accessory Archives - Lucy Kate Crochet

Crochet Granny Square Slipper Pattern

Sarah Holloway — Mon, 18 Nov 2024 14:24:31 +0000

How cute is this crochet granny square slipper pattern?! They’re constructed from just six squares each, so they’re perfect for when you fancy making a granny square project, but you haven’t got the time or the will to embark on something big like a blanket.

They’ve got a cosy homespun feel which really does feel like a warm hug for your toes, so they’re a fantastic gift too – for someone you love or just for you

You can also change up the style by using a different more textured granny square for the top of the foot section, like the snowflake or 3D flower designs.

Getting the right size

Since these slippers have a soft sole, they’re a bit like socks when it comes to sizing. In other words, one size will fit several sizes of feet. If you follow this pattern exactly, the slippers will fit roughly ladies’ shoes size 6 – 9 (UK 4 – 7, EU 37 – 40). To make slippers outside of that size range, you’ll need to adapt the size of your granny squares. Don’t let that put you off though, it’s pretty straight forward to do, and I’m going to walk you through it step-by-step.

Basically, the diagonal size of your granny squares needs to be half the circumference of your foot at the widest point. Here’s a worked example of how to measure you feet and calculate the right granny square size for a perfect pair of custom made-to-measure slippers:

Measure the circumference around the ball of your foot, right above the toes. My feet measure 9” (23cm) around this point.
Divide that number in half. Which gives me 4½” (11.5cm). This is how big your granny squares need to be from corner to corner.

It’s not all that intuitive to think about granny squares in terms of their diagonal size, so here’s a handy dandy online calculator for finding out how long the sides will need to be. From it I found out that the sides of my granny squares need to be approximately 3¼” (8.5cm).

My granny square pattern

Here’s the pattern I came up with to make granny squares the right size for my slippers. You can make small adjustments to the size of this pattern by making the 4th round in single crochet (for a smaller square) or double crochet (for a larger square). Or you can come up with your own design for a granny square the right size, and meet me again at the assembly stage!

Remember, you’ll need 12 squares in total – 6 per slipper. I used aran weight yarns in pink, off-white, gray marl, and brown. Rather than using the size H-8 (5mm) hook suggested by the wrapper, I opted for a size G-6 (4.5mm) hook. Your slippers will hold their shape better if the tension is sturdy – since I tend to crochet on the loose side I’ve sized down to

Round 1

Start however you like to start your granny squares – with a magic circle, or with four chain stitches joined in a loop with a slip stitch.

Ch 3, dc 7, sl st into top of ch 3 to join.

Cut your yarn and weave in the ends.

Round 2

Join your next yarn color. This round consists of 8 cluster stitches of four double crochets, and the first one is worked a little bit differently to the rest.

For the first stitch:

Ch 3 – this creates the height you need to complete the round, and also counts as the first double crochet in the cluster.
Yarn over hook.
Insert hook into the same space you made the slip stitch join into.
Yarn over and pull through a loop (3 loops on hook).
Yarn over and draw through two loops (2 loops on hook).
Repeat steps 2 – 5 twice more (4 loops on hook – below left).
Yarn over and draw through all four loops (below center).
Ch 2 (below right).

For the rest of the stitches:

Yarn over hook.
Insert hook into the next space from round 1.
Yarn over and pull through a loop (3 loops on hook).
Yarn over and draw through two loops (2 loops on hook).
Repeat steps 1 – 4 three times (5 loops on hook – below left).
Yarn over and draw through all five loops (below center).
Chain 2 (below right).

After the last cluster stitch, chain 2 and join to the top of the first cluster stitch with a slip stitch. NOTE: The top of the stitch is the first chain you made to close the cluster, not the top of the ch 3. Cut the yarn, and weave in the ends.

Round 3

Join your next color of yarn into any of the chain spaces between the cluster stitches from round 2.

Into the same chain space, ch 5 (counts as 1 double crochet and 2 corner chains), dc 3.
Dc 3 into the next chain space.
(Dc 3, ch 2, dc 3) into the next chain space.
Repeat steps 2 and 3 twice more.
Dc 3 into the next chain space.
Dc into the same space you started in, and join with a slip stitch into the 4th chain from step 1.

Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.

Round 4

Join your fourth yarn shade into any of the corner spaces from round 3.

Into the same chain space, ch 4 (counts as 1 half-double crochet and 2 corner chains), hdc 2.
Skip the first stitch on the next side*, and hdc into all the remaining stitches.
(Hdc 2, ch 2, hdc 2) into the corner space.
Repeat steps 2 and 3 twice more.
Skip the first stitch on the next side*, and hdc into all the remaining stitches.
Hdc once into the corner space where you started, and join the round with a slip stitch into the 3rd chain from step 1.

* Only if you’re using half-double crochet for this round. If you’re using single or double crochet to modify the size of your square, work into every stitch of each side.

Cut your yarn, weave in the ends, and block your square. Make 11 more squares.

Crochet granny square slipper pattern: assembling stage

Squares made, it’s time to think about how you’re going to join them together. Here’s an illustration of how the squares are going to be pieced together:

I’ve labeled the corresponding sides, so 1a joins to 1a, and so on. Joins 1a and 1b can be made one after the other with without cutting the yarn in between. Joins 2a – 2d can also be made in one go, and likewise joins 3a – 3d.

Let’s start with the first join, along seams 1a and 1b.

I joined my granny squares mine using single crochet stitches – hold the squares right sides together, and insert the hook through the front and back loops of both squares. It’s a chunky join, which I love because it makes an aesthetic nod to moccasins. But I can feel the seams under my feet a bit, an if the thought of that puts you off, you could join your squares with a flat mattress stitch or whip stitch instead.

Adding the back of the heel

The next step is adding the back of the heel. Here’s a map for joining that square:

When you get to corner A, place two stitches in the corner space of the heel square – one for each of the other squares.
When you get to corner B, use three stitches to join the corner spaces, like this:

The final edge between corner B and the arrow head joins to the edge marked by the star – make sure the wrong sides of your squares are facing each other!
Treat corner B the same as corner A – make two stitches in the corner space of the heel square, one for each of the other squares.

Adding the last square

The sixth square sits on top of the foot.

If you fold in the side squares now, you can see now how that top square is going to join along all four edges.

Start at the top corner that’s going to sit above the arch of the foot, and work along the first edge (I prefer to move clockwise, but it’s not important).
In the next corner space make two stitches – one into the square that folds around the the side of the foot, and one into the square at the front of the sole.
In the corner which forms the toe point, make three stitches into the corner space.
And in the last corner space make two stitches – one into the square at the front of the sole and one into the square that folds around the the side of the foot.

When you get back to the corner you started in, don’t cut the yarn – you can dive straight into making the edging around the opening with it.

Adding a picot edging

This slipper is really starting to come together! Let’s add a picot edging around the opening, to give that edge a more polished look and tie it in with the seams. The edge is made in two rows, in a counter-clockwise direction. The direction is important to ensure to the little picot bobbles pop outwards, not inwards!

The first row is straight forward single crochet all the way round the edge.
The second row is a simple picot border based on a two-stitch repeat: sl st, dc. The short slip stitches push the tall double crochets outwards, making an attractive bobble edge.

Finish row two on a slip stitch, cut the yarn, and weave in all the ends from joining your squares.

Pompoms

The finishing touch on my slippers are some cute little pompoms. Not only do they look the part, they’re perfect for hiding the seam joins on the front of your slipper. Also if you’ve never made little pompoms on a fork before, prepare to discover a new crafting addiction!

Cut a 4” piece of yarn and hold it between the second and third tines of a fork (top left above).
Wrap yarn from the ball 20 – 30 times around all four tines.
Cut the yarn, and use the 4” piece to make an overhand knot around the center of your pom pom (top right above).
Poke the ends through to the other side of the fork, and tie two or three more knots to fully secure the center of the pompom (bottom left above).
Slip the pompom off the fork and carefully cut all the loops so your pompom opens out. Trim it into shape, and repeat the steps to make a second.
Make a chain of 12 stitches, and ties your pompoms to the ends (bottom right above).

Finally, use a short length of yarn to tie your pompoms to the front of your slipper.

Now make another one!

Repeat the whole process to make a second slipper, and then put them on and wear them with pride! Or in my case, notice them sneaking out of the room on the feet of my daughter. Luckily this quick and fun pattern is easy to make again and again! I hope you enjoy making it too.

The post Crochet Granny Square Slipper Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

5 Free Fingerless Gloves Crochet Patterns

Lucy Kate — Tue, 09 Jan 2024 12:11:00 +0000

I have five simple but stunning free fingerless gloves crochet patterns for you. You’ll work them up quickly, and produce gorgeous, cosy crochet hand warmers to keep your hands toasty in the cold weather.

Your crochet fingerless glove techniques.
Sizing your fingerless gloves.
Five free fingerless glove crochet patterns.

If you are a fairly confident crocheter, you will find that you can put together your crochet fingerless gloves within an hour. If you are new to crochet then it will take a little longer, but it should be a project that even someone totally fresh to the scene will be able to produce in the same day that they start it.

Stitches and Techniques

To follow the most basic crochet pattern for fingerless mitts, you will need to know how to make a chain, double crochet, increase and decrease.

To crochet an increase, just make an additional crochet into the same loop. In the pattern I will put ‘2dc’ instead of ‘dc’, to denote two double crochets instead of one double crochet.

Crocheting a decrease is a little more complicated than an increase. You will begin the stitch in the same way that you usually do, but before you make the final yarn over and through, you move into the next stitch.

Yarn over your hook.
Hook through the stitch.
Yarn over the hook and pull through the stitch.
Yarn over the hook again and pull through the first two loops.
Yarn over and insert your hook through the next stitch along.
Yarn over and pull through the stitch
Yarn over and pull through the first two loops
Yarn over and pull through all three remaining loops on the hook.

How to crochet a puff stitch

A puff stitch is a way of making your crochet raised and textured. It is quite literally, puffed out. You will need to hold out the yarn during the stitch, repeatedly yarning over to create this effect.

Sizing your fingerless gloves

My crochet fingerless glove patterns are designed for women’s adult sized hands, of a small to average width around the wrist.

If you have larger or smaller hands than the sizes suggested, wrap the initial chain around your knuckles before you begin. If the chain feels tight then add a couple of loops, if it’s loose undo a couple.

Just remember to adjust the count on the subsequent rows!

Basic Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern

The basic crochet fingerless gloves pattern produces short, chunky hand warmer style of fingerless gloves. They are a loose fit, easy to pop on and off and will fit most adult hand sizes, male and female. Great for wearing with your long sleeve tops.

For this crochet pattern you will need:

Size J / 6mm crochet hookPaid Link
50g DK yarn in a single color
Scissors
Yarn needlePaid Link

The bracketed number at the end of each row is a stitch count, to help you make sure you are on the right track as you go along.

Row 1

Chain (ch) 27 stitches, slip stitch (sl st) to join as a circle (27)

Row 2

*Ch2, then dc (US) into the 3rd stitch from the hook. Dc into the next 26 stitches. Sl st into the top of the initial chain to join. (27)

Row 3 to 5

Repeat from * (27)

You are now beginning to make your thumb hole. The next few rows will not continue in a circle, but will leave a large gap.

Row 6

Ch2, dc into the 3rd st from the hook. Dc once into the next 22 stitches. Ch2 from the final stitch. (23)
Turn over the glove

Row 7

dc into 3rd st from the hook. Dc once into next 22 stitches. (23)

Turn over the glove

Row 8

ch2, 2dc into next st, dc once into next 21 st, 2dc into final st of the row. Sl st to join. (25)

You have now made the thumb hole.

Row 9

ch2, 2 x dc2tog, dc once into 18 st, 2 x dc2tog, sl st. (23)

Row 10

ch2, 2 x dc2tog, dc once into next 12 st, then 2 x dc2tog, sl st (17)

At the end of the row cut off a long tail or yarn, and weave it back into the glove.

Simple Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern

These fingerless gloves are more tailored to the shape of your hand. Made to fit small to medium sized female hand and wrist diameters. The wool blend gives a very warm finish, although slightly rougher than some of the other materials.

The thick base stripe gives a defined finish to your glove, and completes the look.

You will need:

5mm crochet hook
Aran Blend Wool – Approx 50g main color +10g accent color for both hand warmers
Scissors
Yarn needlePaid Link

Row 1

Chain (ch) 26, slip stitch (sl st) to join as a circle. (26)

Row 2

*ch2, then double crochet (dc) US into the back loop only (blo) of the 3rd chain from the hook. dc once into the next 25 stitches. Sl st into the top of the initial chain to join (26)

Row 3 and 4

ch2, dc into both loops of the 3rd stitch from the hook. dc once into each subsequent stitch. Sl st to join at the end of the row. (26)

We will now be working on opening a thumb hole in your hand warmer.

Row 5

ch2, dc into both loops of the 3rd stitch from the hook. dc once into the next 24 stitches. Do not join. (25)

Row 6 and 7

turn your glove over. Ch2, dc into the 3rd stitch from the hook. Dc once into the next 24 stitches. (25)

Row 8

turn your glove over. Ch2, dc into the same stitch you made the chain from. Dc once into the next 23 stitches. 2dc into the last st in the row. Sl st to join. (27)

You have now created your thumb hole. We will now be working a reduction for the final part of your hand.

Row 9

ch2, dc the next 2 stitches together twice ( 2 x dc2tog). Dc once into the next 18 st. 2 x dc2tog. Dc into the base of the initial chain. Sl st to join. (24)

Row 10

ch2, 2 x dc2tog. Dc once into the next 14 st. 2 x dc2tog. Dc into the base of the chain. Sl st to join. (20)

Row 11

ch2, dc2tog. Dc once into the next 14 st. dc2tog. Sl st to join, beginning your color change (cc) in this join. (18)

We will now be adding a little bit of length to the hand warmer, and working with your accent color

Row 12

ch 2, using the ch as the 1st st, dc once into each st in the round. Sl st to join. (18)

Row 13

ch 2, using the ch as the 1st st, dc once into each st in the round. Sl st to join. (18)

Row 14

ch 2, using the ch as the 1st st, dc once into each st in the round. Sl st to join. (18)

Finally to finish off, sew the ends into the body of your hand warmer using a yarn needle. Make sure to leave a generous tail when you cut off.

Striped Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern

These crocheted fingerless gloves contain a repetitive striping pattern, which gives them a more sculpted look when finished. The pale and dark contrast is nice and eye catching, and they follow a little further down your arm to give extra warmth.

You will need:

5mm crochet hook
50g dk blue wool, 50g dk purple (I used Women’s Institute acrylic yarn)
Scissors
Yarn needlePaid Link

Begin with the blue yarn.

Row 1

ch25, sl st to join

Row 2

ch2, dc into the next 24 stitches, sl st

Row 3

ch2, dc 24, cc, sl st

Row 4

ch2, dc 24, cc, sl st

Row 5

ch2, dc 24, sl st

You are now beginning your thumb hole. Do not join the next few rows at their end.

Row 6

ch2, dc 23, cc.

Row 7

ch2, dc 23, cc.

Row 8

ch2, dc 23

Row 9

ch2, dc into the based of the same chain as an increase. Dc into the next 22, 2dc into the final stitch, cc, sl st to join

Row 10

ch2, 2x dc2tog, dc into the next 18 stitches, 2x dc2tog, cc, sl st

Row 11

ch2, 2x dc2tog, dc 15, 2x dc2tog, sl st

Row 12

ch2, dc 19, cc, sl st

Row 13

ch2, dc 19, cc, sl st

Row 14

ch2, dc 19, sl st

Row 15

ch2, dc 19, sl st

Finally to finish off, sew the ends into the body of your hand warmer, using a yarn needle. Keep it to other areas that were worked in your blue yarn, so that the sewing doesn’t show through the pattern.

Warm Cuffed Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern

This crochet fingerless gloves pattern is similar to the one above, with reversed colors and a different style to your cuff.

You will need:

5mm crochet hook
50g dk blue wool, 50g dk purple (I used Women’s Institute acrylic yarn)
Scissors
Yarn needlePaid Link

Begin with the purple yarn.

Row 1

ch25, sl st to join

Row 2

ch2, dc into the next 24 stitches, sl st

Row 3

ch2, dc 24, cc, sl st

Row 4

ch2, dc 24, cc, sl st

Row 5

ch2, dc 24, sl st

You are now beginning your thumb hole. Do not join the next few rows at their end.

Row 6

ch2, dc 23, cc.

Row 7

ch2, dc 23, cc.

Row 8

ch2, dc 23

Row 9

ch2, dc into the based of the same chain as an increase. Dc into the next 22, 2dc into the final stitch, cc, sl st to join

Row 10

ch2, 2x dc2tog, dc into the next 18 stitches, 2x dc2tog, cc, sl st

Row 11

ch2, 2x dc2tog, dc 15, 2x dc2tog, sl st

Row 12

ch2, dc 19, cc, sl st to join.

Section Two

You will now need to begin a separate piece, which we will incorporate as a cuff when completed.

Row 1

ch9, sl st

Row 2

ch2, dc into next 8 stitches.

Row 3

ch2, dc into next 8 stitches.

Remember to use the end of the previous chain as the final stitch or your rows will gradually decrease.

Row 4 to 15

ch2, dc into the next 8 stitches.

Row 16

join the cuff into a circle by dc-ing each stitch together

Row 13/16

Combining the cuff and glove. Dc on the inside of the cuff and glove around from row 12, once into each stitch and through the cuff’s edge.

Make sure you leave long tails when each part is complete, to securely sew it into the pattern.

Puff Stitch Cuffed Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern

The final pattern is my personal favorite. Wear these fingerless gloves with longer sleeves. They have a defined short puff stitch cuff. This thick stitch keeps this normally exposed area from catching a chill, as well as providing some definition and styling.

You will need:

5mm crochet hook
50g grey wool blend aran yarn (I used Patons)
50g pink dk yarn
Scissors
Yarn needlePaid Link

Row 1

chain 27, sl st

Row 2

ch2, dc into the next 26, color change, sl st

Row 3

ch2, dc 26, sl st

Row 4

ch2, dc 26, color change, sl st

Row 5

ch2, dc 26, sl st

Row 6

ch2, dc 26, cc.

Row 7

ch2, dc 26

Row 8

ch2, dc 26, cc.

Row 9

ch2 & dc, 25 dc, 2dc, sl st

Row 10

ch2, 2 x dc2tog, dc 20, 2 x dc2tog, cc, sl st

Row 11

ch2, 2 x dc2tog, dc 16, 2 x dc2tog

Row 12

ch2, 2 x dc2tog, dc 17, cc, sl st

We are now going to make the cuff using puff stitches

Row 13

ch2, puff stitch, ch 2, sl st into the next stitch, *ch2 from the sl st, puff stitch into the next st, ch2 from the puff stitch, sl st into the next st. Repeat from * until rows end.

The post 5 Free Fingerless Gloves Crochet Patterns appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Crochet Beanie: Your Easy Crochet Hat Pattern

Lucy Kate — Tue, 04 Oct 2022 13:56:00 +0000

This easy crochet hat pattern is perfect for making a comfortable, quick beanie style hat. Today I’ll be helping you to make your own warm and snuggly crochet hat. I’ll share the yarn, equipment and stitches you’ll need, and give simple step by step instructions for crocheting your own hat

What you’ll need to crochet your hat
Stitches and pattern instructions
Easy crochet hat pattern

Nothing beats a good hat when the weather is chilly. I must admit I am very pleased with this one. I hope that you enjoy making and wearing it as much as I have!

Easy Crochet Hat Equipment

To follow this easy crochet hat pattern you will need the following crochet equipment:

220 yards / 150g aran weight Lion Brand Landscapes Charcoal YarnPaid Link
Size I / 5.5mm Crochet HookPaid Link
Yarn NeedlePaid Link
Stitch MarkersPaid Link

I am a real fan of this Lion Brand yarn. You have lots of colors to choose from, so you can pick the one which suits you best. It works up very nicely, and has a lovely soft finish. It is also quite tough for such a gentle yarn.

Easy Crochet Hat Stitches & Pattern Instructions

To make this easy crochet hat you will need to use a few different crochet techniques including:

The easy crochet pattern will be given using abbreviations, but with full instructions in italics underneath for those newer to reading crochet patterns.

Easy Crochet Hat Pattern

Your easy crochet hat is worked in a continuous circular pattern.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches. (8)

Round 2

Put 2 single crochets (2sc) into each stitch. (16)

Round 3

Make 1 puff stitch (1PS) in the first stitch, then 1 double crochet (1dc) into the next.

Then continue in the same pattern (1ps, 1dc) x 7. (16)

Round 4

(1dc, 2dc) x 8. (24)

Make 1 double crochet in the first stitch, then two double crochets in the next, continuing in this fashion for the duration of the round.

Round 5

(1ps, 2dc, 1ps) x 8. (32)

Make 1 puff stitch in the first stitch, then 2 double crochets into the next stitch, then 1 puff stitch into the following stitch. Repeat for the length of the round.

Keep It Going!

Round 6

(1ps, 1dc, 1ps, 2dc) x 8. (40)

Make 1 puff stitch in the first stitch, then 1 double crochet into the next stitch, then 1 puff stitch into the following stitch, then 2 double crochet into the stitch after that. Repeat for the length of the round.

Round 7

(1ps, 1ps, 2dc, 1ps, 1ps) x 8. (48)

Make 1 puff stitch into each of the first two stitches, then 2 double crochet into the next stitch, then 1 puff stitch into the following two stitches. Repeat for the length of the round.

Round 8

(1dc, 1ps, 1ps, 2dc, 1ps, 1ps) x 8. (56)

Make 1 double crochet into the first stitch, then 1 puff stitch into the next two stitches. Next make 2 double crochets into the following stitch, and finish this pattern with 1 puff stitch in the next two stitches. Repeat for the length of the round.

Round 9 – 19

(1ps, 1dc) x 8. (56)

To work the body of the hat, alternate a puff stitch into one stitch, then a double crochet into the next. Follow this repetitive pattern of alternating stitches from round 9 to round 19.

Round 20

Put 1 single crochet into each stitch.
At the end of the round, slip stitch into the next stitch, cut off the yarn and tie off.
Then sew the loose end back into the body of the hat using your yarn needle.

Making Your Own Easy Crochet Hat

I hope you enjoy making your own easy crochet hat. I highly recommend the Lion Brand Landscape yarnsPaid Link, and they come in lots of colors. So you can pick the one that suits you the best.

More Easy To Crochet Clothes

Happy Crocheting! Lucy Kate, x

The post Crochet Beanie: Your Easy Crochet Hat Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.