Crochet flowers aren’t just fun to make, they can be the ultimate hand made gift too. How often have I given friends or family members a gorgeous bunch of flowers, only to find out they lasted three days at best? It’s not a fun feeling, but it’s totally avoidable if you know how to crochet.

For my friend’s birthday a few years ago I crocheted her the sunflowers that I’ve shared the pattern for below. They still sit in a vase in her living room, pretty much looking as lovely as they did when they first appeared from my hook.

Crochet Daffodil

The daffodil is one that has a place really close to my heart. Every year in England it’s this sure sign that Spring has properly sprung, and that finally the cold and rain might depart for a few weeks. I’ve also always been very taken with the distinctive trumpet shape, so it mattered a lot to me to get that just right within my crochet design. I hope this has done it justice, but check it out here and see what you think!

Crochet Tulip

What could be more eye catching than a tulip? Another real staple around here in Spring, this iconic flower is often found in huge color blocked groups outside country manors and castles, or just sprinkled around people’s backyards. To get that iconic upright shape, you’ll be crocheting your petals separately, working in the round and connecting them at the base of the flower’s head. They make lovely standalone flowers for your crochet display, or would look fabulous in a bunch to hand to your friend on a special occasion.

Floral Bookmarks

I’ve been having a lot of fun crocheting bookmarks recently. There has been some real variety in designs, but my personal favorites are these floral patterns. The head of the flower pokes out of the end of your book, whilst the long flat stem lays across the pages, marking the point where you were unwilling forced to stop reading for a while. You can vary the stem length depending on the books you want them to fit, and there are two flower head designs in this pattern.

Puff Flowers

Funnily enough, puff flowers were one of the very first patterns I published on this website way back in 2016. I’ve changed and updated the pattern a few times since then, settling on my current favorite that you can see pictured below. These look best when made with an aran yarn for the petals, ideally in a low cotton or high wool fiber.

Crochet Sunflowers

If someone asked you to name a flower, I bet sunflowers would be fairly high up on the list. And who can blame us for loving them so much, with their dizzying heights and bold petals. Whether you are driving past fields of them waving together in the wind, or showing them off in pots beside your door, these flowers just scream happiness, and I love them for it. My pattern joins two and three dimensional crochet shapes to really try to show off just what the humble sunflower is all about.

The post Crochet Flowers appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Flowers and floral patterns are a big part of crochet, and the crochet puff flower is a really distinctive one of them. In this article I am going to share a simple crochet puff flower pattern, and some fun and fabulous ways to use it.

The repetitive and smooth shapes formed by our yarn are often reflective of the natural world. From the flat flowers at the centre of granny squares, to three dimensional individual pieces, there are plenty of petal designs to choose from.

I have an old instructional video for making a puff flower. It’s a fun pattern, but how I do it these days is a little different and more to my current taste. So i’ll share the written instructions for my new puff flower method below:

Crochet Puff Flower Stitches

• magic circle
• ch – chain
• PS – puff stitch
• cc – color change

Puff Stitch Instructions

The make a puff stitch you will need to:

1. Yarn over, hook through the stitch, yarn over again, pull through.
2. Yarn over again, hook through the stitch, yarn over again, pull through.
3. Yarn over a final time, hook through the stitch, yarn over, pull through.
4. Yarn over, and pull through ever loop on the hook.
5. Slip stitch to close

A Cheat

If your puff petals are looking a bit flat, try using an extra yarn over and pull through before you close the loops, or swap to a heavier weight of yarn, or a higher wool percentage fiber.

Crochet Puff Flower Pattern

Begin with the center of the flower in your first color. 

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches.

cc to petal color.

Round 2

You will need to keep your stitches nice and even. I recommend at least for your first few, working in a fairly bright color so that you can clearly see your stitches.

Into one of the outside stitches, make a chain of two stitches. Make 1PS into the same stitch, ch2, then slst into the same stitch.

*slst into the next stitch, ch2, then PS into the next stitch, ch2, then slst into the same stitch

Repeat from * until the final petal is completely, then join by slip stitching again into the edge of the first petal.

You can now sew in the loose ends with a yarn needle or hook, and snip them close to the back of the flower.

Crochet Puff Flower Uses

Puff flowers are a great fun piece of crochet, but they are a bit fiddly and time consuming. However, when finished they are very versatile, and look great in a variety of colors and sizes.

As individual pieces, joined together or as embelishments – they will make a great addition to your crochet arsenal.

A puff flower is a very tactile crochet piece, and one that has bags of character.  Whether you want to make it in traditional floral shades, or extravagent colors and textures, there is so much that you can do with a puff flower.

If you want to find out how to make the puff flower, check out my article and tutorial video here.

Today we are going to have a look at just a few of the many options for making use of this funky item.

Individual Crochet Puff Flower Uses

Puff flowers are created by forming thick stitches, and as a result are wide when finished. Whilst it is possible to make small thin crochet patterns into static pieces, it requires extra effort. Starching, for example, is a great way to make a small crochet piece into a usable individual one.

But with puff flowers, no extra effort is required. They are firm and solid flowers, beautifully formed and ready to be adapted to lots of fun ideas.

They can make very sweet key rings. I have had one attached to my keys for a few days now, and it’s holding up very well.

In order to attach your puff flower to an external object like a chain or ring, there are a couple of ways that you can secure it. You can either do so directly from the puff flower itself, by hooking the extra piece straight into a stitch, or you can create an addition piece of crochet.

With the example shown here, I have made a chain from the underside of a petal of the flower. I have then double crocheted into each stitch of the chain, attaching it to the next petal along too.

I then attached the key ring into the chain.

This is my prefered method because I believe it increases the life of the flower, as it is not being directly tugged by metal and encouraging pulls. If your chain pulls it is fairly simple work to detach it and work a new one in.

Be warned though, even the tightest puff flower might catch on something in your bag and unravel if it’s being tugged around on your keys every day. It should last a while though, and will certainly be an eyecatching addition to your key ring. I have had one on my key ring for a week now, and it is still going strong!

Puff flowers can make great accessories to garments too, for example as button holes on formal suits. They are easy to attach, using a button sewn onto the rear of the flower or even with a simple pin.

Another fun use of this quirky little flower is as a part of a necklace. You can either attach it to a traditional gold or silver necklace you already own, or make the attachment yourself with a crocheted chain.

The only limit on the number of ways you can use your puff flowers is your own imagination.

Crochet Puff Flower Embellishment

Puff flowers can be incorporated into so many things. And we are talking crochet and beyond, here.

Traditional granny square blankets or other soft furnishings can easily have puff flowers added on, pretty much anywhere you like. All you will need is a nice secure piece of crochet, some yarn and a yarn needle when attaching them to crocheted works. When attaching them to a sewn design on cotton or another fabric, then you will need a needle and thread.

To fully secure your flower onto a fabric cushion cover for example, it can help to use two pieces of fine thread for each stitch. This will help to secure the yarn and keep the pattern looking neat and tidy.

I am a big fan of contrasting materials if you want a really fresh and different look.

A good way to do this is to theme them by color or genre, so as to not have too much as a disparity in the finished product.

A green corduroy cushion cover looks amazing with similarly natural colored puff flowers detailed onto it.

Puff Flower Blanket

Although there are several options for the use of a puff flower, my favorite will always be this one. The thick blanket.

Crocheted granny square blankets are beautiful things. But they are to my mind predominantly decorative, because they are fine and thin. You can thicken this blanket type by using tighter stitches, a smaller hook, or doubling up your yarn. But they are essentially a loose weave item.

Puff flower blankets can be made in one of two ways.

In this example the flowers have been sewn together with yarn. I have used a fairly bright purple to illustrate the joining, but even then as you can see they are still well disguised at the back of your piece.

The trick is to push the needle between the puffs of the petals and behind the double crochets exposed point.

However uniform you make your individual petals, it is hard to make a closely stitched puff flower blanket look uniform. My solution to this is to deliberately randomise the design.

A lot of the appeal of the puff flower blanket is it’s unusual beauty and the intensity of the design. With so many flowers pressed so close together, I think it isn’t a flavour for the conformist crocheter!

Personally I don’t have a problem with this, as I don’t think it does a hand made item any harm to look hand made. But if you are all about consistency it can potentially frustrating.

The other method is to crochet the blanket together. I feel that this somewhat detracts from potential of the piece, as it will inevitably be less stiff and warm as a finished product. However, that is just a matter of personal taste. Why not try a couple of different methods on a small test sample and see which you prefer?

The Crochet Puff Flower

Puff flowers are a great thing to learn how to make, because once you have mastered the skill you will be able to then use it to make any number of items.

Their use your creations is wide and varied, and although they are definitely a time consuming item, it is one that is well worth the extra effort to produce.

Why not let us know what you have been doing with your puff flowers in the comments box below?

The post Crochet Puff Flower: Patterns & Uses appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

How do people crochet so fast? When I first decided to learn to crochet I would watch YouTube videos and marvel at the speed of the crocheters in them. I can now pick up a hook and whiz through a ball of yarn like there is no tomorrow. But what happened in between to change things, and how do people crochet so fast when it starts off feeling so slow.

I’ve been doing this for a long time now, and it’s not as simple an equation as it might seem. Sure practice plays a part, but so does technique, having the right equipment and a few other factors too. Today I’ll share how I think I can work at high speed, and hopefully it’ll help you to replicate that pace in your own crochet projects!

Contents

• How do people crochet so fast?
• Practice makes perfect pace
• Getting to grips with grip
• Hook type
• Hook size
• Yarn type and tension
• Knowing the basics well
• Pattern choice
• Attitude and emotions

How Do People Crochet So Fast?

I have to admit, I love it when people’s eyes bulge a bit at the speed of my hook. But I also make more mistakes when I’m showing off! (Don’t we all!) The fast pace of my average, non-showing-boating crocheting is still pretty fast, and there are several things that I think come together to allow me to work quickly.

It’s a combination of experience, technique, the right hooks and yarn, familiar stitches and patterns and even how I’m feeling on the day. Let’s break them down and take a look at how you can replicate these factors to speed up your crocheting project.

Experienced Crocheters Hook Faster

Practice makes perfect. Or at least more speed! Once you can relax into your hooking, your project flows more and each stitch falls into place faster than when you were second guessing your technique and biting your lip in concentration.

How You Hold Your Handle Helps

There are a few standard hook grips to choose from. Pencil grip and knife grip are the most common ways to hold onto it, and I genuinely think that for some people one is much faster than the other.

If you’re used to one grip, try another method and see if you find it easier to manipulate. You might be surprised by the added speed.

How Hooky The Hook Is

You might find that you can crochet quicker when you have a slightly sharper hook. Now I don’t mean piercingly pointed, but when you have a clear tip to your hook it’s easier to pick up and manoeuvre the yarn. Which makes for a speedier make!

The Right Tools Will Help You Crochet Quicker

For me personally the type of crochet hook makes a big difference. I prefer those that have a soft grip, or that are a fairly chunky piece of smooth metal. It’s easier to move the hook around if your fingers aren’t getting sore or rubbing on burs.

Size Matters When It Comes To Speed

This is a slightly unreasonable point, but it is worth mentioning. Your hook size choice will depend on your yarn, and what you are making. But I think there is a sweet spot for your hands when it comes to using your hook quickly.

For me anything between 4.5 to 6 is always the quickest to stitch with. If I have to use a smaller hook for a project I find it more fiddly and my pace slows. When I have to use a bigger hook, don’t get me wrong, the novelty is fun, but again I am not as fast because it’s more cumbersome to move.

I bet your perfect hook size for speed is different to mine, but I also bet you have one too!

Some Yarns Are Quicker To Crochet With

Your choice of yarn has the potential to impact the speed at which you can crochet. Here are the yarn types that I find slower to crochet, due to the way they feel or move:

• Sequinned yarns
• Glittery yarns
• Yarns with pom poms
• Some acrylic yarns

If you want to make a project that has these yarns then that’s no bad thing, but you might sacrifice a bit of time in working with them.

Tensioning Techniques

Tensioning is such a big part of getting to grips with crochet. Personally I find it the hardest to teach too. The experience and feel of getting that yarn tight enough to work but not so tight it’s immovable.

When you find the perfect point in your tensioning though, you won’t lose it. I had two years off due to family and work commitments, and the day I picked my yarn back up, my tension found itself immediately.

Try different holds and strengths with your fingers, the perfect tension is achievable and when you find it your work will speed up.

People Who Crochet Fast Know All The Stitches

Being really familiar with how to make every stitch in your pattern will hugely speed up the process. Not needing to double check your double crochet, means you can keep up a steady rhythm.

Some Patterns Are Quicker To Make Than Others

Patterns that repeat in a simple way, that don’t need stitch counters and that use a lot of double and triple stitches tend to be faster projects. My favorite project for speed crocheting is always the classic granny square blanket.

Confidence is Key in Crochet

Everything I have said so far I believe to be true. But I also know that I have never been as fast at crocheting as I am when I am working on a piece I have confidence in, with a pattern I made myself, and when other things in my life are going well.

That’s right. It seems unfair but I am confident that my confidence is key when it comes to keeping pace with my work. It’s like a sport, funnily enough. You get the best times when you are mentally in the perfect place.

This one is a little frustrating as sometimes life isn’t going your way. You’ve had a hard day and you sit down with a project to relax, but the hook just isn’t doing its job as smoothly as normal. When this happens I try to do slow calm breathing, and put something funny or familiar on the tv.

Remember that whilst it’s fun to crochet quickly, it’s not a race. Crochet is meant to be fun, fabulous and above all relaxing. Let the stitches come when they are ready, and your project will be all the better for it.

More Tips For Crochet Beginners

• Is it hard to learn?
• Simple crochet conversion charts
• Magic circle methods
• Instructions for making a chain

The post Why I Crochet So Quickly – And How You Can Too! appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

When you start a new hobby, there are things that you’d never guess were controversial that you quickly realise are. For crocheters, your hook grip is one of them.

For several years, I just picked up my hook without thinking, and worked with it. And why not? It was going well for me, after all! There wasn’t any stitch I struggled to make, and as time went on I got pretty fast too.

But once I went from hobbyist to designer, and then started publishing my crochet patterns and tutorials online, I quickly learned that there are two ‘official’ ways to hold a crochet hook. And some crocheters have quite strong views on their fellow crafters sticking to those methods.

Knife vs Pencil Grip

When using the pencil grip your thumb and index finger hold onto the hook, one at either side. If the hook has an indent, then they will often focus around this point, but that’s not essential. The middle finger sits nearer to the head of the hook, on the same side as the index finger.

In the knife grip your index finger instead stretches down the hook towards the head, and your middle finger rests bent alongside it.

The Impact of Hook Grip Types

The standard grips vary not just between individuals, but depending on which type of hook you use. Standard narrow wooden, plastic or metal hooks lend themselves more to the knife style of grip, in my experience. However, these days many of us are more comfortable with chunky, ergonomic handles, which are often easier to hold with a pencil grip.

The level of friction on your hook also makes a difference, because it will alter how securely you want to hold your hook. A rougher or more textured grip is less likely to slip out of your fingers, so can be held more gently or potentially with fewer fingers required!

My Grip

I hold my hook with my thumb on one side, and all my other fingers (bar the little one) on the other side. Technically speaking, for me personally it’s a pencil grip, because that’s how I hold my pencils or pens too. Various teachers tried to train me out of it with no success, and honestly it has never caused me any issues there either.

But my method doesn’t tally with the textbook two grips, and in much the same way as I felt self conscious about writing at school because it drew attention, I also still to this day feel a bit exposed when I share videos which unavoidably show my unusual multi-fingered hook grip. But I shouldn’t!

The post How I Hold My Crochet Hook and Why It Doesn’t Matter appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

This twice crochet basket pattern is a perfect beginner project. It uses simple techniques and the clear step by step instructions along with the pattern will help you to hook up a function, fun, twine basket.

• Tips for crocheting with twine.
• The equipment you’ll need.
• How to crochet your twine basket.

Tips for Crocheting Rough Material

Twine is rough. It’s thick, hard to manipulate and has a sharp texture. When you make your crochet stitches with it you will not only have to work your fingers much harder than you do with yarn, but you will have to be careful to also pick up the soft yarn strand at the same time.

There are two ways around this friction problem for fellow soft-handed people. One is to limit your session times to an hour. When you have worked it for an hour, put it away somewhere safe and stop for a while or carry on with another project you have on the go.

Don’t pick it up again until the areas where friction was being created along your fingers is no longer sore. This might be in a number of minutes or hours, depending on you.

The other solution is to simply wear gloves. If you do this, make sure that they are very tight so that you can still work your fingers properly, and pick gloves made of leather.

Equipment Needed to Crochet a Twine Basket

To crochet this basket you will need the following:

• An aluminium 6mm crochet hook, with no hook grip.
• 300m of twine
• 100g of smooth yarn*
• A yarn needle*
• Scissors

Make sure that you have all of this equipment ready before you begin.

What hook should I use to Crochet Twine?

The biggest lesson I learned during the creation of this pattern, was which crochet hook to use. Primarily it needs to be a fairly large size, because the twine is thick and added to a strand of yarn. I chose a 6mm hook.

When stitching with a tough, thick material, you really need specific qualities to your hook.

Firstly, it needs to have space. Thick, non-compressing material like twine needs room on the hook. The soft grip hook I tried to use initially picked up the strands and manipulated them well, but the strands simply didn’t fit on the hook.

So I swapped to the white plastic hook shown. Whilst this is great for some yarn types, and had plenty of space, the end wasn’t pointed enough.

The next one I tried was a more pointed plastic hook, and this worked well for selecting stitches and moving them up the hook, but I couldn’t grip it hard enough to work the twine.

I finally moved on to one of the crochet hooks I have owned for years. One of my first set of hooks, it’s plain aluminium, straight up and down, with a fair but not excessive hook. It did the job.

To summarise – to crochet with twine you need a hook with space, a sharp point and a little friction.

Crochet Twine Basket Pattern

The base of this crochet basket begins with a standard circular increase. Moving onto a single back loop only row to create a flattened base. You then built this base by forming equally sized circles.

Row 1 – Chain (ch) 6 and join with a slip stitch (sl st) to form a circle (6)

Row 2 – Ch 3, put eleven double crochets US (dc) into the centre of the ring. Forming a ring of 12 stitches in total. Sl st to join (12)

Row 3 – Ch3, 1dc into the same stitch, 2dc into each subsequent st. Sl st to join. (24)

Row 4 – Ch3, *2dc into next st, 1dc into the following st. Repeat from *. Sl st to join at the end of the row. (36)

Row 5 – Ch3, 1 dc next st, *2dc next st, 1dc next 2 st. Rep from *. Sl st to join. (48)

Row 6 – Ch3, 1 dc next 2 st, *2dc next st, 1dc next 3 st. Rep from *. Sl st to join (60)

Row 7 – Ch3, 1 dc next 3 st, *2dc next st, 1dc next 4 st. Rep from *. Sl st to join (72)

Row 8 – Ch3, 1 dc next 4 st, *2dc next st, 1dc next 5 st. Rep from *. Sl st to join (84)

Row 9 – Ch3, 1 dc next 5 st, *2dc next st, 1dc next 6 st. Rep from *. Sl st to join (96)

Row 10 – Ch3, 1dc into the back loop only (blo) of the next 6 st, *2dc blo next st, 1dc blo next 7 st. Rep from *. Sl st to join (108)

Row 11 to 22 – Ch3 then dc in every stitch, sl st to join at the end of each row.

Crochet Twine Basket Handle

The handle of the basket is crocheted separately and sewn onto the main basket

• Row 1 – Ch 11 + 3 (14)
• Row 2 − 1dc in each stitch.
• Row 3 to 21 – Ch3, 1dc in each stitch to row end.

Once you have made your handle, using a yarn needle sew the handle onto the main basket at opposite sides.

I recommend attaching it at one side to the point that your rows begun and ended, as it will help to keep your basket looking neat.

Uses for the Crochet Twine Basket

The finished basket is fairly large by design. I am using mine as a storage basket for my daughter’s toys.

I am attempting to make everything I can for her new room myself, and as any parent knows toy storage is a big deal for kids bedrooms.

It is functional and looks the part too.

I really love vintage and rustic looks, and trying to tie them in with a two year old’s room isn’t always easy.

Practicality is important too.

The wide, sturdy handle means that it’s easy to pick up and move around at play time, and just as simple to tidy up with at the end of the day.

The great thing about this basket is that it is so functional and there are loads of ways you can use it.

It would be fab for bringing your stock to a market day and displaying it whilst you are there. It would rock as an alternative, eco-friendly market basket.

The twine makes it strong and durable in a way that a pure yarn basket will be, even doubled up on strands. So simply stock it up with whatever you choose, and you’re ready to go!

*The products linked in this pattern were carefully selected by Lucy Kate Crochet. If you decide to purchase using the links provided, we may earn a small commission on that sale. This is at no extra cost to you.

The post How to Crochet a Twine Basket appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

I have five simple but stunning free fingerless gloves crochet patterns for you. You’ll work them up quickly, and produce gorgeous, cosy crochet hand warmers to keep your hands toasty in the cold weather.

• Your crochet fingerless glove techniques.
• Sizing your fingerless gloves.
• Five free fingerless glove crochet patterns.

If you are a fairly confident crocheter, you will find that you can put together your crochet fingerless gloves within an hour. If you are new to crochet then it will take a little longer, but it should be a project that even someone totally fresh to the scene will be able to produce in the same day that they start it.

Basic Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern

The basic crochet fingerless gloves pattern produces short, chunky hand warmer style of fingerless gloves. They are a loose fit, easy to pop on and off and will fit most adult hand sizes, male and female. Great for wearing with your long sleeve tops.

For this crochet pattern you will need:

• Size J / 6mm crochet hookPaid Link
• 50g DK yarn in a single color
• Scissors
• Yarn needlePaid Link

The bracketed number at the end of each row is a stitch count, to help you make sure you are on the right track as you go along.

Row 1

Chain (ch) 27 stitches, slip stitch (sl st) to join as a circle (27)

Row 2

*Ch2, then dc (US) into the 3rd stitch from the hook. Dc into the next 26 stitches. Sl st into the top of the initial chain to join. (27)

Row 3 to 5

Repeat from * (27)

You are now beginning to make your thumb hole. The next few rows will not continue in a circle, but will leave a large gap.

Row 6

Ch2, dc into the 3rd st from the hook. Dc once into the next 22 stitches. Ch2 from the final stitch. (23)
Turn over the glove

Row 7

dc into 3rd st from the hook. Dc once into next 22 stitches. (23)

Turn over the glove

Row 8

ch2, 2dc into next st, dc once into next 21 st, 2dc into final st of the row. Sl st to join. (25)

You have now made the thumb hole.

Row 9

ch2, 2 x dc2tog, dc once into 18 st, 2 x dc2tog, sl st. (23)

Row 10

ch2, 2 x dc2tog, dc once into next 12 st, then 2 x dc2tog, sl st (17)

At the end of the row cut off a long tail or yarn, and weave it back into the glove.

Simple Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern

These fingerless gloves are more tailored to the shape of your hand. Made to fit small to medium sized female hand and wrist diameters. The wool blend gives a very warm finish, although slightly rougher than some of the other materials.

The thick base stripe gives a defined finish to your glove, and completes the look.

You will need:

• 5mm crochet hook
• Aran Blend Wool – Approx 50g main color +10g accent color for both hand warmers
• Scissors
• Yarn needlePaid Link

Row 1

Chain (ch) 26, slip stitch (sl st) to join as a circle. (26)

Row 2

*ch2, then double crochet (dc) US into the back loop only (blo) of the 3rd chain from the hook. dc once into the next 25 stitches. Sl st into the top of the initial chain to join (26)

Row 3 and 4

ch2, dc into both loops of the 3rd stitch from the hook. dc once into each subsequent stitch. Sl st to join at the end of the row. (26)

We will now be working on opening a thumb hole in your hand warmer.

Row 5

ch2, dc into both loops of the 3rd stitch from the hook. dc once into the next 24 stitches. Do not join. (25)

Row 6 and 7

turn your glove over. Ch2, dc into the 3rd stitch from the hook. Dc once into the next 24 stitches. (25)

Row 8

turn your glove over. Ch2, dc into the same stitch you made the chain from. Dc once into the next 23 stitches. 2dc into the last st in the row. Sl st to join. (27)

You have now created your thumb hole. We will now be working a reduction for the final part of your hand.

Row 9

ch2, dc the next 2 stitches together twice ( 2 x dc2tog). Dc once into the next 18 st. 2 x dc2tog. Dc into the base of the initial chain. Sl st to join. (24)

Row 10

ch2, 2 x dc2tog. Dc once into the next 14 st. 2 x dc2tog. Dc into the base of the chain. Sl st to join. (20)

Row 11

ch2, dc2tog. Dc once into the next 14 st. dc2tog. Sl st to join, beginning your color change (cc) in this join. (18)

We will now be adding a little bit of length to the hand warmer, and working with your accent color

Row 12

ch 2, using the ch as the 1st st, dc once into each st in the round. Sl st to join. (18)

Row 13

ch 2, using the ch as the 1st st, dc once into each st in the round. Sl st to join. (18)

Row 14

ch 2, using the ch as the 1st st, dc once into each st in the round. Sl st to join. (18)

Finally to finish off, sew the ends into the body of your hand warmer using a yarn needle. Make sure to leave a generous tail when you cut off.

Striped Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern

These crocheted fingerless gloves contain a repetitive striping pattern, which gives them a more sculpted look when finished. The pale and dark contrast is nice and eye catching, and they follow a little further down your arm to give extra warmth.

You will need:

• 5mm crochet hook
• 50g dk blue wool, 50g dk purple (I used Women’s Institute acrylic yarn)
• Scissors
• Yarn needlePaid Link

Begin with the blue yarn.

Row 1

ch25, sl st to join

Row 2

ch2, dc into the next 24 stitches, sl st

Row 3

ch2, dc 24, cc, sl st

Row 4

ch2, dc 24, cc, sl st

Row 5

ch2, dc 24, sl st

You are now beginning your thumb hole. Do not join the next few rows at their end.

Row 6

ch2, dc 23, cc.

Row 7

ch2, dc 23, cc.

Row 8

ch2, dc 23

Row 9

ch2, dc into the based of the same chain as an increase. Dc into the next 22, 2dc into the final stitch, cc, sl st to join

Row 10

ch2, 2x dc2tog, dc into the next 18 stitches, 2x dc2tog, cc, sl st

Row 11

ch2, 2x dc2tog, dc 15, 2x dc2tog, sl st

Row 12

ch2, dc 19, cc, sl st

Row 13

ch2, dc 19, cc, sl st

Row 14

ch2, dc 19, sl st

Row 15

ch2, dc 19, sl st

Finally to finish off, sew the ends into the body of your hand warmer, using a yarn needle. Keep it to other areas that were worked in your blue yarn, so that the sewing doesn’t show through the pattern.

Warm Cuffed Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern

This crochet fingerless gloves pattern is similar to the one above, with reversed colors and a different style to your cuff.

You will need:

• 5mm crochet hook
• 50g dk blue wool, 50g dk purple (I used Women’s Institute acrylic yarn)
• Scissors
• Yarn needlePaid Link

Begin with the purple yarn.

Row 1

ch25, sl st to join

Row 2

ch2, dc into the next 24 stitches, sl st

Row 3

ch2, dc 24, cc, sl st

Row 4

ch2, dc 24, cc, sl st

Row 5

ch2, dc 24, sl st

You are now beginning your thumb hole. Do not join the next few rows at their end.

Row 6

ch2, dc 23, cc.

Row 7

ch2, dc 23, cc.

Row 8

ch2, dc 23

Row 9

ch2, dc into the based of the same chain as an increase. Dc into the next 22, 2dc into the final stitch, cc, sl st to join

Row 10

ch2, 2x dc2tog, dc into the next 18 stitches, 2x dc2tog, cc, sl st

Row 11

ch2, 2x dc2tog, dc 15, 2x dc2tog, sl st

Row 12

ch2, dc 19, cc, sl st to join.

Section Two

You will now need to begin a separate piece, which we will incorporate as a cuff when completed.

Row 1

ch9, sl st

Row 2

ch2, dc into next 8 stitches.

Row 3

ch2, dc into next 8 stitches.

Remember to use the end of the previous chain as the final stitch or your rows will gradually decrease.

Row 4 to 15

ch2, dc into the next 8 stitches.

Row 16

join the cuff into a circle by dc-ing each stitch together

Row 13/16

Combining the cuff and glove. Dc on the inside of the cuff and glove around from row 12, once into each stitch and through the cuff’s edge.

Make sure you leave long tails when each part is complete, to securely sew it into the pattern.

Puff Stitch Cuffed Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern

The final pattern is my personal favorite. Wear these fingerless gloves with longer sleeves. They have a defined short puff stitch cuff. This thick stitch keeps this normally exposed area from catching a chill, as well as providing some definition and styling.

You will need:

• 5mm crochet hook
• 50g grey wool blend aran yarn (I used Patons)
• 50g pink dk yarn
• Scissors
• Yarn needlePaid Link

Row 1

chain 27, sl st

Row 2

ch2, dc into the next 26, color change, sl st

Row 3

ch2, dc 26, sl st

Row 4

ch2, dc 26, color change, sl st

Row 5

ch2, dc 26, sl st

Row 6

ch2, dc 26, cc.

Row 7

ch2, dc 26

Row 8

ch2, dc 26, cc.

Row 9

ch2 & dc, 25 dc, 2dc, sl st

Row 10

ch2, 2 x dc2tog, dc 20, 2 x dc2tog, cc, sl st

Row 11

ch2, 2 x dc2tog, dc 16, 2 x dc2tog

Row 12

ch2, 2 x dc2tog, dc 17, cc, sl st

We are now going to make the cuff using puff stitches

Row 13

ch2, puff stitch, ch 2, sl st into the next stitch, *ch2 from the sl st, puff stitch into the next st, ch2 from the puff stitch, sl st into the next st. Repeat from * until rows end.

The post 5 Free Fingerless Gloves Crochet Patterns appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

The double crochet in the UK is the same stitch as single crochet in USA terminology. The UK double crochet is therefore a smaller stitch than the US double crochet stitch. In this article I’ll quickly simplify the difference between the UK and US versions for you.

If you want to dive straight into the method, jump over to my article on the single, double (and treble!) crochet stitches.

Remember, there is no British single crochet stitch!

• To hook the double crochet UK follow the single crochet pattern.
• For the double crochet US follow the double crochet pattern.

How did we get here?

When I first started crocheting I very quickly hit upon a point of confusion. Just when I thought I was following a tutorial correctly, I would find myself muddled when it came time to move on to a new one.

I am embarrassed to admit that my assumption that it was my lack of understanding at the route of the problem, meant that it was several days before I found out what was going on.

English and American double crochet terminology for stitching is different. Looking back it should have been obvious that was what was going on, but there you go! Here is a simple explanation of each.

UK Double Crochet

The smaller stitch, known in American terminology as a single crochet.

• To practice your Double Crochet UK, first chain eleven
• Insert your hook into the second chain along.
• Yarn over
• Pull the hook through the chain stitch.
• There will now be two loops on your hook
• Yarn over
• Pull the hook through the two loops.

Congratulations! You have made a Double Crochet UK-style.

Now you can go along the row practicing by putting one into each stitch of your chain.

So where is the difference between UK and USA?

USA Double Crochet

The larger of the two identically named stitches, known in UK terminology as a treble crochet. The differences is purely that when you American double crochet, you yarn over the hook before it enters the loop.

This means that when you subsequently yarn over and pull through you have an additional loop on your hook on the other side.

• To practice your Double Crochet US first chain twelve.
• Yarn over and insert your hook into the third stitch along.
• Yarn over
• Pull through the chain stitch. You will now have three loops on your hook
• Yarn over
• Pull through the first two loops on your hook. You will now have two loops on your hook
• Yarn over
• Pull through the remaining loops on your hook.

And you have achieved a Double Crochet US! Once again, you can practice by going along the chain and putting on ito each chain stitch.

Summary

Single Crochet (USA) = Double Crochet (UK)

Double Crochet (USA) = Treble Crochet (UK)

And now you know!

The post Double Crochet UK vs US appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

I created this crochet elf amigurumi toy pattern a decade ago now, and it remains one of my most popular patterns even today. It comes with detailed instructions, and with advice for sewing him together and making his cute little sack. Just make sure you don’t crochet him any socks to go along with it!

• Your equipment list
• Pattern instructions
• Free crochet amigurami pattern

Your Equipment List

I used the following equipment to create my elf doll:

• a steel yarn needlePaid Link
• a size E / 3.5mm crochet hookPaid Link
• sharp scissors
• 100g DMC wooly merino wool in tanPaid Link
• a small amount of brown DK yarnPaid Link (for the mouth)
• 2 x safety eyesPaid Link
• 50g Patons smoothie DK yarn in slate greyPaid Link
• toy stuffingPaid Link
• stitch markers

I don’t normally specify yarn needle type, but the tightness of the stitches for this pattern mean that you will need to have a finer yarn needle to attach the body sections together without compromising their structure. I used a curved tapestry needle with a sharper point.

If you will be working on this pattern over the course of several sessions then you will find it helpful to keep a note of the row you are on at the end of each session. I find this also helps when crocheting whilst looking after kids, who have rather a tendancy to make you lose count.

Free Crochet Toy Pattern

The pattern below is given in sections, as the crochet elf toy is created as individual body parts.

I crocheted the clothes separately, although the final sewing for them is carried out on the body to ensure a snug fit you should be able to remove them once the toy is complete.

Crochet Elf’s Head

Begin using the pale merino wool, using a 3.5mm hook. The stitch count for each round is given at the end of the row in brackets.

This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral round, expanding from the initial magic circle.

Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each row, to help you keep count as they expand.

Row 1 – Make a magic circle of 6 stitches (6)

Row 2 – Make 2 single crochets (2sc) in each stitch (12)

Row 3 to 6 – Make 1sc in each stitch (12)

Row 7 – Make 1sc in the first stitch, and 2sc in the next. Repeat for the round – (1sc, 2sc). (18)

Row 8 – Make 1sc in the first two stitches, then 2sc in the next. Repeat for the round (1sc x 2, 2sc). (24)

Row 9 – (1sc x 3, 2sc) repeat for the round (30)

Row 10 – (1sc x 4, 2sc) repeat for the round (36)

Row 11 – (1sc x 5, 2sc) repeat for the round (42)

Row 12 – (1sc x 6, 2sc) repeat for the round (48)

Row 13 – (1sc x 7, 2sc) repeat for the round (54)

Row 14 – (1sc x 8, 2sc) repeat for the round (60)

Row 15 – (1sc x 9, 2sc) repeat for the round (66)

Row 16 to 18 – 1sc in each stitch (66)

Row 19 – Make 1sc in the first nine stitches, then single crochet two stitches together (sc2tog). Repeat for the round (1sc x 9, sc2tog). (60)

Row 20 – (1sc x 8, sc2tog) repeat for the round (54)

Row 21 – (1sc x 7, sc2tog) repeat for the round (48)

Row 22 – (1sc x 6, sc2tog) repeat for the round (42)

Pull the last stitch out to form a large loop to help keep your place.

You will now need to attach your safety eyes.

The outer eye pushes through the crochet head in a screw fashion.

The back which holds it in place is pushed in at the rear of the pattern in the same manner.

If you are unsure of your eye placement try pulling a thread of yarn through each of your desired places first.

This will give you an idea whether they are evenly placed before you comit to stretching the stitch gap out with the actual eye piece.

Row 23 – (1sc x 5, sc2tog) repeat for the round (36)

Row 24 – (1sc x 4, sc2tog) repeat for the round (30)

Row 25 – (1sc x 3, sc2tog) repeat for the round (24)

Row 26 – (1sc x 2, sc2tog) repeat for the round (18)

Pull the last stitch out to form a large loop to help keep your place.

You will now need to stuff the head

Start with the long nose, using the butt of your crochet hook to make sure the stuffing is pushed right down to the end. Pad it well, leaving just a little space for you to work your last couple of rows.

Row 27 – (1sc x 1, sc2tog) repeat for the round (12)

Add the final stuffing if you feel it is required to give the toy the right shaped head.

Row 28 – sc2tog until closed (6)

Slip stitch to join and leave a long tail for sewing the sections together later.

Now set your crochet elf’s head to one side somewhere safe, and begin work on his body.

Crocheting the Body

To make your crochet toy’s body you will need to use the same equipment as for his head, starting with the pale merino wool and 3.5mm hook.

As with the head, his body pattern is worked in a continuous spiral round, expanding from the initial magic circle. Stitch markers will help you to keep count of your rows as they expand.

Row 1 – Make a magic circle of 6 stitches (6)

Row 2 – Make 2 single crochets (2sc) in each stitch (12)

Row 3 – Make 1sc in the first stitch, and 2sc in the next. Repeat for the round – (1sc, 2sc). (18)

Row 4 to 5 – Make 1sc in each stitch (18)

Row 6 – Make 1sc in the first two stitches, then 2sc in the next. Repeat for the round (1sc x 2, 2sc). (24)

Row 7 – (1sc x 3, 2sc) repeat for the round (30)

Row 8 – (1sc x 4, 2sc) repeat for the round (36)

Row 9 to 14 – Make 1sc in each stitch (36)

Row 15 – (1sc x 5, 2sc) repeat for the round (42)

Row 16 – (1sc x 6, 2sc) repeat for the round (48)

Row 17 – (1sc x 7, 2sc) repeat for the round (54)

Row 18 to 23 – Make 1sc in each stitch (54)

Row 24 – Make 1sc in the first seven stitches, then single crochet two stitches together (sc2tog). Repeat for the round (1sc x 7, sc2tog). (48)

Row 25 – (1sc x 6, sc2tog) repeat for the round (42)

Row 26 – (1sc x 5, sc2tog) repeat for the round (36)

Row 27 – (1sc x 4, sc2tog) repeat for the round (30)

Row 28 – (1sc x 3, sc2tog) repeat for the round (24)

Row 29 – (1sc x 2, sc2tog) repeat for the round (18)

You will now need to stuff your toy’s body. Fill it with toy stuffing, but make sure not to overfill the body. It should have a certain amount of ‘squidge’ to it when you hold it, rather than being completely rigid.

Row 30 – (1sc x 1, sc2tog) repeat for the round (12)

Row 31 – sc2tog until closed (6)

Slip stitch to join and leave a long tail for sewing the sections together later.

Now set your body to one side with his head, as we won’t be joining any parts together until we have them all ready.

Crocheting the Arms (make 2)

The crochet arms and legs are slightly different patterns, so make just two  of these. Use the same body wool colour and your 3.5mm hook.

Again we will be working in an increasing spiral.

Row 1 – Make a magic circle of 6 single crochet stitches (6)

Row 2 – Put 2sc in each stitch until the end of the row (12)

Row 3 – Make 1sc in the first stitch, and 2sc in the next. Repeat for the round – (1sc, 2sc). (18)

Row 4 to 5 – Put 1sc in each stitch (18)

Row 6 – (1sc x 1, sc2tog) repeat for the round (12)

Row 7 to 29 – Put 1sc in each stitch. Remember to mark the first stitch of row 7 to keep count of the rows.

Slip stitch to join and leave a long tail for sewing it on later. Fill the leg with toy stuffing, using the end of your hook to push it down to the hand pad. Leave top of the arm empty for later attaching it to the body, approximately the width of your thumb.

You can now make your similar legs using the pattern below.

Crochet Legs (make 2)

We will be making two legs for your elf, and as with the arms it’s important that they are the same length as each other. These will have bigger feet sections than the arms hand sections, and will be slightly longer too.

Row 1 – Make a magic circle of 6 single crochet stitches (6)

Row 2 – Put 2sc in each stitch until the end of the row (12)

Row 3 – Make 1sc in the first stitch, and 2sc in the next. Repeat for the round – (1sc, 2sc). (18)

Row 4 – Make 1sc in the first two stitches, then 2sc in the next. Repeat for the round (1sc x 2, 2sc). (24)

Row 5 to 7 – Put 1sc in each stitch (24)

Row 8 – (1sc x 2, sc2tog) repeat for the round (18)

Row 9 – (1sc x 1, sc2tog) repeat for the round (12)

Row 10 to 31 – Put 1sc in each stitch. Remember to mark the first stitch of row 7 to keep count of the rows.

Slip stitch to join and leave a long tail of yarn.

As you did with his arms, fill your crochet toy’s legs with stuffing, leaving just a small space at the top for later sewing in.

Crocheting the Ears (make 2)

To make your elf toy some ears you will need to crochet two cones. These will then be pushed flat to form the right shapes for his characteristic elven ears.

Row 1 – Make a magic circle of 4 stitches (4)

Row 2 – Make 2sc in each stitch (8)

Row 3 – Make 1sc in each stitch (8)

Row 4 – (1sc, 2sc) repeat for the round (12)

Row 5 – Make 1sc in each stitch (12)

Row 6 – (1sc x 2, 2sc) repeat for the round (16)

Row 7 to 9 – Make 1sc in each stitch (16)

Row 10 – (1sc x 3, 2sc) repeat for the round (20)

Row 11 to 19  – Make 1sc in each stitch (20)

Fold the ear in half along the length of the cone, and without stuffing sew the open bottom edge together using your yarn needle. Leave a long tail for attaching it to the head later.

Joining Crochet Elf Together

Before you begin sewing the elf together lay out all of his individual parts in the manner that you want him to be the joined in. This will enable you to make sure that it is all in proportion before you begin committing them together.

Your long tails left at the end of each section will be used to neatly sew each part together.

The most important thing to do is ensure that the stitches are small, neat and discreet.

When you have sewn each piece together, pass the threaded needle a few times through the body and then cut off the length of yarn.

Pull the yarn tight before snipping so the loose end should ping back into the body and be hidden from view.

Once he is complete you can if you wish sew a mouth on for him using your dark brown yarn and needle. Be careful here, as pulling too tightly can disfigure the face or cause stuffing to stick out. I still recommend this instead of sewing a mouth before stuffing during the crocheting phase, because your finished head shape can alter unexpectedly when stuffed, leaving the features looking somewhat odd or uneven.

So now you should have a complete but rather naked Elf.

We are going to dress him in his original garb of a sack.

Crochet Clothes

The design I made for crochet elf’s clothes is very simple, to match the outfit he wears in the first book he appears in.

It will look before it is complete like a rectangle with two small rectangles cut out, which will form arm holes for the toy.

Main clothing body

Row 1 – Make a chain of 14 stitches, plus 2 to form the first sc.

Put 1sc in each chain from the 3rd loop.

Row 2 – *Chain 2 to form the first sc.

Put 1sc into each remaining stitch of the row.

Row 3 to 5 – Repeat from *.

Row 6 – Chain 2 to form the first sc.

Sc once in the next 10 stitches. Chain 2.

Row 7 to 9 – Ch2 to form the first sc. Then sc once into each of the next 10 stitches.

Row 10 – Ch2 to form the first sc. Sc once into each subsequent stitch. Chain 6 at the end of the row.

Row 11 – *Sc into the 3rd stitch from the hook, then sc once into each stitch to the end of the row. Ch2 at row’s end.

Row 11 to 17 – Repeat from *.

Row 18 – From the 3rd stitch from the hook, sc once in the first 10 stitches. Chain 2.

Row 19 to 21 – From 3rd stitch from the hook, sc once into each of the 10 stitches. Ch 2 at the row’s end.

Row 22 – From 3rd stitch from the hook, sc once into each stitch. Chain 6 at the end of the row.

Row 23 – *Sc into the 3rd stitch from the hook, then sc once into each stitch to the end of the row. Ch2 at row’s end.

Row 24 to 27 – Repeat from *.

Decide which face of the garment you want to be displayed, and threading your yarn needle with a long tail of single crochet the opposite sides of the rectangle together.

Pull the sleeve over the body of your toy and now make the shoulder straps.

This will ensure they are the correct size for the toy regardless of the stitch size you ended up with,

Clothing straps

Make a chain of 8 stitches, put a single crochet into the 3rd stitch from the hook. Single crochet in each remaining stitch to the row’s end. Leave a long tail at each end.

Sew the straps on to each shoulder corner of the main body clothing piece, fixing them at a point which is snuggly fitted but allows the clothes to be removed if you want.

Alternative Crochet Clothes

The clothing used in this pattern is the original get-up. Once he is freed he gets to choose whatever he desires. Namely socks and hats if my recollection is correct.

The elf shown in these photos was made on commission for a lovely lady and her daughter, but I am so pleased with him I will be making another for my own little girl. I think to keep him unique I will dress him instead in a wooly hat and oversized socks for her.

Part of the fun of this toy is you can pretty much go crazy with his outfits. After all, this adorable chap would be happy with whatever you chose.

Crochet Toy Safety

Please note that handmade crochet toys are not safety tested.

Although I have used safety eyes in this pattern, which have a reduced chance of coming away from the toy and presenting a choking hazard, this risk is not entirely removed in their use.

The safest way to do eyes for babies is to stitch them in place, which if done carefully can absolutely retain the charm of the toy’s facial features.

Using official safety tested toy stuffing is another good way to help your crochet toy to be a little safer for kids.

Caution

I do not recommend letting a child under the age of three play with a crochet toy unsupervised.

They may also not stand up to the level of rough play some kids are fond of as well as a machined toy, so you will need to teach them to take care of their new friend.

This said, what they do get out of a crochet toy is something unique. Special not just in terms of the time and love that has gone into it’s creation, but because it has been made with them in mind.

As you might expect my 2 and a half year old daughter has a number of crochet toys which I have made over the past couple of years. I hope you are encouraged to hear that she has as yet not managed to damage any of them in normal play time activity, and they remain much cherished members of her collection.

Happy Crocheting! x

If you fancy setting him up like in the movies, why not crochet a spider to keep him company!

The post Free Crochet Elf Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

In this guide I’ll share instructions for how to crochet an infinity scarf, in three different ways! Each one will produce a scarf that is a different texture and warmth. Perfect for any style or weather.

An infinity scarf is, as you might well expect, a scarf which never ends! It wraps around your neck in a complete circle, either as a long loose loop or wrapped over your head twice as a tighter, snugger fitting scarf. I am going to share my favorite patterns for a light-weight, simple scarf, a chunky winter warmer and an all-purpose, textured stunner.

Contents

• How to crochet an infinity scarf
• What you’ll need
• Three simple infinity scarf patterns

Quick Crochet Patterns for Beginners

When you start out with crochet, certain things seem intimidating. I must admit that was always wary of crocheting clothes. For a long time I had never read a clothing pattern, let alone followed one successfully.

But as this English summer turned from boiling hot to chilly winds and I found myself wanting something to warm me up.

It’s not cold enough for a jumper, but there is a definite nip to your neck.

Especially when you tend to wear t-shirts defiantly regardless of weather conditions, like I do.

Considering how to crochet an infinity scarf was a bit of a light-bulb event for me this weekend. I am not a big fan of traditional scarves. Frankly, they annoy me. They are always too long. The ends get in the way, and the texture is often too rough.

But I have seen a lot of infinity scarfs, and given how often I have a hook in my hand, buying one seemed daft. So I decided to give it a go and work out how to crochet an infinity scarf for myself.

Since it seems to have worked out really rather well, I thought I would share it with you despite being ever so terribly short to write up.

I have had brilliant fun putting together this simple light-weight infinity scarf pattern to share with you.

All of these finished crochet scarf patterns only took about 4 hours to complete each. They are perfect lazy afternoon patterns, just made to dive headlong into and finish quickly and satisfactorily.

Crochet Infinity Scarf Techniques

The crochet scarf patterns I will share with you in this article use a very limited number of techniques. These include the chain, treble crochet (US) and the puff stitch.

If you are unfamiliar with any of these then check out the linked tutorials for more information. When you are happy that you know what they are, then join us for the full patterns below!

The Simple Summery Crochet Infinity Scarf

This free crochet pattern will help you to produce a light but wind resistant scarf. Perfect for summer breezes or wearing under a coat.

It is sized to fit me, and I think my head is a fairly standard size for an adult! But the beauty of it is that when you make your initial chain, you can adjust the pattern to fit you better.

All you need to do is wrap the chain around your neck and decide whether you think that is the length you will want the finished scarf to be.

Remember, when done you want to be able to choose to either wear it loose and long, or to wrap it over your head twice.

Take this into account if you decide to adjust the chain, and make sure you can still wind it over your head two times if you reduce the length.

Since I first put this pattern online my daughter has claimed this particular scarf as her own. So I am more than happy that it can fit any size of person – from my 2 year old daughter to my 30 year old self.

It’s done fantastically keeping her warm as the weather has cooled despite being very light-weight, and to my joy has gained multiple compliments too!

Equipment

For this infinity scarf crochet pattern I have used a size H/ 5mm crochet hookPaid Link, scissors and a yarn needle.

The yarn I chose I was really happy with. It’s 100g of Women’s Institute Soft and Silky, in Lilac mix color.

This yarn is only available in the UK, but if you are in the USA then this looks like a really nice alternative optionPaid Link.

I strongly recommend using a soft yarn that is multi-colored. This means you can have a varying color pattern in your scarf without having to carry out color changes.

Simple Infinity Scarf Crochet Pattern

I can’t lie, I love this infinity scarf crochet pattern. It’s repetitive nature is extremely calming, and because it is literally repetition after repetition, even though it is fairly large it comes together very quickly.

Row 1 – Make a chain of 150 stitches. When complete, slip stitch through the front and back loops of your first chain to join.

Row 2 – *Chain 2, then make a double crochet (US) into the third stitch from the hook. Double crochet into each stitch, until the end of the row. Slip stitch into the top of the initial chain to join.

Row 3 to 22 – Repeat from *

When your scarf is finished, leave a long loose end. Sew this into the body of the scarf with a yarn needle.

Warm Chunky Crochet Infinity Scarf

This pattern is very simple and straight forward, requiring just the use of chains and puff stitches.

It makes however a very warm and snuggly scarf, that you can make as thick and cosy as you like.

The one shown in the photos and free crochet pattern below is not very wide, as I wanted it to fit under a fairly high-necked coat, but you can increase the number of rows in the same fashion to make yours as big as you like.

Equipment

To complete this infinity scarf crochet pattern you will need a 6.5mm hook, a 5.5mm hook and a yarn needle.

The yarn I chose for this pattern was a Sirdar economy double knit. If you use the same pick up 2 x 100g balls. It’s worth mentioning that this yarn is one of the few truly cheap yarns I am very happy with, costing only a couple of pounds per 100g.

The flecks of black and brown color really add to the impression it gives when it is finished, and I recommend making your puff stitch crochet scarf using this variety if you want the same impression.

Warm Chunky Infinity Scarf Crochet Pattern

This infinity scarf crochet pattern is a really nice one to produce, but also great for beginners to the puff stitch. It gives you the time and simple layout to really work on getting each stitch right.

The wool I have chosen to use is also fairly soft and workable, which is a must for a puff stitch that requires extra tension and work with your fingers.

Row 1 – Using your 6.5mm hook, make a chain of 148 stitches. When complete, slip stitch through the first chain you made to join.

Row 2 – Swap to your 5.5mm hook and use this for the rest of the pattern. Chain 3. make a puff stitch into the base of the chain, then chain one. Skip the next stitch. Make a puff stitch into the following stitch, then chain one. Repeat this pattern for the remainder of the row. Putting a puff stitch into every other stitch, with a single chain linked them. At the end of the row, slip stitch into the top of the initial chain to join.

Row 3 – Chain 3. Puff stitch into the stitch at the top of your first puff stitch from the previous row. Chain one. Skipping the next stitch (formed from your previous chain one) puff stitch into the next stitch formed by a puff stitch. Repeat for the rest of the row, *putting a puff stitch into the stitch at the top of your previous row’s puff stitch, with a chain to form a space between each. At the end of the row, slip stitch into the top of the initial chain to join

Row 4 to 8 – Repeat from *

When your scarf is finished, leave a long loose end. Sew this into the body of the scarf with a yarn needle.

The Textured Crochet Infinity Scarf

This final pattern is probably my new favorite. It’s warm and cosy, but without being too bulky.

It has texture and a pattern to it from varying the stitches, which gives it real personality.

The only additional technique we will be using in this pattern which moves beyond the others is the treble crochet.

This pattern combines the chain, treble crochet (US) and puff stitch to make a more varied feel to the scarf.

Equipment

For this infinity scarf crochet pattern you will need an 8mm crochet hook, a 7mm crochet hook and a yarn needle.

The yarn I chose for this pattern was Sirdar Click Chunky yarn with wool. Its 70% acrylic, 30% wool. The color is called winter violet and in real life looks much brighter than the photos suggest. It combines flecks of violet, pink and white. The feel is thick and slightly coarse, though not rough or abrasive. It gives a certain amount of warmth to the piece on it’s own merits.

The Textured Infinity Scarf Crochet Pattern

This pattern is less repetitive than those above, so you will need to follow the pattern more carefully as you progress. However, each row is predictable and follows a certain system, so you won’t require stitch markers to keep track of your work.

Row 1 – Using your 8mm hook, make a chain of 140 stitches. When complete, slip stitch through the first chain you made to join.

Row 2 – Swap to your 7mm hook and use this for the rest of the pattern. Chain 3 to form your first treble crochet. Make a single treble crochet into each chain for the rest of the row. At the end of the row slip stitch into the top of the initial chain to join.

Row 3 – Chain 3. Puff stitch into the next stitch, treble crochet into the following stitch. Repeat to row’s end, alternating treble crochets and puff stitches. At the end of the row slip stitch to join.

Row 4 – Chain 3. Make a single treble crochet into each stitch. Sl st to join.

Row 5 – Chain 3. Puff stitch into the base of the chain. Make a puff stitch into each subsequent stitch of the row. Do not chain between as in the previous pattern. At the end of the row, sl st to join

Row 6 – Chain 3. Make a single treble crochet into each stitch. Sl st to join.

Row 7 – Chain 3. Puff stitch into the next stitch, treble crochet into the following stitch. Repeat to row’s end, alternating treble crochets and puff stitches. At the end of the row slip stitch to join.

Row 8 – Chain 3. Make a single treble crochet into each stitch. Sl st to join.

Row 9 – Chain 3. Puff stitch into the base of the chain. Make a puff stitch into each subsequent stitch of the row. At the end of the row, sl st to join

Row 10 – Chain 3. Make a single treble crochet into each stitch. Sl st to join.

When your scarf is finished, leave a long loose end. Sew this into the body of the scarf with a yarn needle.

Wearing your Infinity Scarf

My crochet infinity scarves are being tested extensively at the moment. The first scarf pattern, the light-weight one, is worn by my daughter most days. It has stood the test of time and toddler! I am very happy with the WI yarn I used, which is comfortable and strong too. All in all a big success.

Although I designed this scarf thinking I would mostly wear it loose, I actually prefer it wrapped over twice and therefore tighter. Whether it’s around my neck or hers!

Infinity scarves versatility is great. It can also be worn to cover your hair or ears in particularly windy conditions!

The mixed stitch scarf was made as a gift, but I am so pleased with it that I can going to make another for myself. Fortunately, the weather isn’t yet cold enough to require the padded puff stitch scarf, but I will let you all know how it gets along – after all, winter is coming!

Infinity scarves are great because you can make them fit the outfit that you are wearing, and blend them in whatever your style might be.

They can be as conservative and discrete as you want, or as flamboyant as you can make them.

I prefer mine as a statement piece, and choosing a mix shade yarn really helps with that effect.

I used to be crazy for black outfits, but I am falling into the color trap in recent months.

The pictured outfit is a good example of the less subtle way of rocking an infinity scarf…

Possible Variations

The crochet infinity scarf is very versatile. The pattern can be anything from incredibly simple to ridiculously complicated, depending upon your preference and skill set.

You can change the initial chain length to make it longer or shorter. You can add more rows to make it thicker. Or use different textured yarns, hook sizes and techniques to make it, well, pretty much whatever you want it to be!

You can also liven it up by adding in some random color changes, or tone it down by making it from one plain colored yarn.

Please feel free to share your infinity scarf ideas and experiences with us in the comments box below, or post photos on our Facebook page!

I will be adding more patterns onto the website in time, and if you want to check out my latest designs before they are written up you can always pop along to my Instagram and Pinterest pages too.

Happy Crocheting! Lucy Kate, x

The post 3 Ways to Crochet an Infinity Scarf appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Crochet coasters are a practical way to add a bit of your hobby to your home decor. Today I share three very simple crochet coaster patterns. You’ll need a 4.5mm hook and some firm yarn which without much stretch or texture. It’ll need to hold it’s shape under your drink, and not ruin if you accidentally spill your glass!

Contents

• Simple crochet coaster
• Adding a raised edge
• Patterned crochet coasters

These little drinks mats are a fab accessory to have around your home. They are ideal for finishing off your newly decorated space, or making as little gifts for your friends and family.

Simple Crochet Coaster

You’ll find crocheting a simple coaster rewarding. Not only does it look great, it’s practical and so fast to put together. No swapping yarns, cutting ends or changing colors. Just a simple increasing pattern with a flattened edge.

You will need two contrasting colors of yarn and a 4.5mm hook. You’ll also find things easier if you have some scissors, a stitch marker and a yarn needle. This will help you to neatly sew in your ends when you’re done, as the hook can be a bit of a struggle to push back into the coaster when it’s finished.

The brackets at the end of each instruction tell you how many stitches each circle should contain. You will find it easiest to keep track of the pattern if you put a stitch marker in the first stitch of each row.

Simple Crochet Coaster Pattern

• Row 1 – Take the two ends of your yarn balls together, and crochet a double thickness magic circle with eight stitches  (8)
• Row 2 – Put two single crochets (US) into each stitch (16)
• Row 3 – Single crochet once into the first stitch, twice into the next stitch. Repeat to the end of the row. (24)
• Row 4 – Single crochet once into the first two stitches, twice into the third. Repeat to the end of the row.
• Row 5 – Single crochet once into the first three, then twice into the fourth. Repeat.
• Row 6 – Single crochet once into the first four, then twice into the fifth. Repeat.
• Row 7 – Single crochet once into each stitch, through the back loop only. At the end of the row, slip stitch tightly into the next stitch. Cut off with a long tail so that you can sew it in neatly.

Creating Raised Edges

These only deviate slightly from the pattern shown above, but they are more practical in design terms. The raised edge prevents the glass from slipping off the side!

You will need the same equipment as before, though now you are more confident you might like to try using more similar colors, or two strands of the same color.

Pattern Changes

• Follow the instructions for rows 1 – 6 of the Basic Coaster.
• Row 7 – Single crochet into the back loop of each stitch
• Row 8 – Double crochet (US) once into both loops of every stitch. At the end of the row slip stitch into the second stitch from the hook and tie off and sew in the ends!

Crochet Coaster

Your next coaster is something a bit different. You will find that this finished product is thicker than the others, and has a slightly smaller radius.

You can choose your colors based on personal preference, but I find bright contrasting colors make this one pop.

How to Crochet a Patterned Coaster

• Row 1 – Chain 8 and slip stitch into the first stitch to form a ring.
• Row 2 – Chain three then make 23 double crochets into the centre of your ring. Slip stitch the top stitch of your chain three to join.
• Row 3 – Chain three then make 2 double crochet into the stitch. Skip one stitch then make 3 double crochet into the next. Continue around the ring making 3 double crochets into every other stitch. At the end, slip stitch the top of the chain to join and tie off
• Row 4 – You will now need to double crochet into the top of each of the previous double crochets. Begin at one edge of a trio, put two double crochets into the first stitch, one into the middle, two into the third. Skip the interlocking chains. Then repeat, two double crochet into the first stitch, one into the second, two into the third.

Continue in this pattern to the end of the row!

The post Crochet Coaster Patterns appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.