What You’ll Need

• 2.5mm crochet hook
• DK white yarn
• DK yellow yarn
• Yarn needle
• 2 earring blanks

The Stitches

• Magic circle
• slst – slip stitch
• dc – double crochet
• 4dc – four double crochets in one stitch
• cc – color change

These are very similar stitches to the other floral jewellery accessories I’ve made too. If you like that look, then definitely check out my necklace, headband or bracelet patterns when you’re done.

Crochet Flower Earrings Pattern

Begin in your yellow yarn and make two flowers, one for each earring fitting.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of six stitches.

cc to white yarn

Round 2

Make 4dc and slip stitch into each stitch in the round.

At the end of the round, sew your loose ends very securely into the back of the flower. Remember that earrings twist, so making sure they are tight and neat is really important for this project.

Attaching the Earrings

Take a strand of the white yarn and attach a yarn needle. Ideally choose one fine enough to fit through the fixing at the base of your earring, but if you can’t do that just remove the needle, insert the yarn then reattach it when you need to.

Insert your needle at the top of one of the petals, then through the earring, then back through the petal in the opposite direction through the same stitch. Tie off and then leaving a long tail of yarn to weave in through the petals.

The Stitches

• Magic circle
• sc – single crochet
• dc – double crochet
• slst – slip stitch
• ch – chain
• sk – skip
• Moss stitch
• cc – color change

What You’ll Need

• 3.5mm crochet hook
• 5mm crochet hook
• Chunky yellow nylon/cotton yarn
• DK white cotton blend yarn
• DK yellow cotton blend yarn
• Yarn needle

My Crochet Flower Headband Pattern

I began by making the headband itself, the flowers were crocheted separately and then sewed on.

Begin by crocheting the headband with your 5mm crochet hook and chunky yarn.

Round 1

ch75, and slst to create a circle.

At this point pop it over your head to make sure it’s the right size, if it isn’t then adjust the length of the chain by a few stitches in whichever direction you think. Remember when it’s made it’ll likely be slightly tighter due to the tension of your stitches.

Round 2

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

Round 3 – 4

From this row onward all sc will be made into the following chain gap.

slst into the next stitch, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a slst into the second loop of the starting chain. Turn.

The Flowers

Begin in your yellow DK yarn. You are going to make five flowers to go around your headband.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches.

Close the circle then cc to white.

Round 2

(5dc, slst) * 5

At the end of the round sew in your loose ends very securely.

What You’ll Need

I’m not sure that it’s clear from the photographs, but the flowers on each necklace are a slightly different size. For the single crochet daisy necklace I used a 2.5mm crochet hook, and for the multiple flower version I used a 3.5mm hook. The interesting thing here, is that I used the same DK weight yarn for both, it really demonstrates just how much of a difference a millimetre of hook makes.

• 2.5mm or 3.5mm crochet hook
• DK yellow yarn
• DK white yarn
• Yarn needle
• Necklace blank

I used a cord blank necklace, but any necklace will work. And if you don’t have a necklace blank, just crochet a long chain, and slip stitch the end to the beginning to make a loop.

The Stitches

• Magic circle
• dc – double crochet
• 5dc – make five double crochets into the same stitch
• slst – slip stitch
• cc – color change

Crochet Flower Necklace Pattern

For the necklace with multiple flowers, make seven of these with your 3.5mm hook. For the necklace with one you’ll only need to do it once with your 2.5mm hook.

Round 1

Begin in your yellow yarn. Make a magic circle of eight stitches.

Close the circle then cc to white.

Round 2

(5dc, slst) * 5

Beginners – This translates as make 5 double crochets into the next stitch, then slip stitch into the following. Repeat around the edge of the magic circle, slip stitching to close into the final stitch.

at the end of the round tie in your loose ends very securely, leaving one strand of yellow yarn free to sew onto the necklace.

What I Used

I went with one of my favorite yarns for this pattern, Bernat Maker, with a 5mm crochet hook. You’ll also need a pair of scissors or a yarn cutter, and ideally a yarn needle to sew in the loose ends when you’re done.

The Stitches

These are the stitches, abbreviations and terms that I have used in this pattern. If you are unsure of any of the techniques, I’ve linked them below for you.

• ch – chain
• sk – skip
• slst – slip stitch
• sc – single crochet
• 1sc x 5 – make one single crochet into each of the next five stitches
• 2sc – two single crochets into the same stitch
• 3sc – three single crochets into the same stitch
• FLO – front loop only
• BLO – back loop only

Adjusting the Pattern for Different Glasses

This pattern is ideal for bigger frames, but to make it work for a slimmer pair all you need to do is make the starting chain 2 rows longer, and make two fewer base rounds.

My Free Crochet Glasses Holder Pattern

This pattern is worked around a chain in a round. If you’re familiar with making amigurumi, the process is very similar once you get going.

Row 1

ch8

Row 2

sk1, 1sc x 6, 3sc, 1sc x 5, 2sc (16)

Row 3

2sc, 1sc x 5, 2sc x 3, 1sc x 5, 2sc x 2 (22)

Row 4

1sc, 2sc, 1sc x 5, (1sc, 2sc) x 3, 1sc x 5, (1sc, 2sc) x 2 (28)

What You Will Need

• 50g light pink cotton blend DK yarn
• 20g dark pink cotton blend DK yarn
• 4mm crochet hook

The Stitches

For this pattern I used some nice simple stitches including:

• sk – skip the next stitch
• ch – chain
• slst – slip stitch
• sc – single crochet
• 3sc – three single crochets into one stitch

Free Crochet Bow Pattern

Begin working in your light pink yarn

Round 1

Make a chain of 141 stitches

Round 2

The pattern is going to be worked around the chain in circular rounds from here onwards.

sk1, 1sc x 139, 3sc, 1sc x 139, 2sc, slst

Round 3

ch1, 1sc x 140, 3sc, 1sc x 141, 3sc, 1sc, slst

Round 4

ch1, 1sc x 141, 3sc, 1sc x 143, 3sc, 1sc x 2, slst

cc to dark pink

Round 5

ch1, 1sc x 142, 3sc, 1sc x 144, 4sc, 1sc x 3, slst

Separating Sections

To create the nicest look from this bow, you will now want to separate out three sections. First wrap some yarn around the middle of the tie. Then fold each side into three parts, and wrap at the furthest end third of each side.

The little ends will be your bow’s tails, the rest will make up the bulk of the bow.

Fold each side and using stitch markers pin it into the shape that looks the best.

What You’ll Need

• A hot water bottle
• DK yarn – cream, pale blue and dark blue – 50g of each
• 3.5mm crochet hook
• A button (mine has a 3cm diameter)
• Steel yarn needle

The Stitches

• ch – chain
• dc – double crochet
• slst – slip stitch
• cc – color change

My Crochet Hot Water Bottle Cover Pattern

I crocheted my hot water bottle cover in a few separate parts, which I joined together and then bordered

12 Mini Granny Squares

You are going to begin by making twelve mini granny squares, which will form the front side of the hot water bottle.

Work in your cream yarn to start with.

Round 1

ch4, slst into the first loop of the chain

Ch3 (as the first double crochet), then make two further double crochets into the center of the chain loop. ch3, *3dc, ch3. Repeat from * two more times, then slst into the top of the ch3 to join. Tie off, leaving a long til for weaving in later.

cc to pale blue

Round 2

Start in a corner gap.

ch3 (as the first dc) then make 2dc, ch3, 3dc into the same corner. ch1 then (3dc, ch3, 3dc) into each corner, then ch1 and slst into the top of your starting ch3.

Tie off, leaving a long tail of yarn to sew in later.

cc to dark blue

Round 3

Start in a corner gap.

ch3 (as the first dc) then make 2dc, ch3, 3dc into the same corner. *ch1, then make 3dc into the middle gap, ch1 then (3dc, ch3, 3dc) into the next corner. Repeat from * until the end of the round, where you will slst into the top of the starting chain.

Joining

I used the sewing method to join my twelve granny squares together, in a shape that was four tall by three wide. You can hide your loose ends so far at this point too.

Working Around the Bottle

You’re now going to use granny rows to create the back panel. Start working from the top corner of your rectangle of granny squares, stitching along the longer side.

Begin working in the dark blue yarn.

Row 1

The entire row will be worked in granny rows as follows, working clusters into the gaps:

ch3, 1dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1, 2dc, *2dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1, 2dc. Repeat from * until the end of the row.

Row 2

ch4, *3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch2. Repeat from * twice, then 3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1, 3dc, then 1dc into final stitch of the round.

Row 3

ch3, 1dc, ch1, *3dc, ch1. Repeat from * ten time, then make 2dc into the end gap.

Row 4

ch4, *3dc, ch1. Repeat from * until the end of the row, then make 1dc into the final stitch

cc to pale blue

Row 5 – 8

Repeat rows 3 to 4

cc to cream

Row 9 – 12

Repeat rows 3 to 4

cc to dark blue

Row 13 – 16

Repeat rows 3 to 4

cc to pale blue

Row 17 – 20

Repeat rows 3 to 4

cc to cream

Row 21 – 24

Repeat rows 3 to 4

cc to dark blue

Row 25 – 28

Repeat rows 3 to 4

The Bottom Section

Work around the bottom edge of your cover.

Row 1

Begin by making a chain of three stitches, then make 1dc into each stitch, or two dc into each gap, around the base of the cover. At the end of the round slst into the top of the starting chain to join.

Row 2

ch3, then make 1dc into each stitch until you reach level with the centre of the middle dark blue strip on the back of the cover. ch3, sk3, then work 1dc into each stitch for the remainder of the round. This will create a gap for your button.

Base the size of the gap you make on the size of your button. Make sure it can fit through the gap, but not too easily.

At the end of the round, slst into the top of the starting chain to join.

Row 3

ch3, then work 1dc into every stitch of the round. slst into the top of the ch3 to close.

Tab

You are going to make a tab five stitches wide, placed centrally in the middle of the front of your hot water bottle cover.

Row 1

Ch2, then make 1dc into the next four stitches.

Row 2 – 4

Turn. ch2, 1dc x 4.

When your tab is complete, take your button and sew it to the end of the tab, in a position that will join up to the gap you created earlier.

The Neck

Begin this section by sewing each side, along the top of the mini granny squares. Leave the central mini granny open, as this is where you are going to build up the neck.

To raise the neck level you are now going to work into each stitch around the circumference of the opening. My opening is 40 stitches around, which is slightly larger than the width of one granny square.

Start in your dark blue yarn

Row 1 – 2

ch3, then make 1dc into each stitch. At the end of the round, slst to the top of the chain to join.

cc to pale blue

Row 3

ch3, make 1dc into the same stitch, 2dc into the next stitch, then 1dc x 16, 2dc x 2, then 1dc x 16. At the end of the round, slst to the top of the chain to join.

Row 4

ch3, then make 1dc into each stitch. At the end of the round, slst to the top of the chain to join.

cc to dark blue

Row 5

ch3, then make 1dc into each stitch. At the end of the round, slst to the top of the chain to join.

Row 6

This final round is going to be made up of shell stitches.

Join your yarn with a slst, then *sk1 and make 7dc into the next stitch, sk1, then slst. Repeat for the length of the round. At the end of the round, tie off and leave a yarn tail.

What You’ll Need

• 6mm crochet hook
• Cotton macrame cord, 3mm wide. I used nearly three reels, cream, pale pink and dark pink. I recommend buying around 300m of cord, so three 100m reels.
• Scissors

The Stitches

• ch – chain
• dc – double crochet
• 2dc – make two double crochets into the same stitch
• cc – color change

Repeat from * until the end of the round, where you will slst into the top of the starting ch3.

Round 5

ch4, *(3dc, ch3, 3dc) ch1, 3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1. Repeat from * until the end of the round, then make 2dc into the final space and slst into the third chain of the starting chain.

cc to dark pink

Round Crochet Coaster

To make these coasters I used a 50% cotton yarn in DK weight and a 4mm crochet hook.

Round 1

ch4, then slst into the first chain to make a loop

ch2 as the first dc, then dc x 11 into the central loop. slst into the top of the ch2

Round 2

ch3 (as the first dc and 1ch) then make 1dc and 1ch into each stitch of the circle. At the end, slst into the second chain of the starting chain.

Round 3

ch2, *make 2dc into the next chain gap, then 1dc into the top of the next stitch. Repeat from * until the end of the round, then slst to the top of the initial chain 2 to join

Round 4

ch2, 1dc x 2, ch1, *1dc x 3, ch1. Repeat from * until the end of the round, then slst into the top of the ch2 to join.

Round 5

ch2, 1dc x 2, 2dc into chain gap, then *1dc x 3, then 2dc into chain gap. Repeat from * until the end of the round, then slst to join into the top of the ch2.

Vintage Style Crochet Coasters

I recommend using a heavier yarn weight for this style. I used the high cotton Lily Sugar N Cream yarn, in a neutral shade, worked with a 5mm crochet hook.

Round 1

ch4, then slst into the first chain to make a loop

ch2 as the first dc, then dc x 11 into the central loop. slst into the top of the ch2

Round 2

ch2 (as the first dc), 2dc x 11, then 1dc into the base of the ch2 stitch. Close by slst to the top of the ch2

Round 3

ch2, *1dc x 2, ch2. *1dc x 3, ch2. Repeat from * until the end of the round, then slst into the top of the ch2.

Round 4

ch1, sc, sk, * make 7dc into the chain gap, sk, sc into center stitch of the cluster of three dc. Repeat until the end of the round, then slst into the initial sc to close.

Easy Crochet Coaster Pattern

This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral, using standard increases from a magic circle. If you’ve ever made amigurumi this is a style of crocheting that will be very familiar, and if you haven’t it’s actually a great, quick way to get a feel for whether you want to commit time to this manner of stitching. Personally, I love the repetition and pattern. Just remember, when working in a continuous spiral stitch markers are essential.

The example you see here was made in a cotton blend DK cream yarn using a 4mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 4

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 5

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 8 (40)

Round 6

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 8 (48)

Round 7

(1sc x 5, 2sc) x 8 (56)

Round 8

(1sc x 6, 2sc) x 8 (64)

Round 9

(1sc x 7, 2sc) x 8 (72)

Round 10

1sc x 72

slst and tie off, then sew the loose ends into the coaster

Rustic Coaster

I used a fairly harsh textured blended fiber yarn for these crochet coasters. I love how the different colors of the yarn really add to the more rustic look. I worked this coaster in defined rounds, which means you won’t need to use a stitch marker and also gives it a more neat rounded finish.

Round 1

ch4, slst to join

Round 2

ch2, make 11dc into the chain circle. slst into the top of ch2 to join (12)

Round 3

ch2, make 1dc into the same stitch, then make 2dc x 11 (24)

Round 4

ch4 (as the first dc and ch2), *1dc, ch2, sk. Repeat from * until the end of the round. Then slst into the second starting chain.

Round 5

ch2, *3dc into the chain gap, 1dc into the next stitch. Repeat from * until the final chain gap, then make 3dc into that gap and slst into the top of the starting chain.

Round 6

ch2, *1sc x 12, 2sc. Repeat from * until the end of the round, the slst into the top of chain. Tie off, and hide the yarn tails within the coaster.

What You’ll Need

• Elastic hair tie (or a piece of elastic approximately 7 inches long)
• 25g aran weight yarn
• 4mm crochet hook
• scissors
• yarn needle

I find that scrunchies look best when crocheted in aran or chunky weight yarn. I’ve included a few different fiber examples in the photos you’ll find with this pattern, ranging from a wool blend to acrylic and cotton blend yarns. My absolute favorites for these crochet projects is the cotton blend. I think they have the nicest finish, and a slightly firmer texture which gives them a really nice shape when worn.

The other benefit of working with cotton is that your scrunchies will be more likely to cope with long term use and washing as well.

I’m not a big fan of working with plush yarn, so if you make up this pattern with it I’d love it if you could email me a picture of your finished scrunchie if you’re happy to share!

The Stitches

• slst – slip stitch
• sc – single crochet
• dc – double crochet

My Crochet Scrunchie Pattern

If you don’t have a spare hair tie, then a piece of elastic will work just as well. Cut the elastic to be approximately 7 inches long, then tie the two ends together securely. You don’t need to cut the ends of the elastic short, because you’ll be able to hide them inside your first round of stitches. Leaving these long tail ends will make the elastic less likely to come undone over time too.

Round 1

Take your hair tie, and the end of your yarn. Make a loop in the yarn, and put the hook through the center of the hair tie, pick up the yarn, and slip stitch the yarn to the hair tie.

Work around the hair tie, making single crochets. Every ten stitches, push the stitches together so that you cannot see the hair tie between them. I won’t give you an exact number as it will depend upon the size of your hair tie, hook size and yarn weight.

Once you get the start of your stitches, slst into the top of the first stitch to close.

Round 2

ch2, then make 1dc into the same stitch. 2dc into each stitch around the hair tie. At the end of the round, slst into the top of your chain to close.

Round 3

ch2, then make 1dc into each stitch of the round. slst to close, then using your yarn needle weave the tail of the yarn into the scrunchie to hide it.

Crochet Bracelet Pattern

I started by making up the flowers. I used five for my bracelet, but if your wrist is wider or more narrow you might need to make one more or less.

The Flowers

Begin working in your yellow yarn.

Row 1

Make a magic circle of five stitches

cc to white yarn

Row 2

ch2, then make 2dc and slst into the next stitch.

*(ch2, 2dc, slst) into each of the remaining four stitches of the magic circle.

Tie off, sew in the white and one of the yellow yarn ends, snipping them off close to the back of the flower. Leave one long strand of yellow yarn out of the back of each flower for sewing in later.

The Bracelet Band

Make a starting chain that is a multiple of five stitches. It should reach neatly around your wrist with a couple of finger space. I made a chain of 45 stitches.

Now chain five stitches, then slst back into the tenth chain from the hook. Working along the remainder of the chain, slip stitch every five stitches, with a five stitch space.