Every crochet project starts with a single stitch. If you’re learning to crochet for the first time, you’re going to need to know the basic crochet techniques and stitches, including how to cast on, make chain stitches, and work one of the most simple crochet stitches: either single, half double, double, or treble crochet. But with one of those under your belt, you might be surprised just how far it can take you. I’m an anxious learner, and I think I made two blankets, a scarf and some wrist warmers using only double crochet, before I starting experimenting with the other basic stitches. And the silliest thing is, once you’ve learned one basic stitch, all the others follow easily from it – so I don’t even know what I was afraid of!

In order to get you off to a more confident start in crochet than mine, I’m going to take you step-by-step through all the foundation techniques, starting with casting on, holding your hook and yarn, and making the basic crochet stitches. Then we’ll finish with a look at tension made simple, and how the basic stitches can be combined to achieve more advanced results.

To skip ahead to any one of those techniques, you can click on these links:

• Casting on (attaching your yarn to the hook)
• Different ways to grip your hook
• Holding the yarn
• Chain stitch
• Single crochet
• Half double crochet
• Double crochet
• Treble crochet
• Slip stitch and casting off
• Tension and gauge made easy
• What to try next

The basic crochet stitches

If you’re not sure where you want to start, here’s how 10 rows of 10 stitches looks in the 4 main crochet stitches:

As you can see, the stitches get taller as you progress from single to treble crochet. Since all four types of stitch are only joined to their neighbors at the top and bottom, fabric crocheted with tall stitches is lighter and more open. Short stitches have smaller spaces between them, so they’re warm, but fabric made from them is also stiffer and less drapey.

Casting on (attaching your yarn to the hook)

Casting on in crochet is as simple as making a slip stitch and putting it on your hook. If you’ve already got a preferred method for making a slip knot, that’s great. If not, here are two easy ways to do it:

1. Using your hook (the method I was taught)

• Using your dominant (writing) hand, hold the yarn in front of the first two fingers of your other hand, so the yarn end dangles down towards your lap.
• Hold the yarn in place with the thumb of your non-dominant hand, and wrap the yarn around your fingers once, so it makes two parallel lines on the backs of your fingers, and criss-crosses in front of them.
• Flip your hand over, so the backs of your fingers face upwards, and use your crochet hook to pull the loop of yarn nearest your wrist underneath the loop of yarn nearest your fingertips.
• Keep pulling, and a slip knot will form on your hook.

2. On your finger (the way Lucy uses)

• Wrap the yarn twice around the index finger of your non-dominant hand.
• Lift the inside loop (nearest your wrist) over the outside loop (nearest your finger tip), and put it down on your finger.
• Lift the new inside loop (previously the outside loop) over the new outside loop (previously the inside loop) and over the end of your finger.
• Pull the slip knot tight, remove your finger, and place the loop on your hook.

Different ways to grip your hook

Crochet hooks come in all shapes, sizes, and materials, including metal, plastic, wood and bamboo. Some of them have an ergonomic handle, and some just have a flattened section near the hooked end to give your thumb some traction. You’ll hold your hook in your dominant hand – the one you use to write with. There are a few ways to hold your hook, and it’s just a matter of experimenting to find the one that’s comfortable for you. Don’t worry if it all feels a bit awkward at first. Persevere and it will all come together!

The two most common ways people hold their crochet hook are the pencil grip and the knife grip. Don’t get stressed about choosing between them: have a go holding the hook both ways, and press ahead with whatever feels the least weird. You’ll find that your fingers unconsciously find their own way into a position that works for you, and don’t worry if it’s not an exact replica of the pictures coming up. As long as it suits you, that’s all that matters!

The pencil grip

The pencil grip (and the knife grip come to that) looks exactly how it sounds. Assuming you hold your pen or pencil in a fairly orthodox fashion, grab your crochet hook and hold it in the same way. Your thumb should be on the inside of the hook (the same side as the inner edge of the hooked end). Your index finger should be on the outside (the same side as the outer edge of the hooked end), just about opposite from your thumb. The tip or side of your middle finger also rests on the hook to stabilize and maneuver it, and your ring finger might rest on the hook too, if it usually does when you hold a pencil.

The knife grip

You’re never going to believe this, but the knife grip means holding your crochet hook… like a knife! The thumb and middle finger are in a similar position to the pen grip, but the forefinger is extended towards the hook end of the hook. As you can see, the main difference from pencil grip is that the hook’s handle is under my fingers, rather than poking out between my thumb and forefinger. Incidentally, this is how you’ll see me holding my hook in the videos coming up.

Holding the yarn

You’re going to hold your yarn in your non-dominant hand. This next action is going to become muscle memory really quickly, but it will probably feel a bit clumsy at first:

• Hold the hook in front of you in your dominant hand, so the yarn leading to the ball hangs down in front of you.
• Hook the pinky finger of your non-dominant hand behind the yarn and loop the yarn under the pinky, up in front of your ring and middle fingers, then behind your index finger.

Your hands should only be an inch or two apart. But just like holding the hook, it doesn’t matter if you hold the yarn slightly unconventionally, or have your hands a little wide, as long as you can move them in a smooth and even motion.

How to crochet chain stitch

Abbreviation: Ch or ch

Lots of crochet projects start with a foundation chain, so that’s where we’re going to start too. A foundation chain is simply lots of chain stitches made in a row, into which the first row of crochet stitches will be made. Chain stitch is about as simple as crochet gets too, so it’s the perfect place to get to grips with controlling your yarn and hook.

Here’s a video showing how it’s done, with written instructions and step-by-step photos after:

• Cast on with a slip knot, and get your hook and yarn in position.
• Use the middle finger and thumb of your yarn-holding-hand to pinch the slip knot or the yarn tail, and hold it steady.
• Loop the yarn over your hook, from back to front. Once you’re making this movement confidently, you’ll probably find you’re moving the yarn up and over a bit, and the hook down and under a bit (1). But don’t overthink how you get there at the moment – fluidity will come with repetition!

• Line up the hooked end of your crochet hook ready to catch the yarn (2).
• Pull the yarn through your slip knot (3). And that’s it – chain stitch complete (4).
• Put the yarn over the hook from front to back again, and pull another loop through the loop already on your hook. That’s two chain stitches.
• Keep practising, until you can make lots of evenly sized chain stitches in a steady motion.

Anatomy of a chain stitch

Before we forge ahead with putting some crochet stitches in our foundation chain, let’s examine her a bit more closely. I bet you think she looks boring, huh? Well you won’t be saying that when you’re trying to work out where your first stitch goes.

Each chain has three parts: a top front loop, a top back loop, and a back loop underneath.

For the majority of projects, you’ll work the first row of crochet into the top back loops only. That leaves the top front loops free for joining the bottom edge to another piece of crochet later. But some people like to make their first row of stitches into the back loops. It’s a bit fiddly, but it leaves both of the top loops free an extra-strong join later. Have a go at both and see what you prefer – for the rest of the examples here, I’m going to use the top back loops only, because I prefer that.

Turning chains

The next thing to get to grips with are turning chains. Turning chains are little groups of chain stitches at the beginning of every row. They create height for the crochet stitches that follow them.

• Single crochet needs 1 turning chain at the start of the row.
• Half double crochet needs 2 turning chains at the start of a row.
• Double crochet needs 2 or 3 turning chains. Three is traditional, but it’s increasingly common to find patterns which only call for two. All I can say is, experiment, and find what works for you! If your tension is naturally on the loose side, two might be enough, and three might look baggy. If your tension is tight, you might need three to get enough height.
• Treble crochet needs 3 or 4 turning chains. As for double crochet, either follow the instructions in the pattern, or experiment to see which gives the tidiest edges for you – it might vary according to the yarn and hook you’re using.

You’ll also need to add turning chains to the end of your foundation chain, before you make your first row. So if you want to make a double crochet scarf 30 stitches wide, you’ll need to start with a foundation chain of 32 or 33 stitches. If you’re following a pattern, the pattern writer will usually include the turning chains for the first row in the number of foundation chains they tell you to make.

How to single crochet

Abbreviation: Sc or sc

At last, it’s time for some actual crochet! Single crochet is the simplest crochet stitch, and the smallest. It’s the building block for amigurumi toys, and heavily employed for projects that need strong, dense fabric, like dish cloths, coasters and reusable face scrubbies. To make a little sample of single crochet:

• Make a foundation chain 11 stitches long (10 spaces for single crochet stitches + 1 turning chain).
• Skip the first chain stitch and insert the hook through the 2nd chain stitch from the hook (1 & 2). If you skipped ahead to get here, and now you’re not quite sure which bit of the chain stitch to insert the hook through, go back to anatomy of a chain stitch!

• Loop your yarn over the hook from back to front (3).
• Use the hook to pull that loop of yarn through the chain stitch. Keep it on the hook! You have two loops on your hook now (4).
• Loop your yarn over the hook from back to front again (5).
• Use the hook to pull that loop through both of the other loops (6). Your first single crochet is complete!

Here’s that process in video form (by the way, none of these videos have sound – don’t adjust your volume control!)

Make another single crochet into each of the 9 stitches remaining on your foundation chain. This first row will probably curl up in a corkscrew as you go, but don’t worry, it will straighten out when you make the second row. In fact making a single twisty row is a popular technique in amigurumi for adding details like hair or sheep wool! When you get to the end of the foundation chain, count your stitches to make sure you have as many as you expected – the last space on your foundation chain can be easy to miss!

Turning your work

Congratulations, you’ve made your first row of crochet stitches – you’re officially a crocheter! Next you’re going to turn your work, and make another row going back in the other direction.

• First, make a turning chain of one chain stitch.
• Turn the first row 180° counterclockwise. The working yarn should come down in front of your work you’ve done so far.

Which way you turn your work isn’t actually as important as being consistent and turning it the same way every time, but I’m adamant that turning it counterclockwise produces neater sides. To begin a new row, insert the hook under both top loops of the last stitch from the previous row, and then follow the steps to make a single crochet.

Don’t forget to make another turning chain at the end of the row before starting row 3!

Moving on

Now you’ve mastered the single crochet stitch, all the other stitches you’ll ever need are really easy to pick up! The basic stitch mechanics – putting the yarn over the hook, and drawing through loops – are the same for all crochet stitches. All that changes is how many yarn overs and drawing through loops you do, and in what order.

Half double crochet

Abbreviation: Hdc or hdc

Half double crochet is a little taller, and a fraction wider than single crochet. On its own it makes a soft, dense fabric that’s popular for hats and sweaters. To make a sample:

• Chain 12 (10 spaces for stitches, and 2 turning chains).
• Put the yarn over the hook from back to front.
• Insert the hook into the 3rd chain from the hook.
• Put the yarn over the hook again.
• Grab the yarn with the hook and draw a loop through the chain stitch. You’ll have 3 loops on your hook.
• Put the yarn over the hook again, and draw it through all 3 loops. Stitch complete!
• Repeat in the remaining 9 chains.

• Make 2 turning chains, and turn your work counterclockwise.
• To begin the next row, skip the 2 turning chains, and insert the hook under both top loops of the last stitch from the previous row. Complete the row as before.

Here’s a video of half double crochet in action:

You might have noticed in these videos that I use the forefinger of my hook-holding hand to pinch the yarn against the side of the hook during motions. This isn’t necessary, and I’m pretty sure it’s even considered bad form by some crocheters. But it’s how I’ve always done it! You don’t have to do it if you can manipulate the yarn confidently without doing it. It’s all about finding what works for you, so that crochet is fun for you.

Double crochet (dc)

Abbreviation: Dc or dc

Double crochet is an absolute workhorse of a crochet stitch. It’s what traditional granny squares are made out of, not to mention countless decorative stitches like ripple stitch and waffle stitch. It’s a stalwart of blankets, scarves, and clothes. Double crochet is roughly twice the height of single crochet, and the same width. Which is what makes it so popular – you’ll cover the same area in half as many stitches as would need to make using single crochet!

To make a swatch:

• Chain 12 or 13 (10 spaces for stitches, and 2 or 3 turning chains). I’m using two turning chains.
• Bring the yarn over the hook from back to front.
• Insert the hook into the 3rd chain from the hook (4th if you’re using 3 turning chains).
• Yarn over, and draw a loop through the chain stitch. Now you’ll have 3 loops on your hook in total.
• Yarn over, and draw it through 2 of the loops on your hook. 2 loops remaining on your hook.
• Yarn over, and draw it through both remaining loops.

Here’s a video of that in action:

And here’s how the first finished row will look:

To start the next row, make 2 or 3 turning chains, and turn your work 180° counterclockwise. Skip the turning chains, put the yarn over the hook, and insert the hook under the top loops of the last stitch from the previous row to begin your first stitch.

Treble crochet

Also known as: Triple crochet
Abbreviation: Tr or tr

Since double crochet is twice the height of single crochet, it’s going to come as no surprise to you that treble crochet is three times the height of single crochet. It’s a talllllll stitch! And as it’s so tall – and bearing in mind it’s only attached to its neighbors at the top and bottom – it’s also noticeably gappy between the stitches. The gaps make it a little less versatile than the other stitches we’ve looked at so far, but it’s vital for creating space in lacy crochet patterns.

Here’s how to make a sample. I’m going to mix things up and show you the video first this time!

• Chain 13 or 14 (10 spaces for stitches, and 3 or 4 turning chains). I’m using three turning chains.
• Put the yarn over the hook twice.
• Insert the hook into the 4th chain from the hook (5th if you’re using 4 turning chains).
• Yarn over the hook, and draw a loop through the chain stitch. Now you have 4 loops on your hook in total.
• Yarn over the hook again, and draw it through 2 of the loops on your hook. 3 loops remaining on your hook.
• Put the yarn over again, and draw it through the next 2 loops. 2 loops remaining on the hook.
• Yarn over the hook one last time, and draw it through those last two loops.

To add another row, make 3 or 4 turning chains, and turn your work 180° counterclockwise. Skip the turning chains, put the yarn over the hook twice, and insert the hook under the top loops of the last stitch from the previous row to begin your first stitch.

Slip stitching

We’ve looked at all the main stitches for building crochet now, but there’s one more nifty little stitch you ought to know about, and that’s slip stitch. Slip stitches are important for making little joins and connections in crochet patterns. For example, granny squares are worked outwards from the center, and the start and end of each round are joined with a slip stitch. You can also use a slip stitch to cast off and finish a piece of crochet.

Since slip stitches have barely any height or elasticity, it’s almost unheard of to use them in rows for making fabric. One notable exception is back loop only slip stitch ribbing.

Tension and gauge made easy

The chances are you won’t get far in your crochet journey before you start seeing references to tension and gauge. Put simply, gauge is how big your stitches are, usually described as how many rows and how many stitches fit into a 4″ x 4″ square. Things which affect gauge are:

• the thickness of the yarn,
• the size of the crochet hook,
• and your tension.

Your tension is how tightly you work. If your tension is tight, your stitches will come up small, and if you’ll need more stitches and rows to make a 4″ square. If your tension is loose, your stitches will come up big, and you’ll need fewer stitches to make a 4″ square. Most importantly, tension is very personal, and variable. I tend to crochet loose, but my tension gets tighter if I’m stressed!

For lots of beginner patterns like blankets, bags, scarves and stretchy hats, tension and gauge aren’t a big deal, and your pattern might not even mention them. But for garments like sweaters, achieving the gauge specified by the pattern is vital for getting the size right! To achieve that, make a swatch using the same number of stitches and rows as the pattern say should fit in a 4″ square. If it comes up bigger than 4×4″, try again with a smaller hook. If it comes up smaller, try again with a larger hook. Simple!

What to try next

The simple stitches we’ve covered here today don’t just have to be used on their own. They can be combined in infinite ways to make produce decorative textures like:

Linen stitch

Feather stitch

Bean and mini bean stitch

Shell stitch

Ripple and wave stitches

Not to mention cute amigurumi critters!

In other words, the crochet world is your oyster now, so get stuck in and have fun!

The post Basic Crochet Techniques and Stitches appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

What do you think of this squishy crochet mouse pattern? Just like a real mouse, it’s cute as heck, but unlike most real mice it’s cuddly too! But my own personal favorite thing is how quickly it comes together in just a few simple shapes. I’ve made it with super bulky chenille yarn, so it’s extra soft and squashy, and big enough for my daughter to enjoy as a plush toy. But you could make it from lighter weight chenille yarn, and I’ve got notes to help you achieve the best results.

Materials

To make a mouse just like mine, you’ll need:

• Super bulky chenille yarns in light brown and pale pink. I’ve used Cygnet’s Jellybaby yarn in teddy bear, and Hobbii’s Toucan yarn in light pink. You could swap out the light brown yarn for pale gray or even white if you prefer.
• A small quantity of black yarn. I’ve used super bulky chenille again, but you could use almost any black yarn from your stash and double it up if necessary.
• A J-10 (6mm) crochet hook.
• Stitch markers. Or scraps of yarn in a contrasting color.
• ⅝ inch (16mm) safety eyes.
• A darning needle.
• Hi-loft, toy safe stuffing.

To make a smaller mouse, match a lighter weight chenille yarn with a crochet hook one size smaller than the yarn wrapper recommends. Using a small hook produces tight fabric which you can stuff firmly later with out little gaps opening up between the stitches. For the finest yarns, you’ll also need to use smaller safety eyes. Here’s (roughly!) how tall your mouse will turn out using different yarn weights, and what size eyes to use:

Pattern notes

I’ve written this pattern in standard American crochet terms. It uses almost entirely single crochet, with just a small number of longer stitches in the tail. The stitches and their abbreviations I’ve used are:

Ch chain stitch
Sl st slip stitch
Sc single crochet
Sc blo single crochet in the back loop only
Hdc half double crochet
Dc double crochet
Inc increase (make 2 single crochets in the same space)
Dec decrease

• Insert your hook into the front loop only of the next two stitches (fig. 1).
• Yarn over and pull through a loop. There are now two loops on the hook.
• Yarn over again, and draw through both loops (fig. 2).

Squishy crochet mouse pattern

This mouse is mostly body. Or giant head, depending on how you look at it! So let’s start there.

Body

Start your mouse’s body with either a magic circle, or by making 4 chain stitches and joining them in a circle with a slip stitch. Either method will work, but I find with fluffy chenilles the 4-ch loop is easier to tighten without snapping the yarn.

• 1st round: Ch 1, sc 8 into the magic circle or 4-ch loop, catching the yarn tail under the stitches as you go (8 sts). Gently pull the yarn tail to tighten the hole.
• 2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)
• 3rd round: *1 sc, inc* 8 times (24 sts)
• 4th round: *2 sc, inc* 8 times (32 sts)
• 5th round: *3 sc, inc* 8 times (40 sts)
• Rounds 6 – 23: Sc all the way round
• 24th round: 3 dec, sc 8, 6 dec, 8 sc, 3 dec (28 sts)
• 25th round: 3 dec, sc 2, 6 dec, 2 sc, 3 dec (16 sts)
• Put a stitch marker into the loop on your hook, and cut your yarn leaving a 24 inch tail.

Adding the eyes

Spread the body out flat in front of you. Since the decreases at the bottom of the body are bunched up, it will only lie flat with the decreases at the sides, giving you a distinct front and back.

Insert the safety eyes through the front of the body, about 7 or 8 stitches apart between rows 11 and 12. Obviously the aim is to get them as evenly positioned either side of the center line as possible, but it doesn’t matter if one eye is a stitch out, if it makes the spacing between them more appealing.

When you’re confident with the position of the eyes, press the backs on firmly.

Closing the body

Before you close the body, stuff it firmly with toy safe stuffing. Then put the last stitch from round 25 onto your hook and make one more round:

• 26th round: 8 dec, sl st (8 sts)

Poke in a little more stuffing if it will fix, then thread the remaining yarn tail onto a darning needle and sew the remaining hole closed. It’s not too important how you sew it closed exactly, but for the neatest result, you can’t beat using mattress stitch through the front loops only. The first picture below shows where the stitches go. Then pinch the beginning of the seam firmly with one hand, and pull the yarn tail firmly in the other direction with the other. The join should zip right up!

Adding the face

Here’s where we’re at so far:

To make a cute little button nose, grab your black yarn and start with a either a magic circle or a 3-ch loop (that’s not a typo – 3 chains, not 4!). Into the loop, sc 3, and sl st. Cut the yarn leaving a 12” tail and pull the tail right through the slip stitch.

Position the top of the nose about level with the center of the eyes, and sew it in place. Use the remaining yarn tail to embroider a mouth, then poke what’s left of it inside the body.

Finally, use some of your pink yarn to give your mouse long, translucent-looking whiskers (or skip to the end of the pattern to see how they’d look in white!). I started mine by pushing the darning needle into the back of the body, and right through to the front, at a spot just next to the nose. Then I made three whiskers on either side of the nose, and after the last whisker I pushed the needle right through to the back of the body again – coming out at the same place I went in earlier. Then I knotted the yarn tails together, trimmed them short, and poked the knot inside the body. The stuffing will keep it anchored in place.

The ears

With your pink yarn, make a magic circle or 4-chain loop.

• 1st round: Ch 1, then catching the yarn tail under your stitches, sc 8 into the magic circle or 4-ch loop (8 sts). Gently pull the yarn tail to tighten the center of the ear.
• 2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)
• 3rd round: *1 sc, inc* 8 times (24 sts)

In the first stitch of round 4, change color back to brown:

Insert the hook into the next stitch and draw through a loop of pink yarn.
Pick up the brown yarn and put it over the hook from back to front, then pull a loop of the brown yarn through both pink loops. Cut the pink yarn leaving a 3” tail, and continue with the brown yarn.

• 4th round: *2 sc, inc* 8 times (32 sts)
• Pause and tie the pink and brown yarn ends together, then trim them to about an inch long.
• 5th round: Sc blo all the way round (32 sts)
• 6th round: *2 sc, dec* 8 times (24 sts)
• 7th round: *1 sc, dec* 8 times (16 sts)
• 8th round: 8 dec, sl st (8 sts)

Cut the yarn leaving a 8” yarn tail, and sew the remaining hole closed using the mattress stitch technique above. Repeat the whole process to make a second ear.

Then, using a doubled-up length of brown yarn, sew the ears onto the top of the head. If you have some knitting needles, skewers, or chopsticks to hand, they’re really useful for holding the ears in position while you sew. Just insert them through the top of the ear and right down into the body. I use two for each ear, so the ear can’t spin around.

Tail time

My mouse’s finishing touch is his tail.

1. Using the pink yarn, make a slip knot with a 12” tail for joining to the body later.
2. Ch 18
3. Sk 1, sl st, sc, hdc, dc 14.
4. Cut the yarn leaving an 8” tail. Put the yarn tail onto a darning needle, then thread it through the last loop on your hook, to stop the stitches unravelling.
5. Fold the tail in half lengthways, with the backs of the stitches facing outwards. Whip stitch each of the chain stitches from step 2 to the top of their corresponding stitch in step 3, to make a long tube which tapers to a point at the end.
6. Thread any remaining yarn tail down inside the tail to hide it, then use the yarn tail from step 1 to attach the tail to the body.

Squishy crochet mouse complete

And here it is!

A day or so after finishing my mouse, I decided to see how he’d look with white whiskers instead. I think either works, and my camera really isn’t capturing much difference at all! I do slightly prefer the contrast of the white in real life, but if you don’t already have white and you don’t want to buy a whole ball just for this project, the pink totally works, and the pared back color palette is pretty effective in it’s own way. Here’s pink on the left, and white on the right (you’ll kind of have to take my word for it!)

Whatever fur color and whisker color you chose, and whatever size you make it in, I hope you have lots of fun with this pattern. And don’t forget to make him a cute puppy or adorable frog pal now too!

Happy crocheting!

The post Squishy Crochet Mouse Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Hello and welcome to my squishy crochet frog pattern. Well I suppose since he’s dry and bumpy rather than smooth and shiny he’s really a squishy crochet toad pattern. But then again he has a goofy smile and no back legs, so maybe it’s not the time for getting hung up on accuracy! This simple amigurumi project is fast, and lots of fun to make. I’ll take you through the steps with the help of lots of photos, so even if you’re new to crochet you’ll be cuddling your own frog in no time!

Materials

To make your own cuddly frog, you’ll need:

• Super bulky chenille yarn for the body, eyes, arms, and tummy patch. I used King Cole Yummy yarn in green, and Cygnet Jellybaby yarn in teddy, which is a pale brown. The eyes and tummy patch would also look fantastic in yellow or lighter green. I only chose brown because I already had it in my stash and I was impatient to starting developing the pattern without having to go to the store first!
• A small quantity of black yarn for the mouth. I used bulky chenille again, but almost any black yarn would work.
• Size J (6mm) crochet hook
• Stitch markers or scraps of yarn
• ⅝” (16mm) safety eyes
• 2oz (55g) toy safe stuffing
• Darning needle

You could also make this pattern using lighter weight chenille yarn, with an appropriately sized hook and smaller safety eyes for pupils. My frog is about 7″ tall, but with bulky yarn he’d be 6″ tall, worsted yarn he’d be 5″ tall, and DK yarn he’d be 4″ tall. I haven’t had a chance to test whether the eyes and arms would be as effective in non-chenille yarns yet – let me know in the comments if you try it!

Squishy crochet frog pattern

I’ve written this pattern in standard U.S. crochet terms. The stitches and their abbreviations you’ll need to know are:

Ch chain
Sl st slip stitch
Sc single crochet
Inc increase (make 2 single crochets in the same space)
Hdc half double crochet
Hdc-inc half double crochet increase (make 2 half double crochets in the same space)
Dc double crochet
Dec decrease (see below)

Decreasing in amigurumi

For your decreases, I recommend using the invisible decrease method, because it does exactly what it says in the name! If you haven’t tried it before, it goes like this:

1. Insert the hook through the front loops only of the next two stitches (below left).
2. Draw through a loop of yarn (two loops remaining on the hook).
3. Yarn over the hook and draw through both loops (below right).

Decrease complete!

The body

Using your green yarn:

Ch 4 and sl st into the furthest stitch to join.
1st round: Ch 1, sc 8 into the magic circle or 4-ch loop (8 sts)
2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)
3rd round: *1 sc, inc* 8 times (24 sts)
4th round: *2 sc, inc* 8 times (32 sts)
5th round: *3 sc, inc* 8 times (40 sts)
Rounds 6 – 20: Sc all the way round
21st round: 3 dec, sc 8, 6 dec, 8 sc, 3 dec (28 sts)
22nd round: 3 dec, sc 2, 6 dec, 2 sc, 3 dec (16 sts)

Stuff the body firmly with toy safe stuffing.

23rd round: 8 dec, sl st (8 sts)

Cut the yarn leaving a 8” tail. Poke in a bit more stuffing if it will fit, then sew the remain stitches closed using mattress stitch.

If you haven’t used mattress stitch before, it’s really handy for closing the body and eyes of your frog neatly. Each stitch goes through the front loops only of round 23, following the order in the first picture below. Make the stiches loosely at first (second picture) then pull them tight one at a time, or hold the start firmly and pull the yarn tail in the opposite direction (third picture).

Belly patch

Using your brown, yellow or lighter green yarn:

Ch 4 and sl st into the furthest stitch to join.
1st round: Ch 1, sc 8 into the magic circle or 4-ch loop (8 sts)
2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)
3rd round: Sl st, sc, hdc-inc, hdc, inc, sc 2, inc 2, sc 2, inc, hdc, hdc-inc, sc, sl st (22 sts)
4th round: Sl st 3, inc, hdc-inc 2, *sc, inc* 5 times, sc, hdc-inc 2, inc, sl st 2 (33 sts)

Cut the yarn leaving a long tail (about 18”) for sewing. Pull the yarn tail right through the last slip stitch.

Now grab the body again. Since the decreases at the base are bunched up at the sides, the front and back of the body should be distinctly flattened (there’s no difference between them – you choose which is which!) Position the belly patch in the center of the front of the front of the body, lining the bottom edge up with about round 19 or 20 on the body. Sew it in place using the yarn tail – for the neatest result pick up two stitches at a time from the edge of the belly patch, through the back loops only (as in the photo below).

Making the eyes

Starting with your contrast color yarn (brown, yellow or green):

Ch 4 and sl st into the furthest stitch to join.
1st round: Ch, 8 sc into the 4-ch loop (8 sts)
2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)

In the next round, change color to green during the first single crochet:

• Insert yarn into the next stitch and draw through a loop of brown yarn.
• Loop the green yarn over you hook from back to front, and draw it through both brown loops on the hook.
• Cut the brown yarn leaving a short tail, and knot the green and brown yarn tails together tightly.

Joining the eyes to the body

Position the eyes on top of the head so the gap between them at the narrowest point is between half an inch and an inch. There’s going to be an obvious place on the front of the eyes where the yarn color changes to green. It doesn’t matter where this goes, as long as it’s at the same position on both eyes – you can see I’ve positioned it at roughly 2 o’clock.

An optional but handy way to hold them in place while you sew is by pushing two double-ended knitting needles, mattress needles, or metal chopsticks through the top of the eye and down into the body (using two stops the eye spinning). You could even use two handle-less crochet hooks, but be very careful how you remove them!

Sew around the perimeter where the eye meets the body using more green yarn, and hide the yarn ends inside the body.

Making the arms

Making fiddly tubular limbs is my least favorite part of amigurumi, which is why my squishy designs don’t usually have them! But these cute little forearms are made slightly differently – and they’re very fast to whip up!

Foundation chain: Using your green yarn, ch 8.
1st row: Sk 2, dc 6.
2nd row: Fold the row of stitches into a tube lengthways. Starting with the dc nearest the hook, insert the hook through the unused loop of the foundation chain at the bottom of the stitch and through the top loops of the dc. Yarn over and pull through all three loops to make a slip stitch. Sl st 5 more times along the rest of the row to close the sides of the tube. How tight you make these stitches will determine how much the arms curve – for straight arms, tug through a little yarn after each slip stitch.
To make the fingers: *Ch 3, skip the 1st chain from hook, single crochet once into each of the two remaining chains, sl st into the end of the arm (exactly where isn’t important)* three times. Cut the yarn leaving a 12” tail, and thread the yarn tail up through the arm and out of the shoulder for sewing to the body later. Weave in the tail from the beginning of the foundation chain.

The second arm

Only if the first arm you made is curved, make the second arm like this (otherwise repeat the steps above for a second straight arm):

Foundation chain: Using your green yarn, make a slip knot with a 24” yarn tail, then using the yarn on the skein-side of the knot, ch 8.
1st row: Sk 2, dc 6.
2nd row: Fold the row of stitches into a tube lengthways. Starting with the dc nearest the hook, insert the hook through the unused loop of the foundation chain at the bottom of the stitch and through the top loops of the dc. Yarn over and pull through all three loops to make a slip stitch. Sl st 5 more times along the rest of the row, aiming for the same tightness as before, so achieve a matching curve. Cut the yarn, leaving a short tail for weaving in later.
To make the fingers: Using the yarn 24” yarn tail from step 1, *ch 3, skip the 1st chain from hook, single crochet once into each of the two remaining chains, sl st into the end of the arm (exactly where isn’t important)* three times. Thread the yarn tail up through the arm and out of the shoulder for sewing to the body later. Weave in the tail from the end of step 3.

Join the arms to the body using the yarn tails, a couple of rounds up the body from the top of the belly, and about in line with the outside edge of the eyes.

Embroider the mouth

Finally, thread about 18″ of black yarn onto a darning needle – I’ve used 36″ and doubled it up for extra impact. Push the needle through between two stiches on the back of the body, through to the front. Pull the yarn through until there’s tail about 3″ sticking out from the back of the body. Embroider the mouth using back stitch and the grid in the body stiches as a guide. At the end of the the final stitch, push the needle out through the same place as the yarn tail on the back of the body. Tie the two tails together, trim the excess yarn, and poke the knot inside the body to hide it.

Done!

Your amphibian amigurumi is complete! I hope you enjoyed making it and you’re completely charmed by the results. For some more unusual animal projects, check out Lucy’s gecko, manatee and puffer fish patterns!

The post Squishy Crochet Frog Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

How cute is this squishy crochet puppy? He’s a fun, beginner-friendly alternative to making a puppy pattern with separate head, body and leg parts. But he’s just as appealing and cuddly! I’ve made him with bulky chenille yarn to really make him as squashy and irresistible as possible. But the pattern is just as effective in lighter weight and/or smoother yarns, and I’ve got tips for making him in different sizes, as well as lots of photos of the techniques involved.

You’ll need

The materials I used to make this puppy are:

• Super bulky chenille yarn in white and brown. I used Cygnet Jellybaby yarn in the shades white and moose.
• A small quantity of black yarn for the nose and mouth.
• Size J (6mm) crochet hook.
• Stitch markers (or scraps of yarn will do)
• ⅝” (16mm) safety eyes.
• Toy safe stuffing (approx 2oz, or 55g).

My plushy is about 7” tall. If you want to use a lighter weight yarn, you’ll need to choose a smaller crochet hook to match, and your puppy will turn out smaller. I recommend using a hook one size smaller than the yarn wrapper recommends, to create a dense fabric that doesn’t allow the stuffing to peep through.

You’ll also need to use smaller safety eyes with some yarns, to keep the proportions right:

• With dk, aran and worsted yarns, use 12mm eyes. You plushy will turn out 4-5” tall.
• For bulky yarns, 16mm eyes will still work. Your plushy will turn out about 6″ tall.

Squishy crochet puppy pattern

This pattern is written in standard U.S. crochet terms. You’ll only need to know a small number of very basic stitches:

Ch chain
Sl st slip stitch
Sc single crochet
Inc increase (make 2 sc in the same space)
Dec decrease

Round 1

To start, grab your brown yarn and either make a magic circle, or chain 4 and slip stitch into the furthest stitch from the hook to make a loop. If you’re using a fluffy yarn like me, I find a 4-chain loop is easier to tighten later without snapping the yarn.

1st round: Ch 1, and sc 8 into your magic circle or 4-ch loop (8 sts).

Round 2

2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts).

Rounds 3 – 14

Rounds 3 – 15 are worked in a combination of brown and white yarn. You can approach this in a couple of different ways:

1. Cut the yarn every time you change color, then tie the yarn ends together later.
2. Carry the yarn you’re not using behind the yarn you are using. If you choose this option, you’ll need to catch the floating strand of the yarn you’re not using every 4 or 5 stitches. If that’s a technique you haven’t used before, there’s a description of it (with photos) in this article.

I find it’s pretty easy to get away with the first option when I’m using chenille yarns. Their texture holds the stitches in place, so you don’t have to worry about areas of loose tension where the yarn breaks are. But for smooth yarns I’d use the second option.

To change color, insert your hook into the next stitch and draw through a loop of the color you’ve been using (in this case brown – see the left hand photo below). Then loop your new yarn over the hook from back to front, and draw it through both loops on your hook (right hand photo below).

3rd round: With the brown yarn *sc, inc* twice, color change to white yarn, *sc, inc* three times, color change to brown yarn, *sc, inc* three times. (24 sts)

4th round: 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, color change to white yarn, inc, *2 sc, inc* three times, color change to brown yarn, *2 sc, inc* three times. (32 sts)

5th round: 3 sc, inc, sc, color change to white yarn, 2 sc, inc, *3 sc, inc* 3 times, sc, color change to brown yarn, 2 sc, inc, *3 sc, inc* twice. (40 sts)

That’s the last of the increasing rows, so I’m going to layout the pattern for rounds 6 – 15 a little differently, to make it easier for you to keep track of the color changes.

Rounds 6 – 15

Rather than set out this next section in rounds, I’m just going to tell you how many stitches to make before changing color again. Since we’re going round and round in spirals, the point where one round finishes and the next begins isn’t all that important anyway.

Make all the stitches using single crochet. The gaps in the list don’t mean anything – they’re just to break it up and help you keep track of progress!

• 6 brown
• 21 white
• 18 brown
• 22 white
• 19 brown

• 22 white
• 18 brown
• 22 white
• 18 brown
• 23 white

• 18 brown
• 23 white
• 16 brown
• 24 white
• 16 brown

• 25 white
• 14 brown
• 27 white
• 11 brown
• 37 white

You’ve just finished round 15, and your puppy’s brown patch is finished. We’re going back to counting rounds now, so pop a stitch marker or scrap of yarn through the stitch you’ve just made to mark where the rounds end.

Rounds 16 – 23

Rounds 16 – 23: Sc 40 (40 sts)

At the end of round 23 is a good time to add the eyes. Spread the body out on a flat work surface, and position the safety eyes. I placed mine between rows 10 and 11, and 8 stitches apart – but you can experiment with moving them around to change your puppy’s expression!

Press the backs onto the safety eyes, then spread the body out flat again, making sure the eyes are central. The next step is to make single crochets until you reach the spot marked by the blue arrow in the photo above. For me it’s 18 sc, but for you it might be slightly more or less. Ending up in that corner is more important than how many stitches it takes to get there!

Put a stitch marker into your last stitch – this is the new beginning and end point for the final few rounds. Now you’re ready to close the body.

Closing the body

The base of your plushy is going to be elliptical, and we’re going to achieve that by bunching the decreases up at the sides. I recommend using invisible decreases for amigurumi projects, because they’re just that – practically invisible on the right side of your work. If you haven’t tried the invisible decrease before, here’s how it’s done:

• Insert your hook through the front loop only of the next two stitches (fig. 1).
• Yarn over and draw through a loop (two loops remaining on the hook).
• Yarn over and draw through both loops (fig. 2).

Let’s put that to use, and make rounds 24 and 25:

24th round: 3 dec, sc 8, 6 dec, 8 sc, 3 dec (28 sts)
25th round: 3 dec, sc 2, 6 dec, 2 sc, 3 dec (16 sts)

Put a stitch marker through the loop on your hook to hold it, then measure a 24” tail and cut your yarn. Stuff your plushy firmly with toy-safe stuffing, keeping back a little (about half a cup) for the tail later. Then pick up the loop from the stitch marker and make one more round:

26th round: 8 dec, sl st (8 sts)

Poke in a little more stuffing if it will fit, then use the remaining yarn tail to sew the opening shut. The body is done!

Ears

Your puppy’s soft and floppy over-sized ears are going to be his cutest feature. I’ve made both in brown, but one brown and one white or black would be a sweet way of personalizing your project.

• Start with a magic circle or a 4-chain loop.
• 1st round: Ch, 8 sc (8 sts)
• 2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)
• 3rd round: *Sc, inc* 8 times (24 sts)
• Rounds 4 – 7: Sc all the way round (24 sts)
• 8th round: *4 sc, dec* 4 times (20 sts)
• Rounds 9 & 10: Sc all the way round (20 sts)
• 11th round: *3 sc, dec* 4 times (16 sts)
• 12th round: Sc 16, sl st.

Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing later.

Tail

Start the tail with white yarn, and a magic circle or 4-chain loop.

• 1st round: Ch, 8 sc (8 sts)
• 2nd round: *3 sc, inc* twice (10 sts)
• 3rd round: *4 sc, inc* twice (12 sts)

Change color to brown.

• Rounds 4 – 9: Sc all the way round (12 sts)
• 10th round: *4 sc, dec* twice, sl st (10 sts)

Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing later. Lightly stuff the tail up to about round 7.

Nose

The last crochet detail for your puppy is their sweet schnozz. Using your black yarn:

1. Ch 3, sl st into the furthest st from the hook to make a loop.
2. Ch 1, 3 sc into the 3-ch loop.
3. Ch 1, turn your work, 3 sc (into the tops of the single crochets from step 2).
4. Sl st into the ch 1 at the beginning of step 2.

Cut the yarn leaving, you’ve guessed it, a long tail for sewing.

Assembling your puppy

There’s just a few easy steps between you and a finished cuddly puppy now!

Sew the ears onto the sides of the head, level with round 4. They hang more naturally if you just pick up the front loops around the top of the ear rather than the front and back loops.

Next hold your puppy upright on a flat surface to get the position of the tail right. Before you join it to the body, you’ve got a choice to make:

• You can leave the tail to wag freely, in which case you want the color change in the tail facing outwards, so it’s on the underside of the tail when the tail drops down.
• Or you can tie the tail flush to the body like me, in which case you want the color change facing inwards towards the body.

Now sew the base of the tail to the body. If you’re tying the tail flush to the body, thread a 6” piece of yarn onto a darning needle and pass it behind a stitch facing the body on round 5 of the tail. Find the stitch it touches on the body and thread the yarn behind that one too. Tie the ends in a knot, and tuck them inside the body.

Last but not least, sew the nose in place. Then thread 12” of black yarn onto a needle, and run it behind a stitch at the base of the nose (it could be one of the stitches holding the nose in place, or one of the stitches on the body – see left hand photo below). Thread the other end of the black yarn through the eye of the needle too, so you’re working with two strands at once (center photo). Embroider a little mouth, using the stitch-grid in the body as a guide (right hand photo). I can never resist making my amigurumi toys look a little grumpy, but you could give your puppy a smile or a neutral expression.

Squishy Puppy Complete

My daughter has called this one Sandwich! I hope you enjoy making this project as much as I enjoyed developing it, and that whoever receives your plushy loves it as much as my daughter loves Sandwich. If it’s given you the confidence to try a more life-like amigurumi pattern next, you’ll love Lucy’s Poodle and Labrador patterns. Happy crocheting!

The post Squishy Crochet Puppy Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

How do you like my 3D snowflake granny square? Pretty festive, huh? I think it would look great mixed up with simpler grannies in candy cane colors, for a jolly sofa throw or blanket. Rather than making the snowflake and a solid granny square separately, then sewing them together (which is one option), the snowflake is fully integrated into the square. Which means no sewing, and no risk of the stitches coming loose in future.

The first round of the granny square is the center of the snowflake, and then from round 2 the pattern diverges into snowflake, and background. The rest of the snowflake isn’t anchored to the background on my squares – I think leaving the points floating feels more free-falling and snowflake-y. But I have included an instruction for anchoring the points in place as you go, if it suits you better.

3D snowflake granny square pattern

This pattern is written in standard U.S. crochet terms. Using DK yarn and a size G (4mm) hook it produces a square approximately 5″ (13cm) along each side. The stitches and their abbreviations you’ll need to know are:

Ch chain
Sc single crochet
Fpsc front post single crochet*
Dc Double crochet
Sl st slip stitch

* Exactly like the better known front post double crochet, but with a single crochet. There are more detailed instructions in the pattern, if you’re unfamiliar with it.

Round 1

Using white yarn:

1. Magic circle (mc).
2. Ch 3, dc 11 into the mc, sl st into the top of the ch 3 to join.

Background round 2

Continuing with the white yarn:

1. Fpsc around the ch 3 from the start of round 1: insert hook from back to front to the left of the chain, and from front to back on the right on the chain, yarn over and draw through so you have 2 loops on the hook, yarn over again and draw through both loops.
2. Ch 1.
3. *Fpsc around the next dc, ch 1* eleven times.
4. Sl st into the first fpsc.

Cut the yarn and weave in the ends. Here’s round 2 looks from the from the front (on the left), and back (on the right). Notice how the top loops of round 1 have been pushed forward on the front.

Background round 3

Join your red yarn into one of the ch 1 spaces from round 2.

1. (Ch 5, dc 1) into the same ch space.
2. Dc 2 into the next ch space.
3. Dc 2 into the next ch space.
4. (Dc, ch 2, dc) into the next ch space.
5. Repeat steps 2 – 4 twice more.
6. Dc 2 into the next ch space.
7. Dc 2 into the next ch space.
8. Into the next ch space (which is where you started), and sl st into the 3rd st of the ch 5 to join.

Here’s how that looks from the front (left) and back (right):

Background rounds 4 – 6

1. (Sl st, ch 5, dc 2) into the first corner space.
2. Dc into all of the side spaces.
3. (Dc 2, ch 2, dc 2) into the other corner spaces.
4. And when you get back to the first corner space, dc and sl st into the 3rd st of the ch 5 to join.

After the 6th round I tied off my yarn and wove in the ends. But if you’d like a bigger square, simply add more rounds!

Snowflake round 2

Now when you look at the front of your square, the top loops of round 1 are pushed forwards.

Join your white yarn through the top loops of any stitch from round 1.

1. Ch 5, *dc, ch2* 11 times.
2. Sl st into 3rd st of the ch 5 to join.

Snowflake round 3

It looks like there’s still a long way to go, but in fact this is your final round! It’s worked into the chain spaces from the previous round, using an alternating pattern of single- and triple-picot stitch techniques.

1. Into the next chain space (sc, dc, ch 6, sl st into the 1st ch, ch 5*, sl st into the same space as the previous sl st, ch 5, sl st into the same space as the previous sl sts, dc, sc).
2. Into the following chain space, (sc, ch 3, sl st into the 1st ch, sc).
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 six times.
4. Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.

* Optional modification: Make the 3rd chain a slip stitch into the background of your square, to anchor the point in place. I prefer to keep the outline of my snowflake free, and the yarn I’m using is sturdy enough that the points don’t flop about, but anchoring the points is a good idea if your square is likely to be going through the laundry frequently. Try to catch a just single strand from the post of one of the double crochets.

Granny square complete!

This design really benefits from being blocked, and having the picot points on the snowflake gently stretched out to give them definition. To go the whole nine yards, I pin mine out on the ironing board, using some dress maker’s pattern paper to get the outside edges square, and lots of pins to draw out the snowflake shape.

Then I lightly steam it with the iron. Since my yarn is a synthetic blend (90% acrylic, 10% merino wool), it holds its shape really well after that.

I hope you have as much fun making your grannies as I did designing them – happy crocheting!

The post 3D Snowflake Granny Square Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

How cute is this 3D flower granny square? The simple six-petal outline of the flower is easy to make, and really effective. I love how it channels nostalgic florals, 1960’s flower power and the Irish fashion designer Orla Kiely in one big cheerful color-pop. It’s a perfect way of adding visual depth and tactile detail to granny squares, without gobbling up yarn (I’m looking at you bobble stitch).

How big is it?

My granny squares have 6 rounds, but round 3 (the petals) completely overlaps rounds 4 and 5. Made with dk yarn and a size F (4mm) hook, they measure 4” across (give or take a little, depending on the exact yarn you choose, and your tension). They’re just the right size and proportions for a granny square scarf or sweater. For a bigger project like a blanket, you could easily add a 7th (and 8th) round following the same pattern as round 6. It would add an extra inch to each side of your square, and also make the spaces between the flowers to scale with the size of your project.

3D flower granny square pattern

This pattern is written in standard US crochet terms. The stitches and their abbreviations you need to be familiar with are:

Ch chain
Dc double crochet
Bpdc back post double crochet
Dc-inc double crochet increase (make 2 dc in the same space)
Hdc half double crochet
Sk skip the next stitch from the previous round, and work into the one after
Sl st slip stitch

Rounds 1 & 2

Rounds 1 and 2 follow the basic formula for making a flat circle.

• To start: Using your flower color, either make a magic circle, or by make a chain of 4 stitches and join the first and last chains with a slip stitch.
• Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), dc 11, sl st to the top of the ch 3.
• Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), dc in to the same st, dc-inc 11, sl st into the top of the ch 3.

Round 3

It’s time to add some petals to your flower!

• *Sk 1, dc 6, sk 1, sl st 1* 6 times.

Round 4

Round 4 is made into the back of round 2:

• Sl st around the ch 3 at start of round 2: insert your hook from back to front on the right of the chain and front to back on the left of the chain, yarn over and complete your sl st.
• Ch 3.
• Moving clockwise, bpdc around next st from round 2, and ch 1.
• *Bpdc around the next st from round 2, bpdc around the next st from round 2 again, and ch1* 11 times
• Sl st into the top of the ch 3 from step 2.

Cut the yarn and weave in the ends. Here’s how we’re looking from the front (right) and back (left) now:

Round 5

The next round is worked into the ch 1 spaces from round 4.

• Join your background color yarn into one of the ch 1 spaces from round 4. (Ch 5, dc 3) into the same space.
• Hdc 3 into the next ch 1 space.
• Hdc 3 into the next ch 1 space.
• (Dc 3, ch 2, dc 3) into the next ch 1 space – this makes a corner.
• Repeat steps 2 – 4 twice more.
• Repeat steps 2 & 3.
• The next ch 1 space should be the same one you started in – dc 2 into it, and join the round with a sl st in the 3rd st of the ch 5.

Round 6 onwards

From now on, you granny square follows the same pattern as a regular solid granny square:

• Ch 5 and dc 2 into the corner space.
• Dc along the side of the square.
• (Dc 2, ch 2, dc 2) into the next corner space.
• Repeat steps 2 and 3 twice more.
• Dc along the final side.
• Dc into the corner space you started in, and sl st into the 3rd st of the ch 5 to join.

You can finish there, or add more rounds if you wish.

Done!

Cut the yarn, weave in the ends, and block your finished square. My top tip is to block them face down, to relax and flatten out the petals a bit (but don’t squash them!)

The post 3D Flower Granny Square appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

This treble cluster v-stitch granny square is quick and cosy to make up. In fact, using DK yarn it only takes 4 rounds to make a square 6″ (15cm) across. Since it uses pairs of treble crochet stitches in mini clusters, it’s also denser and warmer than using solo treble crochets. Overall, I’d say the weight of this square is pretty much equivalent to a traditional granny square – it’s a bit holey, but it’s not lacy. And I just love that little 8-point star in the middle! So it’s ideal for making throws, blankets, granny-square cardigans and scarves.

Mini treble cluster stitches

This square is based on mini clusters of treble crochet stitches. Usually cluster stitches consist of 3 to 5 stitches joined at the top and bottom, but I’m using just 2 trebles per cluster. I’m not sure if that has a proper crochet name, which is why I’ve settled on ‘mini cluster’! Here’s how I made them:

1. Yarn over the hook twice.
2. Insert hook into the next space indicated by the pattern, and draw through a loop of yarn.
3. Yarn over the hook and draw through two loops, twice. Two loops remaining on hook – left photo below.
4. Yarn over the hook twice.
5. Insert hook into the same space again, and draw through a loop of yarn.
6. Yarn over the hook and draw through two loops, twice. Three loops remaining on hook – center photo below.
7. Yarn over and drawn through all three loops – right hand photo below.

Besides these chunky Vs, in this pattern we’ll also be using regular treble crochet stitches, chain stitches, and slip stitches.

Treble cluster v-stitch granny square

Let’s dive into the pattern!

Round 1

Start you granny square using whatever method you prefer: either a magic circle, or 4 chain stitches joined in a loop with a slip stitch.

1. Ch 6 (represents 1 tr and 2 ch sts)
2. *TrCL, ch 2* seven times
3. Join with a slip stitch into the 4th st of the ch 6 at the start of the round.

Round 2

The main thing to remember in this round is don’t make any chain stitches when you’re moving from one chain space to the next.

1. Sl st into the chain space created by the ch 6 at the start of round 1
2. Ch 5 (represents 1 tr which will become half of a trCL, and 1 ch st which will end up in the center of a V)
3. In the same chain space (trCL, ch3, trCL, ch 1, trCL)
4. In the next chain space (trCl, ch 1, trCL)
5. In the next chain space (trCl, ch 1, trCL, ch3, trCL, ch 1, trCL)
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 twice more
7. (TrCL, ch 1, trCL) into the next chain space
8. Tr into the first chain space, and join with a slip stitch to the 4th st of the ch 5 from step 2.

Everywhere you’ve made a ch 3 will be a corner space in the next round.

Round 3

We started round 2 in a corner, but from now on the rounds begin part way down the side of your square.

1. Sl st into the chain space
2. Ch 5, (represents 1 tr which will become half of a trCL, and 1 ch st which will end up in the center of a V)
3. In the same chain space (trCL, ch1, trCL)
4. Corner space: (trCl, ch 1, trCL, ch3, trCL, ch 1, trCL)
5. In the next 3 chain spaces (trCL, ch1, trCL)
6. Repeat steps 3 and 4 twice more
7. Corner space: (trCl, ch 1, trCL, ch3, trCL, ch 1, trCL)
8. In the next 2 chain spaces (trCL, ch1, trCL)
9. Tr into the chain space where you started, and join with a slip stitch to the 4th st of the ch 5 from step 2.

Round 4 and onwards

I’m sure you can see the pattern now:

• Start with a slip stitch, chain 5, and one mini cluster into the first chain space.
• (TrCl, ch 1, trCL) into all the chain spaces along the sides.
• (TrCl, ch 1, trCL, ch3, trCL, ch 1, trCL) into each corner space.
• Finish with a treble crochet in the same chain space you started in, and slip stitch into the 4th stitch of the ch 5 to join.

I’ve made one more round then tied off and woven in the yarn ends, to produce a 6″ square in DK yarn:

And that’s all there is to it! I hope you’ll give this pattern a go, and enjoy working with it as much as I have!

The post Treble Cluster V-Stitch Granny Square appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

How cute is this crochet granny square slipper pattern?! They’re constructed from just six squares each, so they’re perfect for when you fancy making a granny square project, but you haven’t got the time or the will to embark on something big like a blanket. They’ve got a cosy homespun feel which really does feel like a warm hug for your toes, so they’re a fantastic gift too – for someone you love or just for you

You can also change up the style by using a different more textured granny square for the top of the foot section, like the snowflake or 3D flower designs.

Getting the right size

Since these slippers have a soft sole, they’re a bit like socks when it comes to sizing. In other words, one size will fit several sizes of feet. If you follow this pattern exactly, the slippers will fit roughly ladies’ shoes size 6 – 9 (UK 4 – 7, EU 37 – 40). To make slippers outside of that size range, you’ll need to adapt the size of your granny squares. Don’t let that put you off though, it’s pretty straight forward to do, and I’m going to walk you through it step-by-step.

Basically, the diagonal size of your granny squares needs to be half the circumference of your foot at the widest point. Here’s a worked example of how to measure you feet and calculate the right granny square size for a perfect pair of custom made-to-measure slippers:

• Measure the circumference around the ball of your foot, right above the toes. My feet measure 9” (23cm) around this point.
• Divide that number in half. Which gives me 4½” (11.5cm). This is how big your granny squares need to be from corner to corner.

• It’s not all that intuitive to think about granny squares in terms of their diagonal size, so here’s a handy dandy online calculator for finding out how long the sides will need to be. From it I found out that the sides of my granny squares need to be approximately 3¼” (8.5cm).

My granny square pattern

Here’s the pattern I came up with to make granny squares the right size for my slippers. You can make small adjustments to the size of this pattern by making the 4th round in single crochet (for a smaller square) or double crochet (for a larger square). Or you can come up with your own design for a granny square the right size, and meet me again at the assembly stage!

Remember, you’ll need 12 squares in total – 6 per slipper. I used aran weight yarns in pink, off-white, gray marl, and brown. Rather than using the size H-8 (5mm) hook suggested by the wrapper, I opted for a size G-6 (4.5mm) hook. Your slippers will hold their shape better if the tension is sturdy – since I tend to crochet on the loose side I’ve sized down to

Round 1

Start however you like to start your granny squares – with a magic circle, or with four chain stitches joined in a loop with a slip stitch.

• Ch 3, dc 7, sl st into top of ch 3 to join.

Cut your yarn and weave in the ends.

Round 2

Join your next yarn color. This round consists of 8 cluster stitches of four double crochets, and the first one is worked a little bit differently to the rest.

For the first stitch:

1. Ch 3 – this creates the height you need to complete the round, and also counts as the first double crochet in the cluster.
2. Yarn over hook.
3. Insert hook into the same space you made the slip stitch join into.
4. Yarn over and pull through a loop (3 loops on hook).
5. Yarn over and draw through two loops (2 loops on hook).
6. Repeat steps 2 – 5 twice more (4 loops on hook – below left).
7. Yarn over and draw through all four loops (below center).
8. Ch 2 (below right).

For the rest of the stitches:

1. Yarn over hook.
2. Insert hook into the next space from round 1.
3. Yarn over and pull through a loop (3 loops on hook).
4. Yarn over and draw through two loops (2 loops on hook).
5. Repeat steps 1 – 4 three times (5 loops on hook – below left).
6. Yarn over and draw through all five loops (below center).
7. Chain 2 (below right).

After the last cluster stitch, chain 2 and join to the top of the first cluster stitch with a slip stitch. NOTE: The top of the stitch is the first chain you made to close the cluster, not the top of the ch 3. Cut the yarn, and weave in the ends.

* Only if you’re using half-double crochet for this round. If you’re using single or double crochet to modify the size of your square, work into every stitch of each side.

Cut your yarn, weave in the ends, and block your square. Make 11 more squares.

Crochet granny square slipper pattern: assembling stage

Squares made, it’s time to think about how you’re going to join them together. Here’s an illustration of how the squares are going to be pieced together:

I’ve labeled the corresponding sides, so 1a joins to 1a, and so on. Joins 1a and 1b can be made one after the other with without cutting the yarn in between. Joins 2a – 2d can also be made in one go, and likewise joins 3a – 3d.

Let’s start with the first join, along seams 1a and 1b.

I joined my granny squares mine using single crochet stitches – hold the squares right sides together, and insert the hook through the front and back loops of both squares. It’s a chunky join, which I love because it makes an aesthetic nod to moccasins. But I can feel the seams under my feet a bit, an if the thought of that puts you off, you could join your squares with a flat mattress stitch or whip stitch instead.

Adding the back of the heel

The next step is adding the back of the heel. Here’s a map for joining that square:

• When you get to corner A, place two stitches in the corner space of the heel square – one for each of the other squares.
• When you get to corner B, use three stitches to join the corner spaces, like this:

• The final edge between corner B and the arrow head joins to the edge marked by the star – make sure the wrong sides of your squares are facing each other!
• Treat corner B the same as corner A – make two stitches in the corner space of the heel square, one for each of the other squares.

Adding the last square

The sixth square sits on top of the foot.

If you fold in the side squares now, you can see now how that top square is going to join along all four edges.

• Start at the top corner that’s going to sit above the arch of the foot, and work along the first edge (I prefer to move clockwise, but it’s not important).
• In the next corner space make two stitches – one into the square that folds around the the side of the foot, and one into the square at the front of the sole.
• In the corner which forms the toe point, make three stitches into the corner space.
• And in the last corner space make two stitches – one into the square at the front of the sole and one into the square that folds around the the side of the foot.

When you get back to the corner you started in, don’t cut the yarn – you can dive straight into making the edging around the opening with it.

Adding a picot edging

This slipper is really starting to come together! Let’s add a picot edging around the opening, to give that edge a more polished look and tie it in with the seams. The edge is made in two rows, in a counter-clockwise direction. The direction is important to ensure to the little picot bobbles pop outwards, not inwards!

• The first row is straight forward single crochet all the way round the edge.
• The second row is a simple picot border based on a two-stitch repeat: sl st, dc. The short slip stitches push the tall double crochets outwards, making an attractive bobble edge.

Finish row two on a slip stitch, cut the yarn, and weave in all the ends from joining your squares.

Pompoms

The finishing touch on my slippers are some cute little pompoms. Not only do they look the part, they’re perfect for hiding the seam joins on the front of your slipper. Also if you’ve never made little pompoms on a fork before, prepare to discover a new crafting addiction!

• Cut a 4” piece of yarn and hold it between the second and third tines of a fork (top left above).
• Wrap yarn from the ball 20 – 30 times around all four tines.
• Cut the yarn, and use the 4” piece to make an overhand knot around the center of your pom pom (top right above).
• Poke the ends through to the other side of the fork, and tie two or three more knots to fully secure the center of the pompom (bottom left above).
• Slip the pompom off the fork and carefully cut all the loops so your pompom opens out. Trim it into shape, and repeat the steps to make a second.
• Make a chain of 12 stitches, and ties your pompoms to the ends (bottom right above).

Finally, use a short length of yarn to tie your pompoms to the front of your slipper.

Now make another one!

Repeat the whole process to make a second slipper, and then put them on and wear them with pride! Or in my case, notice them sneaking out of the room on the feet of my daughter. Luckily this quick and fun pattern is easy to make again and again! I hope you enjoy making it too.

The post Crochet Granny Square Slipper Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Welcome to my block stitch granny square pattern! Block stitch is one of my all-time favorite crochet stitches, ever since I used it to make a cot blanket for a dear friend’s first baby. For me it has just the right balance of pattern and simplicity. It’s pleasantly repetitive and meditative to work on, but not monotonous. And it’s great for making granny square projects that put a real dent in an overflowing yarn collection. You can use the colors you have a lot of for the background, colors you only have scraps of for the flecks, and colors you have a middling amount of for the border. That’s some pretty efficient stash busting!

It also looks amazing when combined with some other more unusual stitches too like the treble cluster V or third loop only granny!

Getting started

I’ve developed this pattern using DK yarn. It ought to work with any weight of yarn and an appropriately-size hook, but the relative height and width of your square might end up being a little bit different. Make up one square first, and use it to judge whether you need to add or remove stitches from your foundation row, or rows of stitches from the top of your square. Using DK yarn and a 4mm hook, my squares measure approximately 6” x 6” after blocking, but yours might be a little smaller or larger depending on the exact yarn you use, and your tension (I tend to crochet a little on the loose side).

Before I pick up my hook I also like to take some 1” snippets of the yarns I’m using, and check I’m happy with the order they’re going to go in. But you can skip this step if it doesn’t appeal to you!

Block Stitch Granny Square Pattern

This pattern uses standard American crochet terms. The only stitches you’ll need to know are:

Ch chain
Sc single crochet
Dc double crochet
Sl st slip stitch

Starting with your background color, make a foundation chain with a multiple of 3 chain stitches, plus 4. Using my foundation chain of 25 stitches as an example, here’s what they represent:

• 1 space for a single dc at the edge of your square (which will eventually be covered by the border)
• 7 multiples of 3 in the middle
• and 3 turning chains, which also count as a single dc at the opposite side of the square (and will also be covered by the border).

I’ve written it as a multiple of 3 plus 4, and not a multiple of 3 plus 1, to help you picture how adding more multiples of three will look. I hope it made sense!

1st Row

This pattern is dead simple to make, but a little tricky to explain in writing. So bear with me, and don’t worry, I’ve got lots of photos to help make everything clear!

Starting in the 4th chain from the hook, dc into every stitch of your foundation chain. After the final stitch, free your hook and put a stitch marker into the working loop – or just pull it through a bit further so it won’t unravel easily, like I’ve done in the photos coming up.

2nd row

It’s time to add the first row of colourful flecks.

• Choose which yarn you’re going to use, make a slip knot in it about 3” in from the end, and pop the loop onto your hook.
• Insert your hook into the space between the ch 3 and the first dc at the far right of row 1. Make a single crochet by drawing a loop of yarn through that space, then putting the yarn over the hook again and drawing it through both loops:

• Ch 2, then count 3 dc from the first row, and make another sc between the 3rd and 4th dc.
• *Ch 2, dc into the space between the next 3rd and 4th stitch from row 1* all the way along.

You’re not making the single crochets into the top of the stitches from row 1 here, rather the spaces in between them. Where you can see my finger peeping through in this photo!

When you get to the end of the row your last sc should be 1 dc away from the end of row 1. Put the working loop from the end of row 1 back on your hook (below left) and pull it through the working loop at the end of row 2 (below right).

Now you can cut the yarn you’ve used for row 2, leaving a 3” tail for weaving in later.

3rd row

Working with your background color again, ch 3 (represents 1 dc) and turn your work.

Make 3 dc into each of the ch 2 spaces from row 2 (indicated by the purple arrows below). At the end of the row, make 1 dc into the 3rd stitch of the turning chain from row 1 (indicated by the red arrow below).

Put a stitch marker in the last stitch, or pull through a generous loop, like at the end of row 1.

4th row onwards

Now it’s simply a case of repeating rows 2 and 3, until your square is approximately as tall as it is wide. Whenever granny squares are made in rows rather than rounds, it’s possible that the height and width won’t exactly match, so just get as close as you can. The only important thing is to finish on a background color row.

In total, my square has 8 background color (uneven-numbered) rows, and 7 fleck (even-numbered) rows.

At the end of your last row you’ll need to pause and weave in all those ends:

At this point you can either:

1. Cut the background color yarn and weave it in too.
2. OR, use the background color to make the border as well. This has the advantage of reducing the number of ends which ultimately need weaving in by two (don’t knock it – they add up!) And it’s also a good aesthetic choice if you don’t want your square to have the appearance of a border.

I’m going with option 1, so here’s my square right before I started adding a contrasting border.

Adding a border

I think block stitch granny squares work best with a border.

• It gives a bit more substance to the left and right edges of the square
• It makes the edges easier to join to each other.
• It’s a fun way to add another pop of color, and use up some more yarn from your stash.
• And a wisely chosen border color can really help unify some mis-matched fleck colors inside the square.

Here’s how to add one. If you’re using the same yarn you used for the background, just skip step 1:

1. Join your border color yarn into the top right hand corner space of your square.
2. Ch 5 (represents 1 dc and a 2 ch corner space), and dc 2 into the same corner space.
3. Dc into the top of each stitch along the top edge of your square.
4. At the next corner space (dc 2, ch 2, dc 2).
5. Working down the left hand edge of your square, dc 3 into the side of each background-colored row. With each alternate row you’ll either be making your stitches round the post of another dc, or around a turning chain.
6. At the next corner space (dc 2, ch 2, dc 2).
7. Dc into the other side of the foundation chain along the bottom edge of your square.
8. At the next corner space (dc 2, ch 2, dc 2).
9. Working up the right hand edge of your square, dc 3 into the side of each background-colored row.
10. When you get back to the first corner, dc into the corner space and sl st into the 4th st of the ch 5 to join. Cut the yarn and weave in the end.

Block your squares and show them off!

Your block stitch granny square is finished and ready for blocking. One square by itself can be a pretty coaster, placemat, or face cloth. Lots together work well for scatter pillow covers, and medium weight blankets.

The post Block Stitch Granny Square appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

A third loop only granny square is an easy but eye catching alternative to a regular solid granny square. It has an interesting three-dimensional texture, but without being bulky or heavy. So you can turn lots of them into a medium-weight blanket or throw for all seasons. Like any traditional granny square project, these squares are perfect for using up yarn scraps. But I think they look especially effective in just two colors, like this.

Choosing the yarn and hook

Third loop only granny squares are exceptionally versatile, and look good in almost any yarn. They don’t gobble up yarn like other grannies with interesting 3-dimensional textures, so you might even choose a more high-end or luxurious yarn, without fear of breaking the bank. That said, I’ve made these ones in Hayfield Soft Twist DK, a blend of 90% acrylic and 10% merino, twisted together using the S-on-S plying technique traditionally associated with merino yarns. It’s smooth, strong, and really budget friendly for big projects – I love it!

This pattern shouldn’t present any differences to your usual tension, so use whatever size hook you’d usually pair with the yarn you have picked out.

Getting started

Begin your granny square however you prefer. The options are:

• Magic circle (my preference)
• Making 4 chain stitches and joining them with a slip stitch to make a circle.
• Making 2 chain stitches and treating the first one (the one furthest from your hook) as the starting circle.

The rest of the pattern uses standard American crochet terms. There’s a guide to the basic stitches here if you need it.

Round 1

Into your circle:

• Ch 5 (represents 1 dc, and a two-chain corner space).
• *Dc 3, ch 2* 3 times
• Dc 2

Drop your yarn and pick up your next color. Using the new color:

• Slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the ch 5 from the start of the round.
• Slip stitch into the corner space.

Round 2

It’s time to introduce some third loop only crochet! The abbreviation to look out for is dc-3lo, which means make a double crochet stitch into the third loop only of the next stitch. Everything about the double crochet stitch itself is exactly the same as usual – it’s just the placement that changes. I’ve got a photo coming up to help with that if you haven’t tried third loop only crochet before.

• Ch 5, dc 1 into the corner space.
• Dc-3lo 3 into the stitches along the first edge. The back loop sits immediately below the back loop – insert your hook downwards into it as indicated by the arrows. In contrast to a regular double crochet, you’re only inserting the hook under one loop, not two.

• (Dc 1, ch 2, dc 1) into the next corner space.
• *Dc-3lo 3, (dc 1, ch 2, dc 1) into the corner space* twice more.
• Dc-3lo 2, then dc into the back loop of the second stitch of the ch 5 from the previous round.

• Drop your yarn and pick up with the next color.
• Sl st into the 3rd stitch of the ch 5 from the beginning of the round, and sl st again into the corner space.

Round 3

In round 3 the way we work the corners slightly changes, so take note of that. But this is round you’ll keep repeating from here on, so it’s all going to be super straightforward after this!

• Ch 5, dc 2 into the corner space.
• *Dc-3lo 5 into the stitches along the edge, (dc 2, ch 2, dc 2) into the corner space* 3 times.
• Dc-3lo 4, dc into the back loop of the second stitch of the ch 5 from the previous round, dc into the final chain space.
• Drop your yarn and pick up with the next color.
• Sl st into the 3rd stitch of the ch 5 from the beginning of the round, and sl st again into the corner space.

Round 4 onwards

Repeat as for round 3:

• Start with ch 5, dc 2 in the first corner space.
• Dc-3lo into all the edge stitches.
• (Dc 2, ch 2, dc 2) into the corner spaces.
• Finish with a dc into the back of the 2nd st of the ch 5 from the previous round, then a dc into the corner space.
• Change color, slip stitch into the 3rd st of the ch 5 from the start of the round, and sl st into the corner space.

At the end of your final round, don’t change color before the final step. Use the same color as the rest of the round, and only slip stitch once into the 3rd st of the ch 5 from the start of the round. Cut the yarn and pull the yarn tail right through the slip stitch, then get to work weaving in all those ends!

Finishing up

Third loop only granny squares really benefit from being blocked. I’m devoted to blocking my granny squares anyway, but if if you’re usually happy to skip it, well, don’t!

Check out the awesome texture – I think it really elevates these granny squares, without being any harder to make than a typical granny square. I hope you’ll enjoy making some of your own!

The post Third Loop Only Granny Square appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.