The wonderful thing about granny patterns is that they stretch infinitely in continuous repeating rounds. You can make them as big, as colorful, as simple or as complex as you like. Whether you stick to a single colored yarn, or change textures and stitches as you go, they are always a project that flows. And the granny pentagon is no different in that respect.

The thing that makes this crochet pentagon a bit different to a square, triangle or even hexagon, is attaching them together. These aren’t shapes that easily slot together as they are, but you can still use them either as a singular shape or with some improvising in the joining.

What You’ll Need

To make my granny pentagons that you’ll see pictured here, I used DK yarn and a 3.5mm crochet hook. You can however use any yarn you like to produce your pentagons, just make sure you adjust the hook size to match. Although I’d advise side stepping novelty or chenille yarn for this one, it’s just not worth the extra both in my opinion!

Stitch Guide

If you are familiar with the classic granny square, you’ll be pleased to hear there are no new stitches involved in this pattern. It’s just the counting that’s a little different.

slst – slip stitch
ch – chain
dc – double crochet

Round 1

Make a chain (ch) of four stitches, then slip stitch (slst) into the first loop to join as a circle.

Chain 3 (ch3) as your first double crochet (dc), now working into the circle make two double crochets (dc x 2), then ch2, then make three double crochets (dc x 3), chain 2 again, then make 3 more sets of three double crochets, chain 2 and slip stitch into the top of the starting chain 3.

Tie off and snip off a tail of yarn, and remember to work that tail into your next round if you can. Don’t worry if you can forget, you can always hide the tails with a yarn needle or hook at the end if necessary.

Round 2

Insert your hook into one of the corner spaces, and make a chain of 3 stitches (ch3) as your first double crochet.

Into the same corner, dc x 2, ch2, dc x 3

Ch1 to cross the side of your pentagon, then

*working into the next corner dc x 3, ch2, dc x 3, then ch1

Repeat from * three times working into each corner, then slst into the top of your starting chain to join.

Cut off your yarn tail and tie off.

Round 3

Start in a corner, ch3, dc x 2, ch2, dc x 3, ch1

Into the next edge space dc x 3, ch1

*Into the next corner dc x 3, ch2, dc x 3, ch1

Into the next edge space dc x 3, ch1

Repeat three times from *, then slst into the top of your starting chain to join.

Cut off your yarn tail and tie off.

Round 4

Start in a corner, ch3, dc x 2, ch2, dc x 3, ch1

Into the next edge space dc x 3, ch1, and into the following edge space do the same: dc x 3, ch1

*Into the next corner dc x 3, ch2, dc x 3, ch1

Into the next edge space dc x 3, ch1, and into the following edge space do the same: dc x 3, ch1

Repeat three times from *, then slst into the top of your starting chain to join.

Cut off your yarn tail and tie off.

Round 5 and beyond

You can now follow this pattern to make your granny pentagon as big as you would like, just increasing the number of sets of three double crochets along the edges according to how many gaps there are.

The post Free Pentagon Granny Square Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

There is something so incredibly delightful about a colorful granny square. I tend to use more calm and, some might say, drab colors with a lot of my two dimensional crochet projects, but sometimes you’ve just got to jump straight out of the box and fixate on something fabulous.

Whether it’s a few bold shades or a mixture of more punchy tones, these crochet squares are a great way to make a project that’s got a lot more than just a pop of color.

Block Stitch Square

The block stitch is one of the very first crochet blanket styles I attempted, many years ago. And it still holds a special place in my heart. One of my favorite things about this way to use color is that there are very few limits when it comes to a range of shades. You can use a repeated, ordered pattern throughout the square with the lines of colored yarns, or you can just randomly make use of every yarn scrap selection you own.

Ripple Stitch Squares

There are so many fun ways to make ripple stitches into crochet squares, and this article looks at four simple options. They are a fabulous way to put color into a project, particularly because the definition between rows is an unusual shape that gives even more impact when you color swap.

Diagonal Crochet Squares

This might be one of my favorite ways to play with color in granny squares, and it only requires two different yarn tones as well. The clear defined edge that runs diagonally down means that even when you are playing around with less bold yarns, the color change still really has an impact when you look at it. I highly recommend working up a few samples of two round granny squares when you are experimenting with colors for this, as when you create such a strong divide it can go either way whether it turns out gorgeously contrasting or a bit of a site for sore eyes!

Heart Granny Square

If you want a standout crochet square, then you cannot go wrong with this heart design. Not only does it have a really distinctive shape, but it really lends itself to the brightest color palettes.

I think it shows off the design best if you make the central heart in red, but it could be fun to experiment with other colors too and see how it turns out.

Star Granny Square

The star granny square is another more modern look, and it goes very well with the hearts too! I’ve recently made up a bunch of these stars in more muted shades, but I do think Sarah’s original colorful stars have something more going for them. I would love to see how these look in a rainbow theme as well, so if you fancy giving that a go make sure you tag me on Facebook or Instagram so I can take a look! Or maybe I should give that a try myself…

Circle Granny Square

The final design of this more modern trio, circular granny squares are nothing new to the world of crochet but in this wild set of shades it still brings something else to the table. I am absolutely going to make a giant blanket one day with these three designs as center stage, and interspersed with solid colored granny squares each in one of the bright color combinations used for the others. You can see I have a lot of colorful ideas going around my head at the moment!

Shell Stitch Granny Square

If you want something really unique from your colorful crochet squares, then I highly recommend giving shell stitches a go. The traditional, ever expanding granny square is the easiest way to make shell stitch grannies into a full afghan size, but you can also crochet them together by either joining at the points or making additional rounds using chains and then a more classic design to create an easier connection.

Sun Granny Square

One of my original favorite granny squares, the sun style is something that you can make as bold as you like. I personally would keep the sun pattern in a yellow, orange or red, but you don’t need to. And the edging can be blue for the sky, or you can go totally off script and create something really unusual by mixing up your tones completely.

Puff Stitch Granny Square

I have been in a proper puff stitch groove lately, from ripples to rows, there is so much variety you can get out of that extra texture a puff stitch brings, and genuinely they are so much fun when you use them in granny squares. And when you are looking to get colorful, you can make use of these puffed out parts to really show off just how bright and glorious your yarns are too.

3D Snowflake

Another way to really make your crochet colors pop is to make use of raised sections in your squares. This three dimensional snowflake is such a fun way to set two different shades of yarn off against it each. And if you want to make it stand out even more, you can color change with every round too!

3D Flower

Finally, in the same vein is this gorgeous 3D flower. Floral designs really lend themselves to experimentation with color, and although this would look most natural in more traditional shades, it could be really fun to go with some colors you’re less likely to find in the natural world for the raised flower section.

I can’t wait to hear what you come up with, so don’t forget to let me know in the comments section below!

The post The Most Colorful Crochet Squares appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

After the traditional granny square, the next most popular shape for this ever expanding design is the granny hexagon. With the granny triangle a close third!

Hexagonal granny squares are probably best known for making gorgeous crochet cardigans, but my favorite way to use them is to create blankets or scarves.

The six sided shape really adds something to these more classic designs, and it gives you a slightly different way to play around with color and patterns too.

What I Used

One of the brilliant things about granny squares of any design, is that you can make them in almost every type of yarn. I’d avoid novelty styles or chenille, but from acrylic to cotton or bamboo, pretty much any other fiber goes.

The hexagonal grannies pictured were made using Hobbii’s Happy Place yarn, and a 3.5mm crochet hook, but yours will look just as splendid in other weights of yarn. Just remember to choose a yarn that will work for the end goal of your project, for instance if it’s for a baby blanket make sure it’s washing machine safe.

Round 2

Insert your hook into one of the corner spaces, and make a chain of 3 stitches (ch3) as your first double crochet.

Into the same corner, dc x 2, ch2, dc x 3

Ch1 to cross the side of your hexagon, then

*working into the next corner dc x 3, ch2, dc x 3, then ch1

Repeat from * four times working into each corner, then slst into the top of your starting chain to join.

Cut off your yarn tail and tie off.

Round 3

Start in a corner, ch3, dc x 2, ch2, dc x 3, ch1

Into the next edge space dc x 3, ch1

*Into the next corner dc x 3, ch2, dc x 3, ch1

Into the next edge space dc x 3, ch1

Repeat four times from *, then slst into the top of your starting chain to join.

Cut off your yarn tail and tie off.

Round 4

Start in a corner, ch3, dc x 2, ch2, dc x 3, ch1

Into the next edge space dc x 3, ch1, and into the following edge space do the same: dc x 3, ch1

*Into the next corner dc x 3, ch2, dc x 3, ch1

Into the next edge space dc x 3, ch1, and into the following edge space do the same: dc x 3, ch1

Repeat four times from *, then slst into the top of your starting chain to join.

Cut off your yarn tail and tie off.

Round 5 and beyond

You can now follow this pattern to make your granny hexagon as big as you would like, just increasing the number of sets of three double crochets along the edges according to how many gaps there are.

To finish off your hexagon with a neat shape and flat sides, I recommend either steaming the squares with a hand steamer, popping them under the iron or blocking them. I do find that blocking hexagonal granny squares is more of a challenge than other shapes, as the blocking board’s pins don’t exactly align for six sides, so if you can use one of the other options then that’s ideal. Or use a blocking board alternative that doesn’t have a defined shape, like a pin board.

The post Beginner Friendly Granny Hexagon Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

The traditional granny square is, well, square. It’s got four evenly matched sides, which makes it ideal for producing the eternally growing classic crochet afghan. But what if I square just won’t cut it for your project? Enter, the triangle granny square.

This super simple adjustment to the classic shape gives you a huge amount more possibilities to play with when it comes to your finished project. I use triangle granny squares as shawls, but I also love making multiples up and joining them together to create a blanket with a more interesting pattern.

The post Easy Triangle Granny Square Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Puff Stitch Granny Square Pattern

Round 1

Chain 4, then slst to join in a loop

Ch3, PS, 1dc, ch2,

*1dc, PS, 1dc, ch2

Repeat two more times from * then slst into the top of ch3

Tie and cut off and change color if you wish

Round 2

Start in a corner space:

Ch3, PS, 1dc, ch2, 1dc, PS, 1dc, ch1

*1dc, PS, 1dc, ch2, 1dc, PS, 1dc, ch1

Repeat two more times from * then slst into the top of ch3

Tie and cut off and change color if you wish

Round 3

Start in a corner space:

Ch3, PS, 1dc, ch2, 1dc, PS, 1dc, ch1, 1dc, PS, 1dc, ch1

*1dc, PS, 1dc, ch2, 1dc, PS, 1dc, ch1, 1dc, PS, 1dc, ch1

Repeat from * two more times, then slst into the top of ch3

Tie and cut off and change color if you wish

Round 4 onwards

You can now proceed infinitely in the exact same pattern.

Corners will contain puff stitches sandwiched between double crochets, as will the edges.

I think this stitch looks the absolute best in a huge squishy blanket, but i’d love to hear your thoughts!

The post Puff Stitch Granny Square appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

The Stitches

The Steps

1. Make a chain of four stitches

2. Slip stitch into the first stitch

3. Chain 3 (as the first double crochet)

4. Make two further double crochets into the center of the chain loop

5. Chain two (this will form the first corner)

6. Make three double crochets into the chain loop

7. Chain two (this is your second corner)

8. Make three double crochets into the chain loop

9. Chain two (this is your third corner)

10. Make three double crochets into the chain loop

11. Chain two, then slip stitch into the third chain of your chain 3 (from instruction 3).

Cut off a long tail of yarn, and weave the yarn in and out of the tops of the next two stitches.

Begin in a new color or the same color as you prefer, working from the corner you left the loose end in.

Round Two

Cast on, being sure to leave the loose end tail through the stitch, as well as the corner chain.

12. Chain 3 (as the first double crochet), then make 2 double crochets next to it

13. Chain 2 (your first corner of this round)

14. Make three double crochets into the same corner gap

15. Chain 1

16. Into the next corner make three double crochets, then chain two, then make three further double crochets

17. Chain 1

18. Into the next corner make three double crochets, then chain two, then make three further double crochets

19. Chain 1

20. Into the next corner make three double crochets, then chain two, then make three further double crochets

21. Chain 1 then slip stitch into the top of your chain 3 from instruction 12.

Cut off a long tail of yarn, and weave the yarn in and out of the tops of the next two stitches.

Round Three

Begin in a new color or the same color as you prefer, working from the corner you left the loose end in.

Cast on, being sure to leave the loose end tail through the stitch, as well as the corner chain.

22. Chain 3 (as the first double crochet), then make 2 double crochets next to it

23. Chain 2

24. Make three double crochets into the same corner gap

25. Chain 1

26. Make three double crochets into the edge gap

27. Chain 1

28. Into the next corner make three double crochets, then chain two, then make three further double crochets

29. Chain 1

30. Make three double crochets into the edge gap

31. Chain 1

32. Into the next corner make three double crochets, then chain two, then make three further double crochets

33. Chain 1

34. Make three double crochets into the edge gap

35. Chain 1

36. Into the next corner make three double crochets, then chain two, then make three further double crochets

37. Chain 1

38. Make three double crochets into the edge gap

39. Chain 1 then then slip stitch into the top of your chain 3 from instruction 22.

Cut off a long tail of yarn, and weave the yarn in and out of the tops of the next two stitches.

Round Four

Begin in a new color or the same color as you prefer, working from the corner you left the loose end in.

Cast on, being sure to leave the loose end tail through the stitch, as well as the corner chain.

40. Chain 3 (as the first double crochet), then make 2 double crochets next to it

41. Chain 2

42. Make three double crochets into the same corner gap

43. Chain 1

44. Make three double crochets into the edge gap

45. Chain 1

46. Make three double crochets into the edge gap

47. Chain 1

48. Into the next corner make three double crochets, then chain two, then make three further double crochets

49. Chain 1

50. Make three double crochets into the edge gap

51. Chain 1

52. Make three double crochets into the edge gap

53. Chain 1

54. Into the next corner make three double crochets, then chain two, then make three further double crochets

55. Chain 1

56. Make three double crochets into the edge gap

57. Chain 1

58. Make three double crochets into the edge gap

59. Chain 1

60. Into the next corner make three double crochets, then chain two, then make three further double crochets

61. Chain 1

62. Make three double crochets into the edge gap

63. Chain 1

64. Make three double crochets into the edge gap

65. Chain 1 then slip stitch into the top of the chain three from instruction 40.

Continue Onwards

Now you’ve got the pattern going, all you need to do is continue it as your granny square expands. Each time you’ll have an extra edge gap to fill, but otherwise the pattern will be identical as it grows.

Or you can continue to make multiple smaller granny squares to join together in one big beautiful blanket.

The post Classic Granny Square Instructions in Super Simple Steps  appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

How do you like my 3D snowflake granny square? Pretty festive, huh? I think it would look great mixed up with simpler grannies in candy cane colors, for a jolly sofa throw or blanket.

Rather than making the snowflake and a solid granny square separately, then sewing them together (which is one option), the snowflake is fully integrated into the square. Which means no sewing, and no risk of the stitches coming loose in future.

The first round of the granny square is the center of the snowflake, and then from round 2 the pattern diverges into snowflake, and background. The rest of the snowflake isn’t anchored to the background on my squares – I think leaving the points floating feels more free-falling and snowflake-y. But I have included an instruction for anchoring the points in place as you go, if it suits you better.

3D snowflake granny square pattern

This pattern is written in standard U.S. crochet terms. Using DK yarn and a size G (4mm) hook it produces a square approximately 5″ (13cm) along each side. The stitches and their abbreviations you’ll need to know are:

Ch chain
Sc single crochet
Fpsc front post single crochet*
Dc Double crochet
Sl st slip stitch

* Exactly like the better known front post double crochet, but with a single crochet. There are more detailed instructions in the pattern, if you’re unfamiliar with it.

Round 1

Using white yarn:

1. Magic circle (mc).
2. Ch 3, dc 11 into the mc, sl st into the top of the ch 3 to join.

Background round 2

Continuing with the white yarn:

1. Fpsc around the ch 3 from the start of round 1: insert hook from back to front to the left of the chain, and from front to back on the right on the chain, yarn over and draw through so you have 2 loops on the hook, yarn over again and draw through both loops.
2. Ch 1.
3. *Fpsc around the next dc, ch 1* eleven times.
4. Sl st into the first fpsc.

Cut the yarn and weave in the ends. Here’s round 2 looks from the from the front (on the left), and back (on the right). Notice how the top loops of round 1 have been pushed forward on the front.

Background round 3

Join your red yarn into one of the ch 1 spaces from round 2.

1. (Ch 5, dc 1) into the same ch space.
2. Dc 2 into the next ch space.
3. Dc 2 into the next ch space.
4. (Dc, ch 2, dc) into the next ch space.
5. Repeat steps 2 – 4 twice more.
6. Dc 2 into the next ch space.
7. Dc 2 into the next ch space.
8. Into the next ch space (which is where you started), and sl st into the 3rd st of the ch 5 to join.

Here’s how that looks from the front (left) and back (right):

Background rounds 4 – 6

1. (Sl st, ch 5, dc 2) into the first corner space.
2. Dc into all of the side spaces.
3. (Dc 2, ch 2, dc 2) into the other corner spaces.
4. And when you get back to the first corner space, dc and sl st into the 3rd st of the ch 5 to join.

After the 6th round I tied off my yarn and wove in the ends. But if you’d like a bigger square, simply add more rounds!

Snowflake round 2

Now when you look at the front of your square, the top loops of round 1 are pushed forwards.

Join your white yarn through the top loops of any stitch from round 1.

1. Ch 5, *dc, ch2* 11 times.
2. Sl st into 3rd st of the ch 5 to join.

Snowflake round 3

It looks like there’s still a long way to go, but in fact this is your final round! It’s worked into the chain spaces from the previous round, using an alternating pattern of single- and triple-picot stitch techniques.

1. Into the next chain space (sc, dc, ch 6, sl st into the 1st ch, ch 5*, sl st into the same space as the previous sl st, ch 5, sl st into the same space as the previous sl sts, dc, sc).
2. Into the following chain space, (sc, ch 3, sl st into the 1st ch, sc).
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 six times.
4. Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.

* Optional modification: Make the 3rd chain a slip stitch into the background of your square, to anchor the point in place. I prefer to keep the outline of my snowflake free, and the yarn I’m using is sturdy enough that the points don’t flop about, but anchoring the points is a good idea if your square is likely to be going through the laundry frequently. Try to catch a just single strand from the post of one of the double crochets.

Granny square complete!

This design really benefits from being blocked, and having the picot points on the snowflake gently stretched out to give them definition. To go the whole nine yards, I pin mine out on the ironing board, using some dress maker’s pattern paper to get the outside edges square, and lots of pins to draw out the snowflake shape.

Then I lightly steam it with the iron. Since my yarn is a synthetic blend (90% acrylic, 10% merino wool), it holds its shape really well after that.

I hope you have as much fun making your grannies as I did designing them – happy crocheting!

The post 3D Snowflake Granny Square Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

How cute is this 3D flower granny square? The simple six-petal outline of the flower is easy to make, and really effective. I love how it channels nostalgic florals, 1960’s flower power and the Irish fashion designer Orla Kiely in one big cheerful color-pop.

It’s a perfect way of adding visual depth and tactile detail to granny squares, without gobbling up yarn (I’m looking at you bobble stitch).

How big is it?

My granny squares have 6 rounds, but round 3 (the petals) completely overlaps rounds 4 and 5. Made with dk yarn and a size F (4mm) hook, they measure 4” across (give or take a little, depending on the exact yarn you choose, and your tension). They’re just the right size and proportions for a granny square scarf or sweater. For a bigger project like a blanket, you could easily add a 7th (and 8th) round following the same pattern as round 6. It would add an extra inch to each side of your square, and also make the spaces between the flowers to scale with the size of your project.

3D flower granny square pattern

This pattern is written in standard US crochet terms. The stitches and their abbreviations you need to be familiar with are:

Ch chain
Dc double crochet
Bpdc back post double crochet
Dc-inc double crochet increase (make 2 dc in the same space)
Hdc half double crochet
Sk skip the next stitch from the previous round, and work into the one after
Sl st slip stitch

Rounds 1 & 2

Rounds 1 and 2 follow the basic formula for making a flat circle.

• To start: Using your flower color, either make a magic circle, or by make a chain of 4 stitches and join the first and last chains with a slip stitch.
• Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), dc 11, sl st to the top of the ch 3.
• Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), dc in to the same st, dc-inc 11, sl st into the top of the ch 3.

Round 3

It’s time to add some petals to your flower!

• *Sk 1, dc 6, sk 1, sl st 1* 6 times.

Round 4

Round 4 is made into the back of round 2:

• Sl st around the ch 3 at start of round 2: insert your hook from back to front on the right of the chain and front to back on the left of the chain, yarn over and complete your sl st.
• Ch 3.
• Moving clockwise, bpdc around next st from round 2, and ch 1.
• *Bpdc around the next st from round 2, bpdc around the next st from round 2 again, and ch1* 11 times
• Sl st into the top of the ch 3 from step 2.

Cut the yarn and weave in the ends. Here’s how we’re looking from the front (right) and back (left) now:

Round 5

The next round is worked into the ch 1 spaces from round 4.

• Join your background color yarn into one of the ch 1 spaces from round 4. (Ch 5, dc 3) into the same space.
• Hdc 3 into the next ch 1 space.
• Hdc 3 into the next ch 1 space.
• (Dc 3, ch 2, dc 3) into the next ch 1 space – this makes a corner.
• Repeat steps 2 – 4 twice more.
• Repeat steps 2 & 3.
• The next ch 1 space should be the same one you started in – dc 2 into it, and join the round with a sl st in the 3rd st of the ch 5.

Round 6 onwards

From now on, you granny square follows the same pattern as a regular solid granny square:

• Ch 5 and dc 2 into the corner space.
• Dc along the side of the square.
• (Dc 2, ch 2, dc 2) into the next corner space.
• Repeat steps 2 and 3 twice more.
• Dc along the final side.
• Dc into the corner space you started in, and sl st into the 3rd st of the ch 5 to join.

You can finish there, or add more rounds if you wish.

Done!

Cut the yarn, weave in the ends, and block your finished square. My top tip is to block them face down, to relax and flatten out the petals a bit (but don’t squash them!)

The post 3D Flower Granny Square appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

This treble cluster v-stitch granny square is quick and cosy to make up. In fact, using DK yarn it only takes 4 rounds to make a square 6″ (15cm) across. Since it uses pairs of treble crochet stitches in mini clusters, it’s also denser and warmer than using solo treble crochets.

Overall, I’d say the weight of this square is pretty much equivalent to a traditional granny square – it’s a bit holey, but it’s not lacy. And I just love that little 8-point star in the middle! So it’s ideal for making throws, blankets, granny-square cardigans and scarves.

Mini treble cluster stitches

This square is based on mini clusters of treble crochet stitches. Usually cluster stitches consist of 3 to 5 stitches joined at the top and bottom, but I’m using just 2 trebles per cluster. I’m not sure if that has a proper crochet name, which is why I’ve settled on ‘mini cluster’! Here’s how I made them:

1. Yarn over the hook twice.
2. Insert hook into the next space indicated by the pattern, and draw through a loop of yarn.
3. Yarn over the hook and draw through two loops, twice. Two loops remaining on hook – left photo below.
4. Yarn over the hook twice.
5. Insert hook into the same space again, and draw through a loop of yarn.
6. Yarn over the hook and draw through two loops, twice. Three loops remaining on hook – center photo below.
7. Yarn over and drawn through all three loops – right hand photo below.

Besides these chunky Vs, in this pattern we’ll also be using regular treble crochet stitches, chain stitches, and slip stitches.

Treble cluster v-stitch granny square

Let’s dive into the pattern!

Round 1

Start you granny square using whatever method you prefer: either a magic circle, or 4 chain stitches joined in a loop with a slip stitch.

1. Ch 6 (represents 1 tr and 2 ch sts)
2. *TrCL, ch 2* seven times
3. Join with a slip stitch into the 4th st of the ch 6 at the start of the round.

Round 2

The main thing to remember in this round is don’t make any chain stitches when you’re moving from one chain space to the next.

1. Sl st into the chain space created by the ch 6 at the start of round 1
2. Ch 5 (represents 1 tr which will become half of a trCL, and 1 ch st which will end up in the center of a V)
3. In the same chain space (trCL, ch3, trCL, ch 1, trCL)
4. In the next chain space (trCl, ch 1, trCL)
5. In the next chain space (trCl, ch 1, trCL, ch3, trCL, ch 1, trCL)
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 twice more
7. (TrCL, ch 1, trCL) into the next chain space
8. Tr into the first chain space, and join with a slip stitch to the 4th st of the ch 5 from step 2.

Everywhere you’ve made a ch 3 will be a corner space in the next round.

Round 3

We started round 2 in a corner, but from now on the rounds begin part way down the side of your square.

1. Sl st into the chain space
2. Ch 5, (represents 1 tr which will become half of a trCL, and 1 ch st which will end up in the center of a V)
3. In the same chain space (trCL, ch1, trCL)
4. Corner space: (trCl, ch 1, trCL, ch3, trCL, ch 1, trCL)
5. In the next 3 chain spaces (trCL, ch1, trCL)
6. Repeat steps 3 and 4 twice more
7. Corner space: (trCl, ch 1, trCL, ch3, trCL, ch 1, trCL)
8. In the next 2 chain spaces (trCL, ch1, trCL)
9. Tr into the chain space where you started, and join with a slip stitch to the 4th st of the ch 5 from step 2.

Round 4 and onwards

I’m sure you can see the pattern now:

• Start with a slip stitch, chain 5, and one mini cluster into the first chain space.
• (TrCl, ch 1, trCL) into all the chain spaces along the sides.
• (TrCl, ch 1, trCL, ch3, trCL, ch 1, trCL) into each corner space.
• Finish with a treble crochet in the same chain space you started in, and slip stitch into the 4th stitch of the ch 5 to join.

I’ve made one more round then tied off and woven in the yarn ends, to produce a 6″ square in DK yarn:

And that’s all there is to it! I hope you’ll give this pattern a go, and enjoy working with it as much as I have!

The post Treble Cluster V-Stitch Granny Square appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

How cute is this crochet granny square slipper pattern?! They’re constructed from just six squares each, so they’re perfect for when you fancy making a granny square project, but you haven’t got the time or the will to embark on something big like a blanket.

They’ve got a cosy homespun feel which really does feel like a warm hug for your toes, so they’re a fantastic gift too – for someone you love or just for you

You can also change up the style by using a different more textured granny square for the top of the foot section, like the snowflake or 3D flower designs.

Getting the right size

Since these slippers have a soft sole, they’re a bit like socks when it comes to sizing. In other words, one size will fit several sizes of feet. If you follow this pattern exactly, the slippers will fit roughly ladies’ shoes size 6 – 9 (UK 4 – 7, EU 37 – 40). To make slippers outside of that size range, you’ll need to adapt the size of your granny squares. Don’t let that put you off though, it’s pretty straight forward to do, and I’m going to walk you through it step-by-step.

Basically, the diagonal size of your granny squares needs to be half the circumference of your foot at the widest point. Here’s a worked example of how to measure you feet and calculate the right granny square size for a perfect pair of custom made-to-measure slippers:

• Measure the circumference around the ball of your foot, right above the toes. My feet measure 9” (23cm) around this point.
• Divide that number in half. Which gives me 4½” (11.5cm). This is how big your granny squares need to be from corner to corner.

• It’s not all that intuitive to think about granny squares in terms of their diagonal size, so here’s a handy dandy online calculator for finding out how long the sides will need to be. From it I found out that the sides of my granny squares need to be approximately 3¼” (8.5cm).

My granny square pattern

Here’s the pattern I came up with to make granny squares the right size for my slippers. You can make small adjustments to the size of this pattern by making the 4th round in single crochet (for a smaller square) or double crochet (for a larger square). Or you can come up with your own design for a granny square the right size, and meet me again at the assembly stage!

Remember, you’ll need 12 squares in total – 6 per slipper. I used aran weight yarns in pink, off-white, gray marl, and brown. Rather than using the size H-8 (5mm) hook suggested by the wrapper, I opted for a size G-6 (4.5mm) hook. Your slippers will hold their shape better if the tension is sturdy – since I tend to crochet on the loose side I’ve sized down to

Round 1

Start however you like to start your granny squares – with a magic circle, or with four chain stitches joined in a loop with a slip stitch.

• Ch 3, dc 7, sl st into top of ch 3 to join.

Cut your yarn and weave in the ends.

Round 2

Join your next yarn color. This round consists of 8 cluster stitches of four double crochets, and the first one is worked a little bit differently to the rest.

For the first stitch:

1. Ch 3 – this creates the height you need to complete the round, and also counts as the first double crochet in the cluster.
2. Yarn over hook.
3. Insert hook into the same space you made the slip stitch join into.
4. Yarn over and pull through a loop (3 loops on hook).
5. Yarn over and draw through two loops (2 loops on hook).
6. Repeat steps 2 – 5 twice more (4 loops on hook – below left).
7. Yarn over and draw through all four loops (below center).
8. Ch 2 (below right).

For the rest of the stitches:

1. Yarn over hook.
2. Insert hook into the next space from round 1.
3. Yarn over and pull through a loop (3 loops on hook).
4. Yarn over and draw through two loops (2 loops on hook).
5. Repeat steps 1 – 4 three times (5 loops on hook – below left).
6. Yarn over and draw through all five loops (below center).
7. Chain 2 (below right).

After the last cluster stitch, chain 2 and join to the top of the first cluster stitch with a slip stitch. NOTE: The top of the stitch is the first chain you made to close the cluster, not the top of the ch 3. Cut the yarn, and weave in the ends.

* Only if you’re using half-double crochet for this round. If you’re using single or double crochet to modify the size of your square, work into every stitch of each side.

Cut your yarn, weave in the ends, and block your square. Make 11 more squares.

Crochet granny square slipper pattern: assembling stage

Squares made, it’s time to think about how you’re going to join them together. Here’s an illustration of how the squares are going to be pieced together:

I’ve labeled the corresponding sides, so 1a joins to 1a, and so on. Joins 1a and 1b can be made one after the other with without cutting the yarn in between. Joins 2a – 2d can also be made in one go, and likewise joins 3a – 3d.

Let’s start with the first join, along seams 1a and 1b.

I joined my granny squares mine using single crochet stitches – hold the squares right sides together, and insert the hook through the front and back loops of both squares. It’s a chunky join, which I love because it makes an aesthetic nod to moccasins. But I can feel the seams under my feet a bit, an if the thought of that puts you off, you could join your squares with a flat mattress stitch or whip stitch instead.

Adding the back of the heel

The next step is adding the back of the heel. Here’s a map for joining that square:

• When you get to corner A, place two stitches in the corner space of the heel square – one for each of the other squares.
• When you get to corner B, use three stitches to join the corner spaces, like this:

• The final edge between corner B and the arrow head joins to the edge marked by the star – make sure the wrong sides of your squares are facing each other!
• Treat corner B the same as corner A – make two stitches in the corner space of the heel square, one for each of the other squares.

Adding the last square

The sixth square sits on top of the foot.

If you fold in the side squares now, you can see now how that top square is going to join along all four edges.

• Start at the top corner that’s going to sit above the arch of the foot, and work along the first edge (I prefer to move clockwise, but it’s not important).
• In the next corner space make two stitches – one into the square that folds around the the side of the foot, and one into the square at the front of the sole.
• In the corner which forms the toe point, make three stitches into the corner space.
• And in the last corner space make two stitches – one into the square at the front of the sole and one into the square that folds around the the side of the foot.

When you get back to the corner you started in, don’t cut the yarn – you can dive straight into making the edging around the opening with it.

Adding a picot edging

This slipper is really starting to come together! Let’s add a picot edging around the opening, to give that edge a more polished look and tie it in with the seams. The edge is made in two rows, in a counter-clockwise direction. The direction is important to ensure to the little picot bobbles pop outwards, not inwards!

• The first row is straight forward single crochet all the way round the edge.
• The second row is a simple picot border based on a two-stitch repeat: sl st, dc. The short slip stitches push the tall double crochets outwards, making an attractive bobble edge.

Finish row two on a slip stitch, cut the yarn, and weave in all the ends from joining your squares.

Pompoms

The finishing touch on my slippers are some cute little pompoms. Not only do they look the part, they’re perfect for hiding the seam joins on the front of your slipper. Also if you’ve never made little pompoms on a fork before, prepare to discover a new crafting addiction!

• Cut a 4” piece of yarn and hold it between the second and third tines of a fork (top left above).
• Wrap yarn from the ball 20 – 30 times around all four tines.
• Cut the yarn, and use the 4” piece to make an overhand knot around the center of your pom pom (top right above).
• Poke the ends through to the other side of the fork, and tie two or three more knots to fully secure the center of the pompom (bottom left above).
• Slip the pompom off the fork and carefully cut all the loops so your pompom opens out. Trim it into shape, and repeat the steps to make a second.
• Make a chain of 12 stitches, and ties your pompoms to the ends (bottom right above).

Finally, use a short length of yarn to tie your pompoms to the front of your slipper.

Now make another one!

Repeat the whole process to make a second slipper, and then put them on and wear them with pride! Or in my case, notice them sneaking out of the room on the feet of my daughter. Luckily this quick and fun pattern is easy to make again and again! I hope you enjoy making it too.

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