Hello there, welcome to my free squishy crochet chick pattern! I’m excited that this pattern involves virtually nothing by way of embroidery. So if sewing a smile onto your amigurumi animals brings you out in a cold sweat, this entry-level pattern is just the thing!

I let my 10 year old daughter name the two lil’ chicks in the photos accompanying the pattern, so I’m slightly surprised to announce that they’re called Frida and Marie

Once you’ve made your own baby hens, why not give them a bovine buddy to hang out with on the farm!

Materials

To hatch your own squishy crochet chick you’ll need:

• Yarn for the body and wings. You can use any weight, fiber or color you like. For Frida and Marie I used Scheepjes’ softfun (a DK cotton acrylic blend) in the shade canary, and Rico Ricorumi’s nilli nilli yarn (a DK chenille) in white.
• Yarn for the beak and tuft of head feathers. I used Rico Ricorumi’s nilli nilli yarn in neon orange for both.
• A crochet hook one size smaller than the wrapper on your yarn recommends.
• Scraps of black yarn for the nostrils (optional).
• Safety eyes. I’m using 12mm eyes with DK yarn, and they would work with worsted yarn too. For bulky or super bulky yarns try 16mm eyes, and for jumbo yarns try 20mm eyes.
• Toy stuffing.
• A darning needle.

The weight of yarn you choose will dictate how big your chick turns out. As a rough guide:

• DK yarns make a chick 3-4″ high.
• Worsted yarns make a chick 5″ tall.
• Bulky yarns make a 6″ chick.
• Super bulky yarns make a chick 7-8″ high.
• Jumbo yarns make a 9″ chick or bigger – there’s a lot of variation in this category.

Those estimates are to the top of the head, not including the sweet tuft of head feathers.

Pattern notes

This pattern is written in standard US crochet terms. You’ll only need to know the bare minimum number of stitches, which are:

Ch chain stitch
Sl st slip stitch
Sc single crochet
Inc increase (make 2 sc in the same space)
Dec decrease

There’s an introductory guide to the basic stitches right here, if you need it. For the decreases, I recommend using the invisible decrease method, which is perfect for amigurumi. Insert the hook into the front loop only of the next two stitches (left, below). Put the yarn over the hook, and draw it through both front loops – you’ll have two loop remaining on the hook. Yarn over again, and draw it through both loop (right, below). Done!

Squishy crochet chick pattern

The chick’s body, wings and beak are all made in spiralling rounds. The eyes need to be added before the body is closed, in order to secure the backs, but I prefer to add everything else once the finished. Get your hook and yarn ready, let’s go!

The body

You can start all of your chicks parts either with a magic circle, or by chaining 4, and slip stitching into the furthest chain from the hook, to make a loop. Creator’s choice! I find that if you’re using a yarn which snaps easily, the 4-chain loop is easier to tighten without too much tension on the yarn.

• Make a magic circle, or ch4 and sl st to join.
• 1st round: Ch 1, sc 8 into the magic circle or 4-ch loop (8 sts)
• 2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)
• 3rd round: *1 sc, inc* 8 times (24 sts)
• 4th round: *2 sc, inc* 8 times (32 sts)
• 5th round: *3 sc, inc* 8 times (40 sts)
• Rounds 6 – 23: Sc all the way round
• 24th round: 3 dec, sc 8, 6 dec, 8 sc, 3 dec (28 sts)
• 25th round: 3 dec, sc 2, 6 dec, 2 sc, 3 dec (16 sts)
• Put a stitch marker into the loop on your hook, and cut your yarn leaving a 24 inch tail.

Lay the body so far out flat with the opening at the bottom running from left to right. Position the eyes about 8 stitches apart, between rows 11 and 12, and press the backs on securely. Now stuff the body firmly with toy stuffing and make one more round:

• 26th round: 8 dec, (8 sts)

Closing the body

Make one slip stitch into the next stitch, and pull the yarn tail all the way through, ready for sewing what’s left of the opening closed. Poke in a little bit more stuffing if it will fit and close the two side of the opening with mattress stitch. If you’re new to mattress stitch, the first picture below shows where to place each stitch (the needle is already in position for the first stitch. Make the stitches loosely at first (picture 2) so you can easily see where the next stich goes. Then either tighten the stitches one at a time, or for smooth yarns you can pinch the start point firmly (picture 3) and pull the yarn tail in the opposite direction.

I did this demonstration using DK yarn and the ‘correct’ size hook, so you can see what’s going on clearly. If you go down a hook size to make your chick, the small gaps between stitches in picture 4 won’t be there! Here’s where we’ve got up to so far:

The wings

Make two per chick.

• Make a magic circle, or ch4 and sl st to join.
• 1st round: Ch 1, sc 8 into the magic circle or 4-ch loop (8 sts)
• 2nd round: *Sc 1, inc* 4 times (12 sts)
• 3rd round: *Sc 2, inc* 4 times (16 sts)
• 4th round: *Sc 3, inc* 4 times (20 sts)
• Rounds 5 – 7: Sc all the way round
• 8th round: *Sc 3, dec* 4 times (16 sts)
• 9th round: *Sc 2, dec* 4 times (12 sts)

Sl st once, cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing, and pull the yarn tail all the way through the sl st.

The bill

Do you call it a bill or a beak? Either way, make one per chick.

• Make a magic circle, or ch4 and sl st to join.
• 1st round: Ch 1, sc 8 into the magic circle or 4-ch loop (8 sts)
• 2nd round: *Sc 1, inc* 4 times (12 sts)
• 3rd round: *Sc 2, inc* 4 times (16 sts)
• 4th round: Sc all the way round.

Sl st once, cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing, and pull the yarn tail all the way through the final sl st. Using a scrap of black yarn, make two nostrils on the top side of the beak. Relative to the single crochet stitches on the beak, each nostril is one stitch wide, and the space between them is two stitches wide. Once you’ve made them, you can tie the black yarn ends together and leave them tucked inside the bill.

Assembling your chick

Sew the bill onto the body just below the eyes. Sew the wings onto either side of the body, just above the eyes. All you chick is lacking now is a cute tuft of feathers on top of their head, to give them some real character!

Adding the head feathers

Frida and Marie’s head tufts are nothing more than low-density pom poms. I’ve used a fork to make them, but for a chick made in bulkier yarns you will need something a little larger to wrap your yarn around. This YouTube video suggests ways of making pom poms in various sizes.

I wrapped my orange yarn around a fork 10 times (top left picture). I tied it around the middle with a long-ish piece of yarn (top right picture) then slid it off the fork, and tied it around the middle a couple more times, to make sure it was tight and secure (bottom left picture). Next I snipped the end of every loop, gave my pom pom a little shake, and trimmed any over-long bits, leaving the tails of the long piece of yarn intact (bottom right picture). Finally, I used those yarn tails to tie the pom pom around a stitch on top of my chick’s head, just forward of center.

You might need to experiment with exactly how many times you wrap your yarn around your fork/fingers/pompom maker, depending on the thickness and texture of your yarn. You want the result to be dense enough that some of the tuft sticks up out of your chick’s head, but not so dense that it looks bushy. It took me three attempts to get a result I was happy with!

Squishy crochet chick – complete!

And that’s all there is to it. You chick is ready to deploy as a gift or Easter decoration. If you’re keen to make more spring-inspired squishies, then my crochet bunny pattern is a sweet choice. And we’d love to see how your creations turn out, so if you’re on social media, please tag Lucy in a photo on Facebook or Instagram. And happy crocheting!

The post Squishy Crochet Chick Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Good day! This is Bernadette, my squishy crochet bunny pattern. What do you think? It all started with a pompom I spied in a craft store, and ended with a return trip to pick up felt for a flower crown. I don’t think any amigurumi idea has ever sent me shopping so many times!

Obviously, the pompom became her tail. And the felt was transformed into a deceptively simple yet impressive-looking flower crown. Which all in all means this pattern is completely adorable, but still easily accessible to any beginner crocheter. It would be a sweet decoration or gift at Easter, or at any time of year for a rabbit owner or bunny-loving child.

It’d also look pretty cute alongside my cow and duck patterns too!

Materials

Let’s dive straight in, with what you’ll need to make your own squishy crochet bunny:

• Yarn. You can use any weight, fiber, or color you like. Smooth DK yarns make palm-sized Easter ornaments, and super bulky chenille yarns make irresistibly squashy plush toys. Traditional rabbit colors like brown, gray and white work well of course, but so do fresh springtime pastels, like this King Cole Yummy yarn in mint green. Sometimes it pays to just embrace what you have in your stash! As well as a main color for the body and ears, you’ll need a contrasting color in the same weight for the tummy (I’m using King Cole Yummy yarn in white) , and small quantities of yarn for the nose, mouth and flower crown.
• Crochet hook. I recommend using a size smaller than the yarn wrapper recommends, so that you can stuff your squishy bunny firmly without the stuffing bulging out between its stitches.
• Safety eyes. I’ve used 16mm safety eyes with a super bulky yarn. For lighter weight yarns, you might like to try 10 or 12mm eyes, and for heavier yarns 20mm eyes will be more to scale.
• A pom pom. You can buy a pom pom like me, or make one the old fashioned way, by wrapping yarn around two cardboard donut shapes.
• Toy stuffing.
• Felt. Or relatively heavy, stiff fabric, in several floral colors (optional).
• A darning needle.

Pattern notes

How tall your pattern will turn out depends on what weight yarn you use. As a (very) rough guide:

• Jumbo yarns make a bunny 9 to 12 inches tall.
• Super bulky yarns make a bunny 7 or 8 inches tall.
• Bulky yarn makes a bunny 6 inches tall.
• Worsted yarn makes a bunny 5 inches tall.
• DK yarns make a bunny 3-4 inches tall.

That’s just from the base to the top of the head – not including the flower crown!

To make your bunny, you only need to know a small number of basic (US) crochet terms:

Ch chain stitch
Sl st slip stitch
Sc single crochet
Hdc half double crochet
Inc increase (make 2 sc in the same space)
Hdc-inc make 2 hdc in the same space
Dec decrease

Since the pattern decreases rapidly to form a relatively flat base, I recommend using the invisible decrease method. Insert the hook into the front loop only of the next two stitches (left, below). Put the yarn over the hook and draw it through both front loops (two loops left on the hook). Yarn over again, and draw it through the remaining two loops (right, below).

Squishy crochet bunny pattern

Bernadette’s body, ears and belly patch were all made separately. The eyes and belly are added to the body before stuffing and closing it, and the ears, nose, mouth and tail are added after.

The body

You can start all of your bunny’s parts with either a magic circle, or by making four chains and joining them with a slip stitch to form a loop. I prefer a four chain loop for fluffy yarns like the one I’m using here, because in my experience they’re easier to tighten.

• Make a magic circle, or ch4 and sl st to join.
• 1st round: Ch 1, sc 8 into the magic circle or 4-ch loop (8 sts)
• 2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)
• 3rd round: *1 sc, inc* 8 times (24 sts)
• 4th round: *2 sc, inc* 8 times (32 sts)
• 5th round: *3 sc, inc* 8 times (40 sts)
• Rounds 6 – 23: Sc all the way round
• 24th round: 3 dec, sc 8, 6 dec, 8 sc, 3 dec (28 sts)
• 25th round: 3 dec, sc 2, 6 dec, 2 sc, 3 dec (16 sts)
• Put a stitch marker into the loop on your hook, and cut your yarn leaving a 24 inch tail.

I should say now – I took these photos over the course of a whole day, during which the weather changed by the minute. So I don’t think there are any two photos where the yarn looks the same color!

The ears

Make two.

• Make a magic circle, or 4-ch loop.
• 1st round: Ch 1, sc 8 into the magic circle or 4-ch loop (8 sts)
• 2nd round: *Sc 3, inc* twice (10 sts)
• 3rd round: *Sc 4, inc* twice (12 sts)
• 4th round: *Sc 5, inc* twice (14 sts)
• 5th round: *Sc 6, inc* twice (16 sts)
• 6th round: *Sc 7, inc* twice (18 sts)
• 7th round: Sc all the way round (18 sts)
• 8th round: *Sc 7, dec* twice (16 sts)
• 9th round: Sc all the way round (16 sts)
• 10th round: *Sc 6, dec* twice (14 sts)
• 11th round: *Sc 5, dec* twice (12 sts)
• 12th round: *Sc 4, dec* twice (10 sts)
• 13th round: *Sc 3, dec* twice (8 sts)

Cut the yarn about 12″ from the hook, slip stitch once, and pull the yarn end all the way through the stitch.

The tummy

My bunny pattern’s tummy is a kind of flattened semi-circle. It’s still made in rounds, but with a symmetrical pattern of half double crochet stitches and increases to create the right outline. Make one, using your contrasting yarn.

• Make a magic circle, or ch4 and sl st to join.
• 1st round: Ch 1, sc 8 into the magic circle or 4-ch loop (8 sts)
• 2nd round: 8 inc (16 sts)
• 3rd round: Sl st, sc, hdc-inc, hdc, inc, sc 2, inc 2, sc 2, inc, hdc, hdc-inc, sc, sl st (22 sts)
• 4th round: Sl st 3, inc, hdc-inc 2, *sc, inc* 5 times, sc, hdc-inc 2, inc, sl st 2 (33 sts)

Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing, and pull the tail all the way through the last slip stitch.

Assembling your squishy crochet bunny

First, spread the body out flat. Since the decreases are clustered at the sides, it will only lie flat with the opening at the bottom running from side to side. Position the safety eyes 6 stitches apart, between rows 10 and 11, and push the backs on firmly. Line up the straight bottom edge of the tummy patch along the gap between rows 22 and 23. Make sure it’s central, and use the yarn tail to sew it down.

Fill the body firmly with toy stuffing, then use the yarn tail to work one more round:

• 26th round: 8 dec (8 sts). Sl st, and pull the yarn tail right through the stitch.

Close the remaining hole using mattress stitch through the front loops only. Make the stitches loosely at first following the guide in picture 1. Then pinch the start point firmly, and pull the yarn tail in the opposite direction to zip up the opening.

This is what your bunny should look like so far:

Sewing on the ears

Sew the ears onto the sides of the head, with the tops about level with the 4th round of the body. I decided to only catch the uppermost edge of the opening at the top of the ear in my stitches. This helps the ears sit flat against the top of the head, but it’s not essential. If you’re planning to give your squishy bunny to a small child, it might be a good idea to sew through all of the stitches, so the ears are joined as securely as possible.

Embroidering the nose and mouth

To embroider the nose, mouth and whiskers, you’ll need a length of yarn 2-4 times the depth of your squishy from front to back. Thread it onto a darning needle, and push it through from the center of the back to a point between rows 12 and 13, and halfway between the eyes. This is going to be the bottom tip of the nose. Embroider the vertical stitches on the nose first, then the horizontal stitch along the top of the nose, and finally add the mouth. Here’s an illustration of where the stitches go:

Alternatively, if you’d rather not embroider the nose, you could make a crochet nose following the same pattern as for my squishy crochet cat pattern, and sew it on.

Tail time!

I’m hooked on the delayed gratification of saving finishing touches like this for last (or next-to-last, in this case). If you’ve also managed to wait until now to add your bunny’s tail, well done. But if you’ve already jumped the gun, I won’t judge!

To attach Bernadette’s tail, I sat her on a flat surface and gave her whole body a gentle downwards squash, so that she stood up unaided. Then I positioned the tail so that it just touched the table. Since my pompom is store bought, it came with two ribbons for tying it in place, but obviously a length of yarn stabbed through the center of the pompon will work just as well.

Adding a flower crown

When I was designing this pattern, I couldn’t imagine it working without a flower crown. I think I was concerned it would look a bit underwhelming and forgettable without one. As it is, I think the pattern turned out pretty dang cute, so I’m downgrading the flower crown to simply ‘optional’. But I do love it, and it’s super simple to make.

You’ll need some felt, or heavy fabric. I found this pack of fresh pastel shades, to echo Bernadette’s minty fur. In these pictures, I’ve cut out enough pieces to make 6 flowers, but in the end I only use 5. There’s no harm in having a little extra choice!

Each flower starts with two circles (below, left). The larger circle has roughly the same diameter at the distance between the bunny’s ears – find a household item about the right size to draw around. The smaller circles are about ½ to ⅔ of the diameter of the larger circles.

Cut approximately equal-sized petals around the edge of the circles (below, center). I’ve gone for five petals, but four, six, or a mix of different quantities would all be very effective. Place a smaller flower on top of each large flower. Thread 12” of yarn onto a darning needle, and make 1 or 2 stitches through the center of the flowers to hold both pieces together. Leave the yarn tails in place for tying the flower to the head (below, right).

Arrange the flowers in roughly this area at the front of your bunny’s head:

They ought to be gathered closely enough together that they prop each other’s petals up. But not so close that they push each other closed! Thread one yarn tail under the closest stitch on your bunny’s head then tie it to the other yarn tail.

Trim the ends to an inch long, and poke them inside the body.

Finished!

And there you have it! A simple route to a quick and cute crochet bunny. For a different take on an amigurumi rabbit, don’t miss Lucy’s bunny and wild rabbit patterns. I love how two crocheters can hear the words ‘crochet bunny’ and picture such different end results!

Are you going to make your own squishy crochet bunny?

Let us know what color you’ll use in the comments box down below. Will you make your own pompom tail, or leave off the flower crown? Show off your finished project by tagging Lucy on Facebook or Instagram. And happy crocheting!

The post Squishy Crochet Bunny Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

This free rabbit crochet pattern is easy to follow. It works up pretty quickly, and you’ll have fun making your own cute amigurumi bunny.

• Here’s what you’ll need.
• Pattern notes and techniques.
• Free crochet rabbit pattern.

And when you’re done, you can make lots of buddies for him when you check out my farmyard creature collection!

Your Equipment List

Here’s what you’ll need to crochet your wild rabbit.

• 4mm crochet hook
• Yarn needle*
• 50g brown aran yarn
• 20g pink aran yarn
• 20g white wool DK yarn
• Toy safe stuffing*
• 10mm safety eyes*
• Slicker brush (optional)

Your DK yarn will need to be wool based, I used an acrylic wool blend for the brown and a cotton blend for the pink sections.

The Free Crochet Rabbit Pattern

You’ll be crocheting your bunny in sections. They’ll all use the 4mm hook, but watch out for instructions on when to swap colors.

Crocheting the Rabbit’s Head

Work the rabbit’s head in your brown yarn.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

1sc x 12 (12)

Round 4

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 5

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 6 (24)

Round 6

1sc x 24 (24)

Round 7

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 6 (30)

Round 8

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 6 (36)

Round 9 – 13

1sc x 36 (36)

Round 14

(1sc x 4, sc2tog) x 6 (30)

Round 15

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 6 (24)

Insert the safety eyes at approximately the round 8 level, in the upper third of the head. Tie the backs together to pull them slightly into the head, then stuff the head so far.

Round 16

1sc x 24 (24)

Round 17

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 6 (18)

Round 18

(1sc, sc2tog) x 6 (12)

Round 19

sc2tog x 6, then hand sew to close.

Sew the Nose

Take your pink yarn, and weave back and forth just above your original magic circle using a needle. Then make a small marking below it to finish the appearance of a small mouth.

Amigurumi Rabbit Ears

The outer ears will be crocheted in brown yarn.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

1sc x 12 (12)

Round 4

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 5 – 12

1sc x 18 (18)

Round 13

(1sc, sc2tog) x 6 (12)

Round 14 – 15

1sc x 12 (12)

Making the Inside of the Ears

Your rabbit’s inner ear section will be crocheted in pink yarn.

Round 1

Ch8

Round 2

Working along and around your chain:

sk, 1sc x 6, 3sc, 1sc x 6

Round 3

Turn

ch1, 1sc x 6, 3sc, 1sc x 7, slst and tie off.

Finishing your crochet rabbit’s ears

Take the original tail from your inner ear’s chain, attach a needle and sew it through the central loops to hide it. Cut off leaving no visible end.

Now using the other tail end of the inner ear section, weave this section onto the brown outer section.

Then with the brown yarn, sew the edges of the brown section of the ear onto the pink to give a slightly raised edge.

The end of the ears can now be sewn onto the top of your crochet rabbit’s head.

Crochet Rabbit’s Body Pattern

Crochet your bunny’s body in brown yarn.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches (8)

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 4 – 5

1sc x 24 (24)

Round 6

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 7 – 16

1sc x 32 (32)

Round 17

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 8 (40)

Round 18 – 20

1sc x 40 (40)

Round 21

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 8 (32)

Round 22

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 8 (24)

Round 23

(1sc, sc2tog) x 8 (16)

Round 24

sc2tog to close, tie off and hide the loose end.

Attaching the head

You can now sew the head onto your body. Weave tightly back and forth to secure the head, with the nose pointing forwards.

Crocheting the Tail

Crochet the tail in white wool yarn, using two strands held and worked together.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3 – 4

1sc x 12 (12)

Fluff it up!

Take the slicker brush (or whatever brush you can find!) and groom the tail to allow it to fluff up.

With your yarn needle and the white yarn, sew the tail onto the back end of your bunny.

Crocheting your Front Legs

All of your rabbit’s legs will be crocheted in brown yarn.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3 – 7

1sc x 12 (12)

Fill the legs to this point.

Round 8 – 9

1sc x 12 (12)

Sew the leg end flat without stuffing it any further.

Mark your planned leg positions with pins to make sure they are even, then hand sew them on approximately six rounds down the body’s original magic circle.

The Back Feet

Your back legs are going to be made in two sections, the feet and the legs. Work both in your brown yarn with the 4mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3 – 6

1sc x 12 (12)

Round 7

1sc x 6, then stop this round and turn your work over.

Round 8

ch1, 1sc x 6.

Fill in the toe end only with stuffing. The open section will be used to attach to the leg.

Crochet Rabbit’s Back Legs

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches (8)

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 4

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 5

1sc x 32 (32)

Round 6

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 8 (24)

Round 7

(1sc, sc2tog) x 8 (16)

Round 8

sc2tog to close, and sew closed.

You can now sew your feet to the legs, and the legs onto the body.

Your Crochet Rabbit Pattern

I designed this crochet rabbit pattern to reflect the adorable wild rabbit, but if you’d like to make it your own feel free to change up the colors and add in some markings too! And don’t forget to let me know how you get along.

Happy Crocheting,

Lucy Kate, x

*The products linked in this pattern were carefully selected by Lucy Kate Crochet. If you decide to purchase using the links provided, we may earn a small commission on that sale. This is at no extra cost to you.

The post Free Wild Rabbit Crochet Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

My scruffy crochet sheep pattern might look detailed, but it’s super simple to hook up. I designed it as a beginner friendly amigurumi pattern, that will take you just a few evenings of fun to crochet.

I created the body parts in separate sections, using rounds of single crochets from magic loops. Then I crocheted the wool into simple curls with single crochets worked into chains. It couldn’t be easier!

• Your equipment list.
• Notes for new crocheters.
• The free crochet sheep pattern.

My crochet sheep pattern is suitable for beginners, and I will give you plenty of extra information to help even new crocheters follow along. You can also check out my similarly designed crochet alpaca pattern along with several other farmyard pals!

Your Crochet Sheep Kit List

• Lily Sugar ‘n Cream worsted weight cotton yarn* in Ecru (off white)
• Lily Sugar ‘n Cream worsted weight cotton yarn* in Jute (pale brown)
• 4mm crochet hook
• Safety eyes*
• Toy safe stuffing*

Pattern Notes

The pattern is beginner friendly, with the caveat that you’ll need to be comfortable sewing with a large needle as well as with putting together the basic crochet techniques.

You’ll need to know how to make a magic circle, chain and single crochet.

Points to watch out for in the main pattern include the partial increase to form the amigurumi sheep’s forehead, and the order in which you’ll want to attach the legs to keep them even.

Stuffing is another area where new crocheters struggle. I truly believe it’s fundamental to the look of the toy to not over fill your body parts, as it can cause the stitches to stretch and the shape to distort. Don’t pack it in, all I do is just gently push it inside until I feel a little resistance.

Your Scruffy Sheep Crochet Pattern

You’re going to crochet your little sheep in two main stages. The first is in the jute yarn, where you’ll make the head, body, tail and legs. The second is in the white ecru yarn, which will make up the crocheted fleece coat.

Crocheting Your Sheep’s Head

Work this section in your jute yarn with the 4mm crochet hook. Have your safety eyes and some toy stuffing ready.

The Body and Tail

These sections will be crocheted as one section, in the jute yarn with the 4mm crochet hook.

Sew the sheep’s head onto the body. Doing it at this point will enable you to totally disguise the seam and to more easily weave in and out.

Crocheting Your Sheep’s Legs

Continue working in the jute yarn and using the 4mm crochet hook.

Fill the leg with toy stuffing. Slip stitch and leave a long end ready for sewing.

Joining The Legs

Once you’ve made up four identical sheepy legs, you can begin to sew them onto the underside of the sheep.

It’s best to do them all at once, so that you can line them up and check your symmetry carefully before you begin.

I like to sew the legs together in pairs, before then attaching the joined legs onto the front and back of the sheep’s underside.

I recommend tacking them on loosely, then standing the crochet sheep up to eyeball the stance before you commit to a firm attachment.

Amigurumi Sheep Ears

Work in the jute yarn with the 4mm crochet hook.

• Chain six, skip the first loop then single crochet into the next five stitches.
• Chain two, then make a single crochet into the next four stitches and slip stitch into the next.
• Tie off with a long thread, read to weave into the sides of the head.

Crocheting The Woolly Fleece Hair

You are going to make your sheep’s hair by crocheting chains and single crocheting back into the chain. You can find a full tutorial for this section on YouTube here or by watching the embedded video at the start of this guide.

I make the chains in strips of between sixty and a hundred stitches, then weave them onto the body and top of the head one at a time.

You can crochet the strips of wool onto your sheep, but it’s easier to use a large needle with some of the yarn.

Make the fleece as thick as you like, leaving some curls hanging down and sewing them tighter together to get a bushier feel.

Your Little Sheep Toy

Crochet sheep are often depicted as soft, cuddly, clean and neat. The reality of keeping sheep is a far cry from this fresh-as-a-daisy image. Sheep are aloof as often as they are pushy, and my goodness are they great at getting the foliage tangled in their gorgeous yarny coats.

My family’s handful of ewes are pets really, but next year we’re going to start spinning their glorious wool into yarn. In the meantime, I really wanted to give a nod in this crochet pattern to the reality of smallholding livestock, with this adorable but ever so scruffy amigurumi sheep.

This is one of my smaller amigurumi projects. I designed and crocheted the pattern in an evening, so I’m confident an experienced crocheter would be able to work this up in just a few hours. The most time consuming part is chaining and single crocheting the fleece, but I also found it very enjoyable.

I can’t wait to hear what you think of my scruffy crochet sheep pattern, and please do share any questions or thoughts in the comments section or on social media for me.

Happy Crocheting!

Lucy Kate, x

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