How cute is this squishy crochet puppy? He’s a fun, beginner-friendly alternative to making a puppy pattern with separate head, body and leg parts. But he’s just as appealing and cuddly! I’ve made him with bulky chenille yarn to really make him as squashy and irresistible as possible. But the pattern is just as effective in lighter weight and/or smoother yarns, and I’ve got tips for making him in different sizes, as well as lots of photos of the techniques involved.

You’ll need

The materials I used to make this puppy are:

• Super bulky chenille yarn in white and brown. I used Cygnet Jellybaby yarn in the shades white and moose.
• A small quantity of black yarn for the nose and mouth.
• Size J (6mm) crochet hook.
• Stitch markers (or scraps of yarn will do)
• ⅝” (16mm) safety eyes.
• Toy safe stuffing (approx 2oz, or 55g).

My plushy is about 7” tall. If you want to use a lighter weight yarn, you’ll need to choose a smaller crochet hook to match, and your puppy will turn out smaller. I recommend using a hook one size smaller than the yarn wrapper recommends, to create a dense fabric that doesn’t allow the stuffing to peep through.

You’ll also need to use smaller safety eyes with some yarns, to keep the proportions right:

• With dk, aran and worsted yarns, use 12mm eyes. You plushy will turn out 4-5” tall.
• For bulky yarns, 16mm eyes will still work. Your plushy will turn out about 6″ tall.

Squishy crochet puppy pattern

This pattern is written in standard U.S. crochet terms. You’ll only need to know a small number of very basic stitches:

Ch chain
Sl st slip stitch
Sc single crochet
Inc increase (make 2 sc in the same space)
Dec decrease

Round 1

To start, grab your brown yarn and either make a magic circle, or chain 4 and slip stitch into the furthest stitch from the hook to make a loop. If you’re using a fluffy yarn like me, I find a 4-chain loop is easier to tighten later without snapping the yarn.

1st round: Ch 1, and sc 8 into your magic circle or 4-ch loop (8 sts).

Round 2

2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts).

Rounds 3 – 14

Rounds 3 – 15 are worked in a combination of brown and white yarn. You can approach this in a couple of different ways:

1. Cut the yarn every time you change color, then tie the yarn ends together later.
2. Carry the yarn you’re not using behind the yarn you are using. If you choose this option, you’ll need to catch the floating strand of the yarn you’re not using every 4 or 5 stitches. If that’s a technique you haven’t used before, there’s a description of it (with photos) in this article.

I find it’s pretty easy to get away with the first option when I’m using chenille yarns. Their texture holds the stitches in place, so you don’t have to worry about areas of loose tension where the yarn breaks are. But for smooth yarns I’d use the second option.

To change color, insert your hook into the next stitch and draw through a loop of the color you’ve been using (in this case brown – see the left hand photo below). Then loop your new yarn over the hook from back to front, and draw it through both loops on your hook (right hand photo below).

3rd round: With the brown yarn *sc, inc* twice, color change to white yarn, *sc, inc* three times, color change to brown yarn, *sc, inc* three times. (24 sts)

4th round: 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, color change to white yarn, inc, *2 sc, inc* three times, color change to brown yarn, *2 sc, inc* three times. (32 sts)

5th round: 3 sc, inc, sc, color change to white yarn, 2 sc, inc, *3 sc, inc* 3 times, sc, color change to brown yarn, 2 sc, inc, *3 sc, inc* twice. (40 sts)

That’s the last of the increasing rows, so I’m going to layout the pattern for rounds 6 – 15 a little differently, to make it easier for you to keep track of the color changes.

Rounds 6 – 15

Rather than set out this next section in rounds, I’m just going to tell you how many stitches to make before changing color again. Since we’re going round and round in spirals, the point where one round finishes and the next begins isn’t all that important anyway.

Make all the stitches using single crochet. The gaps in the list don’t mean anything – they’re just to break it up and help you keep track of progress!

• 6 brown
• 21 white
• 18 brown
• 22 white
• 19 brown

• 22 white
• 18 brown
• 22 white
• 18 brown
• 23 white

• 18 brown
• 23 white
• 16 brown
• 24 white
• 16 brown

• 25 white
• 14 brown
• 27 white
• 11 brown
• 37 white

You’ve just finished round 15, and your puppy’s brown patch is finished. We’re going back to counting rounds now, so pop a stitch marker or scrap of yarn through the stitch you’ve just made to mark where the rounds end.

Rounds 16 – 23

Rounds 16 – 23: Sc 40 (40 sts)

At the end of round 23 is a good time to add the eyes. Spread the body out on a flat work surface, and position the safety eyes. I placed mine between rows 10 and 11, and 8 stitches apart – but you can experiment with moving them around to change your puppy’s expression!

Press the backs onto the safety eyes, then spread the body out flat again, making sure the eyes are central. The next step is to make single crochets until you reach the spot marked by the blue arrow in the photo above. For me it’s 18 sc, but for you it might be slightly more or less. Ending up in that corner is more important than how many stitches it takes to get there!

Put a stitch marker into your last stitch – this is the new beginning and end point for the final few rounds. Now you’re ready to close the body.

Closing the body

The base of your plushy is going to be elliptical, and we’re going to achieve that by bunching the decreases up at the sides. I recommend using invisible decreases for amigurumi projects, because they’re just that – practically invisible on the right side of your work. If you haven’t tried the invisible decrease before, here’s how it’s done:

• Insert your hook through the front loop only of the next two stitches (fig. 1).
• Yarn over and draw through a loop (two loops remaining on the hook).
• Yarn over and draw through both loops (fig. 2).

Let’s put that to use, and make rounds 24 and 25:

24th round: 3 dec, sc 8, 6 dec, 8 sc, 3 dec (28 sts)
25th round: 3 dec, sc 2, 6 dec, 2 sc, 3 dec (16 sts)

Put a stitch marker through the loop on your hook to hold it, then measure a 24” tail and cut your yarn. Stuff your plushy firmly with toy-safe stuffing, keeping back a little (about half a cup) for the tail later. Then pick up the loop from the stitch marker and make one more round:

26th round: 8 dec, sl st (8 sts)

Poke in a little more stuffing if it will fit, then use the remaining yarn tail to sew the opening shut. The body is done!

Ears

Your puppy’s soft and floppy over-sized ears are going to be his cutest feature. I’ve made both in brown, but one brown and one white or black would be a sweet way of personalizing your project.

• Start with a magic circle or a 4-chain loop.
• 1st round: Ch, 8 sc (8 sts)
• 2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)
• 3rd round: *Sc, inc* 8 times (24 sts)
• Rounds 4 – 7: Sc all the way round (24 sts)
• 8th round: *4 sc, dec* 4 times (20 sts)
• Rounds 9 & 10: Sc all the way round (20 sts)
• 11th round: *3 sc, dec* 4 times (16 sts)
• 12th round: Sc 16, sl st.

Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing later.

Tail

Start the tail with white yarn, and a magic circle or 4-chain loop.

• 1st round: Ch, 8 sc (8 sts)
• 2nd round: *3 sc, inc* twice (10 sts)
• 3rd round: *4 sc, inc* twice (12 sts)

Change color to brown.

• Rounds 4 – 9: Sc all the way round (12 sts)
• 10th round: *4 sc, dec* twice, sl st (10 sts)

Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing later. Lightly stuff the tail up to about round 7.

Nose

The last crochet detail for your puppy is their sweet schnozz. Using your black yarn:

1. Ch 3, sl st into the furthest st from the hook to make a loop.
2. Ch 1, 3 sc into the 3-ch loop.
3. Ch 1, turn your work, 3 sc (into the tops of the single crochets from step 2).
4. Sl st into the ch 1 at the beginning of step 2.

Cut the yarn leaving, you’ve guessed it, a long tail for sewing.

Assembling your puppy

There’s just a few easy steps between you and a finished cuddly puppy now!

Sew the ears onto the sides of the head, level with round 4. They hang more naturally if you just pick up the front loops around the top of the ear rather than the front and back loops.

Next hold your puppy upright on a flat surface to get the position of the tail right. Before you join it to the body, you’ve got a choice to make:

• You can leave the tail to wag freely, in which case you want the color change in the tail facing outwards, so it’s on the underside of the tail when the tail drops down.
• Or you can tie the tail flush to the body like me, in which case you want the color change facing inwards towards the body.

Now sew the base of the tail to the body. If you’re tying the tail flush to the body, thread a 6” piece of yarn onto a darning needle and pass it behind a stitch facing the body on round 5 of the tail. Find the stitch it touches on the body and thread the yarn behind that one too. Tie the ends in a knot, and tuck them inside the body.

Last but not least, sew the nose in place. Then thread 12” of black yarn onto a needle, and run it behind a stitch at the base of the nose (it could be one of the stitches holding the nose in place, or one of the stitches on the body – see left hand photo below). Thread the other end of the black yarn through the eye of the needle too, so you’re working with two strands at once (center photo). Embroider a little mouth, using the stitch-grid in the body as a guide (right hand photo). I can never resist making my amigurumi toys look a little grumpy, but you could give your puppy a smile or a neutral expression.

Squishy Puppy Complete

My daughter has called this one Sandwich! I hope you enjoy making this project as much as I enjoyed developing it, and that whoever receives your plushy loves it as much as my daughter loves Sandwich. If it’s given you the confidence to try a more life-like amigurumi pattern next, you’ll love Lucy’s Poodle and Labrador patterns. Happy crocheting!

The post Squishy Crochet Puppy Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

How do you like my 3D snowflake granny square? Pretty festive, huh? I think it would look great mixed up with simpler grannies in candy cane colors, for a jolly sofa throw or blanket. Rather than making the snowflake and a solid granny square separately, then sewing them together (which is one option), the snowflake is fully integrated into the square. Which means no sewing, and no risk of the stitches coming loose in future.

The first round of the granny square is the center of the snowflake, and then from round 2 the pattern diverges into snowflake, and background. The rest of the snowflake isn’t anchored to the background on my squares – I think leaving the points floating feels more free-falling and snowflake-y. But I have included an instruction for anchoring the points in place as you go, if it suits you better.

3D snowflake granny square pattern

This pattern is written in standard U.S. crochet terms. Using DK yarn and a size G (4mm) hook it produces a square approximately 5″ (13cm) along each side. The stitches and their abbreviations you’ll need to know are:

Ch chain
Sc single crochet
Fpsc front post single crochet*
Dc Double crochet
Sl st slip stitch

* Exactly like the better known front post double crochet, but with a single crochet. There are more detailed instructions in the pattern, if you’re unfamiliar with it.

Round 1

Using white yarn:

1. Magic circle (mc).
2. Ch 3, dc 11 into the mc, sl st into the top of the ch 3 to join.

Background round 2

Continuing with the white yarn:

1. Fpsc around the ch 3 from the start of round 1: insert hook from back to front to the left of the chain, and from front to back on the right on the chain, yarn over and draw through so you have 2 loops on the hook, yarn over again and draw through both loops.
2. Ch 1.
3. *Fpsc around the next dc, ch 1* eleven times.
4. Sl st into the first fpsc.

Cut the yarn and weave in the ends. Here’s round 2 looks from the from the front (on the left), and back (on the right). Notice how the top loops of round 1 have been pushed forward on the front.

Background round 3

Join your red yarn into one of the ch 1 spaces from round 2.

1. (Ch 5, dc 1) into the same ch space.
2. Dc 2 into the next ch space.
3. Dc 2 into the next ch space.
4. (Dc, ch 2, dc) into the next ch space.
5. Repeat steps 2 – 4 twice more.
6. Dc 2 into the next ch space.
7. Dc 2 into the next ch space.
8. Into the next ch space (which is where you started), and sl st into the 3rd st of the ch 5 to join.

Here’s how that looks from the front (left) and back (right):

Background rounds 4 – 6

1. (Sl st, ch 5, dc 2) into the first corner space.
2. Dc into all of the side spaces.
3. (Dc 2, ch 2, dc 2) into the other corner spaces.
4. And when you get back to the first corner space, dc and sl st into the 3rd st of the ch 5 to join.

After the 6th round I tied off my yarn and wove in the ends. But if you’d like a bigger square, simply add more rounds!

Snowflake round 2

Now when you look at the front of your square, the top loops of round 1 are pushed forwards.

Join your white yarn through the top loops of any stitch from round 1.

1. Ch 5, *dc, ch2* 11 times.
2. Sl st into 3rd st of the ch 5 to join.

Snowflake round 3

It looks like there’s still a long way to go, but in fact this is your final round! It’s worked into the chain spaces from the previous round, using an alternating pattern of single- and triple-picot stitch techniques.

1. Into the next chain space (sc, dc, ch 6, sl st into the 1st ch, ch 5*, sl st into the same space as the previous sl st, ch 5, sl st into the same space as the previous sl sts, dc, sc).
2. Into the following chain space, (sc, ch 3, sl st into the 1st ch, sc).
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 six times.
4. Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.

* Optional modification: Make the 3rd chain a slip stitch into the background of your square, to anchor the point in place. I prefer to keep the outline of my snowflake free, and the yarn I’m using is sturdy enough that the points don’t flop about, but anchoring the points is a good idea if your square is likely to be going through the laundry frequently. Try to catch a just single strand from the post of one of the double crochets.

Granny square complete!

This design really benefits from being blocked, and having the picot points on the snowflake gently stretched out to give them definition. To go the whole nine yards, I pin mine out on the ironing board, using some dress maker’s pattern paper to get the outside edges square, and lots of pins to draw out the snowflake shape.

Then I lightly steam it with the iron. Since my yarn is a synthetic blend (90% acrylic, 10% merino wool), it holds its shape really well after that.

I hope you have as much fun making your grannies as I did designing them – happy crocheting!

The post 3D Snowflake Granny Square Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

How cute is this 3D flower granny square? The simple six-petal outline of the flower is easy to make, and really effective. I love how it channels nostalgic florals, 1960’s flower power and the Irish fashion designer Orla Kiely in one big cheerful color-pop. It’s a perfect way of adding visual depth and tactile detail to granny squares, without gobbling up yarn (I’m looking at you bobble stitch).

How big is it?

My granny squares have 6 rounds, but round 3 (the petals) completely overlaps rounds 4 and 5. Made with dk yarn and a size F (4mm) hook, they measure 4” across (give or take a little, depending on the exact yarn you choose, and your tension). They’re just the right size and proportions for a granny square scarf or sweater. For a bigger project like a blanket, you could easily add a 7th (and 8th) round following the same pattern as round 6. It would add an extra inch to each side of your square, and also make the spaces between the flowers to scale with the size of your project.

3D flower granny square pattern

This pattern is written in standard US crochet terms. The stitches and their abbreviations you need to be familiar with are:

Ch chain
Dc double crochet
Bpdc back post double crochet
Dc-inc double crochet increase (make 2 dc in the same space)
Hdc half double crochet
Sk skip the next stitch from the previous round, and work into the one after
Sl st slip stitch

Rounds 1 & 2

Rounds 1 and 2 follow the basic formula for making a flat circle.

• To start: Using your flower color, either make a magic circle, or by make a chain of 4 stitches and join the first and last chains with a slip stitch.
• Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), dc 11, sl st to the top of the ch 3.
• Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), dc in to the same st, dc-inc 11, sl st into the top of the ch 3.

Round 3

It’s time to add some petals to your flower!

• *Sk 1, dc 6, sk 1, sl st 1* 6 times.

Round 4

Round 4 is made into the back of round 2:

• Sl st around the ch 3 at start of round 2: insert your hook from back to front on the right of the chain and front to back on the left of the chain, yarn over and complete your sl st.
• Ch 3.
• Moving clockwise, bpdc around next st from round 2, and ch 1.
• *Bpdc around the next st from round 2, bpdc around the next st from round 2 again, and ch1* 11 times
• Sl st into the top of the ch 3 from step 2.

Cut the yarn and weave in the ends. Here’s how we’re looking from the front (right) and back (left) now:

Round 5

The next round is worked into the ch 1 spaces from round 4.

• Join your background color yarn into one of the ch 1 spaces from round 4. (Ch 5, dc 3) into the same space.
• Hdc 3 into the next ch 1 space.
• Hdc 3 into the next ch 1 space.
• (Dc 3, ch 2, dc 3) into the next ch 1 space – this makes a corner.
• Repeat steps 2 – 4 twice more.
• Repeat steps 2 & 3.
• The next ch 1 space should be the same one you started in – dc 2 into it, and join the round with a sl st in the 3rd st of the ch 5.

Round 6 onwards

From now on, you granny square follows the same pattern as a regular solid granny square:

• Ch 5 and dc 2 into the corner space.
• Dc along the side of the square.
• (Dc 2, ch 2, dc 2) into the next corner space.
• Repeat steps 2 and 3 twice more.
• Dc along the final side.
• Dc into the corner space you started in, and sl st into the 3rd st of the ch 5 to join.

You can finish there, or add more rounds if you wish.

Done!

Cut the yarn, weave in the ends, and block your finished square. My top tip is to block them face down, to relax and flatten out the petals a bit (but don’t squash them!)

The post 3D Flower Granny Square appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

This treble cluster v-stitch granny square is quick and cosy to make up. In fact, using DK yarn it only takes 4 rounds to make a square 6″ (15cm) across. Since it uses pairs of treble crochet stitches in mini clusters, it’s also denser and warmer than using solo treble crochets. Overall, I’d say the weight of this square is pretty much equivalent to a traditional granny square – it’s a bit holey, but it’s not lacy. And I just love that little 8-point star in the middle! So it’s ideal for making throws, blankets, granny-square cardigans and scarves.

Mini treble cluster stitches

This square is based on mini clusters of treble crochet stitches. Usually cluster stitches consist of 3 to 5 stitches joined at the top and bottom, but I’m using just 2 trebles per cluster. I’m not sure if that has a proper crochet name, which is why I’ve settled on ‘mini cluster’! Here’s how I made them:

1. Yarn over the hook twice.
2. Insert hook into the next space indicated by the pattern, and draw through a loop of yarn.
3. Yarn over the hook and draw through two loops, twice. Two loops remaining on hook – left photo below.
4. Yarn over the hook twice.
5. Insert hook into the same space again, and draw through a loop of yarn.
6. Yarn over the hook and draw through two loops, twice. Three loops remaining on hook – center photo below.
7. Yarn over and drawn through all three loops – right hand photo below.

Besides these chunky Vs, in this pattern we’ll also be using regular treble crochet stitches, chain stitches, and slip stitches.

Treble cluster v-stitch granny square

Let’s dive into the pattern!

Round 1

Start you granny square using whatever method you prefer: either a magic circle, or 4 chain stitches joined in a loop with a slip stitch.

1. Ch 6 (represents 1 tr and 2 ch sts)
2. *TrCL, ch 2* seven times
3. Join with a slip stitch into the 4th st of the ch 6 at the start of the round.

Round 2

The main thing to remember in this round is don’t make any chain stitches when you’re moving from one chain space to the next.

1. Sl st into the chain space created by the ch 6 at the start of round 1
2. Ch 5 (represents 1 tr which will become half of a trCL, and 1 ch st which will end up in the center of a V)
3. In the same chain space (trCL, ch3, trCL, ch 1, trCL)
4. In the next chain space (trCl, ch 1, trCL)
5. In the next chain space (trCl, ch 1, trCL, ch3, trCL, ch 1, trCL)
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 twice more
7. (TrCL, ch 1, trCL) into the next chain space
8. Tr into the first chain space, and join with a slip stitch to the 4th st of the ch 5 from step 2.

Everywhere you’ve made a ch 3 will be a corner space in the next round.

Round 3

We started round 2 in a corner, but from now on the rounds begin part way down the side of your square.

1. Sl st into the chain space
2. Ch 5, (represents 1 tr which will become half of a trCL, and 1 ch st which will end up in the center of a V)
3. In the same chain space (trCL, ch1, trCL)
4. Corner space: (trCl, ch 1, trCL, ch3, trCL, ch 1, trCL)
5. In the next 3 chain spaces (trCL, ch1, trCL)
6. Repeat steps 3 and 4 twice more
7. Corner space: (trCl, ch 1, trCL, ch3, trCL, ch 1, trCL)
8. In the next 2 chain spaces (trCL, ch1, trCL)
9. Tr into the chain space where you started, and join with a slip stitch to the 4th st of the ch 5 from step 2.

Round 4 and onwards

I’m sure you can see the pattern now:

• Start with a slip stitch, chain 5, and one mini cluster into the first chain space.
• (TrCl, ch 1, trCL) into all the chain spaces along the sides.
• (TrCl, ch 1, trCL, ch3, trCL, ch 1, trCL) into each corner space.
• Finish with a treble crochet in the same chain space you started in, and slip stitch into the 4th stitch of the ch 5 to join.

I’ve made one more round then tied off and woven in the yarn ends, to produce a 6″ square in DK yarn:

And that’s all there is to it! I hope you’ll give this pattern a go, and enjoy working with it as much as I have!

The post Treble Cluster V-Stitch Granny Square appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

How cute is this crochet granny square slipper pattern?! They’re constructed from just six squares each, so they’re perfect for when you fancy making a granny square project, but you haven’t got the time or the will to embark on something big like a blanket. They’ve got a cosy homespun feel which really does feel like a warm hug for your toes, so they’re a fantastic gift too – for someone you love or just for you!

Getting the right size

Since these slippers have a soft sole, they’re a bit like socks when it comes to sizing. In other words, one size will fit several sizes of feet. If you follow this pattern exactly, the slippers will fit roughly ladies’ shoes size 6 – 9 (UK 4 – 7, EU 37 – 40). To make slippers outside of that size range, you’ll need to adapt the size of your granny squares. Don’t let that put you off though, it’s pretty straight forward to do, and I’m going to walk you through it step-by-step.

Basically, the diagonal size of your granny squares needs to be half the circumference of your foot at the widest point. Here’s a worked example of how to measure you feet and calculate the right granny square size for a perfect pair of custom made-to-measure slippers:

• Measure the circumference around the ball of your foot, right above the toes. My feet measure 9” (23cm) around this point.
• Divide that number in half. Which gives me 4½” (11.5cm). This is how big your granny squares need to be from corner to corner.

• It’s not all that intuitive to think about granny squares in terms of their diagonal size, so here’s a handy dandy online calculator for finding out how long the sides will need to be. From it I found out that the sides of my granny squares need to be approximately 3¼” (8.5cm).

My granny square pattern

Here’s the pattern I came up with to make granny squares the right size for my slippers. You can make small adjustments to the size of this pattern by making the 4th round in single crochet (for a smaller square) or double crochet (for a larger square). Or you can come up with your own design for a granny square the right size, and meet me again at the assembly stage!

Remember, you’ll need 12 squares in total – 6 per slipper. I used aran weight yarns in pink, off-white, gray marl, and brown. Rather than using the size H-8 (5mm) hook suggested by the wrapper, I opted for a size G-6 (4.5mm) hook. Your slippers will hold their shape better if the tension is sturdy – since I tend to crochet on the loose side I’ve sized down to

Round 1

Start however you like to start your granny squares – with a magic circle, or with four chain stitches joined in a loop with a slip stitch.

• Ch 3, dc 7, sl st into top of ch 3 to join.

Cut your yarn and weave in the ends.

Round 2

Join your next yarn color. This round consists of 8 cluster stitches of four double crochets, and the first one is worked a little bit differently to the rest.

For the first stitch:

1. Ch 3 – this creates the height you need to complete the round, and also counts as the first double crochet in the cluster.
2. Yarn over hook.
3. Insert hook into the same space you made the slip stitch join into.
4. Yarn over and pull through a loop (3 loops on hook).
5. Yarn over and draw through two loops (2 loops on hook).
6. Repeat steps 2 – 5 twice more (4 loops on hook – below left).
7. Yarn over and draw through all four loops (below center).
8. Ch 2 (below right).

For the rest of the stitches:

1. Yarn over hook.
2. Insert hook into the next space from round 1.
3. Yarn over and pull through a loop (3 loops on hook).
4. Yarn over and draw through two loops (2 loops on hook).
5. Repeat steps 1 – 4 three times (5 loops on hook – below left).
6. Yarn over and draw through all five loops (below center).
7. Chain 2 (below right).

After the last cluster stitch, chain 2 and join to the top of the first cluster stitch with a slip stitch. NOTE: The top of the stitch is the first chain you made to close the cluster, not the top of the ch 3. Cut the yarn, and weave in the ends.

* Only if you’re using half-double crochet for this round. If you’re using single or double crochet to modify the size of your square, work into every stitch of each side.

Cut your yarn, weave in the ends, and block your square. Make 11 more squares.

Crochet granny square slipper pattern: assembling stage

Squares made, it’s time to think about how you’re going to join them together. Here’s an illustration of how the squares are going to be pieced together:

I’ve labeled the corresponding sides, so 1a joins to 1a, and so on. Joins 1a and 1b can be made one after the other with without cutting the yarn in between. Joins 2a – 2d can also be made in one go, and likewise joins 3a – 3d.

Let’s start with the first join, along seams 1a and 1b.

I joined my granny squares mine using single crochet stitches – hold the squares right sides together, and insert the hook through the front and back loops of both squares. It’s a chunky join, which I love because it makes an aesthetic nod to moccasins. But I can feel the seams under my feet a bit, an if the thought of that puts you off, you could join your squares with a flat mattress stitch or whip stitch instead.

Adding the back of the heel

The next step is adding the back of the heel. Here’s a map for joining that square:

• When you get to corner A, place two stitches in the corner space of the heel square – one for each of the other squares.
• When you get to corner B, use three stitches to join the corner spaces, like this:

• The final edge between corner B and the arrow head joins to the edge marked by the star – make sure the wrong sides of your squares are facing each other!
• Treat corner B the same as corner A – make two stitches in the corner space of the heel square, one for each of the other squares.

Adding the last square

The sixth square sits on top of the foot.

If you fold in the side squares now, you can see now how that top square is going to join along all four edges.

• Start at the top corner that’s going to sit above the arch of the foot, and work along the first edge (I prefer to move clockwise, but it’s not important).
• In the next corner space make two stitches – one into the square that folds around the the side of the foot, and one into the square at the front of the sole.
• In the corner which forms the toe point, make three stitches into the corner space.
• And in the last corner space make two stitches – one into the square at the front of the sole and one into the square that folds around the the side of the foot.

When you get back to the corner you started in, don’t cut the yarn – you can dive straight into making the edging around the opening with it.

Adding a picot edging

This slipper is really starting to come together! Let’s add a picot edging around the opening, to give that edge a more polished look and tie it in with the seams. The edge is made in two rows, in a counter-clockwise direction. The direction is important to ensure to the little picot bobbles pop outwards, not inwards!

• The first row is straight forward single crochet all the way round the edge.
• The second row is a simple picot border based on a two-stitch repeat: sl st, dc. The short slip stitches push the tall double crochets outwards, making an attractive bobble edge.

Finish row two on a slip stitch, cut the yarn, and weave in all the ends from joining your squares.

Pompoms

The finishing touch on my slippers are some cute little pompoms. Not only do they look the part, they’re perfect for hiding the seam joins on the front of your slipper. Also if you’ve never made little pompoms on a fork before, prepare to discover a new crafting addiction!

• Cut a 4” piece of yarn and hold it between the second and third tines of a fork (top left above).
• Wrap yarn from the ball 20 – 30 times around all four tines.
• Cut the yarn, and use the 4” piece to make an overhand knot around the center of your pom pom (top right above).
• Poke the ends through to the other side of the fork, and tie two or three more knots to fully secure the center of the pompom (bottom left above).
• Slip the pompom off the fork and carefully cut all the loops so your pompom opens out. Trim it into shape, and repeat the steps to make a second.
• Make a chain of 12 stitches, and ties your pompoms to the ends (bottom right above).

Finally, use a short length of yarn to tie your pompoms to the front of your slipper.

Now make another one!

Repeat the whole process to make a second slipper, and then put them on and wear them with pride! Or in my case, notice them sneaking out of the room on the feet of my daughter. Luckily this quick and fun pattern is easy to make again and again! I hope you enjoy making it too.

The post Crochet Granny Square Slipper Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Welcome to my block stitch granny square pattern! Block stitch is one of my all-time favorite crochet stitches, ever since I used it to make a cot blanket for a dear friend’s first baby. For me it has just the right balance of pattern and simplicity. It’s pleasantly repetitive and meditative to work on, but not monotonous. And it’s great for making granny square projects that put a real dent in an overflowing yarn collection. You can use the colors you have a lot of for the background, colors you only have scraps of for the flecks, and colors you have a middling amount of for the border. That’s some pretty efficient stash busting!

Getting started

I’ve developed this pattern using DK yarn. It ought to work with any weight of yarn and an appropriately-size hook, but the relative height and width of your square might end up being a little bit different. Make up one square first, and use it to judge whether you need to add or remove stitches from your foundation row, or rows of stitches from the top of your square. Using DK yarn and a 4mm hook, my squares measure approximately 6” x 6” after blocking, but yours might be a little smaller or larger depending on the exact yarn you use, and your tension (I tend to crochet a little on the loose side).

Before I pick up my hook I also like to take some 1” snippets of the yarns I’m using, and check I’m happy with the order they’re going to go in. But you can skip this step if it doesn’t appeal to you!

Block Stitch Granny Square Pattern

This pattern uses standard American crochet terms. The only stitches you’ll need to know are:

Ch chain
Sc single crochet
Dc double crochet
Sl st slip stitch

Starting with your background color, make a foundation chain with a multiple of 3 chain stitches, plus 4. Using my foundation chain of 25 stitches as an example, here’s what they represent:

• 1 space for a single dc at the edge of your square (which will eventually be covered by the border)
• 7 multiples of 3 in the middle
• and 3 turning chains, which also count as a single dc at the opposite side of the square (and will also be covered by the border).

I’ve written it as a multiple of 3 plus 4, and not a multiple of 3 plus 1, to help you picture how adding more multiples of three will look. I hope it made sense!

1st Row

This pattern is dead simple to make, but a little tricky to explain in writing. So bear with me, and don’t worry, I’ve got lots of photos to help make everything clear!

Starting in the 4th chain from the hook, dc into every stitch of your foundation chain. After the final stitch, free your hook and put a stitch marker into the working loop – or just pull it through a bit further so it won’t unravel easily, like I’ve done in the photos coming up.

2nd row

It’s time to add the first row of colourful flecks.

• Choose which yarn you’re going to use, make a slip knot in it about 3” in from the end, and pop the loop onto your hook.
• Insert your hook into the space between the ch 3 and the first dc at the far right of row 1. Make a single crochet by drawing a loop of yarn through that space, then putting the yarn over the hook again and drawing it through both loops:

• Ch 2, then count 3 dc from the first row, and make another sc between the 3rd and 4th dc.
• *Ch 2, dc into the space between the next 3rd and 4th stitch from row 1* all the way along.

You’re not making the single crochets into the top of the stitches from row 1 here, rather the spaces in between them. Where you can see my finger peeping through in this photo!

When you get to the end of the row your last sc should be 1 dc away from the end of row 1. Put the working loop from the end of row 1 back on your hook (below left) and pull it through the working loop at the end of row 2 (below right).

Now you can cut the yarn you’ve used for row 2, leaving a 3” tail for weaving in later.

3rd row

Working with your background color again, ch 3 (represents 1 dc) and turn your work.

Make 3 dc into each of the ch 2 spaces from row 2 (indicated by the purple arrows below). At the end of the row, make 1 dc into the 3rd stitch of the turning chain from row 1 (indicated by the red arrow below).

Put a stitch marker in the last stitch, or pull through a generous loop, like at the end of row 1.

4th row onwards

Now it’s simply a case of repeating rows 2 and 3, until your square is approximately as tall as it is wide. Whenever granny squares are made in rows rather than rounds, it’s possible that the height and width won’t exactly match, so just get as close as you can. The only important thing is to finish on a background color row.

In total, my square has 8 background color (uneven-numbered) rows, and 7 fleck (even-numbered) rows.

At the end of your last row you’ll need to pause and weave in all those ends:

At this point you can either:

1. Cut the background color yarn and weave it in too.
2. OR, use the background color to make the border as well. This has the advantage of reducing the number of ends which ultimately need weaving in by two (don’t knock it – they add up!) And it’s also a good aesthetic choice if you don’t want your square to have the appearance of a border.

I’m going with option 1, so here’s my square right before I started adding a contrasting border.

Adding a border

I think block stitch granny squares work best with a border.

• It gives a bit more substance to the left and right edges of the square
• It makes the edges easier to join to each other.
• It’s a fun way to add another pop of color, and use up some more yarn from your stash.
• And a wisely chosen border color can really help unify some mis-matched fleck colors inside the square.

Here’s how to add one. If you’re using the same yarn you used for the background, just skip step 1:

1. Join your border color yarn into the top right hand corner space of your square.
2. Ch 5 (represents 1 dc and a 2 ch corner space), and dc 2 into the same corner space.
3. Dc into the top of each stitch along the top edge of your square.
4. At the next corner space (dc 2, ch 2, dc 2).
5. Working down the left hand edge of your square, dc 3 into the side of each background-colored row. With each alternate row you’ll either be making your stitches round the post of another dc, or around a turning chain.
6. At the next corner space (dc 2, ch 2, dc 2).
7. Dc into the other side of the foundation chain along the bottom edge of your square.
8. At the next corner space (dc 2, ch 2, dc 2).
9. Working up the right hand edge of your square, dc 3 into the side of each background-colored row.
10. When you get back to the first corner, dc into the corner space and sl st into the 4th st of the ch 5 to join. Cut the yarn and weave in the end.

Block your squares and show them off!

Your block stitch granny square is finished and ready for blocking. One square by itself can be a pretty coaster, placemat, or face cloth. Lots together work well for scatter pillow covers, and medium weight blankets.

The post Block Stitch Granny Square appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

A third loop only granny square is an easy but eye catching alternative to a regular solid granny square. It has an interesting three-dimensional texture, but without being bulky or heavy. So you can turn lots of them into a medium-weight blanket or throw for all seasons. Like any traditional granny square project, these squares are perfect for using up yarn scraps. But I think they look especially effective in just two colors, like this.

Choosing the yarn and hook

Third loop only granny squares are exceptionally versatile, and look good in almost any yarn. They don’t gobble up yarn like other grannies with interesting 3-dimensional textures, so you might even choose a more high-end or luxurious yarn, without fear of breaking the bank. That said, I’ve made these ones in Hayfield Soft Twist DK, a blend of 90% acrylic and 10% merino, twisted together using the S-on-S plying technique traditionally associated with merino yarns. It’s smooth, strong, and really budget friendly for big projects – I love it!

This pattern shouldn’t present any differences to your usual tension, so use whatever size hook you’d usually pair with the yarn you have picked out.

Getting started

Begin your granny square however you prefer. The options are:

• Magic circle (my preference)
• Making 4 chain stitches and joining them with a slip stitch to make a circle.
• Making 2 chain stitches and treating the first one (the one furthest from your hook) as the starting circle.

The rest of the pattern uses standard American crochet terms. There’s a guide to the basic stitches here if you need it.

Round 1

Into your circle:

• Ch 5 (represents 1 dc, and a two-chain corner space).
• *Dc 3, ch 2* 3 times
• Dc 2

Drop your yarn and pick up your next color. Using the new color:

• Slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the ch 5 from the start of the round.
• Slip stitch into the corner space.

Round 2

It’s time to introduce some third loop only crochet! The abbreviation to look out for is dc-3lo, which means make a double crochet stitch into the third loop only of the next stitch. Everything about the double crochet stitch itself is exactly the same as usual – it’s just the placement that changes. I’ve got a photo coming up to help with that if you haven’t tried third loop only crochet before.

• Ch 5, dc 1 into the corner space.
• Dc-3lo 3 into the stitches along the first edge. The back loop sits immediately below the back loop – insert your hook downwards into it as indicated by the arrows. In contrast to a regular double crochet, you’re only inserting the hook under one loop, not two.

• (Dc 1, ch 2, dc 1) into the next corner space.
• *Dc-3lo 3, (dc 1, ch 2, dc 1) into the corner space* twice more.
• Dc-3lo 2, then dc into the back loop of the second stitch of the ch 5 from the previous round.

• Drop your yarn and pick up with the next color.
• Sl st into the 3rd stitch of the ch 5 from the beginning of the round, and sl st again into the corner space.

Round 3

In round 3 the way we work the corners slightly changes, so take note of that. But this is round you’ll keep repeating from here on, so it’s all going to be super straightforward after this!

• Ch 5, dc 2 into the corner space.
• *Dc-3lo 5 into the stitches along the edge, (dc 2, ch 2, dc 2) into the corner space* 3 times.
• Dc-3lo 4, dc into the back loop of the second stitch of the ch 5 from the previous round, dc into the final chain space.
• Drop your yarn and pick up with the next color.
• Sl st into the 3rd stitch of the ch 5 from the beginning of the round, and sl st again into the corner space.

Round 4 onwards

Repeat as for round 3:

• Start with ch 5, dc 2 in the first corner space.
• Dc-3lo into all the edge stitches.
• (Dc 2, ch 2, dc 2) into the corner spaces.
• Finish with a dc into the back of the 2nd st of the ch 5 from the previous round, then a dc into the corner space.
• Change color, slip stitch into the 3rd st of the ch 5 from the start of the round, and sl st into the corner space.

At the end of your final round, don’t change color before the final step. Use the same color as the rest of the round, and only slip stitch once into the 3rd st of the ch 5 from the start of the round. Cut the yarn and pull the yarn tail right through the slip stitch, then get to work weaving in all those ends!

Finishing up

Third loop only granny squares really benefit from being blocked. I’m devoted to blocking my granny squares anyway, but if if you’re usually happy to skip it, well, don’t!

Check out the awesome texture – I think it really elevates these granny squares, without being any harder to make than a typical granny square. I hope you’ll enjoy making some of your own!

The post Third Loop Only Granny Square appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

This feather stitch granny square is a great alternative to using puff stitch, especially if, like me, you find getting the height of puff stitches consistent a bit of a drag. Feather stitches are based on half-double crochet, and the height between the rows creates a framework for perfectly even stitches which are also attractive to look at, and dense and squashy to touch. These feather stitch granny squares are ideal for making small baby blankets to use in prams and strollers in winter.

Choosing the best yarn and hook

Feather stitch looks effective in most woolen, bamboo, cotton or acrylic yarns. Steer clear of fluffy mohair-like yarns or bulky chenilles, because the beauty of the stitch will get lost in the texture of the yarn. They’ll also make it hard to see where to insert your hook. And finally make a test swatch first if you’re thinking of using anything heavier than a worsted or aran weight yarn. Feather stitch makes a thick fabric, and with bulky yarns, it can even end up too thick to be practical. So check what you’re letting yourself in for, and if it’s definitely the result you want.

If your tension is even a little on the tight side, I recommend going up a hook size to make sure your fabric doesn’t end up stiff. For the squares in these photos I used a 4.50mm (size H) hook, and DK acrylic and merino blend yarn.

Starting your feather stitch granny square

Feather stitch is worked in rows, so begin by making a foundation chain with an odd number of stitches. The number of feathers you’ll get in your row is equal to three less than the number of chains, divided by two. I like to start with a foundation chain of 17, which makes 7 feathers.

For granny squares made in rows, I like to work the first row into the back loops of the foundation chain. It’s not essential, but it leaves the two top loops free for easy joining later. To find the back loops just flip your chain over and you’ll see them running along the center of the underside of your chain.

Row 1

Rows 1 and 2 are a little different – and more fiddly – than rows 3 onwards. So just take heart that the difficult bit will be over quickly, and it is going to get easier!

Starting in the 3rd stitch from the hook, *hdc 1, ch 1* all the way along, finishing on a hdc. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 2

Skip the turning chain, and make an hdc into the top of the next stitch – which is the last hdc from row 1.

Now follow these steps:

• Yarn over the hook.
• Insert the hook into the chain space marked 1 in the photo.

• Yarn over the hook and pull through to the front.
• Yarn over the hook.
• Insert the hook into the stitch below that chain space, marked 2 in the photo.
• Yarn over and pull through the front.
• Yarn over the hook.
• Insert the hook into the next chain space, marked 3 in the photo.
• Yarn over and pull through to the front – you should have 7 loops on your hook now.
• Yarn over, and draw through all 7 loops.

Finally, make a chain stitch.

That’s one feather stitch! To make the next, repeat those steps, but now position 3 in the photo is the new position 1.

When you get to the end of the row, make your final feather stitch into positions 1, 2 and 3 indicated below. Don’t forget to close it with a chain stitch, then hdc into the top of the turning chain from your foundation row – marked 4 in the photo. Ch 1 to finish.

Row 3

Turn your work. Skip the ch 1 and make an hdc into the last hdc stitch of the previous row (marked 1 down below).

Markers 2 – 4 show where to make the first feather stitches, and markers 5 to 7 show where to make the second. Keep going to the end of the row, and finish with an hdc into the top of the hdc at the end of the row below.

Keep repeating row 3 until your square is as tall as it is wide.

Adding a double crochet border

I like to finish my feather stitch granny squares with a double crochet border. It’s optional, but there are the advantages:

• It looks attractive.
• It makes the squares easier to join together later.
• And it’s a quick way of boosting their size.

For all its beauty, feather stitch is not fast to work up. Which is why I usually save it for small projects like baby blankets. Adding a double crochet border to my squares is a quick way of getting them from just shy of 4” square, to nearly 5” square. Which is a surface area increase of nearly 50%, and in much less time than it would have taken to cover the same area with more feather stitch!

The method

Start by chaining 5, and making a double crochet into the corner space. This represents one double crochet on each edge, and a 2-chain corner space between them.

The number of stitches along the top and bottom edges of your work are equal to your foundation chain, less one. Which in my case is 16. So I need to fit 16 double crochets along the sides as well. There’s not really a lot of rhyme or reason to where you position them, as long as they look evenly spaced. I like to mark the center point so I know I need 8 stitches either side, and then eyeball it.

At the next corner (dc 1, ch 2, dc 1) into the space nearest the corner. Dc along the bottom edge of the square, (dc 1, ch 2, dc 1) into the closest space to the next corner, and keep working your way around until you’re back at the beginning. Slip stitch into the 3rd stitch of the chain 5 from the start of the round, cut your yarn, and pull the yarn tail right through the slip stitch.

You’re done!

Hey presto! Now it’s time to weave in the yarn ends and block your square, so it’s ready to use.

The post Feather Stitch Granny Square appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

I love this ribbed crochet granny square pattern – it’s chunky, cozy, and almost sculptural to look at. It’s great for all sorts of blanket, throw pillow, or granny square sweater projects. Combined together, these squares make a fabric which is quite heavy with a striking geometrical design. I think they really refute any suggestion that crochet can’t be masculine. A blanket made from these squares would be a great Father’s Day gift, or present for anyone who prefers modern design over fussy or delicate motifs.

Choosing your materials

This granny square design looks best after blocking, to get the linear pattern looking really sharp. So I recommend using a yarn with a bit of natural elasticity, like wool or acrylic. You get a bit more wiggle room with these fibers to make sure your pattern sits really square. Cottons and cotton blend fibers would be my second choice, and I’d steer clear from fluffy or chenille yarns altogether. There’s no point spending extra time making a ribbed pattern if the texture of the yarn is going to obscure the depth of the stitches!

Ribbed crochet granny square pattern

This pattern uses standard American crochet terms and abbreviations. You’ll need to know

Ch chain stitch
Dc doubcle crochet
Fpdc front post double crochet
Bpdc back post double crochet
Sl st slip stitch

If you’re unfamiliar with front post and back post double crochet, let’s take a closer look at those techniques. Click here to skip to the pattern if you already know them!

How to make a front post double crochet

There are several ways to make crochet ribbing, and here we’re going to do it by alternating front post and back post double crochets. Then in each subsequent round we’ll match the stitches to the round before. So front post double crochet in front post double crochet, and back post double crochet into back post double crochet.

To make either stitch, we need to take a quick look at the anatomy of a double crochet. There’s the front and back loops at the top, and underneath them there’s the oft-overlooked third loop – take a look and you’ll see! Then beneath those looks are the post – the bit of the double crochet stitch which gives it its height.

Normally we make a new stitch by inserting the hook under the front and back loops at the top of the stitch, but for a front post crochet we’re going to insert the hook around the post, like this (remember to put your yarn over the hook first!):

Now complete the rest of the double crochet stitch just like you usually would. Here’s what a finished fpdc looks like, when the other stitches around it a regular double crochets:

How to make a back post double crochet

A back post double crochet is just like a front post double crochet. Except instead of working around the post from the front, we’re going to work around the post from the back. So put your yarn over the hook, and taking care not to drop it move the hook to the back of your work. Insert the hook through to the front of your work to the right of the post of the next stitch, and then back through the back on the left hand side of the stitch.

Now finish the double crochet as normal.

I find back post double crochets take a bit of concentration at first. They’re really at odds with the rest of my crochet muscle memory. But with a pattern like this, they’ll quickly become second nature.

Starting your square

You can start your ribbed granny square any way you like

• with a magic circle…
• with four chain stitches joined with a slip stitch to make a loop…
• or by making two chain stitches, and working the first round into the furthest chain from the hook.

Round 1

Ch 4, *dc 3, ch 2* 3 times, dc 2, sl st into the 3rd st of the ch 4 to close. Sl st again into the corner space. You’ve got three sides comprising 3 dcs, a 4th side comprising 2 dcs and 3 of the chain stitches, and 4 corner spaces.

Round 2

Ch 4, dc into the corner space. Fpdc, bpdc, fpdc along the first side. *(Dc, ch 2, dc) into the next corner space, fpdc, bpdc, fpdc along the next side* 3 times. Sl st into the 3rd st of the ch 4 to close, and sl st again into the corner space.

Round 3

Ch 4, dc into the corner space. Bpdc, fpdc, bpdc, fpdc, bpdc along the first side. *(Dc, ch 2, dc) into the next corner space, bpdc, fpdc, bpdc, fpdc, bpdc along the next side* 3 times. Sl st into the 3rd st of the ch 4 to close, and sl st again into the corner space.

Round 4

Ch 4, dc into the corner space. Fpdc, bpdc, fpdc, bpdc, fpdc, bpdc, fpdc along the first side. *(Dc, ch 2, dc) into the next corner space, fpdc, bpdc, fpdc, bpdc, fpdc, bpdc, fpdc along the next side* 3 times. Sl st into the 3rd st of the ch 4 to close, and sl st again into the corner space.

Round 5 onwards

Now the pattern is established it’s easy to keep going.

• Start every new round with 4 chain stitches and a double crochet into the corner space.
• Alternate front post and back post double crochets along the sides, matching the stitch to the one below.
• Dc, ch 2, dc in every corner space.
• Finish each round by slip stitching into the 3rd of the 4 chain stitches, and slip stitching again into the corner space.

Finishing off

Finish on an even-numbered round – I’ve made 8 rounds in total. At the end of your last round, slip stitch to close, but don’t make the second slip stitch into the corner space. Cut your yarn and weave the end securely into your square. Another great thing about this design is that it’s really quick and easy to hide the yarn tails inside the ribs!

Here’s how the back and front of a finished ribbed granny square look. They’re not quite identical, but they’re close enough that you won’t need to worry about a blanket having a right way up.

And that’s everything I have to share with you about ribbed granny squares – have fun!

The post Ribbed Crochet Granny Square Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Basket weave stitch is a brilliant choice for making warm, snuggly granny square projects, like blankets and throw pillows. It’s denser and warmer than a simple solid granny square. It doesn’t gobble up yarn like a bobble stitch granny square. It’s reversible, unlike a waffle stitch granny square. And it lends itself really well to working in rounds rather than rows. What more could you ask?

Your first basket weave stitch crochet granny square might feel a little bit mind bending to get started. Especially if you haven’t used back post double crochet stitch much in the past. But once you’re four rounds in, I guarantee you’ll be flying. And I’ve got lots of detailed illustrations to help you master the techniques involved.

Choosing your supplies

Picking the right yarn for a granny square is like matching different pasta shapes with the right type of sauce. Either you don’t worry about it at all, or you take it very seriously indeed. I’m pretty sure there is no middle ground! The beauty of basket weave stitch is in its texture – front post and back post double crochets combine to create an illusion of overlapping rows that weave in and out of each other. To show off the results to best effect, use smooth yarns like bamboos, cottons, or S on S plied wools and synthetic fibers.

I’ve used Hayfield’s Soft Twist yarns to make the squares in the photos accompanying this article – it’s an S on S plied acrylic/merino wool blend. S on S is a specific method of twisting yarn together to produce a very smooth surface. There’s not much point making this pattern in a fluffy yarn, which will hide the texture of the stitches! I used to be quite snooty about yarns spun from mostly synthetic fibers, but this one is soft, washable, strong, and budget friendly. I am a convert!

Since basket weave stitch is dense, I also recommend making it with a hook one size larger than the yarn wrapper recommends, so your squares don’t end up stiff. Soft Twist is a DK yarn, and I used a size G (4.5mm) hook.

The crochet terms you’ll need to know

This pattern uses standard American crochet terms. To make a basket weave granny square, you’ll be following these abbreviations:

Ch chain stitch
Dc double crochet
Fpdc front post post double crochet – full instructions coming up
Bpdc back post double crochet – obviously I have instructions for this too!
Sl st slip stitch

I’ll also be using brackets and asterisks in the pattern. When multiple stitches appear in brackets, like this

(dc 2 ch 1, dc 2)

it means you should make them all into the same space.

When multiple stitches appear inside asterisks, it means you’re going to repeat them – the pattern will tell you how many times. For example ‘*dc 1, ch 1* three times’ means dc 1, ch 1, dc 1, ch 1, dc 1, ch 1.

How to front post double crochet (fpdc)

The regular way of making double stitches in crochet is by putting the yarn over the hook, and inserting the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch from the previous row or round. For a front post double crochet we’re going to put the yarn over the hook as usual, then insert the hook behind the post of the stitch below, from right to left (or left to right, if you’re left handed).

Make sure you’re getting round the post, and not catching the front or back loop at the top, or the 3rd loop, which sits just below them. Then continue making a double crochet stitch exactly as you normally would: yarn over again and pull through, yarn over and pull through two loops, yarn over and pull through the last two loops.

Here’s how a fpdc looks when it’s finished. See how it stands proud from the regular double crochets around it?

How to back post double crochet

Have you ever tried folding your arms the wrong way round? If you haven’t tried making a back post double crochet before, that’s exactly how it feels the first time! We’re working around the post of the stitch below again, but this time we’re going to move the hook behind our work, insert it through to the front on the right side of the post, and push it back through to the back on the left side of the post. Which looks like this:

It’s not much of a photo!

Then finish the double crochet as usual, and the result will look like this:

If you flip it over, the other side looks like a fpdc. And likewise, the reverse of a fpdc looks like a bpdc.

Basket weave stitch crochet granny square pattern

This pattern makes a granny square approximately 5” x 5” (12cm x 12cm) after blocking, when worked on a size G hook with DK yarn. The exact dimensions of your square may vary depending on your yarn, and tension. Try to think loose thoughts, so your square doesn’t end up feeling rigid and lacking in drape!

Start however you prefer to start your granny squares: with a magic circle, four chains joined in a loop with a slip stitch, or by chaining 2 and working into the chain furthest from the hook.

Rounds 1 and 2 don’t follow quite the same pattern as round 3 onwards. After round 3, everything gets much more predictable!

Round 1

Ch 3, dc 2, *ch 2, dc 3* 3 times, ch 1, sl st into the top of the ch 3 to close.

Round 2

Ch 1 (make it fairly loose), fpdc around ch 3, fpdc 2, *(dc 2, ch 1, dc 2) into the corner space, fpdc 3* 3 times, (dc 2, ch 1, dc 2) into the final corner space, sl st into the first fpdc to close.

Round 3

Ch 1, bpdc 3 (watch out for the third loop of the first stitch, it tends to get in the way), fpdc 2, *(dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the corner space, fpdc 2, bpdc 3, fpdc 2* 3 times, (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the final corner space, fpdc 2, sl st into the first bpdc to close.

Round 4

From now on, the pattern starts to get easier to anticipate.

Ch 1, fpdc 3, bpdc 3, *(dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the corner space, bpdc 3, fpdc3, bpdc 3* 3 times, (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the final corner space, bpdc 3, sl st into the first fpdc to close.

Round 5

Ch1, bpdc 3, fpdc 3, bpdc 1 *(dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the corner space, bpdc1, fpdc 3, bpdc 3, fpdc 3, bpdc 1* 3 times, (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the final corner space, bpdc 1, fpdc 3, sl st into the first bpdc to close.

Round 6

Ch 1, fpdc 3, bpdc3, fpdc2, *(dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the corner space, fpdc 2, bpdc 3, fpdc 3, bpdc 3, fpdc 2* 3 times, (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the final corner space, fpdc 2, bpdc 3, sl st into the first fpdc to close.

Round 7

Ch 1, bpdc 3, fpdc 3, bpdc 3, *(dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the corner space, bpdc 3, fpdc 3, bpdc 3, fpdc 3, bpdc 3* 3 times, (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the final corner space, bpdc 3, fpdc 3, sl st into the first bpdc to close.

To finish, cut the yarn leaving a 4″ tail, and pull the tail right through the last slip stitch. Thread it onto a darning needle and hide it inside the stitches of your square, changing directions once or twice so it can’t work free again. Here’s how the front and reverse of your finished square will look:

As you can see, they’re not quite identical in the center, but they’re much more reversible than say waffle stitch, or bobble stitch.

Going bigger

Hopefully now you can predict the pattern to keep making your square bigger if you wish. You could even keep going until you have a whole blanket made from one giant granny square.

• Along the sides of your square, always make front post double crochets and back post double crochets in groups of three.
• Except at the corners where the number of fpdcs or bpdcs next to the corner space will change with each row.
• Always make (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the corner spaces.

How to recognize where you are in the pattern

In each round, you’re making front post double crochets into the back post double crochets of the previous round, and vice versa. If you ever pick up your square, and you’re not sure where you’re at, here’s a handy-dandy reminder:

And with that, I’ve said everything I have to say about basket weave stitch crochet granny squares. I hope you have fun making them – happy hooking!

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