Crochet Rainbow Scarf Pattern

Begin this pattern with your 9mm crochet hook and rainbow chunky yarn.

Row 1

Make a chain of 20 stitches (ch20).

Row 2

Chain three (ch3) then slip stitch (sl st) into the forth stitch from the hook.

(Ch3, sl st into the next stitch) x 18.

Row 3 to 131

Chain 5, then slip stitch into the first chain three loop of the previous row.

(Ch3, sl st into the next chain loop) x 18.

Row 132

In the final row of the pattern, you are bringing the crochet rainbow scarf to a close.

Chain 5, then make a single slip stitch into each chain loop from the previous row.

Finishing Off Your Rainbow Crochet Scarf

It complete your crochet rainbow scarf, you will need to weave your joining ends and start and finish points back into the bulk of the scarf.

This pattern uses a multicoloured yarn, so remember that loose ends are best disguised by being woven into stitches with the same color section.

As the scarf is made up almost entirely of chains, weave your yarn needle in and out of each chain segment to most effectively hide your joining points.

Stitches and Techniques

To follow the most basic crochet pattern for fingerless mitts, you will need to know how to make a chain, double crochet, increase and decrease.

To crochet an increase, just make an additional crochet into the same loop. In the pattern I will put ‘2dc’ instead of ‘dc’, to denote two double crochets instead of one double crochet.

Crocheting a decrease is a little more complicated than an increase. You will begin the stitch in the same way that you usually do, but before you make the final yarn over and through, you move into the next stitch.

• Yarn over your hook.
• Hook through the stitch.
• Yarn over the hook and pull through the stitch.
• Yarn over the hook again and pull through the first two loops.
• Yarn over and insert your hook through the next stitch along.
• Yarn over and pull through the stitch
• Yarn over and pull through the first two loops
• Yarn over and pull through all three remaining loops on the hook.

How to crochet a puff stitch

A puff stitch is a way of making your crochet raised and textured. It is quite literally, puffed out. You will need to hold out the yarn during the stitch, repeatedly yarning over to create this effect.

Sizing your fingerless gloves

My crochet fingerless glove patterns are designed for women’s adult sized hands, of a small to average width around the wrist.

If you have larger or smaller hands than the sizes suggested, wrap the initial chain around your knuckles before you begin. If the chain feels tight then add a couple of loops, if it’s loose undo a couple.

Just remember to adjust the count on the subsequent rows!

Basic Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern

The basic crochet fingerless gloves pattern produces short, chunky hand warmer style of fingerless gloves. They are a loose fit, easy to pop on and off and will fit most adult hand sizes, male and female. Great for wearing with your long sleeve tops.

For this crochet pattern you will need:

• Size J / 6mm crochet hookPaid Link
• 50g DK yarn in a single color
• Scissors
• Yarn needlePaid Link

The bracketed number at the end of each row is a stitch count, to help you make sure you are on the right track as you go along.

Row 1

Chain (ch) 27 stitches, slip stitch (sl st) to join as a circle (27)

Row 2

*Ch2, then dc (US) into the 3rd stitch from the hook. Dc into the next 26 stitches. Sl st into the top of the initial chain to join. (27)

Row 3 to 5

Repeat from * (27)

You are now beginning to make your thumb hole. The next few rows will not continue in a circle, but will leave a large gap.

Row 6

Ch2, dc into the 3rd st from the hook. Dc once into the next 22 stitches. Ch2 from the final stitch. (23)
Turn over the glove

Row 7

dc into 3rd st from the hook. Dc once into next 22 stitches. (23)

Turn over the glove

Row 8

ch2, 2dc into next st, dc once into next 21 st, 2dc into final st of the row. Sl st to join. (25)

You have now made the thumb hole.

Row 9

ch2, 2 x dc2tog, dc once into 18 st, 2 x dc2tog, sl st. (23)

Row 10

ch2, 2 x dc2tog, dc once into next 12 st, then 2 x dc2tog, sl st (17)

At the end of the row cut off a long tail or yarn, and weave it back into the glove.

Simple Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern

These fingerless gloves are more tailored to the shape of your hand. Made to fit small to medium sized female hand and wrist diameters. The wool blend gives a very warm finish, although slightly rougher than some of the other materials.

The thick base stripe gives a defined finish to your glove, and completes the look.

You will need:

• 5mm crochet hook
• Aran Blend Wool – Approx 50g main color +10g accent color for both hand warmers
• Scissors
• Yarn needlePaid Link

Row 1

Chain (ch) 26, slip stitch (sl st) to join as a circle. (26)

Row 2

*ch2, then double crochet (dc) US into the back loop only (blo) of the 3rd chain from the hook. dc once into the next 25 stitches. Sl st into the top of the initial chain to join (26)

Row 3 and 4

ch2, dc into both loops of the 3rd stitch from the hook. dc once into each subsequent stitch. Sl st to join at the end of the row. (26)

We will now be working on opening a thumb hole in your hand warmer.

Row 5

ch2, dc into both loops of the 3rd stitch from the hook. dc once into the next 24 stitches. Do not join. (25)

Row 6 and 7

turn your glove over. Ch2, dc into the 3rd stitch from the hook. Dc once into the next 24 stitches. (25)

Row 8

turn your glove over. Ch2, dc into the same stitch you made the chain from. Dc once into the next 23 stitches. 2dc into the last st in the row. Sl st to join. (27)

You have now created your thumb hole. We will now be working a reduction for the final part of your hand.

Row 9

ch2, dc the next 2 stitches together twice ( 2 x dc2tog). Dc once into the next 18 st. 2 x dc2tog. Dc into the base of the initial chain. Sl st to join. (24)

Row 10

ch2, 2 x dc2tog. Dc once into the next 14 st. 2 x dc2tog. Dc into the base of the chain. Sl st to join. (20)

Row 11

ch2, dc2tog. Dc once into the next 14 st. dc2tog. Sl st to join, beginning your color change (cc) in this join. (18)

We will now be adding a little bit of length to the hand warmer, and working with your accent color

Row 12

ch 2, using the ch as the 1st st, dc once into each st in the round. Sl st to join. (18)

Row 13

ch 2, using the ch as the 1st st, dc once into each st in the round. Sl st to join. (18)

Row 14

ch 2, using the ch as the 1st st, dc once into each st in the round. Sl st to join. (18)

Finally to finish off, sew the ends into the body of your hand warmer using a yarn needle. Make sure to leave a generous tail when you cut off.

Striped Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern

These crocheted fingerless gloves contain a repetitive striping pattern, which gives them a more sculpted look when finished. The pale and dark contrast is nice and eye catching, and they follow a little further down your arm to give extra warmth.

You will need:

• 5mm crochet hook
• 50g dk blue wool, 50g dk purple (I used Women’s Institute acrylic yarn)
• Scissors
• Yarn needlePaid Link

Begin with the blue yarn.

Row 1

ch25, sl st to join

Row 2

ch2, dc into the next 24 stitches, sl st

Row 3

ch2, dc 24, cc, sl st

Row 4

ch2, dc 24, cc, sl st

Row 5

ch2, dc 24, sl st

You are now beginning your thumb hole. Do not join the next few rows at their end.

Row 6

ch2, dc 23, cc.

Row 7

ch2, dc 23, cc.

Row 8

ch2, dc 23

Row 9

ch2, dc into the based of the same chain as an increase. Dc into the next 22, 2dc into the final stitch, cc, sl st to join

Row 10

ch2, 2x dc2tog, dc into the next 18 stitches, 2x dc2tog, cc, sl st

Row 11

ch2, 2x dc2tog, dc 15, 2x dc2tog, sl st

Row 12

ch2, dc 19, cc, sl st

Row 13

ch2, dc 19, cc, sl st

Row 14

ch2, dc 19, sl st

Row 15

ch2, dc 19, sl st

Finally to finish off, sew the ends into the body of your hand warmer, using a yarn needle. Keep it to other areas that were worked in your blue yarn, so that the sewing doesn’t show through the pattern.

Warm Cuffed Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern

This crochet fingerless gloves pattern is similar to the one above, with reversed colors and a different style to your cuff.

You will need:

• 5mm crochet hook
• 50g dk blue wool, 50g dk purple (I used Women’s Institute acrylic yarn)
• Scissors
• Yarn needlePaid Link

Begin with the purple yarn.

Row 1

ch25, sl st to join

Row 2

ch2, dc into the next 24 stitches, sl st

Row 3

ch2, dc 24, cc, sl st

Row 4

ch2, dc 24, cc, sl st

Row 5

ch2, dc 24, sl st

You are now beginning your thumb hole. Do not join the next few rows at their end.

Row 6

ch2, dc 23, cc.

Row 7

ch2, dc 23, cc.

Row 8

ch2, dc 23

Row 9

ch2, dc into the based of the same chain as an increase. Dc into the next 22, 2dc into the final stitch, cc, sl st to join

Row 10

ch2, 2x dc2tog, dc into the next 18 stitches, 2x dc2tog, cc, sl st

Row 11

ch2, 2x dc2tog, dc 15, 2x dc2tog, sl st

Row 12

ch2, dc 19, cc, sl st to join.

Section Two

You will now need to begin a separate piece, which we will incorporate as a cuff when completed.

Row 1

ch9, sl st

Row 2

ch2, dc into next 8 stitches.

Row 3

ch2, dc into next 8 stitches.

Remember to use the end of the previous chain as the final stitch or your rows will gradually decrease.

Row 4 to 15

ch2, dc into the next 8 stitches.

Row 16

join the cuff into a circle by dc-ing each stitch together

Row 13/16

Combining the cuff and glove. Dc on the inside of the cuff and glove around from row 12, once into each stitch and through the cuff’s edge.

Make sure you leave long tails when each part is complete, to securely sew it into the pattern.

Puff Stitch Cuffed Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern

The final pattern is my personal favorite. Wear these fingerless gloves with longer sleeves. They have a defined short puff stitch cuff. This thick stitch keeps this normally exposed area from catching a chill, as well as providing some definition and styling.

You will need:

• 5mm crochet hook
• 50g grey wool blend aran yarn (I used Patons)
• 50g pink dk yarn
• Scissors
• Yarn needlePaid Link

Row 1

chain 27, sl st

Row 2

ch2, dc into the next 26, color change, sl st

Row 3

ch2, dc 26, sl st

Row 4

ch2, dc 26, color change, sl st

Row 5

ch2, dc 26, sl st

Row 6

ch2, dc 26, cc.

Row 7

ch2, dc 26

Row 8

ch2, dc 26, cc.

Row 9

ch2 & dc, 25 dc, 2dc, sl st

Row 10

ch2, 2 x dc2tog, dc 20, 2 x dc2tog, cc, sl st

Row 11

ch2, 2 x dc2tog, dc 16, 2 x dc2tog

Row 12

ch2, 2 x dc2tog, dc 17, cc, sl st

We are now going to make the cuff using puff stitches

Row 13

ch2, puff stitch, ch 2, sl st into the next stitch, *ch2 from the sl st, puff stitch into the next st, ch2 from the puff stitch, sl st into the next st. Repeat from * until rows end.

There aren’t really many rules about the best yarn for crochet scarf projects. Scarf yarn can be fine, chunky, natural, synthetic, brightly pigmented and twisted with metallic fibers, or vegetable dyed in soft neutral colors. Crochet scarves are also a great opportunity for you to dabble with yarns you haven’t tried before, or use up leftovers from past projects. But within that ‘anything goes’ approach, there are a couple of yarn properties to bear in mind, which will affect the finished result of your work. And of course, everyone ends up with their own preferred fibers for scarf projects. So here’s what you need to think about, and also some tried and tested favorites.

• Picking your ideal scarf yarn
• Your 10 top choices

Picking your ideal scarf yarn

Crochet scarves are the perfect opportunity for experimenting with unusual and unexpected yarns. You’ll never be too depressed if you end up frogging your work a little way in. But if you prefer reliable results without the trial and error, here are some properties to look for in dreamy scarf yarns.

Fiber content. Most people’s priority for a scarf is warmth, so choosing a fiber with great insulating properties is a no brainer. Wools such as lambs’ wool, merino wool, alpaca and cashmere are all exceptional at trapping warm air close to your skin. They’re also sustainable, non-static, and resistant to odors, moisture and fire. Acrylic yarns were originally developed to mimic the properties of lambs’ wool for a cheaper price, but they’re generally less breathable, hold their shape less well, and more likely to build up static.

Pilling. Pilling is caused by friction on the surface of your yarn. The tiny filaments which stick out from the yarn’s surface get tangled up in each other and form little clumps. Fuzzy fibers and singe-plied, loosely twisted yarns pill fastest. Most wools and acrylics are fuzzy by definition to trap warm air, but yarns with two or more plies and a pronounced twist are more efficient at keeping those pesky filaments in check. Meaning they pill more slowly.

Weight. There are no rules about what weight of yarn you can and can’t use for making scarves. Light yarns drape beautifully and can be tucked inside a cost. Whilst bulky yarns are quick to work up, and look strikingly modern. It’s fine to stick within your comfort zone, or use your scarf as a chance to experiment with a yarn weight you haven’t used before.

10 Top Choices

Whatever yarn you’re thinking of using a for making a crochet scarf, I encourage you to go for it! Have fun and see what happens. Report back in the comments section. But if you want a tried and tested yarn, you can’t go wrong with one of these.

Some of the images in this article are Amazon affiliate links, which I’ve added primarily so you can see what the yarns look like. We may also earn a small commission from Amazon (at no extra cost to you) if you make a purchase through them. However, the yarn suggestions are all my own, and we haven’t received any compensation from the manufacturers for including them.

1. Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick & Quick

Lion Brand Wool Ease* is one of the best known, most versatile yarns there is. This version is super bulky weight for using on a size M/13 (9mm) crochet hook. So it makes dense, snuggly scarves in next to no time. It’s 80% acrylic, which makes it versatile, super-washable, and affordable, and 20% wool, for warmth. It comes in 59 colors, including irresistible patterns, speckles, metallics and ombres. Since it’s so quick to work with and comes in so many shades, I love this yarn for making crochet scarves and snoods as gifts at Christmas.

2. Caron Simply Soft

Caron Simply Soft yarn* is a budget-friendly staple for lots of crafters. It’s 100% acrylic in worsted (a.k.a. aran) weight, but it’s soft, smooth, and drapes well. It comes in 50 solid colors, which are ideal for mixing and matching to make granny square scarves. It comes in generous 6oz balls, containing over 300yds of crochet potential.

3. Bernat Blanket

Blanket yarns that produce an ultra-tactile, chenille-like fabric are hugely popular right now. Not just for making blankets, but for plush toys with extra cuddle-ability too. And they also make fantastic scarves. The polyester fibers are wonderfully soft, so if you’re sensitive to having itchy or tickly materials next to your neck, this is a comfortable solution. What’s more Bernat’s blanket yarn* is machine washable and tumble dryer safe. It’s worked with a size L/11 (8mm) crochet hook and comes in over 80 colors including self striping rainbows.

4. Paton Classic Wool Worsted

Patons Classic Wool is the stuff of nostalgic knitwear dreams. Think fishermens’ sweaters with lovingly worked cables and ribbing. So it’s also perfect for timeless crochet scarves using dense, warm stitches like bean stitch, linen stitch, and trinity stitch. It’s spun from 100% new wool, meaning it’s breathable, odor- and stain-resistant, non-static, and warm. Even the most ardent natural fiber purist won’t be able to fault it.

5. Lion Brand Scarfie

What about a yarn specifically designed for making scarves? Lion Brand reckon they have just the thing in their Scarfie yarn*. It’s 78% acrylic and 22% wool, and one ball has enough yarn to finish one scarf. It’s designed to be worked on a size K/10.5 (6.5mm) crochet hook, so it’s heavier than worsted weight, but not massively chunky. It has a self striping ombre pattern, so it’s best suited to crochet scarves worked from end to end in rows (which also minimizes waste). My only criticism of this yarn is that it’s single plied and very loosely twisted, meaning it will be prone to pilling.

One rewarding possibility about making crochet scarves is that because they generally only require a skein or two of yarn, you might be able to use more luxurious fibers than you would be able to afford for larger projects. So the next three yarns are a little bit extra special.

6. Cascade 220 Superwash Merino

Merino yarns are my absolute favorite fiber to work with for soft and warm accessories like scarves, hats and mittens. This is a Ganni-inspired granny scarf I made recently from leftovers of merino yarn by various brands. Lucy is partial to it too – see which other yarns she recommends here. Cascade’s superwash worsted weight merino* is suitable for all kinds of projects and is both washable and tumble dryer safe. And it comes in 101 (yes 101!) solid colors.

7. Malabrigo Chunky

An alternative 100% merino weight yarn is the heavier Malabrigo Chunky*. It comes in over 50 beautifully hand dyed shades, all with subtle color changes within them that are extremely flattering to wear next your face. This wool is the perfect match for infinity scarves and snoods in simple stitches and styles that allow the beauty of the yarn to take center stage. Work it on a size K/10.5 (6.5mm) to M/13 (9mm) hook, and hand wash it gently.

8. Berocco Ultra Alpaca

Alpaca is a relatively unusual fiber, but it is soft, warm, moisture and flame-resistant, and sustainable. If you’ve never tried using it before, and you’d like to make your next crochet scarf a little bit extra special, give it a go with Berocco’s Ultra Alpaca yarn. It’s a worsted weight yarn made from 50% wool and 50% alpaca fleece. It comes in 30 sophisticated solid and variegated colors that mix and match beautifully together.

9. Malabrigo Caprino

Malabrigo’s Caprino yarn* is a decadent blend of 80% superfine merino and 20% cashmere. It’s hand dyed five skeins at a time, so that every inch is beautifully unique. It’s finer than any of the other yarns in this article – just sport weight. It would make a beautifully stylish crochet scarf to pair with a pea coat or blazer and wear to any occasion. It would also make an extremely special gift.

Third Style Granny Square

Make one granny square with the following color combinations.

Round 1

Begin with your brown yarn, or primary color.

• Make a chain of five stitches.
• Slip stitch into the first chain of the row to form a ring.
• Chain three as the first double crochet.
• Make two double crochets into the central loop
• *Chain three
• Make three double crochets into the central loop.
• Repeat two more times from the *.
• Slip stitch into the top of the first chain three, tie off and cut.

Round 2

• Chain three into one of the open corners of the square.
• Double crochet twice into the same corner.
• Chain three.
• Double crochet three times into the same corner.
• *Chain one.
• Into the next corner make three double crochets.
• Chain three.
• Make three further double crochet stitches into the same corner.
• Repeat two more times from the *.
• Slip stitch into the top of the first chain three, tie off and cut.

Round 3

• Chain three into one of the open corners of the square.
• Double crochet twice into the same corner.
• Chain three.
• Double crochet three times into the same corner.
• *Chain one.
• Make three double crochet stitches into the next space.
• Chain one.
• Into the next corner make three double crochets.
• Chain three.
• Make three further double crochet stitches into the same corner.
• Repeat two more times from the *.
• Slip stitch into the top of the first chain three, tie off and cut.

Round 4

Repeat round 3, extending the pattern for the increased length.

Change yarns to yellow or the second color.

Round 5 – 6

Repeat round 3, extending the pattern for the increased length.

Change yarns to brown or the first color.

Round 7

Repeat round 3, extending the pattern for the increased length.

Change yarns to yellow or the second color.

Round 8

Continue the pattern, increasing the central sections as the square grows.

Change yarns to variegated cream, or your third chosen color.

Round 9

Continue the pattern, increasing the central sections as the square grows.

Change yarns to cream, or your fourth chosen color.

Round 10

Continue the pattern in the new colored yarn.

Fourth Style Granny Square

Create a final style of granny square.

Round 1

Begin with your brown yarn, or primary color.

• Make a chain of five stitches.
• Slip stitch into the first chain of the row to form a ring.
• Chain three as the first double crochet.
• Make two double crochets into the central loop
• *Chain three
• Make three double crochets into the central loop.
• Repeat two more times from the *.
• Slip stitch into the top of the first chain three, tie off and cut.

Round 2

• Chain three into one of the open corners of the square.
• Double crochet twice into the same corner.
• Chain three.
• Double crochet three times into the same corner.
• *Chain one.
• Into the next corner make three double crochets.
• Chain three.
• Make three further double crochet stitches into the same corner.
• Repeat two more times from the *.
• Slip stitch into the top of the first chain three, tie off and cut.

Round 3

• Chain three into one of the open corners of the square.
• Double crochet twice into the same corner.
• Chain three.
• Double crochet three times into the same corner.
• *Chain one.
• Make three double crochet stitches into the next space.
• Chain one.
• Into the next corner make three double crochets.
• Chain three.
• Make three further double crochet stitches into the same corner.
• Repeat two more times from the *.
• Slip stitch into the top of the first chain three, tie off and cut.

Round 4

Repeat round 3, extending the pattern for the increased length.

Change yarns to yellow or the second color.

Round 5 – 8

Continue the pattern, increasing the central sections as the square grows.

Change yarns to variegated cream, or your third chosen color.

Round 9

Continue the pattern, increasing the central sections as the square grows.

Change yarns to plain cream, or your fourth color.

Round 10

Continue the pattern in the new colored yarn.

Sewing Granny Squares Together

Take your squares and put them into an order that you’re happy with. Lay them out on a hard surface, and then turn them upside down. The rougher side should be facing you.

Cast your cream or fourth colored yarn onto your hook. Put your hook through the first set of adjoining corner spaces, so that both granny squares are hanging on the same hook. Yarn over, pull the yarn through the gaps, yarn over again, and pull through both loops.

Repeat this motion moving through every pair of stitches, corner to corner.

You’re going to join each set of squares in the same fashion.

• What you’ll need to crochet your hat
• Stitches and pattern instructions
• Easy crochet hat pattern

Nothing beats a good hat when the weather is chilly. I must admit I am very pleased with this one. I hope that you enjoy making and wearing it as much as I have!

Easy Crochet Hat Equipment

To follow this easy crochet hat pattern you will need the following crochet equipment:

• 220 yards / 150g aran weight Lion Brand Landscapes Charcoal YarnPaid Link
• Size I / 5.5mm Crochet HookPaid Link
• Yarn NeedlePaid Link
• Stitch MarkersPaid Link

I am a real fan of this Lion Brand yarn. You have lots of colors to choose from, so you can pick the one which suits you best. It works up very nicely, and has a lovely soft finish. It is also quite tough for such a gentle yarn.

Easy Crochet Hat Stitches & Pattern Instructions

To make this easy crochet hat you will need to use a few different crochet techniques including:

• Magic Circle
• Single Crochet (US terms)
• Double Crochet (US terms)
• Puff Stitch

The easy crochet pattern will be given using abbreviations, but with full instructions in italics underneath for those newer to reading crochet patterns.

Easy Crochet Hat Pattern

Your easy crochet hat is worked in a continuous circular pattern.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches. (8)

Round 2

Put 2 single crochets (2sc) into each stitch. (16)

Round 3

Make 1 puff stitch (1PS) in the first stitch, then 1 double crochet (1dc) into the next.

Then continue in the same pattern (1ps, 1dc) x 7. (16)

Round 4

(1dc, 2dc) x 8. (24)

Make 1 double crochet in the first stitch, then two double crochets in the next, continuing in this fashion for the duration of the round. 

Round 5

(1ps, 2dc, 1ps) x 8. (32)

Make 1 puff stitch in the first stitch, then 2 double crochets into the next stitch, then 1 puff stitch into the following stitch. Repeat for the length of the round. 

Keep It Going!

Round 6

(1ps, 1dc, 1ps, 2dc) x 8. (40)

Make 1 puff stitch in the first stitch, then 1 double crochet into the next stitch, then 1 puff stitch into the following stitch, then 2 double crochet into the stitch after that. Repeat for the length of the round. 

Round 7

(1ps, 1ps, 2dc, 1ps, 1ps) x 8. (48)

Make 1 puff stitch into each of the first two stitches, then 2 double crochet into the next stitch, then 1 puff stitch into the following two stitches. Repeat for the length of the round. 

Round 8

(1dc, 1ps, 1ps, 2dc, 1ps, 1ps) x 8. (56)

Make 1 double crochet into the first stitch, then 1 puff stitch into the next two stitches. Next make 2 double crochets into the following stitch, and finish this pattern with 1 puff stitch in the next two stitches. Repeat for the length of the round. 

Round 9 – 19

(1ps, 1dc) x 8. (56)

To work the body of the hat, alternate a puff stitch into one stitch, then a double crochet into the next. Follow this repetitive pattern of alternating stitches from round 9 to round 19. 

Round 20

• Put 1 single crochet into each stitch.
• At the end of the round, slip stitch into the next stitch, cut off the yarn and tie off.
• Then sew the loose end back into the body of the hat using your yarn needle.

These crochet boot cuff patterns are quick, simple to follow, don’t use a lot of yarn and are very beginner friendly. I’ll walk you through the entire process, showing you how to easily crochet your own stylish, fun boot cuffs.

• The techniques you’ll need.
• Sizing your crochet boot cuffs.
• 4 crochet boot cuff patterns.

Boot cuffs give the impression of a thick sock, raised lining or leg warmer under your shoe. Wear them raised a couple of inches above the rim of your boot for a funky crochet accessory to your wardrobe.

Crochet Boot Cuff Techniques

For the patterns below you will need to be comfortable with a few simple stitches and techniques.

They all require chains and slip stitches. Some make use of my current fad – the puff stitch. And for a few you will need to be happy with making a double crochet or a treble crochet.

Remember, in my patterns I always refer to US terms as that’s what I learned to crochet using and am most comfortable with. If you have trouble translating US to UK crochet terms, then check out this UK vs US double crochet article for clarification.

Sizing your Crochet Boot Cuffs

Before we begin, we need to have a little look at sizing your crochet boot cuffs. We all come in a fantastic range of shapes and sizes, and although boot cuffs have a certain amount of ‘give’ or stretch to them, these patterns were written for my calf sizes.

So you may have to adjust them to fit your own legs, and just as importantly your own boots!

Crochet boot cuffs and boot length

When I wrote these patterns I designed them to be worn with high leg boots, so I made the initial chain around the thickest part of my calf.

The boots I chose to picture the cuffs in (because they were a lot less scruffy!) are ankle boots, and to fit snugly into them the initial chain would obviously need to be considerably shorter than for my thigh.

How to size your crochet boot cuffs

Before you begin your crochet boot cuff, decide which pair of boots you want to wear them with. Pop the boots on and with a biro draw a mark on your leg where the top of the boot finishes. (That’s right – I am giving you, an adult, permission to draw on yourself.)

When you have a mark at the appropriate point on your leg, make the chain length instructed in the pattern. Take this chain and wrap it around your leg a couple of cm’s (an inch) above the biro mark.

• If the last chain reaches the first to form a fairly snug circle then carry on with the pattern.
• If the chain feels tight around your leg add links until it feels snug but not tight.
• If the chain feels like undo links until it sits snugly against your skin.

Remember, for different patterns using varying yarn types or hooks, you will need a different length of chain.

So repeat this process with each pattern you begin to make sure, and for the fitted crochet boot cuff pattern you will need a slightly different method. The fitted crochet boot cuff does not build from an initial looping chain, it increases row by row. In this case simply add rows until your cuff fits neatly around the appropriate part of your leg.

Granny Stitch Crochet Boot Cuffs

If you are a fan of the granny square, then this is the crochet boot cuff for you. This pattern reflects that traditional, still popular crochet pattern that we are all so fond of.

I have finished the pattern off with a simple border, which enhances the granny stitching with it’s simplicity.

Granny Stitch crochet boot cuffs equipment

For this pattern you will need a 7mm hook, 50g of yarn and some scissors.

The yarn I chose was the Sirdar Click Chunky. A wool blend in the Winter Violet colours. I am a real fan of this member of the Sirdar range and have used it for a lot of things lately.

It’s very cosy and the colours look even better in real life.

Granny stitch crochet boot cuffs pattern

Row 1 – Chain (ch) 40, slip stitch (sl st) into the first ch to make a circle.
Row 2 – Ch2, double crochet (dc) into the next 2 st. *Chain 1, then dc into the next 3 stitches. Repeat from * to rows end, then sl st to join and cut off leaving a long tail.
Row 3 to 5 – Ch2, double crochet (dc) into the next 2 st. *Chain 1, then dc into the next 3 stitches. Repeat from * to rows end, then sl st to join and cut off leaving a long tail.
Row 6 – Ch 3, Treble crochet (tr) into the next 39. Sl st to join at the end of the row.

Finally sew in all of your loose ends to finish.

Fitted Crochet Boot Cuffs

The fitted crochet boot cuff has a repetitive pattern, forming a tight and tidy addition to your outfit.

With this pattern the most important thing is to work on getting the stitches consistent, keeping the tension even in your yarn as you work so that it flows smoothly.

Fitted crochet boot cuffs equipment

For this crochet boot cuffs pattern you will require a 7mm hook, 50g of yarn and some scissors.

The yarn I chose was a double knit cream one, soft in texture, light but strong. You will find similar types in the Sirdar bonus range.

Fitted crochet boot cuffs pattern

Row 1 – Make a chain (ch) of 4 stitches (12 + 2 stitches)
Row 2 – Double crochet (dc) into the 3rd ch from the hook. Dc once into each subsequent chain in the row.
Row 3 – *Ch 3. Dc into the next 11 st.

Don’t forget to dc into the top of the chain at the row’s end, or you will find the pattern decreases in size as you continue.

Row 4 to 28 – Repeat from *
Row 29 – Decide which side of the crochet you want to be the outside, and face that side away from you. From the first stitch of the row, slip stitch into the comparative stitch on the original row. Slip stitch every stitch together in this manner. To finish leave a long train to sew in, and then turn the crochet boot cuff the correct way out.

Puff Stitch Crochet Boot Cuffs

The puff stitch crochet boot cuffs are some of my favourite. The variation in crochet techniques gives them a lovely texture.

The yarn I chose is reminiscent of the 80’s leg warmers that boot cuffs can reflect.

Puff stitch crochet boot cuffs equipment

For this crochet boot cuffs pattern you will need a 7mm hook, 50g of yarn and some scissors.

The yarn I used was a standard grey double knit from my yarn scraps draw. I am afraid that I don’t know the brand- it was one I picked up several months ago and a garden centre and I am afraid to say I have lost the label. If I come across it again I will update this!

Puff stitch crochet boot cuffs pattern

Row 1 – Chain (ch) 38, slip stitch (sl st) to join as a circle
Row 2 – Ch2, then double crochet (dc) into each subsequent stitch. Sl st to join.
Row 3 – Ch2, *puff stitch into the next stitch, ch1, repeat from *. Sl st to join
Row 4 – Ch2, dc into each subsequent stitch. Sl st to join.
Row 5 – Ch2, *puff stitch into the next stitch, ch1, repeat from *. Sl st to join
Row 6 to 8 – Ch2, dc into each subsequent stitch. Sl st to join.

At the end of the row cut off and sew in the loose ends.

Striped Crochet Boot Cuffs

These crochet boot cuffs are more fitted than the others due to their increased length. I use mine to give an almost stocking-like effect. They can be worn a bit higher up the leg than the crochet patterns above.

Or you can wear them lower with just the pattern peeking out, to give your leg a bit of extra warmth or padding in a less comfortable boot!

Striped crochet boot cuffs equipment

For this crochet boot cuffs pattern I used a 7mm hook, 50g of yarn in purple, 20g of yarn in grey and some scissors.

The yarn I used was Patons wool blend aran, in ‘burgundy tweed’ and ‘airforce colours’.  This yarn has a slightly rougher texture, but isn’t abrasive. It’s also fairly close in texture so it’s nice and warm.

Striped crochet boot cuffs pattern

Row 1 – Chain (ch) 40, slip stitch (sl st) to join
Row 2 – Ch2, dc into each subsequent stitch. Sl st to join.
Row 3 – Ch2, dc into each subsequent stitch. Colour change. Sl st to join.
Row 4 – Ch2, dc into each subsequent stitch. Sl st to join.
Row 5 – Ch2, dc into each subsequent stitch. Colour change. Sl st to join.
Row 6 – Ch2, dc into each subsequent stitch. Sl st to join.
Row 7 to 8– Ch2, dc2tog x 3, dc into each remaining stitch in the row. Sl st to join.
Row 9 – Ch 2, dc2tog x 2, dc into each remaining stitch in the row. Sl st to join.

At the end of the row cut off and sew in the loose ends.