Crochet Techniques Archives - Lucy Kate Crochet

Back Loop Only Crochet

Lucy Kate — Fri, 27 Mar 2026 13:02:44 +0000

Crocheting into the back loop is a surprisingly common technique, even in patterns that are aimed at beginner crocheters. And although it looks like a very different skill, it’s one of those wonderful things that is much easier than it might appear at first. In fact, in my experience many new crocheters accidentally crochet into the back loop only without even meaning to!

A great way to practice back loop only crochet stitches with with my back loop pillow pattern! This is a double sided design, with one focussing on single crochets and the other on double crochets. I think you’ll be amazed by how different they turn out.

Stitch Anatomy

Make a row of crochet stitches, and look straight downwards at it. Ideally this will be a row of single or double crochets worked into a chain.

You can see two main loops that make up each of the stitches when observed from above. The closest to you is known as the front loop, the furthest away if the back loop.

Back Loop Only Crochet Pillow Pattern

A great way to practice this technique is with my simple pillow pattern. You will need:

200g green chunky yarn
200g white chunky yarn
100g blue chunky yarn
6mm crochet hook
Yarn needle
30 x 30 inch cushion pad

The stitches you’ll need to use are:

ch – chain
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
BLO – back loop only
cc – change color

Single Crochet Back Loop Only

Begin working in your green chunky yarn.

Row 1

ch 41

Row 2

sk1, sc BLO x 40

cc white

Row 3

ch1, sc BLO x 40

cc green

Row 4

ch1, sc BLO x 40

cc white

Row 5 – 46

Repeat row 3 – 40 until you reach the top of the cushion cover.

Double Crochet Back Loop Only

Begin working in your green yarn.

Row 1

ch42

Row 2

sk2, dc BLO x 40

Row 3 – 7

ch2, dc BLO x 40

cc white

Row 8 – 13

ch2, dc BLO x 40

cc blue

Row 14 – 19

ch2, dc BLO x 40

cc green

Row 20 – 25

ch2, dc BLO x 40

Sewing Together

Put the two sides together, and use your yarn needle and green yarn to sew three of the four sides together. Inside the cushion pad, then sew the final side closed.

The post Back Loop Only Crochet appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

How To Front Loop Only Crochet (And Make A Stunning Throw Pillow)

Lucy Kate — Fri, 27 Mar 2026 12:31:41 +0000

A few months ago I was teaching a friend to crochet, and they were getting very frustrated with the appearance of their stitches. It didn’t look bad, it just looked different to the pictures they were trying to follow. And that was because they were doing a crochet technique, just not the one that the pattern had dictated. What they were doing was crocheting, but just into the front loop only instead of the full stitch.

I tell you this story because it’s fabulous news for anyone who is new to crochet, that front loop only crochet is so simple that you can do it entirely by accident.

So let’s begin by taking a look at how to do it on purpose. And then I’ll show you how to practice while you make this cozy and stylish pillow!

Where to Hook

When you make a standard crochet stitch, you work your hook under and through the set of two loops at the top of the stitch you made in the previous round or row. With front loop only (often abbreviated to FLO) you work only into the loop nearest to you.

Let’s practice.

FLO Sample

Make a chain of about ten loops, then make a single crochet into each stitch.

Turn and hold the crocheted fabric so that you can see the top edge of the stitches. You’ll see each stitch has two upper loops, one nearer to you and another further away.

The loop nearest to you is the front loop.

To crochet into the front loop, insert your hook underneath it and out of the center of the stitch, as shown by the arrows in the image here:

This stitch creates a very similar appearance to a standard crochet stitch, but with an extra line across the crocheted material which is left by the loops that were not worked into.

And it’s really that simple.

Front Loop Only Crochet Pillow Pattern

So now let’s practice working into the front and back loops, with a crochet pillow pattern I created recently. It will really highlight how different these stitches are, and keep your interest as you switch back and forth.

What you’ll need

5mm crochet hook
100g cream DK yarn
50g dark pink DK yarn
50g light pink DK yarn
50g white DK yarn
50g oat DK yarn
50g brown DK yarn
30 inch cushion pad
Yarn needle

The Stitches

ch – chain
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
FLO – front loop only
BLO – back loop only
cc – change color

The front panel is just front loop only, so we’ll start there.

Front Panel

Begin in your dark pink yarn.

Row 1

ch52

Row 2

sk2, 1dc x 50

Row 3

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

cc cream

Row 4 – 7

ch2, 1hdc FLO x 50

cc light pink

Row 8 – 13

ch1, 1sc FLO x 50

cc white

Row 14 – 15

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

cc dark pink

Row 16 – 19

ch2, 1hdc FLO x 50

cc cream

Row 20 – 25

ch1, 1sc FLO x 50

cc light pink

Row 26 – 27

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

cc white

Row 28 – 31

ch2, 1hdc FLO x 50

cc dark pink

Row 32 – 37

ch1, 1sc FLO x 50

cc cream

Row 38 – 39

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Back Panel

Begin in the oat yarn

Row 1

ch52

Row 2

sk2, 1dc x 50

Row 3 – 4

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 5 – 6

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

cc brown

Row 7 – 8

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 9 – 10

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

cc cream

Row 11 – 12

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 13 – 14

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

cc oat

Row 15 – 16

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 17 – 18

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

cc brown

Row 19 – 20

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 21 – 22

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

cc cream

Row 23 – 24

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 25 – 26

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

cc oat

Row 27 – 28

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 29 – 30

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

cc brown

Row 31 – 32

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 33 – 34

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

cc cream

Row 35 – 36

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 27 – 38

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

cc oat

Row 39 – 40

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 41 – 42

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

cc brown

Row 43 – 44

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 45 – 46

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

cc cream

Row 47 – 48

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 49 – 50

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

cc oat

Row 51 – 52

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 53 – 54

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

cc brown

Row 55 – 56

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 57 – 58

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

cc cream

Row 59 – 60

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Row 61 – 62

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

Joining the Sides

You’ll notice the back panel has a lot more rows than the front. This is because the back loop only stitches create texture by sticking forward in ridges. To maintain these ridges rather than pull the fabric flat, you therefore need more rows.

Lay them together and sew around the edges using your yarn needle and cream yarn. Sew three sides, then insert the cushion pad and then sew the final side.

I recommend that you compress the pad with your hands and make sure to even out the filling beforehand, as they can be a little uneven otherwise.

Do not sew row by row, because your stitches on each side are different heights. If you find this hard to do by eye, use stitch markers to join it together before you begin.

The post How To Front Loop Only Crochet (And Make A Stunning Throw Pillow) appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Front Post Double Crochet – Tutorial and Free Pillow Pattern

Lucy Kate — Thu, 19 Mar 2026 13:38:23 +0000

Double crochets are one of the very first crochet stitches that any beginner crocheter learns. You spend ages working that hook through those top two loops, getting your tension just so, and creating neat stitches you can be proud of. Then you read ‘FPDC’ in a pattern. Front Post Double Crochet. And you have no idea where to put your hook anymore.

Don’t let it throw you, because it’s actually quite simple once you understand how and where your stitches can be made.

I’m going to walk you through making a front post double crochet, and then to help you practice, I’ll share my absolute favorite crochet pillow pattern. Which you might be a little bit pleased to hear, came into existence due to me getting confused about yet another crochet technique – the alpine stitch. But more on that in a moment!

How To Make A Front Post Double Crochet

Traditionally, crochet stitches are worked into the top of the stitch. The two most prominent loops from the stitches of the previous round. Front post crochet works into the front of the stitch from the previous row, around the long body of the stitch.

This image shows a needle marking where I am going to insert my hook to make the front post double crochet.

Let’s practice by making a little sample.

ch – chain
sk – skip
dc – double crochet
fpdc – front post double crochet

Row 1

chain 14

Row 2

sk2, dc x 12

Row 3

ch2, *(fpdc x 1, dc x 1). Repeat from * until the end of the row.

Row 4

ch2, 1dc x 12

Row 5 – 10

Repeat rows 3 and 4

Dropped Front Post Crochet Pillow Pattern

This pillow pattern is going to use a front post crochet, but instead of working it into the stitch from the previous round, you are going to jump down to the row below that. This is a great way to continue practicing the front post double crochet, because it helps you to really understand where the body of each stitch lies.

What You’ll Need

300g variegated chunky yarn
6mm crochet hook
30inch pillow pad
yarn needle

The Pillow Pattern

This pillow is worked in one long strip, which you will fold and then sew down the final three sides to join. For those who aren’t such big fans of hand sewing, it will have a very similar effect if you decide to crochet the sides together instead.

Row 1

ch61

Row 2

sk2, 1dc x 59

Row 3

ch1, 1sc x 59

Row 4

ch2, dc into first stitch, sk the next sc, instead making a fpdc into the dc stitch two rows down. dc into the next sc. *sk, fpdc into the next but one dc two rows below, dc into the next stitch. Repeat from * until the end of the row.

Row 5

ch1, 1sc in every stitch of the row

Row 6

ch2, dc in every stitch of the row

Row 7

ch1, 1sc in every stitch of the row

Row 8 – 69

Repeat rows 4 – 7

Sewing Your Cushion Together

Lay out the strip of crocheted fabric. Fold it on half and using your yarn needle sew down two of the sides.

Insert the cushion pad, and then sew down the final side.

The post Front Post Double Crochet – Tutorial and Free Pillow Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

8 Cute Crochet Pillow Ideas

Lucy Kate — Wed, 04 Mar 2026 09:29:50 +0000

Crochet Home Decor

I have been having so much fun recently coming up with new crochet pillow ideas. I’ve been taking inspiration from a range of stitches, from easy, beginner friendly techniques to more challenging crochet methods.

Whatever your current level of crocheting is, you’ll find a pattern that will work perfectly for your experience and your ideal home decor here.

Beginner Friendly Pattern

Spider Stitch Crochet Pillow

I absolutely love the spider stitch, because it looks incredibly detailed but fundamentally it’s actually just a combination of three quite basic crochet stitches.

This pattern is great for

Beginner crocheters who want to practice simple stitches in a new way
People who love a more 70’s style of design
Playing with color and using simple color changes

Bobble Stitches

This pillow was without a doubt the biggest surprise success of my crochet cushion project so far. Bobble stitches are a bit fiddly, and time consuming, so I thought making up this pillow would be a bit of a chore. But it wasn’t at all. Once I’ve got into the swing of it, I made it up pretty quickly and really enjoyed the process.

This is an intermediate design, ideal for people who want to stretch their skills or do something with a bit of extra texture.

Intermediate level Pattern

Waffle Stitch Pillow

I am such a huge fan of waffle stitches. The texture is amazing, and this pillow is definitely my favorite to cuddle up to on the couch!

This pattern is great for

Intermediate to advanced level crocheters
Beginner crocheters who want to challenge themselves and step up their skills
Practicing front post stitches and color changes
Creating a very textured, thick and distinctive crochet home decor item

Ripple Stitches

This pattern is perfect for confident beginners who want to get to grips with making shapes using their crochet stitches. It begins with a very simplified breakdown of how the ripple stitches are built which makes it really accessible to newer crocheters.

Advanced crochet pattern

Crochet Alpine Stitch Cushion

This is a repetitive stitch that is worked in sets of four, and involves working into the front posts of stitches that are two rows below your current working row. It produces a gorgeous diamond effect, and with a little bit of practice it looks absolutely amazing.

Try this pattern if

You love more complex crochet designs with plenty of texture
You are a confident intermediate or advanced crocheter
You love projects with more detail and a fabulous finish

The FLower!

I am so pleased with how this thick crochet flower pillow turned out. It’s beginner friendly and worked just like you would a simple crochet plushie in the round.

You’ll need a bit of hand sewing, but it will be well worth the effort to have this cute flower on your couch!

Front Post

This crochet pillow is one of the most unusual ones I’ve produced yet, because it came from a mistake! I forgot how to make alpine stitches, but this happy accident led to a very beautiful new design.

Another Cute Pillow!

Third Loop Crochet with a Free Camel Stitch Pillow Pattern

Half double crochet stitches have something a bit special about their structure. The third loop of the stitch stands in a horizontal position at the back of the stitch, and when you work into it in your next row, it creates a lovely textured stitch that adds warmth and definition to your half double crochet…

The post 8 Cute Crochet Pillow Ideas appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

How To Crochet Alpine Stitch (With Free Pillow Pattern)

Lucy Kate — Sat, 28 Feb 2026 19:54:47 +0000

I am a big fan of crocheting with the alpine stitch now, but the first few times I tried it, this stitch went seriously wrong. I hope that with the detailed steps below, and important bullet pointed notes, you’ll avoid the pitfalls I slipped into on my first few tries.

Once you’ve got the hang of these simple steps, just scroll down the page to find my free crochet alpine stitch throw pillow pattern. It’s a really fun one and works up faster than you’d think.

Things To Remember

This is a repetitive stitch that is worked in sets of four, and involves working into the front posts of stitches that are two rows below your current working row. It differs from other stitches in a few ways that you need to keep in mind whilst working on it:

Your first stitch always goes into the base of the starting chain. The chain is not the first stitch of the row.
The front post stitches are made into every other dc, two rows below your current row.

Alpine Stitch In Simple Steps

The alpine stitch is a beautiful technique that has a lot of people, understandably, scratching their heads. I think it’s one of those techniques that is best practiced in small samples, to make sure you are following it correctly before moving onto a bigger project.

Row 1

Make a chain with an odd number of stitches + 2. My example is a chain of 17.

Row 2

sk2, then 1dc for the length of the row

Row 3

ch1, 1sc into each stitch

Row 4

Row 5

ch1, 1sc in every stitch of the row

Row 6

ch2, dc x 2, then sk the next stitch and fpdc around the dc two rows down between the raised stitches. *dc into the next stitch, sk1 and fpdc two rows below in the same manner. Repeat from * for the rest of the round, ending with dc x 2.

Row 7 onwards

Work as a four row repeat, repeating rows 3 – 6 as many times as your project requires.

My Alpine Stitch Throw Pillow Pattern

To make this cushion I used:

150g yellow DK cotton blend yarn
150g orange DK cotton blend yarn
150g black DK cotton blend yarn
4mm crochet hook
30 x 30 inch cushion pad
Yarn needle

Begin working with your yellow yarn.

Row 1

ch61

Row 2

sk2, 1dc x 59

Row 3

ch1, 1sc x 59

Row 4

Row 5

ch1, 1sc in every stitch of the row

Row 6

Row 7 – 24

Repeat repeating rows 3 – 6

cc orange

Row 25 – 48

Repeat repeating rows 3 – 6

cc black

Row 49 – 72

Repeat repeating rows 3 – 6

cc yellow

Row 73 – 96

Repeat repeating rows 3 – 6

cc orange

Row 97 – 120

Repeat repeating rows 3 – 6

cc black

Row 121 – 141

Repeat repeating rows 3 – 6

Row 142

ch1, sc in every stitch of the row

Joining

Fold your crocheted fabric in half, and using a yarn needle and your yellow yarn sew down two sides. Insert your pillow, and sew down the final side to close.

The post How To Crochet Alpine Stitch (With Free Pillow Pattern) appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

How To Crochet Ripple Stitch For Complete Beginners

Lucy Kate — Fri, 27 Feb 2026 14:15:33 +0000

Crocheted ripple stitches look amazing, and once you’ve got the hang of them they are surprisingly easy to produce. However, although they are often touted as a great beginner stitch, a lot of people have issues producing them to begin with. And I think I know why. It’s because to understand how it works, you need to start small. And I mean really small.

Today I’ll share my ultra simple, everyone friendly guide to crocheting ripple stitch, and then a beginner friendly pattern to create a cushion cover to practice your amazing newfound ripple stitch skills.

Getting Started – The Simplest Sample

To understand the ebb and flow of a ripple stitched crochet blanket, I find that making a tiny sample of just one section of it helps people to get to grips with the structure of the pattern.

The Stitches You Will Need to Know

sk – skip the next stitch
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
tr – treble crochet
2dc – make two double crochets into the same stitch, this is written in some patterns as ‘inc’
dc2tog – join two stitches together with one double crochet
hdc x 2 – make one hdc into each of the next two stitches
dc x 2 – make one dc into each of the next two stitches

How to dc2tog

To join two stitches together with one double crochet, begin as you would with a normal dc, but retain two loops on your stitch, then work straight into the next stitch, and finish by pulling through when you have three loops on the hook.

The Easiest Crochet Ripple Stitch Sample

If this is your first time rippling, I recommend using a DK cotton blend yarn that is approximately 50/50 cotton and acrylic in a bright color, and a 4.5mm crochet hook. Other options are fine too, it’s just the cotton makes the stitches really well defined and easy to see.

Row 1

Make a chain of 11 stitches.

One of these will be your skipped stitch, so going forward you will have ten stitches at the end of each row. Ripple stitching in the pattern shared here will always be started with a chain that is a multiple of ten plus one.

To see your rows even more clearly, you might like to swap colors between each row from now onwards, but this is just a practice sample so it’s absolutely not essential.

Row 2

sk, sc, hdc x 2, dc, tr x 2, dc, hdc x 2, sc

Row 3

dc2tog, dc x 2, 2dc x 2, dc x 2, dc2tog

Row 4 onwards

Repeat row 3 until the second to last row

Final Row

tr, dc x 2, hdc, sc x 2, hdc, dc x 2, tr

My Ripple Stitch Throw Pillow Pattern

To produce this pattern I used a chunky weight yarn with a 6.5mm crochet hook.

You will need:

200g yellow chunky yarn
200g blue chunky yarn
200g green chunky yarn
6.5mm crochet hook
Cushion pad
Yarn needle

Side One

Begin working in the pale blue color.

Row 1

Make a chain of 41 stitches

Row 2

sk, *(sc, hdc x 2, dc, tr x 2, dc, hdc x 2, sc). Repeat from * until the end of the row.

cc yellow

Row 3

*(dc2tog, dc x 2, 2dc x 2, dc x 2, dc2tog). Repeat from * until the end of the row.

cc green

Row 4 – 25

Repeat row three, changing color each row in the following pattern:

yellow
light blue
yellow
green

Your 25th row should land on the yellow color.

Then cc to light blue for the final row as follows:

Row 26

tr, dc x 2, hdc, sc x 2, hdc, dc x 2, tr

Tie off and place to one side for sewing later.

Side Two

Begin working in the light blue color

Row 1

ch41

Row 2

sk, *(sc, hdc x 2, dc, tr x 2, dc, hdc x 2, sc). Repeat from * until the end of the row.

Row 3 – 9

*(dc2tog, dc x 2, 2dc x 2, dc x 2, dc2tog). Repeat from * until the end of the row.

cc yellow

Row 10 – 17

*(dc2tog, dc x 2, 2dc x 2, dc x 2, dc2tog). Repeat from * until the end of the row.

cc green

Row 18 – 25

*(dc2tog, dc x 2, 2dc x 2, dc x 2, dc2tog). Repeat from * until the end of the row.

Row 26

tr, dc x 2, hdc, sc x 2, hdc, dc x 2, tr

Joining The Sides

Place the two sides together, and sew around the edge using a yarn needle and your yarn. I worked into the front loops only, on adjacent stitches on each side.

Sew three sides, then insert the pad and sew the final side.

The post How To Crochet Ripple Stitch For Complete Beginners appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

How To Crochet Mesh Stitch and The Perfect Market Bag

Lucy Kate — Thu, 19 Feb 2026 17:53:25 +0000

Once you learn to crochet mesh stitch you open up a huge world of projects, including the classic crochet market bag. This isn’t just an easy crochet stitch to master, it’s one that uses very little yarn to make some impressively large and practical projects. What could be better!

How To Crochet Mesh Stitch

Mesh might look intimidating, but it’s actually one of the most fabulously easy crochet techniques around. Can you make a chain? Can you slip stitch? Then congratulations, you can crochet mesh with the best of them.

Crochet mesh involves making a series of even length chains, slip stitching first into the starting chain or stitches, then into the chains made in the previous rounds.

It’s wonderfully versatile too, because you can make the chains in different lengths to give really quite different effects.

Diamond Crochet Mesh

This mesh stitch produces wide diamonds and is the one I make use of the most often. The chains are three loops long, and on each progressing row you work into the previous chain loop with your slip stitch.

The length of your chain makes a huge difference to how the finish of your mesh stitch will look.

Square Crochet Mesh Stitches

A less common way to crochet mesh is working little squares instead of diamonds. The method is very similar, but you make single or double crochets stacked in each row, with the chains between them.

I think the best way to practice crocheting mesh is with a simple pattern, and my favorite is my market bag.

Crochet Mesh Stitch Market Bag

For this bag you will need 150g green DK cotton blend yarn, and 100g cream DK cotton blend yarn.

Begin in your green cotton blend DK yarn using a 4mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches (8)

Round 2

ch2, 1dc in the same stitch, 2sc x 7, slst into top of chain (16)

Round 3

ch2, 2dc, (1dc, 2dc) x 7, slst into top of ch2 (24)

Round 4

ch2, 1dc, 2dc, (1dc x 2, 2dc) x 7, slst into top of ch2 (32)

Round 5

ch2, 1dc x 2, 2dc, (1dc x 3, 2dc) x 7, slst into top of ch2 (40)

Round 6

ch2, 1dc x 3, 2dc, (1dc x 4, 2dc) x 7, slst into top of ch2 (48)

Round 7

ch2, 1dc x 4, 2dc, (1dc x 5, 2dc) x 7, slst into top of ch2 (56)

Round 8

ch2, 1dc x 5, 2dc, (1dc x 6, 2dc) x 7, slst into top of ch2 (64)

Round 9

ch2, 1dc x 6, 2dc, (1dc x 7, 2dc) x 7, slst into top of ch2 (72)

Round 10

ch2, 1dc x 7, 2dc, (1dc x 8, 2dc) x 7, slst into top of ch2 (80)

Round 11

ch2, 1dc x 8, 2dc, (1dc x 9, 2dc) x 7, slst into top of ch2 (88)

Round 12

ch2, 1dc x 9, 2dc, (1dc x 10, 2dc) x 7, slst into top of ch2 (96)

Round 13

ch2, 1dc x 10, 2dc, (1dc x 11, 2dc) x 7, slst into top of ch2 (104)

Round 14

*(ch3, sk1, slst). Repeat from * for the length of the round, then slst into the top of the first chain gap

Round 15 – 20

*(ch3, slst into the next chain gap). Repeat from *, working in a continuous manner for these rounds.

Round 21

ch2, *1sc into the top of the chain loop, ch1. Repeat for the length of the round, then slst into the first chain of the chain 2.

cc to cream

Round 22 – 23

ch2, then 1dc into every stitch

Round 24

*(ch3, sk1, slst). Repeat from * for the length of the round, then slst into the top of the first chain gap

Round 25 – 31

*(ch3, slst into the next chain gap). Repeat from *, working in a continuous manner for these rounds.

Round 32

ch2, *1sc into the top of the chain loop, ch1. Repeat for the length of the round, then slst into the first chain of the chain 2.

Round 33 – 34

ch2, then 1dc into every stitch

cc green

Round 35

*(ch3, sk1, slst). Repeat from * for the length of the round, then slst into the top of the first chain gap

Round 36 – 43

*(ch3, slst into the next chain gap). Repeat from *, working in a continuous manner for these rounds.

Round 44

ch2, *1sc into the top of the chain loop, ch1. Repeat for the length of the round, then slst into the first chain of the chain 2.

Round 45 – 46

ch2, then 1dc into every stitch

Round 47

*(ch3, sk1, slst). Repeat from * for the length of the round, then slst into the top of the first chain gap

Round 48 – 53

*(ch3, slst into the next chain gap). Repeat from *, working in a continuous manner for these rounds.

Round 54

ch2, *1sc into the top of the chain loop, ch1. Repeat for the length of the round, then slst into the first chain of the chain 2.

Round 55 – 56

ch1, 1sc into every stitch, slst into the starting chain to close

Round 57

You are now going to make shell stitches around the top of the bag.

*sk1, 6dc, sk1, slst. Repeat from * around the entire row.

Hide the loose ends within the body of the bag, and you’re now ready to crochet the handle.

Crochet Bag Strap

I worked the strap from my crochet bag from a central chain, working into each side of it with three rows of single crochets, one side in green and the other in cream.

To begin, fold your bag in half and make sure that there are the same number of shell stitches on each side. Mark the two far sides with a stitch marker, this will show you where to attach each end of your handle.

Row 1

Begin at one stitch marker, attaching the yarn first. ch70, then slst into the opposite side of the bag where your other stitch marker is placed.

Row 2

slst into the next stitch on the shell, then make 1sc into each loop of the chain. slst into the next stitch at the starting side, adjacent to your starting point.

Row 3 – 4

slst into the next stitch of the shell, make 1sc into each stitch of the strap, then slst into the shell at the far end of the bag.

Rows 5 – 7

For the other side of the handle, do exactly the same thing, working into the other side of your strap’s chain with the other color you used for your bag.

The post How To Crochet Mesh Stitch and The Perfect Market Bag appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Waffle Stitch Crochet Tutorial & Free Pillow Pattern

Lucy Kate — Thu, 19 Feb 2026 16:57:05 +0000

Of all the intermediate to advanced stitches, the waffle stitch is right up there with my favorites. It’s got amazing texture to it, which creates some stunning blankets. So recently I thought, why not use it for my current throw pillow project too!

Today I’ll walk you through crocheting the waffle stitch in simple steps, and then share my lastest home decor pattern that fully embraces this stunning stitch.

How To Crochet Waffle Stitch

Let’s begin with a short tutorial, showing how to make the waffle stitch in simple steps. But before we get into it, you need to make sure you are familiar with the stitches we’ll be using to crochet a waffle.

The Stitches

The waffle stitch is a combination of double crochet, front post double crochets and chains.

So to create a waffle stitch you need to be familiar with making front post double crochets. This stitch is exactly the same as a standard double crochet, but instead of working through the top of the next stitch, you need to insert the hook around the body of the stitch instead, from front to back to front.

Waffle stitch crochet tutorial

Waffle stitches break down into steps really nicely.

Foundation Row

Make a chain that is a multiple of 3 + 2.

Row 1

sk2, 1dc in every stitch of the row

Row 2

*1fpdc, 1dc x 2. Repeat from * until the end of the row and make 1fpdc into the final stitch.

Row 3

Ch2, *1fpdc x 2, 1dc. Repeat from * until the end of the row.

Row 4 onwards

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until the desired length is achieved.

Waffle Stitch Crochet Throw Pillow Pattern

I am so pleased with how this throw pillow has turned out. The texture of waffle stitch is famously thick and fabulous, but even so I was still thrilled with how it feels and how sturdy it seems.

To make this pattern you will need

100g light blue DK cotton blend yarn
100g yellow DK cotton blend yarn
100g dark blue DK cotton blend yarn
3.5mm crochet hook
30 x 30 inch cushion pad

The Front

Begin with your dark blue yarn

Row 1

ch62

Row 2

sk2, 1dc x 59

Row 3

*1fpdc, 2 x dc. Repeat from * until the end of the row.

Row 4

ch2, *fpdc x 2, 1dc. Repeat from * until the end of the row.

Row 5

1fpdc, 2 x dc. Repeat from * until the end of the row