A little while back, I showed you how to incorporate the wonderfully bumpy bobble stitch into granny squares. But one technique I wasn’t very familiar with at the time was making shapes, recurring patterns, or motifs from bobble stitches. Since then I’ve done lots of experimenting with exactly that. So now I’m going to show you exactly how to design and make bobble stitch shapes. I’ve got some simple patterns to share, but I’m also going to make it really easy for you to design your own patterns – including amazing embossed bobble stitch lettering!

Making bobble stitches – a quick reminder

Bobble stitches are fabulous little clusters of double crochet, that form cute convex bubbles on the surface of your fabric. Bobbles are made across two stitches. In the first stitch you crochet five double crochet together (dc5tog):

1. Yarn over
2. Insert hook through stitch, yarn over and pull through
3. Yarn over and draw through two loops on your hook (two loops remaining)
4. Repeat steps 1 – 3 (three loops remaining on hook)
5. Repeat steps 1 – 3 three times more (six loops remaining on hook)
6. Yarn over, and draw through all six loops.

And in the second stitch, make a single crochet. This pushes the double crochets in the previous stitch outwards, forming a plump bobble.

How bobble stitch shapes are designed

Understanding bobble stitch picture patterns – and even designing your own – is really simple when you keep in mind two things:

1. A bobble stitch is about as wide and tall as two double crochet stitches. This means that you can combine bobble stitches and pairs of double crochets like tiles to build up a picture.
2. Bobble stitches are non-reversible. This means that when you’re working back and forth in rows, you need to alternate rows that have bobble stitches in them with rows of single crochet, so you’re always working in the same direction when you make the bobbles.

Now all you need to design a bobble stitch pattern is a grid of squares to lay it out on. You could use:

• Squared paper (ideal for rapidly brainstorming ideas)
• A hand sketched grid (does the job just fine for small designs)
• A spreadsheet or table on an electronic device (handy for refining ideas without redrawing them several times).

On your grid, each square is two stitches wide, and may represent either:

• A bobble stitch (1 dc5tog, plus 1 single crochet)

Or

• 2 double crochets

You can represent them any way you like. I use a large-ish solid dot for my bobbles, and leave the box empty for two double crochets.

There’s no need to draw in the rows of single crochet in between your bobble rows. Just remember that they need to be made!

Reading your pattern

Bobble stitch patterns are read from left to right, starting at the bottom row and working upwards. Some people do prefer to read them from right to left, since rows of crochet themselves progress from right to left. If you’d like to do that, just bear in mind your pattern will be reversed, and the finished design will be a mirror image of the template you worked from. Easy ways to correct the pattern so you can follow it from right to left are to:

• Take a photo and flip the image using your smartphone or computer.
• Prop a paper pattern up facing a light source, and read it through the back of the page.

Shape distortion

Here’s a reminder of the granny square with a bobble stitch motif from my previous article:

Its shortcomings are pretty obvious – it’s not square! But my design was. What I’d failed to take into account was that bobble stitches are taller than they are wide. And two double crochets are also taller than they are wide. In fact, a square bobble stitch pattern drawn out on paper will only be about 85% as wide as it is tall when it’s made up.

Here’s another illustration. The top pattern is square and the bottom pattern is a wide rectangle.

And here they are made up:

The top pattern produced the tall rectangle from my previous article. And the bottom pattern produces a square. The same effect will apply when you crochet any bobble stitch shape. So, if proportions are important for your pattern to make sense, design it slightly wider than you want it to turn out. Better still, make samples of small areas, to check they’re going to look right!

Some simple bobble stitch shape patterns

Now you know how to design a bobble stitch pattern, there’s really no limit on how far you can make your own. Some people cover whole king size blankets with intricate designs! Before you commit to something so big, here are some simple designs to try out first or inspire your pattern.

Bobble stitch hearts

Hearts are one of the most simple and satisfying bobble stitch motifs to make. Since they’re easily recognizable from any angle, they work well as a border.

Here are patterns for three sizes of heart. To count out space for them, remember that each square in the grid is two stitches wide.

Here are the largest and smallest hearts made up:

I didn’t think I’d have enough yarn to include all three of them, and sure enough, I ran out shortly after completing two!

Bobble stitch boat

This was my daughter’s favorite design from my page of doodles above. It’s just a shame I didn’t have any blue yarn in my stash to make an example from! That would have looked even more charming. The pattern is 18 stitches (9 bobbles) wide, and 9 bobbles tall.

Bobble stitch cactus

Embroidery embellishments are a popular way of bringing bobble stitch designs to life. This cactus is very straight forward, but it would look sad and maybe even a little hard to recognize without its pink flowers. Here’s the pattern:

The flowers are added last and could hardly be simpler. Using a contrasting yarn:

• Make a magic circle.
• *Ch3, sl st into the magic circle* 5 times.
• Cut the yarn and use the tails to tie the flower to the side of a cactus limb.

If you fancy making your cacti bigger, these puff stitch flowers would be perfect for keeping the scale right.

Bobble stitch snail

Bobble stitch patterns are an excellent opportunity to experiment with color changes and use up yarn scraps. The single crochet stitch after the dc5tog is the ideal place to hide a change of yarn. The body and shell of this cute little snail are made in two colors. The antennae are embroidered on last – they’re made up of three simple back stitches, and a french knot at the end.

Here’s the pattern:

The snail itself is 12 stitches (or six bobbles) across, and four bobbles high (eight rows, if you count the rows of single crochet between the bobble rows).

Bobble stitch lettering

If you’re looking for something really fun and inventive to do with bobble stitch, using it to spell out words is just the thing. For example, using bobble stitches to spell out a baby’s name on a blanket is a lovely way to make a personalized keepsake. I’m not going to give you a pattern for a whole alphabet here though, because I have a much better tip – cross stitch patterns! There are countless cross stitch fonts already designed, many of which are free to download online. And the majority of them translate perfectly into making bobble stitch patterns – just avoid any cross stitch alphabets with half stitches in them.

Stacked vs offset bobble stitches

In all these designs, I’ve stacked my bobble stitches in neat vertical rows. This keeps things simple, and means the patterns can be drawn out on any square grid. But, there’s no reason the bobbles can’t be offset or staggered, like bricks in a wall. Since each bobble stitch occupies two stitch spaces, it’s as simple as lining them up so that one bobble isn’t directly above the one below – fill one space with an extra double crochet instead.

Offsetting bobble stitches gives you a little bit extra freedom to make designs more recognizable. In fact, I’m already thinking the three short rows of offset bobbles in that photo could be turned into a cute little pumpkin motif with an embroidered stalk!

Crocheting bobble stitch shapes – summary

Crocheting bobble stitch shapes look deceptively complicated. In fact, they’re very easy to construct, and a lot of fun to watch materialize when you make them! Bobble stitch patterns are the perfect way to customize crochet blankets for children, with either their name or a picture of something they love. If you need more ideas to get you started, simple cross stitch patterns are a brilliant place to start, since they’re laid out on the same grid pattern. Let me know what pattern ideas you have in mind using the comments bow down below!

The post Crocheting Bobble Stitch Shapes appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

The first thing I teach to crochet beginners is a sampler of chains, single, double and treble crochet stitches. I have found this makes for a really solid foundation, regardless of where my students hope to take their crochet journey after that.

You can get to grips quickly with these techniques by making samples. I am going to help you to produce a series of little rows of crochet stitches, that create a small test swatch. My written instructions, video tutorial and photographs will have you hooking perfect single, double and treble crochet stitches in no time.

• Single Crocheting.
• Double Crocheting.
• Treble Crocheting.

Single (sc), Double (dc) and Treble (tr) are standard crocheting terms, yet I have found that they cause a lot of confusion for new crocheters. Firstly, because they aren’t the same in English and American crochet terminology, and secondly because the differences between them are subtle. 

You’re new to crochet, so I’ll break the process down into steps. Follow along with the YouTube tutorial, or check the photographs and written instructions below. 

The Foundation Chain

To start making your sample we’ll need a foundation chain, also written in patterns as ‘ch’.

Ideally, I recommend using a firm, cotton based worsted weight yarn and a 4mm crochet hook. But any fairly tight yarn type and appropriately sized hook will be fine.

Casting Onto Your Crochet Hook

• Cast your yarn onto your hook by extending your finger and draping the yarn over twice.

• Lift the back loop over the front loop.

• Lift your new back loop over the front loop and finger.

• Put your hook through the loop of yarn.

• Pull the yarn gently to secure the loop to the hook.

Creating Tension

• Your dominant hand will be holding the crochet hook.
• Wrap the yarn around your non-dominant hand’s little finger, and over the back of your hand. Your first finger of this hand will create tension.

• This hand will also pinch the yarn tail or stitches you create between the thumb and third finger to hold the yarn in place.

Crocheting Your Chain

• Pick up your yarn with the crochet hook.

• Pull the yarn through the loop on your hook.

• To make a chain, repeat the last two steps, yarning over the hook and pulling it through the loop on the hook.

The Single Crocheting Technique

You’ve got a foundation chain to work into now, so let’s dive into your single crochets. You’ll find this written in patterns as ‘sc’.

• Skipping the first loop of your chain closest to the hook, put the hook through the second chain space.

• Yarn over the hook, turn the hook to pick up the yarn securely, and pull it through the chain. You should now have two loops on your hook.

• Yarn over the hook again, and pull through both loops on the hook.

• You have made a single crochet!

• Repeat this process in each chain space. Hook through the next stitch, yarn over, pull back through the stitch, yarn over, pull through the two loops on the hook.

Creating more single crochet rows

To practice another row of single crochets, make a chain of one stitch at the end of your row. This will form your first single crochet.

Then turn your work over.

You can now skip the first stitch and make a single crochet into each of the stitches in the row. Just like before, push your hook through the next stitch, yarn over, pull it back through the stitch. Then yarn over and pull it through the two loops remaining on the hook.

Double Crocheting

Moving on to Double Crochets, begin by making a chain of two stitches. This will form your first double crochet, also written as ‘dc’.

• Turn your work over, so you are crocheting into the reverse side.

• Make a loop of yarn over the hook.
• Skip the first stitch (that the chain emerged from), and make your new double crochet into the next space along.

• Yarn over and pull the yarn back through the stitch.

• You will have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through two of the loops.

• Yarn over again and pull through the remaining two loops.

How Single and Double Crochets Differ

The main difference between single and double crochet stitches is in height. You will however also find that the taller stitch feels less dense, because the width is the same but the height is greater.

Treble Crocheting

Your treble crochet, or ‘tr’ stitches are similar to your single and double crochets, but have an extra loop of yarn at the beginning, which translates to a further set of pulled loops later on. Let’s break that down into stages!

• Begin the row by making a starting chain of three stitches.

• Turn your work over.
• Yarn over your hook twice.

• Put your hook through the next stitch.
• Yarn over your hook once, and pull the hook back through the stitch.

• You will now have four loops on your hook. Yarn over, and pull through the first two loops on the hook.

• You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over again and pull through the next two loops on the hook.

• Now there are just two loops on your hook. Yarn over a final time, then pull through the last two loops on the hook.

You’ve made your treble crochet!

Treble vs Double Crochet Stitches

Once again, the difference between the stitches is height, however the gaps between the stitches will also be even more pronounced for your tall treble crochet stitches.

The post Making and Comparing Single, Double and Treble Crochet Stitches appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

The shell stitch granny square can be a fiddly challenge at first, but it’s more than worth the effort! A single shell stitch granny square makes an attractive coaster, place mat or pot stand. Or if you keep working outwards for long enough, a beautiful blanket with an attractive scalloped border. Alternatively, multiple shell stitch squares can be pieced together using the join-as-you-go method, to achieve a decorative tiled effect. The appearance of shell stitch grannies also changes dramatically depending on where you make color changes. So if you’re keen to flex your crochet muscles and experiment with something a little out of the ordinary, this is the perfect pattern to try!

• Choosing a yarn and getting started
• How to make a shell stitch granny square
• When to stop
• Playing with color

Choosing a yarn and getting started

Shell stitches are pretty, versatile clusters of double crochet, joined at the bottom but not at the top. There are several popular shell stitch variations that can be adapted to making granny squares, by working them outwards from the center, rather than in rows. In this article I’m going to focus on using classic shell stitch (also known as the solid shell stitch). It’s a lovely, dense crochet stitch without many gaps or holes – perfect for coasters that don’t let drips through, and blankets that don’t let heat out! Here are a couple of notes before you get started:

• Choose a relatively smooth yarn for shell grannies, since their impact is all in the layout of your stitches. You don’t want that detail getting lost in a haze of fuzz!
• Each row of shells is made by adding two rounds of stitches.
• The first four rounds require a bit of concentration and counting the first time you make them. After that, the underlying pattern is easy to follow, and there’s something quite pleasing and mindful about it.
• There are a couple of techniques that you don’t often see in granny squares, but I’ve got lots of detailed photos to help you follow them.
• If you’ll be joining your squares, stop one row before they reach the desired size, so you can join them later – we’ll come back to this later!

How to make a shell stitch granny square

This pattern uses standard American crochet terms and abbreviations.

• Ch = Chain
• Ch sp = Chain space
• Dc = Double crochet
• Sc = Single crochet
• Sl st = Slip stitch

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches. Ch 4 (which represents 1 dc, and 1 ch), *dc, ch* seven times, sl st into 3rd link of the ch 4 to join.

Round 2

Ch 1. Working into the chain spaces only, *sc into the next space, dc 7 into the following space* four times. Sl st into first sc to join.

Round 3

Ch 4. (Dc, ch 3, dc, ch, dc, ch 5) into the same sc you slip stitched into at the end of round 2. (Dc, ch, dc, ch 3, dc, ch, dc, ch 5) into the next 2 sc. Into the final sc: dc, ch, dc, ch 3, dc, ch, dc, ch 2 (not 5!). Join by making a dc into the 2nd link of the ch 4.

Here’s a diagram of where all those stitches are going. The round starts at the star, and works counterclockwise:

And here’s how it going to look once you’ve made it:

Take a quick look at that join, and how it bridges the final gap using two chains and one double crochet, rather than 5 chains and a slip stitch. It’s a bit unusual, and fairly unique to granny squares made from shell stitch. But it means your next round starts right above the center of a shell. Clever, huh?

Round 4

Ch 1. Sc into the top of the 4th dc of the shell from round 2 – make sure you work your stitch around the post of the dc that joined round 3 as well. Dc 7 into the ch 4 space from round 3. Sc into the ch 3 space. Dc 7 into the next ch space. Sc into the top of the 4th dc of the next shell from round 2. Make sure you catch the ch 5 from round 3 in your stitch. *Dc 7 into ch 1 sp, sc into ch 3 sp, dc 7 into ch 1 sp, sc into the 4th dc of the next shell* twice more. Dc 7 into ch 1 sp, sc into ch 3 sp, dc 7 into ch 1 sp. Sl st into the chain stitch from the start of the round to join.

Here’s a diagram of where to place those stitches. Remember, start at the star, and work counterclockwise.

There’s a real mix of inserting your hook into the top loops of previous stitches, and into chain spaces, so pay close attention to that at first. It will all come very easily in another couple of rounds! Here’s a picture of how round 4 looks when it’s done:

Round 5

Ch 4. (Dc, ch 5) into the first sc you made in round 4. *(Dc, ch, dc, ch 3, dc, ch, dc, ch 5) into the next sc, and (dc, ch, dc, ch 5) into the sc after that* three times. (Dc, ch, dc, ch 3, dc, ch, dc, ch 2) into the final sc, and join with a dc to the 2nd link of the ch 4.

Here’s another visual representation of where all those stitches are going:

And here’s how they’ll look:

Round 6

Hopefully you can see the pattern forming now!

For the next round, and all the following even-numbered rounds:

• Ch 1.
• Sc into the central stitch of the shell below.
• Dc 7 into all the ch 1 spaces.
• Sc into the center of all the previous shells, catching the ch 5’s as you go.
• Sc into the ch 3 corner spaces.
• And sl st into the first ch to join.

Like this:

Round 7

My square is about 4″ across now, which I think is about the perfect size. But for a round 7, and all following odd-numbered rounds:

• Ch 4.
• (Dc, ch 5) into the first sc from the previous round.
• (Dc, ch, dc, ch 5) into the sc stitches on the sides (with a deep indent).
• (Dc, ch, dc, ch 3, dc, ch, dc, ch 5) into the sc at the corners (with a shallow indent).
• And finish by working ch 2, joining with a dc into the 2nd link of the ch 4.

When to stop

For single-square projects, like coasters, place mats, pot rests, and blankets made in one continuous square, finish whenever your project reaches the size you want it to be. You can:

• Finish on an even-numbered row, and your work will already have a perfect scalloped edge with a gorgeously vintage feel.
• Or finish on an odd-numbered row, if you want a foundation for working a different type of border (I’m not sure why you would do this though!

If you’re making a blanket from lots of squares, you’ll need to stop making each one a row before they’re ‘done’. Shell stitch grannies don’t really lend themselves to being sewn together, and you’ll need to use the join-as-you-go technique when you work your final round. This can be an odd- or even-numbered round, and you can see the method for both in this video:

Playing with color

Finally, where you make your color changes in a shell stitch granny square makes a big difference to how it looks. And I just want to show you that.

In the square on the left, I changed colors after rounds 2 and 4. In other words, I worked one odd-numbered row and one even-numbered row in the same color before changing. This produces a really clean, bold result. In the square on the right, I worked the odd-numbered rounds in dark red (except round 1) and the even-numbered rows in lighter colors. Picking out the odd numbered rows in a contrasting color produces a much more visually intricate design, which is very traditional for shell stitch granny square projects.

Shell stitch granny square – summary

Shell stitch granny squares can be simple and bold, or detailed and highly decorative. They make a very different impact depending on how big you make them, where you change color, and how you join them together. But even a lone 4″ square is beautiful, and can work by itself as a drinks coaster or mat. And that isn’t something that can be said for many types of granny square! Let us know how you’ll use your in the comments box down below.

The post Shell Stitch Granny Square appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Granny Blankets

A simple granny square, stripe or hexagon design is the easiest crochet blanket for beginners.

This style isn’t just comprised of easy to form stitches, it works up really quickly. This is important for keeping new crocheters motivated, before they have the confidence to know it’s going to be worth all that time and effort.

You can also make granny square blankets super complicated, including shapes, patterns and pictorial designs like my sunny skies blanket!

Corner to Corner

Corner to corner crocheting is also known as c2c or diagonal box stitch crochet. This is because it’s worked diagonally, from the edge of the blanket rather than in a straight line or round.

C2C crochet has a pixelated effect that works really well for pictorial designs, especially if you like blocky images like MineCraft. Just make sure you turn over the blanket repeatedly as you work, as it’ll end up rather wonky.

Complex corner to corner blankets look intimidating, but like so many things once you’ve got the hang of the pattern they are quite straight forward. More suited to crocheters with a few months experience under their belts, they are a really fun way to work up some cool square designs.

Temperature Blankets

Temperature afghans are the perfect way to make an entirely unique color pattern. The basis of the design is formed from a temperature chart where different degrees equal different yarn colors.

You can find one of the oodles of ideas online, or make up your own chart that works well for your local climate and ideal color palette.

Ideal Materials

Yarn comes in a huge range of different fibers, strengths, elasticities and finishes. Some are easy to wash, others need a seriously delicate touch even for handling. You’ll find cheap, mass produced, manufactured styles, and those that are natural or totally eco friendly.

The best yarn for crocheting blankets will depend on your budget, the availability of the yarn and on what you’re going to use your afghan for. Textures, weights and of course the colors you are going for also play a part in the decision. How much yarn you’ll use will vary depending on the size of blanket you make and the stitches you employ.

As a general rule of thumb, when you are crocheting a blanket it’s a good idea to pick a yarn that has a soft feel but a sturdy strength, which can survive a gentle wash and looks quality even after a few months of use.

Uses and Purposes

My crochet blankets tend to be made up for babies, as gifts or just on a whim. Which means I often have blankets laying around that don’t really fit into any of my plans, or with the decor in my home either. It’s not ideal.

Don’t be like me, be a sensible crocheter and plan ahead. Plan your blanket to fit a pram, cot, stroller, crib or bedspread. Think about whether it’s going to be twin, full, queen or even king sized when complete.

Crochet blankets also make fantastic throws for couches and armchairs. These are big projects, but totally worth the extra effort when they come together.

Crochet Blanket Stitches

There are endless stitches you can use, and put together, when crocheting a blanket. Any crochet technique can be applied either into or onto a blanket. But these are some of the most popular techniques for a standard afghan project.

Single, Double and Treble Crochets

Your most basic crochet stitches are the single, double and treble crochets. The single is the shortest, and the treble the longest. The names refer to the number of loops that you are working with.

You can also give them fun borders and details, that add a bit more to the standard shapes.

Extended Single Crochets

The extended single crochet makes a good halfway bridge between the single crochet and double crochet.

Granny Stitch

The granny stitch is three double crochets made into the same gap, also known as a cluster. It can be worked straight into a foundation chain or after a border of single crochets. And of course this double crochet cluster is what creates the fabulous granny stripe, square and hexagon blankets.

Solid Granny Stitch

The traditional granny square but with no gaps!

Ripple or Chevron Stitches

I adore ripple stitches, but they are a trickier and more time consuming way to make a blanket. Especially if you’re a fan of a straight edged border. They involve at regular intervals adding in and removing stitches from the length of the row.

Moss, Linen or Granite Stitches

Moss stitch gives your blanket a very thick feel, and has a lovely raised texture to it regardless of the yarn you use.

There are several types of linen stitch, but they are all formed by crocheting in alternating rows in opposite directions.

Waffle Stitch

Waffle stitches aren’t just brilliant because they look like one of the best foods in the universe. They are a straightforward stitch to make, and can even be worked in a round like a regular granny square blanket. All you need to do is work some of your double crochets into the front post of the previous stitch.

Bobble Stitches

Bobble stitches are an addition to other blanket stitches like single or double crochets. They add a raised spherical area to the material, usually formed with clusters of double crochets that are crocheted together at the top.

Puff Stitches

Similarly to a bobble stitch, the puff stitch is comprised of a group of stitches made in one place, however in this case you don’t tighten the stitch to the loop until you’ve finished. They can also be used to make the entire fabric of the blanket, not just accent points.

Star Stitches

Star stitches, and the blankets that use them, come in many forms. We’ve got several suggestions for you here, all as gorgeous as each other.

Shell Stitches

I don’t crochet shell stitches often, but when I do it’s always a bit of a treat. They can only be described as intricate.

The traditional shell shape is easy to make, and adds detail to a range of projects to blankets and beyond.

Borders and Embellishments

No crochet blanket is complete, quite literally, without a border. Edging your blanket isn’t just a lovely way to make it look more professional, but it is also the easiest way to hide loose threads without endless weaving.

Blanket edging can be as simple as a round of single crochets, to as elaborate as an entirely different stitch, set of tassels or even added embellishments made from different materials.

Whatever your preferred crochet blanket style is, you’ll need to hide those loose ends when you’re done. There are three main ways to do that, and a border is one of them!

The post Crochet Blanket Styles and Stitches appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

A waffle stitch granny square has the most fabulous texture. In fact waffle stitch lends itself extremely well to making granny square blankets. It’s quick and easy to crochet, dense and cozy when finished, and well suited to working outwards in rounds, rather than in rows. Waffle stitch’s grid pattern also has a very pleasing geometry. If you ever passed the time in math class by neatly coloring in the squares in your workbook, then you are going to love how color changes look in waffle stitch!

• Front post double crochet – the key to unlocking waffle stitch
• Making a waffle stitch granny square in the round
• Making a waffle stitch square in rows
• Uses for waffle stitch granny squares

Front post double crochet – the key to unlocking waffle stitch

Waffle stitch has an impressive raised pattern which looks far more complicated to achieve than it actually is. In fact, it’s constructed entirely out of (U.S.) double crochet stitch. But instead of working all your stitches into the top loops of the stitches from the previous row, some of them are worked around the the posts of the previous row. This is known as front post double crochet, and abbreviated to fpdc in patterns. It’s very fast and easy, and not fiddly or irritating like working into front or back loops can be! Here’s how it’s done.

We’re going to make up a sample, so begin by making a chain and double crocheting back into it. You can front post double crochet into the next row.

To make a front post double crochet in the next stitch, I’m going to put my yarn over the hook as normal, and insert my hook as show by the arrow:

Like so:

Then yarn over the hook and draw through, as usual:

And complete the double crochet in the standard way – yarn over and draw through two loops, yarn over and draw through two loops again. It’s going to make my rows look a bit wonky for a moment, but that’s ok:

Now I’ll complete the rest of the row in regular double crochet. Watch out, because the top of the next stitch can end up a little bit tucked behind the fpdc. In the photo above it looks like there are only 3 stitches left in the row, but if you scroll up a little, you can see that actually there are 4 stitches to the left of the stitch with the fpdc in it. And once they’re all worked, my rows have straightened themselves out again:

If you look at them sideways-on, you can clearly see how the fpdc stands proud of the rest of the row:

Gorgeous. Now let’s turn it into some grannies!

Making a waffle stitch granny square in the round

The easiest way to make a waffle stitch granny square is working in the round. But if you’re new to waffle stitch, I do recommend making a small swatch in rows first – it really helps to get a feel for how it’s constructed, before you start throwing corners into the mix! I’ll give instructions for that too in a moment. But first, here’s how a waffle stitch square works in the round.

Instructions for making a waffle stitch square in the round

Some notes before we begin:

• Waffle stitch is non-reversible (i.e. has a distinct right and wrong side), so you’ll be turning your work between rounds.
• The chain space at the corners is just 1 ch.
• It takes two rounds to make each row of squares, so you’ll want to finish on an odd number of rounds. This square is made of 7 rounds –

Let’s begin!

• Make a magic circle to start.
• Round 1: Ch 3, dc 1, ch1, *dc 2, ch 1* three times, sl st into top of the ch 3. 12 sts.
• Round 2: Turn your work – wrong side facing. The chain spaces from the previous round are now going to become your 4 corner spaces. (Sl st, ch 4, dc 1) into the first corner space, fpdc around the next 2 stitches, *(dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) in the corner space, fpdc 2* three times, sl st into 3rd ch from the beginning of the round. 20 sts.
• Round 3: Turn your work – right side facing. Ch 3, fpdc 1, dc 2, fpdc 1, *(dc 2, ch 1, dc 2) in the corner space, fpdc 1, dc 2, fpdc1* three times, (dc 2, ch 1, dc 1) in the final corner space, sl st into top of the ch 3. 36 sts.
• Round 4: Turn your work – wrong side facing. (Sl st, ch 4, dc 1) into the corner space, [fpdc 2, *dc 1, fpdc 2* to next corner, (dc 1, ch 1, dc 1) in the corner space], repeat section in square brackets three times, fpdc 2, *dc 1, fpdc 2* to final corner, sl st into 3rd ch from the beginning of the round. 44 sts.
• Round 5: Turn your work – right side facing. (Sl st, ch3) into the corner space, [fpdc, *dc 2, fpdc 1* to next corner, (dc 2, ch 1, dc 2) in the corner space], repeat section in square brackets three times, *dc 2, fpdc 1* to final corner, (dc 2, ch 1, dc 1) in the corner space, sl st into top of ch 3. 60 sts.

Repeat rows 4 and 5, finishing on an odd-numbered row.

Making a waffle stitch granny square in rows

There aren’t a lot of stitches which work equally well in rows and rounds for making granny squares. And sure enough, whilst waffle stitch works brilliantly in the round, it’s a bit clumsy for making squares in rows. The edges are tricky to get straight and the pattern doesn’t align across adjoining squares in such a satisfying way. However, you might want to work in rows if your square(s) need to be a particular size. Waffle squares made in the round can only be an odd number of squares along each edge. For example 7×7 or 9×9. If you’re making a mix’n’match afghan using squares in lots of different stitches, and your waffle squares are coming up either too small or too big, then working in rows instead might be the secret to getting the right dimensions.

Instructions for making a waffle stitch square in rows

Note: To make the vertical edges of your square as neat as possible, I recommend using this technique for turning at the end of each row, rather than using a turning chain.

• Foundation chain: Any multiple of 3, plus 1. The number of squares in your waffle grid will be one less than the number of multiples of 3. For example a foundation chain of 16 (which is 5 x 3, plus 1) will make a waffle grid 4 squares wide.
• Row 1: Sc into the 2nd chain from the hook. Follow the technique in the video above to ‘stack’ another sc on top of it. Dc to end.
• Row 2: Turn using the method in the video. *Fpdc 1, dc 2* until 2 sts remain, fpdc 1, dc 1.
• Row 3: Turn as above, *dc 1, fpdc 2* until 1 st remains, dc 1.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until your granny square is as tall as it is wide.

Uses for waffle stitch granny squares

Waffle stitch granny squares are robust and dense. Smaller waffle squares, between 4″ and 6″ wide, are can be joined to make granny square blankets, throws, throw pillow covers and seat pads. But waffle stitch lends itself especially well to making large projects out of one continuous granny square too. For example cot blankets and lapghans. Incorporating color changes really highlights the geometry of this stitch as well, if you love a technicolor project. Finally, 8″ or 10″ waffle squares crocheted in strong cotton yarns are excellent dishcloths.

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Star stitch variations are great fun to work with in crochet. Star stitch is a cluster stitch worked across two rows. There are two main variations of the classic star stitch. But there are other cluster stitches also which make a good substitute for star stitch. So if you also find the original star stitch a bit fiddly, or uninspiring, or if you want an easier alternative that allows you to binge watch a new TV series at the same time, you’ve come to the right place!

Contents

• Classic star stitch 1
• Classic star stitch 2
• Trinity stitch (mini stars!)
• Harlequin stitch (big stars!)
• Jasmine stitch (squashy stars!)

Star stitch

Star stitch is a gorgeous textural crochet stitch. It is also known as

• a spiked cluster
• the daisy stitch
• and the marguerite stitch (presumably after marguerite daisies).

The construction of the star stitch makes you wonder who ever had the vision to create it in the first place. Each cluster radiates out from the center of the stitch, and the ‘spokes’ of each star get longer as they go round clockwise. They actually remind me more of a snail shell or a golden ratio spiral more than a star.

The two main variations on star stitch are both worked over two rows. The first row is worked the same way for both. It demands some attention the first time you make it, because you’re going to pull five loops of yarn through your work onto your hook, and then take them all off again all at once to make a cluster. But you’re going to pull through those loops through in some pretty surprising places!

Luckily the second row is more simple – a straightforward row of single or half double crochet. So let’s take a closer look at how that first row is constructed, and how using single or half double crochet for the second row changes the overall look and feel of the stitch.

Classic star stitch 1

Here is the classic star stitch with alternate rows of single crochet. Isn’t it pretty? It’s very flat, one-sided (non-reversible), and dense. It looks finest when made with smooth yarns, to accentuate the detail in the stitch.

To make this star stitch

1. Make a foundation chain with an odd number of stitches.

2. Insert your hook through the 2nd chain from the hook, yarn over, and pull through (2 loops on hook). Repeat with the 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th chains (6 loops on hook). Yarn over one more time, and draw through all 6 loops on the hook.

3. Chain 1 to close the stitch. This is the center of your star, the eye of your daisy, the middle of your stitch! Now to make its neighbor.

4. Insert your hook into the chain stitch from the previous step, yarn over, and draw through one loop. You’ll have 2 loops on your hook.

5. Insert your hook between the last spoke of your star and the one before it, yarn over, and draw through one loop. Now you have 3 loops on your hook.

6. Insert your hook into the 6th stitch of your foundation chain – the last place you drew a loop through in step 2 – yarn over, and draw through one loop. 4 loops on hook.

7. Insert your hook into the next stitch of your foundation chain, yarn over, and draw through one loop. 5 loops on hook.

8. Insert your hook into the next stitch of your foundation chain, yarn over, and draw through one loop. You should now have 6 loops on hook. Here’s a diagram of where each one was pulled through:

9. Yarn over, and draw through all 6 loops, and chain 1 to close the stitch.

10. Repeat steps 4 – 9, until there is 1 stitch left of your foundation chain. Half double crochet into that stitch.

11. ROW 2: Chain 1, turn your work, and make a row of single crochet. It should look like this:

12. ROW 3: Chain 3, turn your work, and start from step 2 to make your next row of stars.

Classic star stitch 2

The closest alternative to the method above is to use rows of half double crochet in between your stars, rather than single crochet. The technique is exactly the same, except for at step 11, when you make a turning chain of two, and work a row of half double crochet stitches.

Can you see the difference?

The main difference between the two star stitches is height. Here you can see 6 rows of star stitch with alternate rows of single crochet on the left, and 5 rows of star stitch with alternate rows of half double crochet on the right. And they’re pretty much exactly the same size! Since the ‘star’ rows are very dense, creating more space between them with hdc stitches also makes the swatch on the left more supple. But, you do end up with a slightly conspicuous line between your rows of stars.

For freeform projects like scarves or blankets, you can try both and use whichever you prefer. But if you’re working to a pattern which specifies exactly which variation to use, don’t try to swap it for the other, because the difference in height will mess up your work.

Trinity stitch

Star stitch variations don’t come any simpler or cuter than this one! Trinity stitch is also based on forming spiked clusters, but this time on a smaller scale. However, it differs from the the classic star stitches in three ways:

• Every row is worked in the same way.
• It looks the same on both sides.
• It has a slightly waffle texture (the classic variations are much flatter).

To crochet trinity stitch:

1. Make a foundation chain with an even number of stitches.
2. Sc into the 2nd chain from the hook.
3. Put your hook through the same stitch again, yarn over and pull through. 2 loops on hook.
4. Put your hook through the 3rd chain, yarn over and pull through. 3 loops on hook.
5. Put your hook through the 4th chain, yarn over and pull through. 4 loops on hook.

Steps 3 – 5 are also known as sc3tog, or ‘single crochet 3 together’. It’s easy to see now how this stitch gets its name!

6. Yarn over and draw through all 4 loops.
7. Chain 1 to close the stitch
8. Repeat steps 3 – 5, using the 4th, 5th, and 6th stitches on your foundation chain. Don’t forget the 4th chain is also the last chain you used in your previous stitch!
9. Keep going to the end of the row. You should use every stitch of your foundation chain.
10. Add an sc into the last stitch of the foundation chain.
11. Chain 1 and turn your work.
12. Sc into the top of the sc from step 10.
13. And start again from step 3!

Harlequin stitch

Harlequin stitch is yet another cluster stitch which is closely related to the star stitch variations. But it’s much bigger! It’s traditionally worked in stripes to form a striking diamond checkerboard pattern. I haven’t really done the diamond pattern justice with my choice of yarn in this swatch, but you can still clearly see the big starbursts in the center of each stitch!

There’s a great video tutorial on how to crochet harlequin stitch. It’s worked over three rows, and it requires a lot of attention to counting!

Jasmine stitch

Finally, jasmine stitch is obviously named for its resemblance to the long oval petals of jasmine flowers. But this tactile and snuggly stitch could equally be compared to a grid of 6-pointed stars.

Despite its cute appearance, it’s a little notorious for being one of the trickier stitches to master. It is constructed from clusters of puff stitches, so achieving an even finish requires really steady tension, and accurately drawing through the same amount of yarn time and time again. Here’s a great tutorial explaining the process.

I think jasmine stitch is definitely worth experimenting with as an alternative to star stitch for your next crochet project. It’s a real ‘wow!’ stitch, which makes a high impact when used for throw pillows, jumbo blankets, or ultra-cosy snoods or cowls.

Some other stitches to consider

Still not seeing quite the right stitch for your next project? Here are three more options to look up.

• Catherine wheel stitch. Very similar to harlequin stitch, but swirlier. If you want your crochet stars to evoke a Vincent Van Gogh painting, this is the technique you need.
• Half Double Crochet V-stitch. HDC stitch is extremely quick and satisfying to work up. The cluster ‘stars’ aren’t as clearly defined as in the star stitch variations and substitutes, but the overall texture is definitely similar.
• Applique crochet stars. 5-point stars are super fast and easy to crochet in the round, and a fun way to use up short leftovers of yarn in your stash. If you can’t find a star stitch that works for you, this is a fun way to add a celestial nod of a different sort to your work!

Star stitch variations – summary

Star stitch variations tend to divide opinion. They’re undeniably beautiful, but inserting your hook into so many places that aren’t just the top of the next stitch means it’s hard to do well without giving it your full concentration. And if like me you like to crochet in front of a movie, that can be tricky! Still, I definitely think it’s work taking the time to experiment with some star stitch variations, because they’re all extremely satisfying. Learning how they’re constructed really cemented my admiration for the crafters who invented them too!

At the end of the day, I think my favorite star stitch variation is the trinity stitch. I’d love to hear what yours is in the comments box down below!

The post Star Stitch Variations – 5 Twinkling Possibilities appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

The Extended Single Crochet (ESC) is a stitch you’re pretty unlikely to be familiar with the first time you encounter it. It’s a useful transitional height between single and double crochet, with a pretty and reasonably solid texture when worked in consecutive rows. But despite its charm, most patterns use a half double stitch instead where an extended single crochet stitch would work. Here’s how to get started with ESC and use it in projects, so you can decide for yourself which mid-height stitch you prefer!

Contents

• How to work extended single crochet
• Extended single crochet turning chain
• How it compares to other stitches
• What to use it for
• Extra extended single crochet

Want to jazz up your extended crochet? Why not try out the surface crochet technique!

What is extended single crochet?

Extended single crochet is a type of stitch. As the name suggests, it’s slightly taller than a standard single crochet stitch. Overall, the height sits in between a single crochet and a double crochet, very close to – but fractionally shorter than – a half double crochet . In patterns, the abbreviation for an extended single crochet stitch is ESC, esc, or exsc.

Don’t forget! In UK terminology, the extended single crochet stitch is called the extended double crochet stitch. But it’s the same thing.

How to work extended single crochet

An extended single crochet is one of the easiest stitches to work:

1. Insert your hook front to back through a stitch, as if to make a single crochet.
2. Pull the yarn through.
3. Put the yarn over the hook and draw it through one loop.
4. Put the yarn over the hook again and it through both remaining loops.

You’re effectively making a chain stitch, with a single crochet stacked on top. Step 3 is the chain, and step 4 is the single crochet.

The turning chain

Ah turning chains, a small but important detail! The number of turning chains for extended single crochet stitch is one… or two. That’s right, depending on which set of instructions you read or tutorial you watch, you could be told to add a single turning chain or two turning chains to your foundation chain and the end of each row.

What gives?

Well, put simply, either will work. Since a turning chain of one is correct for single crochet, and a turning chain of three is correct for double crochet, it makes sense that a turning chain of two should be correct for a mid-height stitch like the ESC. But, since extended single crochet stands just under the halfway height between single and double crochet, one turning stitch can also be sufficient. To choose the number of turning chains for your project, you might like to work up a couple of swatches trialling both options. It might be that your yarn, hook size or tension really lend themselves to one option over the other. Or it might not matter which you choose!

In the samples I made for the photos accompanying this article, I used a single turning chain. And the video tutorial at the top of the page also uses a single turning chain. If you’d like to see how using two turning chains compares, you can see it in action here:

How does it compare to other stitches?

Extended single crochet is about 40% taller than regular single crochet. In fact, it’s very similar height-wise to half double crochet, as you can see here:

But the construction of ESC is less plush than a half double crochet. The shape and feel of a single crochet stacked on top of a chain stitch is quite slender and supple. Whereas drawing the yarn through three loops at once to create a half double crochet results in fabric that feels more dense and squashy. Despite this, ESC does use fractionally more yarn than HDC – but only about 3% more by my estimate!

Why and when to use extended single crochet

Extended single crochet is not a stitch which appears in patterns very often, and it almost never appears in lists of common stitches. Half double crochet is almost always used instead.

Despite this, several consecutive rows of extended single crochet have a pretty appearance which is relatively free from holes. It’s good for making facecloths, or adding interesting areas of texture to garments like scarves, tops and sweaters. When used in clothing, it is slightly more drape-y and fluid than half double crochet. ESC is also a useful addition to projects which play with lots of different types of stitch to create interest, such as crochet mandalas and mix-and-match stripe blankets. You can even use it to make a fetching blanket for your crochet elephant toy!

Extra extended single crochet

What’s this now? Well, we all love being a bit extra sometimes! An extra extended single crochet is worked like this:

1. Insert your hook front to back through a stitch, as if to make a single crochet.
2. Pull the yarn through.
3. Put the yarn over the hook and draw it through one loop.
4. Put the yarn over the hook and draw it through one loop again.
5. Then put the yarn over the hook one last time and draw it through both remaining loops.

The difference is highlighted in bold. Rather than working one chain and a single crochet in a vertical stack, you’re working two chains and a single crochet in a vertical stack. The resulting height is not dissimilar to double crochet. Like double crochet, it also starts to feel a bit more ‘gappy’ than shorter stitches.

Summary

In many ways, extended single crochet is just a more fiddly, more yarn hungry alternative to half double crochet, for when you need a stitch height in between single and double stitch. Which is why you’re unlikely to come across it in the wild very often. But, both ESC and its over the top sister extra-ESC do have a pretty texture, which is valuable for adding interest to clothing, crochet mandalas or blankets with stripes of mix-and-match stitches.

Have you come across the instruction exsc or esc in a pattern? Let us know in the comments box down below!

The post Extended Single Crochet Stitch appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Shell stitches are the easiest way for you to add texture and something special to your crochet projects. There are many crochet shell stitch variations for you to choose from, which all involve working multiple long stitches into one single stitch from the previous row, so they fan out in a clam shell shape. You could have a different shell stitch for every occasion! You will find big ones and small ones, solid ones and lacy ones, and even a choice of flat or three dimensional ones! I’d struggle to pick a favorite, but here are ten you ought to know about.

Contents

• What use are shell stitches?
• Picking your shell stitch
• 10 crochet shell stitch variations to try
• Tips for great results

What use are shell stitches?

Shell stitches are a classic of crochet. They are all characterized by clusters of double crochet stitches worked into one single stitch from your previous row, so that they fan out in a clam shell shape. You might consider them a bit kitsch, but modern crocheters are reinventing shells in fresh patterns which can’t be machine replicated. Shell stitches aren’t just a hallmark of your handmade craft however. You can use shell stitches to add visual interest and texture to all kinds of projects:

• Sweaters and cardigans.
• Light summer tops.
• Blankets – either use one shell stitch alone, or alternating with rows of other stitches for a striped afghan design.
• Scarves and shawls.
• Beanie hats.

The versatility of shell stitches means the original design has been modified many times!

Picking the right shell stitch

With so many crochet shell stitch variations to choose from, how should you pick one for your next project? If you are new to crochet, the solution is to pick a designer’s crochet shell stitch pattern with clear instructions. You experienced crocheters, making original scarves, blankets, snoods, shawls or ponchos without a pattern, you’ll need to consider density, drape and stitch scale.

Density

Some of your shell stitches are more ‘holey’ than others. This affects the garment’s warmth. Variations with big gaps between stitches are also more likely to snag on things, such as the hardware on your purse, or your baby’s fingers if used for a blanket.

Drape

Drape is closely linked to density. Dense shell stitches are more rigid, whilst ‘gappy’ shell stitches are more fluid. But fiber content and hook size also change how supple your crochet will be. You will want to experiment with a couple of swatches before embarking on something big like a blanket.

Scale

You’ll find shell stitches are shorter and/or narrower than others. The number of foundations stitches you need for each repeat varies from as few as 5, to as many as 14. Small crochet shell stitch variations can be monotonous for you to reproduce on a large scale, whilst large shell stitches might not work on small or narrow projects like your scarves and beanies, because there isn’t enough space for the pattern to really reveal itself and make an impact.

10 crochet shell stitch variations to try

If you haven’t made anything in a shell stitch before, here are 10 shell stitches for you to try:

• Classic, a.k.a. solid
• Stacked
• Iris
• Wavy
• 3D #1
• 3D #2
• 3D diamond
• Long loop
• Open
• Puffed

Classic shell stitch

The original shell stitch, also known as solid shell stitch because it is relatively un-gappy. The shells in each row are staggered, so that they nestle inside the dips between the shells of the row below. The result is a gentle undulating texture, which is perfect for cozy sweaters. Here’s how you make it:

Stacked shell stitch

All crochet shell stitch variations are either staggered, like the solid stitch above, or stacked, like this one. In stacked patterns, the point of each shell sits on the apex of the shell below it. The result is more bold and geometric, and an interesting mix of solid and see-through. It’s also a bit less yarn-hungry than the solid stitch, whilst remaining true to its roots. You crochet it like this:

Iris shell stitch

Is it technically a shell stitch? Some people wouldn’t classify this as one, but I’m not going to leave it out and rob you of the chance to decide for yourself! Iris shell stitch is one of the quickest to make, thanks to its stacked design, and a high proportion of chain stitches. It’s perfect for summer tops, and looks especially nice made in bamboo yarns. You will find it straightforward to make – you can learn the pattern in a snap here:

3D diamond shell stitch

This is one of those stitches which makes you wonder how anyone ever thought it up. That’s not to say it’s very complex or difficult – it’s surprisingly simple in fact. It looks especially good worked up in cotton thread, and reminds me of waffle blankets more than sea shells. But I’m not going to argue with the name, and I am going to take this opportunity to show it off, because I love it! It’s a great choice for you to make blankets with, because it traps a nice thick layer of warm air.

Follow along with a video tutorial here:

Tips for great results

Whichever take on shell stitch you’re going to try first, here are some tips for getting maximum satisfaction:

• Consider cotton yarn. You can use any yarn you like (all the swatches I made for this article are wool, or wool/nylon blends from my stash, for example). But cotton yarns and shell stitches really show off each other’s best qualities.
• Block your work. Once you’ve made the decision to use a visually interesting stitch, and put the time and effort into making it, you owe it to yourself to show it off properly. And that means blocking it.
• Try stripes. Shell stitches, especially variations where the rows are staggered look a-maz-ing in stripes.

Crochet shell stitch variations – summary

You have so many shell stitch variations to make, all following the same basic premise: if you put lots of long stitches into a single stitch from the previous row, the results look like a shell. Beyond that, there are lots of ways of using shell stitches depending on whether your want a warm and dense fabric, or a light and lacy one. My favorite use for shell stitches is on stash-busting striped afghan blankets, where every row is a different color and a different stitch. I’d love to hear what you use them for as well though! Do you have a favorite shell stitch? And don’t forget to try out a fun alternative – the extended version of the single crochet!

The post Crochet Shell Stitch Variations appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.