Hello and welcome to my quick guide to making ripple stitch and wave stitch granny squares. Ripple stitch and wave stitch patterns are gorgeously curvy and undulating. When you use them inside granny squares, they provide a striking visual contrast to the straight edges and sharp corners of the square itself. Perfect for making eye-catching blankets, throw pillows or tote bags! I also love them for how meditative they are to make – they are simple enough to let your mind wander at the same time, but not so basic as to be monotonous to work on.

Take me straight to the patterns!

I’ve got some pretty nerdy things to say about adapting ripple stitch and wave stitch pattern for use on a granny square scale. And I’m going to share them all, so that you can get the best out of these patterns, and even adapt them for your own project if you need to. But if you don’t want to read them, these links will take your straight to the patterns:

• Simple ripple pattern granny square
• 3D ripple granny square
• Simple wave pattern granny square – single row repeat
• Improved wave pattern granny square – two row repeat

Ripple stitches and wave stitches

First things first, what are ripple stitches, what are wave stitches, and how do you tell them apart?

Using wave stitch and ripple stitch in granny squares

Variations of wave stitch and ripple stitch have existed in crochet for a loooooooong time. They’re popular choices for blankets, because they’re simple to make, but produce visually arresting results. And there are literally hundreds of tutorials for replicating the classic ripple stitch pattern and wave stitch pattern elsewhere online. But I’m interested in how to get the most out of them on a small scale, in granny squares. If you’re planning a granny square project using ripple or wave patterns, there are a few things to consider:

1. Scale

Ripple and wave patterns are usually based on a repeating pattern of 14 stitches (give or take). But a traditional 4” granny square made in DK yarn is usually only about 16 stitches across. So you won’t get enough pattern repeats for the ripples or waves to really reveal themselves. To achieve a more effective result, you either need to make bigger than usual squares, or adapt the pattern to fit more ripples or waves into the same space.

Coming up down below is my solution for fitting a nice tight ripple or wave pattern into a standard granny square. It’s all about matching the scale of the pattern to the size of the square!

2. Pattern placement

Most traditional wave stitch patterns are based on a single repeating row. But I’m going to show you how using a pattern with two repeating rows can result in better pattern placement and a more versatile design for granny squares.

3. Getting straight edges

Usually with ripple stitch and wave stitch the top and bottom edge of the work are wavy. For blankets that’s no big deal – it’s a nice design feature in fact. But for granny squares it’s no good, because it makes it difficult to join those edges quickly and neatly. To give my granny squares four straight edges, there are special instructions for the first and last rows.

4. Getting strong edges

Finally, we want the vertical edges of our squares to be strong and straight too, so that we can join them securely without worrying about stretching or distortion. I love to achieve this using stacked single crochets at the start of each row instead of turning chains. I’ll show you how to do that now, before we go on.

Starting rows with stacked single crochets

Using stacked single crochets in place of turning chains at the beginning of a row creates a strong, straight edge. And they’re so easy you’ll hardly ever want to use a turning chain again!

1. At the beginning of your new row, make a single crochet straight into the top of the first stitch (below left). Note – there’s no turning chain first.
2. Next insert the hook under the left leg of that single crochet (below center).
3. And make another single crochet (below right). The result is a stitch about the same height and width as a regular double crochet stitch.

To make a stacked treble crochet, just insert the hook into the left leg of the top single crochet (indicated by the arrow below) and make another single crochet.

NOTE: This technique doesn’t work for the first row. If you try and single crochet into the closest chain to the hook of a foundation chain, that chain stitch will just unravel! So, the first row of my granny squares include some turning chains, which don’t count as stitches in the next row.

The patterns

Right, let’s get stuck into some granny squares! The stitches and their abbreviations you’ll need to know are:

St(s) Stitch(es)
Ch Chain
Sk Skip
Sc Single crochet
Hdc Half treble crochet
Dc Double crochet
Tr Treble crochet

Lucy’s written details on these basic stitches here. For the ripple patterns I’ve also used the following:

Inc Increase (make two double crochets in the same space)
Dc2tog Double crochet two together

If you’re not familiar with the double crochet two together instruction, it goes like this:

1. Start a double crochet stitch in the next space, but stop with two loops still left on the hook (below left).
2. Repeat exactly the same steps in the next stitch (below center).
3. You’ll have three loops left on the hook. Put the yarn over your hook, and draw it through all three loops (below right).

You can even decrease with the stacked single crochets at the start of a row. Make the first single crochet as usual, then pull the yarn through its left leg, and stop there without finishing the second single crochet. Then start another double crochet in the next stitch, and pick up from step 2 above.

Simple ripple pattern granny square

This is a simple single row repeat for the most part, but as for all these squares, it needs a special top and bottom row to give it straight edges.

• Foundation chain: Multiple of 10, plus 1. I’ve used 21 sts.
• Row 1: Sk 1, *sc, hdc 2, dc, tr 2, dc, hdc 2, sc* to end. Change color.
• Row 2: *Dc2tog, dc 2, inc 2, dc 2, dc2tog* to end. Change color.
• Repeat row 2 until your granny is just shy of square.
• Final row: *Tr, dc 2, hdc, sc 2, hdc, dc 2, tr* to end.

3D ripple granny square

This is a really easy twist on the pattern above, and it looks so effective. The only bummer is, I just can’t get a photo that does it justice! It’s not a bulky 3D effect, it’s a subtle one where each ripple looks like it slightly overlaps the previous one. Quite simply, it elevates them into *real* ripples, and I love it.

• Foundation chain: Multiple of 10, plus 1. I’ve used 21 sts.
• Row 1: Sk 1, *sc, hdc 2, dc, tr 2, dc, hdc 2, sc* to end. Change color.
• Row 2: Working into the back loops only of the previous row: *dc2tog, dc 2, inc 2, dc 2, dc2tog* to end.
• Row 3: Working into both loops of the previous row: *dc2tog, dc 2, inc 2, dc 2, dc2tog* to end. Change color.
• Repeat rows 2 and 3 until your granny is just shy of square.
• Final row: Working into the back loops only of the previous row: *tr, dc 2, hdc, sc 2, hdc, dc 2, tr* to end.

Simple wave pattern granny square – single row repeat

Now let’s look at the wavy designs. This single row repeat is the classic wave stitch pattern. It would do the job for a granny square project showcasing a different design in every square, but in every other respect I think the alternative approach below is better!

• Foundation chain: Multiple of 8, plus 4. I’m using 20 stitches.
• Row 1: Sk 2, *dc 6, sc 2* to two stitches from end, dc 2. Change color.
• Row 2: *Dc 2, tr 2, dc 2, sc 2* to two stitches from end, dc 2. Change color.
• Repeat row 2 until your granny is just shy of square.
• Final row: *Dc 6, sc 2* to two stitches from end, dc 2.

Improved wave pattern granny square – two row repeat

The problem with the pattern above is that each row stops half way through a wave. Which I think looks clunky if you want to line up the squares next to others that look the same. This version fixes that.

• Foundation chain: Multiple of 8, plus 6.
• Row 1: Sk 2, dc 2, *sc 2, dc 6* to 4 sts from end, sc 2, dc 2. Change color.
• Row 2: *Dc 2, tr 2, dc 2, sc 2* to 6 sts from end, dc 2, tr 2, dc 2. Change color.
• Row 3: *Dc 2, sc 2, dc 2, tr 2* to 6 sts from end, dc 2, sc 2, dc 2. Change color.
• Repeat rows 2 and 3 until your granny is just shy of being square, finishing on a repeat of row 2.
• Final row: Dc 2, *sc 2, dc 6* to 4 sts from end, sc 2, dc 2.

The green rows are repeats of row 2, and the off white rows are repeats of row 3. Once you’ve made the pattern like this, you can arrange the squares at right angles to achieve a result like this. It’s giving strong ‘60s vibes and I love it!

Ripple stitch and wave stitch granny squares

There you have it – everything I’ve learned about making ripple stitch and wave stitch granny squares, from hours of trial and error. And the only four patterns I think you’ll ever need! There’s just one more thing you need to know before you go: because ripple and wave stitches rely on changing color between rows to make their pattern stand out, you’ll end up with lots of ends to weave in. I can’t tell you how much of time I spent preparing this article was taken up just by weaving in ends!

The post 4 Ways To Make Ripple Stitch And Wave Stitch Granny Squares appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Blocking is the process of neatening your crocheted fabric, usually through dampening the worked yarn and pinning it to the desired shape. Blocked granny squares in particular have steady edges and a consistent size, where unblocked crochet blankets can be wavy and uneven in appearance. Which also makes them harder to crochet together. Contrary to popular opinion you don’t have to wet your project to shape it, and you don’t need to go mad spending your hard earned dollars on blocking boards to get the finish you want.

I must admit I was so sceptical about blocking when I began crocheting. I think it’s because I am a bit of a natural corner-cutter. If something can be done faster, that’s the way I want to do it. However, my quick fix tendencies are no match for my need to see a job done right. (It’s fun in my head). Which is why I only made one blanket without blocking before seeing how wrong I was to skip that particular step. My natural scepticism has meant that I’ve come up with some unconventional but helpful tips for those occasions where blocking is needed.

Here are my own personal do’s and don’ts for blocking your next crochet project.

DO Block when working in 2D

Almost all two dimensional crochet projects can benefit from being blocked.

DO Dampen your yarn

I tend to put my crochet onto the blocking board then spray it down, with a towel underneath to catch any droplets. But you can spray your yarn then peg it up, either way is fine.

DO Stretch your work

When putting your crocheted fabric onto your blocking board, make sure to stretch it out. Don’t just stick it on according to its current shape, or it won’t neaten up.

DO Choose a solid board and pins

When you block your crochet, it takes the new shape because the fibers are under tension. This means that the board and pins are supporting the weight of the natural opposing pull of the yarn. To stay the right shape and be reusable for years to come, you need to choose a solid board and strong pins.

DO Go with metal pins

Not only are metal pins less likely to bend under the pressure of the blocking process, but there is no risk of snagging on splinters like with wood. Although it still pays to check the rods for burrs before sliding your crochet on!

DO Get the biggest board you can

Taking into account the size of your craft space and your budget, I recommend going as big as you can. This is based on my semi-frequent disappointment when I can’t quite fit the thing I’ve just made onto the board!

DO Get a board with plenty of size options

If you are going for a blocking board with removable pegs, look for one with the most pegs possible to fit the space available. This will give you more options for pinning out your work to the perfect size.

DO Plan your granny squares based on the board size

The granny squares I’ve pictured here turned out to just fit on the board. It was a close thing! In future I’ll definitely be working up the first square with the board next to me, to make sure I don’t over size it.

DO Block in sections

Remember to block your project in it’s composite parts, to make the best use of your blocking board.

DO Attach as soon as possible

Once you’ve blocked your squares and you are happy with how they look, attach them together as soon as you can to have the best chance of retaining that shape. Fibers do naturally shift back towards their original position once you remove them, but crocheting or sewing them together quickly helps to reduce this.

DON’T Soak the yarn

It’s really easy to over wet your crochet before blocking, and it’s not beneficial to the process. When sprayed down it should feel damp to the touch, but not be dripping or able to be wrung out.

DON’T Panic and dry your yarn with heat

If you have made your project too wet to block out, then pop it between two towels and just pat it dry. Avoid using a hairdryer as some yarns react poorly to intense heat and it’s hard to get an even dry.

DON’T Take it off too soon

If my time constraints allow me to do so, I like to leave my crochet on the blocking board for around three days. Some yarns are much more filling to neaten up and you can just leave them overnight, but in my experience there is no harm to waiting longer and it tends to give a more even finish.

DON’T Pin unevenly

Spoken from bitter experience, don’t quickly throw your work onto the board and go. Double and triple check that each edge is spaced exactly the same amount, or you’ll need to restart the blocking process over again when you’re done.

DON’T Be afraid to improvise

Blocking doesn’t need to be carried out on a specially made blocking board. I use heavy books to block bigger projects, or you can pin them using a clothes horse or washing lines. As long as you have a way to keep the crochet in the position you want it to end up as for a period of time, you’ve got a good chance of achieving the finish you’re looking for.

The post My 15 Do’s and Don’ts of Crochet Blocking  appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

When I began to crochet my own plushies, I often found that they gently nodded forward, either over time or immediately after I made them. And the reason basically always boils down to angles, weight, and, at the end of the day, our eternal foe, gravity.

But there is no reason to sadly accept floppy heads on your amigurumi, because I’m going to share several methods that I use to ensure my crochet toys’ heads stay upright and pointing in the direction I want them to.

• Stuffing, tension and stitch style
• Adding some extra support

Stuffing

New crocheters often struggle to fill their toys with the right amount of stuffing. If you overfill, it can make your amigurumi look distorted (I still have a couple of my earliest toys where you can see the stuffing making its escape out of badly stretched stitches!). But if you under fill, it can lose its structure and ability to retain the posture you’ve created, regardless of other factors.

This is why I always recommend you check your filling first, before going to more complex measures to resolve the issue. Sometimes I find that just pushing a little more wadding into the neck space can help your toy go from dozing off to fully alert.

Tension and Stitch Style

Everyone has a different natural tension. Mine is quite tight, and has been since my first few months in this hobby. But some people’s tension is much looser, and this can result in stitches that are a little more open and therefore less rigid.

A good way to check your tension is to make a sampler up of a 2D item, like a garment, and check the stitch count in comparison with the pattern. If you fit fewer stitches into an inch than they do, your tension is looser. You can try tightening your tension by holding your yarn more firmly in your non-dominant hand, and it can sometimes help to hold your yarn hand closer to your hook.

Yarning under instead of over can also create tighter stitches, but there is a lot of personal preference to this one. I’m a yarn over person, and always will be regardless of the pattern! Which is why, in the case of super floppy heads, I go with adding in some extra support.

Felt

Felt is easily available from craft stores, simple to snip to size and roll up. I recommend taking a section of felt that will stretch from the top of the head to half way into the body piece.

Foam

You can do the same thing with foam, and I actually prefer this because I find it more supportive, and just as easy to curl up and into shape. It’s also a bit easier to cut with scissors too. As with the felt, make sure it goes well into each piece to give maximum support, and ideally it should be as wide as the diameter of the neck section when tightly rolled.

Choose a color of foam or felt that is as similar to the yarn in that section as possible, just in case it shows if any of the stitches gape over time.

Packing Peanuts

You can achieve the same impact with a packing peanut too, but the likelihood of getting one the exact size you need is slim. And if you use multiples, I find they aren’t long enough to stay in place as well. Also, watch out for eco packing peanuts – they dissolve when wet! You don’t want to accidentally insert one into your toy!

Pipe Cleaners

I’ve saved the best to last. I love using pipe cleaners for support, provided the toy is not too large. The reason I am such a fan of them for this use, is that they are sturdy and directional. That means if you want to point the head off at an angle, lift the next, or indeed add a trunk, they will bend wherever you want them too and hold the position really well. I’ve put them to great use in my scorpion and tarantula patterns for leg and tail support, and can’t recommend them enough.

The post Say Goodbye To Floppy Amigurumi Heads appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

I love a granny square. They are a staple of the crochet world, the first thing many people learn, and yet the variations are so far ranging. Whether you want something bold and simple or complicated and curious, there is a granny square pattern for you.

Solid Granny Squares

A total foundation of my granny square experience is this solid design. I find it so multifunctional, and with varying color changes you can use such a straight forward design in some really fascinating ways.

Bullion Stitch

Want to knock your crochet up a notch, then consider the bullion stitch. It’s not quite your regular crochet, but well worth the extra effort and the latch hook you’ll need* isn’t too pricey.

Bean Stitch Grannies

Beans, tasty and crochetable! Who’d have thought. The standard and mini bean stitch both make for gorgeous granny afghans, especially if you mix and match them in your throw.

Waffle Stitch Granny Squares

Waffle stitches are time consuming, but so worth the effort. It’s not just the look, you’ll adore the thick, lustrous texture too.

Shell Stitch

Shell stitches combine traditional crochet styles in a modern way. Gorgeous as standalone shapes or sewn together as a blanket, this sloped stitch is my bet for the next big thing.

Linen Stitches

Linen stitch might sound mundane, but it’s really not. You can use it in several ways, and combine them to make really unique yet simple style granny blankets.

Four V Stitches

I have four different v stitch granny squares for you, which bring remarkably different designs to the table. My personal favorite is the expanding version, but you can mix and match them as you like.

Bobble Stitch Designs

Bobble stitch granny squares have basically infinite variations, depending on where you choose to put your bobbles!

And you can even take your granny blanket’s cuteness to the next level by bobble stitching shapes and designs. Love it!

Star Granny Squares

These five point stars look tricky, but don’t worry, Sarah has done all the complex parts for you already with the design. All you need to do is follow her simple instructions.

Circle Designs

Circular granny squares look their very best when they are outlined in white or cream shades, to really highlight the shape.

Modern Hearts

The perfect granny square for someone you love, surely! I adore this modern style, and it goes gorgeously with the stars and circles above too.

Going Diagonal

I was bowled away when I first saw this one come together. It’s not just the slanted angle that’s been pulled off so neatly, I also highly recommend using this color combination too. It pops!

Sunny Skies

These sun granny squares made a blanket that I almost, but not quite, regret giving as a gift. I think I’m going to have to make another one for myself!

*The products linked in this pattern were carefully selected by Lucy Kate Crochet. If you decide to purchase using the links provided, we may earn a small commission on that sale. This is at no extra cost to you.

The post Free Granny Square Crochet Patterns appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

A little while back, I showed you how to incorporate the wonderfully bumpy bobble stitch into granny squares. But one technique I wasn’t very familiar with at the time was making shapes, recurring patterns, or motifs from bobble stitches. Since then I’ve done lots of experimenting with exactly that. So now I’m going to show you exactly how to design and make bobble stitch shapes. I’ve got some simple patterns to share, but I’m also going to make it really easy for you to design your own patterns – including amazing embossed bobble stitch lettering!

Making bobble stitches – a quick reminder

Bobble stitches are fabulous little clusters of double crochet, that form cute convex bubbles on the surface of your fabric. Bobbles are made across two stitches. In the first stitch you crochet five double crochet together (dc5tog):

1. Yarn over
2. Insert hook through stitch, yarn over and pull through
3. Yarn over and draw through two loops on your hook (two loops remaining)
4. Repeat steps 1 – 3 (three loops remaining on hook)
5. Repeat steps 1 – 3 three times more (six loops remaining on hook)
6. Yarn over, and draw through all six loops.

And in the second stitch, make a single crochet. This pushes the double crochets in the previous stitch outwards, forming a plump bobble.

How bobble stitch shapes are designed

Understanding bobble stitch picture patterns – and even designing your own – is really simple when you keep in mind two things:

1. A bobble stitch is about as wide and tall as two double crochet stitches. This means that you can combine bobble stitches and pairs of double crochets like tiles to build up a picture.
2. Bobble stitches are non-reversible. This means that when you’re working back and forth in rows, you need to alternate rows that have bobble stitches in them with rows of single crochet, so you’re always working in the same direction when you make the bobbles.

Now all you need to design a bobble stitch pattern is a grid of squares to lay it out on. You could use:

• Squared paper (ideal for rapidly brainstorming ideas)
• A hand sketched grid (does the job just fine for small designs)
• A spreadsheet or table on an electronic device (handy for refining ideas without redrawing them several times).

On your grid, each square is two stitches wide, and may represent either:

• A bobble stitch (1 dc5tog, plus 1 single crochet)

Or

• 2 double crochets

You can represent them any way you like. I use a large-ish solid dot for my bobbles, and leave the box empty for two double crochets.

There’s no need to draw in the rows of single crochet in between your bobble rows. Just remember that they need to be made!

Reading your pattern

Bobble stitch patterns are read from left to right, starting at the bottom row and working upwards. Some people do prefer to read them from right to left, since rows of crochet themselves progress from right to left. If you’d like to do that, just bear in mind your pattern will be reversed, and the finished design will be a mirror image of the template you worked from. Easy ways to correct the pattern so you can follow it from right to left are to:

• Take a photo and flip the image using your smartphone or computer.
• Prop a paper pattern up facing a light source, and read it through the back of the page.

Shape distortion

Here’s a reminder of the granny square with a bobble stitch motif from my previous article:

Its shortcomings are pretty obvious – it’s not square! But my design was. What I’d failed to take into account was that bobble stitches are taller than they are wide. And two double crochets are also taller than they are wide. In fact, a square bobble stitch pattern drawn out on paper will only be about 85% as wide as it is tall when it’s made up.

Here’s another illustration. The top pattern is square and the bottom pattern is a wide rectangle.

And here they are made up:

The top pattern produced the tall rectangle from my previous article. And the bottom pattern produces a square. The same effect will apply when you crochet any bobble stitch shape. So, if proportions are important for your pattern to make sense, design it slightly wider than you want it to turn out. Better still, make samples of small areas, to check they’re going to look right!

Some simple bobble stitch shape patterns

Now you know how to design a bobble stitch pattern, there’s really no limit on how far you can make your own. Some people cover whole king size blankets with intricate designs! Before you commit to something so big, here are some simple designs to try out first or inspire your pattern.

Bobble stitch hearts

Hearts are one of the most simple and satisfying bobble stitch motifs to make. Since they’re easily recognizable from any angle, they work well as a border.

Here are patterns for three sizes of heart. To count out space for them, remember that each square in the grid is two stitches wide.

Here are the largest and smallest hearts made up:

I didn’t think I’d have enough yarn to include all three of them, and sure enough, I ran out shortly after completing two!

Bobble stitch boat

This was my daughter’s favorite design from my page of doodles above. It’s just a shame I didn’t have any blue yarn in my stash to make an example from! That would have looked even more charming. The pattern is 18 stitches (9 bobbles) wide, and 9 bobbles tall.

Bobble stitch cactus

Embroidery embellishments are a popular way of bringing bobble stitch designs to life. This cactus is very straight forward, but it would look sad and maybe even a little hard to recognize without its pink flowers. Here’s the pattern:

The flowers are added last and could hardly be simpler. Using a contrasting yarn:

• Make a magic circle.
• *Ch3, sl st into the magic circle* 5 times.
• Cut the yarn and use the tails to tie the flower to the side of a cactus limb.

If you fancy making your cacti bigger, these puff stitch flowers would be perfect for keeping the scale right.

Bobble stitch snail

Bobble stitch patterns are an excellent opportunity to experiment with color changes and use up yarn scraps. The single crochet stitch after the dc5tog is the ideal place to hide a change of yarn. The body and shell of this cute little snail are made in two colors. The antennae are embroidered on last – they’re made up of three simple back stitches, and a french knot at the end.

Here’s the pattern:

The snail itself is 12 stitches (or six bobbles) across, and four bobbles high (eight rows, if you count the rows of single crochet between the bobble rows).

Bobble stitch lettering

If you’re looking for something really fun and inventive to do with bobble stitch, using it to spell out words is just the thing. For example, using bobble stitches to spell out a baby’s name on a blanket is a lovely way to make a personalized keepsake. I’m not going to give you a pattern for a whole alphabet here though, because I have a much better tip – cross stitch patterns! There are countless cross stitch fonts already designed, many of which are free to download online. And the majority of them translate perfectly into making bobble stitch patterns – just avoid any cross stitch alphabets with half stitches in them.

Stacked vs offset bobble stitches

In all these designs, I’ve stacked my bobble stitches in neat vertical rows. This keeps things simple, and means the patterns can be drawn out on any square grid. But, there’s no reason the bobbles can’t be offset or staggered, like bricks in a wall. Since each bobble stitch occupies two stitch spaces, it’s as simple as lining them up so that one bobble isn’t directly above the one below – fill one space with an extra double crochet instead.

Offsetting bobble stitches gives you a little bit extra freedom to make designs more recognizable. In fact, I’m already thinking the three short rows of offset bobbles in that photo could be turned into a cute little pumpkin motif with an embroidered stalk!

Crocheting bobble stitch shapes – summary

Crocheting bobble stitch shapes look deceptively complicated. In fact, they’re very easy to construct, and a lot of fun to watch materialize when you make them! Bobble stitch patterns are the perfect way to customize crochet blankets for children, with either their name or a picture of something they love. If you need more ideas to get you started, simple cross stitch patterns are a brilliant place to start, since they’re laid out on the same grid pattern. Let me know what pattern ideas you have in mind using the comments bow down below!

The post Crocheting Bobble Stitch Shapes appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

How would you describe a granny square that’s split in half diagonally, and one color on each side of that line? A two-triangle granny square? A diagonal granny square? Perhaps you’d even recognize that the color changes have been achieved using tapestry crochet? In fact, I think the hardest part of making this tutorial has been deciding how to describe what I’m showing you! Because actually making a two-tone granny square like this (see, another option right there) is dead simple. And the result is incredibly effective – especially if you want to make a granny square blanket that mimics some of the traditional shapes and patterns usually seen in quilting, like sawtooth stars and pinwheels.

• Before you get started
• The pattern
• Tips on technique

Making diagonal granny squares

These granny squares are a striking twist on a solid granny square. But with two colors, and a small pattern adjustment, to achieve the best effect. Usually to incorporate more than one color into a granny square the extra colors are added in concentric rounds, working outwards from the center. Or you could work in rows, and make stripes of color. But this time we’re going to look at a third way – carrying one shade of yarn inside the stitches of another, so you can switch at any time. This method is called tapestry crochet. And these squares are a great project to start with if you’re new to tapestry crochet, and want to get a feel for how it’s done.

Some notes before you get started

Choosing colors

You can make these diagonally split granny squares in any two colors. But, the greater the contrast between them, the more likely it is you’ll be able to spot the little places where one is poking through the other. And no matter how careful and neat you are, there will be some little places where you can see the yarn you’re carrying through your stitches. It actually put me off using this technique for the longest time. But eventually something shifted, and I’ve learned to appreciate they’re just part of the charm.

Hook size and tension

As a general rule, you can make these squares with whatever hook size your yarn calls for on the wrapper. But, if your natural tension errs towards the loose side, you might find you get better results if you drop down a hook size. This will increase the tension in your square slightly and hold the yarn you’re carrying more in position more securely. Even though the yarn carried inside another stitch can never come loose from the stitch entirely, it can wiggle up inside the stitch over time and become more visible, if your tension is very loose.

The pattern

The sequence of stitches for making these squares contains few surprises. The magic is all in the color changes. You’ll need to know how to chain, slip stitch, and make a double crochet stitch. If you need a refresher on any of those, check out this introduction to the basic crochet stitches. It will also help if you’re familiar with making a solid granny square in just one color.

To start

Using your first yarn color (yarn A), make a magic circle. Or you can chain 4 and join them with a slip stitch to form a loop, if you prefer.

Round 1

Ch3 (counts as the first dc). Working into the magic loop and catching the yarn’s tail as you go, dc 1. Start another dc, but stop before the final yarn over.

Drop yarn A and pick up your second yarn (yarn B). Loop it over the hook from back to front, and use it to finish the double crochet stitch.

Using yarn B:

• Ch 1
• Dc 3 into the magic loop, catching yarn A and both yarn tails as you go.
• Ch 1
• Dc 3 into the magic loop, catching yarn A and both yarn tails as you go, and stopping before the final yarn over of the last stitch.

Drop yarn B and pick up yarn A. Make sure it goes behind yarn B, and your yarn tails. Then bring it over your hook, and use it to finish the double crochet stitch.

Continuing to use yarn A:

• Ch 1
• Dc 3 into the magic loop (catching color B and both yarn tails as you go)
• Ch 1
• Sl st to the top of the ch 3 to join.

You should have four sides, each with 3 dc, and four corner spaces, each with one chain. Using single chain corner spaces is an important feature of this pattern – I’ll show you why before the end of this article!

Now is a good time to weave in the yarn tails and get them out of the way. If you started with a magic circle, you can pull the tail of yarn A to tighten the circle. You might also need to pull the tail of yarn B ever so slightly, to take up any slack in it. But, do not pull hard on the tail of yarn B – that will create a dimple in the corner where you joined it.

Round 2

Let yarn B hang free. Using yarn A, ch 3, dc 1 into the corner space.

Next you need to control yarns A and B simultaneously for a moment. Loop yarn A over your hook, in preparation for making a double crochet stitch. Hold yarn B just behind the top of the next stitch, so that it comes up slightly to the right of the stitch*, and travels behind the stitch from right to left. Insert your hook into the top of the ch 3 from round 1 and under yarn B.

* Assuming you’re right handed. If you’re left handed, it will come up to the left of the stitch.

Pick up yarn A and draw it back through the stitch.

Complete your double crochet using yarn A. Here’s the back of the finished stitch, with yarn B trapped at its base:

Now yarn B is in position, it’s quite easy to keep in there while you make the rest of the side. Make 2 more dc into the side stitches, and 2 dc into the corner space. Stop before the final yarn over of the last stitch.

Release yarn A. Pick up yarn B making sure it goes behind yarn A, and use it to finish that double crochet.

Hold yarn A behind the top of the stitches along the next side of your square and use yarn B to:

• Ch 1, and dc 2 into the corner space.
• *Dc into the next 3 stitches, then (dc 2, ch 1, dc 2) into the corner space* twice, stopping before the final yarn over of the last stitch.

Carrying your yarn

Make sure that when you put your hook into each stitch (or the chain space) it goes below yarn A, so that it gets caught in your stitches. Take care not to miss the first stitch on each edge – because the corner spaces are small and so full of stitches, they tend to hide it a bit!

You’ve got the technique now, so switch back to yarn A to finish the round, catching yarn B inside the stitches. Repeat for as many rounds as you want, then tie off and weave in your ends.

Blocking

Finally, block your square to make the edges straight and the corners sharp. Blocking makes an especially big difference when you’re only using one chain to make your corner spaces.

The importance of carrying the yarn behind your stitches

Carrying your yarn slightly behind the previous row of stitches rather than sitting on top of them makes all the difference to how these granny squares turn out. In this picture, I’m about to start working with the white yarn, and carrying the pink yarn inside the stitches. When I look down on the top of my stitches, you can see that I’m holding the pink yarn alongside them, to the wrong side of my work.

Here’s how that looks, compared to if I’d held it on top of them instead.

The square on the left can also start looking like the square on the right over time, if the tension is very loose. Which is why it’s a good idea to use a smaller crochet hook than usual, if you tend to crochet loosely.

What happens if you make two chains in the corners?

For a regular solid granny square, it’s more usual to make two chain stitches in the corner spaces. Using just one for this design is a fantastic tip I picked up from the awesomely talented Therese Hagstedt on Instagram. It works a treat to conceal the ‘wrong’ colored yarn at the corners. I’ve taken this photo slightly sideways onto show you clearly what I mean:

But it’s pretty obvious from any angle in real life – on the square with 2 chains at the corner spaces, the red yarn is clearly visible in the white corner spaces. It’s also poking through the white yarn in the top-left corner spaces. Using just one chain in the corner spaces forces the stitches in the space to bunch together more tightly, fixing these problems.

Tapestry crochet variations

These granny squares are the perfect solution for incorporating triangles and diagonal lines into granny square projects. I’m planning to make enough for a three-color blanket with a pin wheel design. But for more inspiration, try researching traditional quilt making blocks. There are some great examples of what’s possible here.

For more intricate designs, you could even switch colors at every corner, so the square is divided into four triabgles and the colors look like hourglasses.

Diagonal granny square – summary

This granny square pattern is one of the most visually striking, without being intricate to make. I love the impact the bright colors I’ve chosen have – I think they’re going to bring a great energy to my finished blanket. But more muted, tonal hues would have a classic, timeless feel. Let me know which colors you’d use in the comments box down below!

The post How To Make A Diagonal Granny Square appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Understated luxury probably isn’t a term most people associate with granny squares, but if it was, they’d use it to describe a bullion stitch granny square. Bullion stitch isn’t as showy as star stitches, or as three-dimensional as bobble stitch. But it’s very distinctive, and no other stitch can pass for it. And boy is it slow to work with. Plus it takes a fair amount of practice to make a uniform row of bullion stitches. So if you see a project with bullion stitch granny squares in it, you know some time and experience that can’t be faked went into making it. And you know what? It looks pretty good too!

• What is bullion stitch?
• How to crochet a bullion stitch
• How to make bullion stitches without a latch hook
• Bullion stitch granny square in rounds: pattern
• Bullion stitch granny square in rows: pattern

What is bullion stitch

Put simply, it’s one of these! Or as my 10 year old describes them, “those funny little croissant stitches”.

Bullion stitch features a tightly wound coil of yarn, threaded onto a central core, and held in place with a chain stitch at the top. The coil can have anywhere between 6 and 14 twists in it. But the classic and most widely used number is 7, since 7 twists usually results in a bullion stitch close to the same height as a double crochet stitch. Meaning you can use them next to each other without your working edge getting hopelessly wavy and wobbly.

Crocheting bullion stitch

The first distinctive feature of bullion stitch is that most people set aside their regular crochet hook and use a latch hook to make it instead. Drawing a regular crochet hook neatly through several coils of yarn is really tricky. Unlike drawing it through one or two loops at a time, as in the basic crochet stitches, you can’t do it in one smooth motion. So you have to manipulate each loop off the hook individually. And inevitably some end up being tight, whilst others end up loose.

Enter, a latch hook

If you’ve never seen a latch hook before, behold – your new bullion stitch making best friend.

Latch hooks are also used for making latch-hooked rugs, throw pillows and wall hangings. But we’re going to use it to draw our yarn through several loops at a time, without the hook snagging and getting stuck. The hinged bit beneath the hook swings freely. It pushes open and flush with the shaft when you insert the hook into a stitch. Then when you pull the hook back through the stitch, it swings shut, so that several loops of yarn can slide right off the end of the hook, without getting caught.

How to crochet a bullion stitch

These are the steps for making a bullion stitch:

• Wrap the yarn around the hook 7 times. The yarn comes over the hook towards you , and goes under the hook away from you – exactly the same as ‘yarn over’ in any other stitch.
• Insert the hook through both loops of the stitch you’re making your bullion stitch into. The latch will open as you do this.
• Yarn over, and draw back through. The latch will close as you pull it back through – make sure your working yarn is trapped inside the hook!
• Now slide your new loop back along the hook, to the other side of the latch.
• Yarn over again, and draw through all 8 loops on the hook.

• The loop left on your hook is the core of your bullion stitch. If your tension is too tight and the core is very short, your stitch will look bunched up and bulgy at the end. If your tension is too loose and the core is long, your stitch will look straggly and likely it’s starting to unwind. So check and make any tension adjustments before you move on. I find I need to lift my hook just a millimeter to make my core fractionally longer.

• Yarn over, and draw though the remaining loop on your hook. This chain stitch secures and finishes your bullion stitch. Check your tension again – if this stitch is tight, your bullion stitch will end up coiled up like a cooked shrimp!

Here’s a video showing all those steps together:

No latch hook? No problem

Let’s quickly have a look at what happens if you use a standard crochet hook. The hook doesn’t slide easily through all eight loops, so you need to pinch one at a time between finger nail and thumb nail, and lift them over the end of your hook.

It’s exceptionally tricky keeping the tension even doing this. The coil tends to end up looking like a tiny typhoon.

Maybe typhoon stitch should become a thing, but it’s not the effect we’re looking for here! However if you don’t have a latch hook, you can still experiment with bullion stitch. All you need is:

• A second crochet hook, knitting needle, or smooth chopstick
• Washi tape, rubber bands, or hair ties.

I’ve used a small double pointed knitting needle. The trick is to position it so close to the tip of your hook that when you slide all your loops off they slip free of the hook too, without snagging. But you also need to allow just enough space that you can still use your crochet hook to pick up yarn and pull it through.

This hack is handy for testing a sample of bullion stitch, and deciding if you want to use it on a bigger scale. But if you decide to go ahead, it’s worth investing in a latch hook. They only cost about $5, and they make bullion stitch much quicker. And by ‘much quicker’ I still mean pretty slow compared to most other stitches!

2 bullion stitch granny squares

Bullion stitch works for making granny squares in the round, and in rows. The decorative effect really is beautiful. For example, they would look stunning at the center of a flower granny square. Both types of bullion stitch granny are single sided, meaning they have a right side, and a wrong side. And the trick for making either style look good is to go slow, take your time, don’t rush.

Both patterns use standard US crochet terms. The standard abbreviation for bullion stitch is BS. It’s ok to smirk whenever you see it, I won’t judge.

How to make a bullion stitch granny square in rounds

• Make a magic circle, or sc 4 and join with a sl st – crocheter’s choice!
• Round 1: Sc 5, sl st to join. 5 sts.
• Round 2: Ch 3, 2 BS into each st, sl st into first BS to join. This results in 10 bullion stitches, and also 10 chain stitches – for the purposes of the next round we’re going to count all of them. 20 sts.
• Round 3: Ch 3, *BS 4, 2 BS into next stitch* 4 times, sl st into the first BS to join. This results in 24 bullion stitches, and also 24 chain stitches – for the purpose of the next round we’re going to count all of them. 48 sts.
• Round 4: Ch1, sc 1, hdc 2, dc 2, tr 1, ch 2, *tr 1, dc 2, hdc 2, sc 2, hdc 2, dc 2, tr 1, ch 2* 3 times, tr 1, dc 2, hdc 2, sc 1, sl st to first sc. 48 side sts, plus 4 pairs of corner chains.
• Round 5: Ch 3, dc 6, (dc 2, ch 2, dc 2) into corner space, *dc 12, (dc 2, ch 2, dc 2) into corner space* 3 times, dc 6, sl st to first dc to join. Cut yarn and weave in ends.

How to make a bullion stitch granny square in rows

Working bullion stitch in rows is a little different to working it in rounds. You have to remember to only work into the tops of the bullion stitches themselves, not the chains between as well. I’ve used stacked single crochets at the start of my rows, for a sturdy, straight edge. But you can replace them with three chain stitches if you prefer. I described how to stack two single crochets in my v-stitch granny square tutorial.

• Foundation chain: Using a larger hook (I sized up from a size F/4mm hook to a size J/6mm hook) make an odd number of chains.
• Row 1: Switch to the correct hook size for your yarn. Starting at the fourth stitch from the hook, dc all the way along the foundation chain.
• Row 2: Stack 2 sc in the first st, dc 1, BS to 2 sts from the end of the row, dc 2.
• Row 3: Ch 1, sc into every dc and every BS – but not the chains in between them!
• Repeat rows 2 & 3 until your granny is just shy of square.
• Final row: Stack 2 sc into the first st, dc across whole row, tie off and weave in ends.

Bullion stitch granny square – summary

Bullion stitches are decorative and unique. Making them with a latch hook is a bit fiddly at first – getting to grips with any new piece of equipment takes time. But like every other skill in crochet it gets easier with practice! Even with plenty of experience, they are one of the slowest stitches to work with though. They’re a sophisticated and understated way of embellishing a granny square bag or blanket for another crochet lover. They’ll really appreciate the extra lengths you went to! Let us know how you’re going to use your bullion stitch granny squares in the comments box down below.

The post Bullion Stitch Granny Square appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

V-stitches are a great way to whip up speedy granny squares with interesting textures. You can use double, half double, or single crochet to make v-stitch. Whichever you choose, your granny square will be finished with one third less yarn than if you’d made it to the same size using solid stitches. So you’ll finish your project faster, and you’ll save money. Here are 4 ways to make beautiful v-stitch granny squares.

• V-stitch – how is it made and what is it good for?
• Double crochet v-stitch granny square in rows
• Double crochet v-stitch granny square in the round
• Half double crochet v-stitch square
• Single crochet v-stitch grannies, a.k.a. spider stitch squares

V-stitch – how is it made and what is it good for?

Without a doubt, the best thing about v-stitches is how quickly you can cover a lot of area with them! Compared to making a solid granny square of the same size, a v-stitch granny square has 33% fewer stitches. But I don’t like them just because they’re thrifty with yarn. V-stitches of all sizes produce intriguing and tactile patterns. They really beckon you in to take a closer look! V-stitch is also extremely beginner friendly – it relies on just two basic stitches at a time, and the bare minimum effort for counting.

The formula for a v-stitch is stitch-chain-stitch, all made into the same place. The stitches can be single, half double, or double crochet. They could even half treble, treble or double-treble crochet, but I had to draw the line somewhere or this article would never be finished! Since a v-stitch is one stitch wide at the bottom, and three stitches wide at the top, it forms v-shape. The next row of stitches is worked inside the chain space, so that the Vs stack in neat vertical rows:

V-stitch granny squares are great for making:

• Scarves and shawls with fantastic drape
• Lightweight blankets for spring and fall
• Summer sweaters and cardigans

But they’re not a great choice for granny square bags, unless you use cotton yarn or put a lining in your bag, because they tend to stretch and sag. Double and half-double V-stitch are not the best choice for baby blankets either, because they have lots of holes for little fingers to get snagged in. Single crochet v-stitch is denser and free from gaps or holes though!

4 ways to make a v-stitch granny square

Here are four ways of making granny squares out of v-stitch:

And here’s how they’re made. All the patterns are written in standard US crochet terms. Remember than when multiple stitches are grouped inside brackets, it means you make them all into the same place. So a double crochet v-stitch looks like this: (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1).

Double crochet v-stitch granny square in rows

Double crochet v-stitch is the only variation which works in rows, and in the round. The advantage of making it in rows is that it’s easier to keep the edges nice and straight. If you’re new to crochet and haven’t used v-stitches before, a simple square made in rows is also a good way to introduce it to you, and show you how it’s put together.

Rows of v-stitch inevitably need two closely-placed stitches at the beginning and end of each row, in order for the pattern to work. I like to balance them out with a row of straightforward double crochet at the top and bottom of the square too. I like how this also creates a solid border and lattice center – almost like a window. Lots of these in different colors would make an interesting granny square blanket, and the solid borders would make it feel a bit more substantial than using double crochet v-stitch alone. The solid border is also handy for concealing your joins!

How it’s done

• Foundation chain: Make a multiple of 3, plus 6. The number of multiples of three is how many Vs you’ll end up with per row. My foundation chain is 21 (15+6), so it will have 5 Vs per row.
• Row 1: Starting in the 4th chain from the hook, dc 1 into every stitch.
• Row 2: Make a stacked single crochet into the first stitch of the row. Stacked single crochets are a sturdier alternative to turning chains, and result in a straighter edge. If you’ve never made one before, it’s simple! Make a single crochet in the usual way, then insert your hook into the left leg of that sc like this:

and make another sc. This makes a little stacked pair of single crochets. To complete the row, dc 1, skip 1 st, (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1), *skip 2 sts, (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1)* until there are 3 sts left. Skip 1 st, dc 2 (indicated by the arrows below). The final stitch is into the top of the turning chain from the first row – don’t miss it!

• Row 3: Stack 2 sc in the first st. Dc 1, (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into each of the chain spaces from the previous row. Dc into each of the final two stitches.
• Row 4 onwards: Repeat row 3 until your granny is just shy of square, then finish with a row of dc.

V-stitch granny square in the round

If you prefer to make your granny squares in rounds rather than rows, this is the pattern for you. It’s super lightweight and airy, and really fast to work up.

• Make a magic circle.
• Round 1: Chain 4 (represents 1 dc and 1 ch), dc1, ch3, *dc 1, ch 1, dc 1, ch 3* 3 times, sl st into 3rd st of the ch 4.

• Round 2: (Sl st, ch 4, dc1) into the next chain space – marked with the star above. (Dc 1, ch 1, dc 1, ch 3, dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the corner space. *(Dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the next chain space and (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1, ch 3, dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the following corner space* 3 times. Sl st into the 3rd st of the ch 4.

• All further rounds: (Sl st, ch 4, dc1) into the next chain space. (Dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into all the side spaces, and (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1, ch 3, dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into all the corner spaces.

I’ve stopped after 4 rounds, to match the size of the other grannies I’ve made for this article.

As you can see, the sides of my square are starting to twist a little, meaning they no longer sit straight. If you’re going to add more than 4 rounds, start turning your square over between rounds. So the ‘wrong side’ should be facing you for the 5th row, 7th row, and so on. This will keep the edges nice and square!

Half double crochet v-stitch square

Half double crochet v-stitch is one of my all time favorites. If you make it on a smaller hook size than your yarn usually calls for, it looks like stars. And if you make it with the correct hook size, it produces a wonderful mesh-like fabric – neither solid, nor so lacy that it snags on things.

• Foundation chain: Multiple of 3, plus 2. My square starts with a chain of 25 (21 + 4).
• Row 1: Starting in the 4th chain from the hook *(hdc 1, ch 1, hdc 1), skip 2 sts* until you have 1 st remaining, hdc in the final stitch.
• Row 2: Ch 2, (hdc 1, ch 1, hdc 1) into each chain space from the previous row, hdc into the top of the turning chain.
• Repeat row 2 until your granny is square!

What about an HDC v-stitch granny square in the round?

Half double crochet v-stitch only really works to make granny squares in rows. This is because half double stitches are wide relative to their height. Meaning if you work them in rounds, the edges of the square end up wavy and won’t sit flat. To get round that in a standard hdc granny square, we usually skip the first stitch on each side. But that’s easier said than done when you’re working with v-stitches! In fact, I would go so far as to say it can’t be done. But if you can prove me wrong, please show me how in the comments!

Single crochet v-stitch grannies

Finally, what about a single crochet v-stitch granny square? Single crochet v-stitch is also known as spider stitch. It’s a brilliant alternative to using plain old single crochet, because it’s still warm and dense, but it’s faster to work up. It also has a charming, vintage-feeling texture. Spider stitch granny squares made in muted neutrals and pastel hues have a homely, cottagecore vibe.

• Foundation chain: Make a multiple of 3. I used a foundation chain of 24.
• Row 1: Starting in the 4th chain from the hook *(sc 1, ch 1, sc 1), skip 2 sts* until you have 2 sts remaining. Skip 1 st, sc 1.
• Row 2: Ch 2, (sc 1, ch 1, sc 1) into each chain space from the first row, sc into the top of the turning chain from the previous row. Don’t worry if it curls up – that will sort itself out when you make the 3rd and 4th rows.
• Repeat row 2 until your square is as tall as it is wide.

Usually chain spaces are the easiest thing in the world to find, but in this case they’re surprisingly shy! Here they are:

V-stitch granny squares – summary

V-stitches are quick and satisfying to make granny squares from. Depending on the height of the stitch you choose, the results can look very different too! If you’re a stickler for making your granny squares in rounds, then your options are a bit more limited. But I think all four possibilities are worthy of consideration for your next granny square project. Let us know what you have in mind using the comments box down below!

The post V-Stitch Granny Square – 4 Types To Try appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Do you always approach crochet projects in a strictly linear way? It’s something I definitely lack discipline for! At the moment, I’m working on a granny square cardigan, and to achieve the length I want, I’m going to need something in the region of 90 squares. I’ve made about 40 so far, and my thoughts have started wandering onto what kind of ribbing might look best at the cuffs and waistband to tie them all together. So while I have the subject on my mind, here’s a quick introduction to the five most versatile types of crochet ribbing, and how to join them to clothes.

• Crochet ribbing 101
• Crochet ribbing vs knitted ribbing
• 5 types of crochet ribbing for any occasion
• Ribbing first, or ribbing second?
• How to join crochet ribbing as you go

Crochet ribbing 101

Crochet ribbing is an integral part of garments like cardigans and sweaters. It’s also widely seen on beanie hats, gloves, and wrist warmers. Besides having functional properties – like making cuffs and headbands fit snugly against the skin – ribbed stitches can also be highly decorative. In fact lots of beautiful beanie and sweater patterns are made entirely in ribbed crochet. But despite all its applications, using ribbing in crochet can be intimidating at first.

Crochet ribbing vs knitted ribbing

Crochet ribbing behaves differently to the knitted ribbing you see on the cuffs and waistband of store bought clothes. Knitted ribbing is made of interlocked loops of yarn that stretch and spring back into position when pulled and released. It has a high degree of elasticity. Most crochet stitches are constructed from knots – every time you put the yarn over your hook, you’re effectively putting a knot in it. Knots are not a stretchy kind of construction, so the elasticity of crochet ribbing is can be limited to the elasticity of the yarn. ‘Bouncy’ yarns like wool and acrylic have a bit of built-in elasticity. Cotton, silk and bamboo yarns have virtually none.

That doesn’t mean there’s no point making crochet ribbing though! You just need to work with the properties it actually has (some elasticity, amazing textures), rather than the properties it sounds like it should have (lots of elasticity).

My 5 favorite crochet ribbing techniques

Here are five essential rib stitches which will see you through any project.

NB. These following notes all use American crochet terms. All the swatches are made with DK yarn on a size 6 (4mm) hook. I’ve included details of the number of stitches and rows in each swatch, so you can see how stitch density changes and that affect the time it takes to make them.

1. Back loop only slip stitch

Back loop only slip stitch is the closest crochet alternative to knitted ribbing. In fact, the construction is very similar indeed – all interlocked loops of yarn, and no knots. Which means it even looks a lot like stockinette stitch in knitting. Except this swatch was worked from left to right, rather than top to bottom.

If you’re not familiar with back loop only crochet, it could hardly be simpler. When you look directly down on the working edge of your crochet, the top of each stitch has a front loop, and a back loop. Here the back loops are indicated by the red arrows.

Normally, we insert our hooks under both loops of a stitch to make new stitch on top of it. To make a back loop only stitch, insert your crochet hook under the back loop only. In patterns this is usually abbreviated to BLO.

To make a swatch of back loop only slip stitch ribbing:

1. Make a foundation chain of any length, plus one turning chain.
2. Starting in the second chain from the hook, slip stitch into every chain.
3. At the end of the row, make a turning chain of one, and slip stitch into the back loop only of every stitch from the previous row.

Repeat step 3 as many times as desired.

Notes

• The swatch pictured above measures 2” x 3.5”. It is 13 stitches high and 32 rows wide.
• It is very stitch-dense and warm.
• It stretches out to nearly 60% wider than its original width and springs straight back when released. You can stretch and release it over and over again, and it retains its elasticity really well.
• The scale of the stitches is small, so it’s perfect for projects like amigurumi clothes.
• But unless you have a realistic expectation of living forever, think hard about using this technique for adult size clothes – it is slow work!

2. Back loop only single crochet

Back loop only single crochet is probably the best known and most widely used kind of crochet ribbing for cuffs and waistbands on sweaters. A casual observer probably wouldn’t even give it a second glance – it has a very pronounced ‘corrugated’ appearance that looks the part. But the texture is very different to knitted ribbing when you take a close look.

To make a swatch of back post only single crochet ribbing:

1. Make a foundation chain of any length, plus one turning chain.
2. Starting in the second chain from the hook, single crochet into every chain.
3. At the end of the row, make a turning chain of one, and single crochet into the back loop only of every stitch from the previous row.

Repeat step 3 as many times as needed.

Notes

• The swatch pictured measures 2” x 3.5”. It is 12 stitches high and 16 rows wide.
• This ribbing has moderate elasticity – it stretches to about 25% wider than its original width.
• It has a great three-dimensional texture.

3. Back loop only half double crochet

Once you’ve mastered back loop only single crochet, back loop only crochet with other stitches isn’t going to spring you any surprises. Back loop only half double crochet is exactly how it sounds. But since the stitches are wider and taller than single crochets, it only takes two thirds as many stitches to cover the same area.

To make a swatch of back post only half double crochet ribbing:

1. Make a foundation chain of any length, plus two turning chains.
2. Starting in the third chain from the hook, half double crochet into every chain.
3. At the end of the row, make a turning chain of two, and half double crochet into the back loop only of every stitch from the previous row.

Repeat step 3 as many times as needed.

Notes

• The swatch pictured measures 2” x 3.5”. It is 11 stitches high and 10 rows wide.
• This ribbing has moderate elasticity – it stretches to about 25% wider than its original width.
• If you stretch it out repeatedly, it gets sluggish returning to its original shape.
• It’s best suited to making cuffs and waistbands on boxy cardigans and sweaters. Basically anywhere that it only needs to look the part, and not actually do any work!
• It’s also a lovely choice for headbands on beanie hats.

4. Back loop only double crochet

Once you start using double crochet for ribbing, it stops having a pronounced corrugated feel. So it’s not very convincing or functional for cuffs or waistbands. But it does still have a neat and distinct visual stripe, so it’s a stylish choice for sweaters and hats that are ribbed all over.

To make your own swatch of back loop only double crochet:

1. Make a foundation chain of any length, plus two turning chains.
2. Starting in the third chain from the hook, double crochet into every chain.
3. At the end of the row, make a turning chain of two, and double crochet into the back loop only of every stitch from the previous row.

Repeat step 3 as many times as needed.

Notes

• The swatch pictured measures 2” x 3.5”. It is 12 stitches high and 8 rows wide.
• It will stretch to 30 or 40% wider than its original width.
• But due to the length of the stitches, it does look significantly more ‘gappy’ than the other swatches when stretched right out.

5. 3rd loop only half double crochet

One more approach to ribbing that I think you ought to know about is third loop only half double crochet. It’s a stunner:

The third loop of a half double crochet stitch is the loop below the front loop. When you make your next row into the the third loops of the previous row, your new row will overlap the top edge of the previous row. It creates fantastic three-dimensional texture with deep grooves and sharp ridges.

To make a swatch of your own:

1. Make a foundation chain of any length, plus two turning chains.
2. Starting in the third chain from the hook, half double crochet into every chain.
3. At the end of the row, make a turning chain of one, and half double crochet into the third loop only of every stitch from the previous row.

Repeat step 3 as many times as needed.

Notes

• The swatch pictured measures 2” x 3.5”. It is 11 stitches high and 12 rows wide.
• But it has the least elasticity of these five options – it only stretches about 15 or 20% wider than its original width.
• It’s easy to miss the last stitch of each row when you’re making this stitch. This row looks finished but the the third loop of the final stitch is indicated by the red arrow and hasn’t been worked into yet. Don’t forget it!

Ribbing first, or ribbing second?

For garments that include crochet ribbing, you can start with the ribbing, or finish with the ribbing. When you’re following a pattern, there will be instructions about which way round to do it. For projects you’re designing yourself or freestyling as you go (like my granny square cardigan!) you’ll need to make your own choice.

Ribbing first

It’s usual to make the ribbing first in lots of beanie hat patterns, and sweater patterns where the front and back panels are made from the bottom up. Since ribbing is worked from left to right, you make the ribbed section up to the width required, then turn your work 90° and join a new row of stitches to the posts of the stitches on the long edge of your ribbing.

Ribbing second

With sweaters and cardigans, adding ribbing to the cuffs last is pretty much inevitable. It’s also the last step for adding a waistband to a top-down sweater. And it’s a very traditional way of adding a button band along the opening of a cardigan. When the ribbing is the last part of your project, you can:

1. Make it in a long strip, and sew it onto the edge of your project.
2. Or join it as you go.

Joining it as you go is simpler in most cases, because you don’t have the extra step of sewing it on. Here’s how it’s done.

How to join crochet ribbing as you go

I don’t have enough squares to construct my granny square cardigan yet, but I’ve joined three of them here to make the end of a sleeve, and demonstrate how I’ll join a ribbed cuff to it.

The squares are joined with mattress stitch, and I’m also going to add a foundation row of single crochet. The foundation row is optional, but I think it will really help tie the granny square sleeve and ribbed cuff together. I’ve also decided I want a simple back post only single crochet rib for my cuff. The brightly colored granny squares are already quite a flamboyant choice, so I don’t think the ribbing needs to make a design statement too.

Starting the cuff

Step 1: Make a chain the length depth you want your cuff to be. I’ve chosen 10 stitches.

Step 2: Make 1 turning chain, and single crochet into each of the chain stitches.
Step 3: Slip stitch into the next two stitches at the end of your sleeve, as indicated by the yellow stars.

Before starting the next row, you’ll need to bring the yarn around in front of your hook like this, so it’s behind your work again:

It feels clumsy, and a bit wrong, but don’t worry, it’s going to work!

Step 4: Single crochet into the back loop only of the single crochet stitches from the previous row. Take care not to mistake either of the slip stitches for the first single crochet.

Repeat steps 2 – 4 all the way around the edge of your sleeve, finishing at the end of step 2.

Adjusting fit

The slip stitches in step 3 serve to gather up the end of your sleeve so that the cuff has to stretch out and fit snugly around your wrist. You can use two slip stitches at a time, or three to make your cuff even narrower. Or you can use a mix of both! I’ve decided to make two slip stitches in most instances, but in four places I’m going to make three. I’ve placed the stitch markers by eye to spread those places out evenly. Honestly, I made this decision based on a hunch, but I’m pleased with how it turns out in the end. If I hadn’t been I would have unravelled the cuff, and tried again with a different sequence of making 2 or 3 slip stitches at a time. Sometimes a bit of experimenting is unavoidable!

When you’ve worked all the way around the end of your sleeve, cut the yarn and pull the end all the way through the final stitch. Use it to join the seam in your cuff using mattress stitch.

And job done! All I need is the rest of a cardigan to graft it onto now!

Getting started with crochet ribbing – summary

Crochet ribbing behaves differently to the knitted ribbing we’re used to on store bought clothes, and because if that it takes some getting used to. But there are lots of versatile, beautiful, and functional ways to apply it to garments add other crochet projects. Once you’ve used it a few times and you’re starting to feel familiar with it, you’re sure to find your own favorite technique. Have fun, and let us know if this article has been helpful in the comments box down below!

The post Getting Started With Crochet Ribbing appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

What could be cuter than a granny square with a heart motif in the middle? Hearts are a popular shape for incorporating into crochet, knitting, embroidery and quilts. Maybe we just can’t resist making a point about the love we put into our work, or using the opportunity to make a statement about how we feel about someone else! This modern heart granny square is a little different from other patterns I’ve seen, because it’s designed to pair perfectly with my star granny square pattern. It’s bright, bold, and cheerful, and I’m excited to share it with you!

• Why this pattern?
• Pattern notes
• Modern heart granny square pattern
• Heart granny variations to try

Why this pattern?

I’m not the first person to come up with a pattern for granny squares featuring a heart. There are loads out there, and a surprising number of possible approaches. I came up with this one specifically to go with my star granny square pattern. I wanted it to be:

• As solid and free from gaps as possible.
• Include 4 colors.
• Measure 4⅓ inches by 4⅓ inches when worked in worsted weight yarn on a size 7 hook.
• Bold and modern looking.
• And ideally, have the heart inside a pentagon, inside a square.

I’m pretty happy I’ve succeeded with the first four criteria, but the fifth is perhaps a little questionable! Nonetheless, the first, fourth, and fifth rows are exactly the same as for the star squares, so the proportions of the two designs combine really well together for projects with a combined heart and star motif.

I’m hoping to eventually turn all my squares into a bright and beautiful granny square cardigan. But hearts and stars are also a perfect pairing for unisex baby blankets, and cheerful sofa throws.

Pattern notes

This pattern uses standard U.S. crochet terms.

If made in worsted weight yarn on a size 7 (4.5mm) hook, it should measure about 4⅓ x 4⅓ inches (11 x 11cm) after blocking. You can make small adjustments to the size by using a smaller or larger hook. And you can make more significant changes to the size by working the final round in single crochet stitch rather than double crochet, or by adding additional rounds following the solid granny square formula. Of course you can always make the squares in a different weight of yarn and a suitably sized hook, too!

The pattern is worked in four colors, but you could stick to two or three if your prefer. Since the square is worked entirely in flat stitches, you really need to change color at least once between rounds 2 and 3, or the heart won’t stand out.

The pattern is symmetrical, and the pattern for the second half of each round is simply the reverse of the first half. So in the diagrams accompanying the pattern, I’ve only set out the details for the first half of each round.

Modern heart granny square pattern

Make a magic circle to start.

Round 1

Ch 3, dc 14 into the mc, sl st into the top of the ch 3.

Round 2

Ch 2, dc into the same space, tr 3 into the next space, dc 2 into the next space, hdc 4, (dc 1, tr 1, dc 1) into the next space, hdc 4, dc 2 into the next space, tr 3 into the next space, and (dc 1, ch 2, sl st) into the final space.

Here’s a diagram of where all those stitches are going – I’ve already work the ch 2 at the beginning, to create a bit of space for the arrows!

And here’s how it will look when you’re done:

Now cut your yarn and weave in the ends. Join your second yarn color into the top of the treble crochet at your heart’s point. Right here:

Round 3

Ch 2 (counts as 1 sc) and sc 1 into the same space. Hdc 1, dc 2 into the next space, dc 4, (dc 1, hdc 1) into the next space, hdc 1, sc 1, hdc 1, hdc 2 into the next space, dc 1. Dc 1 into top of the ch 2 from the previous round.

Now tr 2 into the space between the ch3 and final dc of round 1, as indicated by the little yellow star:

Dc into the top of the ch 2 from the previous round. Hdc 2 into the next space, hdc 1, sc 1, hdc 1, (hdc 1, dc 2) into the next space, dc 4, dc 2 into the next space, hdc 1. Sc1 into the next space – which should be the same space you started in. Sl st into the top of the ch 2 from the beginning of the round.

Cut your yarn and weave in the ends. You see the two treble crochets at the top of your heart? Join the next color of yarn into the one on the left.

Round 4

Ch 2 (counts as 1 sc), sc 1 into the same space. Hdc 1, dc 2, (tr 1, ch 2, tr 1) into the next space. Dc 1, hdc 1, sc 2, hdc 2, dc 2, (tr 1, ch 2, tr 1) into the next space. Hdc 1, sc 6, hdc 1, (tr 1, ch 2, tr 1) into the next space. Dc 2, hdc 2, sc 2, hdc 1, dc 1, (tr 1, ch 2, tr 1) into the next space. Dc 2, hdc 1, sl st into ch 2.

You should now have a broadly square shape, with 10 stitches along each side, and 2 chains at each corner. Cut your yarn and weave in the ends. Join your final color in any of the corner spaces.

Round 5

Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and 2 ch). Dc 2 into the same corner space. *Dc 10 along the side, (dc 2, ch 2, dc 2) into the next corner space* three times. Dc 10, dc into corner space, sl st into 3rd st of the ch 5.

Done! Cut your yarn and weave in the ends for a final time. Now block it to make your sides straight and your corners sharp, and hey presto, you’ve done it. Here’s how the finished result looks before and after blocking:

Heart granny variations to try

There are lots of other ways to make heart granny squares too. For example:

• Try following this pattern, but with just the heart in a contrast color. A blanket of red and pink hearts on a white background is especially kitsch and effective!
• Finish at the end of round 2, and use your heart as an applique embellishment on a solid granny square.
• Pick out a heart on a single color granny square using bobble stitch.
• Use color work to pick out a pixelated heart on a traditional granny square.

Modern Heart Granny Square Pattern – Summary

I hope you found this pattern easy to follow, and you’re going to give it a go. I’ll let you know how my cardigan turns out, when I’ve made enough of these grannies to start assembling it. Please also let us know what project you’ll be using your squares for, in the comments box down below.

The post Modern Heart Granny Square Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.