Crochet Garments Archives - Lucy Kate Crochet

Crochet Granny Square Slipper Pattern

Sarah Holloway — Mon, 18 Nov 2024 14:24:31 +0000

How cute is this crochet granny square slipper pattern?! They’re constructed from just six squares each, so they’re perfect for when you fancy making a granny square project, but you haven’t got the time or the will to embark on something big like a blanket. They’ve got a cosy homespun feel which really does feel like a warm hug for your toes, so they’re a fantastic gift too – for someone you love or just for you!

Getting the right size

Since these slippers have a soft sole, they’re a bit like socks when it comes to sizing. In other words, one size will fit several sizes of feet. If you follow this pattern exactly, the slippers will fit roughly ladies’ shoes size 6 – 9 (UK 4 – 7, EU 37 – 40). To make slippers outside of that size range, you’ll need to adapt the size of your granny squares. Don’t let that put you off though, it’s pretty straight forward to do, and I’m going to walk you through it step-by-step.

Basically, the diagonal size of your granny squares needs to be half the circumference of your foot at the widest point. Here’s a worked example of how to measure you feet and calculate the right granny square size for a perfect pair of custom made-to-measure slippers:

Measure the circumference around the ball of your foot, right above the toes. My feet measure 9” (23cm) around this point.
Divide that number in half. Which gives me 4½” (11.5cm). This is how big your granny squares need to be from corner to corner.

It’s not all that intuitive to think about granny squares in terms of their diagonal size, so here’s a handy dandy online calculator for finding out how long the sides will need to be. From it I found out that the sides of my granny squares need to be approximately 3¼” (8.5cm).

My granny square pattern

Here’s the pattern I came up with to make granny squares the right size for my slippers. You can make small adjustments to the size of this pattern by making the 4th round in single crochet (for a smaller square) or double crochet (for a larger square). Or you can come up with your own design for a granny square the right size, and meet me again at the assembly stage!

Remember, you’ll need 12 squares in total – 6 per slipper. I used aran weight yarns in pink, off-white, gray marl, and brown. Rather than using the size H-8 (5mm) hook suggested by the wrapper, I opted for a size G-6 (4.5mm) hook. Your slippers will hold their shape better if the tension is sturdy – since I tend to crochet on the loose side I’ve sized down to

Round 1

Start however you like to start your granny squares – with a magic circle, or with four chain stitches joined in a loop with a slip stitch.

Ch 3, dc 7, sl st into top of ch 3 to join.

Cut your yarn and weave in the ends.

Round 2

Join your next yarn color. This round consists of 8 cluster stitches of four double crochets, and the first one is worked a little bit differently to the rest.

For the first stitch:

Ch 3 – this creates the height you need to complete the round, and also counts as the first double crochet in the cluster.
Yarn over hook.
Insert hook into the same space you made the slip stitch join into.
Yarn over and pull through a loop (3 loops on hook).
Yarn over and draw through two loops (2 loops on hook).
Repeat steps 2 – 5 twice more (4 loops on hook – below left).
Yarn over and draw through all four loops (below center).
Ch 2 (below right).

For the rest of the stitches:

Yarn over hook.
Insert hook into the next space from round 1.
Yarn over and pull through a loop (3 loops on hook).
Yarn over and draw through two loops (2 loops on hook).
Repeat steps 1 – 4 three times (5 loops on hook – below left).
Yarn over and draw through all five loops (below center).
Chain 2 (below right).

After the last cluster stitch, chain 2 and join to the top of the first cluster stitch with a slip stitch. NOTE: The top of the stitch is the first chain you made to close the cluster, not the top of the ch 3. Cut the yarn, and weave in the ends.

Round 3

Join your next color of yarn into any of the chain spaces between the cluster stitches from round 2.

Into the same chain space, ch 5 (counts as 1 double crochet and 2 corner chains), dc 3.
Dc 3 into the next chain space.
(Dc 3, ch 2, dc 3) into the next chain space.
Repeat steps 2 and 3 twice more.
Dc 3 into the next chain space.
Dc into the same space you started in, and join with a slip stitch into the 4th chain from step 1.

Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.

Round 4

Join your fourth yarn shade into any of the corner spaces from round 3.

Into the same chain space, ch 4 (counts as 1 half-double crochet and 2 corner chains), hdc 2.
Skip the first stitch on the next side*, and hdc into all the remaining stitches.
(Hdc 2, ch 2, hdc 2) into the corner space.
Repeat steps 2 and 3 twice more.
Skip the first stitch on the next side*, and hdc into all the remaining stitches.
Hdc once into the corner space where you started, and join the round with a slip stitch into the 3rd chain from step 1.

* Only if you’re using half-double crochet for this round. If you’re using single or double crochet to modify the size of your square, work into every stitch of each side.

Cut your yarn, weave in the ends, and block your square. Make 11 more squares.

Crochet granny square slipper pattern: assembling stage

Squares made, it’s time to think about how you’re going to join them together. Here’s an illustration of how the squares are going to be pieced together:

I’ve labeled the corresponding sides, so 1a joins to 1a, and so on. Joins 1a and 1b can be made one after the other with without cutting the yarn in between. Joins 2a – 2d can also be made in one go, and likewise joins 3a – 3d.

Let’s start with the first join, along seams 1a and 1b.

I joined my granny squares mine using single crochet stitches – hold the squares right sides together, and insert the hook through the front and back loops of both squares. It’s a chunky join, which I love because it makes an aesthetic nod to moccasins. But I can feel the seams under my feet a bit, an if the thought of that puts you off, you could join your squares with a flat mattress stitch or whip stitch instead.

Adding the back of the heel

The next step is adding the back of the heel. Here’s a map for joining that square:

When you get to corner A, place two stitches in the corner space of the heel square – one for each of the other squares.
When you get to corner B, use three stitches to join the corner spaces, like this:

The final edge between corner B and the arrow head joins to the edge marked by the star – make sure the wrong sides of your squares are facing each other!
Treat corner B the same as corner A – make two stitches in the corner space of the heel square, one for each of the other squares.

Adding the last square

The sixth square sits on top of the foot.

If you fold in the side squares now, you can see now how that top square is going to join along all four edges.

Start at the top corner that’s going to sit above the arch of the foot, and work along the first edge (I prefer to move clockwise, but it’s not important).
In the next corner space make two stitches – one into the square that folds around the the side of the foot, and one into the square at the front of the sole.
In the corner which forms the toe point, make three stitches into the corner space.
And in the last corner space make two stitches – one into the square at the front of the sole and one into the square that folds around the the side of the foot.

When you get back to the corner you started in, don’t cut the yarn – you can dive straight into making the edging around the opening with it.

Adding a picot edging

This slipper is really starting to come together! Let’s add a picot edging around the opening, to give that edge a more polished look and tie it in with the seams. The edge is made in two rows, in a counter-clockwise direction. The direction is important to ensure to the little picot bobbles pop outwards, not inwards!

The first row is straight forward single crochet all the way round the edge.
The second row is a simple picot border based on a two-stitch repeat: sl st, dc. The short slip stitches push the tall double crochets outwards, making an attractive bobble edge.

Finish row two on a slip stitch, cut the yarn, and weave in all the ends from joining your squares.

Pompoms

The finishing touch on my slippers are some cute little pompoms. Not only do they look the part, they’re perfect for hiding the seam joins on the front of your slipper. Also if you’ve never made little pompoms on a fork before, prepare to discover a new crafting addiction!

Cut a 4” piece of yarn and hold it between the second and third tines of a fork (top left above).
Wrap yarn from the ball 20 – 30 times around all four tines.
Cut the yarn, and use the 4” piece to make an overhand knot around the center of your pom pom (top right above).
Poke the ends through to the other side of the fork, and tie two or three more knots to fully secure the center of the pompom (bottom left above).
Slip the pompom off the fork and carefully cut all the loops so your pompom opens out. Trim it into shape, and repeat the steps to make a second.
Make a chain of 12 stitches, and ties your pompoms to the ends (bottom right above).

Finally, use a short length of yarn to tie your pompoms to the front of your slipper.

Now make another one!

Repeat the whole process to make a second slipper, and then put them on and wear them with pride! Or in my case, notice them sneaking out of the room on the feet of my daughter. Luckily this quick and fun pattern is easy to make again and again! I hope you enjoy making it too.

The post Crochet Granny Square Slipper Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

5 Free Fingerless Gloves Crochet Patterns

Lucy Kate — Tue, 09 Jan 2024 12:11:00 +0000

I have five simple but stunning free fingerless gloves crochet patterns for you. You’ll work them up quickly, and produce gorgeous, cosy crochet hand warmers to keep your hands toasty in the cold weather.

Your crochet fingerless glove techniques.
Sizing your fingerless gloves.
Five free fingerless glove crochet patterns.

If you are a fairly confident crocheter, you will find that you can put together your crochet fingerless gloves within an hour. If you are new to crochet then it will take a little longer, but it should be a project that even someone totally fresh to the scene will be able to produce in the same day that they start it.

Stitches and Techniques

To follow the most basic crochet pattern for fingerless mitts, you will need to know how to make a chain, double crochet, increase and decrease.

To crochet an increase, just make an additional crochet into the same loop. In the pattern I will put ‘2dc’ instead of ‘dc’, to denote two double crochets instead of one double crochet.

Crocheting a decrease is a little more complicated than an increase. You will begin the stitch in the same way that you usually do, but before you make the final yarn over and through, you move into the next stitch.

Yarn over your hook.
Hook through the stitch.
Yarn over the hook and pull through the stitch.
Yarn over the hook again and pull through the first two loops.
Yarn over and insert your hook through the next stitch along.
Yarn over and pull through the stitch
Yarn over and pull through the first two loops
Yarn over and pull through all three remaining loops on the hook.

How to crochet a puff stitch

A puff stitch is a way of making your crochet raised and textured. It is quite literally, puffed out. You will need to hold out the yarn during the stitch, repeatedly yarning over to create this effect.

Sizing your fingerless gloves

My crochet fingerless glove patterns are designed for women’s adult sized hands, of a small to average width around the wrist.

If you have larger or smaller hands than the sizes suggested, wrap the initial chain around your knuckles before you begin. If the chain feels tight then add a couple of loops, if it’s loose undo a couple.

Just remember to adjust the count on the subsequent rows!

Basic Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern

The basic crochet fingerless gloves pattern produces short, chunky hand warmer style of fingerless gloves. They are a loose fit, easy to pop on and off and will fit most adult hand sizes, male and female. Great for wearing with your long sleeve tops.

For this crochet pattern you will need:

Size J / 6mm crochet hookPaid Link
50g DK yarn in a single color
Scissors
Yarn needlePaid Link

The bracketed number at the end of each row is a stitch count, to help you make sure you are on the right track as you go along.

Row 1

Chain (ch) 27 stitches, slip stitch (sl st) to join as a circle (27)

Row 2

*Ch2, then dc (US) into the 3rd stitch from the hook. Dc into the next 26 stitches. Sl st into the top of the initial chain to join. (27)

Row 3 to 5

Repeat from * (27)

You are now beginning to make your thumb hole. The next few rows will not continue in a circle, but will leave a large gap.

Row 6

Ch2, dc into the 3rd st from the hook. Dc once into the next 22 stitches. Ch2 from the final stitch. (23)
Turn over the glove

Row 7

dc into 3rd st from the hook. Dc once into next 22 stitches. (23)

Turn over the glove

Row 8

ch2, 2dc into next st, dc once into next 21 st, 2dc into final st of the row. Sl st to join. (25)

You have now made the thumb hole.

Row 9

ch2, 2 x dc2tog, dc once into 18 st, 2 x dc2tog, sl st. (23)

Row 10

ch2, 2 x dc2tog, dc once into next 12 st, then 2 x dc2tog, sl st (17)

At the end of the row cut off a long tail or yarn, and weave it back into the glove.

Simple Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern

These fingerless gloves are more tailored to the shape of your hand. Made to fit small to medium sized female hand and wrist diameters. The wool blend gives a very warm finish, although slightly rougher than some of the other materials.

The thick base stripe gives a defined finish to your glove, and completes the look.

You will need:

5mm crochet hook
Aran Blend Wool – Approx 50g main color +10g accent color for both hand warmers
Scissors
Yarn needlePaid Link

Row 1

Chain (ch) 26, slip stitch (sl st) to join as a circle. (26)

Row 2

*ch2, then double crochet (dc) US into the back loop only (blo) of the 3rd chain from the hook. dc once into the next 25 stitches. Sl st into the top of the initial chain to join (26)

Row 3 and 4

ch2, dc into both loops of the 3rd stitch from the hook. dc once into each subsequent stitch. Sl st to join at the end of the row. (26)

We will now be working on opening a thumb hole in your hand warmer.

Row 5

ch2, dc into both loops of the 3rd stitch from the hook. dc once into the next 24 stitches. Do not join. (25)

Row 6 and 7

turn your glove over. Ch2, dc into the 3rd stitch from the hook. Dc once into the next 24 stitches. (25)

Row 8

turn your glove over. Ch2, dc into the same stitch you made the chain from. Dc once into the next 23 stitches. 2dc into the last st in the row. Sl st to join. (27)

You have now created your thumb hole. We will now be working a reduction for the final part of your hand.

Row 9

ch2, dc the next 2 stitches together twice ( 2 x dc2tog). Dc once into the next 18 st. 2 x dc2tog. Dc into the base of the initial chain. Sl st to join. (24)

Row 10

ch2, 2 x dc2tog. Dc once into the next 14 st. 2 x dc2tog. Dc into the base of the chain. Sl st to join. (20)

Row 11

ch2, dc2tog. Dc once into the next 14 st. dc2tog. Sl st to join, beginning your color change (cc) in this join. (18)

We will now be adding a little bit of length to the hand warmer, and working with your accent color

Row 12

ch 2, using the ch as the 1st st, dc once into each st in the round. Sl st to join. (18)

Row 13

ch 2, using the ch as the 1st st, dc once into each st in the round. Sl st to join. (18)

Row 14

ch 2, using the ch as the 1st st, dc once into each st in the round. Sl st to join. (18)

Finally to finish off, sew the ends into the body of your hand warmer using a yarn needle. Make sure to leave a generous tail when you cut off.

Striped Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern

These crocheted fingerless gloves contain a repetitive striping pattern, which gives them a more sculpted look when finished. The pale and dark contrast is nice and eye catching, and they follow a little further down your arm to give extra warmth.

You will need:

5mm crochet hook
50g dk blue wool, 50g dk purple (I used Women’s Institute acrylic yarn)
Scissors
Yarn needlePaid Link

Begin with the blue yarn.

Row 1

ch25, sl st to join

Row 2

ch2, dc into the next 24 stitches, sl st

Row 3

ch2, dc 24, cc, sl st

Row 4

ch2, dc 24, cc, sl st

Row 5

ch2, dc 24, sl st

You are now beginning your thumb hole. Do not join the next few rows at their end.

Row 6

ch2, dc 23, cc.

Row 7

ch2, dc 23, cc.

Row 8

ch2, dc 23

Row 9

ch2, dc into the based of the same chain as an increase. Dc into the next 22, 2dc into the final stitch, cc, sl st to join

Row 10

ch2, 2x dc2tog, dc into the next 18 stitches, 2x dc2tog, cc, sl st

Row 11

ch2, 2x dc2tog, dc 15, 2x dc2tog, sl st

Row 12

ch2, dc 19, cc, sl st

Row 13

ch2, dc 19, cc, sl st

Row 14

ch2, dc 19, sl st

Row 15

ch2, dc 19, sl st

Finally to finish off, sew the ends into the body of your hand warmer, using a yarn needle. Keep it to other areas that were worked in your blue yarn, so that the sewing doesn’t show through the pattern.

Warm Cuffed Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern

This crochet fingerless gloves pattern is similar to the one above, with reversed colors and a different style to your cuff.

You will need:

5mm crochet hook
50g dk blue wool, 50g dk purple (I used Women’s Institute acrylic yarn)
Scissors
Yarn needlePaid Link

Begin with the purple yarn.

Row 1

ch25, sl st to join

Row 2

ch2, dc into the next 24 stitches, sl st

Row 3

ch2, dc 24, cc, sl st

Row 4

ch2, dc 24, cc, sl st

Row 5

ch2, dc 24, sl st

You are now beginning your thumb hole. Do not join the next few rows at their end.

Row 6

ch2, dc 23, cc.

Row 7

ch2, dc 23, cc.

Row 8

ch2, dc 23

Row 9

ch2, dc into the based of the same chain as an increase. Dc into the next 22, 2dc into the final stitch, cc, sl st to join

Row 10

ch2, 2x dc2tog, dc into the next 18 stitches, 2x dc2tog, cc, sl st

Row 11

ch2, 2x dc2tog, dc 15, 2x dc2tog, sl st

Row 12

ch2, dc 19, cc, sl st to join.

Section Two

You will now need to begin a separate piece, which we will incorporate as a cuff when completed.

Row 1

ch9, sl st

Row 2

ch2, dc into next 8 stitches.

Row 3

ch2, dc into next 8 stitches.

Remember to use the end of the previous chain as the final stitch or your rows will gradually decrease.

Row 4 to 15

ch2, dc into the next 8 stitches.

Row 16

join the cuff into a circle by dc-ing each stitch together

Row 13/16

Combining the cuff and glove. Dc on the inside of the cuff and glove around from row 12, once into each stitch and through the cuff’s edge.

Make sure you leave long tails when each part is complete, to securely sew it into the pattern.

Puff Stitch Cuffed Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern

The final pattern is my personal favorite. Wear these fingerless gloves with longer sleeves. They have a defined short puff stitch cuff. This thick stitch keeps this normally exposed area from catching a chill, as well as providing some definition and styling.

You will need:

5mm crochet hook
50g grey wool blend aran yarn (I used Patons)
50g pink dk yarn
Scissors
Yarn needlePaid Link

Row 1

chain 27, sl st

Row 2

ch2, dc into the next 26, color change, sl st

Row 3

ch2, dc 26, sl st

Row 4

ch2, dc 26, color change, sl st

Row 5

ch2, dc 26, sl st

Row 6

ch2, dc 26, cc.

Row 7

ch2, dc 26

Row 8

ch2, dc 26, cc.

Row 9

ch2 & dc, 25 dc, 2dc, sl st

Row 10

ch2, 2 x dc2tog, dc 20, 2 x dc2tog, cc, sl st

Row 11

ch2, 2 x dc2tog, dc 16, 2 x dc2tog

Row 12

ch2, 2 x dc2tog, dc 17, cc, sl st

We are now going to make the cuff using puff stitches

Row 13

ch2, puff stitch, ch 2, sl st into the next stitch, *ch2 from the sl st, puff stitch into the next st, ch2 from the puff stitch, sl st into the next st. Repeat from * until rows end.

The post 5 Free Fingerless Gloves Crochet Patterns appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Best Yarn For Crochet Scarf Projects

Sarah Holloway — Thu, 04 Jan 2024 10:15:10 +0000

There aren’t really many rules about the best yarn for crochet scarf projects. Scarf yarn can be fine, chunky, natural, synthetic, brightly pigmented and twisted with metallic fibers, or vegetable dyed in soft neutral colors. Crochet scarves are also a great opportunity for you to dabble with yarns you haven’t tried before, or use up leftovers from past projects. But within that ‘anything goes’ approach, there are a couple of yarn properties to bear in mind, which will affect the finished result of your work. And of course, everyone ends up with their own preferred fibers for scarf projects. So here’s what you need to think about, and also some tried and tested favorites.

Picking your ideal scarf yarn
Your 10 top choices

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lfYk-BO4bpA

Picking your ideal scarf yarn

Crochet scarves are the perfect opportunity for experimenting with unusual and unexpected yarns. You’ll never be too depressed if you end up frogging your work a little way in. But if you prefer reliable results without the trial and error, here are some properties to look for in dreamy scarf yarns.

Fiber content. Most people’s priority for a scarf is warmth, so choosing a fiber with great insulating properties is a no brainer. Wools such as lambs’ wool, merino wool, alpaca and cashmere are all exceptional at trapping warm air close to your skin. They’re also sustainable, non-static, and resistant to odors, moisture and fire. Acrylic yarns were originally developed to mimic the properties of lambs’ wool for a cheaper price, but they’re generally less breathable, hold their shape less well, and more likely to build up static.

Pilling. Pilling is caused by friction on the surface of your yarn. The tiny filaments which stick out from the yarn’s surface get tangled up in each other and form little clumps. Fuzzy fibers and singe-plied, loosely twisted yarns pill fastest. Most wools and acrylics are fuzzy by definition to trap warm air, but yarns with two or more plies and a pronounced twist are more efficient at keeping those pesky filaments in check. Meaning they pill more slowly.

Weight. There are no rules about what weight of yarn you can and can’t use for making scarves. Light yarns drape beautifully and can be tucked inside a cost. Whilst bulky yarns are quick to work up, and look strikingly modern. It’s fine to stick within your comfort zone, or use your scarf as a chance to experiment with a yarn weight you haven’t used before.

10 Top Choices

Whatever yarn you’re thinking of using a for making a crochet scarf, I encourage you to go for it! Have fun and see what happens. Report back in the comments section. But if you want a tried and tested yarn, you can’t go wrong with one of these.

Some of the images in this article are Amazon affiliate links, which I’ve added primarily so you can see what the yarns look like. We may also earn a small commission from Amazon (at no extra cost to you) if you make a purchase through them. However, the yarn suggestions are all my own, and we haven’t received any compensation from the manufacturers for including them.

1. Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick & Quick

Lion Brand Wool Ease* is one of the best known, most versatile yarns there is. This version is super bulky weight for using on a size M/13 (9mm) crochet hook. So it makes dense, snuggly scarves in next to no time. It’s 80% acrylic, which makes it versatile, super-washable, and affordable, and 20% wool, for warmth. It comes in 59 colors, including irresistible patterns, speckles, metallics and ombres. Since it’s so quick to work with and comes in so many shades, I love this yarn for making crochet scarves and snoods as gifts at Christmas.

2. Caron Simply Soft

Caron Simply Soft yarn* is a budget-friendly staple for lots of crafters. It’s 100% acrylic in worsted (a.k.a. aran) weight, but it’s soft, smooth, and drapes well. It comes in 50 solid colors, which are ideal for mixing and matching to make granny square scarves. It comes in generous 6oz balls, containing over 300yds of crochet potential.

3. Bernat Blanket

Blanket yarns that produce an ultra-tactile, chenille-like fabric are hugely popular right now. Not just for making blankets, but for plush toys with extra cuddle-ability too. And they also make fantastic scarves. The polyester fibers are wonderfully soft, so if you’re sensitive to having itchy or tickly materials next to your neck, this is a comfortable solution. What’s more Bernat’s blanket yarn* is machine washable and tumble dryer safe. It’s worked with a size L/11 (8mm) crochet hook and comes in over 80 colors including self striping rainbows.

4. Paton Classic Wool Worsted

Patons Classic Wool is the stuff of nostalgic knitwear dreams. Think fishermens’ sweaters with lovingly worked cables and ribbing. So it’s also perfect for timeless crochet scarves using dense, warm stitches like bean stitch, linen stitch, and trinity stitch. It’s spun from 100% new wool, meaning it’s breathable, odor- and stain-resistant, non-static, and warm. Even the most ardent natural fiber purist won’t be able to fault it.

5. Lion Brand Scarfie

What about a yarn specifically designed for making scarves? Lion Brand reckon they have just the thing in their Scarfie yarn*. It’s 78% acrylic and 22% wool, and one ball has enough yarn to finish one scarf. It’s designed to be worked on a size K/10.5 (6.5mm) crochet hook, so it’s heavier than worsted weight, but not massively chunky. It has a self striping ombre pattern, so it’s best suited to crochet scarves worked from end to end in rows (which also minimizes waste). My only criticism of this yarn is that it’s single plied and very loosely twisted, meaning it will be prone to pilling.

One rewarding possibility about making crochet scarves is that because they generally only require a skein or two of yarn, you might be able to use more luxurious fibers than you would be able to afford for larger projects. So the next three yarns are a little bit extra special.

6. Cascade 220 Superwash Merino

Merino yarns are my absolute favorite fiber to work with for soft and warm accessories like scarves, hats and mittens. This is a Ganni-inspired granny scarf I made recently from leftovers of merino yarn by various brands. Lucy is partial to it too – see which other yarns she recommends here. Cascade’s superwash worsted weight merino* is suitable for all kinds of projects and is both washable and tumble dryer safe. And it comes in 101 (yes 101!) solid colors.

7. Malabrigo Chunky

An alternative 100% merino weight yarn is the heavier Malabrigo Chunky*. It comes in over 50 beautifully hand dyed shades, all with subtle color changes within them that are extremely flattering to wear next your face. This wool is the perfect match for infinity scarves and snoods in simple stitches and styles that allow the beauty of the yarn to take center stage. Work it on a size K/10.5 (6.5mm) to M/13 (9mm) hook, and hand wash it gently.

8. Berocco Ultra Alpaca

Alpaca is a relatively unusual fiber, but it is soft, warm, moisture and flame-resistant, and sustainable. If you’ve never tried using it before, and you’d like to make your next crochet scarf a little bit extra special, give it a go with Berocco’s Ultra Alpaca yarn. It’s a worsted weight yarn made from 50% wool and 50% alpaca fleece. It comes in 30 sophisticated solid and variegated colors that mix and match beautifully together.

9. Malabrigo Caprino

Malabrigo’s Caprino yarn* is a decadent blend of 80% superfine merino and 20% cashmere. It’s hand dyed five skeins at a time, so that every inch is beautifully unique. It’s finer than any of the other yarns in this article – just sport weight. It would make a beautifully stylish crochet scarf to pair with a pea coat or blazer and wear to any occasion. It would also make an extremely special gift.

10. Yarn scraps

Finally, some of the best yarn for crocheting scarves is yarn you already have. Scarves are perfect for using up small quantities of wool which aren’t enough for anything else. Even the shortest scraps can be turned into a center on a granny square scarf. Scarves made with yarn scraps hold memories of all the projects which donated their leftovers to them too, which make them thrifty and extra special.

Best Yarn For Crochet Scarf Projects

There are practically no rules about the best yarn for crochet scarf projects, and even traditional wisdom like sticking to wool and acrylic can be overturned. Slinky silk and bamboo crochet scarves are perfect for practising decorative stitches and keeping the chill out in early autumn, for example. I’ve shown you some reliable favorites that you can’t go wrong with, but I’d love to hear which yarns you’ve made beautiful scarves in too. Share your experiences in the comments box down below!

The post Best Yarn For Crochet Scarf Projects appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Yarn Scrap Granny Square Scarf Pattern

Lucy Kate — Mon, 06 Nov 2023 18:39:49 +0000

This free yarn scrap granny square scarf pattern is a great way to use up your partial skeins, and make a gorgeous item of crocheted clothing in the process. It’s beginner friendly and you can use pretty much any yarn type. This project will help you to use up that precious scrap yarn in a fun and productive way.

The pattern
Joining your granny squares together
Creating a border

I have laid this design out in clear steps, so that even someone brand new to crocheting should have no trouble following along.

I made this crochet scarf from yarn skeins left over from my recent crochet plushie designs. I hate waste, and I love crocheted scarves. What could be better!

I made four different color changes within my scarf. So three granny squares are identical, and the remaining three squares all differ. This enabled me to work with the yarn I had left over, although I still had some nerve wracking yarn chicken moments finishing the edges!

Yarn Scraps, Hooks and More

The partial scrap skeins I used to make this scarf included four different aran yarns.

Brown aran yarn (first color)
Yellow aran yarn (second color)
Mixed cream aran yarn (third color)
Cream aran yarn (fourth color)
5mm crochet hook
Yarn needle (optional for sewing in the ends)

Because this pattern is designed for using up your scrap skeins of yarn, you can swap any colors you like over. So in the pattern I’ve given you instructions noting both the colors I used, by numbering the colors too so if you’re using different ones you can still easily follow along.

The Main Granny Square Scarf Pattern

Create three squares with the following pattern:

Round 1

Begin with your brown yarn, or primary color.

Make a chain of five stitches.
Slip stitch into the first chain of the row to form a ring.
Chain three as the first double crochet.
Make two double crochets into the central loop
*Chain three
Make three double crochets into the central loop.
Repeat two more times from the *.
Slip stitch into the top of the first chain three, tie off and cut.

Round 2

Chain three into one of the open corners of the square.
Double crochet twice into the same corner.
Chain three.
Double crochet three times into the same corner.
*Chain one.
Into the next corner make three double crochets.
Chain three.
Make three further double crochet stitches into the same corner.
Repeat two more times from the *.
Slip stitch into the top of the first chain three, tie off and cut.

Swap yarns to yellow or your second color.

Round 3

Chain three into one of the open corners of the square.
Double crochet twice into the same corner.
Chain three.
Double crochet three times into the same corner.
*Chain one.
Make three double crochet stitches into the next space.
Chain one.
Into the next corner make three double crochets.
Chain three.
Make three further double crochet stitches into the same corner.
Repeat two more times from the *.
Slip stitch into the top of the first chain three, tie off and cut.

Round 4 – 5

Repeat round 3, extending the pattern for the increased length.

Change yarns to variegated cream or the third color.

Round 6 – 9

Continue the pattern, increasing the central sections as the square grows.

Change yarns to plain cream, or your fourth chosen color.

Round 10

Continue the pattern in the new colored yarn.

Second Style Granny Square

Create one of the following:

Round 1

Begin with your brown yarn, or primary color.

Make a chain of five stitches.
Slip stitch into the first chain of the row to form a ring.
Chain three as the first double crochet.
Make two double crochets into the central loop
*Chain three
Make three double crochets into the central loop.
Repeat two more times from the *.
Slip stitch into the top of the first chain three, tie off and cut.

Round 2

Chain three into one of the open corners of the square.
Double crochet twice into the same corner.
Chain three.
Double crochet three times into the same corner.
*Chain one.
Into the next corner make three double crochets.
Chain three.
Make three further double crochet stitches into the same corner.
Repeat two more times from the *.
Slip stitch into the top of the first chain three, tie off and cut.

Swap yarns to variegated cream or your third color.

Round 3

Chain three into one of the open corners of the square.
Double crochet twice into the same corner.
Chain three.
Double crochet three times into the same corner.
*Chain one.
Make three double crochet stitches into the next space.
Chain one.
Into the next corner make three double crochets.
Chain three.
Make three further double crochet stitches into the same corner.
Repeat two more times from the *.
Slip stitch into the top of the first chain three, tie off and cut.

Swap to yellow or your second color yarn.

Round 4

Repeat round 3, extending the pattern for the increased length.

Change yarns to brown or the first color.

Round 5

Repeat round 3, extending the pattern for the increased length.

Change yarns to yellow or the second color.

Round 6 – 7

Continue the pattern, increasing the central sections as the square grows.

Change yarns to variagated cream, or your third chosen color.

Round 8 – 9

Continue the pattern, increasing the central sections as the square grows.

Change yarns to cream, or your fourth chosen color.

Round 10

Continue the pattern in the new colored yarn.

Third Style Granny Square

Make one granny square with the following color combinations.

Round 1

Begin with your brown yarn, or primary color.

Make a chain of five stitches.
Slip stitch into the first chain of the row to form a ring.
Chain three as the first double crochet.
Make two double crochets into the central loop
*Chain three
Make three double crochets into the central loop.
Repeat two more times from the *.
Slip stitch into the top of the first chain three, tie off and cut.

Round 2

Chain three into one of the open corners of the square.
Double crochet twice into the same corner.
Chain three.
Double crochet three times into the same corner.
*Chain one.
Into the next corner make three double crochets.
Chain three.
Make three further double crochet stitches into the same corner.
Repeat two more times from the *.
Slip stitch into the top of the first chain three, tie off and cut.

Round 3

Chain three into one of the open corners of the square.
Double crochet twice into the same corner.
Chain three.
Double crochet three times into the same corner.
*Chain one.
Make three double crochet stitches into the next space.
Chain one.
Into the next corner make three double crochets.
Chain three.
Make three further double crochet stitches into the same corner.
Repeat two more times from the *.
Slip stitch into the top of the first chain three, tie off and cut.

Round 4

Repeat round 3, extending the pattern for the increased length.

Change yarns to yellow or the second color.

Round 5 – 6

Repeat round 3, extending the pattern for the increased length.

Change yarns to brown or the first color.

Round 7

Repeat round 3, extending the pattern for the increased length.

Change yarns to yellow or the second color.

Round 8

Continue the pattern, increasing the central sections as the square grows.

Change yarns to variegated cream, or your third chosen color.

Round 9

Continue the pattern, increasing the central sections as the square grows.

Change yarns to cream, or your fourth chosen color.

Round 10

Continue the pattern in the new colored yarn.

Fourth Style Granny Square

Create a final style of granny square.

Round 1

Begin with your brown yarn, or primary color.

Make a chain of five stitches.
Slip stitch into the first chain of the row to form a ring.
Chain three as the first double crochet.
Make two double crochets into the central loop
*Chain three
Make three double crochets into the central loop.
Repeat two more times from the *.
Slip stitch into the top of the first chain three, tie off and cut.

Round 2

Chain three into one of the open corners of the square.
Double crochet twice into the same corner.
Chain three.
Double crochet three times into the same corner.
*Chain one.
Into the next corner make three double crochets.
Chain three.
Make three further double crochet stitches into the same corner.
Repeat two more times from the *.
Slip stitch into the top of the first chain three, tie off and cut.

Round 3

Chain three into one of the open corners of the square.
Double crochet twice into the same corner.
Chain three.
Double crochet three times into the same corner.
*Chain one.
Make three double crochet stitches into the next space.
Chain one.
Into the next corner make three double crochets.
Chain three.
Make three further double crochet stitches into the same corner.
Repeat two more times from the *.
Slip stitch into the top of the first chain three, tie off and cut.

Round 4

Repeat round 3, extending the pattern for the increased length.

Change yarns to yellow or the second color.

Round 5 – 8

Continue the pattern, increasing the central sections as the square grows.

Change yarns to variegated cream, or your third chosen color.

Round 9

Continue the pattern, increasing the central sections as the square grows.

Change yarns to plain cream, or your fourth color.

Round 10

Continue the pattern in the new colored yarn.

Sewing Granny Squares Together

Take your squares and put them into an order that you’re happy with. Lay them out on a hard surface, and then turn them upside down. The rougher side should be facing you.

Cast your cream or fourth colored yarn onto your hook. Put your hook through the first set of adjoining corner spaces, so that both granny squares are hanging on the same hook. Yarn over, pull the yarn through the gaps, yarn over again, and pull through both loops.

Repeat this motion moving through every pair of stitches, corner to corner.

You’re going to join each set of squares in the same fashion.

Crocheting Your Border

There are some fabulous, complex ways to create crochet borders. But I went for something simple for this design, due to the unknown quantities of yarn! If you’ve made your out of scraps from incomplete skeins I recommend you following these simple instructions to reduce the odds of running out half way around. But go nuts with something a bit more fancy if you’re feeling flush with yarn!

Cast onto your crochet hook, and insert it into one of the corner spaces. Chain three as your first double crochet, then make two further double crochets into the corner.

Moving along the edge of the scarf, make a double crochet into each stitch.

At each corner, make three double crochets.

When you reach your starting point, slip stitch into the top of your initial chain three.

You can stop here, or add another set of stitches to the narrow end sections of the scarf.

Finishing The Ends

To give the scarf a more complete look, I lengthened the narrow ends of the piece.

Insert your hook into the corner stitch, and make a single crochet, then double crochet along then end, putting one final single crochet into the corner stitch.

Repeat for both ends, then sew in your loose threads of yarn with a yarn needle or hook as you prefer.

Your Yarn Scrap Scarf

You are unlikely to have the exact same leftover skeins as I do, and so your scarf is probably going to be a little different to mine. And that’s great! One of the best things about handmade items is that even when they follow the same pattern, they are always a little unique.

Happy Crocheting!

Lucy Kate, x

The post Yarn Scrap Granny Square Scarf Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

How to Crochet an Infinity Scarf

Lucy Kate — Thu, 18 May 2023 08:51:00 +0000

In this guide I’ll share instructions for how to crochet an infinity scarf, in three different ways! Each one will produce a scarf that is a different texture and warmth. Perfect for any style or weather.

An infinity scarf is, as you might well expect, a scarf which never ends! It wraps around your neck in a complete circle, either as a long loose loop or wrapped over your head twice as a tighter, snugger fitting scarf. I am going to share my favorite patterns for a light-weight, simple scarf, a chunky winter warmer and an all-purpose, textured stunner.

How to crochet an infinity scarf
What you’ll need
Three simple infinity scarf patterns

Quick Crochet Patterns for Beginners

When you start out with crochet, certain things seem intimidating. I must admit that was always wary of crocheting clothes. For a long time I had never read a clothing pattern, let alone followed one successfully.

But as this English summer turned from boiling hot to chilly winds and I found myself wanting something to warm me up.

It’s not cold enough for a jumper, but there is a definite nip to your neck.

Especially when you tend to wear t-shirts defiantly regardless of weather conditions, like I do.

Considering how to crochet an infinity scarf was a bit of a light-bulb event for me this weekend. I am not a big fan of traditional scarves. Frankly, they annoy me. They are always too long. The ends get in the way, and the texture is often too rough.

But I have seen a lot of infinity scarfs, and given how often I have a hook in my hand, buying one seemed daft. So I decided to give it a go and work out how to crochet an infinity scarf for myself.

Since it seems to have worked out really rather well, I thought I would share it with you despite being ever so terribly short to write up.

I have had brilliant fun putting together this simple light-weight infinity scarf pattern to share with you.

All of these finished crochet scarf patterns only took about 4 hours to complete each. They are perfect lazy afternoon patterns, just made to dive headlong into and finish quickly and satisfactorily.

Crochet Infinity Scarf Techniques

The crochet scarf patterns I will share with you in this article use a very limited number of techniques. These include the chain, treble crochet (US) and the puff stitch.

If you are unfamiliar with any of these then check out the linked tutorials for more information. When you are happy that you know what they are, then join us for the full patterns below!

The Simple Summery Crochet Infinity Scarf

This free crochet pattern will help you to produce a light but wind resistant scarf. Perfect for summer breezes or wearing under a coat.

It is sized to fit me, and I think my head is a fairly standard size for an adult! But the beauty of it is that when you make your initial chain, you can adjust the pattern to fit you better.

All you need to do is wrap the chain around your neck and decide whether you think that is the length you will want the finished scarf to be.

Remember, when done you want to be able to choose to either wear it loose and long, or to wrap it over your head twice.

Take this into account if you decide to adjust the chain, and make sure you can still wind it over your head two times if you reduce the length.

Since I first put this pattern online my daughter has claimed this particular scarf as her own. So I am more than happy that it can fit any size of person – from my 2 year old daughter to my 30 year old self.

It’s done fantastically keeping her warm as the weather has cooled despite being very light-weight, and to my joy has gained multiple compliments too!

Equipment

For this infinity scarf crochet pattern I have used a size H/ 5mm crochet hookPaid Link, scissors and a yarn needle.

The yarn I chose I was really happy with. It’s 100g of Women’s Institute Soft and Silky, in Lilac mix color.

This yarn is only available in the UK, but if you are in the USA then this looks like a really nice alternative optionPaid Link.

I strongly recommend using a soft yarn that is multi-colored. This means you can have a varying color pattern in your scarf without having to carry out color changes.

Simple Infinity Scarf Crochet Pattern

I can’t lie, I love this infinity scarf crochet pattern. It’s repetitive nature is extremely calming, and because it is literally repetition after repetition, even though it is fairly large it comes together very quickly.

Row 1 – Make a chain of 150 stitches. When complete, slip stitch through the front and back loops of your first chain to join.

Row 2 – *Chain 2, then make a double crochet (US) into the third stitch from the hook. Double crochet into each stitch, until the end of the row. Slip stitch into the top of the initial chain to join.

Row 3 to 22 – Repeat from *

When your scarf is finished, leave a long loose end. Sew this into the body of the scarf with a yarn needle.

Warm Chunky Crochet Infinity Scarf

This pattern is very simple and straight forward, requiring just the use of chains and puff stitches.

It makes however a very warm and snuggly scarf, that you can make as thick and cosy as you like.

The one shown in the photos and free crochet pattern below is not very wide, as I wanted it to fit under a fairly high-necked coat, but you can increase the number of rows in the same fashion to make yours as big as you like.

Equipment

To complete this infinity scarf crochet pattern you will need a 6.5mm hook, a 5.5mm hook and a yarn needle.

The yarn I chose for this pattern was a Sirdar economy double knit. If you use the same pick up 2 x 100g balls. It’s worth mentioning that this yarn is one of the few truly cheap yarns I am very happy with, costing only a couple of pounds per 100g.

The flecks of black and brown color really add to the impression it gives when it is finished, and I recommend making your puff stitch crochet scarf using this variety if you want the same impression.

Warm Chunky Infinity Scarf Crochet Pattern

This infinity scarf crochet pattern is a really nice one to produce, but also great for beginners to the puff stitch. It gives you the time and simple layout to really work on getting each stitch right.

The wool I have chosen to use is also fairly soft and workable, which is a must for a puff stitch that requires extra tension and work with your fingers.

Row 1 – Using your 6.5mm hook, make a chain of 148 stitches. When complete, slip stitch through the first chain you made to join.

[wp_ad_camp_2]Row 2 – Swap to your 5.5mm hook and use this for the rest of the pattern. Chain 3. make a puff stitch into the base of the chain, then chain one. Skip the next stitch. Make a puff stitch into the following stitch, then chain one. Repeat this pattern for the remainder of the row. Putting a puff stitch into every other stitch, with a single chain linked them. At the end of the row, slip stitch into the top of the initial chain to join.

Row 3 – Chain 3. Puff stitch into the stitch at the top of your first puff stitch from the previous row. Chain one. Skipping the next stitch (formed from your previous chain one) puff stitch into the next stitch formed by a puff stitch. Repeat for the rest of the row, *putting a puff stitch into the stitch at the top of your previous row’s puff stitch, with a chain to form a space between each. At the end of the row, slip stitch into the top of the initial chain to join

Row 4 to 8 – Repeat from *

When your scarf is finished, leave a long loose end. Sew this into the body of the scarf with a yarn needle.

The Textured Crochet Infinity Scarf

This final pattern is probably my new favorite. It’s warm and cosy, but without being too bulky.

It has texture and a pattern to it from varying the stitches, which gives it real personality.

The only additional technique we will be using in this pattern which moves beyond the others is the treble crochet.

This pattern combines the chain, treble crochet (US) and puff stitch to make a more varied feel to the scarf.

Equipment

For this infinity scarf crochet pattern you will need an 8mm crochet hook, a 7mm crochet hook and a yarn needle.

The yarn I chose for this pattern was Sirdar Click Chunky yarn with wool. Its 70% acrylic, 30% wool. The color is called winter violet and in real life looks much brighter than the photos suggest. It combines flecks of violet, pink and white. The feel is thick and slightly coarse, though not rough or abrasive. It gives a certain amount of warmth to the piece on it’s own merits.

The Textured Infinity Scarf Crochet Pattern

This pattern is less repetitive than those above, so you will need to follow the pattern more carefully as you progress. However, each row is predictable and follows a certain system, so you won’t require stitch markers to keep track of your work.

Row 1 – Using your 8mm hook, make a chain of 140 stitches. When complete, slip stitch through the first chain you made to join.

Row 2 – Swap to your 7mm hook and use this for the rest of the pattern. Chain 3 to form your first treble crochet. Make a single treble crochet into each chain for the rest of the row. At the end of the row slip stitch into the top of the initial chain to join.

Row 3 – Chain 3. Puff stitch into the next stitch, treble crochet into the following stitch. Repeat to row’s end, alternating treble crochets and puff stitches. At the end of the row slip stitch to join.

Row 4 – Chain 3. Make a single treble crochet into each stitch. Sl st to join.

Row 5 – Chain 3. Puff stitch into the base of the chain. Make a puff stitch into each subsequent stitch of the row. Do not chain between as in the previous pattern. At the end of the row, sl st to join

Row 6 – Chain 3. Make a single treble crochet into each stitch. Sl st to join.

Row 7 – Chain 3. Puff stitch into the next stitch, treble crochet into the following stitch. Repeat to row’s end, alternating treble crochets and puff stitches. At the end of the row slip stitch to join.

Row 8 – Chain 3. Make a single treble crochet into each stitch. Sl st to join.

Row 9 – Chain 3. Puff stitch into the base of the chain. Make a puff stitch into each subsequent stitch of the row. At the end of the row, sl st to join

Row 10 – Chain 3. Make a single treble crochet into each stitch. Sl st to join.

When your scarf is finished, leave a long loose end. Sew this into the body of the scarf with a yarn needle.

Wearing your Infinity Scarf

My crochet infinity scarves are being tested extensively at the moment. The first scarf pattern, the light-weight one, is worn by my daughter most days. It has stood the test of time and toddler! I am very happy with the WI yarn I used, which is comfortable and strong too. All in all a big success.

Although I designed this scarf thinking I would mostly wear it loose, I actually prefer it wrapped over twice and therefore tighter. Whether it’s around my neck or hers!

Infinity scarves versatility is great. It can also be worn to cover your hair or ears in particularly windy conditions!

The mixed stitch scarf was made as a gift, but I am so pleased with it that I can going to make another for myself. Fortunately, the weather isn’t yet cold enough to require the padded puff stitch scarf, but I will let you all know how it gets along – after all, winter is coming!

Infinity scarves are great because you can make them fit the outfit that you are wearing, and blend them in whatever your style might be.

They can be as conservative and discrete as you want, or as flamboyant as you can make them.

I prefer mine as a statement piece, and choosing a mix shade yarn really helps with that effect.

I used to be crazy for black outfits, but I am falling into the color trap in recent months.

The pictured outfit is a good example of the less subtle way of rocking an infinity scarf…

Possible Variations

The crochet infinity scarf is very versatile. The pattern can be anything from incredibly simple to ridiculously complicated, depending upon your preference and skill set.

You can change the initial chain length to make it longer or shorter. You can add more rows to make it thicker. Or use different textured yarns, hook sizes and techniques to make it, well, pretty much whatever you want it to be!

You can also liven it up by adding in some random color changes, or tone it down by making it from one plain colored yarn.

Please feel free to share your infinity scarf ideas and experiences with us in the comments box below, or post photos on our Facebook page!

I will be adding more patterns onto the website in time, and if you want to check out my latest designs before they are written up you can always pop along to my Instagram and Pinterest pages too.

Happy Crocheting! Lucy Kate, x

The post How to Crochet an Infinity Scarf appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Easy Crochet Hat Pattern

Lucy Kate — Tue, 04 Oct 2022 13:56:00 +0000

This easy crochet hat pattern is perfect for making a comfortable, quick beanie style hat. Today I’ll be helping you to make your own warm and snuggly crochet hat. I’ll share the yarn, equipment and stitches you’ll need, and give simple step by step instructions for crocheting your own hat

What you’ll need to crochet your hat
Stitches and pattern instructions
Easy crochet hat pattern

Nothing beats a good hat when the weather is chilly. I must admit I am very pleased with this one. I hope that you enjoy making and wearing it as much as I have!

Easy Crochet Hat Equipment

To follow this easy crochet hat pattern you will need the following crochet equipment:

220 yards / 150g aran weight Lion Brand Landscapes Charcoal YarnPaid Link
Size I / 5.5mm Crochet HookPaid Link
Yarn NeedlePaid Link
Stitch MarkersPaid Link

I am a real fan of this Lion Brand yarn. You have lots of colors to choose from, so you can pick the one which suits you best. It works up very nicely, and has a lovely soft finish. It is also quite tough for such a gentle yarn.

Easy Crochet Hat Stitches & Pattern Instructions

To make this easy crochet hat you will need to use a few different crochet techniques including:

The easy crochet pattern will be given using abbreviations, but with full instructions in italics underneath for those newer to reading crochet patterns.

Easy Crochet Hat Pattern

Your easy crochet hat is worked in a continuous circular pattern.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches. (8)

Round 2

Put 2 single crochets (2sc) into each stitch. (16)

Round 3

Make 1 puff stitch (1PS) in the first stitch, then 1 double crochet (1dc) into the next.

Then continue in the same pattern (1ps, 1dc) x 7. (16)

Round 4

(1dc, 2dc) x 8. (24)

Make 1 double crochet in the first stitch, then two double crochets in the next, continuing in this fashion for the duration of the round.

Round 5

(1ps, 2dc, 1ps) x 8. (32)

Make 1 puff stitch in the first stitch, then 2 double crochets into the next stitch, then 1 puff stitch into the following stitch. Repeat for the length of the round.

Keep It Going!

Round 6

(1ps, 1dc, 1ps, 2dc) x 8. (40)

Make 1 puff stitch in the first stitch, then 1 double crochet into the next stitch, then 1 puff stitch into the following stitch, then 2 double crochet into the stitch after that. Repeat for the length of the round.

Round 7

(1ps, 1ps, 2dc, 1ps, 1ps) x 8. (48)

Make 1 puff stitch into each of the first two stitches, then 2 double crochet into the next stitch, then 1 puff stitch into the following two stitches. Repeat for the length of the round.

Round 8

(1dc, 1ps, 1ps, 2dc, 1ps, 1ps) x 8. (56)

Make 1 double crochet into the first stitch, then 1 puff stitch into the next two stitches. Next make 2 double crochets into the following stitch, and finish this pattern with 1 puff stitch in the next two stitches. Repeat for the length of the round.

Round 9 – 19

(1ps, 1dc) x 8. (56)

To work the body of the hat, alternate a puff stitch into one stitch, then a double crochet into the next. Follow this repetitive pattern of alternating stitches from round 9 to round 19.

Round 20

Put 1 single crochet into each stitch.
At the end of the round, slip stitch into the next stitch, cut off the yarn and tie off.
Then sew the loose end back into the body of the hat using your yarn needle.

Making Your Own Easy Crochet Hat

I hope you enjoy making your own easy crochet hat. I highly recommend the Lion Brand Landscape yarnsPaid Link, and they come in lots of colors. So you can pick the one that suits you the best.

More Easy To Crochet Clothes

Happy Crocheting! Lucy Kate, x

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