How cute is this crochet granny square slipper pattern?! They’re constructed from just six squares each, so they’re perfect for when you fancy making a granny square project, but you haven’t got the time or the will to embark on something big like a blanket. They’ve got a cosy homespun feel which really does feel like a warm hug for your toes, so they’re a fantastic gift too – for someone you love or just for you!

Getting the right size

Since these slippers have a soft sole, they’re a bit like socks when it comes to sizing. In other words, one size will fit several sizes of feet. If you follow this pattern exactly, the slippers will fit roughly ladies’ shoes size 6 – 9 (UK 4 – 7, EU 37 – 40). To make slippers outside of that size range, you’ll need to adapt the size of your granny squares. Don’t let that put you off though, it’s pretty straight forward to do, and I’m going to walk you through it step-by-step.

Basically, the diagonal size of your granny squares needs to be half the circumference of your foot at the widest point. Here’s a worked example of how to measure you feet and calculate the right granny square size for a perfect pair of custom made-to-measure slippers:

• Measure the circumference around the ball of your foot, right above the toes. My feet measure 9” (23cm) around this point.
• Divide that number in half. Which gives me 4½” (11.5cm). This is how big your granny squares need to be from corner to corner.

• It’s not all that intuitive to think about granny squares in terms of their diagonal size, so here’s a handy dandy online calculator for finding out how long the sides will need to be. From it I found out that the sides of my granny squares need to be approximately 3¼” (8.5cm).

My granny square pattern

Here’s the pattern I came up with to make granny squares the right size for my slippers. You can make small adjustments to the size of this pattern by making the 4th round in single crochet (for a smaller square) or double crochet (for a larger square). Or you can come up with your own design for a granny square the right size, and meet me again at the assembly stage!

Remember, you’ll need 12 squares in total – 6 per slipper. I used aran weight yarns in pink, off-white, gray marl, and brown. Rather than using the size H-8 (5mm) hook suggested by the wrapper, I opted for a size G-6 (4.5mm) hook. Your slippers will hold their shape better if the tension is sturdy – since I tend to crochet on the loose side I’ve sized down to

Round 1

Start however you like to start your granny squares – with a magic circle, or with four chain stitches joined in a loop with a slip stitch.

• Ch 3, dc 7, sl st into top of ch 3 to join.

Cut your yarn and weave in the ends.

Round 2

Join your next yarn color. This round consists of 8 cluster stitches of four double crochets, and the first one is worked a little bit differently to the rest.

For the first stitch:

1. Ch 3 – this creates the height you need to complete the round, and also counts as the first double crochet in the cluster.
2. Yarn over hook.
3. Insert hook into the same space you made the slip stitch join into.
4. Yarn over and pull through a loop (3 loops on hook).
5. Yarn over and draw through two loops (2 loops on hook).
6. Repeat steps 2 – 5 twice more (4 loops on hook – below left).
7. Yarn over and draw through all four loops (below center).
8. Ch 2 (below right).

For the rest of the stitches:

1. Yarn over hook.
2. Insert hook into the next space from round 1.
3. Yarn over and pull through a loop (3 loops on hook).
4. Yarn over and draw through two loops (2 loops on hook).
5. Repeat steps 1 – 4 three times (5 loops on hook – below left).
6. Yarn over and draw through all five loops (below center).
7. Chain 2 (below right).

After the last cluster stitch, chain 2 and join to the top of the first cluster stitch with a slip stitch. NOTE: The top of the stitch is the first chain you made to close the cluster, not the top of the ch 3. Cut the yarn, and weave in the ends.

* Only if you’re using half-double crochet for this round. If you’re using single or double crochet to modify the size of your square, work into every stitch of each side.

Cut your yarn, weave in the ends, and block your square. Make 11 more squares.

Crochet granny square slipper pattern: assembling stage

Squares made, it’s time to think about how you’re going to join them together. Here’s an illustration of how the squares are going to be pieced together:

I’ve labeled the corresponding sides, so 1a joins to 1a, and so on. Joins 1a and 1b can be made one after the other with without cutting the yarn in between. Joins 2a – 2d can also be made in one go, and likewise joins 3a – 3d.

Let’s start with the first join, along seams 1a and 1b.

I joined my granny squares mine using single crochet stitches – hold the squares right sides together, and insert the hook through the front and back loops of both squares. It’s a chunky join, which I love because it makes an aesthetic nod to moccasins. But I can feel the seams under my feet a bit, an if the thought of that puts you off, you could join your squares with a flat mattress stitch or whip stitch instead.

Adding the back of the heel

The next step is adding the back of the heel. Here’s a map for joining that square:

• When you get to corner A, place two stitches in the corner space of the heel square – one for each of the other squares.
• When you get to corner B, use three stitches to join the corner spaces, like this:

• The final edge between corner B and the arrow head joins to the edge marked by the star – make sure the wrong sides of your squares are facing each other!
• Treat corner B the same as corner A – make two stitches in the corner space of the heel square, one for each of the other squares.

Adding the last square

The sixth square sits on top of the foot.

If you fold in the side squares now, you can see now how that top square is going to join along all four edges.

• Start at the top corner that’s going to sit above the arch of the foot, and work along the first edge (I prefer to move clockwise, but it’s not important).
• In the next corner space make two stitches – one into the square that folds around the the side of the foot, and one into the square at the front of the sole.
• In the corner which forms the toe point, make three stitches into the corner space.
• And in the last corner space make two stitches – one into the square at the front of the sole and one into the square that folds around the the side of the foot.

When you get back to the corner you started in, don’t cut the yarn – you can dive straight into making the edging around the opening with it.

Adding a picot edging

This slipper is really starting to come together! Let’s add a picot edging around the opening, to give that edge a more polished look and tie it in with the seams. The edge is made in two rows, in a counter-clockwise direction. The direction is important to ensure to the little picot bobbles pop outwards, not inwards!

• The first row is straight forward single crochet all the way round the edge.
• The second row is a simple picot border based on a two-stitch repeat: sl st, dc. The short slip stitches push the tall double crochets outwards, making an attractive bobble edge.

Finish row two on a slip stitch, cut the yarn, and weave in all the ends from joining your squares.

Pompoms

The finishing touch on my slippers are some cute little pompoms. Not only do they look the part, they’re perfect for hiding the seam joins on the front of your slipper. Also if you’ve never made little pompoms on a fork before, prepare to discover a new crafting addiction!

• Cut a 4” piece of yarn and hold it between the second and third tines of a fork (top left above).
• Wrap yarn from the ball 20 – 30 times around all four tines.
• Cut the yarn, and use the 4” piece to make an overhand knot around the center of your pom pom (top right above).
• Poke the ends through to the other side of the fork, and tie two or three more knots to fully secure the center of the pompom (bottom left above).
• Slip the pompom off the fork and carefully cut all the loops so your pompom opens out. Trim it into shape, and repeat the steps to make a second.
• Make a chain of 12 stitches, and ties your pompoms to the ends (bottom right above).

Finally, use a short length of yarn to tie your pompoms to the front of your slipper.

Now make another one!

Repeat the whole process to make a second slipper, and then put them on and wear them with pride! Or in my case, notice them sneaking out of the room on the feet of my daughter. Luckily this quick and fun pattern is easy to make again and again! I hope you enjoy making it too.

The post Crochet Granny Square Slipper Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

In this article I am going to share with you crochet basket patterns for making your own stacking crochet basket collection. They use single crochet stitches, built from a central magic ring. And a funky handle to finish it off.

[wp_ad_camp_5]These baskets can be made as a set, or individually.

They are designed primarily to be displayed, but can be used for practical purposes too. I use mine for storing crochet items in my office!

I was really please with how they turned out, and I hope that you will be with yours as well.

Crochet Basket Equipment

Each of the patterns below will require the following.

• Size H / 5mm crochet hook (preferably with soft grip)
• yarn needle
• sharp scissors
• 2 x 100g (or 4 x 50g) balls of 100% wool beige yarn
• 2 x 100g (or 4 x 50g) balls of 100% wool pale blue yarn

For the baskets shown in the photographs, I used DMC Wooly Merino Wool in Light Blue and Light Orange.

As you can probably see, ‘light orange’ is not really an accurate description of this colour.

If you wanted to order some online, you will find that it arrives as a pale natural beige shade.

Just perfect for a basket!

Crochet Basket Pattern Notes:

Each pattern will require you to work with two strands of yarn at the same time. This gives the solid structure and strength required to the basket as it is formed.

Basically, using two strands is what stops the sides from flopping over.

To make all three baskets you will need approximately 200g of neutral wool yarn and 200g of blue wool yarn as shown above.

If you are making just one of the baskets you will get away with buying 100g of wool in each colour, however remember that the patterns require two threads of yarn to be used simultaneously for each pattern.

So don’t buy a 100g ball, buy two 50g balls of the same colour.

Stitch markers are pretty much essential for these patterns.

If you don’t have any stitch markers at home and you want to get started now, then cut a small section of differently coloured yarn.

At the start of each row use your crochet hook to pull the yarn into the first stitch. Leave it hanging through this stitch as you work the rest of the round. You will then be certain when you reach the end of the row, to begin the next one at the correct point and avoid losing count.

At the end of each row I will give the stitch count in brackets, so if you lose your place simply count the total stitches in the previous row to get back on track.

Small Crochet Basket

Work the small crochet basket pattern as a continuous spiral.

At the end of each row, mark your last stitch with a stitch marker.

This will help you make sure that you don’t lose count as you progress onto rows with larger stitch counts.

To assist you in keeping on track, I have also put the total stitches in the row in brackets at the end of each instruction.

Begin using your 5mm hook, working in the beige merino wool yarn.

Use two strands of yarn at the same time, from two separate balls of wool.

Row 1 – Make a magic circle of 8 single crochet stitches.  (8)

Row 2 – Put 2 single crochets (2sc) into each stitch. (16)

Row 3 – Make 1sc in the first stitch, and 2sc in the next. Repeat for the length of the round. A total of 8 x ( 1sc, 2sc ). (24)

To increase your circle you will follow the same pattern, increasing your single crochet stitches by one each time.

Row 4 – 8 x ( 1sc x 2, 2sc ). (32)

Row 5 – 8 x ( 1sc x 3, 2sc). (40)

Row 6 – Working into the back loop of your previous row of stitches only, make 1sc into each stitch for the length of the round. (40)

Row 7 – Working into the full stitch again, *make 1 sc into each stitch.

Row 8 to 11 – Repeat from *. (40)

Row 12 – Make 1sc into each stitch until the final stitch of the round. In this stitch make 1sc, colour changing to two strands of your blue shade of yarn in this stitch.

Row 13 to 15 – Repeat from *. (40)

Row 16 – Make 1sc in each stitch until the final stitch of the round. In the final stitch make 1sc, colour changing to your neutral yarn shade.

Row 17 to 19 – Repeat from *. (40)

Row 20 – Put 1 sc in the first 7 stitches, ch7, skip 5 stitches, put 1sc in the next 15 stitches, ch7, skip 5 stitches, then put 1sc in the next 7 stitches.  In the final 1sc of the round, colour change back to blue.

Row 21 – Make 1sc into each stitch, including through the chain handles.

At the end of the row, slip stitch into the next stitch. Attach your yarn, then cut off the tail. Sew the loose end into the basket.

Medium Crochet Basket

The finished medium crochet basket has a similar finished look to the small basket.

However it is compiled using a different crochet method and the handles are slightly thicker and wider, giving more support to the basket and being a little easier to use.

Begin this pattern using your neutral colour of yarn.

Use two strands of yarn at the same time, from two separate balls of wool.

We will be building up row by row, and not working in a continuous spiral as previously.

Row 1 – Make a chain of 4 stitches. Slip stitch through the first loop to join. Ch2, then put 7 sc into the center of the loop. (8)

Row 2 – Ch2, put 1sc into the first stitch. Then put 2sc into each subsequent stitch. (16)

Row 3 – Ch2, put 2sc in the next stitch. *1sc in the next stitch, 2sc in the following. Repeat from * for the rest of the round. (24)

Row 4 – Ch2, make 1sc in the next stitch, then 2sc. *1sc x 2,  then 2sc. Repeat from * for the remainder of the round. (32)

Row 5 – Ch2, make 1sc in the next 2 stitches, then 2sc. *1sc x 3,  then 2sc. Repeat from * for the remainder of the round. (40)

Row 6 – Ch2, make 1sc in the next 3 stitches, then 2sc. *1sc x 4,  then 2sc. Repeat from * for the remainder of the round. (48)

Row 7 – Ch2, then working into the back loop of your previous row of stitches only, make 1sc into each stitch for the length of the round. (48)

[wp_ad_camp_2]Row 8 – Working into the full stitch again, *make 1 sc into each stitch. (48)

Row 9 to 14 – Repeat from * (48)

Row 15 – Make 1sc into each stitch until the final stitch of the round. In this stitch make 1sc, colour changing to your blue shade of yarn in this stitch. (48)

Row 16 to 18 – Repeat from * (48)

Row 19 – Make 1sc into each stitch until the final stitch of the round. In this stitch make 1sc, colour changing to your neutral shade of yarn in this stitch. (48)

Row 20 – Make 1sc into each stitch until the final stitch of the round. In this stitch make 1sc, colour changing to your blue shade of yarn in this stitch. (48)

Row 21 to 22 – Repeat from * (48)

Row 23 – Make 1sc into each stitch until the final stitch of the round.

In this stitch make 1sc, colour changing to your neutral shade of yarn in this stitch. (48)

Row 24 – Make 1sc in the first 8 stitches. Chain 10. Skip the next 7 stitches. Make 1sc into the next 17 stitches. Chain 10, and skip the next 8 stitches.

Row 25 – Make 1sc into each stitch of the round. In the final stitch of the row, make 1sc but colour chain to the blue yarn.

Row 26 – Put 1sc in to each stitch. At the end of the row slip stitch into the next stitch, attach your yarn, and cut off a long tail to sew in.

When you have finished your basket, you will need to weave your ends into the body of the basket.

Large Crochet Basket

The large crochet basket is constructed using both of the previous methods of building up the body.

It begins in a continuous spiral for the base.

Upon completion of the bottom section of the crochet basket, you will move on to using the row by row technique.

This basket has a different handle to the previous baskets too, with a large supporting handle made seperately and attached over the top instead of two small built in handles.

Large Crochet Basket Body

Begin the large crochet basket pattern in your pale yarn, using your 5mm crochet hook. Use two strands of yarn at the same time, from two separate balls of wool.

Row 1 – Make a magic circle of 8 single crochet stitches. (8)

Row 2 – Working in a continuous spiral, make 2sc in each stitch to the end of the row. (16)

Row 3 – Put 1sc into the first stitch, then 2sc into the next. Repeat (sc x 1, 2sc) for the length of the row. (24)

Row 4 – Put 1sc into the first two stitches, then 2sc into the next. Repeat (sc x 2, 2sc) for the length of the row. (32)

Row 5 – Put 1sc into the first three stitches, then 2sc into the next. Repeat (sc x 3, 2sc) for the length of the row. (40)

Row 6 – Put 1sc into the first four stitches, then 2sc into the next. Repeat (sc x 4, 2sc) for the length of the row. (48)

Row 7 – Put 1sc into the first five stitches, then 2sc into the next. Repeat (sc x 5, 2sc) for the length of the row. (56)

Row 8 – Put 1sc into the first six stitches, then 2sc into the next. Repeat (sc x 6, 2sc) for the length of the row. (64)

Row 9 – Put 1sc into the first seven stitches, then 2sc into the next. Repeat (sc x 7, 2sc) for the length of the row. (72)

Row 10 – Put 1sc into the first eight stitches, then 2sc into the next. Repeat (sc x 8, 2sc) for the length of the row. (80)

Row 11 – In the next row, continue in a spiral putting 1sc into the back loop only of each stitch. (80)

At the end of the round slip stitch into the next stitch, attach your yarn and cut off. Leaving a long enough tail for weaving in later.

You will no longer be working in a continuous spiral, but instead building up the levels layer by layer. This is slightly more time consuming but gives you consistant rings at the colour changes, and a more level top of the basket when you have finished.

Use two strands of your blue yarn to continue.

Row 12 – Attach your yarn at any point on the previous row of stitches. *Ch2, then make 1sc into each stitch in the row. At the end of the row slip stitch into the top of your chain 2. (80)

Row 13 to 19 – Repeat from *. (80)

Row 20 – Ch2, then make 1sc into each stitch. At the end of the row use your slip stitch into the top of the chain to colour change to your pale yarn.

Remember to pick up two strands again to continue. (80)

Row 21 to 22 – Repeat from *.  (80)

Row 23 – Ch2. Make 1sc in to each each of the round. At the end of the row use your slip stitch into the top of the chain to colour change to your blue yarn. (80)

Row 24 – Ch2, then make 1sc into the front loop only of each stitch. (80)

Row 25 – Ch2, then make 1sc into both loops of each stitch in the row. At the end of the round slip stitch into the top of your ch2. (80)

Row 26 – Ch2, then make 1sc into each stitch of the previous row. To finish slip stitch into the top of the starting chain, attach your yarn then cut off a tail. (80)

Large Crochet Basket Handle

Your large crochet basket’s handle will be made as a separate piece.

Begin by using your 5mm crochet hook and neutral shade of yarn.

Row 1

Begin by making a chain of 47 stitches (45 + 2)

Make 1sc into the 3rd chain from the hook. Make 1sc into each chain link down the side of the chain. Into the beginning chain make 3sc. Make 1sc into each side of the other side of your chain. Into the stitch you began with make 1 more sc.

Your chain should now have 3sc in each end, and 1sc in each side. Forming a very long oval shape.

Attach the yarn and cut off a very long tail. This is what you will use to attach the handle to the basket.

Start the next round with two strands of your light blue yarn.

Row 2

Attach your yarn at the opposite end of the handle to the one you finished at previously. Chain 2. Make 1sc into the stitch you just attached into.

1sc into each stitch for the length of the handle, 3sc into the other end end stitch (top of your previous starting chain) then 1sc into each remaining stitch.

Finally make 1 more sc into the stitch you began the row with.

Attach the yarn and cut off, leaving a long tail.

Completing the Large Crochet Basket

Take your yarn needle and sew the ends of the handle to opposite diameter points of your basket.

Weave the neutral shaded yarn tail through the middle of the handle through the matching coloured stitches. Weave the blue shaded yarn through the outer parts of the handle, into the matching colour stitches. This will disguise your attachment points.

Finally weave in the loose tails from your colour changes and ends of rounds.

Crochet Basket Patterns

When making your own crochet baskets you can follow all three of the crochet basket patterns above exactly, or pick and choose your favourite.

Try playing around with the colours to create something unique, or to match the room in your house where they will be proudly displayed.

I hope you enjoy these patterns as much as I have.

Happy Crocheting! x

The post Crochet Basket: Stacking Crochet Basket Patterns appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.