pillow Archives - Lucy Kate Crochet

Moss Stitch Crochet Tutorial And Pillow Pattern

Lucy Kate — Fri, 17 Apr 2026 09:43:36 +0000

If you’ve not tried crochet moss stitch before, you are going to love it. It’s one of those easy stitches that is actually beginner friendly. All you need to know to crochet moss stitches is the chain and single crochet. Yet the finished fabric is one that looks really detailed, especially if you make good use of your colors.

I’ll start with a quick explanation of how to crochet moss stitch, and then we’ll dive straight into the pillow pattern. Or if you would like a different moss stitch pattern, pop over to my beach bag here!

How To Crochet Moss Stitch

Moss stitch is worked as a paired repeat, using single crochets (sc), chains (ch) and skips (sk).

You will begin by making a train with an even number of stitches.

For the first row you’ll skip the first three loops, then make a single crochet and chain one. After each single crochet and chain one pair, you will skip the next stitch and work the same pairing into the following stitch.

For every subsequent row, you’ll make a ch2, then single crochet and chain one into each chain space from the previous row, until the final stitch where you will make 1sc.

And it really is that simple!

Moss Stitch Crochet Pillow Pattern

This pattern is crocheted as two separate sides, which you will hand sew together when you’ve finished.

What You’ll Need

5.5mm crochet hook
300g chunky yellow yarn
300g chunky cream yarn
Yarn needle
Cushion filler or toy safe stuffing

I used Bernat Maker yarn for my cushion, it’s 75% cotton and 25% nylon. If you use a plush yarn you might find you need to use a cushion pad rather than stuffing as it won’t give quite such closer stitches.

The Stitches

ch – chain
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
cc – color change

Side 1 – thin stripes

Row 1

ch74

Row 2

sk3, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a sc into the last chain

Row 3 – 5

ch2, then sc, ch1 into each chain space of the row, until the last stitch where you will make 1sc

cc yellow

Row 6

ch2, then sc, ch1 into each chain space of the row, until the last stitch where you will make 1sc

cc cream

Row 7 – 11

ch2, then sc, ch1 into each chain space of the row, until the last stitch where you will make 1sc

cc yellow

Row 12

ch2, then sc, ch1 into each chain space of the row, until the last stitch where you will make 1sc

Row 13 – 77

Repeat rows 7 – 12.

Side 2 – thick stripes

Row 1

ch74

Row 2

sk3, *(sc, ch1, sk1) Repeat from * then make a sc into the last chain

Row 3 – 5

ch2, then sc, ch1 into each chain space of the row, until the last stitch where you will make 1sc

cc yellow

Row 6 – 9

ch2, then sc, ch1 into each chain space of the row, until the last stitch where you will make 1sc

cc cream

Row 10 – 13

ch2, then sc, ch1 into each chain space of the row, until the last stitch where you will make 1sc

cc yellow

Row 14 – 76

Repeat rows 6 – 15

Tidying Up

Using your yarn needle, sew in the loose ends

Joining Together and Stuffing

Lay the two sides down, one on top of the other. You can now work around the edges, sewing using your yarn needle and cream colored yarn. Weave in and out each of the outside stitches. When you have sewn all but half of one side, fill the pillow with stuffing, then finish sewing to close.

The post Moss Stitch Crochet Tutorial And Pillow Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

How To Front Loop Only Crochet (And Make A Stunning Throw Pillow)

Lucy Kate — Fri, 27 Mar 2026 12:31:41 +0000

A few months ago I was teaching a friend to crochet, and they were getting very frustrated with the appearance of their stitches. It didn’t look bad, it just looked different to the pictures they were trying to follow.

And that was because they were doing a crochet technique, just not the one that the pattern had dictated. What they were doing was crocheting, but just into the front loop only instead of the full stitch.

I tell you this story because it’s fabulous news for anyone who is new to crochet, that front loop only crochet is so simple that you can do it entirely by accident.

So let’s begin by taking a look at how to do it on purpose. And then I’ll show you how to practice while you make this cozy and stylish pillow!

Where to Hook

When you make a standard crochet stitch, you work your hook under and through the set of two loops at the top of the stitch you made in the previous round or row. With front loop only (often abbreviated to FLO) you work only into the loop nearest to you.

Let’s practice.

FLO Sample

Make a chain of about ten loops, then make a single crochet into each stitch.

Turn and hold the crocheted fabric so that you can see the top edge of the stitches. You’ll see each stitch has two upper loops, one nearer to you and another further away.

The loop nearest to you is the front loop.

To crochet into the front loop, insert your hook underneath it and out of the center of the stitch, as shown by the arrows in the image here:

This stitch creates a very similar appearance to a standard crochet stitch, but with an extra line across the crocheted material which is left by the loops that were not worked into.

And it’s really that simple.

Front Loop Only Crochet Pillow Pattern

So now let’s practice working into the front and back loops, with a crochet pillow pattern I created recently. It will really highlight how different these stitches are, and keep your interest as you switch back and forth.

What you’ll need

5mm crochet hook
100g cream DK yarn
50g dark pink DK yarn
50g light pink DK yarn
50g white DK yarn
50g oat DK yarn
50g brown DK yarn
30 inch cushion pad
Yarn needle

The Stitches

ch – chain
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
FLO – front loop only
BLO – back loop only
cc – change color

The front panel is just front loop only, so we’ll start there.

Front Panel

Begin in your dark pink yarn.

Row 1

ch52

ch1, 1sc FLO x 50

cc cream

Row 38 – 39

ch2, 1dc FLO x 50

Back Panel

Begin in the oat yarn

Row 1

ch52

ch2, 1dc BLO x 50

Joining the Sides

You’ll notice the back panel has a lot more rows than the front. This is because the back loop only stitches create texture by sticking forward in ridges. To maintain these ridges rather than pull the fabric flat, you therefore need more rows.

Lay them together and sew around the edges using your yarn needle and cream yarn. Sew three sides, then insert the cushion pad and then sew the final side.

I recommend that you compress the pad with your hands and make sure to even out the filling beforehand, as they can be a little uneven otherwise.

Do not sew row by row, because your stitches on each side are different heights. If you find this hard to do by eye, use stitch markers to join it together before you begin.

The post How To Front Loop Only Crochet (And Make A Stunning Throw Pillow) appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Third Loop Crochet with a Free Camel Stitch Pillow Pattern

Lucy Kate — Thu, 19 Mar 2026 14:01:46 +0000

Half double crochet stitches have something a bit special about their structure. The third loop of the stitch stands in a horizontal position at the back of the stitch, and when you work into it in your next row, it creates a lovely textured stitch that adds warmth and definition to your half double crochet projects.

This stitch is known as camel stitch, and you can make it even more pronounced by working alternate rows into the back loop only to raise the profile of the third loop stitch.

Confused? You won’t be soon!

I am going to run through the easy way to find that elusive third loop, and give you a pattern that is the perfect way to practice it, whilst creating something gorgeous to add to your living room decor.

Finding The Third Loop

Crocheting into the third loop can only be done when you have an existing half double crochet to work into.

In the example below I made a chain, then worked a row of half double crochets into that chain.

I’ve then turned the fabric, and I have made the first stitch of the row into the third loop of the stitch. The top image shows where I placed my hook for this first third loop crochet of the row, and beneath it the image shows the locations of the next few third loop placements, marked by needles.

The Stitches

To create a camel stitch you’ll need to be familiar with the following terms and techniques:

ch – chain
sk – skip
hdc – half double crochet
third loop only
back loop only

Third Loop Crocheting in Rows

Let’s make up a little sample to practice.

First make a chain of 12 stitches.
Now, skip the first two stitches and make a half double crochet (hdc) into each loop of the chain. To half double crochet you are going to yarn over, insert the hook through the stitch, yarn over again and pull the hook back through the stitch. You now have three loops on the hook. Yarn over once more, and pull through all three loops on the hook.
Ch2, then make 1hdc into the third loop of every stitch of the row
Ch2, make 1hdc into the back loop only of every stitch. This row will give definition to your third loops.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until you have a sample that is at least ten rows long to give you a change to practice your stitches

Camel Stitch Crochet Pillow Pattern

To create this pillow I used two skeins of white chunky yarn and one skein of variegated yellow, white and grey chunky yarn, with a 6mm crochet hook. You’ll also need a 30 inch cushion pad or some stuffing, and a yarn needle.

This is a two sided pattern, one side was made in one piece, the other I hand sewed together four panels.

Front Panel

The front panel was made in two stages. The first was worked as rows of camel stitch, made in the variegated yarn.

Row 1

ch42

Row 2

sk2, hdc x 40

Row 3

ch2, hdc into the third loop only x 40

Row 4

ch2, hdc into the back loop only

Row 5 – 28

Repeat rows 3 and 4

Row 29

ch2, hdc into the back loop only

The Border

You are now going to finish this side of the pillow by crocheting around the camel stitch section using standard half double crochets. Work this section in your white chunky yarn.

Round 1 – 5

Begin in a corner. Make 3hdc into each corner, and 1hdc into each edge stitch around the square of camel stitch.

Back Panel

I made this section in four parts. Create two with your white yarn and two with the variegated yarn.

Row 1

ch32

Row 2

sk2, hdc x 30

Row 3

ch2, hdc into the third loop only x 30

Row 4

ch2, hdc into the back loop only

Row 5 – 22

Repeat rows 3 and 4

Blocking

My cats were very keen to join in with the blocking process

I highly recommend blocking your sections before you sew them, because these stitches do have a tendency to curl especially at the edges.

I chose to iron these pieces down rather than to pin them on a blocking board, because it’s quicker and I am familiar with the yarn and confident that it can stand up to the heat!

Joining The Pillow

I began by sewing together these four panels. As you can see I angled them each with the camel stitches pointing in a different direction before I thought it gave it more of a patchwork feel.

Once they were joined, I placed the front and back panel with the front sides facing away from each other. I pinned them together with a stitch marker at each corner, and sewing down the edges. Leave one edge open to insert the pad before finally closing.

The post Third Loop Crochet with a Free Camel Stitch Pillow Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Front Post Double Crochet – Tutorial and Free Pillow Pattern

Lucy Kate — Thu, 19 Mar 2026 13:38:23 +0000

Double crochets are one of the very first crochet stitches that any beginner crocheter learns. You spend ages working that hook through those top two loops, getting your tension just so, and creating neat stitches you can be proud of. Then you read ‘FPDC’ in a pattern. Front Post Double Crochet. And you have no idea where to put your hook anymore.

Don’t let it throw you, because it’s actually quite simple once you understand how and where your stitches can be made.

I’m going to walk you through making a front post double crochet, and then to help you practice, I’ll share my absolute favorite crochet pillow pattern. Which you might be a little bit pleased to hear, came into existence due to me getting confused about yet another crochet technique – the alpine stitch. But more on that in a moment!

How To Make A Front Post Double Crochet

Traditionally, crochet stitches are worked into the top of the stitch. The two most prominent loops from the stitches of the previous round. Front post crochet works into the front of the stitch from the previous row, around the long body of the stitch.

This image shows a needle marking where I am going to insert my hook to make the front post double crochet.

Let’s practice by making a little sample.

ch – chain
sk – skip
dc – double crochet
fpdc – front post double crochet

Row 1

chain 14

Row 2

sk2, dc x 12

Row 3

ch2, *(fpdc x 1, dc x 1). Repeat from * until the end of the row.

Row 4

ch2, 1dc x 12

Row 5 – 10

Repeat rows 3 and 4

Dropped Front Post Crochet Pillow Pattern

This pillow pattern is going to use a front post crochet, but instead of working it into the stitch from the previous round, you are going to jump down to the row below that. This is a great way to continue practicing the front post double crochet, because it helps you to really understand where the body of each stitch lies.

What You’ll Need

300g variegated chunky yarn
6mm crochet hook
30inch pillow pad
yarn needle

The Pillow Pattern

This pillow is worked in one long strip, which you will fold and then sew down the final three sides to join. For those who aren’t such big fans of hand sewing, it will have a very similar effect if you decide to crochet the sides together instead.

Row 1

ch61

Row 2

sk2, 1dc x 59

Row 3

ch1, 1sc x 59

Row 4

ch2, dc into first stitch, sk the next sc, instead making a fpdc into the dc stitch two rows down. dc into the next sc. *sk, fpdc into the next but one dc two rows below, dc into the next stitch. Repeat from * until the end of the row.

Row 5

ch1, 1sc in every stitch of the row

Row 6

ch2, dc in every stitch of the row

Row 7

ch1, 1sc in every stitch of the row

Row 8 – 69

Repeat rows 4 – 7

Sewing Your Cushion Together

Lay out the strip of crocheted fabric. Fold it on half and using your yarn needle sew down two of the sides.

Insert the cushion pad, and then sew down the final side.

The post Front Post Double Crochet – Tutorial and Free Pillow Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Crochet Flower Pillow

Lucy Kate — Tue, 10 Mar 2026 13:24:18 +0000

I have been making a lot of more traditional crochet cushions recently, but I wanted to try something a bit different with this crochet flower pillow. It’s not just covered with flowers, it IS a flower.

And when I’d finished, I realised I could add a really cute twist. So I gave it a face, which we’ll make separately so that if you just want the plain flower throw pillow that you don’t have to add it on.

The Stitches

This pattern is worked in the round in separate sections, with a small amount of hand sewing to attach them together and give your flower a cute little face if you want to!

Kit List

4 x 100g skeins of chunky blue yarn
2 x 16mm diameter safety eyes
2 x 100g skeins of chunky yellow yarn
6mm crochet hook
Yarn needle
Scissors
Toy safe stuffing

Central Section

I worked this pattern from the middle outwards, so that’s where we’ll begin. Use your yellow yarn for this part, and make sure to keep your stitches nice and tight as you decrease – it’s often a problem area.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of 8 stitches

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 4

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 5

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 8 (40)

Round 6

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 8 (48)

Round 7

(1sc x 5, 2sc) x 8 (56)

Round 8

(1sc x 6, 2xc) x 8 (64)

Round 9 – 10

1sc x 64

Round 11

(1sc x 7, 2sc) x 8 (72)

Round 12 – 15

1sc x 72

Round 16

(1sc x 7, sc2tog) x 8 (64)

Round 17 – 18

1sc x 64

Round 19

(1sc x 6, sc2tog) x 8 (56)

Round 20

(1sc x 5, sc2tog) x 8 (48)

Round 21

(1sc x 4, sc2tog) x 8 (40)

Round 22

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 8 (32)

Round 23

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 8 (24)

Round 24

(1sc, sc2tog) x 8 (16)

Fill with stuffing

Round 25

sc2tog x 8

Now sew closed.

Petals – Make 8

Round 1

Magic circle of 8 stitches

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 4

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 5 – 9

1sc x 32

Round 10

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 8 (40)

Round 11 – 12

1sc x 40

Round 13

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 8 (48)

Round 14 – 16

1sc x 48

Round 17

(1sc x 5, 2sc) x 8 (56)

Round 18

1sc x 56

Round 19

(1sc x 5, sc2tog) x 8 (48)

Round 20

1sc x 48

Round 21

(1sc x 4, sc2tog) x 8 (40)

Round 22

1sc x 40

Round 23

(1sc x 3, sc2tog) x 8 (32)

Round 24

(1sc x 2, sc2tog) x 8 (24)

Round 25

(1sc, sc2tog) x 8 (16)

Round 26

sc2tog x 8

then sew to close

Sewing the Cushion Together

Lay out all the pieces in front of you, and one by one sew the base of each petal to the central section. Take really good care here to make sure that they are all level, and use stitch markers to guide you if you are finding this tricky.

The sewing will get more fiddly as you go, because you will have less space to move your needle. So take your time!

The Flower’s Face

To crochet the face you will need to work in the round using your yellow yarn.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of 8 stitches

Round 2

2sc x 8 (16)

Round 3

(1sc, 2sc) x 8 (24)

Round 4

(1sc x 2, 2sc) x 8 (32)

Round 5

(1sc x 3, 2sc) x 8 (40)

Round 6

(1sc x 4, 2sc) x 8 (48)

Round 7

(1sc x 5, 2sc) x 8 (56)

Round 8

(1sc x 6, 2xc) x 8 (64)

Round 9

(1sc x 7, 2sc) x 8 (72)

Now you can hide the loose end, and attach safety eyes about eight stitches apart at round three/four level. Sew in little eye markings with some chunky white yarn, and use a scrap of gray or black yarn to sew the mouth.

You can now sew this panel onto your middle section. I recommend attaching it at the back, as due to the decreases this is always slightly less neat than the front!

The post Crochet Flower Pillow appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

How To Crochet Alpine Stitch (With Free Pillow Pattern)

Lucy Kate — Sat, 28 Feb 2026 19:54:47 +0000

I am a big fan of crocheting with the alpine stitch now, but the first few times I tried it, this stitch went seriously wrong. I hope that with the detailed steps below, and important bullet pointed notes, you’ll avoid the pitfalls I slipped into on my first few tries.

Once you’ve got the hang of these simple steps, just scroll down the page to find my free crochet alpine stitch throw pillow pattern. It’s a really fun one and works up faster than you’d think.

Things To Remember

This is a repetitive stitch that is worked in sets of four, and involves working into the front posts of stitches that are two rows below your current working row. It differs from other stitches in a few ways that you need to keep in mind whilst working on it:

Your first stitch always goes into the base of the starting chain. The chain is not the first stitch of the row.
The front post stitches are made into every other dc, two rows below your current row.

Alpine Stitch In Simple Steps

The alpine stitch is a beautiful technique that has a lot of people, understandably, scratching their heads. I think it’s one of those techniques that is best practiced in small samples, to make sure you are following it correctly before moving onto a bigger project.

Row 1

Make a chain with an odd number of stitches + 2. My example is a chain of 17.

Row 2

sk2, then 1dc for the length of the row

Row 3

ch1, 1sc into each stitch

Row 4

Row 5

ch1, 1sc in every stitch of the row

Row 6

ch2, dc x 2, then sk the next stitch and fpdc around the dc two rows down between the raised stitches. *dc into the next stitch, sk1 and fpdc two rows below in the same manner. Repeat from * for the rest of the round, ending with dc x 2.

Row 7 onwards

Work as a four row repeat, repeating rows 3 – 6 as many times as your project requires.

My Alpine Stitch Throw Pillow Pattern

To make this cushion I used:

150g yellow DK cotton blend yarn
150g orange DK cotton blend yarn
150g black DK cotton blend yarn
4mm crochet hook
30 x 30 inch cushion pad
Yarn needle

Begin working with your yellow yarn.

Row 1

ch61

Row 2

sk2, 1dc x 59

Row 3

ch1, 1sc x 59

Row 4

Row 5

Repeat repeating rows 3 – 6

Row 142

ch1, sc in every stitch of the row

Joining

Fold your crocheted fabric in half, and using a yarn needle and your yellow yarn sew down two sides. Insert your pillow, and sew down the final side to close.

The post How To Crochet Alpine Stitch (With Free Pillow Pattern) appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Waffle Stitch Crochet Tutorial & Free Pillow Pattern

Lucy Kate — Thu, 19 Feb 2026 16:57:05 +0000

Of all the intermediate to advanced stitches, the crochet waffle stitch is right up there with my favorites. It’s got amazing texture to it, which creates some stunning blankets. So recently I thought, why not use it for my current throw pillow project too!

Today I’ll walk you through crocheting the waffle stitch in simple steps, and then share my lastest home decor pattern that fully embraces this stunning stitch.

How To Crochet Waffle Stitch

Let’s begin with a short tutorial, showing how to make the waffle stitch in simple steps. But before we get into it, you need to make sure you are familiar with the stitches we’ll be using to crochet a waffle.

The Stitches

The waffle stitch is a combination of double crochet, front post double crochets and chains.

So to create a waffle stitch you need to be familiar with making front post double crochets. This stitch is exactly the same as a standard double crochet, but instead of working through the top of the next stitch, you need to insert the hook around the body of the stitch instead, from front to back to front.

Waffle stitch crochet tutorial

Waffle stitches break down into steps really nicely.

Foundation Row

Make a chain that is a multiple of 3 + 2.

Row 1

sk2, 1dc in every stitch of the row

Row 2

*1fpdc, 1dc x 2. Repeat from * until the end of the row and make 1fpdc into the final stitch.

Row 3

Ch2, *1fpdc x 2, 1dc. Repeat from * until the end of the row.

Row 4 onwards

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until the desired length is achieved.

Waffle Stitch Crochet Throw Pillow Pattern

I am so pleased with how this throw pillow has turned out. The texture of waffle stitch is famously thick and fabulous, but even so I was still thrilled with how it feels and how sturdy it seems.

To make this pattern you will need

100g light blue DK cotton blend yarn
100g yellow DK cotton blend yarn
100g dark blue DK cotton blend yarn
3.5mm crochet hook
30 x 30 inch cushion pad

The Front

Begin with your dark blue yarn

Row 1

ch62

Row 2

sk2, 1dc x 59

Row 3

*1fpdc, 2 x dc. Repeat from * until the end of the row.

Row 4

ch2, *fpdc x 2, 1dc. Repeat from * until the end of the row.

Row 5

1fpdc, 2 x dc. Repeat from * until the end of the row

Row 6 – 7

Repeat row 4 and 5

cc to light blue

Row 8 – 13

Repeat rows 4 and 5 three times

cc to yellow

Row 14 – 19

Repeat rows 4 and 5 three times

cc to dark blue

Row 20 – 25

Repeat rows 4 and 5 three times

cc to light blue

Row 26 – 31

Repeat rows 4 and 5 three times

cc to yellow

Row 32 – 37

Repeat rows 4 and 5 three times

cc to dark blue

Row 38 – 43

Repeat rows 4 and 5 three times

The Border

Begin your border in the yellow yarn.

Round 1 – 4

ch2 as the first dc, then work all the way around the square of crocheted fabric making 1dc into each stitch and 3dc into each of the four corners. slst into the top of the chain at the end of each round.

cc to dark blue

Round 5 – 6

ch2, then make 1dc into every stitch. slst into the top of the chain at the end of each round.

The Back Panel

Begin your back panel in the dark blue yarn

Row 1

ch62

Row 2

sk2, then make 1dc x 60

Row 3

ch2, then make 1dc into each stitch

Row 4 – 12

ch2, then make 1dc into each stitch

cc to yellow

Row 13 – 23

ch2, then make 1dc into each stitch

cc to light blue

Row 24 – 34

ch2, then make 1dc into each stitch

Sewing the Sides Together

I hand sewed my cushion cover together around the pad, using a long tail of the yellow yarn. Line up the sides and weave in and out the front side only of each of the stitches around the perimeter of the cushion cover.

Please do be aware that because waffle stitches impact the stitch height, the stitches will not line up perfectly, and you’ll have to adjust the pieces to line them up. Don’t worry, it will still look neat!

The post Waffle Stitch Crochet Tutorial & Free Pillow Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Turning Yarn Scraps Into Crochet Throw Pillows

Sarah Holloway — Wed, 07 Feb 2024 11:43:38 +0000

Like any ardent crochet lover, I have a leftover yarn problem. As well as balls and balls of leftover wool from past projects, I also have stashes of finished granny squares squirreled away.

I got as far as turning odd ends of yarn into small squares, but ran out of momentum before turning the squares into something more. Recently I decided to do something about that, and recycled a large quantity of yarn scraps and some loose granny squares into two gorgeous throw pillow covers. I didn’t use a pattern, and let them take shape as I went. Here are my notes on that process, and tips I’ve learned for successfully turning yarn scraps into crochet throw pillows.

Pillow 1: Waffle stitch and mini solid squares
Pillow 2: Mini circle squares
Tips for using up yarn scraps to make pillows

To my mind, turning yarn scraps into granny square pillow cases is one of the best ways to use them up.

They’re just the right size project – not too big, and not too small.
The size is easily adapted to use up the quantity of yarn you have. Just keep adding squares or a border until you run out of yarn.
Making granny squares only uses small amounts of yarn at a time. So you never get to the end of a big section and realize you don’t have enough yarn to finish it.
The techniques and stitches involved are very beginner friendly.

(You might also like to use them to make your own scrappy yarn toy!)

Waffle stitch and mini solid square throw pillow

This pillow cover started with the pink and green example of a waffle stitch granny square I made for this article. The yarn scraps all came from the same blanket I finished last year, and I loved seeing the colors together again. So it seemed the obvious thing to do was use up more of the leftover yarn and make a waffle stitch granny square pillow! Here I am making up more squares. As you can tell by the artificial light and bedroom carpet backdrop, this surprisingly urgent idea occurred to me quite late at night…

Once I had 9 waffle stitch granny squares, I joined them with mattress stitch,. Then added a border of light blue double crochet, and blocked the whole panel to admire my progress so far.

By this point, the compulsion to make waffle stitch squares was less intense. So I decided to make the back of the pillow using dinky 3-round solid granny squares instead. Since I was getting low on some colors, I thought I would be less likely to run out of one at an inconvenient time doing it this way.

Making the back panel

Here’s my pile of mini granny squares. Laid out, they fill roughly the same area as my 9 waffle squares. My plan is to join them, and add another light blue border to make the back panels the right size to join to the front panel. The border will also help make the seams really discreet later.

And here they are joined together. I’m going to make my pillow cover with an envelope closure, which is why they’re joined in two sections. And as luck would have it, a single row of double crochet around the outside edge is going to make them about the same dimensions as the front panel. I wish I could say I knew it was going to turn out that way all along. But it was more luck than wisdom!

First I added the border to 3 edges of the smaller section. The fourth edge will be covered by the other section when the pillow cover is constructed. So I left it as-is. Then I joined this section to the front of the pillow case using mattress stitch.

I wasn’t sure if they would have exactly the same number of stitches along the corresponding edges, so I placed one panel on top of the other and secured them with stitch markers at regular intervals. I figured this would help me to pick up any extra stitches on one panel at even intervals, instead of all at one corner. Of course the alternative would have been to count the stitches before I started sewing!

Adding the second back panel

Next I added three rows of double crochet to one long edge of the other back panel. This is so that it overlaps the first panel to form an envelope closure. I’m also going to add some buttons to hold the case closed, and the gaps between the stitches will double up as button holes.

Then I joined this section to the front panel too. A little tip I like to use at the corners when making granny square throw pillows is to grab both corner chain stitches in one mattress stitch, like this.

It helps keep the corner tightly closed when you add the filling.

Finally I added some buttons from a cardigan my mother in law made for my daughter when she was a baby. Then I found a throw pillow the right size on our sofa, and put the pad inside this case instead. I’m a big fan of switching the cases on our throw pillows around to keep our space feeling interesting. Obviously I’ll keep the case I took off to use again in future though! And here’s the finish result:

I’m really pleased with how this turned out. Now let’s take a look at that stash of mini squares that never realized their full potential… until now.

Mini circle granny squares throw pillow

Do you have a work in progress which has been in progress for so long you can’t quite remember where you were going with it? Clearly I made these dinky circle granny squares to use up short ends of the navy, burgundy, raspberry, yellow and green yarns. But then they got stashed in a drawer and forgotten for – I think – about 7 years. So I decided to make some of these into a small pillow too.

I didn’t have any matching white yarn left, so I tried joining them using cotton sewing thread instead. Now I can report that it works, but:

It slides around more, making it trickier to get the tension just right.
The seams are much less stretchy than if they’d been joined with a wool yarn.
The difference in texture does catch the eye if you know to look for it. I’m pretty confident no one will notice if I don’t point it out though!

I joined 9 squares in a 3 x 3 pattern using mattress stitch, and compared it to a naked pillow that’s been abandoned at the back of our closet ever since our puppy chewed up its original case 4 years ago.

It came up a bit small, so I raided my yarn stash for some more colors in a similar (I think) fiber, and added two rows of double crochet as a border.

Much better.

Assembling the cushion

This time instead of making another granny square panel for the other side of the pillow, I decided to make a simple envelope pillow cover with a white front and a plaid back. My fabric stash nearly rivals my yarn stash! I’m no expert on sewing, and if you want to learn more about making envelope pillow covers well, I suggest you take advice from Jann instead:

Then I joined the granny square panel to the white side using whipstitch around the edge.

And here’s the result:

I’m still thinking about adding some buttons to the center of the circles as well. Let me know if you think it’s a good idea in the comments down below. I think this pillow turned out pretty cute, and I LOVE that both the granny squares and the unloved pillow are finally looking good on my sofa, instead of cluttering up closet and drawer space.

Tips for turning yarn scraps into crochet throw pillows

Here are my top takeaways from these projects:

1. Electronic scales are your best friend!

If you have electronic kitchen scales, use them to weigh your granny squares before and after adding each color. As you start to run out of yarn in one color, weighing what’s left will give you an idea of whether there’s enough use for the next section of work. Which can save you from some nerve wracking games of yarn chicken, and even worse – a lot of unraveling!

2. Try and match yarns by fiber content

Yarns behave differently in the wash according to their fiber content. Sticking to scraps with the same fiber content reduces the likelihood of your pillow cover getting distorted in the laundry. This can be easier said than done though if, like me, you’re not much good at keeping hold of yarn wrappers!

3. Let your project evolve

I really went into these two projects with only half a plan in my head. The first project was originally going to have waffle squares on both sides, and a zip. But I love seeing those buttons reliving the memories associated with them. The second pillow wasn’t supposed to have a yellow border, but I think it would look a bit blah without it now.

Turning yarn scraps into crochet throw pillows – summary

These were fun projects to make a bit of a dent in my yarn stash. They were fast and satisfying to work on in between bigger projects, and it was very freeing to make something up as I went along rather than sweat over sticking to a pattern. You have nothing to lose by trying it too, so have a go and let us know how you get on in the comments!

The post Turning Yarn Scraps Into Crochet Throw Pillows appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.

Free Circular Crochet Throw Pillow Pattern

Lucy Kate — Wed, 17 Jan 2024 17:12:15 +0000

This circular crochet throw pillow pattern has a repeating round pattern. I’ve made mine up in shades of yellow, white and jute colored aran weight cotton yarns, but you can get totally creative when you replicate it!

Your equipment list.
Pattern notes.
The round crochet pillow pattern.

This beginner friendly crochet cushion pattern is easy to follow, and produces something you’ll be really proud of.

Your Crochet Cushion Kit List

3.5oz Rico Creative Cotton aran weight yellow (saffron) yarn.
3.5oz Lily Sugar ‘n Cream aran weight jute yarn.
3oz Lily Sugar ‘n Cream aran weight white yarn.
4mm crochet hook
Bag of toy safe stuffing or cushion pad
Tapestry needle
Scissors/yarn cutter

These are the yarns I used, but this pattern will work just fine with any other yarn, including yarn scraps!

If you choose to use a round cushion pad, pick one that’s around 16 inches in diameter, as this should be about the finished size of your crochet throw pillow.

Pattern Notes

We’ll begin with a magic circle, then you’ll use double crochet (US) stitches, and chains. You will form the shape of your throw pillow by increasing and then decreasing the rounds.

All of the color changes take place at the start of a round, so you’ll find those jogs are easily disguised within the pattern of the crocheted circular crochet throw pillow.

Abbreviations:

ch – chain
dc – double crochet
cc – color change
2dc – increase by putting two double crochets into the same stitch
dc2tog – decrease by putting double crochet two stitches together
slst – slip stitch

Your Circular Crochet Throw Pillow Pattern

Begin using your 4mm crochet hook and your yellow yarn.

Round 1

Make a magic circle of eight stitches (8)

Round 2

Chain 3 (to make the first double crochet), then put 1 double crochet into the 1st stitch (at the base of the chain), 2dc x 7, then slip stitch into the top of the initial chain to join.

Ch3, 1dc in same stitch, 2dc x 7, slst. (16)

Round 3

Ch3, 2dc, (1dc, 2dc) x 7 (24)

Round 4

Ch3, 1dc, 2dc, (1dc x 2, 2dc) x 7 (32)

cc to white

Round 5

Ch3, 1dc x 2, 2dc, (1dc x 3, 2dc) x 7 (40)

cc to jute

Round 6

Ch3, 1dc x 3, 2dc, (1dc x 4, 2dc) x 7 (48)

Round 7

Ch3, 1dc x 4, 2dc, (1dc x 5, 2dc) x 7 (56)

Round 8

Ch3, 1dc x 5, 2dc, (1dc x 6, 2dc) x 7 (64)

Round 9

Ch3, 1dc x 6, 2dc, (1dc x 7, 2dc) x 7 (72)

cc white

Round 10

Ch3, 1dc x 7, 2dc, (1dc x 8, 2dc) x 7 (80)

Round 11

Ch3, 1dc x 8, 2dc, (1dc x 9, 2dc) x 7 (88)

cc yellow

Round 12

Ch3, 1dc x 9, 2dc, (1dc x 10, 2dc) x 7 (96)

Round 13

Ch3, 1dc x 10, 2dc, (1dc x 11, 2dc) x 7 (104)

Round 14

Ch3, 1dc x 11, 2dc, (1dc x 12, 2dc) x 7 (112)

Round 15

Ch3, 1dc x 12, 2dc, (1dc x 13, 2dc) x 7 (120)

Round 16

Ch3, 1dc x 13, 2dc, (1dc x 14, 2dc) x 7 (128)

cc white

Round 17

Ch3, 1dc x 14, 2dc, (1dc x 15, 2dc) x 7 (136)

cc jute

Round 18

Ch3, 1dc x 15, 2dc, (1dc x 16, 2dc) x 7 (144)

Round 19

Ch3, 1dc x 16, 2dc, (1dc x 17, 2dc) x 7 (152)

Round 20

Ch3, 1dc x 17, 2dc, (1dc x 18, 2dc) x 7 (160)

Round 21

Ch3, 1dc x 18, 2dc, (1dc x 19, 2dc) x 7 (168)

Round 22

Ch3, 1dc x 19, 2dc, (1dc x 20, 2dc) x 7 (176)

cc white

Round 23

Ch3, 1dc x 20, 2dc, (1dc x 21, 2dc) x 7 (184)

cc yellow

Round 24 – 26

1sc x 184 (184)

cc white

Round 27

Ch3, 1dc x 19, dc2tog, (1dc x 20, dc2tog) x 7 (176)

cc jute

Round 46

Ch3, dc2tog, (1dc, dc2tog) x 7 (24)

Fill with toy safe stuffing. Tear it into small pieces before you insert them, and spread them gently into the entirety of the circumferences of the circle.

Round 47

Ch3, 1dc in same stitch, 2dc x 7, slst. (16)

Round 48

Ch3, then dc2tog until the circle is too tight to easily work. Now swap to your yarn needle and sew closed.

Finishing Off Your Crochet Cushion

Depending on your tension, you might find a small gap where the chain replaced each double crochet. If this bothers you, take the yarn needle and using the same colored yarn just weave this space smaller. Just don’t overdo it, or it will become more obvious!

Happy Crocheting!

Lucy Kate, x

The post Free Circular Crochet Throw Pillow Pattern appeared first on Lucy Kate Crochet.