I found substituting yarn in crochet patterns a bit intimidating the first few times I did it with someone else’s designs, but it’s always turned out just fine. And now, over a decade into the crochet hobby, I don’t really worry about doing it at all. And that’s because I have a few rules that I follow when making changes, which I’ll share with you today.

So if you don’t have the right yarn at home, or can’t afford to buy the recommended brand – it’s no big deal. And if you don’t like the fiber, or want a different thickness, or even are allergic to the material used, you’ll also be fine swapping in a different yarn entirely. As long as you make sensible choices, and a few tweaks when you do.

DO use a similar yarn if you can

I try to start off by focusing on three main areas – yarn weight, fiber and color. So if my pattern recommends a DK weight, acrylic, pink yarn, that’s what I’ll seek out. But of course, that’s not always possible or practical.

DO use the same yarn weight if you want the same size

The finished size of a crocheted toy, blanket or item of clothing is dictated in a large part by the yarn weight. If you want the outcome of the pattern to be similarly sized to the one you’re following, keep that yarn thickness the same.

DO swap hook sizes if you change yarn weight

It’s tempting to keep the same hook even if you size up or down in yarn weight, because at a basic level it feels like it’ll help keep it consistent, right? Sadly, wrong. Always get your hook to match the yarn, even when following a pattern.

DO check your hook size even if the weight is the same

So variable are hook sizes, that you will find that different brands, fibers or varieties of yarn that are labelled as the same weight will often require slightly different hook measurements. Not all DK yarns need a 3.5mm hook, not all aran yarns need a 5.5mm hook. It ranges more than you might think, so it’s always worth checking.

DO try to use the same fiber

Unless you are subbing out your yarn due to an allergy, try to use the same fiber as is shown in the pattern as this can really influence the texture and elasticity of your finished crocheted item. If you do need to change fiber, away from wool for example, then try to find something that feels quite like it and has a similar amount of stretch.

DO color match before you begin

At the start of each project I lay out my yarns together, in their skeins, on a white sheet or clear table. Then I stare at them and make sure I’m happy with how they look in one place. It sounds a bit over the top, but it genuinely has saved me from some pretty awful color choices in the past.

DO check quantities and your budget

Price doesn’t just go up when you choose a more expensive yarn brand. It can also vary between yarns of the same cost, because the amount that you’ll need varies so much from skein to skein. Two 100g hanks of yarn of the same weight can have quite different yardages, so you’ll need more cakes of one brand than you would of another.

DO make a sample

Whenever you swap yarns, work up a little sample using the stitches you’ll need. Make sure you’re actually happy that it is likely to look and feel how you want it to.

DO check the gauge

The number of stitches per inch for a particular pattern changes based on a few factors. Different humans have varying tension, that’s why gauges exist. But something as simple as switching yarn can have an even bigger impact on the size of the stitches, and therefore how many fit in an inch space. This is particularly important if you’re making clothing to fit.

DO consider doubling up yarn strands

You can use multiple strands of finer yarns, to make up a thicker yarn, if you want the same weight. So say my pattern says use a 5mm hook and aran weight yarn? I could hypothetically use two strands of DK instead of one of aran. However, it’s still important to make up that sample to check you’ve got it right. Because this doesn’t directly translate for all types of yarn.

DON’T assume it will look the same

It never ceases to amaze me how different patterns look when tiny changes are made to the yarn. Just small changes, even with a color swap, can make a world of difference.

DON’T change yarn thickness if you want the same drape

This is a big one for substituting yarn in crochet clothes or wall hanging patterns, anything that dangles! To keep the crocheted product hanging in just the same way as your pattern shows, stick to that same thickness and fiber of yarn.

DON’T mix fibers and weights where they weren’t mixed in the pattern

Unless you like a bumpy, often misshapen look, mixing yarn weights in a pattern designed to use skeins of the same weight is never a good idea.

DON’T be afraid to experiment

All that being said… sometimes it’s great to throw caution to the wind and see what you come up with. I love making bold and different yarn choices, so give yarn substituting a go and see what you can create.

The post Tips for Substituting Yarn in a Crochet Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Over the last few years I have put together an enormous selection of crochet books, (and one knitting book a well meant but for me rather mistaken gift!). My crochet books range between modern crochet pattern books, modern crochet stitch guides and vintage crochet books.

I highly recommend reading as many crochet books as you can get your hands on. They contain a wealth of ideas for my crochet projects, as well as being great fun.

Crochet Stitch Books

Here are a selection of my crochet stitch books. They each bring different skills, techniques and interpretations. There is something new to learn even from similarly titled books.

Crochet stitch books are helpful for beginners, but they make an incredible resource for experienced crocheters who want to create unique pieces and stretch their existing skills. Where my top choices are available on Amazon, I have added links for you to go and check them out.

“150 Crochet Blocks” by Sarah Hazell

Paid Link

I am a big fan of 150 Crochet Blocks by Sarah HazellPaid Link. If you like to make granny square blankets, then it’s a must-have crochet stitch book. The variety of crochet blocks is very impressive, with a lot of variation and excellent detailed patterns.

Although it does have a short tutorial section at the back of the book with hook illustrations, it is not the most beginner friendly crochet pattern book. I would highly recommend this book to anyone who has been crocheting for a little while and is confident reading patterns.

“50 Ripple Stitches” by Darla Sims

Paid Link

50 Ripple Stitches by Darla SimsPaid Link is an incredible reference for ripple or chevron crochet stitches. The instructions are clearly laid out and the variety of ripple stitches is outstanding.

Ripple stitches were something I found particularly tricky when I was learning to crochet, and I still find them more vexing than the average crochet pattern. This book has been very helpful, and I look forward to making more use of it in the future too.

“Compendium of Crochet Techniques” by Jan Eaton

Paid Link

Compendium of Crochet Techniques by Jan EatonPaid Link is a good foundation guide. There are a couple of Jan Eaton books on my shelf. This was the one which I found the most helpful when I was learning to crochet. It’s instructions are clearly laid out and well illustrated.

It isn’t a glamorous book with tonnes of crochet eye-candy, but it is a very information crochet foundation course. Take the time to read it thoroughly and even the most experienced crocheter will learn something new.

“Filet Crochet” by Pam Dawson

Filet Crochet by Pam Dawson is a very clearly laid out little book. Giving a range of options for filet crochet. This isn’t an area I have explored yet, so it’s sitting on my crochet bookshelf awaiting future use.

I’m updating this article from 2016 today, in 2024. I still have this book, and I still haven’t read it… I think filet crochet might not be for me!

“The New Encyclopedia Of Crochet Techniques” by Jan Eaton

Paid Link

The New Encyclopedia Of Crochet Techniques by Jan EatonPaid Link is a sound beginners guide. When I started using this book as a beginner I felt it was a little lacking in detail. It is probably best used by someone with a few months of crocheting and a little confidence gained. In general though it has good, sensible advice with excellent illustrations to guide you to the right choice.

I still leaf through the pages occasionally if I am lacking confidence in something I am putting together (or forget the names of the stitches I am writing down!). A great pillar of the keen crocheter’s collection.

Crochet Pattern Books

Crochet pattern books come in a wide range. From those aimed at beginners, to books focussing on a particular style or area of crochet.

“Amigurumi Toy Box” by Ana Paula Rimoli

Paid Link

This adorable Amigurumi Toy Box book Paid Linkhas some very characterful patterns. The quirky amigurumi style is very popular, and if you like these sweet little patterns and are crochet confident, then I would highly recommend it.

It isn’t an ideal choice for beginners, as the instructions at the back are brief. The patterns are given immediately in crochet abbreviations, so you will need to be familiar in their meanings before you begin. But if you are happy with reading patterns, then this fun and sweet guide will give you hours of entertainment.

“Beastly Crochet” by Brenda K.B. Anderson

Paid Link

“Beastly Crochet” by Brenda K.B. Anderson Paid Linkis a fun and very visual book. It’s not a traditional crochet book, but rather contains fun, quirky ideas and patterns for crochet lovers. It doesn’t contain a vast number of patterns, but those which it does are well laid out and described.

There is also a big range, from kids clothing to toys and accessories. Great for crochet lovers who want something a bit different to make for the kids in their lives.

“Boho Crochet” by Marinke Slump

Paid Link

Boho Crochet is a very bright, modern crochet book Paid Linkwith a friendly feel to it. The range of patterns is good, and the introductory project selector section at the beginning is a great way to quickly find the sort of thing you were looking for.

This beautiful guide was put together by Marinke (Wink) Slump, who also created several of the patterns included. Her death was a great loss to the online crochet community, but her incredible talent is well remembered in this fabulously styled crochet pattern book.

“Crochet Mini Makes”

Paid Link

Crochet Mini Makes is a lovely bookPaid Link, but it is surprisingly dated in appearance for such a recently published crochet pattern book. The color combinations used are quite staid and there is something very formal about the feeling of the book. This said, it has some excellent qualities. The stitch guides are superbly clear with step by step photographs showing exactly how each one should be carried out.

The patterns it contains are also universally useful, with staple crochet items like hats, bags and cushions. Overall, a great first crochet book for beginners.

“Crocheted Accessories” by Helen Ardley

Paid Link

Crocheted Accessories by Helen ArdleyPaid Link is not perhaps as visually pleasing as some of the other books on this list, with slightly more old fashioned patterns and colors. The range of ideas is broad however, and the tutorial section is nice and clear.

There are some lovely perhaps more mature items shown in this book, although some of the colors are not to my taste this is something that is easy to solve with a dash of imagination when you are creating them.

“Crocheted Wild Animals” by Vanessa Mooncie

Paid Link

Crocheted Wild Animals Paid Linkhas some beautiful patterns, but is a bit of a mixed bag over all. There are some gorgeous patterns, one of which I slaved over when I was still fairly new to crochet.

They are a specific sort of pattern, at the realistic end of the spectrum and intricately designed. The downside of the book is that patterns are not the easiest to follow, requiring a bit of concentration and your thinking cap to be firmly on your head.

“Cute & Easy Crochet With Flowers” by Nicki Trench

This is a lovely crochet pattern book, and focusses on a very popular crochet theme – the flower. It’s not just limited to slower designs either, including several everyday crochet items and sweet ways that they can be included in the designs. The stitches are well illustrated for the benefit of crochet beginners, and the patterns are clearly detailed and well described.

I love looking through this book even when I’m not planning any particular project, and must admit to being quite envious of some of the lovely rooms pictured in it too!

“Edward’s Menagerie” by Kerry Lord

Paid Link

I have to be honest, I’m a little biased here. Edward’s Menagerie has a special place in my heartPaid Link. It was the first crochet book I ever owned, and was given to me very soon after I’d started out, by my Mum. I still frequently flick through it, and I adore the style of the animals depicted.

The book begins with a fantastic general walk through to making crochet animals, which is useful throughout the book. Even as a beginner I therefore had a fair amount of success when following these patterns.

The only negative point I can think of is that some of the descriptions given before the patterns are, to be frank, bizarre. Giving odd backstories and personalities to the patterns, which give a humorous if totally irrelevant padding to the rest of this excellent guide. This aside, I can’t recommend this book enough if you are interested in crocheting some seriously adorable and fairly kid friendly crochet toys.

“Granny Squares” by Susan Pinner

Granny Squares by Susan Pinner Paid Linkhas a great ‘Getting Started’ section, with good advice on hooks, yarn and basic crochet techniques. There are twenty crochet patterns to follow in this book, and they are each based on a different type of granny square design.

The book itself is bright, cheerful and nicely written. A great addition for any granny square fans out there.

“Hook, Stitch & Give” by Kat Goldin

Hook, Stitch & GivePaid Link is visually one of my favorite crochet books, and regularly gets flicked through. I have never followed a pattern from it because it’s a fairly recent acquisition and I can see how to produce the items without reading them, so for me it’s simply a great source of inspiration.

This said, the photography is beautiful and the patterns are well written, and I think that this would make an excellent first crochet pattern book for someone who is just starting to dip their toes into the crochet waters.

Vintage Crochet Books

My vintage crochet bookshelf is something that I hold very dear. They contain a wealth of information, but also just an amazing historical array of images and ideas.

You can find out more about the contents of some of these books in my Vintage Crochet Books article here.

“A Complete Crochet Course” by Muriel Kent

A Complete Crochet Course is lacking in photographs, but makes up for it with diagrams illustrating techniques and basic patterns for creating your own crochet clothing.

An interesting insight into how crochet could have been picked up before the wonderful world of the internet.

“Crochet”: Super Designs For Babies, Women & Home

This book is incredibly dated, but not in quite the same bold way as some of my older guides. I suspect this is because it’s just a touch earlier, and therefore the extravert 80’s wasn’t in full swing when it came into creation.

It does however contain some very interesting patterns, including crocheted halter top and the fun glitter caps that were so popular then. There is also an amazing shaggy bear bathmat, which I will definitely be trying one day.

“Crochet Workshop” by James Walters

One of the more recent additions to my Crochet Bookshelf, this book really is blast from the past.

It contains clear illustrated instructions for crochet beginners, and some very funky vintage patterns. Not to mention great fun 1970’s photographs as shown on the rather stunning cover here.

“The Crocheter’s Art” by Del Pitt Feldman

The Crocheter’s Art is one of my very favorite crochet books, although for a slightly different reason. It is primarily a pictorial collection of amazing artistic works of crochet including pictures, scenes and fabulous sculptures from a range of cultures and inspirations.

If you are thinking of doing something a bit different with your crochet skills, then I highly recommend tracking down a copy of this guide.

“The Crochet Sweater Book” by Sylvia Cosh

This is one of my favorite books. It’s vintage crochet gold. The 80’s style illustrations are fabulous, with some really extravagant puffed sleeves and bold geometric designs.

The author, Sylvia Cosh, is one of the best known crochet artists and clothing designers of the 70’s and 80’s and was incredibly well respected in the field. It also gives a great basis for crochet sweaters that can be altered to suit today’s tastes.

I am currently working on adapting and updating a crochet sweater pattern from this book, to modernise it and make it more fashionable. It’s fairly clear in terms of patterns, and for any confident crocheter it’s worth picking up a copy to see if you can adapt the patterns to suit your tastes.

“The Great Crochet Bazaar Book” 

The Great Crochet Bazzaar Book is as bizarre as it is bazaar. There are some amazing crochet toy ideas, blankets and clothes.

Your Crochet Bookshelf

I hope that you enjoy filling your crochet bookshelf as much as I have. If there are any suggestions of crochet books you love, please do feel free to let us know about them in the comments section below!

*The products linked in this pattern were carefully selected by Lucy Kate Crochet. If you decide to purchase using the links provided, we may earn a small commission on that sale. This is at no extra cost to you.

The post Crochet Books: My Crochet Bookshelf appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Crochet hooks are literally an essential part of the hobby, and yet the importance of choosing the right one is often overlooked. You’ll spend hours choosing the right yarn weight, texture and fiber, only to pick up the nearest crochet hook that meets your size requirements.

But picking the wrong crochet hook doesn’t just have the potential to make or break your next project, it could even turn you off the hobby for good.

Today I’ll share ten things I take into account when choosing which crochet hook to work with, from the grips to the tip!

• Ergonomic grips
• Shafts, throats and mouths
• Price vs aesthetics

But before I dive in, here’s a diagram to show you which parts of the hook I’ll be talking about:

Go with an Ergonomic Grip

Crochet hooks are easier to hold when they have a thicker handle end. Not only does it make the hook simpler to manipulate, but I find that I can use them for much longer periods than the classic stick-like versions.

Ergonomic grips are usually made of wood, rubber or plastic, but my preference is for the rubber gripped varieties.

Your Handle Needs Friction

To hold onto your grip and move it around using the fine motor movements of your fingers and wrist, you need friction between your hand and the hook. I’ve got a gorgeous wooden handled crochet hook, but it’s so well polished and sanded that it simply slides through my hand when I try to work it.

Having something creating friction means you will find it much easier to hold your hook without having to squeeze really hard, therefore reducing the amount of time you can crochet and increasing the likelihood of you finding yourself with a bit of a strain.

Grip Texture

Your hook’s texture isn’t just about friction, but about how it feels to you personally. Obviously you want to avoid hooks that are abrasive on your skin. But ideally you want something that is so comfortable you can barely feel that it’s there. Rubber really does seem to be a winner on this count too, for me.

Longer Shafts are Better

Crochet hooks vary hugely in terms of the shaft length, which is the space between the hook and grip sections. I find short shafts much harder to work with. I think it’s because they interrupt the natural flow of my stitches. Aborting them before I’m ready to stop working. It also means if you’re using a stitch that keeps a number of loops on the hook, like a puff stitch, that you’ll struggle to make it neatly.

Smooth Hook Heads

Hook heads are usually made of metal, and even if it looks at first glance like your hook is smooth I repeatedly come across hooks that have tiny metal burrs or bumps in the throat or mouth. This means that the yarn catches as you hook through, breaking your motion and often the yarn fibers too.

Avoid this by take a length of yarn and running it back and forth through the throat of the hook before you commit to using a hook.

Switchable Hook Heads

This one isn’t a priority, but I totally love hooks with replaceable heads. They save storage space, and you just unscrew each hook size and replace it with the one you’re currently working on.

Head Shape

Your hook’s head should be tapered at the top and have a fairly deep throat at the hook point. This will make it easier to insert into stitches, and to pick up your yarn as well.

Is The Price Right?

It’s no good creating the perfect hook if no one can afford it, right? I think we have to include a budget when we’re considering what to buy, because for most of us it’s an inescapable fact of life. My method is to look first at whether the hook meets my expectations, and then decides whether it fits into my finances. The one that meets the most of my criteria within my desired budget is the winner.

Crochet Hook Looks!

Aesthetics matter to me. I am more likely to pick up a pretty hook than one that’s plain and boring, and when I’m staring at a hook for quite a lot of my day it might as well brighten it up with its mere existence! Pretty patterns, cool designs and interesting shapes all make a difference to me when it comes to hook choice – but it’s the last thing on the list, and only if all the above points are equal.

*The products linked in this pattern were carefully selected by Lucy Kate Crochet. If you decide to purchase using the links provided, we may earn a small commission on that sale. This is at no extra cost to you.

The post Ingredients for The Best Crochet Hooks appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Yarn is a catch-all term for spun fiber. It’s basically any long stringy stuff that gets wound into a ball or skein, ready to crochet into fabulous things. Yarn is where crochet is born.

I have a bad habit of calling all yarns wool. Which is, of course, frequently incorrect. Natural wool from sheep, goats and alpacas can be turned into yarn, but so can acrylic, polyester, bamboo, cotton, linen and silk. And they can all be used for crochet!

If you’re new to crochet, or even just trying a new kind of project for the first time, choosing which yarn to buy can feel like a high stakes gamble. If the pattern doesn’t include directions about what yarn to use, how should you begin to choose? And if the pattern does recommend a specific yarn, how much does it matter if you can’t get hold of it, or don’t want to use it? Here’s our complete guide to choosing and using crochet yarns.

Want to know how to store your yarn in the best possible way? Jump over to this article!

Yarn 101

Yarns can be grouped by a variety of different properties:

• Fiber
• Weight
• Budget
• Texture
• Color/dye method

And you need to consider them in roughly that order. At each stage, you’ll make a decision about what’s most appropriate for your project, and that will narrow down your options a bit more. Just like applying filters to search results in an online shop! Eventually you’ll be left with a clear list of criteria, and probably just a handful of products to choose from, all of which should work equally well.

Step 1: Can you follow the yarn recommendation in the pattern?

If the pattern you’re following recommends using a particular type of yarn, you’ll achieve the most reliable results by sticking to that brief. Some patterns offer really specific yarn advice, and going along with that advice, if you can, certainly takes the head-scratching out of your choice. But what if it’s not available in your region, or outside your budget, or you don’t like the colors it comes in? The next best yarn you can use is one that has the same properties as the pattern-writer’s yarn. Three ways of finding that perfect dupe are:

• Use the filters on an online yarn retailer’s website to find yarns with the same properties.
• Put the name of the recommended yarn into yarnsub.com and let them do the legwork for you.
• Ask your knowledgeable local yarn store owner for suggestions.

Some patterns offer some advice about what yarn to use. For example they’ll say ‘using a DK yarn’, or ‘using a cotton yarn with a correctly sized hook’. In that scenario, the rest of this article will help you fill in the missing criteria and make a choice.

If you’re going to ignore any specific recommendations in the pattern, first think about why they were chosen in the first place. For example, a storage basket pattern which calls for cotton yarn will likely lose its structure if you replace it with acrylic. But you can play with different thicknesses of cotton yarn to achieve different sized baskets.

An important note about gauge

For garments, whenever you substitute one yarn for another, you should always make a swatch to check the gauge matches the pattern. Even between two yarns in the same weight category this won’t always be the case. If your gauge doesn’t match, try swapping to a crochet hook one size up, or down. For projects like blankets, scarves and amigurumi, achieving the exact same gauge is less important.

Step 2: What fiber to choose

Fiber means what a yarn is made out of. Common fibers used to make yarn include:

• Wool
• Acrylic
• Polyester
• Nylon
• Cotton
• Bamboo
• Linen
• Silk

There are lots of blended yarns on the market too, which harness the strengths of more than one fiber. Wool mixed with acrylic is an especially common blend: it’s more affordable than pure wool yarn, but warmer and holds its shape better than pure acrylic yarn.

Here’s an overview of the strengths and weakness of the popular yarn fibers:

Wool

Wool is the classic fiber for spinning yarn from – us humans have been at it for thousands of years. Natural wools can be made from the fleece of sheep, alpaca and goats (cashmere is a goat’s wool). And they have so many superior properties they’re almost magical – they’re warm, soft, durable, antistatic, moisture wicking, odor and dirt repelling, flame retardant, and hold their shape well.

In the past, some crocheters were put off wool because it needed gentle handwashing, but these days we’re blessed with superwash wools which are fully machine washable. Their other drawback is cost. Even the most budget friendly natural wool is at least twice the price of a synthetic equivalent. Which is why wool/synthetic blends are so popular.

Great for making: Sweaters, cardigans, winter accessories, special blankets you’re happy to spend the money on.
Avoid using it for: Items that are going to get wet during use (eg. dishcloths and swimwear), or storage baskets with rigid sides (it’s too stretchy).

Acrylic

For years, I was the BIGGEST yarn snob when it came to crochet. I actually cringe a little at myself looking back at it, but I figured if I was going to put the effort into making something, I wanted it to feel beautiful, and last a long time. And I just didn’t think acrylic yarns were up to the job. Boy I was wrong. Modern yarn production techniques mean we’re spoiled for choice with acrylic yarns that come in mouth watering colours, feel soft to work with, wash well, and still look great after years of use. For garments, I still recommend using acrylics with some wool added though, for extra warmth, elasticity, and longevity.

Great for making: Big throws and blankets that don’t break the bank.
Avoid using it for: Garments that will sit right next to the skin – even the smoothest acrylics tend to get hot and itchy without a base layer underneath.

Polyester

Most polyester yarns are the velvety chenilles that exploded onto the crochet scene in the 1980s and quickly became popular for making blankets and plush toys. Despite their thickness, they’re lightweight, and their squashy texture is irresistible, and they’re a lot of fun to work with. That said, they do have a love-it-or-hate it effect on a lot of people. Whichever camp you fall into, it doesn’t really matter – there’s plenty of room in this world for all of us!

Great for making: Blankets, and big, cuddly amigurumi.
Avoid using it for: Anything else.

Nylon

Also known as polyamide, nylon is lightweight, elastic, hardwearing, and quick drying. It’s an important addition to most sock yarns, to stop them wearing through at the heel too quickly.

Some people resist nylon, acrylic and polyester yarns because they’re worried about the environmental impact of synthetic yarns. It’s true that synthetic fibers come from non-renewable fossil fuels, and that once made, they will pretty much be around forever. But on the other hand, some of their natural equivalents, like cotton, also carry huge environmental manufacturing costs. And arguably, it’s single use plastics and fast fashion clothing and homewares that pose a bigger problem for the planet than handmade crochet items that are kept and reused for years. Something else you can do to keep the carbon footprint of synthetic fibers down is to check out one of the growing numbers of recycled yarns. Let us know if the comments box whether you use synthetic yarns or not!

Great for making: Pet clothes, swimwear.
Avoid using it for: Sweaters or cardigans – nylon generates a lot of static.

Cotton

Cotton yarns vary enormously, from rough, minimally processed fibers which hold their shape well when used for bags and storage baskets, to soft mercerized yarns that are soft enough to wear next to the skin. Bear in mind cotton can get hot and heavy to wear – a sweater made in solid crochet with DK yarn is going to feel equivalent to wearing a jean jacket. So for clothes, choose lightweight yarns, or patterns with lace designs in them, or use a cotton yarn with some acrylic added.

Cottons are also a popular choice for homewares and toys. They’re usually very affordable, and lots of manufacturers sell ‘palette bundles’ of mini balls in lots of colors for making amigurumi or decorations.

Great for making: Almost anything, if you pick the right one.
Avoid using it for: Swimwear that’s actually going to get wet – cotton yarns will sag.
Take care using it for: Garments made to a formula until you reach the right size, rather than a counted pattern (eg. hexagon cardigans and some top down sweater designs). Cotton yarns typically shrink by 5 – 10% the first time they’re washed. A counted pattern ought to account for this for you, but for something like a hexi-cardi, you’ll need to account for it yourself, that is, make it 5-10% larger than you want it to end up.

Bamboo

Bamboo has a lot of the same properties as cotton, but it’s more sustainable to produce. It’s usually added to cotton yarns, or mixed with nylon. It’s very lightweight and breathable for making summer tops, but some crocheters find it a little too smooth and slippery to work with – it’s definitely an acquired taste.

Great for making: Lightweight sweaters and summer tops.
Avoid using it for: Your first crochet project.

Linen and silk

Linen and silk are something you don’t generally buy unless you already have a project in mind which specifically calls for them. They usually come with a premium price tag, so you’re not going to end up with it by accident, or use it for any sort of experimental crochet ideas.

Linen is spun from fibers inside the stems of flax plants (which also give us flaxseed). It’s lightweight and breathable, so it’s perfect for making summer tops. Unfortunately, it’s also famously fickle to work with, and getting perfectly even tension or straight hemlines is close to impossible. But if you can embrace the perfectly imperfect, it does soften and drape beautifully with age, and it will last for decades.

Silk, meanwhile, is spun from the cocoons that surround silkworm larvae. Since this is an animal welfare concern for some crocheters, vegan friendly alternatives have started to crop up in recent years, including banana silk, eucalyptus silk, and bamboo silks. Like linen, silk is exceptionally hardwearing, and feels cool to wear on hot days.

Great for making: Summer clothes, lightweight shawls
Avoid using it for: Blankets

Step 3: What weight?

In most crochet patterns, if they make one yarn recommendation at all, it will be about what weight to use. Which makes sense, because it determines what size your finished project will be! But if you’re embarking on a project without a fixed pattern – for example a simple stripey scarf, or a blanket made out of granny squares, then you’re next decision after finding a fiber is choosing what yarn weight to use.

Yarns can be arranged in a scale of 8 weight categories, from lace to jumbo:

• Lace
• Superfine
• Fine
• Light
• Medium
• Bulky
• Super bulky
• Jumbo

Lace yarns

The lightest category of yarns. Honestly, if you’re not sure what yarn to use, you don’t want to choose this one. The people who use this know what they’re doing. And that could still be you, but probably not today.

Hook size: B1 or smaller (2.25mm or less)

Super fine and fine yarns

These include fingering weight, sock weight, sport weight. Many of them are also described as ‘4-ply’ on the wrapper, which will be significant in a moment. They’re popular for small projects like socks and amigurumi, and lightweight summer garments. They’re also the traditional choice for many shawl patterns.

Hook size: B1 – 7 (2.25 – 4.5mm)

Light yarns

This category includes most DK yarns, and some worsted yarns. DK stands for ‘double knitting’, because it is spun from 8 strands, making it 8-ply vs the 4-ply (super)fine yarns. Worsted yarns on the other hand are 10-ply, but if the fibers are very fine, they can still fall into the lightweight category. This is a versatile weight class, used for all types of projects.

Hook size: 7 – I9 (4.5 – 5.5mm)

Medium yarns

Medium yarns include most worsted yarns, and also aran yarns. They’re both 10-ply, but the strands are spun together differently, so that worsted yarns are narrower and aran yarns are slightly bulkier. But there’s not a lot in it, and it’s increasingly common for the two terms to be used interchangeably! It’s another versatile weight category, used in all types of crochet patterns.

Hook size: I9 – K10.5 (5.5 – 6.5mm)

Bulky yarns

Also known as chunky yarns, these can be 12 or even 16-ply thick. They’re popular for making sweaters, because their weight means they work up fast. They’re also a good choice for blankets, throw pillow covers, and winter accessories like hats and scarves.

Hook size: K10.5 – M13 (6.5 – 9mm)

Super bulky yarns

A.K.A. super chunky yarns. Even though it’s nearly as heavy as yarn can get, this weight category is home to yarns for a wide range of projects. Super bulky wool yarn is popular for hats, snoods and headbands. Cottons are perfect for turning into storage baskets or even rugs. And the polyester chenilles popular for making amigurumi plush toys are also mostly this weight.

Hook size: M13 – Q (9 – 16mm)

Jumbo yarns

Last but not least, a catch-all category for every yarn too big to work on a size Q hook! Jumbo yarns are mostly chenilles, but some cotton macrame cords being repurposed for crochet would also count as jumbo weight. Like lace weight yarns, you don’t typically end up using these unless you planned it from outset.

Step 4: Apply your budget

The next step after filtering the yarns on a website or a yarn store shelf by weight and fiber, is to remove the options outside of your budget.

In general, you get what you pay for with yarns. The cheapest options are likely to be lower quality, perhaps less durable, or may have been spun in factories with poor working conditions. At the top end, if you’re lucky enough to be able to afford them for a special project, there will likely be some premium yarns. These might come from small-scale, artisan spinners, be hand dyed in unique colors, or contain luxury fibers like cashmere. And the middle, there’ll (hopefully) be a choice of decent yarns at a range of price points, with minor differences between them.

Step 5: The little extras

Right now, you might already have whittled the possibilities down to just small handful of yarns. But if you’re still overwhelmed by options, here are some more criteria you might apply:

• Machine washability. This is particularly relevant when it comes to sifting between pure wool yarns. Projects like hats don’t need washing much, but sweaters (especially for kids) do.
• Anti-pilling. Some pilling in high friction areas (like in the armpits of sweaters) is inevitable, but the more tightly plied a yarn is, the better it will resist it. By contrast, single ply and loosely plied yarns will pill almost as soon as you look at them. Several of the larger brands have specific anti-pilling yarns now.
• Dye method. Most yarns are processed and dyed on a large scale using industrial machinery, but for extra special projects, hand dyed yarns add an extra layer of craftsmanship.
• Is it in a skein or a ball? The yarns below have been twisted into skeins. They’re cheaper for yarn makers to transport, and make it easier to see the dye distribution on patterned yarns. But, this yarn needs to be wound into balls before I start using it, or there will be an almighty tangle. You can wind skeins into balls by hand (it’s a workout!), or using a ball winder. If you’re not interested in the hassle of either option, choose a yarn which is sold in balls, not skeins.

Making your final choice

Once you’re able to say that you want to crochet an infinity scarf (for example) in red DK yarn, either spun from pure wool or a wool/acrylic blend, and you’ve refined the options to just those in your budget, then made a practical choice to focus on machine-washable yarns, it’s likely you’ll only have one or two left to choose from. Then you can choose the exact shade of red which most calls out to you, or the yarn with the best reviews from previous buyers, or you might get lucky and discover a premium yarn that’s normally outside your budget has been discounted. Either way, making that final choice should be pretty fun and easy now you’ve overcome the initial overwhelm of options!

For another perspective on making your final choice, here’s Lucy’s take on the same subject, and advice for making sure you never suffer yarn buyer’s remorse!

The one type of yarn you should never use for crochet

Finally, a word on the one yarn that sucks for all crochet projects of any type.

Boucle. It’s awful. All those little loops will get snagged on your hook and impede your progress, and you will end up throwing the whole lot across the room in a rage. Just don’t.

Yarn guide complete!

And that’s everything you need to know about choosing and using yarn for crochet projects! The possibilities really are endless, which is part of the fun. And the more projects you make, the more confident you’ll become experimenting with unusual choices. Happy crocheting!

The post Yarn For Crochet – Weights, Hooks and Styles appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

In this article I am going to help you put together the perfect crochet kit. Hooks, stitch markers, yarn, scissors or yarn cutters and some items you might not have thought of.

Whether you are completely new to crochet, or well established in the hobby, I will be giving advice to help you decide which crochet equipment to invest in.

Making sure that you have a successful crochet session every time you pick up your hook and yarn.

From the basic beginners tools needed for a crochet starter kit, to those crochet essentials, and other crochet accessories and crochet supplies that will keep your hooking flowing smoothly and looking fantastic.

Crochet Starter Kit

The best way to begin your crochet journey is with a great crochet starter kit.

How you put this starter kit together is entirely up to you, but my recommendation if you have never crocheted before is to have a crack at it with a very basic crochet starter kit before you tool up with everything under the sun.

Basic Crochet Starter Kit

• Aluminium crochet hook set
• A couple of skeins of yarn
• Some scissors

There are some amazing deals on Amazon for sets of crochet hooks.

Whilst you may think that buying an individual hook would be a more cost effective way of getting started, actually the best value for money is in the cheap but effective sets.

My first set of crochet hooks was a multi-sized multi-colored set of aluminium  crochet hooks like this one for under a fiverPaid Link.

If you know which crochet pattern you want to have a go with, then careful check the notes to make sure you are ordering an appropriate weight and type of yarn.

The most common yarn for beginner crochet patterns is DK yarn. If you haven’t set on a pattern yet but want to get your kit ordered, then pick a couple of different colors of this weight and you won’t find it too hard to get a pattern to suit.

Learning Techniques

You can find out more about the different weights of yarn described in crochet patterns here. You can also check out some advice on great crochet channels with clear beginners tutorials in my learning to crochet article.

Any sewing in off loose ends can be done at first using your hook, which will also help you to get to grips with holding it and finer manipulations of the hand. Any cutting can be done well enough with some kitchen scissors or a vegetable knife at this stage too. Just make sure that they are fairly sharp, to avoid fraying your threads.

So, yarn and a hook are the only things you need in a beginners crochet starter kit in order to kick off your inevitable crochet addiction. Let’s move on now to those crochet essentials for getting your hobby established.

Crochet Essentials

Your crochet starter kit contains the bare bones of what you will need to get crocheting. Once you have started though, you will soon find that there are some pieces of crochet equipment that you wouldn’t want to do without.

I think of these as my crochet kit essentials, and we will take a look at each in turn.

• Aluminium crochet hooks
• Soft grip crochet hooks
• Steel crochet hooks
• Plastic crochet hooks
• Yarn needles / crochet needles
• Crochet stitch markers
• Crochet scissors
• Crochet notepad
• Crochet storage

Crochet Hooks

Crochet hooks are not as straight forward as I had assumed when I began crocheting. They come in a variety of materials, sizes and, for lack of a better word, ‘hookyness’.

If you want to crochet a range of different items, you will need a range of crochet hooks to suit each of these purposes.

Aluminium Crochet Hooks

A range of sizes of aluminium crochet hook is the first thing I point new crocheters in the direction of when prepping their crochet kit. They are great all purpose tools.

The hook end is fairly slim and pointed and so can grab and pick up threads of yarn easily, they are clearly marked and distinguishable from each other and they have a flattend grip to help you easily move them around.

I have a couple of sets of aluminium crochet hooks, because they are so useful and I often have more than one project on the go at the same time. I like to leave a hook in the crochet I have temporarily paused work on, because it’s easier to pick it up again if it’s convenient. Not to mention the pain of working out which hook size you were using if you don’t.

These range in size between 2mm and 8mm, and are often all different colors to help you quickly see which you require.

Steel Crochet Hooks

If you enjoy working on intricate lacework and tiny toys, then steel crochet hooks are the only tiny hooks I use. They come to very fine points, and can be incredibly small sizes.

I haven’t as yet done a lot of fine lace crocheting, although I certainly intend to at some point.

So I mainly use these very small hooks for tiny toys and details on larger crochet pieces.

I have a couple of very good quality steel crochet hooks which turn stitches very well, which were kindly given to me by a friend whose grandmother had passed them on to her.

And I also have a set which came in a pack, along with some more of those ever useful aluminium crochet hooks.

If I’m right, it is this exact set of steel crochet hooks and aluminium crochet hooks on AmazonPaid Link.

Soft Grip Crochet Hooks

My soft grip crochet hooks are some of my favorite members of my crochet kit. These have aluminium or plastic hook ends, but a padded shaft which is easy to hold and move.

The benefit of these hooks is that when you are doing repetitive stitching, or working a very tough material like I did with my twine basket crochet pattern, they prevent you picking up blisters and keep the wrist and finger aches down really well.

There are a couple of potential downsides to them however, that need to be considered when you pick which ones to buy.

One being that the hook ends are short, because a look of the length of the hook is taken up with the grip.

Whilst not normally a problem, I have made some patterns where I have needed to switch as they can’t hold enough loops comfortably to work when for example treble crocheting stitches together.

The other is that the numbers on some of my soft grip hooks have rubbed off!

One brand have them carved or moulded into the grip itself, so this hasn’t occured.

However, the ribbed variety you can see pictured here had the numbers inked on.

This is a shame beacuse they have a longer hook section which is a little easier to use.

So I recommend when you choose your soft grip hooks to go for those with a longer hook section and numbers engraved into them rather than inked on. Those grips are designed to rub into your skin, and you don’t want to take the numbers with you as you work.

Plastic Crochet Hooks

Plastic crochet hooks also have an important place in my crochet kit.

They have a different feel to the metal hooks, and are often blunter.

I find that they work well with heavier weight yarn, and that they slide nicely in your grip for larger stitches.

They are also cheap, light weight and come in a wide range of sizes.

My only 9mm crochet hook is a plastic one, and it is very nicely weighted and workable.

I also have some fab slightly smaller plastic crochet hooks in a bright yellow color. The only downside of these smaller plastic crochet hooks is that they can be a little fiddly to work with as they have very small shafts.

Crochet Scissors

I highly recommend getting at least one pair of very sharp scissors for your crocheting.

Although using the household scissors works fine on a temporary basis, in the long run if you are anything like me it will annoy you.

Someone will move them, use them for something mucky, blunten them or want to share them whilst you are busy.

My favorite scissors for crocheting are the ones pictured.

A part of my Christmas present from my sister, they are razor sharp, pointed to the end and have soft wide handles.

Easy to pick up, cut and put down quickly.

It’s worth mentioning that as well as these scissors, I almost always have a knife nearby when I crochet as well.

Whilst scissors are almost always the easiest tool to cut thread, if you are working in a fiddly place or separting strands having a knife to fit into the gap can be more accurate.

Very sharp scissosr, with fairly fine blade width and large comfy grip are crochet essentials. The knife is optional, but advised.

Scissor Safety

It perhaps goes without saying, that whilst very sharp scissors and knives are the best way to cut yarn, they aren’t exactly family friendly.

You have two options for dealing with this. One is to have blunt ended scissors for daytime use. These are less dangerous, although they still have potential to cut a kids finger. They are also far harder to work with.

My solution is to simply keep my scissors and knife high up and out of my daughters reach. If they aren’t currently cutting, they are far from grabbing hands. Whilst a bit of pain, with kids safety comes first. Plus the extra getting up and down is probably keeping me ever so slightly fitter!

Crochet Needles

Crochet needles (often referred to as yarn needles) are crochet essentials.

Although you can hook in your loose ends, this case take a dreadfully long time and be far less neat and tidy than using a needle.

I have two types of crochet needles in my crochet kit. Steel yarn needles and plastic yarn needles.

These give me three different sizes to work with.

Plastic yarn needles

Plastic yarn needles are great for blankets, throws, covers.

Anything with a looser weave of stitch.

They are also vastly cheaper than steel yarn needles, so you can have loads kicking around for convenience of use.

I have two sizes of plastic yarn needle.

For lighter weight yarns I use the smaller size, and for heavier weight yarns I use the larger.

Steel Yarn Needles

I use my steel yarn needles for sewing in to small stitches of less than 4mm, usually within toys. I also use them for sewing in the ends on tougher constructions, like crochet baskets. Because they are made up of two strands of yarn, the stitches are tighter and less easy to work back into.

Steel yarn needles are both fine and strong, and can slip through those fiddly little gaps.

Crochet Stitch Markers

Crochet stitch markers are a bit of a life saver when it comes to keeping your crochet project on track. Which is why I have an entire article dedicated to using and choosing the right ones for you.

You need crochet stitch markers whenever you are working in a continuous spiral, or with a pattern that repeats and changes at specific points.

They allow you to keep count of how many stitches you have made, and which instruction in the crochet pattern you should be following at that point.

You can buy very cheap crochet stitch markers, but I have had poor results with the cheapest around.

I find that have very small openings and snap when you try and expand them to push them through the stitch.

I have two different styles of stitch marker, and they are useful for varying crochet projects. There is the split ring variety and the nappy pin variety.

I would advise having a pack of both types of crochet stitch marker in your crochet kit, as they have different pros and cons depending upon your current crocheting needs.

Your Crochet Notepad

My crochet notepad is almost as important to me as my hooks when I am crocheting.

If I am honest, I probably have about seven notepads on the go at any one time, dotted around my house wherever I was last putting hook to yarn.

Mine are predominantly used for writing down my patterns as I create them, keeping count of rows and drawing out potential new patterns and ideas.

I also like to note which hook I am working with for a particular pattern, and the batch number of the yarn I am using if I will require more than one skein.

The other big use my notepads are put to is with tally charts. They are a great way of keeping track of your rows and stitches.

Crochet Kit Storage

How you choose to store your crochet kit will depend upon a few factors. How much equipment you have, where you do your crocheting, and even who else lives in your house.

Crochet Hook Case

Sets of crochet hooks sometimes come presented in a crochet hook case. This will have the exact number of spaces required for the hooks that it arrived with.

Cheaper aluminium packs of crochet hooks will often be in a disposable plastic case, but some of the more complete sets such as my steel and aluminium crochet set pictured here come with a case you can keep and use yourself.

This is helpful for storing these crochet hooks, but not ideal if you have a vast quanitity.

Pencil Case

I actually store the majority of my crochet hooks in a pencil case.

It took a while to find one which suited my purpose, but this was ideal.

It has two sides divided by an additional zipped pocket in the middle.

I fill this pocket with my yarn needles, and use the divide to seperate types of hooks.

A pencil case is light, portable and if it has dividers can even keep your crochet hooks in some sort of order as well!

Small Pots

I keep my little crochet accessories in tiny pots with screw tops. This keeps them safely in one place, and discourages my young daughter from playing with the contents!

Crochet Accessories

General crochet accessories are fun things. They don’t have to be essential to your crocheting, but they can help the crochet session to run smoother, or simply be fun to own!

Here are a few crochet supplies which might be worth checking out when you do your crochet shop.

Blocking Board

If you are interested in making granny square blankets, then you can buy special blocking boards for helping you with this. Personally I have never used one, but find that a cork board and pins come in very handy for the same purpose.

When you create dozens of squares or hexagons using the granny stitch, you will find it much easier to attach them together and end up with an even and flat pattern if you first block them in.

This involves pinning the squares into their final desired shape and leaving them in place for a few days for the material to settle.

I recently made up a granny square blanket in this manner using a hexagonal pattern.

Sadly I didn’t take a picture of their slightly questionable shapes beforehand, but the pretty pattern you can see on my blocking board would not have turned out so well if I hadn’t placed them like this.

For a relatively small outlay you can get a large corkboard and a big pack of pins. It doesn’t need to be huge as you can stack the squares to the top of each pin’s height when you place them down.

A tip regarding making sure the sizes are exactly the same is to cut out a paper shape with the measurements of one finished hexagon and lay this on the board, setting a pin at each corner. You can then stretch your granny hexagon over the pins and get the required finished shape.

Row Counter

I have mentioned above that I use a notepad to count my rows, and indeed on complicated patterns even my stitches as I progress. But you can use a clicker to do this instead.

You simply depress the button each time you finish a row and it gives you a count up, ensuring that you keep track of the rows as you work.

Yarn Bowl

A yarn bowl is a great way of keeping the yarn you are working on safe and freely running.

This can either be a regular high sided bowl, or one with a special gap for the yarn to run through.

The former are easier to come by, the latter keeps the yarn more secure as you work.

You can get some lovely stylish yarn bowls to go with your crochet kit. And it’s certainly something on my wishlist, if only because I think they would look pretty in my office!

Safety Eyes

There are two main ways to add eyes to your crochet toys. One is to sew them on with thread or yarn, the other is to buy some pre manufactured eyes.

These eyes can either be in button form, or as safety eyes.

Sewing your eyes onto your crochet toy enables you to taylor them to suit the toy’s character. And indeed to give him the character you want him to have.

Button eyes can be very stricking, are easy to attach and there is a huge range to choose from.

The downside of buttons for eyes is that they can’t be played with by young children, as they present a choke hazard.

That’s where safety eyes come in. They have a special backing plate, which screws on to the back of the visible rounded eye part. The back plate is considerably wider than the front and the space in your stitches. This gives the eye added security even when tugged at.

They are relatively inexpensive and come in a large pack. So you can keep them handy for those spur of the moment creations.

Your Crochet Kit

Putting together your crochet kit should be fun, as well as helping you to have a successful crochet session.

If I have missed anything from your crochet kit in this list? Why not share your ideas in the comments section below?

Happy Crocheting! x

The post Crochet Kit: Everything You Need For A Successful Crochet Session appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Can you use acrylic yarn for dishcloths? Yes, you sure can!

I have used both cotton and acrylic yarn to crochet dishcloths, but in my personal opinion the best yarn to crochet cheap dishcloths is the versatile acrylic yarn. This material is fairly durable, easy to care for, and even machine washable at lower temperatures

Acrylic yarn is absorbent, though less so than other yarns. You don’t want to stick it in the dryer after cleaning, or use it on really caked in food or grease. But you can find acrylic yarn in every color imaginable, so if that’s your type of thing you can even design your dishcloths to match your kitchen.

• Can you use acrylic yarn for dishcloths?
• Acrylic yarn is the best for discloths.
• Jobs your acrylic crochet dishcloth can stand up to!
• Free crochet dishcloth pattern

There are a huge number of yarn options for many projects, but dishcloths need a yarn that’s durable but gentle. When I was planning this project I had some fiber decisions to make. Merino wool obviously wasn’t going to cut it for me, and chenille is far too keen to break away if you’re rough with it. Cotton yarn and acrylic yarn are my top crochet dishcloth contenders, because they are hardy and don’t have a rough texture.

Cotton yarn is however generally more expensive than acrylic yarn and you’re going to want to make up at least half a dozen dishcloths to have a decent enough stash to use and wash. So despite the inevitable plastic implications of a synthetic polymer yarn, I think acrylic yarn is the absolute best choice for your new dishcloth mission.

Can You Use Acrylic Yarn for Dishcloths?

Can you use acrylic yarn for dishcloths? Yes, of course you can! Although I recommend being a little bit careful when it comes to really stuck on food residue, or using bleach based products.

While acrylic is one of the materials crocheters can use to make a dishcloth, it isn’t always the perfect material for the project. Acrylic quickly melts in the presence of high temperatures. I also find it stretches a lot and is less absorbent than cotton and polyester. However, for every day wiping and washing up I find it really holds up.

Why I Use Acrylic Yarn for Dishcloths

The best yarn for dishcloths is often an acrylic based crochet yarn. Acrylic yarn dries faster than others, meaning you aren’t going to have a sopping dishcloth sitting beside the sink getting moldy.

This yarn type also produces more static electricity than other yarn fabrics. So when I dust a surface with my acrylic yarn dishcloth it picks up more fine debris than my other dusters.

Acrylic yarn is also dead cheap. It is available in any and every yarn or hobby store, and beats the other options on price every time. Synthetic fibers like those found in acrylic yarn are quick to dry out. That’s why this yarn is great for crocheting swimwear.

You can chuck acrylic crochet dishcloths in the washing machine, and they’ll stay the same size when you’ve finished. Though I do give mine a bit of a stretch when I pull them out. And they won’t cope in the tumble drier, you’ll have to hang them on the line like I do!

Acrylic Crochet Dishcloth Uses

Acrylic yarn crochet dishcloths can be used for most kitchen cleaning tasks, and for wiping down bathroom sinks too. I use mine for hand washing plates, cups and bowls in the sink, and most regularly for wiping down the countertop surfaces and table after meals.

Your pots and pans can be cleaned with your acrylic crochet dishcloths, but you’ll want to soak the pans in boiling water first to loosen the residue. I don’t use them on baking trays, most because the grime is just a bit too much and I think that’d ruin even a cotton yarn dishcloth.

I do use my acrylic dishcloths as dusters too, and I’ve heard people say they make good washcloths. The best yarn for washcloth crocheting however is probably cotton. I’m not sold on using acrylic yarn for rubbing on my face, as it’s a little too roughly textured for my preference.

Is Acrylic Yarn Good For Dishcloths Compared With Cotton Yarn?

Cotton yarn for dishcloths is a better media if you want to dry them and put them away immediately. The cotton surface absorbs moisture as you wipe, and you can use two, one for cleaning and one for drying. If you’re using an acrylic dishcloth and want to plate bone dry afterwards then you’ll need a towel too.

Free Crochet Dishcloth Pattern

You can get some really beautiful and complicated crochet dishcloth patterns, but that wasn’t my focus for this one. My creativity in crochet is more for wearables and plushies. When it comes to practical crochet, I’m all about getting the job done fast and making sure it stays that way. No falling apart or faffing about for us!

Row 1

Make a chain of thirty one stitches.

Row 2

Skip the first loop on the chain, then make one single crochet into each stitch of the row.

Row 3 – 33

Chain two as the first single crochet. Make one single crochet into the back loop of each stitch in the row. Don’t miss that final stitch, which will look a little different as it’s a chain space.

At the end of the final row, slip stitch and tie off the yarn. Leave a long tail of yarn, and sew it into the edge of your crochet dishcloth.

Can You Crochet Dishcloths With Acrylic Yarn?

I crochet my dishcloths exclusively from acrylic yarn. The best part about these simple crochet patterns? It doesn’t matter if you muck up a little bit, after all, the only thing that’s going to be examining your work is a dirty mug!

Happy Crocheting,

Lucy Kate, x

The post Can You Use Acrylic Yarn For Dishcloths? appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Using a bigger crochet hook usually uses less yarn. Since the size and density of stitches in crochet is partly determined by hook size, it stands to reason that this will work to save wool. But, it can also have unwanted and unpredictable effects on the gauge and final size of the project.

A bigger crochet hook uses less yarn by length than a smaller crochet hook, to cover the same surface area. But it uses about the same amount by weight. To use a larger hook than a pattern calls for, you will probably need to adjust how many stitches are called for. You might also experience problems with tension, happiness in the fabric, and seams not matching up as they should. Ultimately the material saving will be limited too, so it’s not much use as a money saving hack.

Contents

• Does using a bigger crochet hook use less yarn?
• Measuring yarn: length vs weight
• How much yarn can you save?
• Why I love supersize projects

I love finding thrifty hacks to save money or make materials go further when I’m working on creative projects. It doesn’t usually stop me spending as much at the craft store, but it does at least make my hard earned cash go further!

Does Using A Bigger Crochet Hook Use Less Yarn?

The shortest possible answer to this question is ‘yes, usually’. So you can probably already tell that the answer is not entirely straight forward! Bigger hooks make loser, more open stitches which cover more area, using less yarn in the process. But needle size is not the only thing that determines consumption. Other factors include:

• Tension/gauge
• The type of fiber you’re working with
• The type of stitch you’re using

Measuring Yarn: Length Vs Weight

When you buy a ball of wool, take a look at the wrapper and you’ll find that the quantity is described in two units: length and weight. For example, some fingering yarn for making socks might say 100g/400m/437yds on the wrapper. That’s how much the ball weighs, and the length of it in meters and yards. By contrast, a ball of chunky yarn in my collection says this: 100g 80m/87yds. In other words, it’s shorter, but it weighs the same because it is thicker. No surprises there. But let’s see what this has to do with hook size.

Big hooks are usually reserved for chunky yarns, whilst narrower ones are used for fine fibers. Choosing an appropriate hook size for the yarn you’re working with is important for achieving the correct tension and gauge (ie. number of stitches per square inch). If you use a large hook to work with 4 ply wool, you will use less yarn, but there will be big gaps in your stitches, and it will be harder to make them all appear uniform.

In other words, using a bigger hook only uses less yarn if you bend the rules of how crochet is normally done. They use relatively less yarn if you measure it by length, but when used with a suitable thickness of yarn, they use about the same amount by weight.

Tell Me More About Bending The Rules Anyway

Say you want to make a beanie hat with a 22” circumference (which would fit most adults). The pattern you’ve found calls for a G hook (4.25mm) and DK wool. If you use an H or I and follow the pattern accurately, you will still use about the same amount of yarn, but your hat will be bigger than 22”. It could even fall off when you look down!

To actually use less yarn, you also need to adjust the pattern. Some beanie patterns are given in multiple sizes anyway, so you could try using a larger hook and following the instructions for a smaller size, so the two balance each other out. This is the easiest approach if you’re fairly new to crochet, but the results are not guaranteed to be successful.

Alternatively, if you’re feeling confident, you could make a sample of the main stitch used in the pattern using your bigger hook, and use the dimensions of that swatch to adjust the number of stitches in the headband to secure a proper fit.

But how far can either of these techniques take you? Well, you’re going to have to make a decision:

• Choose a hook which is only slightly bigger than the pattern calls for. Adjusting the pattern so the hat still fits will be easier, but the amount of yarn saved will be negligible.
• Have a go with a much bigger hook. The amount of yarn saved will be greater, but the pattern will need more adjusting. More importantly, you will end up with bigger gaps between your stitches, so your hat will be less warm. It’s also likely that you’ll have difficulty maintaining an even tension.

Is It Worth It?

I think it’s usually not. Trying to save yarn by using a bigger hook involves a lot of mental gymnastics to adapt the pattern, in exchange for very little in actual savings. Crochet patterns which call for big tools and bulky chenilles use fewer yards of fiber, but a similar amount by weight. So choosing these projects won’t save you money overall either. But, don’t throw your big hook down in disgust just yet!

Benefits of Using a Bigger Hook to Crochet

There are lots of things I love about projects that demand big tools!

• They often drape beautifully
• They work up quickly
• A bigger hook can help you avoid working too tightly
• They’re more comfortable to hold
• You’ll be able to see your stitches better

Big hooks make fabrics that drape beautifully

Crochet has always had a reputation for being a bit more rigid and boxy than knitting. And I think one of the reasons it’s seen an increase in popularity recently is that designers are starting to release patterns that do use slightly larger hooks than the weight of yarn traditionally calls for. And the result is a more supple, stretchy, modern fabric. Of course, this goes against everything I said earlier, but when you’ve got years of experience under your belt, that’s when you’re allowed to start bending the rules! And the results have been stunning.

Big tools + big yarn = quick progress

Making stitches on a bigger scale means you’ll finish a granny square, hat, or scarf in fewer stitches. So it’s perfect when you want a quick crafting fix, without committing yourself to weeks of effort. My favorite time to work on jumbo projects is when I need a break from something more long term and complex. Sweaters and blankets are feats of mental and physical stamina as well as craftsmanship. Taking a break in the middle to make something quick gives me a little dose of accomplishment and helps me power on with the rest of a big project.

A bigger hook can help you avoid crocheting too tightly

If your crochet naturally tends towards the tight, and your pre-project swatches always come up small, then working with a bigger hook can counteract that.

They’re more comfortable to hold

Lots of us have problems with dexterity in our hands for one reason or another. In my case, I suffer from chronic chilblains in winter, which causes swelling in my fingers and restricts how tightly I can curl them. When this happens, gripping small needles gets unrealistic, and switching to larger ones means I can keep on crafting. Other people I’ve spoken to say using a larger hook helps reduce cramp, muscle fatigue and joint pain.

You’ll be able to see your stitches better

If you have trouble seeing your stitches, working on a larger scale literally magnifies your work for you, and makes it simpler to keep track of progress. For novice crocheters, working in a smooth, chunky wool makes it easier to see what’s happening at each stage of the process, and also spot mistakes if it starts to go wrong.

Does Using A Bigger Crochet Hook Use Less Yarn? Summary

Do You Like Chunky Projects?

Let us know what you’ve been working on in the comments box down below!

Don’t Miss

• Fixing wonky work
• Mastering tension and gauge
• How soon will you be able to make sweaters?
• Do knitting patterns translate into the same number of crochet stitches?

The post Does Using A Bigger Crochet Hook Use Less Yarn? appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.