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Free Wild Rabbit Crochet Pattern

Lucy Kate — Mon, 04 Mar 2024 16:55:16 +0000

This free rabbit crochet pattern is beginner friendly and easy to follow. It works up pretty quickly, and you’ll have fun making your own cute amigurumi bunny.

Here’s what you’ll need.
Pattern notes and techniques.
Free crochet rabbit pattern.

And when you’re done, you can make lots of buddies for him when you check out my farmyard creature collection!

Your Equipment List

Here’s what you’ll need to crochet your wild rabbit.

4mm crochet hook
Yarn needle*
50g brown aran yarn
20g pink aran yarn
20g white wool DK yarn
Toy safe stuffing*
10mm safety eyes*
Slicker brush (optional)

Your DK yarn will need to be wool based, I used an acrylic wool blend for the brown and a cotton blend for the pink sections.

Pattern Notes

Here are the crochet techniques you will need to create your amigurumi rabbit. You’ll find the meaning of the abbreviations and links to tutorials for stitches and instructions you aren’t familiar with.

sc – single crochet
2sc – make two single crochets into one stitch
sc2tog – use one single crochet to join two stitches together
ch – chain
sk – skip the next stitch
slst – slip stitch

The Free Crochet Rabbit Pattern

You’ll be crocheting your bunny in sections. They’ll all use the 4mm hook, but watch out for instructions on when to swap colors.

Crocheting the Rabbit’s Head

Work the rabbit’s head in your brown yarn.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

1sc x 12 (12)

Round 4

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 5

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 6 (24)

Round 6

1sc x 24 (24)

Round 7

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 6 (30)

Round 8

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 6 (36)

Round 9 – 13

1sc x 36 (36)

Round 14

(1sc x 4, sc2tog) x 6 (30)

Round 15

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 6 (24)

Insert the safety eyes at approximately the round 8 level, in the upper third of the head. Tie the backs together to pull them slightly into the head, then stuff the head so far.

Round 16

1sc x 24 (24)

Round 17

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 6 (18)

Round 18

(1sc, sc2tog) x 6 (12)

Round 19

sc2tog x 6, then hand sew to close.

Sew the Nose

Take your pink yarn, and weave back and forth just above your original magic circle using a needle. Then make a small marking below it to finish the appearance of a small mouth.

Amigurumi Rabbit Ears

The outer ears will be crocheted in brown yarn.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

1sc x 12 (12)

Round 4

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 5 – 12

1sc x 18 (18)

Round 13

(1sc, sc2tog) x 6 (12)

Round 14 – 15

1sc x 12 (12)

Making the Inside of the Ears

Your rabbit’s inner ear section will be crocheted in pink yarn.

Round 1

Ch8

Round 2

Working along and around your chain:

sk, 1sc x 6, 3sc, 1sc x 6

Round 3

Turn

ch1, 1sc x 6, 3sc, 1sc x 7, slst and tie off.

Finishing your crochet rabbit’s ears

Take the original tail from your inner ear’s chain, attach a needle and sew it through the central loops to hide it. Cut off leaving no visible end.

Now using the other tail end of the inner ear section, weave this section onto the brown outer section.

Then with the brown yarn, sew the edges of the brown section of the ear onto the pink to give a slightly raised edge.

The end of the ears can now be sewn onto the top of your crochet rabbit’s head.

Crochet Rabbit’s Body Pattern

Crochet your bunny’s body in brown yarn.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches (8)

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 4 – 5

1sc x 24 (24)

Round 6

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 7 – 16

1sc x 32 (32)

Round 17

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 8 (40)

Round 18 – 20

1sc x 40 (40)

Round 21

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 8 (32)

Round 22

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 8 (24)

Round 23

(1sc, sc2tog) x 8 (16)

Round 24

sc2tog to close, tie off and hide the loose end.

Attaching the head

You can now sew the head onto your body. Weave tightly back and forth to secure the head, with the nose pointing forwards.

Crocheting the Tail

Crochet the tail in white wool yarn, using two strands held and worked together.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3 – 4

1sc x 12 (12)

Fluff it up!

Take the slicker brush (or whatever brush you can find!) and groom the tail to allow it to fluff up.

With your yarn needle and the white yarn, sew the tail onto the back end of your bunny.

Crocheting your Front Legs

All of your rabbit’s legs will be crocheted in brown yarn.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3 – 7

1sc x 12 (12)

Fill the legs to this point.

Round 8 – 9

1sc x 12 (12)

Sew the leg end flat without stuffing it any further.

Mark your planned leg positions with pins to make sure they are even, then hand sew them on approximately six rounds down the body’s original magic circle.

The Back Feet

Your back legs are going to be made in two sections, the feet and the legs. Work both in your brown yarn with the 4mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3 – 6

1sc x 12 (12)

Round 7

1sc x 6, then stop this round and turn your work over.

Round 8

ch1, 1sc x 6.

Fill in the toe end only with stuffing. The open section will be used to attach to the leg.

Crochet Rabbit’s Back Legs

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches (8)

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 4

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 5

1sc x 32 (32)

Round 6

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 8 (24)

Round 7

(1sc, sc2tog) x 8 (16)

Round 8

sc2tog to close, and sew closed.

You can now sew your feet to the legs, and the legs onto the body.

Your Crochet Rabbit Pattern

I designed this crochet rabbit pattern to reflect the adorable wild rabbit, but if you’d like to make it your own feel free to change up the colors and add in some markings too! And don’t forget to let me know how you get along.

Happy Crocheting,

Lucy Kate, x

*The products linked in this pattern were carefully selected by Lucy Kate Crochet. If you decide to purchase using the links provided, we may earn a small commission on that sale. This is at no extra cost to you.

The post Free Wild Rabbit Crochet Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Shell Stitch Granny Square

Sarah Holloway — Thu, 23 Nov 2023 13:34:36 +0000

The shell stitch granny square can be a fiddly challenge at first, but it’s more than worth the effort! A single shell stitch granny square makes an attractive coaster, place mat or pot stand. Or if you keep working outwards for long enough, a beautiful blanket with an attractive scalloped border. Alternatively, multiple shell stitch squares can be pieced together using the join-as-you-go method, to achieve a decorative tiled effect. The appearance of shell stitch grannies also changes dramatically depending on where you make color changes. So if you’re keen to flex your crochet muscles and experiment with something a little out of the ordinary, this is the perfect pattern to try!

Choosing a yarn and getting started
How to make a shell stitch granny square
When to stop
Playing with color

Choosing a yarn and getting started

Shell stitches are pretty, versatile clusters of double crochet, joined at the bottom but not at the top. There are several popular shell stitch variations that can be adapted to making granny squares, by working them outwards from the center, rather than in rows. In this article I’m going to focus on using classic shell stitch (also known as the solid shell stitch). It’s a lovely, dense crochet stitch without many gaps or holes – perfect for coasters that don’t let drips through, and blankets that don’t let heat out! Here are a couple of notes before you get started:

Choose a relatively smooth yarn for shell grannies, since their impact is all in the layout of your stitches. You don’t want that detail getting lost in a haze of fuzz!
Each row of shells is made by adding two rounds of stitches.
The first four rounds require a bit of concentration and counting the first time you make them. After that, the underlying pattern is easy to follow, and there’s something quite pleasing and mindful about it.
There are a couple of techniques that you don’t often see in granny squares, but I’ve got lots of detailed photos to help you follow them.
If you’ll be joining your squares, stop one row before they reach the desired size, so you can join them later – we’ll come back to this later!

How to make a shell stitch granny square

This pattern uses standard American crochet terms and abbreviations.

Ch = Chain
Ch sp = Chain space
Dc = Double crochet
Sc = Single crochet
Sl st = Slip stitch

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches. Ch 4 (which represents 1 dc, and 1 ch), *dc, ch* seven times, sl st into 3rd link of the ch 4 to join.

Round 2

Ch 1. Working into the chain spaces only, *sc into the next space, dc 7 into the following space* four times. Sl st into first sc to join.

Round 3

Ch 4. (Dc, ch 3, dc, ch, dc, ch 5) into the same sc you slip stitched into at the end of round 2. (Dc, ch, dc, ch 3, dc, ch, dc, ch 5) into the next 2 sc. Into the final sc: dc, ch, dc, ch 3, dc, ch, dc, ch 2 (not 5!). Join by making a dc into the 2nd link of the ch 4.

Here’s a diagram of where all those stitches are going. The round starts at the star, and works counterclockwise:

And here’s how it going to look once you’ve made it:

Take a quick look at that join, and how it bridges the final gap using two chains and one double crochet, rather than 5 chains and a slip stitch. It’s a bit unusual, and fairly unique to granny squares made from shell stitch. But it means your next round starts right above the center of a shell. Clever, huh?

Round 4

Ch 1. Sc into the top of the 4th dc of the shell from round 2 – make sure you work your stitch around the post of the dc that joined round 3 as well. Dc 7 into the ch 4 space from round 3. Sc into the ch 3 space. Dc 7 into the next ch space. Sc into the top of the 4th dc of the next shell from round 2. Make sure you catch the ch 5 from round 3 in your stitch. *Dc 7 into ch 1 sp, sc into ch 3 sp, dc 7 into ch 1 sp, sc into the 4th dc of the next shell* twice more. Dc 7 into ch 1 sp, sc into ch 3 sp, dc 7 into ch 1 sp. Sl st into the chain stitch from the start of the round to join.

Here’s a diagram of where to place those stitches. Remember, start at the star, and work counterclockwise.

There’s a real mix of inserting your hook into the top loops of previous stitches, and into chain spaces, so pay close attention to that at first. It will all come very easily in another couple of rounds! Here’s a picture of how round 4 looks when it’s done:

Round 5

Ch 4. (Dc, ch 5) into the first sc you made in round 4. *(Dc, ch, dc, ch 3, dc, ch, dc, ch 5) into the next sc, and (dc, ch, dc, ch 5) into the sc after that* three times. (Dc, ch, dc, ch 3, dc, ch, dc, ch 2) into the final sc, and join with a dc to the 2nd link of the ch 4.

Here’s another visual representation of where all those stitches are going:

And here’s how they’ll look:

Round 6

Hopefully you can see the pattern forming now!

For the next round, and all the following even-numbered rounds:

Ch 1.
Sc into the central stitch of the shell below.
Dc 7 into all the ch 1 spaces.
Sc into the center of all the previous shells, catching the ch 5’s as you go.
Sc into the ch 3 corner spaces.
And sl st into the first ch to join.

Like this:

Round 7

My square is about 4″ across now, which I think is about the perfect size. But for a round 7, and all following odd-numbered rounds:

Ch 4.
(Dc, ch 5) into the first sc from the previous round.
(Dc, ch, dc, ch 5) into the sc stitches on the sides (with a deep indent).
(Dc, ch, dc, ch 3, dc, ch, dc, ch 5) into the sc at the corners (with a shallow indent).
And finish by working ch 2, joining with a dc into the 2nd link of the ch 4.

When to stop

For single-square projects, like coasters, place mats, pot rests, and blankets made in one continuous square, finish whenever your project reaches the size you want it to be. You can:

Finish on an even-numbered row, and your work will already have a perfect scalloped edge with a gorgeously vintage feel.
Or finish on an odd-numbered row, if you want a foundation for working a different type of border (I’m not sure why you would do this though!

If you’re making a blanket from lots of squares, you’ll need to stop making each one a row before they’re ‘done’. Shell stitch grannies don’t really lend themselves to being sewn together, and you’ll need to use the join-as-you-go technique when you work your final round. This can be an odd- or even-numbered round, and you can see the method for both in this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXJ83VG6m3o

Playing with color

Finally, where you make your color changes in a shell stitch granny square makes a big difference to how it looks. And I just want to show you that.

In the square on the left, I changed colors after rounds 2 and 4. In other words, I worked one odd-numbered row and one even-numbered row in the same color before changing. This produces a really clean, bold result. In the square on the right, I worked the odd-numbered rounds in dark red (except round 1) and the even-numbered rows in lighter colors. Picking out the odd numbered rows in a contrasting color produces a much more visually intricate design, which is very traditional for shell stitch granny square projects.

Shell stitch granny square – summary

Shell stitch granny squares can be simple and bold, or detailed and highly decorative. They make a very different impact depending on how big you make them, where you change color, and how you join them together. But even a lone 4″ square is beautiful, and can work by itself as a drinks coaster or mat. And that isn’t something that can be said for many types of granny square! Let us know how you’ll use your in the comments box down below.

The post Shell Stitch Granny Square appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Shaggy Crochet Highland Cow

Lucy Kate — Sun, 22 Oct 2023 18:18:10 +0000

My shaggy crochet Highland Cow pattern is a celebration of one of my favorite farm animals.

This pattern is suitable for crochet beginners, and you’ll have fun weaving that fabulous head of hair. If you fancy a less shaggy cow, check out my amigurumi Texas Longhorn here! And if you’d prefer a smaller farm animal to get started with, here’s my adorable amiguri sheep!

What you will need.
Pattern notes and extra information.
Free crochet Highland Cow pattern.

Your Crochet Kit List

For the muzzle I used Life Chunky by Stylecraft* in Oatmeal, which gives an agouti look. The body and bulk of the limbs used Knitcraft’s Everyday Chunky yarn in Rust. I used a two thirds split mixture of these yarns for the hairy head.

For the horns I went with a different weight of yarn to give it that distinct look of a totally different material. I used a cream shade of Rowan’s worsted weight yarn*.

Crochet Pattern Notes and Tips

This pattern builds from magic circles. There are tight rings of stitches that make the central section of many amigurumi animals.

The bulk of the stitches are single crochets, with standard increases and decreases. If you’re new to crochet then check out my crochet abbreviations guide here. You’ll also find a written explanation of each term when they first come up in the pattern.

Your Highland Cow’s tail will be crocheted from a simple chain, and the hair is woven using strands of yarn.

The Free Crochet Highland Cow Pattern

Watch out for a couple of quick color changes within this pattern, and make sure you count your stitches carefully using a stitch marker or a yarn scrap to mark the start of each round.

Crochet Highland Cow’s Muzzle

This section will be made entirely with your 5mm crochet hook and oat shade chunky yarn.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches (8)

Round 2

Put two single crochets into each stitch of the round.

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

Make one single crochet into the first stitch, and two into the next. Repeat a further seven times to complete the round.

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 4

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 5

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 8 (40)

Round 6

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 8 (48)

Round 7 – 8

1sc x 48 (48)

Round 9

Make one single crochet into the first four stitches, then use a single crochet to join the next two stitches together. Repeat for the length of the round, reducing the overall stitch count by eight.

(1sc x 4, sc2tog) x 8 (40)

Round 10

1sc x 40 (40)

Round 11

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 8 (32)

Round 12

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 8 (24)

Slip stitch into the next stitch, then tie off and leave a long train of yarn. Fill the cow’s muzzle with toy safe stuffing and set it to one side.

Crochet Highland Cow’s Head

Your Highland Cow’s head will be made using the chunky red yarn and 5mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches (8)

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 4

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 5

1sc x 32 (32)

Round 6

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 8 (40)

Round 7 – 10

1sc x 40 (40)

Round 11

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 8 (48)

Round 12 – 13

1sc x 48 (48)

Round 14

(1sc x 5, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 30 (51)

Round 15

(1sc x 6, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 30 (54)

Round 16

(1sc x 7, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 30 (57)

Round 17 – 18

1sc x 57 (57)

Round 19

(1sc x 8, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 30 (60)

Round 20

(1sc x 8, sc2tog) x 3, 1sc x 30 (57)

Round 21

(1sc x 7, sc2tog) x 3, 1sc x 30 (54)

Round 22

(1sc x 6, sc2tog) x 3, 1sc x 30 (51)

Round 23

(1sc x 5, sc2tog) x 3, 1sc x 30 (48)

Round 24

(1sc x 4, sc2tog) x 8 (40)

Round 25

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 8 (32)

Round 26

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 8 (24)

You are now going to attach the muzzle. Using a long thread of the oat shade of yarn, weave in and out of the circumference of the muzzle to attach it to the initial magic circle area of the head.

Once the muzzle is attached, sit the head on a flat surface and place the safety eyes. Initially put them both in and look to see if they are symmetrical before you stick the backs on.

When you are happy they are well placed, attach the backings then fill the head with toy stuffing.

Use a length of yarn sewn in through the front and out of the back of the muzzle to create nasal pit definition.

Round 27

(1sc, sc2tog) x 8 (16)

Round 28

sc2tog to close. Leave a tail of yarn to insert back into the head.

Crocheting Highland Cow Ears

The ears of your Highland Cow will also be made in chunky red yarn using the 5mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 4

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 6 (24)

At the end of the round, make a slip stitch into the next stitch, cut off a long tail of yarn and use this to sew around three stitches of the circumference of the ear to the head of the cow. Stitch further around if you find the circle is too floppy.

Crocheting the Highland Cow’s Body

Your Highland Cow’s body will be crocheted using the 5mm hook and red shade of chunky yarn.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches (8)

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 4

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 5 – 7

1sc x 32 (32)

Round 8

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 8 (40)

Round 9 – 12

1sc x 40 (40)

Round 13

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 8 (48)

Round 14 – 20

1sc x 48 (48)

Round 21

(1sc x 5, 2sc) x 8 (56)

Round 22 – 26

1sc x 56 (56)

Round 27

(1sc x 6, 2sc) x 8 (64)

Round 28 – 29

1sc x 64 (64)

Round 30

(1sc x 6, sc2tog) x 8 (56)

Round 31

(1sc x 5, sc2tog) x 8 (48)

Round 32

(1sc x 4, sc2tog) x 8 (40)

Round 33

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 8 (32)

Round 34

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 8 (24)

Round 35

(1sc, sc2tog) x 8 (16)

Fill the body firmly with toy stuffing, leaving a gap of around half an inch at the top. When you’ve closed you can squeeze the body to even distribute the filling.

Round 36

sc2tog to close. Tie of the yarn, and weave the loose end back into the body.

Crocheting The Front Legs

Begin with your oat yarn and 5mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 3

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 6 (24)

Round 4

1sc x 24 into the back loop only (BLO)

Round 5

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 6 cc to red (18)

Round 6 – 24

1sc x 18 (18)

Round 25

(1sc, sc2tog) x 6 (12)

Fill with toy stuffing, leaving the top four rows empty.

Round 26

sc2tog to close.

Crochet The Back Legs

This is a very similar crochet pattern to the front legs, but gives wider hooves to your cow. Begin with your oat yarn and 5mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 4

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 6 (24)

Round 5

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 6 (30)

Round 6

1sc x 30 BLO (30)

Round 7

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 6 (24)

Round 8

1sc x 24 (24)

Round 9

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 6 cc to red (18)

Round 10 – 24

1sc x 18 (18)

Round 25

(1sc, sc2tog) x 6 (12)

Fill with toy stuffing, leaving the top four rows empty.

Round 26

sc2tog to close.

How To Crochet Highland Cow Horns

This will be where you use your lighter weight, finer wool yarn. Use your white yarn and 4mm crochet hook. Try to keep the tension fairly tight. You’ll define the shape by sewing once you’ve completed them.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2 – 4

1sc x (6)

Round 5

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 6 -11

1sc x 12 (12)

Round 12

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 13 – 37

1sc x 18 (18)

Round 38

(1sc, sc2tog) x 6 (12)

Fill with toy stuffing.

Round 39

sc2tog to close, leaving a long tail of yarn for later sewing.

Giving the crocheted horns some shape

Take the tail of yarn and attach a yarn needle. Push the needle through round 39, emerging around two thirds of the way along the horn. Bring the needle to stitch around four rounds back towards your starting point.

Weave back and forth between those two rounds to create a kink in the horn. Tie off to secure it into the shape you desire.

Sewing The Crochet Highland Cow Together

I sewed my crochet highland cow together with a steel yarn needle. Attach the features to the face first, adding the ears then the horns afterwards. Follow this by joining the head to the body, and the limbs in pairs to ensure they stay symmetrical.

Crochet Highland Cow’s Hair

Highland cows have this amazing, shaggy coat. It’s especially notable around their faces, and droops low like bangs over their eyes.

I created my crochet cow’s hair using a 4mm crochet hook and two strands of yarn. Around a third of the time I paired an oat with a rust strand, the rest of the time I just doubled up the rust.

Hold two strands of yarn together.
Insert the crochet hook into a space. This can be either between the horns, or along the front side of the horns or the ears.
Pick up the yarn strands with the hook, twist and pull through until you have a loop protruding.
Then hook the cut end of the yarn, and pull through completely until tightly knotted.
Snip off the yarn at the skein, then cut the yarn length to your desired level on the cow’s face.

Let me know in the comments section if this isn’t clear, and I’ll be happy to make a short video detailing the method.

I grew up rurally, and my Dad’s best friend had a herd of these amazing creatures. They were beautiful yet strangely wild in appearance. I hope I’ve captured just a bit of their awesome essence in my amigurumi Highland Cow! I hope you have as much fun making this crochet cow pattern as I did designing it!

Happy Crocheting,

Lucy Kate, x

And now that you’re done – why not make him a sheepy buddy!

The post Shaggy Crochet Highland Cow appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Free Crochet Stick Man Pattern

Lucy Kate — Mon, 26 Sep 2022 12:35:00 +0000

Welcome to my free crochet Stick Man pattern! I’ll teach you how to crochet your very own Stick Man toy, in easy steps. You’ll find lists of the equipment you’ll need, the stitches the pattern uses and even instructions for translating abbreviations. This crochet toy is still one of my kids’ favorites years down the line from when I first crocheted it, and hopefully whoever you’re making it for will love him just as much!

What you’ll need to crochet your own Stick Man
Crochet Stick Man’s stitches
Your crochet stick man pattern
How to crochet a leaf
Instructions for joining your toy together

Crochet Stick Man Equipment

To follow this Stick Man crochet pattern you will need:

Crochet Stick Man Pattern Instructions

This pattern is made predominantly in rounds, working from a magic circle. The main stitch used is a single crochet (US terms). If you are new to crochet, you can find guides to how to make these stitches here:

The pattern will begin by being written in full terms, with abbreviations in italics. Thereafter the abbreviations will be used, once they have been established. The stitch count in each round is given in brackets at the end of the instruction.

If you would like a handy abbreviation chart to check as you go along, you can find one here.

Crochet Abbreviations Chart

Your Stick Man Crochet Pattern and joining instructions are given below. However, his leaves were made using a pattern from another website. I have linked this in the leaf section below.

Crochet Stick Man’s Head, Body And Leg

You are going to make your crochet Stick Man’s head, body and one of his legs, in one complete piece. He is a stick, after all! Start by working with your size 7 /4.5mm crochet hook and brown DK yarn.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches (6)

Round 2

Make two single crochets in each of the six stitches.

(2sc x 6) (12)

Round 3

Make one single crochet in the first stitch, then two single crochets in the second. Repeat for the round.

(1sc, 2sc) x 6 (18)

Round 4

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 6 (24)

Round 5

In the front loop only, make 1sc x 24 (24)

Round 6

In the back loop only, make 1sc x 24 (24)

Round 7 – 42

1sc x 24

Fill with toy stuffing

Round 43

1sc x 12 then chain 4 and join the chain across the body and into the first stitch of the round.

We will now be building the first of Crochet Stick Man’s legs.

Round 44

1sc x 12 then 1sc into each of the 4 chains.

Round 45 – 59

1sc x 16

Fill up to row 58

Round 60

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 3, then 1sc x 2

Round 61 – 62

1sc x 4, 1sc x 6 in the flo, 1sc x 3

Round 63

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 3, then 1sc

Round 64 – 78

1sc x 16

Fill very sparingly around the knee, then fill to round 77

Round 79

Single crochet two stitches together (sc2tog) until the leg is closed. Then sew shut and leave a long thread for sewing on the foot later.

Stick Man’s Second Leg

Crochet Stick Mans second leg will be made with a new section of yarn, but attaching it straight into the gap left beside the other leg. Use your size 7 /4.5mm crochet hook and brown DK yarn.

Round 1

Start the leg by making a slip stitch into the corner stitch at the top of the first leg and chaining one. Then make 1sc into each stitch around the bottom of the leg and at the other open side of body.

Round 2 – 17

1sc x 16

Round 18 – 19

1sc x 6 in flo, 1sc x 7

Round 20

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 3, then 1sc

Round 21 – 35

1sc in each stitch.

Round 36

Sc2tog to close.

Crochet Stick Man’s Knees

Using your brown yarn and size 7 / 4.5mm crochet hook, make two of the following:

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches.

Round 2

Then put 2sc into each stitch.

Slip stitch into the next stitch, cut off a long tail and tie off.

Crochet Stick Man Side Detail

Make a magic circle of six stitches.
Then put 2sc into each stitch.
Slip stitch into the next stitch, cut off a long tail and tie off.

Crochet Stick Man Feet

Using your brown DK yarn and 4.5mm crochet hook, make two of the following

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches

Round 2

2sc x 6 (12)

Round 3 – 8

1sc x 12

Flatten your foot base so that you have 6 stitches on top and 6 underneath.

Round 9

Chain 2, then double crochet (dc) through the top and bottom sc, joining them together.
Slip stitch through the next top and bottom pair of stitches
2dc into the next pair of stitches
Slip stitch through the next pair of stitches
Make 2dc into the next pair of stitches, then slip stitch into the side of the foot to complete.

Crochet Stick Man’s Arms

Using your size 7 /4.5mm crochet hook and brown DK yarn, make two of the following:

Round 1

Make a magic circle of three stitches.

Round 2

2sc x 3 (6)

Round 3 – 13

1sc x 6

Now, repeat Round 1 – Round 13 to make another finger

Round 14

Starting from the finger you just completed, and work a single crochet into the next stitch.
Then make an sc into each stitch around the other finger, joining them together. Move straight back onto the previous finger.
You should now have a ring of 12 stitches.
Carry on working from here.

Round 15 – 19

1sc x 12

Round 20 – 21

1sc x 6 in the flo, 1sc x 6 in blo

Round 22 – 39

1sc x 12

Fill with toy stuffing

Round 40

Sc2tog to close

Crochet Stick Man’s 3rd Finger!

The final little fingers are to be made separately. Use your brown DK yarn and size 7 /4.5mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Magic circle of five stitches

Round 2 – 6

1sc x 5

Fill with toy stuffing

Round 7

Sc2tog to close

Crochet Stick Man’s Nose

To make Stick Man’s crochet nose use your size 7 /4.5mm crochet and brown DK yarn.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of three stitches.

Round 2

2sc x 3 (6)

Round 3 – 11

1sc x 6

Fill with toy stuffing

Round 12

Sc2tog to close

Crochet Stick Man’s Eyes

With white yarn and your size 7 / 4.5mm crochet hook, make two of the following:

Round 1

Make a magic circle six stitches

Round 2

2sc x 6

Finishing Off

Thread your black DK onto a yarn needle, and sew through the centre of the eye. Weave back and forth through the centre and into each of the surrounding round 1 magic circle stitches, until he has a complete pupil.

Crochet Stick Man’s Leafs

I made various attempts at the crochet leaves for Stick Man. And I have to admit, I fell flat. Very flat. I mean to the extent that I am not even going to share photos of my attempts with you, as they were unidentifiable as leaves. Amorphous green blobs, with strange wavy edges simply weren’t going to cut it here. So I went back to my very favorite crochet leaf pattern and used that instead.

So to make your crochet Stick Man’s leaves, you will need to pop over to Attic24 here.

The triple layer flower pattern has a leaf tutorial at the bottom of the page. Follow it using a 2.5mm crochet hook, brown DK yarn for the spine and a green DK yarn for the rest of the leaf. If you haven’t come across Attic24 before, then I highly recommend a good snoop around the site while you’re there. It’s brilliant.

Joining Crochet Stick Man Together

You are now ready to join your Stick Man crochet toy together. Lay out the following crochet Stick Man pieces:

1 Body
2 Arms
2 Fingers
2 Feet
4 Leaves
2 Eyes
1 Nose

First few the feet onto the body. Using your brown yarn and needle, weave around the base of the leg and attach the foot, toes pointing forwards. Next sew the fingers onto the arms. One on the bottom, one on the top.

Then sew your leaves on. A pair on top of his head towards the back, and another pair underneath one of his arms. Use your crochet hook to pull the loose threads helping to secure the leaves of your Stick Man crochet toy in place. Finally pin the arms, nose and eyes in the position you would like them in.

Sew the eyes on using white yarn, working carefully around the circumference of each one. Remove pins as you secure each side to keep them level and in place.

Then using your brown yarn, very neatly sew the nose onto the center of the face. Sew through each single crochet stitch in the final round to ensure that it is tightly joined.

Last of all, sew the shoulder of the arm only your Stick Man’s crochet body. Check the angle of the arm as it’s a static fix, so you won’t be able to move them after you are done.

I hope you enjoy making your Stick Man crochet toy as much as I did. When you’ve finished, why not share a photo of him on my Facebook page or via Ravelry! You can also check out a totally lovely review of this pattern on Ravelry here.

More Crochet Toy Patterns

Here are some more of my top crochet toy patterns

How to crochet a cute cat
Instructions for crocheting a Poodle
Cute crochet pig pattern
How to crochet your own teddy

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