a long tail of yarn, and attach a needle. Insert the tail into the ear, flatten it and sew the top half of the ear together to give a pointed appearance.

Now take the mixed yarn and surface crochet around the edge of the ear to define it.

Making the Body

Your kangaroo’s body will be entirely with the 3.5mm crochet hook and your brown yarn.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches (8)

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3 – 7

1sc x 16 (16)

Round 8

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 9 – 13

1sc x 24 (24)

Round 14

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 15 -16

1sc x 32 (32)

Round 17

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 8 (40)

Round 16 – 21

1sc x 40 (40)

Round 17

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 8 (40)

Round 18 – 23

1sc x 40 (40)

Round 24

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 8 (32)

Round 23

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 8 (24)

Round 24

(1sc, sc2tog) x 8 (16)

Fill with toy safe stuffing.

Round 25

sc2tog to close

Crocheting the Pouch

To crochet your kanagaroo’s pouch use your brown yarn and 3.5mm crochet hook, you’ll only swap to your mixed yarn to edge three sides.

Row 1

Chain 9 + 1, then turn (10)

Row 2 – 7

Sk, 1sc x 9, ch2, turn

Row 8

1sc at the base of the chain, 1sc x 8, 2sc, ch2, then turn

Row 9

1sc at the base of the chain, 1sc x 9, 2sc, ch2, then turn

Row 10 – 14

1sc x 10, ch1, turn

Row 15

Sk, 1sc x 11.

At the end of the row, tie off the brown yarn. Swap to your mixed yarn, and make a single crochet around three of the four sides.

Kanagaroo Arms

Your arms will begin in the mixed yarn, you’ll then swap to brown yarn after a few rounds.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches.

Round 2 – 5

1sc x 8 (8)

cc brown

Round 6 – 13

1sc x 8 (8)

Loosely stuff the yarn, using the handle of yur hook to push it down the whole way.

Round 14

Flatten the arm then use single crochets to join across the arm. Attach your yarn needle and close the circle by weaving in and out of the remaining stitches.

Crochet Legs

Your kangaroo’s legs will also start with the mixed yarn, then switch to brown yarn after a few rounds.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches.

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 4 – 6

1sc x 24 (24)

Round 7

(1sc, sc2tog) x 8 (16)

Round 8

1sc x 16 (16)

cc brown

Round 9 – 18

1sc x 16 (16)

Stuff the foot section only, leave the rest empty.

Round 19

sc2tog x 8, then sew closed with your yarn needle.

The Tail

You’re going to use your 5mm crochet hook and brown yarn to crochet your kangaroo’s tail.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2 – 3

1sc x 6 (6)

Round 4

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 5 – 6

1sc x 12 (12)

Round 7

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 8 – 9

1sc x 18 (18)

Round 10

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 6 (24)

Round 11 – 13

1sc x 24 (24)

Round 14

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 6 (30)

Round 15

1sc x 30 (30)

Fill the tail with toy stuffing.

Sewing The Kangaroo Together

Place all the pieces in front of you, and sew in all but one loose end for each of the sections to give you a clear tail to work with for the sewing.

Begin by sewing the head onto her body. Line up the back of the head with the back of the body, and weave in and out in the brown yarn using your needle.

Now attach the ears onto the top of the head. I went back around six stitches from each eye, leaving around four stitches between the ears at the top of the head.

Attach the pouch next. Sit the body flat on a desk, and line the base of the pouch up with the surface. Sew the white edged sides onto the front of your wallaby to make her open pouch.

Sew an arm onto each side of your kangaroo, attaching around where the shoulders would be.

Sew a leg onto each side of your wallaby’s body, attaching around where the hips would be.

Finally sew the open end of the tail onto your kangaroo’s back, using your needle and the same colored yarn.

Amigurumi Joey Pattern

Your crochet joey will be entirely made in the mixed yarn with your 3mm crochet hook, and you’ll need some toy stuffing and tiny safety eyes ready.

Crocheting your Joey’s Head

Round 1

Make a magic circle of four stitches (4)

Round 2

1sc x 4 (4)

Round 3

2sc x 4 (8)

Round 4

1sc x 8 (8)

Round 5

(1sc, 2sc) x 4 (12)

Round 6

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 4 (16)

Round 7 – 8

1sc x 16 (16)

Insert small safety eyes around round 5, leaving a gap of about four stitches between them.

Round 9

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 4 (12)

Round 10

(1sc, sc2tog) x 4 (8)

Fill the joey’s head with toy stuffing.

Round 11

sc2tog x 4, then using your yarn needle sew the circle closed. Tie off leaving a long strand of yarn.

Crochet Joey Ears

Chain four.

Skip the first stitch, slip stitch into the next stitch, single crochet, then double crochet.

Leaving a long tail of yarn, sew one ear onto each side of your joey’s head.

Joey’s Body

Working in your mixed yarn and 3mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches.

Round 2

1sc x 6 (6)

Round 3

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 4 – 9

1sc x 12 (12)

Fill with toy stuffing.

Round 10

sc2tog x 6, then using your yarn needle sew the circle closed.

Hand sew your wallaby joey’s head onto the neck, which is the narrow end that began with a magic circle.

Crocheting the Arms and Legs

Your pattern for the arms and legs for your joey are identical.

Make a chain of five stitches. Skipping the first loop, make one single crochet into the remaining four.

Hand sew the tail end onto your joey’s body.

Making Your Tail

Chain six. Skip the first loop, then make 2 x slst, then 1sc x 3.

Hand sew onto the rear of your joey, making sure to secure it tightly as it will get compressed when you put him in and out of his mom’s pouch!

Happy Crocheting,

Lucy Kate, x

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Last Minute Crochet Gifts

Lucy Kate — Thu, 04 Jun 2026 11:42:31 +0000

Crochet Patterns in a Hurry

Has an important occasion sprung up on you suddenly? Do you need a gift for a forgotten birthday or colleague’s leaving party? Don’t panic! I’ve been in this situation for all sorts of last minute presents, and I’ve got a lot of crochet patterns ideas to share!

Keep Calm – Should You Crochet Now?

Speed vs Gift Choice

Before we begin, I just wanted to remind you that if you don’t have time, then you don’t have time. A quick crochet gift, that you can realistically make it the hours available, is a lovely thing. But the number of times I’ve decided to crochet something only to realise a few hours later that I should have just gone to the florist and the gift recipient would have been just as happy…

Crochet A Last Minute Gift If

You know you have the right yarn in the correct quantities
You have enough time to pop to the shops if things go awry
The project is within your current skillset – don’t try to learn something new last minute
The recipient likes crocheted items and has expressed an interest in them in the past!

Under An Hour

For the truly last minute project, you need something that is going to take less than an hour to make. But this is actually possible! And hey, if your friend isn’t a crafter they might not even know how fast you put it together….

Crochet Keychains

Everyone has keys, so this makes a lot of sense! And they’re quick, i made all of these keychains in far less than an hour.

The easiest crochet keychains make quickly are probably those which look more like standard key fobs, like my waffle, sedge or bean stitch keychains.

The animal based keychains are quick if you are a confident crocheter, however they use DK yarn and a small hook to achieve the detail on the scale that they are produced at. If you are relatively new to crochet, even though these keychains are small in size they might take you a while to work up, especially if you’re used to larger hooks and heavier yarn weights.

If you are wanting to make one of these cute creatures in a hurry, and you’re fairly new to crochet, then you can make them faster using an aran weight yarn and a 5mm crochet hook. They will probably be too big for keychain decorations, but they’ll make adorable bag charms and in my experience will be easier for newer crocheters to work up this way.

Please stay away from plush yarn, it’s really tricky to use for smaller amigurumi projects that require multiple magic circles, because the fluffy outer layer has a fine strand inside which is prone to tangling if you haven’t worked with it much before.

Cat Keychain

waffle stitch Keychain

Easy Plushies

Crocheting toys for kids is one of my absolute favorite things, but a lot of my patterns for amigurumi are quite complicated or detailed. However, I was delighted to be able to publish a number of simple plush toy patterns by my friend Sarah a little while ago. Not only are they beginner friendly, but they are really fast to work up. Perfect if you want to crochet a toy by tomorrow!

Who Are You Creating It For?

I have fallen into the trap a few times of making a gift for someone because I feel like they should like it, not because they will actually like it. Beware of the practical gift, if you’ve never seen them use anything like it before!

Last Minute Crochet Accessories

Home Decor

If your friend has a favorite color or a home full of hand crafted items, then this is a great opportunity for you to whip up a last minute crochet gift that will slot perfectly into their lives.

The post Last Minute Crochet Gifts appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

How To Crochet Flower Earrings

Lucy Kate — Fri, 22 May 2026 16:41:23 +0000

I end up taking my jewellery off a lot these days, because I am regularly rolling around on the floor at jujitsu where any kind of bling would be a massive liability for me and my training partners. Which means that when I do go to the effort of putting in earrings, I want them to say something. And today, I decided I wanted them to show off my love for crochet with these flower earrings!

This pattern uses some more basic crochet stitches, however the size of the hook relative to the yarn is in my experience I little tricker to handle. If you are a newer crocheter and struggle with using a fine 2.5mm crochet hook with DK yarn for this, you’ll be absolutely fine sizing up to a 3.5mm or 4mm crochet and using the same size of yarn. Your earrings will be bigger and a little heavier, but they’ll still look awesome. I know, because I made them this size first and decided I wanted them smaller, but the larger ones still look fine really!

What You’ll Need

2.5mm crochet hook
DK white yarn
DK yellow yarn
Yarn needle
2 earring blanks

The Stitches

Magic circle
slst – slip stitch
dc – double crochet
4dc – four double crochets in one stitch
cc – color change

These are very similar stitches to the other floral jewellery accessories I’ve made too. If you like that look, then definitely check out my necklace, headband or bracelet patterns when you’re done.

Crochet Flower Earrings Pattern

Begin in your yellow yarn and make two flowers, one for each earring fitting.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches.

cc to white yarn

Round 2

Make 4dc and slip stitch into each stitch in the round.

At the end of the round, sew your loose ends very securely into the back of the flower. Remember that earrings twist, so making sure they are tight and neat is really important for this project.

Attaching the Earrings

Take a strand of the white yarn and attach a yarn needle. Ideally choose one fine enough to fit through the fixing at the base of your earring, but if you can’t do that just remove the needle, insert the yarn then reattach it when you need to.

Insert your needle at the top of one of the petals, then through the earring, then back through the petal in the opposite direction through the same stitch. Tie off and then leaving a long tail of yarn to weave in through the petals.

The post How To Crochet Flower Earrings appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Crochet Flower Headband Pattern

Lucy Kate — Fri, 22 May 2026 16:07:24 +0000

I have made a few headbands in the past, they are usually the thick kind that hold my errant fringe out of the way, or tuck my hair back on bad hair days! But this one I wanted to have the cute factor as a primary function. It’s designed to look like a fun accessory, or to match with my flower bracelet, earrings or necklace for a bolder hippy-vibe look.

This crochet flower headband is made in a few different parts, but individually they are all pretty basic crochet skills that any confident beginner should be able to handle with no trouble. However, just in case you’re a bit newer to any of the techniques I have linked tutorials below that you can check out before you begin.

The Stitches

Magic circle
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
slst – slip stitch
ch – chain
sk – skip
Moss stitch
cc – color change

What You’ll Need

3.5mm crochet hook
5mm crochet hook
Chunky yellow nylon/cotton yarn
DK white cotton blend yarn
DK yellow cotton blend yarn
Yarn needle

I used Bernat Maker yarn for the headband and Hobbii Cosy yarn for the flowers.

My Crochet Flower Headband Pattern

I began by making the headband itself, the flowers were crocheted separately and then sewed on.

Begin by crocheting the headband with your 5mm crochet hook and chunky yarn.

Round 1

ch75, and slst to create a circle.

At this point pop it over your head to make sure it’s the right size, if it isn’t then adjust the length of the chain by a few stitches in whichever direction you think. Remember when it’s made it’ll likely be slightly tighter due to the tension of your stitches.

Round 2

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

Round 3 – 4

From this row onward all sc will be made into the following chain gap.

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

The Flowers

Begin in your yellow DK yarn. You are going to make five flowers to go around your headband.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches.

Close the circle then cc to white.

Round 2

(5dc, slst) * 5

At the end of the round sew in your loose ends very securely.

Attaching the Flowers

If you are anything like me, the joining section of your headband is not 100% as neat as the rest of it. So let’s make that area the one that’s going to be hidden at the back of your head under your hair.

Place it on the desk in front of you, with that piece furthest away. Now take your first flower and using the white yarn sew it to the front side of the headband. I would weave in and out of the petal sections, mattress stitch style, through the band until it feels secure.

Now you are going to attach two more flowers to each side of that one, about a half an inch apart.

When you’re done, sew in the loose ends and you are good to go!

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Daisy Crochet Flower Necklace – Two Easy Options

Lucy Kate — Fri, 22 May 2026 15:49:23 +0000

I couldn’t decide how I wanted my daisy crochet flower necklace to look, so I made two options! I’m still not sure which is my favorite, but that’s not a bad thing. I can wear them on different occasions, after all. Although, that said, I’m not sure I’m getting them back from my teenage daughter since I asked her to model them for me…

These crochet flower necklaces should be easy for any confident beginner to crochet who has made a few amigurumi or granny squares that begin with magic circles. If you’ve not made a magic loop before then I’ve linked a simple tutorial for you below to help with that.

What You’ll Need

I’m not sure that it’s clear from the photographs, but the flowers on each necklace are a slightly different size. For the single crochet daisy necklace I used a 2.5mm crochet hook, and for the multiple flower version I used a 3.5mm hook. The interesting thing here, is that I used the same DK weight yarn for both, it really demonstrates just how much of a difference a millimetre of hook makes.

2.5mm or 3.5mm crochet hook
DK yellow yarn
DK white yarn
Yarn needle
Necklace blank

I used a cord blank necklace, but any necklace will work. And if you don’t have a necklace blank, just crochet a long chain, and slip stitch the end to the beginning to make a loop.

The Stitches

Magic circle
dc – double crochet
5dc – make five double crochets into the same stitch
slst – slip stitch
cc – color change

Crochet Flower Necklace Pattern

For the necklace with multiple flowers, make seven of these with your 3.5mm hook. For the necklace with one you’ll only need to do it once with your 2.5mm hook.

Round 1

Begin in your yellow yarn. Make a magic circle of eight stitches.

Close the circle then cc to white.

Round 2

(5dc, slst) * 5

Beginners – This translates as make 5 double crochets into the next stitch, then slip stitch into the following. Repeat around the edge of the magic circle, slip stitching to close into the final stitch.

at the end of the round tie in your loose ends very securely, leaving one strand of yellow yarn free to sew onto the necklace.

Assembling the Necklace

Lay your necklace on the desk, and place the flowers face down with their loose tail exposed. Attach a yarn needle and sew back and forth across the back of the necklace. I went back and forth at least three times for each, and then sewed in the loose end as I would after crocheting.

For the necklace with multiple flowers, slide then so that one is in the center opposite the clasp, and the rest are about half a centimeter apart, at even intervals.

Then pop it on your neck, and smugly strut away to show off your awesome crocheting skills. And if you like the flower theme, definitely check out my flower bracelet, earrings and headband patterns as well!

The post Daisy Crochet Flower Necklace – Two Easy Options appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Free Crochet Glasses Holder Pattern

Lucy Kate — Wed, 20 May 2026 13:31:23 +0000

I wear big glasses. Wide, heavy frames. It’s a style I love, and have done for years so I don’t see that changing any time soon. But it does mean that off the shelf glasses holders are often not the right size for my specs! I had so much fun this week making up for it by making the most oversized, cute glasses holder of my own. It’s going to sit on my desk, so when I have to ditch my glasses to film YouTube videos (you wouldn’t believe the glare if I leave them on…) then I won’t end up knocking them off the desk and on the floor again…

What I Used

I went with one of my favorite yarns for this pattern, Bernat Maker, with a 5mm crochet hook. You’ll also need a pair of scissors or a yarn cutter, and ideally a yarn needle to sew in the loose ends when you’re done.

The Stitches

These are the stitches, abbreviations and terms that I have used in this pattern. If you are unsure of any of the techniques, I’ve linked them below for you.

ch – chain
sk – skip
slst – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
1sc x 5 – make one single crochet into each of the next five stitches
2sc – two single crochets into the same stitch
3sc – three single crochets into the same stitch
FLO – front loop only
BLO – back loop only

Adjusting the Pattern for Different Glasses

This pattern is ideal for bigger frames, but to make it work for a slimmer pair all you need to do is make the starting chain 2 rows longer, and make two fewer base rounds.

My Free Crochet Glasses Holder Pattern

This pattern is worked around a chain in a round. If you’re familiar with making amigurumi, the process is very similar once you get going.

Row 1

ch8

Row 2

sk1, 1sc x 6, 3sc, 1sc x 5, 2sc (16)

Row 3

2sc, 1sc x 5, 2sc x 3, 1sc x 5, 2sc x 2 (22)

Row 4

1sc, 2sc, 1sc x 5, (1sc, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 5, (1sc, 2sc) x 2 (28)

Row 5

1sc x 2, 2sc, 1sc x 5, (1sc x 2, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 5, (1sc x 3, 2sc) x 2 (34)

Row 6

1sc x 3, 2sc, 1sc x 5, (1sc x 3, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 5, (1 sc x 3, 2sc) x 2 (40)

Row 7

1sc x 4, 2sc, 1sc x 5, (1sc x 4, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 5, (1 sc x 4, 2sc) x 2 (46)

Row 8

1sc x 5, 2sc, 1sc x 5, (1sc x 5, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 5, (1 sc x 5, 2sc) x 2 (52)

Row 9

1sc x 6, 2sc, 1sc x 5, (1sc x 6, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 5, (1 sc x 6, 2sc) x 2 (58)

Row 10

1sc x 7, 2sc, 1sc x 5, (1sc x 7, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 5, (1 sc x 7, 2sc) x 2 (64)

Row 11

1sc x 8, 2sc, 1sc x 5, (1sc x 8, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 5, (1 sc x 8, 2sc) x 2 (70)

Row 12

1sc x 9, 2sc, 1sc x 5, (1sc x 9, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 5, (1 sc x 9, 2sc) x 2 (76)

At this point I stopped working in continuous rounds and switched to building up the sides using closed rounds

Row 13

ch2, FLO 1sc x 75, slst into the top of the chain

Row 14 – 16

ch2, 1sc x 75, slst into the top of the chain

Row 17 – 18

ch2, BLO 1sc x 75, slst into the top of the chain

Row 19 – 21

ch2, 1sc x 75, slst into the top of the chain

You can now tie off and use your yarn needle to weave in the loose ends.

And you’re ready to go! No more glasses on the floor!

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My Easiest Crochet Trinket Dish Pattern

Lucy Kate — Thu, 14 May 2026 12:31:12 +0000

I really wanted this crochet trinket dish to be quick and easy to make, but also to be actually practical. So the sides needed to be solid but neat, the base smooth and the color bold but easy to achieve. I immediately reached for my huge reel of Lily Sugar n Cream cotton yarn, because it’s in this cute candy style variegated yarn so no color changes required to get the patterned appearance. Plus being cotton, it’s going to hold the shape really well.

The only weird warning I have for you, is over the past day or so I’ve been absentmindedly using this dish as a coaster… I think it’s probably partially due to the shape, but also a sign that I need to crochet more actual coasters!

I have been on a real trinket dish mission lately, so if this one isn’t quite your style then you can check out the more traditional tray style one here, or the funky heart shaped dish here.

What I Used

3.5mm crochet hook
20g DK yarn (I used Lily Sugar n’ Cream variegated cotton blend yarn)
yarn needle

I recommend using a cotton yarn with this pattern because it’s structure requires a stiffer yarn to hold that nice shape. If you’re not a fan of cotton yarn, you might like to have a go with the heart crochet trinket dish instead because it holds it’s shape nicely without needing such a rough textured fiber.

The Stitches

I worked this pattern in the round, in the same manner as I would with one of my crochet toy patterns. If you have made even a simple amigurumi project before, you’ll be very familiar with how the pattern progresses.

Magic circle
sc – single crochet
2sc – make two single crochets into one stitch
FLO – front loop only
BLO – back loop only

Easy Crochet Trinket Dish Pattern

Work in your cotton yarn using your 3.5mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 4

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 5

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 8 (40)

Round 6

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 8 (48)

Round 7

(1sc x 5, 2sc) x 8 (56)

Round 8

(1sc x 6, 2sc) x 8 (64)

Round 9

(1sc x 7, 2sc) x 8 (72)

Round 10

(1sc x 8, 2sc) x 8 (80)

Round 11

FLO 1sc x 80

Round 12 – 13

1sc x 80

Round 14 – 15

BLO 1sc x 80

Round 16 – 17

1sc x 80

When you have finished your final round, use your fingers to pop the shape according to the front and back loop only section. The front loop only part will denote the circumference of the flat base, the two back loop sections will allow you to shape the edges.

The post My Easiest Crochet Trinket Dish Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Crochet Trinket Tray

Lucy Kate — Thu, 14 May 2026 11:58:24 +0000

I have been making lots of crochet trinket dishes this week, in an effort to become more organised with the little items I usually leave littered and lost around my home. And so far, it’s working! I’ve made a heart shaped ring dish that I’m actually remembering to use, so the next plan was this more traditionally shaped crochet trinket tray. The intension behind this one is that I’ll use it to put in my stitch markers rather than filling my pockets with them!

Funnily enough, this trinket tray had a few false starts before I settled on the pattern I’m sharing with you today. I wanted a dense stitch to form the tray, for it to still have a distinctive look but one that wasn’t too textured. The issue with textured stitches in a tray is that they have the risk of catching on your items when they are put in and out, and that it won’t sit as neatly on my desk.

I tried a few different stitches, but none of them seemed to fit all those criteria. Happily, during one of our regular crochet clubs, my friend Sarah suggested I try linen stitches. These are dense and make the perfect lining for the tray, and I decided not to turn my work as you would usually with linen stitch to ensure that the base sat as flat as possible. The color changes have given the feeling of depth that this decision to reduce to texture could have taken away. And I’m so happy with how it’s turned out!

The Stitches

Linen stitches are less complicated than they look.

Magic loop
sc – single crochet
ch – chain
slst – slip stitch
cc – color change

What I Used

Lion Brand 24/7 brown DK cotton yarn
Lion Brand 24/7 blue DK cotton yarn
4mm crochet hook
Yarn needle

My Trinket Tray Pattern

Begin in your blue yarn, using your 4mm crochet hook

Round 1

Make a magic loop.

ch1, then work into the magic circle *sc 1, ch 2, sc 1, ch 1* 4 times. Slip stitch into the top of the first sc to join. The ch 2 spaces are your corner spaces, and the ch 1 spaces are side spaces.

cc brown

Round 2

sc 1 into the first side space.

ch 1. *Sc 1, ch 2, sc 1, ch 1* into the first corner space. Then working in the chain spaces only *sc 1, ch 1* into every side space, and *sc 1, ch 2, sc 1, ch 1* into each corner.

Slip stitch into the top of the first sc to join.

cc blue

Round 3 – 14

*sc 1, ch 1* into every side space, and *sc 1, ch 2, sc 1, ch 1* into each corner. Slip stitch into the top of the first sc to join.

change color at the end of the round, alternating between brown and blue.

Round 14 will be blue, do not change color for the final round

Round 15

ch2, then make 1sc into each edge stitch, and 3sc into the corners

Shaping Your Trinket Tray

Right now you’re sitting looking at a flat granny square. It’s beautiful, but it’s not hanging onto any trinkets.

What I do to give it shape now, and it’s a pretty classic crochet move, is to pinch in those corners.

The great thing about the color switching design of this crocheted tray, is that you can use those color change points to work out exactly how to get each corner the same size.

From the pointed corner count down three blue lines, and fold along the third blue line. Holding that line tight with one hand, use the other to sew in and out of each side with your blue yarn in a yarn needle.

Repeat for every corner, and then sew in your loose ends at those corners and underneath your dish at each color change.

And you’re ready to fill that tray with gorgeous little trinkets!

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