Hello and welcome to my quick guide to making ripple stitch and wave stitch granny squares. Ripple stitch and wave stitch patterns are gorgeously curvy and undulating. When you use them inside granny squares, they provide a striking visual contrast to the straight edges and sharp corners of the square itself. Perfect for making eye-catching blankets, throw pillows or tote bags! I also love them for how meditative they are to make – they are simple enough to let your mind wander at the same time, but not so basic as to be monotonous to work on.

Take me straight to the patterns!

I’ve got some pretty nerdy things to say about adapting ripple stitch and wave stitch pattern for use on a granny square scale. And I’m going to share them all, so that you can get the best out of these patterns, and even adapt them for your own project if you need to. But if you don’t want to read them, these links will take your straight to the patterns:

• Simple ripple pattern granny square
• 3D ripple granny square
• Simple wave pattern granny square – single row repeat
• Improved wave pattern granny square – two row repeat

Ripple stitches and wave stitches

First things first, what are ripple stitches, what are wave stitches, and how do you tell them apart?

Using wave stitch and ripple stitch in granny squares

Variations of wave stitch and ripple stitch have existed in crochet for a loooooooong time. They’re popular choices for blankets, because they’re simple to make, but produce visually arresting results. And there are literally hundreds of tutorials for replicating the classic ripple stitch pattern and wave stitch pattern elsewhere online. But I’m interested in how to get the most out of them on a small scale, in granny squares. If you’re planning a granny square project using ripple or wave patterns, there are a few things to consider:

1. Scale

Ripple and wave patterns are usually based on a repeating pattern of 14 stitches (give or take). But a traditional 4” granny square made in DK yarn is usually only about 16 stitches across. So you won’t get enough pattern repeats for the ripples or waves to really reveal themselves. To achieve a more effective result, you either need to make bigger than usual squares, or adapt the pattern to fit more ripples or waves into the same space.

Coming up down below is my solution for fitting a nice tight ripple or wave pattern into a standard granny square. It’s all about matching the scale of the pattern to the size of the square!

2. Pattern placement

Most traditional wave stitch patterns are based on a single repeating row. But I’m going to show you how using a pattern with two repeating rows can result in better pattern placement and a more versatile design for granny squares.

3. Getting straight edges

Usually with ripple stitch and wave stitch the top and bottom edge of the work are wavy. For blankets that’s no big deal – it’s a nice design feature in fact. But for granny squares it’s no good, because it makes it difficult to join those edges quickly and neatly. To give my granny squares four straight edges, there are special instructions for the first and last rows.

4. Getting strong edges

Finally, we want the vertical edges of our squares to be strong and straight too, so that we can join them securely without worrying about stretching or distortion. I love to achieve this using stacked single crochets at the start of each row instead of turning chains. I’ll show you how to do that now, before we go on.

Starting rows with stacked single crochets

Using stacked single crochets in place of turning chains at the beginning of a row creates a strong, straight edge. And they’re so easy you’ll hardly ever want to use a turning chain again!

1. At the beginning of your new row, make a single crochet straight into the top of the first stitch (below left). Note – there’s no turning chain first.
2. Next insert the hook under the left leg of that single crochet (below center).
3. And make another single crochet (below right). The result is a stitch about the same height and width as a regular double crochet stitch.

To make a stacked treble crochet, just insert the hook into the left leg of the top single crochet (indicated by the arrow below) and make another single crochet.

NOTE: This technique doesn’t work for the first row. If you try and single crochet into the closest chain to the hook of a foundation chain, that chain stitch will just unravel! So, the first row of my granny squares include some turning chains, which don’t count as stitches in the next row.

The patterns

Right, let’s get stuck into some granny squares! The stitches and their abbreviations you’ll need to know are:

St(s) Stitch(es)
Ch Chain
Sk Skip
Sc Single crochet
Hdc Half treble crochet
Dc Double crochet
Tr Treble crochet

Lucy’s written details on these basic stitches here. For the ripple patterns I’ve also used the following:

Inc Increase (make two double crochets in the same space)
Dc2tog Double crochet two together

If you’re not familiar with the double crochet two together instruction, it goes like this:

1. Start a double crochet stitch in the next space, but stop with two loops still left on the hook (below left).
2. Repeat exactly the same steps in the next stitch (below center).
3. You’ll have three loops left on the hook. Put the yarn over your hook, and draw it through all three loops (below right).

You can even decrease with the stacked single crochets at the start of a row. Make the first single crochet as usual, then pull the yarn through its left leg, and stop there without finishing the second single crochet. Then start another double crochet in the next stitch, and pick up from step 2 above.

Simple ripple pattern granny square

This is a simple single row repeat for the most part, but as for all these squares, it needs a special top and bottom row to give it straight edges.

• Foundation chain: Multiple of 10, plus 1. I’ve used 21 sts.
• Row 1: Sk 1, *sc, hdc 2, dc, tr 2, dc, hdc 2, sc* to end. Change color.
• Row 2: *Dc2tog, dc 2, inc 2, dc 2, dc2tog* to end. Change color.
• Repeat row 2 until your granny is just shy of square.
• Final row: *Tr, dc 2, hdc, sc 2, hdc, dc 2, tr* to end.

3D ripple granny square

This is a really easy twist on the pattern above, and it looks so effective. The only bummer is, I just can’t get a photo that does it justice! It’s not a bulky 3D effect, it’s a subtle one where each ripple looks like it slightly overlaps the previous one. Quite simply, it elevates them into *real* ripples, and I love it.

• Foundation chain: Multiple of 10, plus 1. I’ve used 21 sts.
• Row 1: Sk 1, *sc, hdc 2, dc, tr 2, dc, hdc 2, sc* to end. Change color.
• Row 2: Working into the back loops only of the previous row: *dc2tog, dc 2, inc 2, dc 2, dc2tog* to end.
• Row 3: Working into both loops of the previous row: *dc2tog, dc 2, inc 2, dc 2, dc2tog* to end. Change color.
• Repeat rows 2 and 3 until your granny is just shy of square.
• Final row: Working into the back loops only of the previous row: *tr, dc 2, hdc, sc 2, hdc, dc 2, tr* to end.

Simple wave pattern granny square – single row repeat

Now let’s look at the wavy designs. This single row repeat is the classic wave stitch pattern. It would do the job for a granny square project showcasing a different design in every square, but in every other respect I think the alternative approach below is better!

• Foundation chain: Multiple of 8, plus 4. I’m using 20 stitches.
• Row 1: Sk 2, *dc 6, sc 2* to two stitches from end, dc 2. Change color.
• Row 2: *Dc 2, tr 2, dc 2, sc 2* to two stitches from end, dc 2. Change color.
• Repeat row 2 until your granny is just shy of square.
• Final row: *Dc 6, sc 2* to two stitches from end, dc 2.

Improved wave pattern granny square – two row repeat

The problem with the pattern above is that each row stops half way through a wave. Which I think looks clunky if you want to line up the squares next to others that look the same. This version fixes that.

• Foundation chain: Multiple of 8, plus 6.
• Row 1: Sk 2, dc 2, *sc 2, dc 6* to 4 sts from end, sc 2, dc 2. Change color.
• Row 2: *Dc 2, tr 2, dc 2, sc 2* to 6 sts from end, dc 2, tr 2, dc 2. Change color.
• Row 3: *Dc 2, sc 2, dc 2, tr 2* to 6 sts from end, dc 2, sc 2, dc 2. Change color.
• Repeat rows 2 and 3 until your granny is just shy of being square, finishing on a repeat of row 2.
• Final row: Dc 2, *sc 2, dc 6* to 4 sts from end, sc 2, dc 2.

The green rows are repeats of row 2, and the off white rows are repeats of row 3. Once you’ve made the pattern like this, you can arrange the squares at right angles to achieve a result like this. It’s giving strong ‘60s vibes and I love it!

Ripple stitch and wave stitch granny squares

There you have it – everything I’ve learned about making ripple stitch and wave stitch granny squares, from hours of trial and error. And the only four patterns I think you’ll ever need! There’s just one more thing you need to know before you go: because ripple and wave stitches rely on changing color between rows to make their pattern stand out, you’ll end up with lots of ends to weave in. I can’t tell you how much of time I spent preparing this article was taken up just by weaving in ends!

The post 4 Ways To Make Ripple Stitch And Wave Stitch Granny Squares appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

I love a granny square. They are a staple of the crochet world, the first thing many people learn, and yet the variations are so far ranging. Whether you want something bold and simple or complicated and curious, there is a granny square pattern for you.

Solid Granny Squares

A total foundation of my granny square experience is this solid design. I find it so multifunctional, and with varying color changes you can use such a straight forward design in some really fascinating ways.

Bullion Stitch

Want to knock your crochet up a notch, then consider the bullion stitch. It’s not quite your regular crochet, but well worth the extra effort and the latch hook you’ll need* isn’t too pricey.

Bean Stitch Grannies

Beans, tasty and crochetable! Who’d have thought. The standard and mini bean stitch both make for gorgeous granny afghans, especially if you mix and match them in your throw.

Waffle Stitch Granny Squares

Waffle stitches are time consuming, but so worth the effort. It’s not just the look, you’ll adore the thick, lustrous texture too.

Shell Stitch

Shell stitches combine traditional crochet styles in a modern way. Gorgeous as standalone shapes or sewn together as a blanket, this sloped stitch is my bet for the next big thing.

Linen Stitches

Linen stitch might sound mundane, but it’s really not. You can use it in several ways, and combine them to make really unique yet simple style granny blankets.

Four V Stitches

I have four different v stitch granny squares for you, which bring remarkably different designs to the table. My personal favorite is the expanding version, but you can mix and match them as you like.

Bobble Stitch Designs

Bobble stitch granny squares have basically infinite variations, depending on where you choose to put your bobbles!

And you can even take your granny blanket’s cuteness to the next level by bobble stitching shapes and designs. Love it!

Star Granny Squares

These five point stars look tricky, but don’t worry, Sarah has done all the complex parts for you already with the design. All you need to do is follow her simple instructions.

Circle Designs

Circular granny squares look their very best when they are outlined in white or cream shades, to really highlight the shape.

Modern Hearts

The perfect granny square for someone you love, surely! I adore this modern style, and it goes gorgeously with the stars and circles above too.

Going Diagonal

I was bowled away when I first saw this one come together. It’s not just the slanted angle that’s been pulled off so neatly, I also highly recommend using this color combination too. It pops!

Sunny Skies

These sun granny squares made a blanket that I almost, but not quite, regret giving as a gift. I think I’m going to have to make another one for myself!

*The products linked in this pattern were carefully selected by Lucy Kate Crochet. If you decide to purchase using the links provided, we may earn a small commission on that sale. This is at no extra cost to you.

The post Free Granny Square Crochet Patterns appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

How would you describe a granny square that’s split in half diagonally, and one color on each side of that line? A two-triangle granny square? A diagonal granny square? Perhaps you’d even recognize that the color changes have been achieved using tapestry crochet? In fact, I think the hardest part of making this tutorial has been deciding how to describe what I’m showing you! Because actually making a two-tone granny square like this (see, another option right there) is dead simple. And the result is incredibly effective – especially if you want to make a granny square blanket that mimics some of the traditional shapes and patterns usually seen in quilting, like sawtooth stars and pinwheels.

• Before you get started
• The pattern
• Tips on technique

Making diagonal granny squares

These granny squares are a striking twist on a solid granny square. But with two colors, and a small pattern adjustment, to achieve the best effect. Usually to incorporate more than one color into a granny square the extra colors are added in concentric rounds, working outwards from the center. Or you could work in rows, and make stripes of color. But this time we’re going to look at a third way – carrying one shade of yarn inside the stitches of another, so you can switch at any time. This method is called tapestry crochet. And these squares are a great project to start with if you’re new to tapestry crochet, and want to get a feel for how it’s done.

Some notes before you get started

Choosing colors

You can make these diagonally split granny squares in any two colors. But, the greater the contrast between them, the more likely it is you’ll be able to spot the little places where one is poking through the other. And no matter how careful and neat you are, there will be some little places where you can see the yarn you’re carrying through your stitches. It actually put me off using this technique for the longest time. But eventually something shifted, and I’ve learned to appreciate they’re just part of the charm.

Hook size and tension

As a general rule, you can make these squares with whatever hook size your yarn calls for on the wrapper. But, if your natural tension errs towards the loose side, you might find you get better results if you drop down a hook size. This will increase the tension in your square slightly and hold the yarn you’re carrying more in position more securely. Even though the yarn carried inside another stitch can never come loose from the stitch entirely, it can wiggle up inside the stitch over time and become more visible, if your tension is very loose.

The pattern

The sequence of stitches for making these squares contains few surprises. The magic is all in the color changes. You’ll need to know how to chain, slip stitch, and make a double crochet stitch. If you need a refresher on any of those, check out this introduction to the basic crochet stitches. It will also help if you’re familiar with making a solid granny square in just one color.

To start

Using your first yarn color (yarn A), make a magic circle. Or you can chain 4 and join them with a slip stitch to form a loop, if you prefer.

Round 1

Ch3 (counts as the first dc). Working into the magic loop and catching the yarn’s tail as you go, dc 1. Start another dc, but stop before the final yarn over.

Drop yarn A and pick up your second yarn (yarn B). Loop it over the hook from back to front, and use it to finish the double crochet stitch.

Using yarn B:

• Ch 1
• Dc 3 into the magic loop, catching yarn A and both yarn tails as you go.
• Ch 1
• Dc 3 into the magic loop, catching yarn A and both yarn tails as you go, and stopping before the final yarn over of the last stitch.

Drop yarn B and pick up yarn A. Make sure it goes behind yarn B, and your yarn tails. Then bring it over your hook, and use it to finish the double crochet stitch.

Continuing to use yarn A:

• Ch 1
• Dc 3 into the magic loop (catching color B and both yarn tails as you go)
• Ch 1
• Sl st to the top of the ch 3 to join.

You should have four sides, each with 3 dc, and four corner spaces, each with one chain. Using single chain corner spaces is an important feature of this pattern – I’ll show you why before the end of this article!

Now is a good time to weave in the yarn tails and get them out of the way. If you started with a magic circle, you can pull the tail of yarn A to tighten the circle. You might also need to pull the tail of yarn B ever so slightly, to take up any slack in it. But, do not pull hard on the tail of yarn B – that will create a dimple in the corner where you joined it.

Round 2

Let yarn B hang free. Using yarn A, ch 3, dc 1 into the corner space.

Next you need to control yarns A and B simultaneously for a moment. Loop yarn A over your hook, in preparation for making a double crochet stitch. Hold yarn B just behind the top of the next stitch, so that it comes up slightly to the right of the stitch*, and travels behind the stitch from right to left. Insert your hook into the top of the ch 3 from round 1 and under yarn B.

* Assuming you’re right handed. If you’re left handed, it will come up to the left of the stitch.

Pick up yarn A and draw it back through the stitch.

Complete your double crochet using yarn A. Here’s the back of the finished stitch, with yarn B trapped at its base:

Now yarn B is in position, it’s quite easy to keep in there while you make the rest of the side. Make 2 more dc into the side stitches, and 2 dc into the corner space. Stop before the final yarn over of the last stitch.

Release yarn A. Pick up yarn B making sure it goes behind yarn A, and use it to finish that double crochet.

Hold yarn A behind the top of the stitches along the next side of your square and use yarn B to:

• Ch 1, and dc 2 into the corner space.
• *Dc into the next 3 stitches, then (dc 2, ch 1, dc 2) into the corner space* twice, stopping before the final yarn over of the last stitch.

Carrying your yarn

Make sure that when you put your hook into each stitch (or the chain space) it goes below yarn A, so that it gets caught in your stitches. Take care not to miss the first stitch on each edge – because the corner spaces are small and so full of stitches, they tend to hide it a bit!

You’ve got the technique now, so switch back to yarn A to finish the round, catching yarn B inside the stitches. Repeat for as many rounds as you want, then tie off and weave in your ends.

Blocking

Finally, block your square to make the edges straight and the corners sharp. Blocking makes an especially big difference when you’re only using one chain to make your corner spaces.

The importance of carrying the yarn behind your stitches

Carrying your yarn slightly behind the previous row of stitches rather than sitting on top of them makes all the difference to how these granny squares turn out. In this picture, I’m about to start working with the white yarn, and carrying the pink yarn inside the stitches. When I look down on the top of my stitches, you can see that I’m holding the pink yarn alongside them, to the wrong side of my work.

Here’s how that looks, compared to if I’d held it on top of them instead.

The square on the left can also start looking like the square on the right over time, if the tension is very loose. Which is why it’s a good idea to use a smaller crochet hook than usual, if you tend to crochet loosely.

What happens if you make two chains in the corners?

For a regular solid granny square, it’s more usual to make two chain stitches in the corner spaces. Using just one for this design is a fantastic tip I picked up from the awesomely talented Therese Hagstedt on Instagram. It works a treat to conceal the ‘wrong’ colored yarn at the corners. I’ve taken this photo slightly sideways onto show you clearly what I mean:

But it’s pretty obvious from any angle in real life – on the square with 2 chains at the corner spaces, the red yarn is clearly visible in the white corner spaces. It’s also poking through the white yarn in the top-left corner spaces. Using just one chain in the corner spaces forces the stitches in the space to bunch together more tightly, fixing these problems.

Tapestry crochet variations

These granny squares are the perfect solution for incorporating triangles and diagonal lines into granny square projects. I’m planning to make enough for a three-color blanket with a pin wheel design. But for more inspiration, try researching traditional quilt making blocks. There are some great examples of what’s possible here.

For more intricate designs, you could even switch colors at every corner, so the square is divided into four triabgles and the colors look like hourglasses.

Diagonal granny square – summary

This granny square pattern is one of the most visually striking, without being intricate to make. I love the impact the bright colors I’ve chosen have – I think they’re going to bring a great energy to my finished blanket. But more muted, tonal hues would have a classic, timeless feel. Let me know which colors you’d use in the comments box down below!

The post How To Make A Diagonal Granny Square appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Understated luxury probably isn’t a term most people associate with granny squares, but if it was, they’d use it to describe a bullion stitch granny square. Bullion stitch isn’t as showy as star stitches, or as three-dimensional as bobble stitch. But it’s very distinctive, and no other stitch can pass for it. And boy is it slow to work with. Plus it takes a fair amount of practice to make a uniform row of bullion stitches. So if you see a project with bullion stitch granny squares in it, you know some time and experience that can’t be faked went into making it. And you know what? It looks pretty good too!

• What is bullion stitch?
• How to crochet a bullion stitch
• How to make bullion stitches without a latch hook
• Bullion stitch granny square in rounds: pattern
• Bullion stitch granny square in rows: pattern

What is bullion stitch

Put simply, it’s one of these! Or as my 10 year old describes them, “those funny little croissant stitches”.

Bullion stitch features a tightly wound coil of yarn, threaded onto a central core, and held in place with a chain stitch at the top. The coil can have anywhere between 6 and 14 twists in it. But the classic and most widely used number is 7, since 7 twists usually results in a bullion stitch close to the same height as a double crochet stitch. Meaning you can use them next to each other without your working edge getting hopelessly wavy and wobbly.

Crocheting bullion stitch

The first distinctive feature of bullion stitch is that most people set aside their regular crochet hook and use a latch hook to make it instead. Drawing a regular crochet hook neatly through several coils of yarn is really tricky. Unlike drawing it through one or two loops at a time, as in the basic crochet stitches, you can’t do it in one smooth motion. So you have to manipulate each loop off the hook individually. And inevitably some end up being tight, whilst others end up loose.

Enter, a latch hook

If you’ve never seen a latch hook before, behold – your new bullion stitch making best friend.

Latch hooks are also used for making latch-hooked rugs, throw pillows and wall hangings. But we’re going to use it to draw our yarn through several loops at a time, without the hook snagging and getting stuck. The hinged bit beneath the hook swings freely. It pushes open and flush with the shaft when you insert the hook into a stitch. Then when you pull the hook back through the stitch, it swings shut, so that several loops of yarn can slide right off the end of the hook, without getting caught.

How to crochet a bullion stitch

These are the steps for making a bullion stitch:

• Wrap the yarn around the hook 7 times. The yarn comes over the hook towards you , and goes under the hook away from you – exactly the same as ‘yarn over’ in any other stitch.
• Insert the hook through both loops of the stitch you’re making your bullion stitch into. The latch will open as you do this.
• Yarn over, and draw back through. The latch will close as you pull it back through – make sure your working yarn is trapped inside the hook!
• Now slide your new loop back along the hook, to the other side of the latch.
• Yarn over again, and draw through all 8 loops on the hook.

• The loop left on your hook is the core of your bullion stitch. If your tension is too tight and the core is very short, your stitch will look bunched up and bulgy at the end. If your tension is too loose and the core is long, your stitch will look straggly and likely it’s starting to unwind. So check and make any tension adjustments before you move on. I find I need to lift my hook just a millimeter to make my core fractionally longer.

• Yarn over, and draw though the remaining loop on your hook. This chain stitch secures and finishes your bullion stitch. Check your tension again – if this stitch is tight, your bullion stitch will end up coiled up like a cooked shrimp!

Here’s a video showing all those steps together:

No latch hook? No problem

Let’s quickly have a look at what happens if you use a standard crochet hook. The hook doesn’t slide easily through all eight loops, so you need to pinch one at a time between finger nail and thumb nail, and lift them over the end of your hook.

It’s exceptionally tricky keeping the tension even doing this. The coil tends to end up looking like a tiny typhoon.

Maybe typhoon stitch should become a thing, but it’s not the effect we’re looking for here! However if you don’t have a latch hook, you can still experiment with bullion stitch. All you need is:

• A second crochet hook, knitting needle, or smooth chopstick
• Washi tape, rubber bands, or hair ties.

I’ve used a small double pointed knitting needle. The trick is to position it so close to the tip of your hook that when you slide all your loops off they slip free of the hook too, without snagging. But you also need to allow just enough space that you can still use your crochet hook to pick up yarn and pull it through.

This hack is handy for testing a sample of bullion stitch, and deciding if you want to use it on a bigger scale. But if you decide to go ahead, it’s worth investing in a latch hook. They only cost about $5, and they make bullion stitch much quicker. And by ‘much quicker’ I still mean pretty slow compared to most other stitches!

2 bullion stitch granny squares

Bullion stitch works for making granny squares in the round, and in rows. The decorative effect really is beautiful. For example, they would look stunning at the center of a flower granny square. Both types of bullion stitch granny are single sided, meaning they have a right side, and a wrong side. And the trick for making either style look good is to go slow, take your time, don’t rush.

Both patterns use standard US crochet terms. The standard abbreviation for bullion stitch is BS. It’s ok to smirk whenever you see it, I won’t judge.

How to make a bullion stitch granny square in rounds

• Make a magic circle, or sc 4 and join with a sl st – crocheter’s choice!
• Round 1: Sc 5, sl st to join. 5 sts.
• Round 2: Ch 3, 2 BS into each st, sl st into first BS to join. This results in 10 bullion stitches, and also 10 chain stitches – for the purposes of the next round we’re going to count all of them. 20 sts.
• Round 3: Ch 3, *BS 4, 2 BS into next stitch* 4 times, sl st into the first BS to join. This results in 24 bullion stitches, and also 24 chain stitches – for the purpose of the next round we’re going to count all of them. 48 sts.
• Round 4: Ch1, sc 1, hdc 2, dc 2, tr 1, ch 2, *tr 1, dc 2, hdc 2, sc 2, hdc 2, dc 2, tr 1, ch 2* 3 times, tr 1, dc 2, hdc 2, sc 1, sl st to first sc. 48 side sts, plus 4 pairs of corner chains.
• Round 5: Ch 3, dc 6, (dc 2, ch 2, dc 2) into corner space, *dc 12, (dc 2, ch 2, dc 2) into corner space* 3 times, dc 6, sl st to first dc to join. Cut yarn and weave in ends.

How to make a bullion stitch granny square in rows

Working bullion stitch in rows is a little different to working it in rounds. You have to remember to only work into the tops of the bullion stitches themselves, not the chains between as well. I’ve used stacked single crochets at the start of my rows, for a sturdy, straight edge. But you can replace them with three chain stitches if you prefer. I described how to stack two single crochets in my v-stitch granny square tutorial.

• Foundation chain: Using a larger hook (I sized up from a size F/4mm hook to a size J/6mm hook) make an odd number of chains.
• Row 1: Switch to the correct hook size for your yarn. Starting at the fourth stitch from the hook, dc all the way along the foundation chain.
• Row 2: Stack 2 sc in the first st, dc 1, BS to 2 sts from the end of the row, dc 2.
• Row 3: Ch 1, sc into every dc and every BS – but not the chains in between them!
• Repeat rows 2 & 3 until your granny is just shy of square.
• Final row: Stack 2 sc into the first st, dc across whole row, tie off and weave in ends.

Bullion stitch granny square – summary

Bullion stitches are decorative and unique. Making them with a latch hook is a bit fiddly at first – getting to grips with any new piece of equipment takes time. But like every other skill in crochet it gets easier with practice! Even with plenty of experience, they are one of the slowest stitches to work with though. They’re a sophisticated and understated way of embellishing a granny square bag or blanket for another crochet lover. They’ll really appreciate the extra lengths you went to! Let us know how you’re going to use your bullion stitch granny squares in the comments box down below.

The post Bullion Stitch Granny Square appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

V-stitches are a great way to whip up speedy granny squares with interesting textures. You can use double, half double, or single crochet to make v-stitch. Whichever you choose, your granny square will be finished with one third less yarn than if you’d made it to the same size using solid stitches. So you’ll finish your project faster, and you’ll save money. Here are 4 ways to make beautiful v-stitch granny squares.

• V-stitch – how is it made and what is it good for?
• Double crochet v-stitch granny square in rows
• Double crochet v-stitch granny square in the round
• Half double crochet v-stitch square
• Single crochet v-stitch grannies, a.k.a. spider stitch squares

V-stitch – how is it made and what is it good for?

Without a doubt, the best thing about v-stitches is how quickly you can cover a lot of area with them! Compared to making a solid granny square of the same size, a v-stitch granny square has 33% fewer stitches. But I don’t like them just because they’re thrifty with yarn. V-stitches of all sizes produce intriguing and tactile patterns. They really beckon you in to take a closer look! V-stitch is also extremely beginner friendly – it relies on just two basic stitches at a time, and the bare minimum effort for counting.

The formula for a v-stitch is stitch-chain-stitch, all made into the same place. The stitches can be single, half double, or double crochet. They could even half treble, treble or double-treble crochet, but I had to draw the line somewhere or this article would never be finished! Since a v-stitch is one stitch wide at the bottom, and three stitches wide at the top, it forms v-shape. The next row of stitches is worked inside the chain space, so that the Vs stack in neat vertical rows:

V-stitch granny squares are great for making:

• Scarves and shawls with fantastic drape
• Lightweight blankets for spring and fall
• Summer sweaters and cardigans

But they’re not a great choice for granny square bags, unless you use cotton yarn or put a lining in your bag, because they tend to stretch and sag. Double and half-double V-stitch are not the best choice for baby blankets either, because they have lots of holes for little fingers to get snagged in. Single crochet v-stitch is denser and free from gaps or holes though!

4 ways to make a v-stitch granny square

Here are four ways of making granny squares out of v-stitch:

And here’s how they’re made. All the patterns are written in standard US crochet terms. Remember than when multiple stitches are grouped inside brackets, it means you make them all into the same place. So a double crochet v-stitch looks like this: (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1).

Double crochet v-stitch granny square in rows

Double crochet v-stitch is the only variation which works in rows, and in the round. The advantage of making it in rows is that it’s easier to keep the edges nice and straight. If you’re new to crochet and haven’t used v-stitches before, a simple square made in rows is also a good way to introduce it to you, and show you how it’s put together.

Rows of v-stitch inevitably need two closely-placed stitches at the beginning and end of each row, in order for the pattern to work. I like to balance them out with a row of straightforward double crochet at the top and bottom of the square too. I like how this also creates a solid border and lattice center – almost like a window. Lots of these in different colors would make an interesting granny square blanket, and the solid borders would make it feel a bit more substantial than using double crochet v-stitch alone. The solid border is also handy for concealing your joins!

How it’s done

• Foundation chain: Make a multiple of 3, plus 6. The number of multiples of three is how many Vs you’ll end up with per row. My foundation chain is 21 (15+6), so it will have 5 Vs per row.
• Row 1: Starting in the 4th chain from the hook, dc 1 into every stitch.
• Row 2: Make a stacked single crochet into the first stitch of the row. Stacked single crochets are a sturdier alternative to turning chains, and result in a straighter edge. If you’ve never made one before, it’s simple! Make a single crochet in the usual way, then insert your hook into the left leg of that sc like this:

and make another sc. This makes a little stacked pair of single crochets. To complete the row, dc 1, skip 1 st, (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1), *skip 2 sts, (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1)* until there are 3 sts left. Skip 1 st, dc 2 (indicated by the arrows below). The final stitch is into the top of the turning chain from the first row – don’t miss it!

• Row 3: Stack 2 sc in the first st. Dc 1, (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into each of the chain spaces from the previous row. Dc into each of the final two stitches.
• Row 4 onwards: Repeat row 3 until your granny is just shy of square, then finish with a row of dc.

V-stitch granny square in the round

If you prefer to make your granny squares in rounds rather than rows, this is the pattern for you. It’s super lightweight and airy, and really fast to work up.

• Make a magic circle.
• Round 1: Chain 4 (represents 1 dc and 1 ch), dc1, ch3, *dc 1, ch 1, dc 1, ch 3* 3 times, sl st into 3rd st of the ch 4.

• Round 2: (Sl st, ch 4, dc1) into the next chain space – marked with the star above. (Dc 1, ch 1, dc 1, ch 3, dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the corner space. *(Dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the next chain space and (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1, ch 3, dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into the following corner space* 3 times. Sl st into the 3rd st of the ch 4.

• All further rounds: (Sl st, ch 4, dc1) into the next chain space. (Dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into all the side spaces, and (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1, ch 3, dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) into all the corner spaces.

I’ve stopped after 4 rounds, to match the size of the other grannies I’ve made for this article.

As you can see, the sides of my square are starting to twist a little, meaning they no longer sit straight. If you’re going to add more than 4 rounds, start turning your square over between rounds. So the ‘wrong side’ should be facing you for the 5th row, 7th row, and so on. This will keep the edges nice and square!

Half double crochet v-stitch square

Half double crochet v-stitch is one of my all time favorites. If you make it on a smaller hook size than your yarn usually calls for, it looks like stars. And if you make it with the correct hook size, it produces a wonderful mesh-like fabric – neither solid, nor so lacy that it snags on things.

• Foundation chain: Multiple of 3, plus 2. My square starts with a chain of 25 (21 + 4).
• Row 1: Starting in the 4th chain from the hook *(hdc 1, ch 1, hdc 1), skip 2 sts* until you have 1 st remaining, hdc in the final stitch.
• Row 2: Ch 2, (hdc 1, ch 1, hdc 1) into each chain space from the previous row, hdc into the top of the turning chain.
• Repeat row 2 until your granny is square!

What about an HDC v-stitch granny square in the round?

Half double crochet v-stitch only really works to make granny squares in rows. This is because half double stitches are wide relative to their height. Meaning if you work them in rounds, the edges of the square end up wavy and won’t sit flat. To get round that in a standard hdc granny square, we usually skip the first stitch on each side. But that’s easier said than done when you’re working with v-stitches! In fact, I would go so far as to say it can’t be done. But if you can prove me wrong, please show me how in the comments!

Single crochet v-stitch grannies

Finally, what about a single crochet v-stitch granny square? Single crochet v-stitch is also known as spider stitch. It’s a brilliant alternative to using plain old single crochet, because it’s still warm and dense, but it’s faster to work up. It also has a charming, vintage-feeling texture. Spider stitch granny squares made in muted neutrals and pastel hues have a homely, cottagecore vibe.

• Foundation chain: Make a multiple of 3. I used a foundation chain of 24.
• Row 1: Starting in the 4th chain from the hook *(sc 1, ch 1, sc 1), skip 2 sts* until you have 2 sts remaining. Skip 1 st, sc 1.
• Row 2: Ch 2, (sc 1, ch 1, sc 1) into each chain space from the first row, sc into the top of the turning chain from the previous row. Don’t worry if it curls up – that will sort itself out when you make the 3rd and 4th rows.
• Repeat row 2 until your square is as tall as it is wide.

Usually chain spaces are the easiest thing in the world to find, but in this case they’re surprisingly shy! Here they are:

V-stitch granny squares – summary

V-stitches are quick and satisfying to make granny squares from. Depending on the height of the stitch you choose, the results can look very different too! If you’re a stickler for making your granny squares in rounds, then your options are a bit more limited. But I think all four possibilities are worthy of consideration for your next granny square project. Let us know what you have in mind using the comments box down below!

The post V-Stitch Granny Square – 4 Types To Try appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

What could be cuter than a granny square with a heart motif in the middle? Hearts are a popular shape for incorporating into crochet, knitting, embroidery and quilts. Maybe we just can’t resist making a point about the love we put into our work, or using the opportunity to make a statement about how we feel about someone else! This modern heart granny square is a little different from other patterns I’ve seen, because it’s designed to pair perfectly with my star granny square pattern. It’s bright, bold, and cheerful, and I’m excited to share it with you!

• Why this pattern?
• Pattern notes
• Modern heart granny square pattern
• Heart granny variations to try

Why this pattern?

I’m not the first person to come up with a pattern for granny squares featuring a heart. There are loads out there, and a surprising number of possible approaches. I came up with this one specifically to go with my star granny square pattern. I wanted it to be:

• As solid and free from gaps as possible.
• Include 4 colors.
• Measure 4⅓ inches by 4⅓ inches when worked in worsted weight yarn on a size 7 hook.
• Bold and modern looking.
• And ideally, have the heart inside a pentagon, inside a square.

I’m pretty happy I’ve succeeded with the first four criteria, but the fifth is perhaps a little questionable! Nonetheless, the first, fourth, and fifth rows are exactly the same as for the star squares, so the proportions of the two designs combine really well together for projects with a combined heart and star motif.

I’m hoping to eventually turn all my squares into a bright and beautiful granny square cardigan. But hearts and stars are also a perfect pairing for unisex baby blankets, and cheerful sofa throws.

Pattern notes

This pattern uses standard U.S. crochet terms.

If made in worsted weight yarn on a size 7 (4.5mm) hook, it should measure about 4⅓ x 4⅓ inches (11 x 11cm) after blocking. You can make small adjustments to the size by using a smaller or larger hook. And you can make more significant changes to the size by working the final round in single crochet stitch rather than double crochet, or by adding additional rounds following the solid granny square formula. Of course you can always make the squares in a different weight of yarn and a suitably sized hook, too!

The pattern is worked in four colors, but you could stick to two or three if your prefer. Since the square is worked entirely in flat stitches, you really need to change color at least once between rounds 2 and 3, or the heart won’t stand out.

The pattern is symmetrical, and the pattern for the second half of each round is simply the reverse of the first half. So in the diagrams accompanying the pattern, I’ve only set out the details for the first half of each round.

Modern heart granny square pattern

Make a magic circle to start.

Round 1

Ch 3, dc 14 into the mc, sl st into the top of the ch 3.

Round 2

Ch 2, dc into the same space, tr 3 into the next space, dc 2 into the next space, hdc 4, (dc 1, tr 1, dc 1) into the next space, hdc 4, dc 2 into the next space, tr 3 into the next space, and (dc 1, ch 2, sl st) into the final space.

Here’s a diagram of where all those stitches are going – I’ve already work the ch 2 at the beginning, to create a bit of space for the arrows!

And here’s how it will look when you’re done:

Now cut your yarn and weave in the ends. Join your second yarn color into the top of the treble crochet at your heart’s point. Right here:

Round 3

Ch 2 (counts as 1 sc) and sc 1 into the same space. Hdc 1, dc 2 into the next space, dc 4, (dc 1, hdc 1) into the next space, hdc 1, sc 1, hdc 1, hdc 2 into the next space, dc 1. Dc 1 into top of the ch 2 from the previous round.

Now tr 2 into the space between the ch3 and final dc of round 1, as indicated by the little yellow star:

Dc into the top of the ch 2 from the previous round. Hdc 2 into the next space, hdc 1, sc 1, hdc 1, (hdc 1, dc 2) into the next space, dc 4, dc 2 into the next space, hdc 1. Sc1 into the next space – which should be the same space you started in. Sl st into the top of the ch 2 from the beginning of the round.

Cut your yarn and weave in the ends. You see the two treble crochets at the top of your heart? Join the next color of yarn into the one on the left.

Round 4

Ch 2 (counts as 1 sc), sc 1 into the same space. Hdc 1, dc 2, (tr 1, ch 2, tr 1) into the next space. Dc 1, hdc 1, sc 2, hdc 2, dc 2, (tr 1, ch 2, tr 1) into the next space. Hdc 1, sc 6, hdc 1, (tr 1, ch 2, tr 1) into the next space. Dc 2, hdc 2, sc 2, hdc 1, dc 1, (tr 1, ch 2, tr 1) into the next space. Dc 2, hdc 1, sl st into ch 2.

You should now have a broadly square shape, with 10 stitches along each side, and 2 chains at each corner. Cut your yarn and weave in the ends. Join your final color in any of the corner spaces.

Round 5

Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and 2 ch). Dc 2 into the same corner space. *Dc 10 along the side, (dc 2, ch 2, dc 2) into the next corner space* three times. Dc 10, dc into corner space, sl st into 3rd st of the ch 5.

Done! Cut your yarn and weave in the ends for a final time. Now block it to make your sides straight and your corners sharp, and hey presto, you’ve done it. Here’s how the finished result looks before and after blocking:

Heart granny variations to try

There are lots of other ways to make heart granny squares too. For example:

• Try following this pattern, but with just the heart in a contrast color. A blanket of red and pink hearts on a white background is especially kitsch and effective!
• Finish at the end of round 2, and use your heart as an applique embellishment on a solid granny square.
• Pick out a heart on a single color granny square using bobble stitch.
• Use color work to pick out a pixelated heart on a traditional granny square.

Modern Heart Granny Square Pattern – Summary

I hope you found this pattern easy to follow, and you’re going to give it a go. I’ll let you know how my cardigan turns out, when I’ve made enough of these grannies to start assembling it. Please also let us know what project you’ll be using your squares for, in the comments box down below.

The post Modern Heart Granny Square Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

I love crocheting in bright colors, and circles inside granny squares are a fun, eye-catching, and deceptively simple way to play with pattern. I used contrasting curves and straight lines for this blanket, which as you know has been a staple of textile pattern design forever, because it never fails to be interesting to look at. Making a granny square with a single circle, or rows of concentric circles inside could hardly be easier, and I find it’s a great way of using up yarn scraps too. With this super quick pattern, you’ll be whipping them up in no time just like me!

• Pattern tips
• Mini circle granny square pattern
• Concentric circles granny square pattern

Pattern tips

Making circles inside granny squares is a brilliant way to use up yarn scraps leftover from other projects. You can turn them into items like pillow covers, tote bags, and pouches for cell phones, cosmetics or stationery supplies.

Whenever you’re using up yarn like this, and if you have electronic kitchen scales, try weighing your first circle before you turn it into a square. Then you’ll be able to tell if you have enough remaining yarn to make another circle by weighing it first. This will spare you from playing and losing too many games of yarn chicken!

These patterns are all written in standard U.S. terms, The granny squares in the photos are all made with DK yarn on a size G/6 (4mm) hook.

Mini circle granny square pattern

These dinky squares are as cute as a button, and ideal for smaller projects or using up very short yarn scraps. They measure about 3” across when made with DK yarn, and about 4” across when made with worsted yarns.

Magic circle to start.

• Round 1. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), dc 11 into the magic circle, sl st into top of the ch 3. 12 sts.
• Round 2. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), dc 1 into the same space, dc 2 into all the remaining spaces, sl st into the top of the ch 3. 24 sts. Cut yarn and join with 2nd color.
• Round 3. Ch 5 (counts as 2 ch and 1 dc), dc 1 into the same space, hdc 1, sc 1, sl st, sc 1, hdc 1, (dc 1, ch 2, dc 1) into same space* 3 times, hdc 1, sc 1, sl st, sc 1, hdc 1, sl st into 3rd ch.
• Round 4. Ch 5 (counts as 2 ch and 1 dc), dc 2 into the corner space, *dc 7, (dc 2, ch 2, dc 2) into the next corner space* 3 times, dc 7, dc1 into corner space, sl st into 3rd ch. Cut yarn and weave in ends.

Concentric circles granny square pattern

These circles are a bit bigger, which means a slightly different formula for turning them into squares when you get to round 5. I love them with a single color change between rows 3 and 4, for a kind of halo effect around the edge of the circle. But of course you can change colors as many times as you like, or at a different position.

Magic circle to start

• Round 1. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), dc 11 into the magic circle, sl st into top of the ch 3. 12 sts.
• Round 2. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), dc 1 into the same space, dc 2 into all the remaining spaces, sl st into the top of the ch 3. 24 sts.
• Round 3. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), inc, *dc 1, inc* 11 times, sl st into the top of the ch 3. 36 sts.
• Round 4. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), dc 1, inc, *dc 2, inc* 11 times, sl st into the top of the ch 3. 48 sts. Change color.
• Round 5. Ch 6 (counts as 1 tr and 2 ch), tr 2 into same space, *dc 2, hdc 2, sc 3, hdc 2, dc 2, (tr 2, ch 2, tr 2)* three times, dc 2, hdc 2, sc 3, hdc 2, dc 2, tr 1 into corner space, sl st to 4th st of ch 6. Now you have a square with 15 stitches on each side, plus corner spaces.
• Round 6. Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and 2 ch) dc 2 into the corner space, *dc 15, (dc 2, ch 2, dc 2) into the next corner space* 3 times, dc 15, dc1 into corner space, sl st into 3rd ch. Cut yarn and weave in ends.

Circle Granny Square Variations

These were two simple, solid granny squares featuring circles. But they’re not the only way to mix the round and square. Take a look at Lucy’s sun granny square pattern for a more lacy take, or add a circle motif to a regular solid granny square using surface crochet. This article on bobble stitch granny squares also includes a beautifully tactile single-color square with a circle of bobbles in it. And finally, don’t miss this guide to crocheting circles and spheres generally. Once you have the confidence to understand how they’re made, there’s nothing to stop you designing your own patterns!

And finally, let us know how you’ll use your circle granny squares in the comments box down below.

The post Bright Circle Granny Square Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

I defy you not to see a patchwork of brightly colored star granny squares and not have your spirits lifted! This motif is slightly trickier than your average granny square design. In fact if you look closely enough at the squares above, you’ll spot that I tried several different approaches before settling on a pattern I’m totally happy with (top left!). Now I’ve got a thoroughly counted-out tutorial for you with lots of illustrations, so that you can make a sparkling constellation of solid star grannies too!

• Making star granny squares
• The pattern
• Variations to try

This also goes beautifully with my circle and heart granny square designs, if you fancy making up a combination!

Making star granny squares

If like me you love bright, modern crochet designs, then incorporating stars into your next granny square project is a no-brainer. They look great on blankets, throw pillows, and over-sized statement sweaters. This particular pattern is good and solid – there aren’t any finger snagging holes to worry about, besides the ones at the corners of most granny square designs.

4, 5, and 6 point stars

This pattern is for a granny square with a 5-pointed star motif in the center. I’ve tried other star shapes and I’m here to report that stars with 4 points don’t look enough like stars, stars with 6 points just look like flowers!

Of course, the downside for making a granny square with a 5-pointed star in it, is that at some point you’re going to have to turn a 10-sided shape into a 4-sided shape. And that is not easy stitch math. But a lot of trial and error has led me to this solution, and I’m really happy with it. Be ready to pause your movie or audiobook when you get there though, and pay close attention for a moment!

Color changes

You’ll need at least two colors to make this star granny square pattern. It’s worked entirely in flat stitches, so the star isn’t going to stand out unless you make it in a different color to the background. As you can see, I’ve gone for a mix of saturated brights and fresh pastel shades, and changed color twice for the background too. I’m definitely going for a maximalist, more-is-more vibe with these squares! But star squares look just as good in neutrals for a sweet and timeless baby blanket. You can even make the center of your star a different color to the points – two different shades of yellow look especially effective.

Star granny square pattern

This pattern uses standard U.S. crochet terms. The actual instructions are in bold, with notes in non-bolded text, so you can pick out the most important bits easily second time round. The example in the pictures is made with worsted weight yarn on a size 7 (4.5mm) crochet hook. It’s finished dimensions after blocking are 4⅓ inches by 4⅓ inches.

We’ve got a guide to all the basic stitches here. Don’t worry if you’re not familiar with the tr2tog instruction, I’ll explain it fully when we get there!

Round 1

Magic circle to start. Ch 3 (represents 1 dc), dc 14 into mc, sl st to join.

Round 2

*Ch 6, then working back along that chain from the hook: skip 2 sts, sc into the 3rd st, hdc into the 4th st, dc into the 5th st, tr into the 6th st. Skip 2 sts from round 1, and sl st into the 3rd st.* Repeat 4 times.

The star part of your square is complete! Cut your yarn, and weave in the ends.

Round 3

Join with your 2nd color at the base of a treble stitch from round 2. Along your star’s edges, the 2nd loop for joining your yarn and making stitches into is tucked almost tucked right around the back. It helps to look at your star side-on as you make the 3rd round, so you don’t miss them!

Ch 4 (represents 1 tr). *Dc, hdc, sc. Skip the 2 ch sts at the tip of the point, then sc, hdc, dc. Using the remaining st, and the first st from the base of the next point (but skipping the sl st between them) tr2tog*. Repeat 4 times, but instead of making a tr2tog at the end of the final repeat, tr 1 and sl st into the top of the ch 4 at the beginning of the round. Cut your yarn and weave in the ends.

Here’s a diagram of where all those stitches are going. It helps to remember that the type of stitch your making matches the stitch you’re making it into. You’re making treble crochets into the base and top of the treble crochets from round 2, double crochets into the base and top of the double crochets, and so on.

During this round, the points of your stars will end up slightly tucked behind the new stitches. This is intentional and it’s actually going to make the points look really sharp. Don’t worry either if the edges of your work is a bit bowl-shaped at the end of this round, it’s going to flatten out again before the end!

Tr2tog

If you’re unfamiliar with the instruction tr2tog, it’s simply a way of making two treble crochet stitches that are separate at the bottom, and joined at the top. It’s worked like this

• Yarn over twice.
• Insert hook into the top of the first stitch, yarn over and draw through a loop. 4 loops on hook.
• Yarn over and draw through 2 loops. 3 loops on hook.
• Yarn over and draw through 2 loops. 2 loops on hook.
• Yarn over.
• Insert hook into the top of the second stitch, yarn over and draw through a loop. 4 loops on hook.
• Yarn over and draw through 2 loops. 3 loops on hook.
• Yarn over and draw through 2 loops. 2 loops on hook.
• Yarn over and draw through both loops.

Round 4

Join with your 3rd color into one of the single crochets from round 3 that straddles the tip of a point on your star.

Now we’re going to turn your pentagon into a square. The stitch pattern is symmetrical, so the second half of the round is the same as the first half, but in reverse.

Ch 2 (represents 1 sc), sc 1 into the same space. Hdc 1, dc 2, (tr 1, ch 2, tr 1) into one space, dc 1, hdc 1.

Progress check: the next stitch should be over the next point of your star.

Sc 2, hdc 2, dc 2, (tr 1, ch 2, tr 1) into one space.

Progress check: the next stitch should be over the next point of your star.

Hdc 1, sc 6.

The 3rd & 4th sc fall either side of the half way mark, meaning the 4th sc onwards will repeat everything you’ve already done, but in reverse. The next stitch should be over the tip of the next point on your star.

Hdc 1, (tr 1, ch 2, tr 1) into one space, dc 2, hdc 2, sc 1.

Progress check: the next stitch should be over the final point of your star.

Sc1, hdc1, dc 1, (tr 1, ch 2, tr 1) into one space, dc 2, hdc 1, sl st into top of ch2 to join.

You should now have a square with 10 stitch spaces along each side, and 2 chains at the corner spaces.

Top tip: If you tend to have too many stitches on the side of your pentagon where your 3rd round started and ended, simply use an invisible decrease to pick up the extra stitch.

Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.

Round 5

Join your 5th color at any corner.

Ch 5 (represents 1 dc and 2 ch), dc 2 into corner space, *dc 10, (dc 2, ch 2, dc 2) into corner space* 3 times, dc 10, dc 1 into corner space and sl st into 3rd st of the ch 5 to join. Cut yarn and weave in ends.

And you’ve done it! These grannies really do look best if you take a bit of time to block them out so they lie really flat and the sides are nice and straight.

I love how sharp the points of the star turn out!

Variations to try

My star granny pattern is pretty unfussy. I knew I wanted to play with lots of bright colors, and produce something quite modern-looking that had as few holes in it as possible. If you’d like to try something little bit different, you could:

1. Try one of the many patterns online that incorporate open spaces and lacy stitches.
2. Use bobble stitch to make a single-color granny square with a raised star motif.
3. Follow rounds 1 and 2 of this pattern to make a star shape that you can use as an applique patch on a solid granny square.

Are you going to give it a go?

My plan is to eventually accumulate enough of these squares to make my first granny square cardigan. What will you do with yours? Let us know in the comments box down below!

The post Star Granny Square appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

A solid granny square is a classic and time-honored choice for blankets, cardigans and scarves. Being relatively free from gaps between the stitches, it’s pretty much perfect for anything where warmth or dense coverage is a priority. Solid granny squares are also a reliable favorite for fancy color work, because you can carry one color inside the stitches of another, without cutting the yarn and creating lots of ends to weave in. Best of all, solid grannies are quick and easy to make. So they’re suitable for both beginners, and more experienced crocheters looking for a satisfying project that doesn’t demand too much concentration.

• How to make a simple solid granny square
• Two ways to handle corners
• Half double crochet grannies
• More gap-free stitches for making granny squares

Why choose a solid granny square pattern

Solid granny squares are dense and warm. They’re ideal for winter blankets and throws, scarves and cosy cardigans. They’re also a good choice for granny square throw pillow covers, because the case underneath won’t show through much. Solid squares have some practical advantages too. When it comes to making a baby blanket, lots of people try to avoid gappy crochet stitches because babies may get their fingers caught in the holes. And solid squares are the perfect solution.

You can also make cool complex designs like stars in solid granny square patterns, or swap colors back and forth for a diagonal effect!

How to make a simple solid granny square

The classic solid granny square is worked in double crochet (English treble crochet). It’s one of the first things I made when I took up crochet, and it really is one of the most beginner-friendly patterns you can possibly try. Even when you have a bit more experience under your belt, solid granny squares are fabulously meditative and therapeutic. They’re the perfect thing to make in between more complex projects, for a bit of a brain-break. Let them accumulate in a spare tote bag or shoe box, and when it’s full, join them together.

Here’s the pattern:

• Magic circle to start.
• Round 1: Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and 2 corner chains), *dc 3, ch 2* three times, dc 2, sl st into the 3rd chain to join.
• Round 2: Ch 5, dc 2 into corner space, *dc into the next 3 stitches, (dc 2, ch2 , dc 2) into the next corner space* three times, dc into the next 3 stitches, dc into the final corner space, sl st into the 3rd chain to join.
• Round 3 onwards: Ch 5 , dc 2 into corner space, dc into all stitches along the first side, (dc 2, ch2 , dc 2) into the next corner space, *dc into all stitches along the next side, (dc 2, ch2 , dc 2) into the next corner space* twice, dc along the final side, dc 2 into corner space and join with a slip stitch to the 3rd chain.

Just in case any of those abbreviations were unfamiliar:

• Ch Chain
• Dc Double crochet (English treble crochet)
• Sl st Slip stitch

Two ways to handle corners

The basic solid granny square is already pretty opaque, but it does have diagonal rows of holes running from the center to the corners. They’re created by working the four double crochet into the corner spaces, and you can’t close them completely because those four stitches are need to allow your square to grow! But there is a nifty trick for making the holes more discreet. Rather than making the double crochet stitches into the chain spaces at each corner, make them into the top loops of chain stitches instead. So the corners go:

• Dc 2 into the first chain stitch.
• Ch 2.
• Dc 2 into the second chain stitch.

Here’s how that looks on the right, compared to a classic solid square, on the left:

The difference is subtle, but perceptible. I used this corner technique for the blanket in this photo, and I would say that wiggling a crochet hook into chain stitches rather than aiming through a big ol’ corner space definitely slows your down a bit. But I’m happy with how it turned out, and I haven’t ruled out using it again!

Half double crochet grannies

Another alternative to the classic double crochet solid square is a half double crochet (hdc) granny square. This stitch is even denser and squashier than double crochet, for luxuriously plush crochet squares.

Since half double crochet stitches are shorter and wider than double crochet stitches, there’s one important difference in this pattern: you’ll be skipping the first stitch on each side of the square. If you try to fit an hdc into every stitch on every side, the outline of your square will end up distorted and won’t sit flat.

• Magic circle to start.
• Round 1: Ch 4, (counts as 1 hdc and 2 corner chains), *hdc 3, ch 2* three times, hdc 2, sl st into the 2nd chain to join.
• Round 2: Ch 4, hdc 2 into corner space, skip the top of the first stitch on the next side, and hdc into the remaining 2, *(hdc 2, ch 2, hdc 2) into the corner space, skip the top of the first stitch on the next side, and hdc into the remaining 2* three times, hdc into corner space and slip stitch into the 2nd chain to join.
• Round 3 onwards: Ch 4, hdc into the corner space, skip the top of the first stitch on the next side, and hdc into the remaining stitches, *(hdc 2, ch 2, hdc 2) into the corner space, skip the top of the first stitch on the next side, and hdc into the remaining stitches* three times, hdc into corner space and slip stitch into the 2nd chain to join.

Here’s how a solid half double crochet square with four rounds (on the right) compares to a traditional solid granny square made with four rounds of double crochet (on the left). As you can see the hdc square is significantly smaller, so you’ll have to work for longer to cover the same surface area. But for a really special project that you want to feel luxurious, substantial and hard wearing, I think it’s worth it.

Incorporating more than one color

One of the most popular uses for solid granny squares is making two-tone squares with a diagonal divide. These can then be joined in beautiful and timeless Navajo star patterns. This video contains a clear step-by-step tutorial for carrying two colors of yarn in a solid square:

More gap-free stitches for making granny squares

The three patterns in this article are all takes on a simple, flat, solid granny square. But there are more flamboyant ways to make opaque squares with minimal gaps between the stitches. Here are five solid stitches that lend themselves to making dense granny squares with great insulating properties:

• Linen stitch (a.k.a. moss stitch)
• Bean stitch and its little cousin Mini Bean stitch
• Waffle stitch
• Bobble stitch
• Star stitch

Summary

Solid granny squares make the warmest blankets. And since they’re relatively free from holes, they don’t tend to snag on things. They’re very simple to make, but nonetheless impressively versatile. I think if I could only ever use solid granny squares again, it would be a long time before I got bored or ran out of uses for them! Let us know what project you have in mind using the comments box down below. Happy making!

The post Solid Granny Square appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

The shell stitch granny square can be a fiddly challenge at first, but it’s more than worth the effort! A single shell stitch granny square makes an attractive coaster, place mat or pot stand. Or if you keep working outwards for long enough, a beautiful blanket with an attractive scalloped border. Alternatively, multiple shell stitch squares can be pieced together using the join-as-you-go method, to achieve a decorative tiled effect. The appearance of shell stitch grannies also changes dramatically depending on where you make color changes. So if you’re keen to flex your crochet muscles and experiment with something a little out of the ordinary, this is the perfect pattern to try!

• Choosing a yarn and getting started
• How to make a shell stitch granny square
• When to stop
• Playing with color

Choosing a yarn and getting started

Shell stitches are pretty, versatile clusters of double crochet, joined at the bottom but not at the top. There are several popular shell stitch variations that can be adapted to making granny squares, by working them outwards from the center, rather than in rows. In this article I’m going to focus on using classic shell stitch (also known as the solid shell stitch). It’s a lovely, dense crochet stitch without many gaps or holes – perfect for coasters that don’t let drips through, and blankets that don’t let heat out! Here are a couple of notes before you get started:

• Choose a relatively smooth yarn for shell grannies, since their impact is all in the layout of your stitches. You don’t want that detail getting lost in a haze of fuzz!
• Each row of shells is made by adding two rounds of stitches.
• The first four rounds require a bit of concentration and counting the first time you make them. After that, the underlying pattern is easy to follow, and there’s something quite pleasing and mindful about it.
• There are a couple of techniques that you don’t often see in granny squares, but I’ve got lots of detailed photos to help you follow them.
• If you’ll be joining your squares, stop one row before they reach the desired size, so you can join them later – we’ll come back to this later!

How to make a shell stitch granny square

This pattern uses standard American crochet terms and abbreviations.

• Ch = Chain
• Ch sp = Chain space
• Dc = Double crochet
• Sc = Single crochet
• Sl st = Slip stitch

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches. Ch 4 (which represents 1 dc, and 1 ch), *dc, ch* seven times, sl st into 3rd link of the ch 4 to join.

Round 2

Ch 1. Working into the chain spaces only, *sc into the next space, dc 7 into the following space* four times. Sl st into first sc to join.

Round 3

Ch 4. (Dc, ch 3, dc, ch, dc, ch 5) into the same sc you slip stitched into at the end of round 2. (Dc, ch, dc, ch 3, dc, ch, dc, ch 5) into the next 2 sc. Into the final sc: dc, ch, dc, ch 3, dc, ch, dc, ch 2 (not 5!). Join by making a dc into the 2nd link of the ch 4.

Here’s a diagram of where all those stitches are going. The round starts at the star, and works counterclockwise:

And here’s how it going to look once you’ve made it:

Take a quick look at that join, and how it bridges the final gap using two chains and one double crochet, rather than 5 chains and a slip stitch. It’s a bit unusual, and fairly unique to granny squares made from shell stitch. But it means your next round starts right above the center of a shell. Clever, huh?

Round 4

Ch 1. Sc into the top of the 4th dc of the shell from round 2 – make sure you work your stitch around the post of the dc that joined round 3 as well. Dc 7 into the ch 4 space from round 3. Sc into the ch 3 space. Dc 7 into the next ch space. Sc into the top of the 4th dc of the next shell from round 2. Make sure you catch the ch 5 from round 3 in your stitch. *Dc 7 into ch 1 sp, sc into ch 3 sp, dc 7 into ch 1 sp, sc into the 4th dc of the next shell* twice more. Dc 7 into ch 1 sp, sc into ch 3 sp, dc 7 into ch 1 sp. Sl st into the chain stitch from the start of the round to join.

Here’s a diagram of where to place those stitches. Remember, start at the star, and work counterclockwise.

There’s a real mix of inserting your hook into the top loops of previous stitches, and into chain spaces, so pay close attention to that at first. It will all come very easily in another couple of rounds! Here’s a picture of how round 4 looks when it’s done:

Round 5

Ch 4. (Dc, ch 5) into the first sc you made in round 4. *(Dc, ch, dc, ch 3, dc, ch, dc, ch 5) into the next sc, and (dc, ch, dc, ch 5) into the sc after that* three times. (Dc, ch, dc, ch 3, dc, ch, dc, ch 2) into the final sc, and join with a dc to the 2nd link of the ch 4.

Here’s another visual representation of where all those stitches are going:

And here’s how they’ll look:

Round 6

Hopefully you can see the pattern forming now!

For the next round, and all the following even-numbered rounds:

• Ch 1.
• Sc into the central stitch of the shell below.
• Dc 7 into all the ch 1 spaces.
• Sc into the center of all the previous shells, catching the ch 5’s as you go.
• Sc into the ch 3 corner spaces.
• And sl st into the first ch to join.

Like this:

Round 7

My square is about 4″ across now, which I think is about the perfect size. But for a round 7, and all following odd-numbered rounds:

• Ch 4.
• (Dc, ch 5) into the first sc from the previous round.
• (Dc, ch, dc, ch 5) into the sc stitches on the sides (with a deep indent).
• (Dc, ch, dc, ch 3, dc, ch, dc, ch 5) into the sc at the corners (with a shallow indent).
• And finish by working ch 2, joining with a dc into the 2nd link of the ch 4.

When to stop

For single-square projects, like coasters, place mats, pot rests, and blankets made in one continuous square, finish whenever your project reaches the size you want it to be. You can:

• Finish on an even-numbered row, and your work will already have a perfect scalloped edge with a gorgeously vintage feel.
• Or finish on an odd-numbered row, if you want a foundation for working a different type of border (I’m not sure why you would do this though!

If you’re making a blanket from lots of squares, you’ll need to stop making each one a row before they’re ‘done’. Shell stitch grannies don’t really lend themselves to being sewn together, and you’ll need to use the join-as-you-go technique when you work your final round. This can be an odd- or even-numbered round, and you can see the method for both in this video:

Playing with color

Finally, where you make your color changes in a shell stitch granny square makes a big difference to how it looks. And I just want to show you that.

In the square on the left, I changed colors after rounds 2 and 4. In other words, I worked one odd-numbered row and one even-numbered row in the same color before changing. This produces a really clean, bold result. In the square on the right, I worked the odd-numbered rounds in dark red (except round 1) and the even-numbered rows in lighter colors. Picking out the odd numbered rows in a contrasting color produces a much more visually intricate design, which is very traditional for shell stitch granny square projects.

Shell stitch granny square – summary

Shell stitch granny squares can be simple and bold, or detailed and highly decorative. They make a very different impact depending on how big you make them, where you change color, and how you join them together. But even a lone 4″ square is beautiful, and can work by itself as a drinks coaster or mat. And that isn’t something that can be said for many types of granny square! Let us know how you’ll use your in the comments box down below.

The post Shell Stitch Granny Square appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.