Crochet Patterns Archives - Lucy Kate Crochet

How To Crochet Flower Earrings

Lucy Kate — Fri, 22 May 2026 16:41:23 +0000

I end up taking my jewellery a lot these days, because I am regularly rolling around on the floor at jujitsu where any kind of bling would be a massive liability for me and my training partners. Which means that when I do go to the effort of putting in earrings, I want them to say something. And today, I decided I wanted them to show off my love for crochet with these flower earrings!

This pattern uses some more basic crochet stitches, however the size of the hook relative to the yarn is in my experience I little tricker to handle. If you are a newer crocheter and struggle with using a fine 2.5mm crochet hook with DK yarn for this, you’ll be absolutely fine sizing up to a 3.5mm or 4mm crochet and using the same size of yarn. Your earrings will be bigger and a little heavier, but they’ll still look awesome. I know, because I made them this size first and decided I wanted them smaller, but the larger ones still look fine really!

What You’ll Need

2.5mm crochet hook
DK white yarn
DK yellow yarn
Yarn needle
2 earring blanks

The Stitches

Magic circle
slst – slip stitch
dc – double crochet
4dc – four double crochets in one stitch
cc – color change

These are very similar stitches to the other floral jewellery accessories I’ve made too. If you like that look, then definitely check out my necklace, headband or bracelet patterns when you’re done.

Crochet Flower Earrings Pattern

Begin in your yellow yarn and make two flowers, one for each earring fitting.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches.

cc to white yarn

Round 2

Make 4dc and slip stitch into each stitch in the round.

At the end of the round, sew your loose ends very securely into the back of the flower. Remember that earrings twist, so making sure they are tight and neat is really important for this project.

Attaching the Earrings

Take a strand of the white yarn and attach a yarn needle. Ideally choose one fine enough to fit through the fixing at the base of your earring, but if you can’t do that just remove the needle, insert the yarn then reattach it when you need to.

Insert your needle at the top of one of the petals, then through the earring, then

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Crochet Flower Headband Pattern

Lucy Kate — Fri, 22 May 2026 16:07:24 +0000

I have made a few headbands in the past, they are usually the thick kind that hold my errant fringe out of the way, or tuck my hair out of the way on back hair days! But this one I wanted to have the cute factor as a primary function. It’s designed to look like a fun accessory, or to match with my flower bracelet, earrings or necklace for a bolder hippy-vibe look.

This crochet flower headband is made in a few different parts, but individually they are all pretty basic crochet skills that any confident beginner should be able to handle with no trouble. However, just in case you’re a bit newer to any of the techniques I have linked tutorials below that you can check out before you begin.

The Stitches

Magic circle
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
slst – slip stitch
ch – chain
sk – skip
Moss stitch
cc – color change

What You’ll Need

3.5mm crochet hook
5mm crochet hook
Chunky yellow nylon/cotton yarn
DK white cotton blend yarn
DK yellow cotton blend yarn
Yarn needle

I used Bernat Maker yarn for the headband and Hobbii Cosy yarn for the flowers.

My Crochet Flower Headband Pattern

I began by making the headband itself, the flowers were crocheted separately and then sewed on.

Begin by crocheting the headband with your 5mm crochet hook and chunky yarn.

Round 1

ch75, and slst to create a circle.

At this point pop it over your head to make sure it’s the right size, if it isn’t then adjust the length of the chain by a few stitches in whichever direction you think. Remember when it’s made it’ll likely be slightly tighter due to the tension of your stitches.

Round 2

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

Round 3 – 4

From this row onward all sc will be made into the following chain gap.

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

The Flowers

Begin in your yellow DK yarn. You are going to make five flowers to go around your headband.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches.

Close the circle then cc to white.

Round 2

(5dc, slst) * 5

At the end of the round sew in your loose ends very securely.

Attaching the Flowers

If you are anything like me, the joining section of your headband is not 100% as neat as the rest of it. So let’s make that area the one that’s going to be hidden at the back of your head under your hair.

Place it on the desk in front of you, with that piece furthest away. Now take your first flower and using the white yarn sew it to the front side of the headband. I would weave in and out of the petal sections, mattress stitch style, through the band until it feels secure.

Now you are going to attach two more flowers to each side of that one, about a half an inch apart.

When you’re done, sew in the loose ends and you are good to go!

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Daisy Crochet Flower Necklace – Two Easy Options

Lucy Kate — Fri, 22 May 2026 15:49:23 +0000

I couldn’t decide how I wanted my daisy crochet flower necklace to look, so I made two options! I’m still not sure which is my favorite, but that’s not a bad thing. I can wear them on different occasions, after all. Although, that said, I’m not sure I’m getting them back from my teenage daughter since I asked her to model them for me…

These crochet flower necklaces should be easy for any confident beginner to crochet who has made a few amigurumi or granny squares that begin with magic circles. If you’ve not made a magic loop before then I’ve linked a simple tutorial for you below to help with that.

What You’ll Need

I’m not sure that it’s clear from the photographs, but the flowers on each necklace are a slightly different size. For the single crochet daisy necklace I used a 2.5mm crochet hook, and for the multiple flower version I used a 3.5mm hook. The interesting thing here, is that I used the same DK weight yarn for both, it really demonstrates just how much of a difference a millimetre of hook makes.

2.5mm or 3.5mm crochet hook
DK yellow yarn
DK white yarn
Yarn needle
Necklace blank

I used a cord blank necklace, but any necklace will work. And if you don’t have a necklace blank, just crochet a long chain, and slip stitch the end to the beginning to make a loop.

The Stitches

Magic circle
dc – double crochet
5dc – make five double crochets into the same stitch
slst – slip stitch
cc – color change

Crochet Flower Necklace Pattern

For the necklace with multiple flowers, make seven of these with your 3.5mm hook. For the necklace with one you’ll only need to do it once with your 2.5mm hook.

Round 1

Begin in your yellow yarn. Make a magic circle of eight stitches.

Close the circle then cc to white.

Round 2

(5dc, slst) * 5

Beginners – This translates as make 5 double crochets into the next stitch, then slip stitch into the following. Repeat around the edge of the magic circle, slip stitching to close into the final stitch.

at the end of the round tie in your loose ends very securely, leaving one strand of yellow yarn free to sew onto the necklace.

Assembling the Necklace

Lay your necklace on the desk, and place the flowers face down with their loose tail exposed. Attach a yarn needle and sew back and forth across the back of the necklace. I went back and forth at least three times for each, and then sewed in the loose end as I would after crocheting.

For the necklace with multiple flowers, slide then so that one is in the center opposite the clasp, and the rest are about half a centimeter apart, at even intervals.

Then pop it on your neck, and smugly strut away to show off your awesome crocheting skills. And if you like the flower theme, definitely check out my flower bracelet, earrings and headband patterns as well!

The post Daisy Crochet Flower Necklace – Two Easy Options appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Free Crochet Glasses Holder Pattern

Lucy Kate — Wed, 20 May 2026 13:31:23 +0000

I wear big glasses. Wide, heavy frames. It’s a style I love, and have done for years so I don’t see that changing any time soon. But it does mean that off the shelf glasses holders are often not the right size for my specs! I had so much fun this week making up for it by making the most oversized, cute glasses holder of my own. It’s going to sit on my desk, so when I have to ditch my glasses to film YouTube videos (you wouldn’t believe the glare if I leave them on…) then I won’t end up knocking them off the desk and on the floor again…

What I Used

I went with one of my favorite yarns for this pattern, Bernat Maker, with a 5mm crochet hook. You’ll also need a pair of scissors or a yarn cutter, and ideally a yarn needle to sew in the loose ends when you’re done.

The Stitches

These are the stitches, abbreviations and terms that I have used in this pattern. If you are unsure of any of the techniques, I’ve linked them below for you.

ch – chain
sk – skip
slst – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
1sc x 5 – make one single crochet into each of the next five stitches
2sc – two single crochets into the same stitch
3sc – three single crochets into the same stitch
FLO – front loop only
BLO – back loop only

Adjusting the Pattern for Different Glasses

This pattern is ideal for bigger frames, but to make it work for a slimmer pair all you need to do is make the starting chain 2 rows longer, and make two fewer base rounds.

My Free Crochet Glasses Holder Pattern

This pattern is worked around a chain in a round. If you’re familiar with making amigurumi, the process is very similar once you get going.

Row 1

ch8

Row 2

sk1, 1sc x 6, 3sc, 1sc x 5, 2sc (16)

Row 3

2sc, 1sc x 5, 2sc x 3, 1sc x 5, 2sc x 2 (22)

Row 4

1sc, 2sc, 1sc x 5, (1sc, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 5, (1sc, 2sc) x 2 (28)

Row 5

1sc x 2, 2sc, 1sc x 5, (1sc x 2, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 5, (1sc x 3, 2sc) x 2 (34)

Row 6

1sc x 3, 2sc, 1sc x 5, (1sc x 3, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 5, (1 sc x 3, 2sc) x 2 (40)

Row 7

1sc x 4, 2sc, 1sc x 5, (1sc x 4, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 5, (1 sc x 4, 2sc) x 2 (46)

Row 8

1sc x 5, 2sc, 1sc x 5, (1sc x 5, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 5, (1 sc x 5, 2sc) x 2 (52)

Row 9

1sc x 6, 2sc, 1sc x 5, (1sc x 6, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 5, (1 sc x 6, 2sc) x 2 (58)

Row 10

1sc x 7, 2sc, 1sc x 5, (1sc x 7, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 5, (1 sc x 7, 2sc) x 2 (64)

Row 11

1sc x 8, 2sc, 1sc x 5, (1sc x 8, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 5, (1 sc x 8, 2sc) x 2 (70)

Row 12

1sc x 9, 2sc, 1sc x 5, (1sc x 9, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 5, (1 sc x 9, 2sc) x 2 (76)

At this point I stopped working in continuous rounds and switched to building up the sides using closed rounds

Row 13

ch2, FLO 1sc x 75, slst into the top of the chain

Row 14 – 16

ch2, 1sc x 75, slst into the top of the chain

Row 17 – 18

ch2, BLO 1sc x 75, slst into the top of the chain

Row 19 – 21

ch2, 1sc x 75, slst into the top of the chain

You can now tie off and use your yarn needle to weave in the loose ends.

And you’re ready to go! No more glasses on the floor!

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My Easiest Crochet Trinket Dish Pattern

Lucy Kate — Thu, 14 May 2026 12:31:12 +0000

I really wanted this crochet trinket dish to be quick and easy to make, but also to be actually practical. So the sides needed to be solid but neat, the base smooth and the color bold but easy to achieve. I immediately reached for my huge reel of Lily Sugar n Cream cotton yarn, because it’s in this cute candy style variegated yarn so no color changes required to get the patterned appearance. Plus being cotton, it’s going to hold the shape really well.

The only weird warning I have for you, is over the past day or so I’ve been absentmindedly using this dish as a coaster… I think it’s probably partially due to the shape, but also a sign that I need to crochet more actual coasters!

I have been on a real trinket dish mission lately, so if this one isn’t quite your style then you can check out the more traditional tray style one here, or the funky heart shaped dish here.

What I Used

3.5mm crochet hook
20g DK yarn (I used Lily Sugar n’ Cream variegated cotton blend yarn)
yarn needle

I recommend using a cotton yarn with this pattern because it’s structure requires a stiffer yarn to hold that nice shape. If you’re not a fan of cotton yarn, you might like to have a go with the heart crochet trinket dish instead because it holds it’s shape nicely without needing such a rough textured fiber.

The Stitches

I worked this pattern in the round, in the same manner as I would with one of my crochet toy patterns. If you have made even a simple amigurumi project before, you’ll be very familiar with how the pattern progresses.

Magic circle
sc – single crochet
2sc – make two single crochets into one stitch
FLO – front loop only
BLO – back loop only

Easy Crochet Trinket Dish Pattern

Work in your cotton yarn using your 3.5mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 4

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 5

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 8 (40)

Round 6

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 8 (48)

Round 7

(1sc x 5, 2sc) x 8 (56)

Round 8

(1sc x 6, 2sc) x 8 (64)

Round 9

(1sc x 7, 2sc) x 8 (72)

Round 10

(1sc x 8, 2sc) x 8 (80)

Round 11

FLO 1sc x 80

Round 12 – 13

1sc x 80

Round 14 – 15

BLO 1sc x 80

Round 16 – 17

1sc x 80

When you have finished your final round, use your fingers to pop the shape according to the front and back loop only section. The front loop only part will denote the circumference of the flat base, the two back loop sections will allow you to shape the edges.

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Crochet Trinket Tray

Lucy Kate — Thu, 14 May 2026 11:58:24 +0000

I have been making lots of crochet trinket dishes this week, in an effort to become more organised with the little items I usually leave littered and lost around my home. And so far, it’s working! I’ve made a heart shaped ring dish that I’m actually remembering to use, so the next plan was this more traditionally shaped crochet trinket tray. The intension behind this one is that I’ll use it to put in my stitch markers rather than filling my pockets with them!

Funnily enough, this trinket tray had a few false starts before I settled on the pattern I’m sharing with you today. I wanted a dense stitch to form the tray, for it to still have a distinctive look but one that wasn’t too textured. The issue with textured stitches in a tray is that they have the risk of catching on your items when they are put in and out, and that it won’t sit as neatly on my desk.

I tried a few different stitches, but none of them seemed to fit all those criteria. Happily, during one of our regular crochet clubs, my friend Sarah suggested I try linen stitches. These are dense and make the perfect lining for the tray, and I decided not to turn my work as you would usually with linen stitch to ensure that the base sat as flat as possible. The color changes have given the feeling of depth that this decision to reduce to texture could have taken away. And I’m so happy with how it’s turned out!

The Stitches

Linen stitches are less complicated than they look.

Magic loop
sc – single crochet
ch – chain
slst – slip stitch
cc – color change

What I Used

Lion Brand 24/7 brown DK cotton yarn
Lion Brand 24/7 blue DK cotton yarn
4mm crochet hook
Yarn needle

My Trinket Tray Pattern

Begin in your blue yarn, using your 4mm crochet hook

Round 1

Make a magic loop.

ch1, then work into the magic circle *sc 1, ch 2, sc 1, ch 1* 4 times. Slip stitch into the top of the first sc to join. The ch 2 spaces are your corner spaces, and the ch 1 spaces are side spaces.

cc brown

Round 2

sc 1 into the first side space.

ch 1. *Sc 1, ch 2, sc 1, ch 1* into the first corner space. Then working in the chain spaces only *sc 1, ch 1* into every side space, and *sc 1, ch 2, sc 1, ch 1* into each corner.

Slip stitch into the top of the first sc to join.

cc blue

Round 3 – 14

*sc 1, ch 1* into every side space, and *sc 1, ch 2, sc 1, ch 1* into each corner. Slip stitch into the top of the first sc to join.

change color at the end of the round, alternating between brown and blue.

Round 14 will be blue, do not change color for the final round

Round 15

ch2, then make 1sc into each edge stitch, and 3sc into the corners

Shaping Your Trinket Tray

Right now you’re sitting looking at a flat granny square. It’s beautiful, but it’s not hanging onto any trinkets.

What I do to give it shape now, and it’s a pretty classic crochet move, is to pinch in those corners.

The great thing about the color switching design of this crocheted tray, is that you can use those color change points to work out exactly how to get each corner the same size.

From the pointed corner count down three blue lines, and fold along the third blue line. Holding that line tight with one hand, use the other to sew in and out of each side with your blue yarn in a yarn needle.

Repeat for every corner, and then sew in your loose ends at those corners and underneath your dish at each color change.

And you’re ready to fill that tray with gorgeous little trinkets!

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Crochet Heart Trinket Dish

Lucy Kate — Wed, 13 May 2026 09:35:18 +0000

I have a love hate relationship with trinket dishes. I seem to either use them daily or to forget that they exist entirely. Beside my front door I have a frog dish which I store my keys in, and I swear I manage to keep using this because it’s so incredibly distinctive. With two fairly large frogs sitting on the side, it’s not like it’s easy to ignore. So I’ve had this idea to crochet some more trinket dishes, that are so unique that I can’t possibly forget to use them. The first is going to be this crochet heart trinket dish, which I’ll keep my wedding rings and earrings in when I’m out at jiu jitsu!

When I first designed this pattern I intended to just use a single yarn color, but when I’d nearly completed it the dish just didn’t pop in the way that I wanted to. So I added a last minute color change, and I think it’s made all the difference.

What I Used

I used Hobbii’s Cosy brand yarn to make my heart crochet trinket dish, but any cotton blend yarn should work just fine for this project. I’ve got to be honest with you, that company’s recent admission of their usage of AI has rather put me off the brand, so I would recommend swapping it out if you don’t have any already in your stash!

Remember, if you use a thicker yarn weight, make sure to size up your hook accordingly.

3.5mm crochet hook
10g pink DK cotton blend yarn
30g red Dk cotton blend yarn
Yarn needle

I recommend using a yarn needle to sew in your loose ends, but you can do this with a crochet hook if you don’t have one handy. I just find it takes a bit longer!

My Crochet Heart Trinket Dish Pattern

Begin in your red yarn with your 3.5mm crochet hook

Round 1

Make a magic loop

ch3, 1dc x 16 into the loop

Close the loop

Round 2

slst, dc, 3tr, 2dc, hdc x 4, (dc, tr, dc), hdc x 4, 2dc, 3tr, dc, slst

Round 3

slst, dc, 2dc, 3tr, 2dc x 2, hdc x 5, dc, (dc, tr, dc), dc, hdc x 5, 2dc x 2, 3tr, 2dc, dc, slst

Round 4

slst, sc, dc x 2, 2dc, 2tr, 2dc x 2, dc x 3, 2dc, hdc x 5, 2dc, 3dc, 2dc, hdc x 5, 2dc, dc x 3, 2dc x 2, 2tr, 2dc, dc x 2, sc, slst

Round 5

ch1, 1sc into each stitch, the slst into the ch1

cc pink

Round 6

Join your new color at the pointed base of the heart.

ch2, then make 1sc into each stitch of the round, slst into the top of the ch2 to close.

Now sew in your loose ends.

I find that when you create shapes like this with crochet they can benefit from being manipulated a little when you are finished. Use your finger tips to smooth the sides and make sure that they sit evenly. If you have any wrinkling of the edges, steaming or ironing the yarn can help you to produce a really neat finish.

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Easy Crochet Beach Bag In Summer Stripes

Lucy Kate — Tue, 05 May 2026 12:35:21 +0000

I have been in a real crochet bag mood recently, and it’s showing no signs of slowing! This crochet beach bag pattern is my latest and I cannot tell you how happy I’ve been with not only the finished design, but how simple it was to put together.

I used moss stitches to create this pattern, and if you aren’t familiar with them you’ll be pleased to hear that in reality all they are is a repetitive combination of single crochet, chain and skip. That’s it! Moss stitch works brilliantly for any project with a seaside theme, because it really lends itself to stripes and color changes.

The Stitches

moss stitch
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
slst – slip stitch
cc – color change

What You’ll Need

I used Bernat Maker yarn for this project, but any high cotton yarn will give you a nice finish. Bernat Maker is chunky yarn that is a blend of 75% cotton and 25% nylon if you want a close match in terms of fiber.

200g green chunky cotton blend yarn
200g blue chunky cotton blend yarn
200g yellow chunky cotton blend yarn
200g cream chunky cotton blend yarn
5.5mm crochet hook
yarn needle

Watch Out!

You might notice a small mistake in the images I’ve shared here. When moving between rows for the lower blue section, I forgot to slip stitch and turn to begin the next row, and instead just chained up. The bumpy section you can see in the image is the result. I didn’t notice for ages and didn’t want to frog when I did, hence you’ll see that imperfection. Don’t be like me, don’t use a turning chain for moss stitch in rounds to avoid this little lumpy issue!

My Free Crochet Beach Bag Pattern

Begin crocheting in your yellow yarn.

Row 1

ch70

Row 2

This row is going to be worked around the chain to make the base of the bag.

sk2, 2sc, 1sc x 67, 3sc, 1sc x 67, slst into the top of the starting chain two.

Row 3

ch3, sk1, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain.

Row 4 – 6

From this row onward all sc will be made into the following chain gap.

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

Cut off a loose end and tie off

cc cream

Row 7 – 10

Start from a chain gap at the edge of the bag.

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

Cut off a loose end and tie off

cc green

Row 11 – 12

Row 67 – 68

Start from a chain gap at the edge of the bag.

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain.

Now take your yarn needle, and use it to weave in the loose ends from each color change. Try to weave into the same colored stitches as the yarn you are hiding, to get the best results.

Crocheting Your Bag Strap

Begin working in your green yarn with your 5.5mm crochet hook.

Row 1

ch 350

Row 2

sk3, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a sc into the last chain

cc yellow

Row 3

*(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

cc cream

Row 4 – 5

*(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

cc blue

Joining the Strap

The ends of the strap are going to be sewn onto the bag at the base.

Hold your strap in half, with the ends placed by the base of the bag. Lay half under and half on top of the bag. Use stitch markers or safety pins to hold it in place, and measure the edges to ensure that they are the same distance from the side of the bags.

If your strap looks lumpy when you’ve pinned it, I recommend ironing it before you continue.

Once you’re happy with the positioning, use the blue yarn to sew the blue side to the bag, and the green yarn to sew the green side.

Finally use the yarn needle to sew in the loose ends, being sure to color match for the best finished look.

And you’re ready to fill it up and head off to the beach!

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Moss Stitch Crochet Tutorial And Pillow Pattern

Lucy Kate — Fri, 17 Apr 2026 09:43:36 +0000

If you’ve not tried crochet moss stitch before, you are going to love it. It’s one of those easy stitches that is actually beginner friendly. All you need to know to crochet moss stitches is the chain and single crochet. Yet the finished fabric is one that looks really detailed, especially if you make good use of your colors.

I’ll start with a quick explanation of how to crochet moss stitch, and then we’ll dive straight into the pillow pattern. Or if you would like a different moss stitch pattern, pop over to my beach bag here!

How To Crochet Moss Stitch

Moss stitch is worked as a paired repeat, using single crochets (sc), chains (ch) and skips (sk).

You will begin by making a train with an even number of stitches.

For the first row you’ll skip the first three loops, then make a single crochet and chain one. After each single crochet and chain one pair, you will skip the next stitch and work the same pairing into the following stitch.

For every subsequent row, you’ll make a ch2, then single crochet and chain one into each chain space from the previous row, until the final stitch where you will make 1sc.

And it really is that simple!

Moss Stitch Crochet Pillow Pattern

This pattern is crocheted as two separate sides, which you will hand sew together when you’ve finished.

What You’ll Need

5.5mm crochet hook
300g chunky yellow yarn
300g chunky cream yarn
Yarn needle
Cushion filler or toy safe stuffing

I used Bernat Maker yarn for my cushion, it’s 75% cotton and 25% nylon. If you use a plush yarn you might find you need to use a cushion pad rather than stuffing as it won’t give quite such closer stitches.

The Stitches

ch – chain
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
cc – color change

Side 1 – thin stripes

Row 1

ch74

Row 2

sk3, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a sc into the last chain

Row 3 – 5

ch2, then sc, ch1 into each chain space of the row, until the last stitch where you will make 1sc

cc yellow

Row 6

ch2, then sc, ch1 into each chain space of the row, until the last stitch where you will make 1sc

cc cream

Row 7 – 11

ch2, then sc, ch1 into each chain space of the row, until the last stitch where you will make 1sc

cc yellow

Row 12

ch2, then sc, ch1 into each chain space of the row, until the last stitch where you will make 1sc

Row 13 – 77

Repeat rows 7 – 12.

Side 2 – thick stripes

Row 1

ch74

Row 2

sk3, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a sc into the last chain

Row 3 – 5

ch2, then sc, ch1 into each chain space of the row, until the last stitch where you will make 1sc

cc yellow

Row 6 – 9

ch2, then sc, ch1 into each chain space of the row, until the last stitch where you will make 1sc

cc cream

Row 10 – 13

ch2, then sc, ch1 into each chain space of the row, until the last stitch where you will make 1sc

cc yellow

Row 14 – 76

Repeat rows 6 – 15

Tidying Up

Using your yarn needle, sew in the loose ends

Joining Together and Stuffing

Lay the two sides down, one on top of the other. You can now work around the edges, sewing using your yarn needle and cream colored yarn. Weave in and out each of the outside stitches. When you have sewn all but half of one side, fill the pillow with stuffing, then finish sewing to close.

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Cute Crochet Tote Bag Pattern

Lucy Kate — Tue, 07 Apr 2026 14:27:53 +0000

I’m so excited to share my crochet tote bag pattern with you, I genuinely think it’s one of the nicest and most practical designs I’ve come up with. It’s worked on a fairly traditional tote bag theme, but I’ve gone with a strong single color look and given it that extra dimension and texture by adding in some fun alpine stitch rows.

The massive benefit of single color projects is that you don’t have to think (or over think) about color matching, but you can still get something that’s got quite a bold design.

And funnily enough, this pattern came about somewhat accidentally. I recently decided I wanted to crochet my own bag to use at the store, and created a mesh grocery pattern which worked up really nicely. The problem is, I immediately started using it as my ‘crochet on the go’ bag and not for the purpose I’d made it for at all. So I found myself a few days ago starting the project again, with a very different feel. I decided what I wanted was something a bit bigger, and with much sturdier handles. And I have to tell you, I’m really happy with how it turned out.

What I Used

I used two skeins of Bernat maker yarn for this pattern, which wasn’t perhaps a yarn you’d naturally go to for a bag. It’s got a little bit of stretch, but this actually makes it ideal for a shopping bag that is going to need a little bit of give to easily accomodate the weird and wonderful purchases you’ll make from the store.

6.5mm crochet hook
2 skeins of Bernat Maker yarn*
Large yarn needle

*If you don’t want to use Bernat maker than select 500g of another similar fiber – this is 72% Cotton to 28% Nylon, in the same chunky/bulky weight.

The Stitches

You’ll need to be familiar with the following stitches and their abbreviations. And do be aware that these front post crochets are made dropped (in the style of alpine stitches), so you will work them two rows below your current round, not one.

ch – chain
sk – skip
sc – single crochet
slst – slip stitch
BLO – back loop only
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
fpdc – front post double crochet

Sewing on the Strap

Hold your strap in half, with the join section placed by the base of the bag. Lay half under and half on top of the bag, and fiddle around with it until the straps at even at both sides. Now use stitch markers or safety pins to hold it in place.

You can now, using a large yarn needle and the same yarn, sew your handle to the bag. It’s worth taking your time to get the handle placement just how you want it, and make sure to use your stitches to line it up nicely too. It’ll be worth that bit of extra effort for a perfect finish.

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