Farm Animals Archives - Lucy Kate Crochet

I Crocheted a Piglet – Free Amigurumi Pattern

Lucy Kate — Fri, 22 Mar 2024 17:37:48 +0000

I crocheted a piglet, and I literally can’t wait to share it with you. My new more realistic crochet piglet design is a big step away from my previous cartoony amigurumi pig pattern from several years back. Although I still love the original, this one takes it up a notch.

You’ll find this crochet piglet pattern completely beginner friendly, and quick to create. The perfect new amigurumi project for a novice, or speedy gift idea for a regular crocheter to put together in just a few hours.

What you’ll need.
Pattern tips and techniques.
My free crochet piglet pattern.

Your Equipment Checklist

3.5mm crochet hook
50g Rico aran cotton yarn*, dark pink
25g Rico aran cotton yarn*, light pink
Dark brown yarn scrap
Tapestry needle*
Toy stuffing*
10mm safety eyes*

Abbreviations and Techniques

sc – single crochet
2sc – two single crochets into one stitch
sc2tog – one single crochet joins two stitches
BLO – stitch into the back loop only
cc – color change
ch – chain
sk – skip the next stitch

My Free Crochet Piglet Pattern

You’ll work the head and body as one piece, then sew the ears, tail and legs on afterwards.

The Head and Body

Work with your 3.5mm crochet hook and dark pink yarn.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 4

BLO 1sc x 18

cc light pink

Round 5 – 6

1sc x 18

Round 7

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 9 (21)

Round 8

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 9 (24)

Round 9

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 9 (27)

Round 10

(1sc x 5, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 9 (30)

Round 11

(1sc x 6, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 9 (33)

Round 12

(1sc x 7, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 9 (36)

Round 13 – 16

1sc x 36

Round 17

(1sc x 4, sc2tog) x 6 (30)

Round 18

1sc x 30

Round 19

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 6 (24)

Round 20

1sc x 24

Round 21

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 6 (30)

Round 22

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 6 (36)

Insert the safety eyes, and tie the backs together to indent them into the head slightly. Stuff your piglet so far.

Round 23 – 40

1sc x 36

Round 41

(1sc x 4, sc2tog) x 6 (30)

Round 42

1sc x 30

Round 43

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 6 (24)

Round 44

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 6 (18)

Fill with toy stuffing

Round 45

(1sc, sc2tog) x 6 (12)

Round 46

sc2tog x 6, then hand sew to close.

Four Legs

Begin in your dark link yarn with your 3.5mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches (8)

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

BLO 1sc x 16 (16)

Round 4

1sc x 16

cc light pink

Round 5 – 8

1sc x 16

FIll each leg with toy stuffing, and then sew the open end onto the underside of your piglet. Position them at each end of the body, they should sit flush next to each other in pairs. .

Two Ears

Your piglet’s crochet ears will be made in the light pink yarn only.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of five stitches (5)

Round 2 – 3

1sc x 5

Round 4

2sc x 5 (10)

Round 5 – 7

1sc x 10

Round 8

(1sc, 2sc) x 5 (15)

Round 9

1sc x 15

Do not stuff your piglet’s ears, instead flatten them and sew onto the top of the head.

Crocheting Your Piglet’s Tail

Ch20, sk, then 1sc into every remaining stitch.

Tie off leaving a long tail, attach your yarn needle and sew the tail into the center of the closing point of your crochet piglet’s body.

Finishing Details

To finish off your cute crochet piglet pattern, attach a scrap of dark brown yarn to your needle.

Weave back and forth in the face to create two nostrils, spanning across two stitches vertically either side of your original nose magic circle.

Tie off and hide the loose end, then move onto the trotters.

Weave twice through the starting magic circle of each foot, around to the color change level of the darker pink. This will give the suggestion of separate trotters on your amigurumi piggy feet.

*The products linked in this pattern were carefully selected by Lucy Kate Crochet. If you decide to purchase using the links provided, we may earn a small commission on that sale. This is at no extra cost to you.

The post I Crocheted a Piglet – Free Amigurumi Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

13 Awesome Free Crochet Farm Animal Patterns

Lucy Kate — Wed, 06 Mar 2024 20:53:27 +0000

My crochet farm animal patterns are beginner friendly, but are hooked up in their own style with a variety of techniques for you to try out. Great fun for novice and advanced crocheters alike!

You’ll be crocheting in increasing and decreasing rounds, working from a magic loop for most of the designs. But you’ll love how some of my amigurumi farm animals spring to life with a dash of extra surface crochet or a little hand sewing.

The Cart Horse

A newer addition to my crochet farm is this curly cart horse. Based around that classic teddy shape, but with some seriously equine details.

Grab some DK yarn in brown and cream, your 3.5mm crochet hook, 16mm safety eyes, stuffing, a yarn needle and those all important stitch markers.

The full free pattern is here.

Amigurumi Donkey

Born from the crochet horse pattern, my donkey is genuinely one of my favorite designs. I added a bunch of extra detail with hand sewing and surface crocheting techniques.

You will need gray, cream and brown DK yarn, along with the same kit as you would use for the horse above.

Find the donkey pattern here.

Crochet Goat Pattern

My amigurumi goat is small, delicate and packed with personality. A classic member of the crochet farm animal patterns, it’s surprisingly quick and easy to make. I’ve also given you a video with some information on the design and tips for bringing it together.

You’ll need cream and gray DK yarns, a 3.75mm crochet hook, yarn needle, some toy stuffing and safety eyes.

Check out the free amigurumi goat pattern here.

Crocheting a Highland Cow

I’m a little obsessed with my crochet Highland Cow. One of the larger toys I’ve crocheted, it is packed with character as well as cuddly cuteness. The pattern is suitable for beginners and the unusual hairstyle gives it plenty of charm.

You’ll need a 5mm and 4mm crochet hook, some chunky yarn in red and oat shades, and some worsted weight cream yarn. Grab your safety eyes, toy safe stuffing a yarn needle and stitch markers and you’ll be good to go!

Check out the free crochet Highland Cow pattern here.

My Amigurumi Llama

The beginner friendly crocheted llama is one of my smallest and fasted toys to put together. You’ll not need any color changes, and the stitches are all basic level.

You’ll need a 4.5mm crochet hook, some aran weight cream yarn, a couple of safety eyes, a yarn needle and of course some toy stuffing.

Check out the free crochet llama pattern here.

How to Crochet an Alpaca

The perfect match to my crochet llama is his alpaca friend. It’s a great starter amigurumi project, and the only part that will take a little time is crocheting his gorgeous curls. But you’ll have fun doing it!
You’ll need your 4.5mm and 4mm crochet hooks, a yarn needle, some aran weight cream blend yarn, safety eyes and toy stuffing.

Check out my free alpaca pattern here.

Crochet Texas Longhorn Pattern

My crochet Texas Longhorn is easy to crochet, and produces a big, squishy, huggable pal. You’ll find plenty of detail in the pattern to guide you along each step, and for a sturdy cow, she won’t take too long to crochet either.

You’ll need pink, brown and gray cotton aran weight yarn, and some worsted weight white yarn. Use your 4mm crochet hook, and have plenty of toy stuffing, a yarn needle, safety eyes and some stitch markers ready.

Check out the free cow crochet pattern here.

Amigurumi Sheep Pattern

I adore my scruffy crocheted sheep, and although it’s rich in detail you don’t need to be an advanced crocheter to create your own. You’ll build the body parts with single crochets worked from magic loops, and the woolly coat is just single crochets worked into long chains.

You’ll need some white and pale brown worsted weight cotton blend yarns, your 4mm crochet hook, safety eyes, a tapestry needle and some toy stuffing.

Check out the free amigurumi sheep design here.

Crocheting a Goose

This crochet goose is a quick project for a relatively experienced crocheter. You avoid color changes by using a variegated yarn type, and all the stitches are beginner friendly too.

You’ll need orange and graphite DK yarns, a 3.75mm and 2.25mm crochet hook, safety eyes, toy stuffing and a good needle.

Check out the free amigurumi goose pattern here.

My Amigurumi Pig

My pig pattern is incredibly beginner friendly, with a sweet, simple, fast design that any new or old crocheter can enjoy.

You’ll need pink (of course!) yarn and a splash of black DK yarn for the markings. You’ll be using your 4.5mm crochet hook, and needle a little toy stuffing, some eyes, and your yarn needle too.

Check out the free pig pattern here.

Crochet Red Squirrel

The little red squirrel has a distinctive posture and fluffy tail, which you can brush up even more if you like to change up the texture. You’ll use simple techniques to create a very characterful crochet farm friend.

You’ll need your 5mm crochet hook, tapestry needle, some red aran yarn, scraps of dark yarn for the nose and fingers, as well as safety eyes, stuffing and a brush for the tail

Check out the free crochet squirrel pattern here.

Wild Rabbit Crochet Pattern

One of my more recent designs, the crocheted rabbit is a perfect addition to any crochet farm. She’s fast to hook up, and easy to make. Remember to join those safety eyes together at the back to give her face the cutest possible expression.

You’ll need your 4mm crochet hook, yarn needle and a slicker brush. Grab some brown and pink aran weight yarns, and a wool based white DK yarn too.

Check out the free amigurumi rabbit instructions here.

My Crocheted Red Fox

The fox is a farmyard staple, albeit an often unwelcome one! Complete your farmyard animal crochet collection with this easy design, which will take you through in stages and might even increase your amigurumi skillset as you go.

You’ll need your 6mm and 3.5mm crochet hooks, some black and cream DK yarn, as well as some chunky orange yarn. Make sure you’ve also got stitch markers, stuffing, safety eyes and your yarn needle too.

Check out my free fox design here.

The post 13 Awesome Free Crochet Farm Animal Patterns appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Free Wild Rabbit Crochet Pattern

Lucy Kate — Mon, 04 Mar 2024 16:55:16 +0000

This free rabbit crochet pattern is beginner friendly and easy to follow. It works up pretty quickly, and you’ll have fun making your own cute amigurumi bunny.

Here’s what you’ll need.
Pattern notes and techniques.
Free crochet rabbit pattern.

And when you’re done, you can make lots of buddies for him when you check out my farmyard creature collection!

Your Equipment List

Here’s what you’ll need to crochet your wild rabbit.

4mm crochet hook
Yarn needle*
50g brown aran yarn
20g pink aran yarn
20g white wool DK yarn
Toy safe stuffing*
10mm safety eyes*
Slicker brush (optional)

Your DK yarn will need to be wool based, I used an acrylic wool blend for the brown and a cotton blend for the pink sections.

Pattern Notes

Here are the crochet techniques you will need to create your amigurumi rabbit. You’ll find the meaning of the abbreviations and links to tutorials for stitches and instructions you aren’t familiar with.

sc – single crochet
2sc – make two single crochets into one stitch
sc2tog – use one single crochet to join two stitches together
ch – chain
sk – skip the next stitch
slst – slip stitch

The Free Crochet Rabbit Pattern

You’ll be crocheting your bunny in sections. They’ll all use the 4mm hook, but watch out for instructions on when to swap colors.

Crocheting the Rabbit’s Head

Work the rabbit’s head in your brown yarn.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

1sc x 12 (12)

Round 4

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 5

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 6 (24)

Round 6

1sc x 24 (24)

Round 7

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 6 (30)

Round 8

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 6 (36)

Round 9 – 13

1sc x 36 (36)

Round 14

(1sc x 4, sc2tog) x 6 (30)

Round 15

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 6 (24)

Insert the safety eyes at approximately the round 8 level, in the upper third of the head. Tie the backs together to pull them slightly into the head, then stuff the head so far.

Round 16

1sc x 24 (24)

Round 17

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 6 (18)

Round 18

(1sc, sc2tog) x 6 (12)

Round 19

sc2tog x 6, then hand sew to close.

Sew the Nose

Take your pink yarn, and weave back and forth just above your original magic circle using a needle. Then make a small marking below it to finish the appearance of a small mouth.

Amigurumi Rabbit Ears

The outer ears will be crocheted in brown yarn.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

1sc x 12 (12)

Round 4

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 5 – 12

1sc x 18 (18)

Round 13

(1sc, sc2tog) x 6 (12)

Round 14 – 15

1sc x 12 (12)

Making the Inside of the Ears

Your rabbit’s inner ear section will be crocheted in pink yarn.

Round 1

Ch8

Round 2

Working along and around your chain:

sk, 1sc x 6, 3sc, 1sc x 6

Round 3

Turn

ch1, 1sc x 6, 3sc, 1sc x 7, slst and tie off.

Finishing your crochet rabbit’s ears

Take the original tail from your inner ear’s chain, attach a needle and sew it through the central loops to hide it. Cut off leaving no visible end.

Now using the other tail end of the inner ear section, weave this section onto the brown outer section.

Then with the brown yarn, sew the edges of the brown section of the ear onto the pink to give a slightly raised edge.

The end of the ears can now be sewn onto the top of your crochet rabbit’s head.

Crochet Rabbit’s Body Pattern

Crochet your bunny’s body in brown yarn.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches (8)

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 4 – 5

1sc x 24 (24)

Round 6

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 7 – 16

1sc x 32 (32)

Round 17

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 8 (40)

Round 18 – 20

1sc x 40 (40)

Round 21

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 8 (32)

Round 22

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 8 (24)

Round 23

(1sc, sc2tog) x 8 (16)

Round 24

sc2tog to close, tie off and hide the loose end.

Attaching the head

You can now sew the head onto your body. Weave tightly back and forth to secure the head, with the nose pointing forwards.

Crocheting the Tail

Crochet the tail in white wool yarn, using two strands held and worked together.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3 – 4

1sc x 12 (12)

Fluff it up!

Take the slicker brush (or whatever brush you can find!) and groom the tail to allow it to fluff up.

With your yarn needle and the white yarn, sew the tail onto the back end of your bunny.

Crocheting your Front Legs

All of your rabbit’s legs will be crocheted in brown yarn.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3 – 7

1sc x 12 (12)

Fill the legs to this point.

Round 8 – 9

1sc x 12 (12)

Sew the leg end flat without stuffing it any further.

Mark your planned leg positions with pins to make sure they are even, then hand sew them on approximately six rounds down the body’s original magic circle.

The Back Feet

Your back legs are going to be made in two sections, the feet and the legs. Work both in your brown yarn with the 4mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3 – 6

1sc x 12 (12)

Round 7

1sc x 6, then stop this round and turn your work over.

Round 8

ch1, 1sc x 6.

Fill in the toe end only with stuffing. The open section will be used to attach to the leg.

Crochet Rabbit’s Back Legs

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches (8)

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 4

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 5

1sc x 32 (32)

Round 6

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 8 (24)

Round 7

(1sc, sc2tog) x 8 (16)

Round 8

sc2tog to close, and sew closed.

You can now sew your feet to the legs, and the legs onto the body.

Your Crochet Rabbit Pattern

I designed this crochet rabbit pattern to reflect the adorable wild rabbit, but if you’d like to make it your own feel free to change up the colors and add in some markings too! And don’t forget to let me know how you get along.

Happy Crocheting,

Lucy Kate, x

The post Free Wild Rabbit Crochet Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Crocheting an Amigurumi Alpaca – Free Pattern

Lucy Kate — Sat, 30 Dec 2023 17:48:50 +0000

This crochet alpaca pattern is suitable for beginners to crochet through to amigurumi experts, with no color changes and simple, clear instructions. And it is quicker than you’d think to crochet that curly coat!

Do you have everything you need?
Helpful pattern notes
Your free amigurumi alpaca pattern

I’ve styled this crochet alpaca pattern similarly to my crocheted sheep, with woolly fur, but I’ve added a fun twist to the eyes to give it that classic alpaca expression. You can even crochet your alpaca a llama friend when you’re done!

Your Crochet Alpaca Kit List

4.5mm crochet hook
4mm crochet hook
Women’s Institute Soft and Smooth Tweed, aran weight, Marl.
2 x 10mm safety eyes
Toy safe stuffing

This crochet pattern uses an aran weight yarn. You should find it works up fine in other yarn weights from DK to Chunky, but you will need to also swap the hook as appropriate and probably the size of the safety eyes too if you change weights.

Pattern Notes and Stitches

This pattern is made up of standard stitches and techniques including:

I will explain each abbreviation the first time I use it in full written English, to help crochet beginners stay on track.

Your Crochet Alpaca Pattern

This pattern is made entirely with the same yarn, but you will switch between the 4mm and 4.5mm hook. All body pieces will be crocheted with your 4.5mm crochet hook, but you’ll crochet the fur with your 4mm crochet hook.

The Crochet Alpaca’s Head

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

Put two single crochets into each stitch of the round.

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3 – 5

Make one single crochet in each stitch.

1sc x 12 (12)

Round 6

Single crochet once into the first stitch, and twice into the next. Repeat in that pattern for the length of the round.

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 7

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 6 (24)

Round 8

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 2, 1sc x 16 (26)

Round 9

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 2, 1sc x 16 (28)

Round 10

(1sc x 5, 2sc) x 2, 1sc x 16 (30)

Round 11 – 13

1sc x 30 (30)

Round 14

Single crochet once in the first three stitches, then use one single crochet to join the next two stitches together. Repeat for the duration of the round.

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 6 (24)

Round 15

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 6 (18)

You’ll now need to attach your safety eyes, and with a small amount of thread loop them together slightly to give the indented expression.

Round 16

(1sc, sc2tog) x 6 (12)

You can now fill the head with toy stuffing, being careful to put a little stuffing in the muzzle so it doesn’t get left empty.

Round 17

Sc2tog x 6, then hand sew closed.

Crochet Alpaca Ears

Round 1

Make a magic circle of four stitches

Round 2 – 3

1sc x 4 (4)

Round 4

1sc, 2sc, 1sc, 2sc (6)

Round 5 – 6

1sc x 6 (6)

Round 7

2sc x 6 (12)

Sew your two ears into either side of the alpaca’s head, lining them up to face forwards towards the eyes.

Crocheting the Neck

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc, 1sc x 2) x 3 (15)

Round 4 – 11

1sc x 15 (15)

Round 12

(1sc, sc2tog, 1sc x 2) x 3 (12)

Fill with toy stuffing.

Round 13

Sc2tog x 6, then hand sew to close.

Sew The Head To The Neck

Using the same yarn, thread a thick needle and weave the neck onto the head. Make sure you line up the eyes so that the head is sitting symmetrically on the neck. The muzzle should stick forward, and the neck should line up with the back of the head.

Crochet Alpaca’s Body

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches (8)

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 4 – 5

1sc x 24 (24)

Round 6

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 7 – 12

1sc x 32

Round 13

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 8 (24)

Round 14 – 15

1sc x 24 (24)

Round 16

(1sc, sc2tog) x 8 (16)

Sew The Neck Onto The Body

Before stuffing, you’ll want to sew your neck onto the body. Line the bottom of the neck to the central magic circle of the body. Sew the neck onto the body, slightly wrapping the body around the neck.

Round 17

1sc x 16 (16)

Round 18

Sc2tog x 6 then hand sew to close.

Back Legs

You are going to make your back legs slightly shorter than the front. This will tip your crochet alpaca’s head back a little, putting the weight of the heaviest part further towards the center of the toy. This will help it to stand more securely when it’s finished.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

1sc x 12 into the back loop only (12)

Round 4 – 11

1sc x 12 (12)

Slip stitch into the next stitch, and tie off a long train of thread, ready for you to sew later.

Front Legs

Your front legs will be a little longer than the alpaca’s back legs, and the final round will be a partial round.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

1sc x 12 into the back loop only (12)

Round 4 – 12

1sc x 12 (12)

Round 13

1sc x 6 (12)

Slip stitch into the next stitch, and tie off a long train of thread.

Sewing Your Alpaca’s Legs Onto The Body

First you’ll need to stuff your amigurumi alpaca’s legs. Use small blobs of filler, pushing them down into the leg gently so that it is completely stuffed but not over filled.

Place the longer legs at the front of the body, and the shorter legs to the rear. Weave in and out to sew them on securely.

Crocheting Your Tail

Your alpaca needs a tail!

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches

Round 2 – 11

1sc x 6 (6)

Sew The Tail Onto The Back End

Hand sew the based of the tail directly onto the back end of your alpaca toy.

Crochet Alpaca Fur

You are going to crochet your alpaca some fur by putting single crochets into long chains, then hand sewing them onto the body in groups. You can learn the method in this video with my crochet sheep pattern.

I recommend making the chains in four groups or four connected chains, two for the head and the remaining two for the body sections.

Crochet Fur Group 1

*Chain 51
Skip the first loop, single crochet into each remaining chain
Repeat from * three times

Crochet Fur Group 2

*Chain 71
Skip the first loop, single crochet into each remaining chain
Repeat from * three times

Crocheting Your Own Amigurumi Alpaca

When following a crochet pattern, remember it’s okay to move outside of the bounds of your instructions. If you want to! Your alpaca could be multi-colored, it could be covered in curls or have none at all. All of these expressions of your own creativity can come from any of my patterns, and I love seeing photographs of your finished pieces if you’re willing to share them.

Happy Crocheting!

Lucy Kate, x

The post Crocheting an Amigurumi Alpaca – Free Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Crochet Texas Longhorn Cow Pattern

Lucy Kate — Sat, 23 Dec 2023 13:21:11 +0000

My crochet Texas Longhorn cow pattern is beginner friendly, and I’ve included written instructions along with the pattern details to keep you on track if you’re new to amigurumi. You’ll love creating a farmyard classic creature that isn’t celebrated in yarn as often as it should be!

What you will need.
Pattern notes and extra information.
Free crochet Texas Longhorn pattern.

This crochet cow pattern was initially based on my Highland Cow pattern, but the amigurumi Texas Longhorn rather quickly took on a life of its own.

What You’ll Need

4mm crochet hook
1.8oz/50g Rico Design’s Creative Cotton* aran yarn in pink
3.6oz/100g Rico Design’s Creative Cotton* aran yarn in brown
3.6oz/100g Rico Design’s Creative Cotton* aran yarn in gray
2.5oz Lily Sugar ‘n Cream* worsted weight yarn in white
Toy safe stuffing
Yarn needle
Scissors or a yarn cutter
Stitch markers (optional)

I used a combination of medium weight cotton blend yarns from Lily Sugar n Cream and Rico for this pattern. If you’d like to use different yarns try to match the weight, and if that’s not possible swap hooks to the appropriate size too.

Remember that changing yarn weight and hook size will alter the size of your crochet cow too.

Crochet Cow Pattern Information

You are going to work this amigurumi cow pattern in rounds from central magic loops. The bulk of the stitches are single crochets, but watch out for the regular and irregular increases and decreases.

Your Texas Longhorn’s tail will be crocheted from a simple chain. The horns are two separately crocheted pieces, which you will sew into shape. The markings are worked after

The Free Crochet Texas Longhorn Pattern

Watch out for a couple of quick color changes within this pattern, and irregular increases. Make sure you count your stitches carefully using a stitch marker or a yarn scrap to mark the start of each round.

Each time I use an abbreviation for the first time in this pattern, I’ll add a description above in italics for you.

Crochet Texas Longhorn Cow’s Fur Markings

You’ll know that Texas Longhorns have intricately patterned fur. Some are more mottled than others, but they all have these awesome flecks of color throughout their coat.

We’re going to add this through hand stitching once each section is complete. Attach a long strand of the complimentary yarn color to your needle, and weave in and out of the crochet cow’s pieces at random intervals. You’ll find it looks best if you make each marking a stitch in length and switch between diagonals, horizontal and vertical lines.

How To Crochet Texas Longhorn Horns!

Use your white yarn and 4mm crochet hook. Try to keep the tension fairly tight. You’ll define the shape by sewing.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2 – 4

Put one single crochet in each stitch for three rounds.

1sc x (6)

Round 5

Make two single crochets in each stitch for the round.

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 6 – 14

1sc x 12 (12)

Stuff your horn so far.

Round 15 – 26

1sc x 12 (12)

Thread your yarn needle with a length of yarn the same color as your cow’s horns. Weave back and forth a few times between rounds 14 and 16 and to bend the horns.

Stuff the remaining length of horn.

Round 27

Single crochet two stitches together until the circle is closed.

sc2tog to close, leaving a long tail of yarn for later sewing.

Crochet Texas Longhorn’s Muzzle

You will begin this section in your pink yarn with the 4mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches (8)

Round 2

Put two single crochets into each stitch of the round.

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

Make one single crochet into the first stitch, and two into the next. Repeat a further seven times to complete the round.

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 4

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 5

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 8 (40)

Round 6

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 8 (48)

Round 7 – 8

1sc x 48 (48)

Round 9

Make one single crochet into the first four stitches, then use a single crochet to join the next two stitches together. Repeat for the length of the round, reducing the overall stitch count by eight.

(1sc x 4, sc2tog) x 8 (40)

Round 10

1sc x 40 (40)

Round 11

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 8 (32)

Round 12

1sc x 32 (32)

Slip stitch into the next stitch, then tie off and leave a long train of yarn. Fill the cow’s muzzle with toy safe stuffing and set it to one side.

Crocheting Your Texas Longhorn Cow’s Head

Your Texas Longhorn’s head will be made using your brown and gray yarns, with your 4mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches (8)

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 4

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 5

1sc x 32 (32)

Round 6

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 8 (40)

Round 7 – 13

1sc x 32 (32)

Round 14

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 8 (48)

Round 15 – 16

1sc x 48 (48)

Round 17

(1sc x 5, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 30 (51)

Round 18

(1sc x 6, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 30 (54)

Round 19

(1sc x 7, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 30 (57)

Round 20 – 21

1sc x 57 (57)

Round 22

(1sc x 8, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 30 (60)

Round 23

1sc x 10 cc gray 1sc x 12 cc brown 1sc x 38 (60)

Round 24

1sc x 10 cc gray 1sc x 16 cc brown 1sc x 32 (60)

Round 25

1sc x 8 cc gray 1sc x 18 cc brown 1sc x 32 (60)

Round 26

1sc x 8 cc gray, sc2tog, (1sc x 8, sc2tog) x 2, 1sc x 30 (57)

Round 27

(1sc x 7, sc2tog) x 3, 1sc x 30 (54)

Round 28

(1sc x 6, sc2tog) x 3, 1sc x 30 (51)

Round 29

(1sc x 5, sc2tog) x 3, 1sc x 30 (48)

Round 30

(1sc x 4, sc2tog) x 8 (40)

Round 31

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 8 (32)

Round 32

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 8 (24)

You are now going to attach the muzzle. Using a long thread of the SHADE shade of yarn, weave in and out of the circumference of the muzzle to attach it to the initial magic circle area of the head.

Once the muzzle is attached, sit the head on a flat surface and place the safety eyes. Initially put them both in and look to see if they are symmetrical before you stick the backs on.

When you are happy they are well placed, attach the backings then fill the head with toy stuffing.

Round 33

(1sc, sc2tog) x 8 (16)

Round 34

sc2tog to close. Leave a tail of yarn to insert back into the head.

Hand Sew the Nostrils

Your crochet cow’s nostrils are hand sewn using the yarn needle and brown yarn. Start at a point three rounds from the central magic circle, the top of each nostril will be about two stitches up and the bottom comes out in a triangular shape.

Crocheting Texas Longhorn Ears

The ears of your Texas Longhorn will also be made in brown yarn using the 4mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 4

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 6 (24)

Crocheting the Texas Longhorn’s Body

Your Texas Longhorn’s body will be crocheted using the 4mm hook and gray shade of yarn.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches (8)

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 4

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 5 – 7

1sc x 32 (32)

Round 8

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 8 (40)

Round 9 – 12

1sc x 40 (40)

Round 13

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 8 (48)

Round 14 – 20

1sc x 48 (48)

Round 21

(1sc x 5, 2sc) x 8 (56)

Round 22 – 26

1sc x 56 (56)

Round 27

(1sc x 6, 2sc) x 8 (64)

Round 28 – 29

1sc x 64 (64)

Round 30

(1sc x 6, sc2tog) x 8 (56)

Round 31

(1sc x 5, sc2tog) x 8 (48)

Round 32

(1sc x 4, sc2tog) x 8 (40)

Round 33

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 8 (32)

Round 34

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 8 (24)

Round 35

(1sc, sc2tog) x 8 (16)

Fill the body firmly with toy stuffing, leaving a gap of around half an inch at the top. When you’ve closed you can squeeze the body to even distribute the filling.

Round 36

sc2tog to close. Tie of the yarn, and weave the loose end back into the body.

Crocheting The Front Legs

Begin with your brown yarn and 4mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 3

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 6 (24)

Round 4

1sc x 24 into the back loop only (BLO)

Round 5

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 6 (18)

Round 6 – 7

1sc x 18 (18) cc to gray

Round 8 – 24

1sc x 18 (18)

Round 25

(1sc, sc2tog) x 6 (12)

Fill with toy stuffing, leaving the top four rows empty.

Round 26

sc2tog to close.

Crochet The Back Legs

This is a very similar crochet pattern to the front legs, but gives wider hooves to your cow. Begin with your brown yarn and 4mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 4

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 6 (24)

Round 5

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 6 (30)

Round 6

1sc x 30 BLO (30)

Round 7

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 6 (24)

Round 8

1sc x 24 (24)

Round 9

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 6 (18)

Round 10 – 11

1sc x 18 (18) cc to gray

Round 12 – 24

1sc x 18 (18)

Round 25

(1sc, sc2tog) x 6 (12)

Fill with toy stuffing..

Round 26

sc2tog to close.

Sewing The Crochet Texas Longhorn Together

I sewed my crochet Texas Longhorn together with a steel yarn needle. Then I attached the features to the face first, adding the ears then the horns. Finally, I attached the head to the body, and the limbs in pairs to ensure they stayed symmetrical.

Your Crochet Cow

I hope you have as much fun making this crochet cow pattern as I did designing it! I am really pleased with how it turned out, and it compliments the Highland Cow really well.

Now I’m off to design another breed!

Happy Crocheting,

Lucy Kate, x

The post Crochet Texas Longhorn Cow Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Crocheting an Amigurumi Goat – Free Pattern

Lucy Kate — Thu, 30 Nov 2023 17:43:07 +0000

This fun crochet goat pattern is beginner friendly and quicker than you might think. I’ve written it in simple terms, with explanations for abbreviations the first time they are used. I’ve also included a short video with a clear overview of the design and short tutorials for parts of the pattern that are most unique.

Your amigurumi toolkit.
Notes and tips.
The free crochet goat pattern.

Goats are confident, fun farm animals. And those chunky bodies carry some surprisingly athletic capabilities. I wanted my crochet goat pattern to give off some of that inimitable goaty vibe. From the curly beard to the fine horns and detailed feet, I hope you see something of that charming goat essence in this cute little amigurumi character.

What You’ll Need

Deramores Essentials DK in cream
Deramores Studio Babyluxe Anti-Piling DK* in gray
3.75mm crochet hook
Steel tapestry needle*
Toy stuffing*
Safety eyes*

Pattern Notes and Helpful Information

This pattern is largely built from central magic circles, using single crochet stitches. You’ll also need to be comfortable with chains and a little bit of hand sewing.

You can find a full abbreviation guide here, but I’ll also explain them as we go.

Free Amigurumi Goat Pattern

This amigurumi character is made up in separate sections, which I recommend you hand sew together as you go along.

Crocheting The Goat’s Head

Begin in the cream yarn, using your 3.75mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

Put two single crochets into each stitch of the round, doubling the total stitches.

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

Make one single crochet in the first stitch, then two in the next. Repeat in this pattern for the duration of the round.

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 – 7

1sc x 18 (18)

Round 8

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 2, 1sc x 12 (20)

Round 9

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 2, 1sc x 12 (22)

Round 10 – 11

1sc x 22 (22)

Round 12

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 2, 1sc x 12 (24)

Round 13

(1sc x 5, 2sc) x 2, 1sc x 12 (26)

Round 14 – 15

1sc x 26 (26)

Round 16

Make a single crochet in the first seven stitches, then color change (cc) to gray yarn. Make four more single crochets, then color change to cream. Put a single crochet into each of the remaining fifteen stitches.

1sc x 7, cc gray 1sc x 4, cc cream, 1sc x 15 (26)

Round 17

1sc x 7, cc gray 1sc x 5, cc cream, 1sc x 14 (26)

Round 18

1sc x 4, cc gray, 1sc x 11, cc cream, 1sc x 11, cc gray

Round 19

Make one single crochet in the first five stitches, then use a single crochet to join the next two together. Repeat this pattern one more time, then put a single crochet in each of the remaining twelve stitches.
(1sc x 5, sc2tog) x 2, 1sc x 12 (24)

Round 20

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 6 (18)

Insert safety eyes into the front of the face.

Round 21

(1sc, sc2tog) x 6 (12)

Round 22

sc2tog to close, then using your needle sew the circle closed and hide the tail of yarn within the head.

Crochet Goat’s Ears

Work the main part of the ears in gray yarn.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2 – 6

1sc x 6 (6)

Details

In your cream yarn, make a chain of five stitches. Sew this chain along one edge of the gray ear piece. Use the end of your hook to push the loose strand of thread inside the ear when you’re finished.

Sew the ears onto the sides of the head, facing out sideways with the line of cream relatively centrally placed.

Crocheting The Goat’s Horns

To crochet your goat’s horns you’ll need the cream yarn and 3.75mm crochet hook. You’ll also need a steel yarn needle.

Make a chain of eight stitches.
Skipping the first stitch, make 1sc into each stitch of the chain.
Chain one as the first stitch, then make 1sc into the next six stitches.
Slip stitch into the final stitch.

Fold the small piece of crocheted fabric in half, and using your yarn needle weave the sides together. Then sew them onto the top of your crochet goat’s head.

Sewing The Nose

Thread your yarn needle with the gray yarn, and make a triangle of stitches on the upper side of the original magical circle of the face. Fill it in with additional stitches, to form a nose.

The Amigurumi Goat Body

For the goat’s body you’ll work entirely in the gray yarn with your 3.75mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches (8)

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 4 – 5

1sc x 24 (24)

Round 6

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 7 – 8

1sc x 32 (32)

Round 9

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 8 (40)

Round 10 – 19

1sc x 40 (40)

Round 20

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 8 (32)

Round 21

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 8 (24)

Fill with toy safe stuffing

Round 22

(1sc, sc2tog) x 8 (16)

Round 23

sc2tog to close, and sew tight with a yarn needle if required.

Attaching The Body and Head

Using your gray yarn and a steel needle, sew the goat’s head onto the body. Weave in and out, angling the head forwards slightly. Remember the further forward you place the head, the less balanced your amigurumi figure will be.

Crocheting The Legs

Begin with cream yarn and 3.75mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

Working into the back loop only (BLO)

1sc x 10, sc2tog (11)

Round 4

1sc x 11 (11)

cc gray

Round 5 – 9

1sc x 11 (11)

Fill the leg with toy stuffing. Slip stitch and leave a long end ready for sewing.

Joining The Legs Together

Before attaching the legs to the underside of your goat, pair them up. Put two pairs underneath the head and the other as far back as they can naturally sit on the body. This will give him the most stability.
Hand sew them securely to each other, then weave them directly onto the belly of the goat.

Crocheting The Tail

Work with your gray yarn and the 3.75mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2 – 6

1sc x 6

Round 7

2sc x 4 (10)

Making An Amigurumi Goat Beard

Your crochet goat’s beard is made with the 3.75mm crochet hook and gray yarn.

Make a chain of 12 stitches
Skipping the first loop, single crochet once into each stitch.

Allow the single crocheted chain to curl up. Tie a knot in the end, and with a yarn needle sew it onto the underside of your goat’s chin.

Crocheting An Amigurumi Goat

I designed this amigurumi goat to match with the little sheep I made a week or so ago. They are the same scale and style to them.

I’d love to hear how you get along with this pattern.

Happy Crocheting!

Lucy Kate, x

The post Crocheting an Amigurumi Goat – Free Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Scruffy The Crochet Sheep

Lucy Kate — Wed, 22 Nov 2023 20:47:36 +0000

My scruffy crochet sheep pattern might look detailed, but it’s super simple to hook up. I designed it as a beginner friendly amigurumi pattern, that will take you just a few evenings of fun to crochet. I created the body parts in separate sections, using rounds of single crochets from magic loops. Then I crocheted the wool into simple curls with single crochets worked into chains. It couldn’t be easier!

Your equipment list.
Notes for new crocheters.
The free crochet sheep pattern.

My crochet sheep pattern is suitable for beginners, and I will give you plenty of extra information to help even new crocheters follow along. You can also check out my similarly designed crochet alpaca pattern along with several other farmyard pals!

Your Crochet Sheep Kit List

Lily Sugar ‘n Cream worsted weight cotton yarn* in Ecru (off white)
Lily Sugar ‘n Cream worsted weight cotton yarn* in Jute (pale brown)
4mm crochet hook
Safety eyes*
Toy safe stuffing*

Pattern Notes

The pattern is beginner friendly, with the caveat that you’ll need to be comfortable sewing with a large needle as well as with putting together the basic crochet techniques.

You’ll need to know how to make a magic circle, chain and single crochet.

Points to watch out for in the main pattern include the partial increase to form the amigurumi sheep’s forehead, and the order in which you’ll want to attach the legs to keep them even.

Stuffing is another area where new crocheters struggle. I truly believe it’s fundamental to the look of the toy to not over fill your body parts, as it can cause the stitches to stretch and the shape to distort. Don’t pack it in, all I do is just gently push it inside until I feel a little resistance.

Your Scruffy Sheep Crochet Pattern

You’re going to crochet your little sheep in two main stages. The first is in the jute yarn, where you’ll make the head, body, tail and legs. The second is in the white ecru yarn, which will make up the crocheted fleece coat.

Crocheting Your Sheep’s Head

Work this section in your jute yarn with the 4mm crochet hook. Have your safety eyes and some toy stuffing ready.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

Put two single crochets into each stitch in the round.

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

Single crochet into the first stitch, then single crochet twice into the second. Repeat for the duration of the round.

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 – 7

1sc x 18 (18)

Round 8

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 2, 1sc x 12 (20)

Round 9

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 2, 1sc x 12 (22)

Round 10

1sc x 22 (22)

Round 11

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 2, 1sc x 12 (24)

Round 12 – 15

1sc x 24 (24)

Round 16

Single crochet once into the first two stitches, then single crochet the next two together.

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 6 (18)

Insert safety eyes into the space between the 8th and 9th round, lining them up so that the raised increase section sits between them as the forehead.

Round 17

(1sc, sc2tog) x 6 (12)

Fill with toy stuffing.

Round

sc2tog to close.

The Body and Tail

These sections will be crocheted as one section, in the jute yarn with the 4mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches (8)

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 4 – 5

1sc x 24 (24)

Round 6

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 7 – 16

1sc x 32 (32)

Sew the sheep’s head onto the body. Doing it at this point will enable you to totally disguise the seam and to more easily weave in and out.

Round 17

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 8 (24)

Round 18

(1sc, sc2tog) x 8 (16)

Fill the body with toy stuffing.

Round 19

sc2tog x 8 (8)
You’ll now be extending out to make your sheep’s little docked tail. Leave this section unstuffed.

Round 20 – 24

1sc x 8 (8)

Round 25

sc2tog to close. Use a yarn needle to sew the end tightly closed if your stitching has left it a little loose.

Crocheting Your Sheep’s Legs

Continue working in the jute yarn and using the 4mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

1sc x 10, sc2tog, BLO

Round 4 – 7

1sc x 11 (11)

Fill the leg with toy stuffing. Slip stitch and leave a long end ready for sewing.

Joining The Legs

Once you’ve made up four identical sheepy legs, you can begin to sew them onto the underside of the sheep.

It’s best to do them all at once, so that you can line them up and check your symmetry carefully before you begin.

I like to sew the legs together in pairs, before then attaching the joined legs onto the front and back of the sheep’s underside.

I recommend tacking them on loosely, then standing the crochet sheep up to eyeball the stance before you commit to a firm attachment.

Amigurumi Sheep Ears

Work in the jute yarn with the 4mm crochet hook.

Chain six, skip the first loop then single crochet into the next five stitches.
Chain two, then make a single crochet into the next four stitches and slip stitch into the next.
Tie off with a long thread, read to weave into the sides of the head.

Crocheting The Woolly Fleece Hair

You are going to make your sheep’s hair by crocheting chains and single crocheting back into the chain. You can find a full tutorial for this section on YouTube here or by watching the embedded video at the start of this guide.

I make the chains in strips of between sixty and a hundred stitches, then weave them onto the body and top of the head one at a time.

You can crochet the strips of wool onto your sheep, but it’s easier to use a large needle with some of the yarn.

Make the fleece as thick as you like, leaving some curls hanging down and sewing them tighter together to get a bushier feel.

Your Little Sheep Toy

Crochet sheep are often depicted as soft, cuddly, clean and neat. The reality of keeping sheep is a far cry from this fresh-as-a-daisy image. Sheep are aloof as often as they are pushy, and my goodness are they great at getting the foliage tangled in their gorgeous yarny coats.

My family’s handful of ewes are pets really, but next year we’re going to start spinning their glorious wool into yarn. In the meantime, I really wanted to give a nod in this crochet pattern to the reality of smallholding livestock, with this adorable but ever so scruffy amigurumi sheep.

This is one of my smaller amigurumi projects. I designed and crocheted the pattern in an evening, so I’m confident an experienced crocheter would be able to work this up in just a few hours. The most time consuming part is chaining and single crocheting the fleece, but I also found it very enjoyable.

I can’t wait to hear what you think of my scruffy crochet sheep pattern, and please do share any questions or thoughts in the comments section or on social media for me.

Happy Crocheting!

Lucy Kate, x

The post Scruffy The Crochet Sheep appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Shaggy Crochet Highland Cow

Lucy Kate — Sun, 22 Oct 2023 18:18:10 +0000

My shaggy crochet Highland Cow pattern is a celebration of one of my favorite farm animals.

This pattern is suitable for crochet beginners, and you’ll have fun weaving that fabulous head of hair. If you fancy a less shaggy cow, check out my amigurumi Texas Longhorn here! And if you’d prefer a smaller farm animal to get started with, here’s my adorable amiguri sheep!

What you will need.
Pattern notes and extra information.
Free crochet Highland Cow pattern.

Your Crochet Kit List

For the muzzle I used Life Chunky by Stylecraft* in Oatmeal, which gives an agouti look. The body and bulk of the limbs used Knitcraft’s Everyday Chunky yarn in Rust. I used a two thirds split mixture of these yarns for the hairy head.

For the horns I went with a different weight of yarn to give it that distinct look of a totally different material. I used a cream shade of Rowan’s worsted weight yarn*.

Crochet Pattern Notes and Tips

This pattern builds from magic circles. There are tight rings of stitches that make the central section of many amigurumi animals.

The bulk of the stitches are single crochets, with standard increases and decreases. If you’re new to crochet then check out my crochet abbreviations guide here. You’ll also find a written explanation of each term when they first come up in the pattern.

Your Highland Cow’s tail will be crocheted from a simple chain, and the hair is woven using strands of yarn.

The Free Crochet Highland Cow Pattern

Watch out for a couple of quick color changes within this pattern, and make sure you count your stitches carefully using a stitch marker or a yarn scrap to mark the start of each round.

Crochet Highland Cow’s Muzzle

This section will be made entirely with your 5mm crochet hook and oat shade chunky yarn.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches (8)

Round 2

Put two single crochets into each stitch of the round.

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

Make one single crochet into the first stitch, and two into the next. Repeat a further seven times to complete the round.

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 4

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 5

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 8 (40)

Round 6

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 8 (48)

Round 7 – 8

1sc x 48 (48)

Round 9

Make one single crochet into the first four stitches, then use a single crochet to join the next two stitches together. Repeat for the length of the round, reducing the overall stitch count by eight.

(1sc x 4, sc2tog) x 8 (40)

Round 10

1sc x 40 (40)

Round 11

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 8 (32)

Round 12

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 8 (24)

Slip stitch into the next stitch, then tie off and leave a long train of yarn. Fill the cow’s muzzle with toy safe stuffing and set it to one side.

Crochet Highland Cow’s Head

Your Highland Cow’s head will be made using the chunky red yarn and 5mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches (8)

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 4

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 5

1sc x 32 (32)

Round 6

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 8 (40)

Round 7 – 10

1sc x 40 (40)

Round 11

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 8 (48)

Round 12 – 13

1sc x 48 (48)

Round 14

(1sc x 5, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 30 (51)

Round 15

(1sc x 6, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 30 (54)

Round 16

(1sc x 7, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 30 (57)

Round 17 – 18

1sc x 57 (57)

Round 19

(1sc x 8, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 30 (60)

Round 20

(1sc x 8, sc2tog) x 3, 1sc x 30 (57)

Round 21

(1sc x 7, sc2tog) x 3, 1sc x 30 (54)

Round 22

(1sc x 6, sc2tog) x 3, 1sc x 30 (51)

Round 23

(1sc x 5, sc2tog) x 3, 1sc x 30 (48)

Round 24

(1sc x 4, sc2tog) x 8 (40)

Round 25

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 8 (32)

Round 26

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 8 (24)

You are now going to attach the muzzle. Using a long thread of the oat shade of yarn, weave in and out of the circumference of the muzzle to attach it to the initial magic circle area of the head.

Once the muzzle is attached, sit the head on a flat surface and place the safety eyes. Initially put them both in and look to see if they are symmetrical before you stick the backs on.

When you are happy they are well placed, attach the backings then fill the head with toy stuffing.

Use a length of yarn sewn in through the front and out of the back of the muzzle to create nasal pit definition.

Round 27

(1sc, sc2tog) x 8 (16)

Round 28

sc2tog to close. Leave a tail of yarn to insert back into the head.

Crocheting Highland Cow Ears

The ears of your Highland Cow will also be made in chunky red yarn using the 5mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 4

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 6 (24)

At the end of the round, make a slip stitch into the next stitch, cut off a long tail of yarn and use this to sew around three stitches of the circumference of the ear to the head of the cow. Stitch further around if you find the circle is too floppy.

Crocheting the Highland Cow’s Body

Your Highland Cow’s body will be crocheted using the 5mm hook and red shade of chunky yarn.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches (8)

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 4

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 5 – 7

1sc x 32 (32)

Round 8

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 8 (40)

Round 9 – 12

1sc x 40 (40)

Round 13

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 8 (48)

Round 14 – 20

1sc x 48 (48)

Round 21

(1sc x 5, 2sc) x 8 (56)

Round 22 – 26

1sc x 56 (56)

Round 27

(1sc x 6, 2sc) x 8 (64)

Round 28 – 29

1sc x 64 (64)

Round 30

(1sc x 6, sc2tog) x 8 (56)

Round 31

(1sc x 5, sc2tog) x 8 (48)

Round 32

(1sc x 4, sc2tog) x 8 (40)

Round 33

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 8 (32)

Round 34

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 8 (24)

Round 35

(1sc, sc2tog) x 8 (16)

Fill the body firmly with toy stuffing, leaving a gap of around half an inch at the top. When you’ve closed you can squeeze the body to even distribute the filling.

Round 36

sc2tog to close. Tie of the yarn, and weave the loose end back into the body.

Crocheting The Front Legs

Begin with your oat yarn and 5mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 3

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 6 (24)

Round 4

1sc x 24 into the back loop only (BLO)

Round 5

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 6 cc to red (18)

Round 6 – 24

1sc x 18 (18)

Round 25

(1sc, sc2tog) x 6 (12)

Fill with toy stuffing, leaving the top four rows empty.

Round 26

sc2tog to close.

Crochet The Back Legs

This is a very similar crochet pattern to the front legs, but gives wider hooves to your cow. Begin with your oat yarn and 5mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 4

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 6 (24)

Round 5

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 6 (30)

Round 6

1sc x 30 BLO (30)

Round 7

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 6 (24)

Round 8

1sc x 24 (24)

Round 9

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 6 cc to red (18)

Round 10 – 24

1sc x 18 (18)

Round 25

(1sc, sc2tog) x 6 (12)

Fill with toy stuffing, leaving the top four rows empty.

Round 26

sc2tog to close.

How To Crochet Highland Cow Horns

This will be where you use your lighter weight, finer wool yarn. Use your white yarn and 4mm crochet hook. Try to keep the tension fairly tight. You’ll define the shape by sewing once you’ve completed them.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2 – 4

1sc x (6)

Round 5

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 6 -11

1sc x 12 (12)

Round 12

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 13 – 37

1sc x 18 (18)

Round 38

(1sc, sc2tog) x 6 (12)

Fill with toy stuffing.

Round 39

sc2tog to close, leaving a long tail of yarn for later sewing.

Giving the crocheted horns some shape

Take the tail of yarn and attach a yarn needle. Push the needle through round 39, emerging around two thirds of the way along the horn. Bring the needle to stitch around four rounds back towards your starting point.

Weave back and forth between those two rounds to create a kink in the horn. Tie off to secure it into the shape you desire.

Sewing The Crochet Highland Cow Together

I sewed my crochet highland cow together with a steel yarn needle. Attach the features to the face first, adding the ears then the horns afterwards. Follow this by joining the head to the body, and the limbs in pairs to ensure they stay symmetrical.

Crochet Highland Cow’s Hair

Highland cows have this amazing, shaggy coat. It’s especially notable around their faces, and droops low like bangs over their eyes.

I created my crochet cow’s hair using a 4mm crochet hook and two strands of yarn. Around a third of the time I paired an oat with a rust strand, the rest of the time I just doubled up the rust.

Hold two strands of yarn together.
Insert the crochet hook into a space. This can be either between the horns, or along the front side of the horns or the ears.
Pick up the yarn strands with the hook, twist and pull through until you have a loop protruding.
Then hook the cut end of the yarn, and pull through completely until tightly knotted.
Snip off the yarn at the skein, then cut the yarn length to your desired level on the cow’s face.

Let me know in the comments section if this isn’t clear, and I’ll be happy to make a short video detailing the method.

I grew up rurally, and my Dad’s best friend had a herd of these amazing creatures. They were beautiful yet strangely wild in appearance. I hope I’ve captured just a bit of their awesome essence in my amigurumi Highland Cow! I hope you have as much fun making this crochet cow pattern as I did designing it!

Happy Crocheting,

Lucy Kate, x

And now that you’re done – why not make him a sheepy buddy!

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