Welcome to my block stitch granny square pattern! Block stitch is one of my all-time favorite crochet stitches, ever since I used it to make a cot blanket for a dear friend’s first baby. For me it has just the right balance of pattern and simplicity. It’s pleasantly repetitive and meditative to work on, but not monotonous. And it’s great for making granny square projects that put a real dent in an overflowing yarn collection. You can use the colors you have a lot of for the background, colors you only have scraps of for the flecks, and colors you have a middling amount of for the border. That’s some pretty efficient stash busting!

Getting started

I’ve developed this pattern using DK yarn. It ought to work with any weight of yarn and an appropriately-size hook, but the relative height and width of your square might end up being a little bit different. Make up one square first, and use it to judge whether you need to add or remove stitches from your foundation row, or rows of stitches from the top of your square. Using DK yarn and a 4mm hook, my squares measure approximately 6” x 6” after blocking, but yours might be a little smaller or larger depending on the exact yarn you use, and your tension (I tend to crochet a little on the loose side).

Before I pick up my hook I also like to take some 1” snippets of the yarns I’m using, and check I’m happy with the order they’re going to go in. But you can skip this step if it doesn’t appeal to you!

Block Stitch Granny Square Pattern

This pattern uses standard American crochet terms. The only stitches you’ll need to know are:

Ch chain
Sc single crochet
Dc double crochet
Sl st slip stitch

Starting with your background color, make a foundation chain with a multiple of 3 chain stitches, plus 4. Using my foundation chain of 25 stitches as an example, here’s what they represent:

• 1 space for a single dc at the edge of your square (which will eventually be covered by the border)
• 7 multiples of 3 in the middle
• and 3 turning chains, which also count as a single dc at the opposite side of the square (and will also be covered by the border).

I’ve written it as a multiple of 3 plus 4, and not a multiple of 3 plus 1, to help you picture how adding more multiples of three will look. I hope it made sense!

1st Row

This pattern is dead simple to make, but a little tricky to explain in writing. So bear with me, and don’t worry, I’ve got lots of photos to help make everything clear!

Starting in the 4th chain from the hook, dc into every stitch of your foundation chain. After the final stitch, free your hook and put a stitch marker into the working loop – or just pull it through a bit further so it won’t unravel easily, like I’ve done in the photos coming up.

2nd row

It’s time to add the first row of colourful flecks.

• Choose which yarn you’re going to use, make a slip knot in it about 3” in from the end, and pop the loop onto your hook.
• Insert your hook into the space between the ch 3 and the first dc at the far right of row 1. Make a single crochet by drawing a loop of yarn through that space, then putting the yarn over the hook again and drawing it through both loops:

• Ch 2, then count 3 dc from the first row, and make another sc between the 3rd and 4th dc.
• *Ch 2, dc into the space between the next 3rd and 4th stitch from row 1* all the way along.

You’re not making the single crochets into the top of the stitches from row 1 here, rather the spaces in between them. Where you can see my finger peeping through in this photo!

When you get to the end of the row your last sc should be 1 dc away from the end of row 1. Put the working loop from the end of row 1 back on your hook (below left) and pull it through the working loop at the end of row 2 (below right).

Now you can cut the yarn you’ve used for row 2, leaving a 3” tail for weaving in later.

3rd row

Working with your background color again, ch 3 (represents 1 dc) and turn your work.

Make 3 dc into each of the ch 2 spaces from row 2 (indicated by the purple arrows below). At the end of the row, make 1 dc into the 3rd stitch of the turning chain from row 1 (indicated by the red arrow below).

Put a stitch marker in the last stitch, or pull through a generous loop, like at the end of row 1.

4th row onwards

Now it’s simply a case of repeating rows 2 and 3, until your square is approximately as tall as it is wide. Whenever granny squares are made in rows rather than rounds, it’s possible that the height and width won’t exactly match, so just get as close as you can. The only important thing is to finish on a background color row.

In total, my square has 8 background color (uneven-numbered) rows, and 7 fleck (even-numbered) rows.

At the end of your last row you’ll need to pause and weave in all those ends:

At this point you can either:

1. Cut the background color yarn and weave it in too.
2. OR, use the background color to make the border as well. This has the advantage of reducing the number of ends which ultimately need weaving in by two (don’t knock it – they add up!) And it’s also a good aesthetic choice if you don’t want your square to have the appearance of a border.

I’m going with option 1, so here’s my square right before I started adding a contrasting border.

Adding a border

I think block stitch granny squares work best with a border.

• It gives a bit more substance to the left and right edges of the square
• It makes the edges easier to join to each other.
• It’s a fun way to add another pop of color, and use up some more yarn from your stash.
• And a wisely chosen border color can really help unify some mis-matched fleck colors inside the square.

Here’s how to add one. If you’re using the same yarn you used for the background, just skip step 1:

1. Join your border color yarn into the top right hand corner space of your square.
2. Ch 5 (represents 1 dc and a 2 ch corner space), and dc 2 into the same corner space.
3. Dc into the top of each stitch along the top edge of your square.
4. At the next corner space (dc 2, ch 2, dc 2).
5. Working down the left hand edge of your square, dc 3 into the side of each background-colored row. With each alternate row you’ll either be making your stitches round the post of another dc, or around a turning chain.
6. At the next corner space (dc 2, ch 2, dc 2).
7. Dc into the other side of the foundation chain along the bottom edge of your square.
8. At the next corner space (dc 2, ch 2, dc 2).
9. Working up the right hand edge of your square, dc 3 into the side of each background-colored row.
10. When you get back to the first corner, dc into the corner space and sl st into the 4th st of the ch 5 to join. Cut the yarn and weave in the end.

Block your squares and show them off!

Your block stitch granny square is finished and ready for blocking. One square by itself can be a pretty coaster, placemat, or face cloth. Lots together work well for scatter pillow covers, and medium weight blankets.

The post Block Stitch Granny Square appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

A third loop only granny square is an easy but eye catching alternative to a regular solid granny square. It has an interesting three-dimensional texture, but without being bulky or heavy. So you can turn lots of them into a medium-weight blanket or throw for all seasons. Like any traditional granny square project, these squares are perfect for using up yarn scraps. But I think they look especially effective in just two colors, like this.

Choosing the yarn and hook

Third loop only granny squares are exceptionally versatile, and look good in almost any yarn. They don’t gobble up yarn like other grannies with interesting 3-dimensional textures, so you might even choose a more high-end or luxurious yarn, without fear of breaking the bank. That said, I’ve made these ones in Hayfield Soft Twist DK, a blend of 90% acrylic and 10% merino, twisted together using the S-on-S plying technique traditionally associated with merino yarns. It’s smooth, strong, and really budget friendly for big projects – I love it!

This pattern shouldn’t present any differences to your usual tension, so use whatever size hook you’d usually pair with the yarn you have picked out.

Getting started

Begin your granny square however you prefer. The options are:

• Magic circle (my preference)
• Making 4 chain stitches and joining them with a slip stitch to make a circle.
• Making 2 chain stitches and treating the first one (the one furthest from your hook) as the starting circle.

The rest of the pattern uses standard American crochet terms. There’s a guide to the basic stitches here if you need it.

Round 1

Into your circle:

• Ch 5 (represents 1 dc, and a two-chain corner space).
• *Dc 3, ch 2* 3 times
• Dc 2

Drop your yarn and pick up your next color. Using the new color:

• Slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the ch 5 from the start of the round.
• Slip stitch into the corner space.

Round 2

It’s time to introduce some third loop only crochet! The abbreviation to look out for is dc-3lo, which means make a double crochet stitch into the third loop only of the next stitch. Everything about the double crochet stitch itself is exactly the same as usual – it’s just the placement that changes. I’ve got a photo coming up to help with that if you haven’t tried third loop only crochet before.

• Ch 5, dc 1 into the corner space.
• Dc-3lo 3 into the stitches along the first edge. The back loop sits immediately below the back loop – insert your hook downwards into it as indicated by the arrows. In contrast to a regular double crochet, you’re only inserting the hook under one loop, not two.

• (Dc 1, ch 2, dc 1) into the next corner space.
• *Dc-3lo 3, (dc 1, ch 2, dc 1) into the corner space* twice more.
• Dc-3lo 2, then dc into the back loop of the second stitch of the ch 5 from the previous round.

• Drop your yarn and pick up with the next color.
• Sl st into the 3rd stitch of the ch 5 from the beginning of the round, and sl st again into the corner space.

Round 3

In round 3 the way we work the corners slightly changes, so take note of that. But this is round you’ll keep repeating from here on, so it’s all going to be super straightforward after this!

• Ch 5, dc 2 into the corner space.
• *Dc-3lo 5 into the stitches along the edge, (dc 2, ch 2, dc 2) into the corner space* 3 times.
• Dc-3lo 4, dc into the back loop of the second stitch of the ch 5 from the previous round, dc into the final chain space.
• Drop your yarn and pick up with the next color.
• Sl st into the 3rd stitch of the ch 5 from the beginning of the round, and sl st again into the corner space.

Round 4 onwards

Repeat as for round 3:

• Start with ch 5, dc 2 in the first corner space.
• Dc-3lo into all the edge stitches.
• (Dc 2, ch 2, dc 2) into the corner spaces.
• Finish with a dc into the back of the 2nd st of the ch 5 from the previous round, then a dc into the corner space.
• Change color, slip stitch into the 3rd st of the ch 5 from the start of the round, and sl st into the corner space.

At the end of your final round, don’t change color before the final step. Use the same color as the rest of the round, and only slip stitch once into the 3rd st of the ch 5 from the start of the round. Cut the yarn and pull the yarn tail right through the slip stitch, then get to work weaving in all those ends!

Finishing up

Third loop only granny squares really benefit from being blocked. I’m devoted to blocking my granny squares anyway, but if if you’re usually happy to skip it, well, don’t!

Check out the awesome texture – I think it really elevates these granny squares, without being any harder to make than a typical granny square. I hope you’ll enjoy making some of your own!

The post Third Loop Only Granny Square appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

This feather stitch granny square is a great alternative to using puff stitch, especially if, like me, you find getting the height of puff stitches consistent a bit of a drag. Feather stitches are based on half-double crochet, and the height between the rows creates a framework for perfectly even stitches which are also attractive to look at, and dense and squashy to touch. These feather stitch granny squares are ideal for making small baby blankets to use in prams and strollers in winter.

Choosing the best yarn and hook

Feather stitch looks effective in most woolen, bamboo, cotton or acrylic yarns. Steer clear of fluffy mohair-like yarns or bulky chenilles, because the beauty of the stitch will get lost in the texture of the yarn. They’ll also make it hard to see where to insert your hook. And finally make a test swatch first if you’re thinking of using anything heavier than a worsted or aran weight yarn. Feather stitch makes a thick fabric, and with bulky yarns, it can even end up too thick to be practical. So check what you’re letting yourself in for, and if it’s definitely the result you want.

If your tension is even a little on the tight side, I recommend going up a hook size to make sure your fabric doesn’t end up stiff. For the squares in these photos I used a 4.50mm (size H) hook, and DK acrylic and merino blend yarn.

Starting your feather stitch granny square

Feather stitch is worked in rows, so begin by making a foundation chain with an odd number of stitches. The number of feathers you’ll get in your row is equal to three less than the number of chains, divided by two. I like to start with a foundation chain of 17, which makes 7 feathers.

For granny squares made in rows, I like to work the first row into the back loops of the foundation chain. It’s not essential, but it leaves the two top loops free for easy joining later. To find the back loops just flip your chain over and you’ll see them running along the center of the underside of your chain.

Row 1

Rows 1 and 2 are a little different – and more fiddly – than rows 3 onwards. So just take heart that the difficult bit will be over quickly, and it is going to get easier!

Starting in the 3rd stitch from the hook, *hdc 1, ch 1* all the way along, finishing on a hdc. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 2

Skip the turning chain, and make an hdc into the top of the next stitch – which is the last hdc from row 1.

Now follow these steps:

• Yarn over the hook.
• Insert the hook into the chain space marked 1 in the photo.

• Yarn over the hook and pull through to the front.
• Yarn over the hook.
• Insert the hook into the stitch below that chain space, marked 2 in the photo.
• Yarn over and pull through the front.
• Yarn over the hook.
• Insert the hook into the next chain space, marked 3 in the photo.
• Yarn over and pull through to the front – you should have 7 loops on your hook now.
• Yarn over, and draw through all 7 loops.

Finally, make a chain stitch.

That’s one feather stitch! To make the next, repeat those steps, but now position 3 in the photo is the new position 1.

When you get to the end of the row, make your final feather stitch into positions 1, 2 and 3 indicated below. Don’t forget to close it with a chain stitch, then hdc into the top of the turning chain from your foundation row – marked 4 in the photo. Ch 1 to finish.

Row 3

Turn your work. Skip the ch 1 and make an hdc into the last hdc stitch of the previous row (marked 1 down below).

Markers 2 – 4 show where to make the first feather stitches, and markers 5 to 7 show where to make the second. Keep going to the end of the row, and finish with an hdc into the top of the hdc at the end of the row below.

Keep repeating row 3 until your square is as tall as it is wide.

Adding a double crochet border

I like to finish my feather stitch granny squares with a double crochet border. It’s optional, but there are the advantages:

• It looks attractive.
• It makes the squares easier to join together later.
• And it’s a quick way of boosting their size.

For all its beauty, feather stitch is not fast to work up. Which is why I usually save it for small projects like baby blankets. Adding a double crochet border to my squares is a quick way of getting them from just shy of 4” square, to nearly 5” square. Which is a surface area increase of nearly 50%, and in much less time than it would have taken to cover the same area with more feather stitch!

The method

Start by chaining 5, and making a double crochet into the corner space. This represents one double crochet on each edge, and a 2-chain corner space between them.

The number of stitches along the top and bottom edges of your work are equal to your foundation chain, less one. Which in my case is 16. So I need to fit 16 double crochets along the sides as well. There’s not really a lot of rhyme or reason to where you position them, as long as they look evenly spaced. I like to mark the center point so I know I need 8 stitches either side, and then eyeball it.

At the next corner (dc 1, ch 2, dc 1) into the space nearest the corner. Dc along the bottom edge of the square, (dc 1, ch 2, dc 1) into the closest space to the next corner, and keep working your way around until you’re back at the beginning. Slip stitch into the 3rd stitch of the chain 5 from the start of the round, cut your yarn, and pull the yarn tail right through the slip stitch.

You’re done!

Hey presto! Now it’s time to weave in the yarn ends and block your square, so it’s ready to use.

The post Feather Stitch Granny Square appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

I love this ribbed crochet granny square pattern – it’s chunky, cozy, and almost sculptural to look at. It’s great for all sorts of blanket, throw pillow, or granny square sweater projects. Combined together, these squares make a fabric which is quite heavy with a striking geometrical design. I think they really refute any suggestion that crochet can’t be masculine. A blanket made from these squares would be a great Father’s Day gift, or present for anyone who prefers modern design over fussy or delicate motifs.

Choosing your materials

This granny square design looks best after blocking, to get the linear pattern looking really sharp. So I recommend using a yarn with a bit of natural elasticity, like wool or acrylic. You get a bit more wiggle room with these fibers to make sure your pattern sits really square. Cottons and cotton blend fibers would be my second choice, and I’d steer clear from fluffy or chenille yarns altogether. There’s no point spending extra time making a ribbed pattern if the texture of the yarn is going to obscure the depth of the stitches!

Ribbed crochet granny square pattern

This pattern uses standard American crochet terms and abbreviations. You’ll need to know

Ch chain stitch
Dc doubcle crochet
Fpdc front post double crochet
Bpdc back post double crochet
Sl st slip stitch

If you’re unfamiliar with front post and back post double crochet, let’s take a closer look at those techniques. Click here to skip to the pattern if you already know them!

How to make a front post double crochet

There are several ways to make crochet ribbing, and here we’re going to do it by alternating front post and back post double crochets. Then in each subsequent round we’ll match the stitches to the round before. So front post double crochet in front post double crochet, and back post double crochet into back post double crochet.

To make either stitch, we need to take a quick look at the anatomy of a double crochet. There’s the front and back loops at the top, and underneath them there’s the oft-overlooked third loop – take a look and you’ll see! Then beneath those looks are the post – the bit of the double crochet stitch which gives it its height.

Normally we make a new stitch by inserting the hook under the front and back loops at the top of the stitch, but for a front post crochet we’re going to insert the hook around the post, like this (remember to put your yarn over the hook first!):

Now complete the rest of the double crochet stitch just like you usually would. Here’s what a finished fpdc looks like, when the other stitches around it a regular double crochets:

How to make a back post double crochet

A back post double crochet is just like a front post double crochet. Except instead of working around the post from the front, we’re going to work around the post from the back. So put your yarn over the hook, and taking care not to drop it move the hook to the back of your work. Insert the hook through to the front of your work to the right of the post of the next stitch, and then back through the back on the left hand side of the stitch.

Now finish the double crochet as normal.

I find back post double crochets take a bit of concentration at first. They’re really at odds with the rest of my crochet muscle memory. But with a pattern like this, they’ll quickly become second nature.

Starting your square

You can start your ribbed granny square any way you like

• with a magic circle…
• with four chain stitches joined with a slip stitch to make a loop…
• or by making two chain stitches, and working the first round into the furthest chain from the hook.

Round 1

Ch 4, *dc 3, ch 2* 3 times, dc 2, sl st into the 3rd st of the ch 4 to close. Sl st again into the corner space. You’ve got three sides comprising 3 dcs, a 4th side comprising 2 dcs and 3 of the chain stitches, and 4 corner spaces.

Round 2

Ch 4, dc into the corner space. Fpdc, bpdc, fpdc along the first side. *(Dc, ch 2, dc) into the next corner space, fpdc, bpdc, fpdc along the next side* 3 times. Sl st into the 3rd st of the ch 4 to close, and sl st again into the corner space.

Round 3

Ch 4, dc into the corner space. Bpdc, fpdc, bpdc, fpdc, bpdc along the first side. *(Dc, ch 2, dc) into the next corner space, bpdc, fpdc, bpdc, fpdc, bpdc along the next side* 3 times. Sl st into the 3rd st of the ch 4 to close, and sl st again into the corner space.

Round 4

Ch 4, dc into the corner space. Fpdc, bpdc, fpdc, bpdc, fpdc, bpdc, fpdc along the first side. *(Dc, ch 2, dc) into the next corner space, fpdc, bpdc, fpdc, bpdc, fpdc, bpdc, fpdc along the next side* 3 times. Sl st into the 3rd st of the ch 4 to close, and sl st again into the corner space.

Round 5 onwards

Now the pattern is established it’s easy to keep going.

• Start every new round with 4 chain stitches and a double crochet into the corner space.
• Alternate front post and back post double crochets along the sides, matching the stitch to the one below.
• Dc, ch 2, dc in every corner space.
• Finish each round by slip stitching into the 3rd of the 4 chain stitches, and slip stitching again into the corner space.

Finishing off

Finish on an even-numbered round – I’ve made 8 rounds in total. At the end of your last round, slip stitch to close, but don’t make the second slip stitch into the corner space. Cut your yarn and weave the end securely into your square. Another great thing about this design is that it’s really quick and easy to hide the yarn tails inside the ribs!

Here’s how the back and front of a finished ribbed granny square look. They’re not quite identical, but they’re close enough that you won’t need to worry about a blanket having a right way up.

And that’s everything I have to share with you about ribbed granny squares – have fun!

The post Ribbed Crochet Granny Square Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Basket weave stitch is a brilliant choice for making warm, snuggly granny square projects, like blankets and throw pillows. It’s denser and warmer than a simple solid granny square. It doesn’t gobble up yarn like a bobble stitch granny square. It’s reversible, unlike a waffle stitch granny square. And it lends itself really well to working in rounds rather than rows. What more could you ask?

Your first basket weave stitch crochet granny square might feel a little bit mind bending to get started. Especially if you haven’t used back post double crochet stitch much in the past. But once you’re four rounds in, I guarantee you’ll be flying. And I’ve got lots of detailed illustrations to help you master the techniques involved.

Choosing your supplies

Picking the right yarn for a granny square is like matching different pasta shapes with the right type of sauce. Either you don’t worry about it at all, or you take it very seriously indeed. I’m pretty sure there is no middle ground! The beauty of basket weave stitch is in its texture – front post and back post double crochets combine to create an illusion of overlapping rows that weave in and out of each other. To show off the results to best effect, use smooth yarns like bamboos, cottons, or S on S plied wools and synthetic fibers.

I’ve used Hayfield’s Soft Twist yarns to make the squares in the photos accompanying this article – it’s an S on S plied acrylic/merino wool blend. S on S is a specific method of twisting yarn together to produce a very smooth surface. There’s not much point making this pattern in a fluffy yarn, which will hide the texture of the stitches! I used to be quite snooty about yarns spun from mostly synthetic fibers, but this one is soft, washable, strong, and budget friendly. I am a convert!

Since basket weave stitch is dense, I also recommend making it with a hook one size larger than the yarn wrapper recommends, so your squares don’t end up stiff. Soft Twist is a DK yarn, and I used a size G (4.5mm) hook.

The crochet terms you’ll need to know

This pattern uses standard American crochet terms. To make a basket weave granny square, you’ll be following these abbreviations:

Ch chain stitch
Dc double crochet
Fpdc front post post double crochet – full instructions coming up
Bpdc back post double crochet – obviously I have instructions for this too!
Sl st slip stitch

I’ll also be using brackets and asterisks in the pattern. When multiple stitches appear in brackets, like this

(dc 2 ch 1, dc 2)

it means you should make them all into the same space.

When multiple stitches appear inside asterisks, it means you’re going to repeat them – the pattern will tell you how many times. For example ‘*dc 1, ch 1* three times’ means dc 1, ch 1, dc 1, ch 1, dc 1, ch 1.

How to front post double crochet (fpdc)

The regular way of making double stitches in crochet is by putting the yarn over the hook, and inserting the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch from the previous row or round. For a front post double crochet we’re going to put the yarn over the hook as usual, then insert the hook behind the post of the stitch below, from right to left (or left to right, if you’re left handed).

Make sure you’re getting round the post, and not catching the front or back loop at the top, or the 3rd loop, which sits just below them. Then continue making a double crochet stitch exactly as you normally would: yarn over again and pull through, yarn over and pull through two loops, yarn over and pull through the last two loops.

Here’s how a fpdc looks when it’s finished. See how it stands proud from the regular double crochets around it?

How to back post double crochet

Have you ever tried folding your arms the wrong way round? If you haven’t tried making a back post double crochet before, that’s exactly how it feels the first time! We’re working around the post of the stitch below again, but this time we’re going to move the hook behind our work, insert it through to the front on the right side of the post, and push it back through to the back on the left side of the post. Which looks like this:

It’s not much of a photo!

Then finish the double crochet as usual, and the result will look like this:

If you flip it over, the other side looks like a fpdc. And likewise, the reverse of a fpdc looks like a bpdc.

Basket weave stitch crochet granny square pattern

This pattern makes a granny square approximately 5” x 5” (12cm x 12cm) after blocking, when worked on a size G hook with DK yarn. The exact dimensions of your square may vary depending on your yarn, and tension. Try to think loose thoughts, so your square doesn’t end up feeling rigid and lacking in drape!

Start however you prefer to start your granny squares: with a magic circle, four chains joined in a loop with a slip stitch, or by chaining 2 and working into the chain furthest from the hook.

Rounds 1 and 2 don’t follow quite the same pattern as round 3 onwards. After round 3, everything gets much more predictable!

Round 1

Ch 3, dc 2, *ch 2, dc 3* 3 times, ch 1, sl st into the top of the ch 3 to close.

Round 2

Ch 1 (make it fairly loose), fpdc around ch 3, fpdc 2, *(dc 2, ch 1, dc 2) into the corner space, fpdc 3* 3 times, (dc 2, ch 1, dc 2) into the final corner space, sl st into the first fpdc to close.

Round 3

Ch 1, bpdc 3 (watch out for the third loop of the first stitch, it tends to get in the way), fpdc 2, *(dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the corner space, fpdc 2, bpdc 3, fpdc 2* 3 times, (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the final corner space, fpdc 2, sl st into the first bpdc to close.

Round 4

From now on, the pattern starts to get easier to anticipate.

Ch 1, fpdc 3, bpdc 3, *(dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the corner space, bpdc 3, fpdc3, bpdc 3* 3 times, (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the final corner space, bpdc 3, sl st into the first fpdc to close.

Round 5

Ch1, bpdc 3, fpdc 3, bpdc 1 *(dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the corner space, bpdc1, fpdc 3, bpdc 3, fpdc 3, bpdc 1* 3 times, (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the final corner space, bpdc 1, fpdc 3, sl st into the first bpdc to close.

Round 6

Ch 1, fpdc 3, bpdc3, fpdc2, *(dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the corner space, fpdc 2, bpdc 3, fpdc 3, bpdc 3, fpdc 2* 3 times, (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the final corner space, fpdc 2, bpdc 3, sl st into the first fpdc to close.

Round 7

Ch 1, bpdc 3, fpdc 3, bpdc 3, *(dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the corner space, bpdc 3, fpdc 3, bpdc 3, fpdc 3, bpdc 3* 3 times, (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the final corner space, bpdc 3, fpdc 3, sl st into the first bpdc to close.

To finish, cut the yarn leaving a 4″ tail, and pull the tail right through the last slip stitch. Thread it onto a darning needle and hide it inside the stitches of your square, changing directions once or twice so it can’t work free again. Here’s how the front and reverse of your finished square will look:

As you can see, they’re not quite identical in the center, but they’re much more reversible than say waffle stitch, or bobble stitch.

Going bigger

Hopefully now you can predict the pattern to keep making your square bigger if you wish. You could even keep going until you have a whole blanket made from one giant granny square.

• Along the sides of your square, always make front post double crochets and back post double crochets in groups of three.
• Except at the corners where the number of fpdcs or bpdcs next to the corner space will change with each row.
• Always make (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the corner spaces.

How to recognize where you are in the pattern

In each round, you’re making front post double crochets into the back post double crochets of the previous round, and vice versa. If you ever pick up your square, and you’re not sure where you’re at, here’s a handy-dandy reminder:

And with that, I’ve said everything I have to say about basket weave stitch crochet granny squares. I hope you have fun making them – happy hooking!

The post Basket Weave Stitch Crochet Granny Square appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Hello and welcome to my quick guide to making ripple stitch and wave stitch granny squares. Ripple stitch and wave stitch patterns are gorgeously curvy and undulating. When you use them inside granny squares, they provide a striking visual contrast to the straight edges and sharp corners of the square itself. Perfect for making eye-catching blankets, throw pillows or tote bags! I also love them for how meditative they are to make – they are simple enough to let your mind wander at the same time, but not so basic as to be monotonous to work on.

Take me straight to the patterns!

I’ve got some pretty nerdy things to say about adapting ripple stitch and wave stitch pattern for use on a granny square scale. And I’m going to share them all, so that you can get the best out of these patterns, and even adapt them for your own project if you need to. But if you don’t want to read them, these links will take your straight to the patterns:

• Simple ripple pattern granny square
• 3D ripple granny square
• Simple wave pattern granny square – single row repeat
• Improved wave pattern granny square – two row repeat

Ripple stitches and wave stitches

First things first, what are ripple stitches, what are wave stitches, and how do you tell them apart?

Using wave stitch and ripple stitch in granny squares

Variations of wave stitch and ripple stitch have existed in crochet for a loooooooong time. They’re popular choices for blankets, because they’re simple to make, but produce visually arresting results. And there are literally hundreds of tutorials for replicating the classic ripple stitch pattern and wave stitch pattern elsewhere online. But I’m interested in how to get the most out of them on a small scale, in granny squares. If you’re planning a granny square project using ripple or wave patterns, there are a few things to consider:

1. Scale

Ripple and wave patterns are usually based on a repeating pattern of 14 stitches (give or take). But a traditional 4” granny square made in DK yarn is usually only about 16 stitches across. So you won’t get enough pattern repeats for the ripples or waves to really reveal themselves. To achieve a more effective result, you either need to make bigger than usual squares, or adapt the pattern to fit more ripples or waves into the same space.

Coming up down below is my solution for fitting a nice tight ripple or wave pattern into a standard granny square. It’s all about matching the scale of the pattern to the size of the square!

2. Pattern placement

Most traditional wave stitch patterns are based on a single repeating row. But I’m going to show you how using a pattern with two repeating rows can result in better pattern placement and a more versatile design for granny squares.

3. Getting straight edges

Usually with ripple stitch and wave stitch the top and bottom edge of the work are wavy. For blankets that’s no big deal – it’s a nice design feature in fact. But for granny squares it’s no good, because it makes it difficult to join those edges quickly and neatly. To give my granny squares four straight edges, there are special instructions for the first and last rows.

4. Getting strong edges

Finally, we want the vertical edges of our squares to be strong and straight too, so that we can join them securely without worrying about stretching or distortion. I love to achieve this using stacked single crochets at the start of each row instead of turning chains. I’ll show you how to do that now, before we go on.

Starting rows with stacked single crochets

Using stacked single crochets in place of turning chains at the beginning of a row creates a strong, straight edge. And they’re so easy you’ll hardly ever want to use a turning chain again!

1. At the beginning of your new row, make a single crochet straight into the top of the first stitch (below left). Note – there’s no turning chain first.
2. Next insert the hook under the left leg of that single crochet (below center).
3. And make another single crochet (below right). The result is a stitch about the same height and width as a regular double crochet stitch.

To make a stacked treble crochet, just insert the hook into the left leg of the top single crochet (indicated by the arrow below) and make another single crochet.

NOTE: This technique doesn’t work for the first row. If you try and single crochet into the closest chain to the hook of a foundation chain, that chain stitch will just unravel! So, the first row of my granny squares include some turning chains, which don’t count as stitches in the next row.

The patterns

Right, let’s get stuck into some granny squares! The stitches and their abbreviations you’ll need to know are:

St(s) Stitch(es)
Ch Chain
Sk Skip
Sc Single crochet
Hdc Half treble crochet
Dc Double crochet
Tr Treble crochet

Lucy’s written details on these basic stitches here. For the ripple patterns I’ve also used the following:

Inc Increase (make two double crochets in the same space)
Dc2tog Double crochet two together

If you’re not familiar with the double crochet two together instruction, it goes like this:

1. Start a double crochet stitch in the next space, but stop with two loops still left on the hook (below left).
2. Repeat exactly the same steps in the next stitch (below center).
3. You’ll have three loops left on the hook. Put the yarn over your hook, and draw it through all three loops (below right).

You can even decrease with the stacked single crochets at the start of a row. Make the first single crochet as usual, then pull the yarn through its left leg, and stop there without finishing the second single crochet. Then start another double crochet in the next stitch, and pick up from step 2 above.

Simple ripple pattern granny square

This is a simple single row repeat for the most part, but as for all these squares, it needs a special top and bottom row to give it straight edges.

• Foundation chain: Multiple of 10, plus 1. I’ve used 21 sts.
• Row 1: Sk 1, *sc, hdc 2, dc, tr 2, dc, hdc 2, sc* to end. Change color.
• Row 2: *Dc2tog, dc 2, inc 2, dc 2, dc2tog* to end. Change color.
• Repeat row 2 until your granny is just shy of square.
• Final row: *Tr, dc 2, hdc, sc 2, hdc, dc 2, tr* to end.

3D ripple granny square

This is a really easy twist on the pattern above, and it looks so effective. The only bummer is, I just can’t get a photo that does it justice! It’s not a bulky 3D effect, it’s a subtle one where each ripple looks like it slightly overlaps the previous one. Quite simply, it elevates them into *real* ripples, and I love it.

• Foundation chain: Multiple of 10, plus 1. I’ve used 21 sts.
• Row 1: Sk 1, *sc, hdc 2, dc, tr 2, dc, hdc 2, sc* to end. Change color.
• Row 2: Working into the back loops only of the previous row: *dc2tog, dc 2, inc 2, dc 2, dc2tog* to end.
• Row 3: Working into both loops of the previous row: *dc2tog, dc 2, inc 2, dc 2, dc2tog* to end. Change color.
• Repeat rows 2 and 3 until your granny is just shy of square.
• Final row: Working into the back loops only of the previous row: *tr, dc 2, hdc, sc 2, hdc, dc 2, tr* to end.

Simple wave pattern granny square – single row repeat

Now let’s look at the wavy designs. This single row repeat is the classic wave stitch pattern. It would do the job for a granny square project showcasing a different design in every square, but in every other respect I think the alternative approach below is better!

• Foundation chain: Multiple of 8, plus 4. I’m using 20 stitches.
• Row 1: Sk 2, *dc 6, sc 2* to two stitches from end, dc 2. Change color.
• Row 2: *Dc 2, tr 2, dc 2, sc 2* to two stitches from end, dc 2. Change color.
• Repeat row 2 until your granny is just shy of square.
• Final row: *Dc 6, sc 2* to two stitches from end, dc 2.

Improved wave pattern granny square – two row repeat

The problem with the pattern above is that each row stops half way through a wave. Which I think looks clunky if you want to line up the squares next to others that look the same. This version fixes that.

• Foundation chain: Multiple of 8, plus 6.
• Row 1: Sk 2, dc 2, *sc 2, dc 6* to 4 sts from end, sc 2, dc 2. Change color.
• Row 2: *Dc 2, tr 2, dc 2, sc 2* to 6 sts from end, dc 2, tr 2, dc 2. Change color.
• Row 3: *Dc 2, sc 2, dc 2, tr 2* to 6 sts from end, dc 2, sc 2, dc 2. Change color.
• Repeat rows 2 and 3 until your granny is just shy of being square, finishing on a repeat of row 2.
• Final row: Dc 2, *sc 2, dc 6* to 4 sts from end, sc 2, dc 2.

The green rows are repeats of row 2, and the off white rows are repeats of row 3. Once you’ve made the pattern like this, you can arrange the squares at right angles to achieve a result like this. It’s giving strong ‘60s vibes and I love it!

Ripple stitch and wave stitch granny squares

There you have it – everything I’ve learned about making ripple stitch and wave stitch granny squares, from hours of trial and error. And the only four patterns I think you’ll ever need! There’s just one more thing you need to know before you go: because ripple and wave stitches rely on changing color between rows to make their pattern stand out, you’ll end up with lots of ends to weave in. I can’t tell you how much of time I spent preparing this article was taken up just by weaving in ends!

The post 4 Ways To Make Ripple Stitch And Wave Stitch Granny Squares appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

A few days ago I posted on social media asking yous to let me know your favorite animals, to get some new inspiration for crochet designs. I was blown away by the response, there were so many great ideas! And the moment I saw a crochet manatee pattern suggested, I knew that was the one I’d be working on first.

There is something so uniquely adorable about these marine mammals. I’m desperate to see one in real life, but to my knowledge there aren’t any in aquariums in the UK, so as of yet I’ve not met a real sea cow.

So it’s a good thing I’ve crocheted my own amigurumi version, and now you can too!

• Equipment, techniques and abbreviations
• Free crochet manatee pattern

Your Kit List

Here’s what I used to produce this manatee amigurumi design. The yarn was from my stash. I’m pretty sure mine is from the Women’s Institute Soft and Cuddly line, but any DK yarn should work just fine.

• 50g light gray DK yarn
• 3.5mm crochet hook
• 16mm safety eyes
• Tapestry needle
• Toy safe stuffing

Reading This Pattern

This is a beginner friendly crochet project, however I do use abbreviations on my patterns. Here they are for those that aren’t familiar with the terms:

• magic circle
• sc – single crochet
• 2sc – put two single crochets into one stitch
• sc2tog – join two stitches together with one single crochet
• FP – front post
• FLO – front loop only
• st – stitch

The Manatee Pattern

This is a very low sew project, you’ll make your manatee in three parts, the head, body and tail, then two separate fins. That’s it!

Head, Body and Tail

Round 1

Make a magic circle of four stitches (4)

Round 2

2sc x 4 (8)

Round 3

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 4

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 5

1sc x 18, then 1sc x 6 into the BLO (24)

Mark stitches 19 and 25 of this round with a stitch marker or scrap of yarn.

Round 6

1sc x 24

Round 7

This round is going to need a pinch of concentration. You’ll begin working in a standard round, then move back to work a couple of stitches into a previous round so make sure to do this part without distractions if you can!

1sc x 18, 1sc into the front post (FP) of stitch 19 of round 5. 1sc x 4, 1sc into FP of st 24 of round 5.

The rest of the pattern will be worked in standard rounds, this is to give your manatee the overhanging lip that’s so distinctive to the species.

Round 8 – 10

1sc x 24

Round 11

FLO (1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 12

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 8 (40)

Round 13

1sc x 40

Round 14

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 5, 1sc x 15 (45)

Round 15

(1sc x 5, 2sc) x 5, 1sc x 15 (50)

Round 16 – 19

1sc x 50

Round 20

(1sc x 5, sc2tog) x 5, 1sc x 15 (45)

Round 21

(1sc x 4, sc2tog) x 5, 1sc x 15 (40)

Add the safety eyes to the head. You want the lip section to be hanging between them, with the eyes offset at either side. You can also add a section of yarn to the backings of the safety eyes to draw them together slightly.

Stuff the head gently, leaving the tipped lip empty of padding.

Round 22

1sc x 40

Round 23

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 8 (48)

Round 24

(1sc x 5, 2sc) x 8 (56)

Round 25 – 35

1sc x 56

Round 36

(1sc x 5, sc2tog) x 8 (48)

Round 37 – 39

1sc x 48

Round 40

(1sc x 4, sc2tog) x 8 (40)

Round 41- 43

1sc x 40

Round 44

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 8 (32)

Round 45 – 47

1sc x 32

Round 48

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 8 (24)

Round 49 – 52

1sc x 24

Round 53

(1sc, sc2tog) x 8 (16)

Fill the rest of the body with toy stuffing.

Round 54

sc2tog x 8 (8)

Round 55

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 56 – 58

1sc x 16

Round 59

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 60 – 61

1sc x 24

Round 62

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 63

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 8 (24)

Round 64

Flatten the tail to line up with the eyes. You might need to make 2 or 3 single crochets in addition to the end of the round to create an even finish. Now join the two sides together with single crochets. This will create a fanned end to the tail, 12 stitches in length.

Attach a yarn needle, and insert the yarn into the tail, bringing it out at round 54. Complete the tail by sewing in and out of this round to secure the toy stuffing in the main body and not allow it to enter the tail section.

Crocheting the Fins

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

1sc x 12

Round 4

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 5 – 6

1sc x 18

Round 7

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 6 (24)

Round 8

Flatten the fins, and single crochet along the edge to join the two sides together. Cut off long yarn tails ready for sewing.

Attaching the Fins

You now just need to attach a yarn needle to the tail of the fins’ yarn and hand sew them onto the sides of your manatee.

I think it looks cutest when the flippers are close to each other underneath your manatee, starting at round 22 level.

I’d love to hear what you think of this new design, I had a lot of fun making that characteristic mouth and hope you like it as much as I do!

Happy Crocheting,

Lucy Kate, x

The post How To Crochet A Manatee – Free Amigurumi Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Blocking is the process of neatening your crocheted fabric, usually through dampening the worked yarn and pinning it to the desired shape. Blocked granny squares in particular have steady edges and a consistent size, where unblocked crochet blankets can be wavy and uneven in appearance. Which also makes them harder to crochet together. Contrary to popular opinion you don’t have to wet your project to shape it, and you don’t need to go mad spending your hard earned dollars on blocking boards to get the finish you want.

I must admit I was so sceptical about blocking when I began crocheting. I think it’s because I am a bit of a natural corner-cutter. If something can be done faster, that’s the way I want to do it. However, my quick fix tendencies are no match for my need to see a job done right. (It’s fun in my head). Which is why I only made one blanket without blocking before seeing how wrong I was to skip that particular step. My natural scepticism has meant that I’ve come up with some unconventional but helpful tips for those occasions where blocking is needed.

Here are my own personal do’s and don’ts for blocking your next crochet project.

DO Block when working in 2D

Almost all two dimensional crochet projects can benefit from being blocked.

DO Dampen your yarn

I tend to put my crochet onto the blocking board then spray it down, with a towel underneath to catch any droplets. But you can spray your yarn then peg it up, either way is fine.

DO Stretch your work

When putting your crocheted fabric onto your blocking board, make sure to stretch it out. Don’t just stick it on according to its current shape, or it won’t neaten up.

DO Choose a solid board and pins

When you block your crochet, it takes the new shape because the fibers are under tension. This means that the board and pins are supporting the weight of the natural opposing pull of the yarn. To stay the right shape and be reusable for years to come, you need to choose a solid board and strong pins.

DO Go with metal pins

Not only are metal pins less likely to bend under the pressure of the blocking process, but there is no risk of snagging on splinters like with wood. Although it still pays to check the rods for burrs before sliding your crochet on!

DO Get the biggest board you can

Taking into account the size of your craft space and your budget, I recommend going as big as you can. This is based on my semi-frequent disappointment when I can’t quite fit the thing I’ve just made onto the board!

DO Get a board with plenty of size options

If you are going for a blocking board with removable pegs, look for one with the most pegs possible to fit the space available. This will give you more options for pinning out your work to the perfect size.

DO Plan your granny squares based on the board size

The granny squares I’ve pictured here turned out to just fit on the board. It was a close thing! In future I’ll definitely be working up the first square with the board next to me, to make sure I don’t over size it.

DO Block in sections

Remember to block your project in it’s composite parts, to make the best use of your blocking board.

DO Attach as soon as possible

Once you’ve blocked your squares and you are happy with how they look, attach them together as soon as you can to have the best chance of retaining that shape. Fibers do naturally shift back towards their original position once you remove them, but crocheting or sewing them together quickly helps to reduce this.

DON’T Soak the yarn

It’s really easy to over wet your crochet before blocking, and it’s not beneficial to the process. When sprayed down it should feel damp to the touch, but not be dripping or able to be wrung out.

DON’T Panic and dry your yarn with heat

If you have made your project too wet to block out, then pop it between two towels and just pat it dry. Avoid using a hairdryer as some yarns react poorly to intense heat and it’s hard to get an even dry.

DON’T Take it off too soon

If my time constraints allow me to do so, I like to leave my crochet on the blocking board for around three days. Some yarns are much more filling to neaten up and you can just leave them overnight, but in my experience there is no harm to waiting longer and it tends to give a more even finish.

DON’T Pin unevenly

Spoken from bitter experience, don’t quickly throw your work onto the board and go. Double and triple check that each edge is spaced exactly the same amount, or you’ll need to restart the blocking process over again when you’re done.

DON’T Be afraid to improvise

Blocking doesn’t need to be carried out on a specially made blocking board. I use heavy books to block bigger projects, or you can pin them using a clothes horse or washing lines. As long as you have a way to keep the crochet in the position you want it to end up as for a period of time, you’ve got a good chance of achieving the finish you’re looking for.

The post My 15 Do’s and Don’ts of Crochet Blocking  appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

My free crochet fish pattern is a tribute to our pets that passed away recently. We lost seven huge, old fish from our pond, including some golden orfes and koi, due to a power cut at our home. The smaller fish survived, but we were truly gutted about the loss of those gentle friends, so this amigurumi fish is my special nod to them.

• What you’ll need
• Free crochet fish pattern

If you’d like to go for a whole sea creature theme with your crafting, then you’ll love the manatee, puffer fish and seahorse patterns too.

The equipment you’ll need

Here’s what I used to crochet my fish. Feel free to use different yarn brands, and colors to match your own pet.

• 3.5mm crochet hook
• Deramores Studio baby lux DK orange yarn
• King Cole Prize DK white yarn
• Toy safe stuffing
• 18mm safety eyes

Terms and techniques

• magic circle
• sc – single crochet
• 2sc – two single crochets into one stitch
• sc2tog – single crochet two stitches together
• ch – chain
• FLO – crochet into the front loop only
• BLO – crochet into the back loop only

How to crochet your fish

I made this fish in separate sections, which were then hand sewn together.

The head and body

You’re going to work this section in orange yarn using your 3.5mm crochet hook. You’ll begin inside the mouth, working down the head, along the body and ending in the tail. We’ll add the white detail later on.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 4

FLO 1sc x 18

Round 5

1sc x 18

Round 6 – 7

BLO 1sc x 18

Allow the mouth to sit so that the two BLO rounds are the lips, and the rest is inside your fish.

Round 8 – 10

1sc x 18

Round 11

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 6 (24)

Round 12

((1sc x 3, 2sc) x 2, 1sc x 4) x 2 (28)

Round 13

((1sc x 4, 2sc) x 2, 1sc x 4) x 2 (32)

Round 14 – 15

1sc x 32

Round 16

(1sc x 5, 2sc, 1sc x 10) x 2 (34)

Round 17

(1sc x 6, 2sc, 1sc x 10) x 2 (36)

Round 18 – 19

1sc x 36

Round 20

(1sc x 7, 2sc, 1sc x 10) x 2 (38)

Round 21

(1sc x 7, 2sc x 3, 1sc x 9) x 2 (44)

Round 22 – 37

1sc x 44

Round 38

(1sc x 7, sc2tog x 3, 1sc x 9) x 2 (38)

Round 39 – 41

1sc x 38

Round 42

(1sc x 7, sc2tog, 1sc x 10) x 2 (36)

Round 43

(1sc x 4, sc2tog) x 6 (30)

Round 44 – 45

1sc x 30

Insert your safety eyes 9 rows down from the BLO round of the mouth. Use the 3 x 2sc point to guide your top and bottom edges, and place the eyes midway down the flat side of the fish.

Round 46

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 6 (24)

Round 47 – 48

1sc x 24

Round 49

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 6 (18)

Stuff your fish so far, being careful not to push the mouth outwards.

Round 50

(1sc, sc2tog) x 6 (12)

Round 51

Crochet the two sides together with single crochets (6)

Round 52 – 53

Ch1, 1sc x 5 (6)

Round 54

Ch1, 1sc into the same stitch, 2sc, 1sc x 2, 2sc x 2 (8)

Round 55

Ch1, 1sc into the same stitch, 2sc, 1sc x 4, 2sc x 2 (12)

Round 56

Ch1, 1sc into the same stitch, 2sc, 1sc x 8, 2sc x 2 (16)

Round 57

Ch1, 1sc in the same stitch, 1sc x 14, 2sc (18)

Round 58

Ch1, 1sc x 16, 2sc (19)

Round 59

Ch1, 1sc x 17, 2sc (20)

Round 60

Ch1, 1sc x 18, 2sc (21)

Round 61

Ch1, 1sc x 19, 2sc (22)

Round 62

Ch1, 1sc in same stitch, (slst, 2sc) x 11. Tie off and hide the yarn tail inside the fish.

Edging the Tail

Swap to your white yarn and beginning at the joining round 51, work around the edge of the tail. You’ll make 11 x sc up the side, then 3sc into the corner. Now along the tail edge make 2sc, 1sc, slst. At the far corner make 3sc again, then another 11 single crochets down the other side.

Four small fins

Begin your fins in the orange yarn, you’ll need your white for the edges again.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches (8)

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3 – 6

1sc x 16

Round 7

Flatten the fin without stuffing, and single crochet the sides together (8)

Edging and attaching the fins

You are now going to edge the fins in the same way that you did the tail. Switch to your white yarn and put a single crochet into each stitch around the perimeter, leaving just the final closing round orange. This is the side that you are now going to sew onto the body.

Sew the front fins around round 24 of the body, tilted backward at a slight angle. The back fins sit six rounds from the start of the tail, but more in line with the bottom of the fish.

Back Fin

Your back fin will be created in orange yarn and edged in white again.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches (8)

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3 – 4

1sc x 16

Round 5

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 6 – 7

1sc x 24

Round 8

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 9

1sc x 32

Round 10

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 8 (40)

Round 11

Single crochet the two sides together (20)

Flatten your fin and starting from the longest bottom edge, leave 10 stitches empty then single crochet with white yarn around the circumference of the remainder of the fin.

You can now hand sew the fin to the top of the fish. I placed mine on the exact top between the eyes, around 26 rounds in.

Let me know what colors you chose for your fish, and you’re welcome to email me a picture if you’d like to share it too!

Happy Crocheting,

Lucy Kate, x

The post How To Crochet Your Pet Fish appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

When you start a new hobby, there are things that you’d never guess were controversial that you quickly realise are. For crocheters, your hook grip is one of them.

For several years, I just picked up my hook without thinking, and worked with it. And why not? It was going well for me, after all! There wasn’t any stitch I struggled to make, and as time went on I got pretty fast too.

But once I went from hobbyist to designer, and then started publishing my crochet patterns and tutorials online, I quickly learned that there are two ‘official’ ways to hold a crochet hook. And some crocheters have quite strong views on their fellow crafters sticking to those methods.

Knife vs Pencil Grip

When using the pencil grip your thumb and index finger hold onto the hook, one at either side. If the hook has an indent, then they will often focus around this point, but that’s not essential. The middle finger sits nearer to the head of the hook, on the same side as the index finger.

In the knife grip your index finger instead stretches down the hook towards the head, and your middle finger rests bent alongside it.

The Impact of Hook Grip Types

The standard grips vary not just between individuals, but depending on which type of hook you use. Standard narrow wooden, plastic or metal hooks lend themselves more to the knife style of grip, in my experience. However, these days many of us are more comfortable with chunky, ergonomic handles, which are often easier to hold with a pencil grip.

The level of friction on your hook also makes a difference, because it will alter how securely you want to hold your hook. A rougher or more textured grip is less likely to slip out of your fingers, so can be held more gently or potentially with fewer fingers required!

My Grip

I hold my hook with my thumb on one side, and all my other fingers (bar the little one) on the other side. Technically speaking, for me personally it’s a pencil grip, because that’s how I hold my pencils or pens too. Various teachers tried to train me out of it with no success, and honestly it has never caused me any issues there either.

But my method doesn’t tally with the textbook two grips, and in much the same way as I felt self conscious about writing at school because it drew attention, I also still to this day feel a bit exposed when I share videos which unavoidably show my unusual multi-fingered hook grip. But I shouldn’t!

The post How I Hold My Crochet Hook and Why It Doesn’t Matter appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.