accessories Archives - Lucy Kate Crochet

Crochet Hot Water Bottle Cover

Lucy Kate — Wed, 07 Jan 2026 10:56:49 +0000

I don’t know about you, but I love a hot water bottle. Not only do I frequently like to stick one behind my back when I’m sore from martial arts training, but there is just something so comforting about the warmth of them in the cold weather. And my kids love them too.

The downside of shop bought hot water bottles is that the covers can often be a texture that you don’t want next to your skin, or that just rapidly looks tired. Either way, once again, we’ve got a great excuse for a bit of crocheting.

My latest crochet hot water bottle cover design is made up of little granny squares, with a simple border and neck. I’m confident that any level of crocheting experience can have fun with this one, and make something that you are going to get a lot of use out of.

What You’ll Need

A hot water bottle
DK yarn – cream, pale blue and dark blue – 50g of each
3.5mm crochet hook
A button (mine has a 3cm diameter)
Steel yarn needle

The Stitches

ch – chain
dc – double crochet
slst – slip stitch
cc – color change

My Crochet Hot Water Bottle Cover Pattern

I crocheted my hot water bottle cover in a few separate parts, which I joined together and then bordered

12 Mini Granny Squares

You are going to begin by making twelve mini granny squares, which will form the front side of the hot water bottle.

Work in your cream yarn to start with.

Round 1

ch4, slst into the first loop of the chain

Ch3 (as the first double crochet), then make two further double crochets into the center of the chain loop. ch3, *3dc, ch3. Repeat from * two more times, then slst into the top of the ch3 to join. Tie off, leaving a long til for weaving in later.

cc to pale blue

Round 2

Start in a corner gap.

ch3 (as the first dc) then make 2dc, ch3, 3dc into the same corner. ch1 then (3dc, ch3, 3dc) into each corner, then ch1 and slst into the top of your starting ch3.

Tie off, leaving a long tail of yarn to sew in later.

cc to dark blue

Round 3

Start in a corner gap.

ch3 (as the first dc) then make 2dc, ch3, 3dc into the same corner. *ch1, then make 3dc into the middle gap, ch1 then (3dc, ch3, 3dc) into the next corner. Repeat from * until the end of the round, where you will slst into the top of the starting chain.

Joining

I used the sewing method to join my twelve granny squares together, in a shape that was four tall by three wide. You can hide your loose ends so far at this point too.

Working Around the Bottle

You’re now going to use granny rows to create the back panel. Start working from the top corner of your rectangle of granny squares, stitching along the longer side.

Begin working in the dark blue yarn.

Row 1

The entire row will be worked in granny rows as follows, working clusters into the gaps:

ch3, 1dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1, 2dc, *2dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1, 2dc. Repeat from * until the end of the row.

Row 2

ch4, *3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch2. Repeat from * twice, then 3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1, 3dc, then 1dc into final stitch of the round.

Row 3

ch3, 1dc, ch1, *3dc, ch1. Repeat from * ten time, then make 2dc into the end gap.

Row 4

ch4, *3dc, ch1. Repeat from * until the end of the row, then make 1dc into the final stitch

cc to pale blue

Row 5 – 8

Repeat rows 3 to 4

cc to cream

Row 9 – 12

Repeat rows 3 to 4

cc to dark blue

Row 13 – 16

Repeat rows 3 to 4

cc to pale blue

Row 17 – 20

Repeat rows 3 to 4

cc to cream

Row 21 – 24

Repeat rows 3 to 4

cc to dark blue

Row 25 – 28

Repeat rows 3 to 4

The Bottom Section

Work around the bottom edge of your cover.

Row 1

Begin by making a chain of three stitches, then make 1dc into each stitch, or two dc into each gap, around the base of the cover. At the end of the round slst into the top of the starting chain to join.

Row 2

ch3, then make 1dc into each stitch until you reach level with the centre of the middle dark blue strip on the back of the cover. ch3, sk3, then work 1dc into each stitch for the remainder of the round. This will create a gap for your button.

Base the size of the gap you make on the size of your button. Make sure it can fit through the gap, but not too easily.

At the end of the round, slst into the top of the starting chain to join.

Row 3

ch3, then work 1dc into every stitch of the round. slst into the top of the ch3 to close.

Tab

You are going to make a tab five stitches wide, placed centrally in the middle of the front of your hot water bottle cover.

Row 1

Ch2, then make 1dc into the next four stitches.

Row 2 – 4

Turn. ch2, 1dc x 4.

When your tab is complete, take your button and sew it to the end of the tab, in a position that will join up to the gap you created earlier.

The Neck

Begin this section by sewing each side, along the top of the mini granny squares. Leave the central mini granny open, as this is where you are going to build up the neck.

To raise the neck level you are now going to work into each stitch around the circumference of the opening. My opening is 40 stitches around, which is slightly larger than the width of one granny square.

Start in your dark blue yarn

Row 1 – 2

ch3, then make 1dc into each stitch. At the end of the round, slst to the top of the chain to join.

cc to pale blue

Row 3

ch3, make 1dc into the same stitch, 2dc into the next stitch, then 1dc x 16, 2dc x 2, then 1dc x 16. At the end of the round, slst to the top of the chain to join.

Row 4

ch3, then make 1dc into each stitch. At the end of the round, slst to the top of the chain to join.

cc to dark blue

Row 5

ch3, then make 1dc into each stitch. At the end of the round, slst to the top of the chain to join.

Row 6

This final round is going to be made up of shell stitches.

Join your yarn with a slst, then *sk1 and make 7dc into the next stitch, sk1, then slst. Repeat for the length of the round. At the end of the round, tie off and leave a yarn tail.

Sewing In Ends

If you haven’t weaved as you went along, now turn your crochet hot water bottle cover inside out and use a yarn needle to hide the loose ends. Remember to make sure you don’t cut the ends too short, just in case you need to repair it later on as this will hopefully get a fair amount of use.

The post Crochet Hot Water Bottle Cover appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Crochet Cat Hammock

Lucy Kate — Mon, 05 Jan 2026 14:12:15 +0000

What’s better than crochet? Crocheting your new kittens an adorable new hammock, of course!

A few weeks ago Tango and Arlo joined our home, and very quickly got their paws into every part of our lives. They are utterly adorable, friendly, confident, and, let’s face it, incredibly lively too.

So when making a hammock for them, one of my main priorities was to make sure it was going to be safe. It needed to not fall apart in the first five minutes when subjected to their sharp teeth and claws.

It’s been up and in use for a few days now, so I’m confident that if you follow the pattern and materials that I used that yours should hold up to cat levels of enthusiasm too!

What You’ll Need

6mm crochet hook
Cotton macrame cord, 3mm wide. I used nearly three reels, cream, pale pink and dark pink. I recommend buying around 300m of cord, so three 100m reels.
Scissors

The Stitches

ch – chain
dc – double crochet
2dc – make two double crochets into the same stitch
cc – color change

Before You Begin

Decide where you want to hang your cat’s hammock, as this will effect how big you are going to make your central granny square.

It’s important to use a chair that is sturdy, and not likely to fall when your cats enthusiastically play around in their fabulous new hammock.

This pattern is worked initially as a large granny square. The size of square you make should be approximately the same width as the seat of the chair you’re going to attach it beneath.

Crochet Cat Hammock Pattern

Begin working in your white macrame cord.

Round 1

ch6, then slst into the first chain to join as a loop

Round 2

ch3, 2dc, then (ch3, 3dc) x 3, ch3, then slst into the top of the starting ch3

Round 3

ch4, *working into the corner gap (3dc, ch3, 3dc) then ch1. Repeat from *, until the final corner where you will make 3dc, ch3, 2dc, then slst into the third loop of the starting chain 4.

Tie off and leave a tail of cord, which you will work into your next round to hide or weave in later.

cc to pale pink

Round 4

Start in a corner, (ch3 (as the first dc), 2dc, ch3, 3dc). ch1, 3dc into the central gap, ch1. Then *(3dc, ch3, 3dc) into the next corner, then ch1.

Repeat from * until the end of the round, where you will slst into the top of the starting ch3.

Round 5

ch4, *(3dc, ch3, 3dc) ch1, 3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1. Repeat from * until the end of the round, then make 2dc into the final space and slst into the third chain of the starting chain.

cc to dark pink

Continuing your hammock to the correct size

Follow this pattern of increasing the size of your granny square, until you have a square that is roughly the same diameter as your chosen chair.

Now you’re going to build up the edges of the square a little, before creating the attachment points.

The Border

Working around the edge of the granny square, make 1dc into each stitch, and 2dc into each gap. Into the corners make 3dc.

The final round will be simply making 1dc into each of the stitches created in the initial border round.

The Attachments

I’ve attached my cat hammock using eight chains. Into each corner of the hammock, create two chains of 25 stitches.

Firmly tie each end of the chair, attaching one end to the square, and the other ends are going to be used to tie it to the chair you’ve chosen.

If your kitties are as lively as mine, then I recommend checking your attachment points and knots once a day to ensure they are holding up to their busy use.

The hammock pictured has been up for a few days now, and I’m pleased to confirm that it’s doing really well and not showing any signs of the already heavy use they’ve given it!

The post Crochet Cat Hammock appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Crochet Coasters – 4 Different Styles

Lucy Kate — Thu, 18 Dec 2025 13:55:44 +0000

I have had so much fun making crochet coasters this week. It’s nearly Christmas and I wanted some extra gifts that were quick to make up (because I might have left this until the last minute…) but looked really lovely.

I think my favorites turned out to be the vintage style coasters with shell stitch style edging, but I’d love to hear which ones you like the most.

Edited Note – I’ve now made some crochet table mats to match these!

The Stitches

magic circle
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
1sc – make one single crochet into the next stitch (example: 1sc x 4 – make one sc into the next four stitches)
2sc – make two single crochets into the next stitch.
dc – double crochet
slst – slip stitch

Stitch Notes

You will see in this pattern that where a chain begins a round to represent a double crochet, I am instructing you to chain 2 instead of the conventional 3. This is a personal preference that I always do to adjust patterns as I believe with my tension it actually looks neater. If you are happy with your starting chain lengths then just ch3 instead of ch2 where I make that note, but it could be interesting to see if you find that it also looks a bit tidier when it’s done this way too!

Round Crochet Coaster

To make these coasters I used a 50% cotton yarn in DK weight and a 4mm crochet hook.

Round 1

ch4, then slst into the first chain to make a loop

ch2 as the first dc, then dc x 11 into the central loop. slst into the top of the ch2

Round 2

ch3 (as the first dc and 1ch) then make 1dc and 1ch into each stitch of the circle. At the end, slst into the second chain of the starting chain.

Round 3

ch2, *make 2dc into the next chain gap, then 1dc into the top of the next stitch. Repeat from * until the end of the round, then slst to the top of the initial chain 2 to join

Round 4

ch2, 1dc x 2, ch1, *1dc x 3, ch1. Repeat from * until the end of the round, then slst into the top of the ch2 to join.

Round 5

ch2, 1dc x 2, 2dc into chain gap, then *1dc x 3, then 2dc into chain gap. Repeat from * until the end of the round, then slst to join into the top of the ch2.

Vintage Style Crochet Coasters

I recommend using a heavier yarn weight for this style. I used the high cotton Lily Sugar N Cream yarn, in a neutral shade, worked with a 5mm crochet hook.

Round 1

ch4, then slst into the first chain to make a loop

ch2 as the first dc, then dc x 11 into the central loop. slst into the top of the ch2

Round 2

ch2 (as the first dc), 2dc x 11, then 1dc into the base of the ch2 stitch. Close by slst to the top of the ch2

Round 3

ch2, *1dc x 2, ch2. *1dc x 3, ch2. Repeat from * until the end of the round, then slst into the top of the ch2.

Round 4

ch1, sc, sk, * make 7dc into the chain gap, sk, sc into center stitch of the cluster of three dc. Repeat until the end of the round, then slst into the initial sc to close.

Easy Crochet Coaster Pattern

This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral, using standard increases from a magic circle. If you’ve ever made amigurumi this is a style of crocheting that will be very familiar, and if you haven’t it’s actually a great, quick way to get a feel for whether you want to commit time to this manner of stitching. Personally, I love the repetition and pattern. Just remember, when working in a continuous spiral stitch markers are essential.

The example you see here was made in a cotton blend DK cream yarn using a 4mm crochet hook.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 4

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 5

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 8 (40)

Round 6

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 8 (48)

Round 7

(1sc x 5, 2sc) x 8 (56)

Round 8

(1sc x 6, 2sc) x 8 (64)

Round 9

(1sc x 7, 2sc) x 8 (72)

Round 10

1sc x 72

slst and tie off, then sew the loose ends into the coaster

Rustic Coaster

I used a fairly harsh textured blended fiber yarn for these crochet coasters. I love how the different colors of the yarn really add to the more rustic look. I worked this coaster in defined rounds, which means you won’t need to use a stitch marker and also gives it a more neat rounded finish.

Round 1

ch4, slst to join

Round 2

ch2, make 11dc into the chain circle. slst into the top of ch2 to join (12)

Round 3

ch2, make 1dc into the same stitch, then make 2dc x 11 (24)

Round 4

ch4 (as the first dc and ch2), *1dc, ch2, sk. Repeat from * until the end of the round. Then slst into the second starting chain.

Round 5

ch2, *3dc into the chain gap, 1dc into the next stitch. Repeat from * until the final chain gap, then make 3dc into that gap and slst into the top of the starting chain.

Round 6

ch2, *1sc x 12, 2sc. Repeat from * until the end of the round, the slst into the top of chain. Tie off, and hide the yarn tails within the coaster.

The post Crochet Coasters – 4 Different Styles appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

How To Crochet Scrunchies

Lucy Kate — Fri, 12 Dec 2025 12:52:52 +0000

Crochet scrunchies are one of the most satisfying quick crochet projects that I work on. They are fast to hook up, easy make and it’s really easy to get a lot of variety. With the added bonus that it’s really easy to subtly show off your awesome work when you wear them.

I predominantly make crochet scrunchies for my daughter, but they also make really nice little gifts for friends and stocking fillers too. Although you might not get to take credit for those!

What You’ll Need

Elastic hair tie (or a piece of elastic approximately 7 inches long)
25g aran weight yarn
4mm crochet hook
scissors
yarn needle

I find that scrunchies look best when crocheted in aran or chunky weight yarn. I’ve included a few different fiber examples in the photos you’ll find with this pattern, ranging from a wool blend to acrylic and cotton blend yarns. My absolute favorites for these crochet projects is the cotton blend. I think they have the nicest finish, and a slightly firmer texture which gives them a really nice shape when worn.

The other benefit of working with cotton is that your scrunchies will be more likely to cope with long term use and washing as well.

I’m not a big fan of working with plush yarn, so if you make up this pattern with it I’d love it if you could email me a picture of your finished scrunchie if you’re happy to share!

The Stitches

slst – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet

My Crochet Scrunchie Pattern

If you don’t have a spare hair tie, then a piece of elastic will work just as well. Cut the elastic to be approximately 7 inches long, then tie the two ends together securely. You don’t need to cut the ends of the elastic short, because you’ll be able to hide them inside your first round of stitches. Leaving these long tail ends will make the elastic less likely to come undone over time too.

Round 1

Take your hair tie, and the end of your yarn. Make a loop in the yarn, and put the hook through the center of the hair tie, pick up the yarn, and slip stitch the yarn to the hair tie.

Work around the hair tie, making single crochets. Every ten stitches, push the stitches together so that you cannot see the hair tie between them. I won’t give you an exact number as it will depend upon the size of your hair tie, hook size and yarn weight.

Once you get the start of your stitches, slst into the top of the first stitch to close.

Round 2

ch2, then make 1dc into the same stitch. 2dc into each stitch around the hair tie. At the end of the round, slst into the top of your chain to close.

Round 3

ch2, then make 1dc into each stitch of the round. slst to close, then using your yarn needle weave the tail of the yarn into the scrunchie to hide it.

Creating New Scrunchies

The principle of this design is simple, and you can adapt it to work in other stitches. Here’s an example of one I made using an almost identical pattern but incorporating puff stitches.

What I did was instead of 2dc into each stitch in round two, I made 1dc and 1puff stitch into each stitch for that round.

The rest of the pattern is exactly the same, and you can do this with a variety of different stitches to get scrunchies that have a really different finish.

The post How To Crochet Scrunchies appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Daisy Crochet Bracelet

Lucy Kate — Tue, 09 Dec 2025 14:02:26 +0000

I really wanted to make something a little different this morning, and I’ve had so much fun making flower bookmarks recently that I decided that was definitely a crochet project that had huge appeal. And i’m so glad I went for it, and excited to share this simple crochet bracelet pattern with you today.

What I Used

20g yellow dk yarn
20g green dk yarn
20g white dk yarn
3mm crochet hook
scissors
yarn needle

The Stitches

magic circle
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
slst – slip stitch
cc – color change

Crochet Bracelet Pattern

I started by making up the flowers. I used five for my bracelet, but if your wrist is wider or more narrow you might need to make one more or less.

The Flowers

Begin working in your yellow yarn.

Row 1

Make a magic circle of five stitches

cc to white yarn

Row 2

ch2, then make 2dc and slst into the next stitch.

*(ch2, 2dc, slst) into each of the remaining four stitches of the magic circle.

Tie off, sew in the white and one of the yellow yarn ends, snipping them off close to the back of the flower. Leave one long strand of yellow yarn out of the back of each flower for sewing in later.

The Bracelet Band

Make a starting chain that is a multiple of five stitches. It should reach neatly around your wrist with a couple of finger space. I made a chain of 45 stitches.

Now chain five stitches, then slst back into the tenth chain from the hook. Working along the remainder of the chain, slip stitch every five stitches, with a five stitch space.

Attaching The Flowers

Lay out the bracelet in front of you, and place the flowers at alternate joining points. Use your yarn needle to sew each flower on, working in and out of the bracelet band and the center of the flower. Tie off and cut the ends short.

The final flower will provide the attachment for the bracelet, and the loop from the other end will secure it closed.

The post Daisy Crochet Bracelet appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Crochet Headbands – Waffle Stitch Patterns

Lucy Kate — Tue, 04 Nov 2025 11:43:35 +0000

I have had so much fun making crochet headbands over the past week, and I’m so happy to share the patterns with you today! I have created these patterns using the classic waffle stitches, which combine double crochets and front post double crochets to make a thick, warm, beautifully textured stitch.

The finished headband is approximately 18 inches in diameter, but this will vary based on the fiber and weight of yarn you use, crochet hook size and your personal tension.

The Stitches

ch – chain
sk – skip
slst – slip stitch
dc – double crochet
fpdc – front post double crochet

Equipment

To make my headbands I used a range of different yarn fibers and weights. I recommend you pick one that works up with a 4mm crochet hook, and is either Worsted or Aran weight for you to finish with a headband a similar length to mine.

Remember if you want a different size you can make a shorter or longer starting chain, just make sure it’s a multiple of 3 + 1 for the pattern to work up neatly.

Version 1 – Narrow Crochet Headband Pattern

Row 1

Make a chain of 113 stitches

Row 2

sk 2, dc x 111

Turn

Row 3

ch2, 1dc into the next stitch.

*1fpdc, 1dc x 2. Repeat from * until two stitches from the end of the row. Finish the row by making 1fpdc in the second to last stitch then 1dc in the final stitch.

Turn.

Row 4

ch2 *1dc, 1fpdc x 2. Repeat from * until two stitches from the end of the row. Finish on 1dc x 2.

Turn

Row 5 – 8

Repeat Row 3 – Row 4, alternately.

Closing the Headband

To close my headbands, I fold them in half and line up the two shorter edges. I think slip stitch the two sides together, working across the end. Then I use a yarn needle to sew the tail end of the yarn back into the headband to hide it.

Version 2 – Wide Crochet Headband Pattern

For my second headband I decided that I wanted it to be a little wider. To achieve this finish, add four more rows, so instead of repeating row 3 and 4 to row 8, you are going to continue until you hit row 12.

Variation 3 – Adding A Border

Finally, one of the headbands I finished with a small border, and I’ve got to be honest I think it’s one of my favorites.

Follow the same instructions as for the larger version above, and then instead of cutting off at the end of row 12, chain one and then work around the edge of the headband, making one single crochet into each stitch.

The post Crochet Headbands – Waffle Stitch Patterns appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Cute Crochet Bunting – A Free Pattern

Lucy Kate — Fri, 27 Jun 2025 08:52:16 +0000

I love using crochet bunting to add some color to my kid’s bedrooms, but it is also a really fun way to decorate at parties. This crochet bunting pattern is simple to follow, and relatively quick to work out for what comes out as a fairly big display piece. A great project that really shows off your skills!

What You’ll Need

100g pink chunky yarn
100g blue chunky yarn
100g yellow worsted weight yarn
6mm crochet hook
Scissors
Thick yarn needle
Stitch markers

Stitches and Techniques

ch – chain
dc – double crochet
2dc – make two double crochets into the same stitch
sc – single crochet
turn – flip over your crochet project and work into the other side
sk – skip
slst – slip stitch

Crochet Bunting Pattern

You’ll need to make the starting chain to substitute the double crochet using a chain 2 instead of a chain three. This is a personal preference as on this type of project I do think it looks neater, due to my personal tension. Feel free to try both and see which works best for you!

The Flags

Make 5 flags in the pink yarn and 5 in the blue.

Row 1

ch3, 2dc into the first stitch, then turn.

Row 2

ch2, dc into the same st, 1dc, 2dc, turn.

Row 3

ch2, dc into the same st, 1dc x 3, 2dc, turn.

Row 4

ch2, dc into the same st, 1dc x 5, 2dc, turn.

Row 5

ch2, dc into the same st, 1dc x 7, 2dc, turn.

Row 6

ch2, dc into the same st, 1dc x 9, 2dc, turn.

Row 7

ch2, dc into the same st, 1dc x 11, 2dc, turn.

Row 8

ch2, dc into the same st, 1dc x 13, 2dc, turn.

Row 9

ch2, dc into the same st, 1dc x 15, 2dc, turn.

Row 10

ch2, dc into the same st, 1dc x 17, 2dc, turn. Cut off a long yarn tail and secure.

Finishing off the flags

Take your flags and sew the long yarn tail back into the body using your yarn needle.

Now block the flags over night to give them the best chance of a good structure.

The String

Use your yellow yarn to create the string attachment.

Make a chain of 500 + 1 stitches, noting your count every 100 stitches with a marker

Skipping the first stitch, work the following into the chain:

1sc x 35, slst to join the chain to each consecutive stitch at the long end of the first flag of 20 stitches. Continue working down the chain, making 1sc x 25 between each flag, then joining the flag to the chain

The post Cute Crochet Bunting – A Free Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Crochet Granny Square Slipper Pattern

Sarah Holloway — Mon, 18 Nov 2024 14:24:31 +0000

How cute is this crochet granny square slipper pattern?! They’re constructed from just six squares each, so they’re perfect for when you fancy making a granny square project, but you haven’t got the time or the will to embark on something big like a blanket.

They’ve got a cosy homespun feel which really does feel like a warm hug for your toes, so they’re a fantastic gift too – for someone you love or just for you

You can also change up the style by using a different more textured granny square for the top of the foot section, like the snowflake or 3D flower designs.

Getting the right size

Since these slippers have a soft sole, they’re a bit like socks when it comes to sizing. In other words, one size will fit several sizes of feet. If you follow this pattern exactly, the slippers will fit roughly ladies’ shoes size 6 – 9 (UK 4 – 7, EU 37 – 40). To make slippers outside of that size range, you’ll need to adapt the size of your granny squares. Don’t let that put you off though, it’s pretty straight forward to do, and I’m going to walk you through it step-by-step.

Basically, the diagonal size of your granny squares needs to be half the circumference of your foot at the widest point. Here’s a worked example of how to measure you feet and calculate the right granny square size for a perfect pair of custom made-to-measure slippers:

Measure the circumference around the ball of your foot, right above the toes. My feet measure 9” (23cm) around this point.
Divide that number in half. Which gives me 4½” (11.5cm). This is how big your granny squares need to be from corner to corner.

It’s not all that intuitive to think about granny squares in terms of their diagonal size, so here’s a handy dandy online calculator for finding out how long the sides will need to be. From it I found out that the sides of my granny squares need to be approximately 3¼” (8.5cm).

My granny square pattern

Here’s the pattern I came up with to make granny squares the right size for my slippers. You can make small adjustments to the size of this pattern by making the 4th round in single crochet (for a smaller square) or double crochet (for a larger square). Or you can come up with your own design for a granny square the right size, and meet me again at the assembly stage!

Remember, you’ll need 12 squares in total – 6 per slipper. I used aran weight yarns in pink, off-white, gray marl, and brown. Rather than using the size H-8 (5mm) hook suggested by the wrapper, I opted for a size G-6 (4.5mm) hook. Your slippers will hold their shape better if the tension is sturdy – since I tend to crochet on the loose side I’ve sized down to

Round 1

Start however you like to start your granny squares – with a magic circle, or with four chain stitches joined in a loop with a slip stitch.

Ch 3, dc 7, sl st into top of ch 3 to join.

Cut your yarn and weave in the ends.

Round 2

Join your next yarn color. This round consists of 8 cluster stitches of four double crochets, and the first one is worked a little bit differently to the rest.

For the first stitch:

Ch 3 – this creates the height you need to complete the round, and also counts as the first double crochet in the cluster.
Yarn over hook.
Insert hook into the same space you made the slip stitch join into.
Yarn over and pull through a loop (3 loops on hook).
Yarn over and draw through two loops (2 loops on hook).
Repeat steps 2 – 5 twice more (4 loops on hook – below left).
Yarn over and draw through all four loops (below center).
Ch 2 (below right).

For the rest of the stitches:

Yarn over hook.
Insert hook into the next space from round 1.
Yarn over and pull through a loop (3 loops on hook).
Yarn over and draw through two loops (2 loops on hook).
Repeat steps 1 – 4 three times (5 loops on hook – below left).
Yarn over and draw through all five loops (below center).
Chain 2 (below right).

After the last cluster stitch, chain 2 and join to the top of the first cluster stitch with a slip stitch. NOTE: The top of the stitch is the first chain you made to close the cluster, not the top of the ch 3. Cut the yarn, and weave in the ends.

Round 3

Join your next color of yarn into any of the chain spaces between the cluster stitches from round 2.

Into the same chain space, ch 5 (counts as 1 double crochet and 2 corner chains), dc 3.
Dc 3 into the next chain space.
(Dc 3, ch 2, dc 3) into the next chain space.
Repeat steps 2 and 3 twice more.
Dc 3 into the next chain space.
Dc into the same space you started in, and join with a slip stitch into the 4th chain from step 1.

Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.

Round 4

Join your fourth yarn shade into any of the corner spaces from round 3.

Into the same chain space, ch 4 (counts as 1 half-double crochet and 2 corner chains), hdc 2.
Skip the first stitch on the next side*, and hdc into all the remaining stitches.
(Hdc 2, ch 2, hdc 2) into the corner space.
Repeat steps 2 and 3 twice more.
Skip the first stitch on the next side*, and hdc into all the remaining stitches.
Hdc once into the corner space where you started, and join the round with a slip stitch into the 3rd chain from step 1.

* Only if you’re using half-double crochet for this round. If you’re using single or double crochet to modify the size of your square, work into every stitch of each side.

Cut your yarn, weave in the ends, and block your square. Make 11 more squares.

Crochet granny square slipper pattern: assembling stage

Squares made, it’s time to think about how you’re going to join them together. Here’s an illustration of how the squares are going to be pieced together:

I’ve labeled the corresponding sides, so 1a joins to 1a, and so on. Joins 1a and 1b can be made one after the other with without cutting the yarn in between. Joins 2a – 2d can also be made in one go, and likewise joins 3a – 3d.

Let’s start with the first join, along seams 1a and 1b.

I joined my granny squares mine using single crochet stitches – hold the squares right sides together, and insert the hook through the front and back loops of both squares. It’s a chunky join, which I love because it makes an aesthetic nod to moccasins. But I can feel the seams under my feet a bit, an if the thought of that puts you off, you could join your squares with a flat mattress stitch or whip stitch instead.

Adding the back of the heel

The next step is adding the back of the heel. Here’s a map for joining that square:

When you get to corner A, place two stitches in the corner space of the heel square – one for each of the other squares.
When you get to corner B, use three stitches to join the corner spaces, like this:

The final edge between corner B and the arrow head joins to the edge marked by the star – make sure the wrong sides of your squares are facing each other!
Treat corner B the same as corner A – make two stitches in the corner space of the heel square, one for each of the other squares.

Adding the last square

The sixth square sits on top of the foot.

If you fold in the side squares now, you can see now how that top square is going to join along all four edges.

Start at the top corner that’s going to sit above the arch of the foot, and work along the first edge (I prefer to move clockwise, but it’s not important).
In the next corner space make two stitches – one into the square that folds around the the side of the foot, and one into the square at the front of the sole.
In the corner which forms the toe point, make three stitches into the corner space.
And in the last corner space make two stitches – one into the square at the front of the sole and one into the square that folds around the the side of the foot.

When you get back to the corner you started in, don’t cut the yarn – you can dive straight into making the edging around the opening with it.

Adding a picot edging

This slipper is really starting to come together! Let’s add a picot edging around the opening, to give that edge a more polished look and tie it in with the seams. The edge is made in two rows, in a counter-clockwise direction. The direction is important to ensure to the little picot bobbles pop outwards, not inwards!

The first row is straight forward single crochet all the way round the edge.
The second row is a simple picot border based on a two-stitch repeat: sl st, dc. The short slip stitches push the tall double crochets outwards, making an attractive bobble edge.

Finish row two on a slip stitch, cut the yarn, and weave in all the ends from joining your squares.

Pompoms

The finishing touch on my slippers are some cute little pompoms. Not only do they look the part, they’re perfect for hiding the seam joins on the front of your slipper. Also if you’ve never made little pompoms on a fork before, prepare to discover a new crafting addiction!

Cut a 4” piece of yarn and hold it between the second and third tines of a fork (top left above).
Wrap yarn from the ball 20 – 30 times around all four tines.
Cut the yarn, and use the 4” piece to make an overhand knot around the center of your pom pom (top right above).
Poke the ends through to the other side of the fork, and tie two or three more knots to fully secure the center of the pompom (bottom left above).
Slip the pompom off the fork and carefully cut all the loops so your pompom opens out. Trim it into shape, and repeat the steps to make a second.
Make a chain of 12 stitches, and ties your pompoms to the ends (bottom right above).

Finally, use a short length of yarn to tie your pompoms to the front of your slipper.

Now make another one!

Repeat the whole process to make a second slipper, and then put them on and wear them with pride! Or in my case, notice them sneaking out of the room on the feet of my daughter. Luckily this quick and fun pattern is easy to make again and again! I hope you enjoy making it too.

The post Crochet Granny Square Slipper Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

5 Free Fingerless Gloves Crochet Patterns

Lucy Kate — Tue, 09 Jan 2024 12:11:00 +0000

I have five simple but stunning free fingerless gloves crochet patterns for you. You’ll work them up quickly, and produce gorgeous, cosy crochet hand warmers to keep your hands toasty in the cold weather.

Your crochet fingerless glove techniques.
Sizing your fingerless gloves.
Five free fingerless glove crochet patterns.

If you are a fairly confident crocheter, you will find that you can put together your crochet fingerless gloves within an hour. If you are new to crochet then it will take a little longer, but it should be a project that even someone totally fresh to the scene will be able to produce in the same day that they start it.

Stitches and Techniques

To follow the most basic crochet pattern for fingerless mitts, you will need to know how to make a chain, double crochet, increase and decrease.

To crochet an increase, just make an additional crochet into the same loop. In the pattern I will put ‘2dc’ instead of ‘dc’, to denote two double crochets instead of one double crochet.

Crocheting a decrease is a little more complicated than an increase. You will begin the stitch in the same way that you usually do, but before you make the final yarn over and through, you move into the next stitch.

Yarn over your hook.
Hook through the stitch.
Yarn over the hook and pull through the stitch.
Yarn over the hook again and pull through the first two loops.
Yarn over and insert your hook through the next stitch along.
Yarn over and pull through the stitch
Yarn over and pull through the first two loops
Yarn over and pull through all three remaining loops on the hook.

How to crochet a puff stitch

A puff stitch is a way of making your crochet raised and textured. It is quite literally, puffed out. You will need to hold out the yarn during the stitch, repeatedly yarning over to create this effect.

Sizing your fingerless gloves

My crochet fingerless glove patterns are designed for women’s adult sized hands, of a small to average width around the wrist.

If you have larger or smaller hands than the sizes suggested, wrap the initial chain around your knuckles before you begin. If the chain feels tight then add a couple of loops, if it’s loose undo a couple.

Just remember to adjust the count on the subsequent rows!

Basic Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern

The basic crochet fingerless gloves pattern produces short, chunky hand warmer style of fingerless gloves. They are a loose fit, easy to pop on and off and will fit most adult hand sizes, male and female. Great for wearing with your long sleeve tops.

For this crochet pattern you will need:

Size J / 6mm crochet hookPaid Link
50g DK yarn in a single color
Scissors
Yarn needlePaid Link

The bracketed number at the end of each row is a stitch count, to help you make sure you are on the right track as you go along.

Row 1

Chain (ch) 27 stitches, slip stitch (sl st) to join as a circle (27)

Row 2

*Ch2, then dc (US) into the 3rd stitch from the hook. Dc into the next 26 stitches. Sl st into the top of the initial chain to join. (27)

Row 3 to 5

Repeat from * (27)

You are now beginning to make your thumb hole. The next few rows will not continue in a circle, but will leave a large gap.

Row 6

Ch2, dc into the 3rd st from the hook. Dc once into the next 22 stitches. Ch2 from the final stitch. (23)
Turn over the glove

Row 7

dc into 3rd st from the hook. Dc once into next 22 stitches. (23)

Turn over the glove

Row 8

ch2, 2dc into next st, dc once into next 21 st, 2dc into final st of the row. Sl st to join. (25)

You have now made the thumb hole.

Row 9

ch2, 2 x dc2tog, dc once into 18 st, 2 x dc2tog, sl st. (23)

Row 10

ch2, 2 x dc2tog, dc once into next 12 st, then 2 x dc2tog, sl st (17)

At the end of the row cut off a long tail or yarn, and weave it back into the glove.

Simple Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern

These fingerless gloves are more tailored to the shape of your hand. Made to fit small to medium sized female hand and wrist diameters. The wool blend gives a very warm finish, although slightly rougher than some of the other materials.

The thick base stripe gives a defined finish to your glove, and completes the look.

You will need:

5mm crochet hook
Aran Blend Wool – Approx 50g main color +10g accent color for both hand warmers
Scissors
Yarn needlePaid Link

Row 1

Chain (ch) 26, slip stitch (sl st) to join as a circle. (26)

Row 2

*ch2, then double crochet (dc) US into the back loop only (blo) of the 3rd chain from the hook. dc once into the next 25 stitches. Sl st into the top of the initial chain to join (26)

Row 3 and 4

ch2, dc into both loops of the 3rd stitch from the hook. dc once into each subsequent stitch. Sl st to join at the end of the row. (26)

We will now be working on opening a thumb hole in your hand warmer.

Row 5

ch2, dc into both loops of the 3rd stitch from the hook. dc once into the next 24 stitches. Do not join. (25)

Row 6 and 7

turn your glove over. Ch2, dc into the 3rd stitch from the hook. Dc once into the next 24 stitches. (25)

Row 8

turn your glove over. Ch2, dc into the same stitch you made the chain from. Dc once into the next 23 stitches. 2dc into the last st in the row. Sl st to join. (27)

You have now created your thumb hole. We will now be working a reduction for the final part of your hand.

Row 9

ch2, dc the next 2 stitches together twice ( 2 x dc2tog). Dc once into the next 18 st. 2 x dc2tog. Dc into the base of the initial chain. Sl st to join. (24)

Row 10

ch2, 2 x dc2tog. Dc once into the next 14 st. 2 x dc2tog. Dc into the base of the chain. Sl st to join. (20)

Row 11

ch2, dc2tog. Dc once into the next 14 st. dc2tog. Sl st to join, beginning your color change (cc) in this join. (18)

We will now be adding a little bit of length to the hand warmer, and working with your accent color

Row 12

ch 2, using the ch as the 1st st, dc once into each st in the round. Sl st to join. (18)

Row 13

ch 2, using the ch as the 1st st, dc once into each st in the round. Sl st to join. (18)

Row 14

ch 2, using the ch as the 1st st, dc once into each st in the round. Sl st to join. (18)

Finally to finish off, sew the ends into the body of your hand warmer using a yarn needle. Make sure to leave a generous tail when you cut off.

Striped Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern

These crocheted fingerless gloves contain a repetitive striping pattern, which gives them a more sculpted look when finished. The pale and dark contrast is nice and eye catching, and they follow a little further down your arm to give extra warmth.

You will need:

5mm crochet hook
50g dk blue wool, 50g dk purple (I used Women’s Institute acrylic yarn)
Scissors
Yarn needlePaid Link

Begin with the blue yarn.

Row 1

ch25, sl st to join

Row 2

ch2, dc into the next 24 stitches, sl st

Row 3

ch2, dc 24, cc, sl st

Row 4

ch2, dc 24, cc, sl st

Row 5

ch2, dc 24, sl st

You are now beginning your thumb hole. Do not join the next few rows at their end.

Row 6

ch2, dc 23, cc.

Row 7

ch2, dc 23, cc.

Row 8

ch2, dc 23

Row 9

ch2, dc into the based of the same chain as an increase. Dc into the next 22, 2dc into the final stitch, cc, sl st to join

Row 10

ch2, 2x dc2tog, dc into the next 18 stitches, 2x dc2tog, cc, sl st

Row 11

ch2, 2x dc2tog, dc 15, 2x dc2tog, sl st

Row 12

ch2, dc 19, cc, sl st

Row 13

ch2, dc 19, cc, sl st

Row 14

ch2, dc 19, sl st

Row 15

ch2, dc 19, sl st

Finally to finish off, sew the ends into the body of your hand warmer, using a yarn needle. Keep it to other areas that were worked in your blue yarn, so that the sewing doesn’t show through the pattern.

Warm Cuffed Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern

This crochet fingerless gloves pattern is similar to the one above, with reversed colors and a different style to your cuff.

You will need:

5mm crochet hook
50g dk blue wool, 50g dk purple (I used Women’s Institute acrylic yarn)
Scissors
Yarn needlePaid Link

Begin with the purple yarn.

Row 1

ch25, sl st to join

Row 2

ch2, dc into the next 24 stitches, sl st

Row 3

ch2, dc 24, cc, sl st

Row 4

ch2, dc 24, cc, sl st

Row 5

ch2, dc 24, sl st

You are now beginning your thumb hole. Do not join the next few rows at their end.

Row 6

ch2, dc 23, cc.

Row 7

ch2, dc 23, cc.

Row 8

ch2, dc 23

Row 9

ch2, dc into the based of the same chain as an increase. Dc into the next 22, 2dc into the final stitch, cc, sl st to join

Row 10

ch2, 2x dc2tog, dc into the next 18 stitches, 2x dc2tog, cc, sl st

Row 11

ch2, 2x dc2tog, dc 15, 2x dc2tog, sl st

Row 12

ch2, dc 19, cc, sl st to join.

Section Two

You will now need to begin a separate piece, which we will incorporate as a cuff when completed.

Row 1

ch9, sl st

Row 2

ch2, dc into next 8 stitches.

Row 3

ch2, dc into next 8 stitches.

Remember to use the end of the previous chain as the final stitch or your rows will gradually decrease.

Row 4 to 15

ch2, dc into the next 8 stitches.

Row 16

join the cuff into a circle by dc-ing each stitch together

Row 13/16

Combining the cuff and glove. Dc on the inside of the cuff and glove around from row 12, once into each stitch and through the cuff’s edge.

Make sure you leave long tails when each part is complete, to securely sew it into the pattern.

Puff Stitch Cuffed Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern

The final pattern is my personal favorite. Wear these fingerless gloves with longer sleeves. They have a defined short puff stitch cuff. This thick stitch keeps this normally exposed area from catching a chill, as well as providing some definition and styling.

You will need:

5mm crochet hook
50g grey wool blend aran yarn (I used Patons)
50g pink dk yarn
Scissors
Yarn needlePaid Link

Row 1

chain 27, sl st

Row 2

ch2, dc into the next 26, color change, sl st

Row 3

ch2, dc 26, sl st

Row 4

ch2, dc 26, color change, sl st

Row 5

ch2, dc 26, sl st

Row 6

ch2, dc 26, cc.

Row 7

ch2, dc 26

Row 8

ch2, dc 26, cc.

Row 9

ch2 & dc, 25 dc, 2dc, sl st

Row 10

ch2, 2 x dc2tog, dc 20, 2 x dc2tog, cc, sl st

Row 11

ch2, 2 x dc2tog, dc 16, 2 x dc2tog

Row 12

ch2, 2 x dc2tog, dc 17, cc, sl st

We are now going to make the cuff using puff stitches

Row 13

ch2, puff stitch, ch 2, sl st into the next stitch, *ch2 from the sl st, puff stitch into the next st, ch2 from the puff stitch, sl st into the next st. Repeat from * until rows end.

The post 5 Free Fingerless Gloves Crochet Patterns appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.