The Stitches

• moss stitch
• ch – chain
• sc – single crochet
• sk – skip
• slst – slip stitch
• cc – color change

What You’ll Need

I used Bernat Maker yarn for this project, but any high cotton yarn will give you a nice finish. Bernat Maker is chunky yarn that is a blend of 75% cotton and 25% nylon if you want a close match in terms of fiber.

• 200g green chunky cotton blend yarn
• 200g blue chunky cotton blend yarn
• 200g yellow chunky cotton blend yarn
• 200g cream chunky cotton blend yarn
• 5.5mm crochet hook
• yarn needle

Watch Out!

You might notice a small mistake in the images I’ve shared here. When moving between rows for the lower blue section, I forgot to slip stitch and turn to begin the next row, and instead just chained up. The bumpy section you can see in the image is the result. I didn’t notice for ages and didn’t want to frog when I did, hence you’ll see that imperfection. Don’t be like me, don’t use a turning chain for moss stitch in rounds to avoid this little lumpy issue!

My Free Crochet Beach Bag Pattern

Begin crocheting in your yellow yarn.

Row 1

ch70

Row 2

This row is going to be worked around the chain to make the base of the bag.

sk2, 2sc, 1sc x 67, 3sc, 1sc x 67, slst into the top of the starting chain two.

Row 3

ch3, sk1, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain.

Row 4 – 6

From this row onward all sc will be made into the following chain gap.

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

Cut off a loose end and tie off

cc cream

Row 7 – 10

Start from a chain gap at the edge of the bag.

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

Cut off a loose end and tie off

cc green

Row 11 – 12

Start from a chain gap at the edge of the bag.

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

Cut off a loose end and tie off

cc cream

Row 13 – 15

Start from a chain gap at the edge of the bag.

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

cc to blue

Row 16 – 20

Start from a chain gap at the edge of the bag.

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

cc to yellow

Row 21 – 22

Start from a chain gap at the edge of the bag.

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

cc to cream

Row 23 – 25

Start from a chain gap at the edge of the bag.

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

cc to green

Row 26 – 32

Start from a chain gap at the edge of the bag.

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

cc to yellow

Row 33 – 35

Start from a chain gap at the edge of the bag.

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

cc to blue

Row 36

Start from a chain gap at the edge of the bag.

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

cc to cream

Row 37 – 41

Start from a chain gap at the edge of the bag.

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

cc to blue

Row 42 – 44

Start from a chain gap at the edge of the bag.

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

cc to cream

Row 45 – 46

Start from a chain gap at the edge of the bag.

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

cc to yellow

Row 47

Start from a chain gap at the edge of the bag.

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

cc to green

Row 48 – 52

Start from a chain gap at the edge of the bag.

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

cc to cream

Row 53 – 55

Start from a chain gap at the edge of the bag.

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

cc to blue

Row 56

Start from a chain gap at the edge of the bag.

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

cc to yellow

Row 57 – 63

Start from a chain gap at the edge of the bag.

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

cc to cream

Row 64 – 65

Start from a chain gap at the edge of the bag.

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

cc to blue

Row 66

Start from a chain gap at the edge of the bag.

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

cc to green

Row 67 – 68

Start from a chain gap at the edge of the bag.

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain.

Now take your yarn needle, and use it to weave in the loose ends from each color change. Try to weave into the same colored stitches as the yarn you are hiding, to get the best results.

Crocheting Your Bag Strap

Begin working in your green yarn with your 5.5mm crochet hook.

Row 1

ch 350

Row 2

sk3, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a sc into the last chain

cc yellow

Row 3

*(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

cc cream

Row 4 – 5

*(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

cc blue

Moss Stitch Crochet Pillow Pattern

This pattern is crocheted as two separate sides, which you will hand sew together when you’ve finished.

What You’ll Need

• 5.5mm crochet hook
• 300g chunky yellow yarn
• 300g chunky cream yarn
• Yarn needle
• Cushion filler or toy safe stuffing

I used Bernat Maker yarn for my cushion, it’s 75% cotton and 25% nylon. If you use a plush yarn you might find you need to use a cushion pad rather than stuffing as it won’t give quite such closer stitches.

The Stitches

• ch – chain
• sc – single crochet
• sk – skip
• cc – color change

Side 1 – thin stripes

Row 1

ch74

Row 2

sk3, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a sc into the last chain

Row 3 – 5

ch2, then sc, ch1 into each chain space of the row, until the last stitch where you will make 1sc

cc yellow

Row 6

ch2, then sc, ch1 into each chain space of the row, until the last stitch where you will make 1sc

cc cream

Row 7 – 11

ch2, then sc, ch1 into each chain space of the row, until the last stitch where you will make 1sc

cc yellow

Row 12

ch2, then sc, ch1 into each chain space of the row, until the last stitch where you will make 1sc

Row 13 – 77

Repeat rows 7 – 12.

Side 2 – thick stripes

Row 1

ch74

Row 2

sk3, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a sc into the last chain

Row 3 – 5

ch2, then sc, ch1 into each chain space of the row, until the last stitch where you will make 1sc

cc yellow

Row 6 – 9

ch2, then sc, ch1 into each chain space of the row, until the last stitch where you will make 1sc

cc cream

Row 10 – 13

ch2, then sc, ch1 into each chain space of the row, until the last stitch where you will make 1sc

cc yellow

Row 14 – 76

Repeat rows 6 – 15

What I Used

I used two skeins of Bernat maker yarn for this pattern, which wasn’t perhaps a yarn you’d naturally go to for a bag. It’s got a little bit of stretch, but this actually makes it ideal for a shopping bag that is going to need a little bit of give to easily accomodate the weird and wonderful purchases you’ll make from the store.

• 6.5mm crochet hook
• 2 skeins of Bernat Maker yarn*
• Large yarn needle

*If you don’t want to use Bernat maker than select 500g of another similar fiber – this is 72% Cotton to 28% Nylon, in the same chunky/bulky weight.

The Stitches

You’ll need to be familiar with the following stitches and their abbreviations. And do be aware that these front post crochets are made dropped (in the style of alpine stitches), so you will work them two rows below your current round, not one.

• ch – chain
• sk – skip
• sc – single crochet
• slst – slip stitch
• BLO – back loop only
• hdc – half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• fpdc – front post double crochet

Crochet Tote Bag Pattern

This pattern is worked from the base in rounds, starting with a chain. You’ll work your second row into both sides of the chain, following it around to create the continuous pattern.

Round 1

ch46

Round 2

sk1, 1sc x 44, 3sc (made into the end chain), 1sc x 44, 3sc, slst to top of starting skipped stitch.

Round 3

ch1, 1sc x 45, 3sc, 1sc x 45, 3sc, slst

Round 4

ch1, 1sc BLO x 96, slst

Round 5 – 8

ch2, 1hdc x 96, slst

Round 9 – 10

ch1, 1sc x 96, slst

Round 11

ch2, 1dc x 96, slst

Round 12

ch1, 1sc x 96, slst

Round 13

ch2, dc into the first stitch, then (fpdc into the dc two rows down. sk the next stitch, then dc into the following). Repeat for the length of the round from *, then slst to join

Round 14

ch1, 1sc x 96, slst

Round 15

ch2, *(fpdc into the dc two rounds down, then dc into the next stitch (skipping the stitch above the fpdc again)). Repeat from * for the length of the round, then slst to join.

Round 16 – 17

ch1, 1sc x 96, slst

Round 18 – 19

ch2, 1hdc x 96, slst

Round 20-21

ch1, 1sc x 96, slst

Round 22 – 41

Repeat from round 11 onwards twice

Round 42

ch2, 1dc x 96, slst

Round 43

ch1, 1sc x 96, slst

Round 44

ch2, dc into the first stitch, then (fpdc into the dc two rows down. sk the next stitch, then dc into the following). Repeat for the length of the round from *, then slst to join

Crocheting the Handle

You are going to make the handle in the exact same way, using a section of the pattern for the main body, just a lot longer and worked in rows instead of rounds.

Round 1

ch300

Round 2

ch1, 1sc x 96, slst

Round 3

ch2, 1dc x 96, slst

Round 4

ch1, 1sc x 96, slst

Round 5

ch2, dc into the first stitch, then (fpdc into the dc two rows down. sk the next stitch, then dc into the following). Repeat for the length of the round from *, then slst to join

Round 6

ch1, 1sc x 96, slst

Round 7

ch2, *(fpdc into the dc two rounds down, then dc into the next stitch (skipping the stitch above the fpdc again)). Repeat from * for the length of the round, then slst to join.

Round 8

ch1, 1sc x 96, slst

Crochet Headband

If you want something for your head but with a bit more substance, then why not go with a headband. All of the headbands I’ve made recently have made use of waffle stitch, which is famously not the fastest, but we’ve got narrow versions which are quicker to work up and wider ones which will take a little while longer. But still, if you are a confident crocheter I reckon you could knock one out in less than an hour.

Daisy crochet bracelet

The next few are going to be quite floral, so I hope that’s your cup of tea!

I made this daisy bracelet on a bit of a whim a few months ago, and when I finished I made another tiny version for my five year old niece. The flowers are a little bit of fine work, and you will need some hand sewing, but again depending on the size of your wrist an hour or so should be ample time.

Flower bookmark

Probably the flowery project I was the most pleased with but got the least use out of is this bookmark. I am a serial page folder, seemingly much to the rage of anyone who notices me doing it. I love reading and I’m challenging myself to doom scroll less and read even more this year, but my goodness do people get their knickers in a twist when they see how I treat my books. So anyway, I made some cute bookmarks. I was really pleased with how they turned out. But have I used them… Well, you can guess.

Crochet Flowers

Sticking firmly with flowers, we’ve got these three beauties. So I made these a long time ago and the daffodil in particular is now looking a bit wan. I made them with acrylic yarn, when I make them again I’ll use a cotton blend instead so they last a bit longer with their heads held high, but they are pretty quick makes and you can do a bunch if you’ve got a fast enough hook!

Crochet Keychains

Finally we’ve got a few different stitch based keychains. These are great if you are short on time, or just as an excuse to practice those techniques a little in between bigger projects.

Beyond Color Theory

And I think it’s important to note that not everyone sees or experiences colors the same way. This isn’t about color theory, it’s about working out what fits with your style and your crochet plans. You might love a good clash and combination of different shades. And what is great about my methodology, is that you can still use it if your color choices are more unique, to get just what you want too.

But first things first – if you have always struggled with colors, then you don’t have to go it alone.

Color Planning Made Easy

If you are not a natural with crochet colors, then there are some great shortcuts to brilliant combinations.

Manufacturers sell color packs

Great for beginners and those who want effort free palettes, color packs are often produced by manufacturers either as a set of well matched yarns or with a pattern attached that you can use them to create.

They tend to be a cheaper way to buy multiple colors of yarn too, because the cost is often a little less than buying those skeins individually.

Same brand, same line

Not all yarn manufacturers do set color packs, but they do mostly tend to have color themes in their particular lines. So for example, Hobbii has a Cosy line of yarn which I use a lot, and I find that whichever yarns I pick from it they look pretty good together.

Variegated yarns

Some yarn skeins have multiple colors in one. These can be in blocks of color or in more of a gradient style, but either way they are great, easy, cohesive ways of adding several colors to a single project.

Copy the designer

If the pattern you are following has the yarns specified, then using them is of course going to be the best way to get the exact same finish as the pattern designer.

Blank backgrounds

One of my favorite ways to make use of various colors without worrying about how well they match, is to work on a project with a large area of white space. Having several rounds of white between each different color gives enough space to make pretty much any shade look nice in the same project.

My Crochet Colors Method

I have quite a strong system for selecting crochet colors, and I’ve been using it for several years now. It’s only when I don’t bother to do what I usually do, that things start to look a bit funky.

Before I begin any new project, I ask myself a few questions to help my color choices.

What is the purpose?

If it is going in a certain room of your house, do you want it to match the colors there? If it’s going to be worn, what colors look good on you? Knowing the purpose of the project can give you some huge hints on which colors will be the best.

Is it a gift?

The inclination to create something in colors I want, even when I know it’s for someone else, is almost overpowering. But I do try really hard to put myself in their shoes, and I’m sure you do too.

If you are crocheting a gift, remember to ignore your personal taste and only think about theirs. No matter how much it hurts…

Choose one color first

Stitch Anatomy

Make a row of crochet stitches, and look straight downwards at it. Ideally this will be a row of single or double crochets worked into a chain.

You can see two main loops that make up each of the stitches when observed from above. The closest to you is known as the front loop, the furthest away if the back loop.

Back Loop Only Crochet Pillow Pattern

A great way to practice this technique is with my simple pillow pattern. You will need:

• 200g green chunky yarn
• 200g white chunky yarn
• 100g blue chunky yarn
• 6mm crochet hook
• Yarn needle
• 30 x 30 inch cushion pad

The stitches you’ll need to use are:

• ch – chain
• sc – single crochet
• dc – double crochet
• BLO – back loop only
• cc – change color

Single Crochet Back Loop Only

Begin working in your green chunky yarn.

Row 1

ch 41

Row 2

sk1, sc BLO x 40

cc white

Row 3

ch1, sc BLO x 40

cc green

Row 4

ch1, sc BLO x 40

cc white

Row 5 – 46

Repeat row 3 – 40 until you reach the top of the cushion cover.

Double Crochet Back Loop Only

Begin working in your green yarn.

Row 1

ch42

Row 2

sk2, dc BLO x 40

Row 3 – 7

ch2, dc BLO x 40

cc white

Row 8 – 13

ch2, dc BLO x 40

cc blue

Row 14 – 19

ch2, dc BLO x 40

cc green

Row 20 – 25

ch2, dc BLO x 40

Where to Hook

When you make a standard crochet stitch, you work your hook under and through the set of two loops at the top of the stitch you made in the previous round or row. With front loop only (often abbreviated to FLO) you work only into the loop nearest to you.

Let’s practice.

FLO Sample

Make a chain of about ten loops, then make a single crochet into each stitch.

Turn and hold the crocheted fabric so that you can see the top edge of the stitches. You’ll see each stitch has two upper loops, one nearer to you and another further away.

The loop nearest to you is the front loop.

To crochet into the front loop, insert your hook underneath it and out of the center of the stitch, as shown by the arrows in the image here:

This stitch creates a very similar appearance to a standard crochet stitch, but with an extra line across the crocheted material which is left by the loops that were not worked into.

Front Loop Only Crochet Pillow Pattern

So now let’s practice working into the front and back loops, with a crochet pillow pattern I created recently. It will really highlight how different these stitches are, and keep your interest as you switch back and forth.

What you’ll need

• 5mm crochet hook
• 100g cream DK yarn
• 50g dark pink DK yarn
• 50g light pink DK yarn
• 50g white DK yarn
• 50g oat DK yarn
• 50g brown DK yarn
• 30 inch cushion pad
• Yarn needle

The Stitches

• ch – chain
• sc – single crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• FLO – front loop only
• BLO – back loop only
• cc – change color

The front panel is just front loop only, so we’ll start there.

Front Panel

Begin in your dark pink yarn.

Row 1

ch52

Row 2

sk2, 1dc x 50

Row 3

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

cc cream

Row 4 – 7

ch2, 1hdc FLO x 50

cc light pink

Row 8 – 13

ch1, 1sc FLO x 50

cc white

Row 14 – 15

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

cc dark pink

Row 16 – 19

ch2, 1hdc FLO x 50

cc cream

Row 20 – 25

ch1, 1sc FLO x 50

cc light pink

Row 26 – 27

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

cc white

Row 28 – 31

ch2, 1hdc FLO x 50

cc dark pink

Row 32 – 37

ch1, 1sc FLO x 50

cc cream

Row 38 – 39

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Back Panel

Begin in the oat yarn

Row 1

ch52

Row 2

sk2, 1dc x 50

Row 3 – 4

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 5 – 6

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

cc brown

Row 7 – 8

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 9 – 10

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

cc cream

Row 11 – 12

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 13 – 14

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

cc oat

Row 15 – 16

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 17 – 18

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

cc brown

Row 19 – 20

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 21 – 22

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

cc cream

Row 23 – 24

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 25 – 26

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

cc oat

Row 27 – 28

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 29 – 30

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

cc brown

Row 31 – 32

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 33 – 34

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

cc cream

Row 35 – 36

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 27 – 38

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

cc oat

Row 39 – 40

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 41 – 42

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

cc brown

Row 43 – 44

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 45 – 46

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

cc cream

Row 47 – 48

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 49 – 50

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

cc oat

Row 51 – 52

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 53 – 54

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

cc brown

Row 55 – 56

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 57 – 58

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

cc cream

Row 59 – 60

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 61 – 62

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

Camel Stitch Crochet Pillow Pattern

To create this pillow I used two skeins of white chunky yarn and one skein of variegated yellow, white and grey chunky yarn, with a 6mm crochet hook. You’ll also need a 30 inch cushion pad or some stuffing, and a yarn needle.

This is a two sided pattern, one side was made in one piece, the other I hand sewed together four panels.

Front Panel

The front panel was made in two stages. The first was worked as rows of camel stitch, made in the variegated yarn.

Row 1

ch42

Row 2

sk2, hdc x 40

Row 3

ch2, hdc into the third loop only x 40

Row 4

ch2, hdc into the back loop only

Row 5 – 28

Repeat rows 3 and 4

Row 29

ch2, hdc into the back loop only

The Border

You are now going to finish this side of the pillow by crocheting around the camel stitch section using standard half double crochets. Work this section in your white chunky yarn.

Round 1 – 5

Begin in a corner. Make 3hdc into each corner, and 1hdc into each edge stitch around the square of camel stitch.

Back Panel

I made this section in four parts. Create two with your white yarn and two with the variegated yarn.

Row 1

ch32

Row 2

sk2, hdc x 30

Row 3

ch2, hdc into the third loop only x 30

Row 4

ch2, hdc into the back loop only

Row 5 – 22

Repeat rows 3 and 4

Blocking

I highly recommend blocking your sections before you sew them, because these stitches do have a tendency to curl especially at the edges.

I chose to iron these pieces down rather than to pin them on a blocking board, because it’s quicker and I am familiar with the yarn and confident that it can stand up to the heat!

How To Make A Front Post Double Crochet

Traditionally, crochet stitches are worked into the top of the stitch. The two most prominent loops from the stitches of the previous round. Front post crochet works into the front of the stitch from the previous row, around the long body of the stitch.

This image shows a needle marking where I am going to insert my hook to make the front post double crochet.

Let’s practice by making a little sample.

• ch – chain
• sk – skip
• dc – double crochet
• fpdc – front post double crochet

Row 1

chain 14

Row 2

sk2, dc x 12

Row 3

ch2, *(fpdc x 1, dc x 1). Repeat from * until the end of the row.

Row 4

ch2, 1dc x 12

Row 5 – 10

Repeat rows 3 and 4

The Pillow Pattern

This pillow is worked in one long strip, which you will fold and then sew down the final three sides to join. For those who aren’t such big fans of hand sewing, it will have a very similar effect if you decide to crochet the sides together instead.

Row 1

ch61

Row 2

sk2, 1dc x 59

Row 3

ch1, 1sc x 59

Row 4

ch2, dc into first stitch, sk the next sc, instead making a fpdc into the dc stitch two rows down. dc into the next sc. *sk, fpdc into the next but one dc two rows below, dc into the next stitch. Repeat from * until the end of the row.

Row 5

ch1, 1sc in every stitch of the row

Row 6

ch2, dc in every stitch of the row

Row 7

ch1, 1sc in every stitch of the row

Row 8 – 69

Repeat rows 4 – 7

No Effort Color Changes

I think it’s fair to say that many people use multi colored yarn to avoid color changes. Or just because they love that combined palette finish! I use mainly brightly colored variegated yarns for blankets, throw pillows, bags and other home decor items or accessories. But it can also be lovely for small accessorie style items like hair scrunchies and keychains.

Adding Texture

The other way I love to use variegated yarn is to give a sense of texture to my crocheted creatures. Flecked or speckled style variegated yarn can be absolutely fantastic for this sort of project. Greys and browns make lovely fur for plushies, but I really love it when the yarn has these extra tones that can help to bring out the impression of hair or feathers. Conversely it’s also a really fun way to add a fantasy twist to your project, when you use multi-colored yarn with bright or unnatural shades.